The Southern Edge Magazine - Fall 2020

S OUTH C AR OL I N A 7

30 Days, 1 Epic Adventure

WHA T’S

in a

N AM E?

Nine Times Preserve & Forest

ONE NA TI ON C OF F EE A Tribute to 9/12

Grab A Bag SC Monday, October 19, 2020

Grab A Bag SC returns during a time when community spirit is needed most.

Join us, Clemson University’s Solid Green and Lt. Governor Evette as we kick off this litter pickup event. Grab a bag, rally your friends and family, put on your safety gear and head outside for a chance to enjoy the South Carolina outdoors while making a difference. Show pride by doing something good for yourself and your community.

2700 Middleburg Drive, Suite 216 | Columbia 29204 | www.palmettopride.org

Philosophy We believe the idea of tradition is ingrained in the souls of Southerners. We have a relentless respect for our deep heritage and an unwavering dedication to living out the traditions of the past.

We believe tradition can be honored while simultaneously welcoming contemporary thought and style and that there is a movement to merge these two lifestyles through intentional, healthy and meaningful living.

We believe happiness is rooted in simplicity. If our minds and places are free of clutter, there is more room for things that matter.

We believe local is better. It’s about being a part of a larger community. It’s about connecting with

those who grow, catch, brew and create our food and that closer means fresher, tastier and healthier.

It’s choosing fruits and vegetables in season, drinking wines from vineyards in the region, seeking out the work of local artisans and supporting independent, locally owned stores.

We believe in leaving a positive fingerprint. The measure of our success will be the condition on which we leave the world for the next generation.

We believe these thoughts embody the emergence of the “New South” and we’re honored to be presenting this movement in our pages.

Thank you for joining us on this journey.

CONTENTS 8-15: SOUTH CAROLINA 7 Exploring South Carolina and its unique SEVEN

61-67:TASTES LIKE FREEDOM OneNation Coffee

16-19: SHOFAR SO GOOD The Blowing of an Ancient Horn during the SC7 Expedition

46

22-27: WHAT'S IN A NAME? Nine Times Preserve & Forest

50

46-49: ROOTS TO REVOLUTION The Seeds of Liberty Growing along the Liberty Trail

30-37: PICKENS COUNTY An Ideal Country for Dreamers

8

38-43: WHERE THE RIVER SINGS

38

50-52: STARGAZER Finding Your Way by Knowing your Stars 58-60: THANKSGIVING WINE PAIRINGS

58

70-73: RIVERSTEAD A Resilient Living Community

61

76-79: SOUTHERN FIELD TRIPS Travelers Rest

70 76

LEFT: HIGH CAMP ON MT. ACONCAGUA (THE HIGHEST SUMMIT IN THE WESTERN & SOUTHERN HEMISPHERES). ABOVE: MT. ACONCAGUA ABOVE THE CLOUDS AT 21,000 FEET.

LETTER FROM

EDITOR

the

Tom Mullikin

WELCOME FROM CAMDEN, the oldest inland city in South

Carolina, my home and my proverbial base of operations where much of my work around the world begins and always ends. I love the South, and I love our Palmetto State, which brings me to this Fall 2020 edition of THE SOUTHERN EDGE. I have been graciously invited to serve as guest editor for THE SOUTHERN EDGE by Editor-in-Chief Michelle McCollum and her staff. Of course, writing and editing are not entirely new enterprises for me: As an attorney, a university professor, and a global expedition leader, my work has been published in numerous professional journals and general consumer publications, and I have written a few books and film scripts. But editing an entire magazine is, well, something of a new venture to be sure.

I must say it’s been fun. And I think you’ll recognize that fun and energy throughout the pages of this issue.

First, you’ll see a feature on our recent SOUTH CAROLINA SEVEN expedition, which largely chronicles the recent July adventures my team and I experienced while hiking, diving, kayaking, and again-hiking for 30 days covering approximately 500 miles from the mountains to the sea. I won’t expound on our firstof-its-kind journey here – as we also explored the seven natural wonders of South Carolina – but I will cover our trek in greater detail in our SC7 feature.

We also have several conservation-focused features including a wonderful piece by our aforementioned Michelle McCollum who describes our state’s own Pickens County as “a country of the soaring spirit.” Then acclaimed writer Tom Poland talks about Ware Shoals, “where the river sings,” and Phil Gaines, the retired director of S.C. State Parks, shares with us Big Rock Mountain and the Nine Times Nature Preserve.

There is so much more, including a piece on the Liberty Tree by Jennifer Howard. Then we have Navigating by the Stars by New York Times bestselling editor W. Thomas Smith, Jr. who also shares a bit about the world’s oldest wind instrument, the shofar. Michelle then talks about a great new coffee company, “bringing the nation together one cup at a time. And we have unique perspective-pieces from a “Southern Lady” and a “Southern Gentleman.”

I couldn’t be more pleased by the work, the energy, and the passion in the purest sense that went into this edition; reflecting all that’s good and to-be-celebrated about our state.

I think you’ll agree. Join me now as we explore (indeed one of my favorite words) the pages here of THE SOUTHERN EDGE where we define what it means to be a South Carolinian.

Tom

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

3

GET THE SOUTHERN EDGE MAGAZINE DELIVERED RIGHT TO YOUR DOOR! thesouthernedgemagazine.com

Michelle McCollum CEO & Editor in Chief Anna Joyner Artistic Director & Production Manager Yuka Greer Managing Editor & Operations Director Abbey Stevens Editorial Assistant Cover Photo by Mac Stone Photography / Nine Times Preserve & Forest

SOUTH CAROLINA NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR BOARD OF DIRECTORS Don Alexander

Bob Alexander

Bobbi Kennedy

Ken Durham

Donna Livingston

Rhoda Green

Neal Workman

Pete Weathers

SOUTH CAROLINA NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR Publisher Profits from The Southern Edge will go back into the preservation, conservation, and environmental educational programs of the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor.

National Heritage Areas are designated by Congress as places where natural, cultural, and historic resources combine to tell nationally significant stories.

SOUTH CAROLINA NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR

CONTRIBUTORS

TOM MULLIKIN GUEST EDITOR/WRITER

Maj. Gen. Tom Mullikin is a former U.S. Army officer and a retired commanding general of the S.C. State Guard. An attorney, university professor, and global expedition leader, Tom has led expeditions around the world, climbing mountain ranges on every continent, achieving the summits of four of the world’s seven great summits, and logging SCUBA dives in all the world’s oceans. Tom is the founding chairman of the gubernatorially established S.C. Floodwater Commission, and he is a 2019 inductee into the S.C. Black Belt Hall of Fame. Among his awards, honors, and military decorations, he is a recipient of the Order of the Palmetto.

We are always willing to consider freelance writers & contributors.

Please send queries to info@thesouthernedgemagazine.com

TOM POLANDWRITER

PHIL GAINES WRITER

MAC STONE - PHOTOGRAPHER

RHONDA GAFFNEY BLOGGER

Tom Poland grew up in Lincoln Phil Gaines is a Professor of County, Georgia, and graduated Practice in the Parks Recreation from the University of Georgia and Tourism Management with degrees in Journalism and Department at Clemson Education. He taught at the University. Phil completed a 37University of Georgia, Columbia year career in State Parks in 2018.

College, and the University He began his career in parks as an of South Carolina. He writes entry level Park Ranger at Kings about nature and the South Mountain State Park and served and its people, traditions, and as Park Superintendent at three lifestyles. His work appears in different state parks. Phil served books & magazines, journals, as Director of South Carolina and newspapers throughout the State Parks for 13 years. Phil also South. He’s a member of the S.C. served on the Board of Directors Humanities Speakers Bureau. for the National Association of Tom is a recipient of the Order of State Park Directors, and the Palmetto. He lives in Columbia, National Association of State South Carolina.

Outdoor Recreation Liaison Officers.

Mac Stone is a National Geographic Explorer, an internationally acclaimed photographer and leads the non-profit Naturaland Trust. An author, TED speaker, and senior fellow with the International League of Conservation Photographers and Sea Legacy, he uses poignant imagery to drive conservation initiatives.

His work can be found at macstonephoto.com and naturalandtrust.org

Rhonda Gaffney grew up in Belton, S.C., but has lived in Spartanburg for 25 years, and has been a stay-at-home mom for the majority of those years.

Now that her children are both grown, she and her husband Jeff love exploring to find great food and drinks across the South.

They started posting about their Southern Field Trips on Facebook and friends quickly began looking forward to those posts each week.

Those posts led to The Southern Field Trip segments on The Southern Edge blog.

JOSHUA WALKER WRITER

W. THOMAS SMITH, JR. WRITER

Joshua Walker owns one of Charleston’s only retail shop and wine bar combinations, Wine & Company. His passion for wine started after first being hired as a valet at the former Woodland's Inn, a Forbes Five Star, AAA Five Diamond hotel and restaurant in Summerville, S.C. He worked his way into the dining room which was the perfect ground to cultivate a passion for wine—surrounded by guests and colleagues who valued the quality and story behind each label. Now he spends his waking hours at Wine & Co. serving wine, craft beer and small plates with energy and respect. He loves introducing regulars to new or adventurous wines that match their palate.

W. Thomas Smith Jr. is a formerly deployed U.S. Marine Infantry leader, counterterrorism instructor, and retired colonel in the S.C. Military Department. A New York Times bestselling editor and an internationally acclaimed writer whose work has appeared in countless newspapers and magazines worldwide, Tom has traveled to Iraq, the Balkans, elsewhere and other wars. He is also a senior officer with the National Security Task Force, South Carolina Floodwater Commission. Among Tom’s awards, honors, and military decorations, he is a 2019 recipient of the Order of the Palmetto.

JANE JENKINS HERLONG - WRITER

JAMES SAXON WRITER

Jane Jenkins Herlong is a Sirius XM Humorist, bestselling/award-winning author, professional singer, recording artist and professional Southern humorist. A recent inductee into the prestigious Speakers Hall of Fame, Jane is the best-selling author of four books. A former Miss America contestant, Jane’s award-winning singing and comedy is featured on Sirius XM Radio, Spotify and Pandora Internet Radio. For speaking engagements visitjaneherlong.com

James "Jamie" Saxon is a Red Hills and Cotton native of the South Carolina Upcountry, to which he returned after a couple of decades in other places. A graduate of Furman University, the University of South Carolina, and the Cumberland School of Law of Samford University, he has been a college administrator, worked in private practice and public service, and currently is associate probate judge for Anderson County. He loves books, jazz, food, friends, labs, and his crazy Southern family.

F O L L O W U S on S O C I A L M E D I A the_southern_edge

The Southern Edge Magazine thesouthernedgemagazine.com

THE HEART OF SOUTH CAROLINA IS FOUND IN OUR FIELDS.

South Carolina

AGRITOURISM

PASSPORT Pick up your passport to SC Farm Fun at participating farms across the state and start collecting stamps today to win Certified SC prizes!

View the list of participating farms at scagritourism.org.

Find your next farm experience

SCFarmFun.org

7

EXPLORING SOUTH CAROLINA and its unique S E V E N Words by Tom Mullikin

te Sta o t met Pal res. e h Tt ntu THA adve s r y e tor cov dis plora r e x te ead n l eates o i t r edi sg exp of hi l a e lob is on Ag

M a j . G e n . To m M u l l i k i n i s a f o r m e r U . S . A r m y o f f i c e r a n d a r e t i r e d commanding general of the S.C. State Guard. An attorney, university p r o f e s s o r, a n d g l o b a l e x p e d i t i o n l e a d e r, M u l l i k i n h a s l e d e x p e d i t i o n s around the world, climbing mountain ranges on every continent, achieving the summits of four of the world’s seven great summits, and logging SCUBA dives in all the world’s oceans.

every bit as unique and unmatched as they are for any mountains – comparatively speaking within our elevations or higher – anywhere in the world. And in simplest terms, they are among my favorites.

I

t was Everest base camp now nearly two years ago that a somewhat directional thought occurred to me: The thought being that though I had been blessed with lifelong opportunities to climb numerous mountain ranges stretching across every continent on Earth – and having already reached the pinnacles of four of the world’s seven great summits – climbing and mountaineering in my home state of South Carolina was and is far too-often unsung.

For instance, few outdoor enthusiasts think of us as a climbing state destination. But like our opportunities for diving, paddling, hiking and otherwise journeying across the Palmetto State, our sport climbing and mountain wilderness experiences right here are

That was pretty much the conception and subsequent conversation with others for what would become our month-long adventure across South Carolina in July of this year with the objectives of traversing much of the Palmetto State (closely following the roughly 500-mile Palmetto Trail from the mountains winding down to-and-through the Midlands and all the way to the sea), exploring what I had initially conceived a few years prior to Everest base camp as being the seven geographic wonders of South Carolina (which we’ll get to momentarily), showcasing the state’s unique natural beauty and all the while raising greater awareness of environmental threats resulting from disastrous storms and flooding to the most vulnerable areas of the state.

It was determined that the Expedition would be billed as the South Carolina Seven or simply SC7. It would be the first-ever expedition of its kind across South Carolina, and it would be as “epic” as has been reported as any of my other treks around the world over the previous four decades. It proved to be all of those things and more.

We began in the Upstate, specifically Oconee County, July 1, and concluded at the South Carolina Aquarium, in Charleston, July 30.

So why South Carolina, and what did we designate as our state’s seven geographic wonders?

First, South Carolina is a relatively small state – no larger than 31,113 square miles, about 270-plus miles across from east to west and between 210 and 220 miles from north to south – where a traveler can enjoy one of our dawn-bursting coastal sunrises, have breakfast, hop in the car, and be in the mountains by midday. It’s also my home, where my wife Virginia Ann and I grew up, where we raised our children, and now where our grandchildren were born. So we dearly love and are deeply rooted in South Carolina.

Second, we have what I refer to as our newly designated seven wonders of South Carolina. They include (1) the Chattooga River; (2) the Jocassee Gorges; (3) Sassafras Mountain; (4) the Congaree National Forest; (5) the Edisto River; (6) the Ashepoo, Combahee, and Edisto Basin – universally referred to as the ACE Basin; and (7) Bull Island-Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge: Each one a unique geographical treasure.

And we can never stop talking about and celebrating our coastal and Lowcountry destinations like the ACE Basin and Bull Island within the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge.

Speaking of which, did you know there are more loggerhead turtles nesting (some 2,000 nests in fact) along the coast of South Carolina – specifically the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge near the town of Awendaw – than anywhere else on the east coasts of both the U.S. and Canada. That alone is an extraordinary claim to fame.

The 500-plus miles of the SC7 Expedition were accomplished on foot primarily; but also by rafting on the famed Chattooga River, kayaking the Edisto which is longest free-flowing blackwater river in the U.S., SCUBA diving in the Cooper River, even on horseback where we rode through a portion of the Francis Marion National Forest on the Jericho Horse Trail.

Take for instance our mountains here in South Carolina: Granted, they are not quite as elevationally imposing as those of the bordering states of Georgia and North Carolina. But our mountains, foothills, cliffs, falls, and gorges – all part of the great Appalachian chain – are beautiful beyond compare, relatively untraveled, and frankly some of the oldest in the world. The U.S. Geological Survey estimates the Appalachian chain formed at some point between 440 and 480 million years ago (whereas The Rockies out west are only about 55 to 80 million years ago). Best of all, South Carolina offers more mountaineering opportunities than most climbers realize and truly some of the best mountaintop vistas and beautiful waterfalls in the world.

Then there are our extraordinary rivers, tributaries, lakes, and coastal estuaries: Nothing else like them in the world.

he t G N I UC D RO T IN N

E V SE

1

CHATTOOGA RIVER

Our Congaree National Forest is the oldest expanse of bottomland hardwood forest in North America. Frankly a visit there is like stepping back into a deep, primal, near-mystical world of 1,000 years ago.

ACE BASIN

CAPE ROMAIN NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

6

BULL ISLAND

4 EDISTO RIVER

CONGAREE NATIONAL FOREST

JOCASSEE GORGES

SASSAFRAS MOUNTAIN

2 3 5

7

Along the way, state and nationally acclaimed field experts joined our expedition team, describing, not only where we were, but what we were experiencing on any given day or evening. Accompanying us for multi-mile portions of our journey – always in 90-plus degree heat with heat indexes often above 100 degrees – were several state representatives and senators like Sen. Thomas Alexander, ESPN2 angling expert and Yamaha Rightwaters pro Davy Hite; members of the U.S. Army Special Forces, Army Ranger, Marine Infantry communities; and many others. South Carolina’s Lieutenant Governor Pamela Evette was with us for most of the trip.

Our partners were many and key, several of which provided expert naturalists and historians along the route who led discussions during our daily “fireside chats” ranging from conservation, resiliency, adult and childhood fitness, outdoor therapy, floodwatermitigation issues, and so much more. Among those partners were the S.C. Department of Natural Resources; the S.C. Dept. of Parks, Recreation, and Tourism; the Association of the U.S. Army’s Palmetto State Chapter; the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor; Yamaha Rightwaters; the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, the Edgar Dyer Institute for Leadership and Public Policy at Coastal Carolina University, and many others. Members of the gubernatorially established S.C. Floodwater Commission (which I serve as founding chairman) also partnered and participated.

To say our SC7 Expedition was “epic,” as we’ve mentioned, is an understatement. Several participants and interested others have since gathered at my home in Camden where we are currently planning next summer’s equally epic adventure. Join us.

For more information, please visit southcarolina7.com.

SOUTH CAROLINA 2020

Our work in environmental education led us to the doorstep of South Carolina’s most famous e n v i r o n m e n t a l i s t , To m M u l l i k i n . To m h a s m a n y t i t l e s : E x p l o r e r, r e s e a r c h e r, p r o f e s s o r, w r i t e r, p r o d u c e r, a d v i s o r, a n d s o l d i e r, t o n a m e a f e w . H i s k n o w l e d g e a n d e n e r g y w e r e t h e p e r f e c t r e c i p e t o p u l l t o g e t h e r the SC7 Expedition, which brought over 50 national, state and local partners to the table to discuss c o n s e r v a t i o n i s s u e s i n o u r g r e a t s t a t e . T h r o u g h o u t t h e 5 0 0 - m i l e t r e k a l o n g t h e P a l m e t t o Tr a i l w e h a d amazing conversations about important issues that sparked work which will continue for years to come. We are already planning SC7 2021 and it will be even more epic than our inaugural expedition. We are proud to be a major sponsor of SC7 and we look forward to what next year holds.

-Michelle McCollum, President & CEO of the South Carolina National Heritage Corridor

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

13

“ To m M u l l i k i n i s o n e o f S o u t h C a r o l i n a ’ s u n i q u e l y talented citizens who serves as a great ambassador of our state. That he is both qualified and willing to take on such an expedition to highlight our state’s natural beauty and wonder is something that brings g r e a t p r i d e t o t h e P a l m e t t o S t a t e .”

– G o v. H e n r y D . M c M a s t e r

“A proven world-class expedition leader and South C a r o l i n a e n t h u s i a s t , To m M u l l i k i n w i l l b e s h o w c a s i n g the South Carolina Seven, the seven wonders of our Palmetto State, which is something that has n e v e r b e e n d o n e b ef o r e h e r e .”

– L t . G o v. P a m e l a S . E v e t t e

14

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

15

so good THE BLOWING OF AN ANCIENT HORN DURING THE SC7 EXPEDITION Words by W. Thomas Smith, Jr.

M

idway during the South Carolina Seven Expedition (SC7), participants gathered for lunch and one of SC7’s daily “fireside chats” at Heise’s Pond on Fort Jackson, the largest U.S. Army basic training facility in the nation. There several of us, including S.C. Floodwater Commission Chair Tom Mullikin, ESPN2 bass-fishing expert and Yamaha Rightwaters pro Davy Hite, Richland County Sheriff Leon Lott, and S.C. Lieutenant Governor Pamela Evette, broke bread and discussed military relevant topics: Everything from our state’s rich military history to the struggles facing our military veterans returning from multiple overseas deployments.

Facilitating the lunch was Michelle McCollum, editor-in-chief of THE SOUTHERN EDGE, who invited, frankly urged me to blow a few blasts from the shofar prior to our breaking bread.

Why? We’ll get to that momentarily.

First, what is a shofar? Referred to simply as a horn and sometimes a trumpet in the various English translations of the Bible, the shofar is perhaps the oldest wind-instrument in the world.

A shofar is made from an animal horn, which is why we call a horn a horn. The shofar is usually made from a ram’s horn; sometimes a kudu antelope’s horn (which is the type of shofar I had at Heise’s Pond). Of course, not all horned animals are considered kosher in Jewish tradition, so the ram and kudu horns are by far the most prevalent shofars; though some shofars are fashioned from a gemsbok antelope.

We read about shofars in the Old and New Testaments whenever we read about “horns” and sometimes when we read about “trumpets.” Whenever we read of horns and trumpets together, the horn is always a shofar. But sometimes trumpets are horns (shofars), and sometimes trumpets are trumpets. And only those with a background in Hebrew (which I don’t) and perhaps a decent historical perspective (which I do) will know the difference when reading Scripture in any of the English language translations we have.

MILITARY APPLICATION For the ancient Hebrews, the blast of a shofar was used to announce the new moon or the beginning of festivals. Shofar blasts were also used as signals or alarms, or for military assembly. The watchmen or guards standing posts atop ancient city walls blew shofars. Attacking armies blew shofars. Priests blew shofars. The shofar blast is said to confuse the enemy and drive the enemy away.

Most of us know about the shofar’s unique uses by Gideon’s men against the Midianites (in the Old Testament book of Judges) wherein they confused and drove away the Midianites. Then there was the employment of the shofar by priests accompanying Joshua’s forces before the ill-fated walls of Jericho. Angels are even said to blow shofars. Some sources say, the devil himself hates the sound of the shofar (Makes sense. After all, the shofar is, again, said to drive away the enemy.). Shofars in the ancient world were blown to announce the coronation of kings, and shofars are said to be a call to repentance. The shofar is also said to be the “voice of God.” Today our Jewish brethren blow the shofar during their High Holidays, primarily Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. We Christians rarely blow the shofar; though some do especially those within the Messianic Jewish tradition. BY THE WAY, did you know shofars were forbidden in Nazi death camps like Auschwitz?

Some shofars, however, were smuggled into the camps, and at least one such shofar survived the war. That shofar exists today in a Holocaust museum collection.

The sound of the shofar is unique albeit similar to a modern trumpet. It is considered more difficult to play though because no two shofars are alike. No shofar is symmetrically exact. And only a limited number of notes may be blown from the shofar, though those notes may be manipulated by the musician to sound like a different note. thesouthernedgemagazine.com

17

SHOFAR, SO GOOD! How did this shofar blowing come about for me? I really don’t know, except to say that well over a year-or-so ago, it came to me that I needed to learn to play the shofar. Why? Again not sure.

I looked online for a shofar. What I discovered was that shofars could only be purchased overseas, primarily Israel. I didn’t want to buy one sight unseen. So I temporarily put my desire for one on hold.

Then last Christmas, I noticed for the first time that in the movie Ben-Hur (the multiple Academy Award-winning 1959 version with Charlton Heston), a shepherd is depicted blowing the shofar in the very beginning of the film following the visit of the magi.

I’ve seen Ben-Hur countless times, but that was the first time I had noticed the scene of the shepherd and the shofar.

Fast forward to Feb. 9, 2020, as several of us gathered for Sunday School. I asked my friend Dawn Faber who I knew worked at Columbia International University (CIU) if she knew someone at CIU who had a shofar. She said she’d ask. Within days, Dawn introduced me to Dr. Bryan Beyer, the dean of CIU’s College of Arts and Sciences. Dr. Beyer had two shofars, and he was willing to part with one he had purchased years ago in a Jerusalem market.

THE SPIRITUALITY OF THE SHOFAR I picked up my shofar on Feb. 12. Daily practice began immediately, and something transformative began to happen as I would pray and blow. I wasn’t very good. I’m still not. But something spiritually exhilarating took place every time I practiced.

I can’t explain it. I just know what the experience felt and feels like.

I decided within a week of my acquisition that I would play the shofar at 40 significant locations across central S.C. over the 40 days of Lent from late Feb. through early Apr. 2020. I’m not entirely sure what I was hoping to accomplish. But the experience was profound and beyond my ability to explain.

Then on July 15 as we gathered at Heise’s Pond. Michelle knew I had my shofar in my car. She had heard me play. So before the hikers reached us to break for lunch, she asked me if I might blow a few blasts before we ate. After all, we were on a military base, about to discuss military related topics, many if not most of the hikers were military veterans – at least one, Col. Bill Connor, still serves – and the shofar has military application as we have already discussed.

“Hearing Tom blow the shofar was extremely meaningful in the context of a gathering of veterans and active duty military at Fort Jackson this past summer. Used historically to call together military assemblies, the shofar was the perfect way to begin our conversation on outdoor therapy for PTSD. It was a beautiful sound I will never forget.”

— Lt. Gov. Pamela S. Evette The primal sound of the shofar is unlike any sound any of us will ever hear. It is beautiful beyond words. And if you are anywhere close to central South Carolina during the Christmas season, listen.

You might just hear me blasting away somewhere.

Home of the Edgefield County Peach Museum 416 Calhoun Street, Johnston SC (803) 275-0010

CALL FOR YOUR FREE VISITORS GUIDE or VIEW ONLINE!

edgefieldcountychamber.net

SHOP VISIT DINE

2ND SATURDAY MARKET OFF MAIN

HistoriC DOWNTOWN EDGEFIELD

OCT. 10TH / NOV. 14TH / DEC. 12TH 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Edgefield Town Hall (803) 637-4014

506 Main Street, Edgefield

exploreedgefield.com

@exploreedgefield

WELCOMING ALL VISITORS TO ENJOY ART, CULTURE AND EDUCATION! The MACK Artisans Guild and Gallery shop is also located in the historic Hotel Keturah.

McCormick Arts Council at the Keturah (MACK) PO Box 488 / 115 S Main Street McCormick, SC 29835 (864) 852-3216 / mccormickarts@gmail.com

mccormickarts.org

we believe art changes lives!

ac M

g to

ho eP

on St

y ph ra

WHAT'S IN A

NAME? NINE TIMES PRESERVE & FOREST Words by Phil Gaines Photos by Mac Stone & Phil Gaines

T

here is no better way to spend a fall day than with a trip to the South Carolina mountains. The drive on the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Byway (S.C. 11) never disappoints regardless of the season but fall has a certain magic to it. The changing of the leaves appears to pour down the mountain tops into the valleys below. Your attention is instantly drawn to the Blue Ridge Escarpment and familiar mountains like Table Rock, Pinnacle and Sassafras. These are dramatic landmarks in a state where only two percent of the geography is mountains. It is here where you will notice the valley that is nestled between the attentiongrabbing escarpment and the understated mountains of the Nine Times Preserve and Forest. That is our destination, a place called Nine Times, a slight left off S.C. Highway 11 towards Little Eastatoe Creek and a trip back in time.

The Nine Times Preserve and Forest are a model for conservation and land protection.

The treasure we now know as the Nine Times Preserve and Forest is over 2,200 acres managed and protected by Naturaland Trust (1,648 acres) and The Nature Conservancy (560 acres). The conservation of the property came about from partnerships and the assistance from Federal, State, and private partners focused on one thing, protecting a distinctive part of the upstate of South Carolina that could be enjoyed by this and future generations. The features of the property speak for themselves.

24

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

MORE THAN 134 SPECIES OF NATIVE WILDFLOWERS FIVE MOUNTAINS SEVEN DISTINCT FOREST TYPES DIVERSE WILDLIFE, FROM FRESHWATER TROUT TO BLACK BEARS RECREATIONAL ROCK CLIMBING AND BOULDERING

The property complements protected lands nearby including Poe Creek State Forest, the Jocassee Gorges, and Table Rock and Keowee State Parks. All connected by the roads we travel, in particular the Cherokee Foothills National Scenic Byway. Much like the roads of today that connect us, so did the roads of our ancestors. The roads and trails in the Nine Times Preserve and Forest tell this story in a most interesting way. Now, back to that turn off S.C. 11 near Little Eastatoe Creek, and a trip back in time.

Thousands of years ago, before the arrival of the Cherokee, animals - rare for this area today - roamed abundantly in this very forest.

Wood bison, elk and bears carved out paths along the rivers and creeks to move from one valley to the next. Indigenous people of the Mississippian area utilized these same animal routes for their travel and trade routes as did the Cherokee who inhabited this area long before European explorers and settlers arrived. All the communities who would call this special place home found the picturesque valley filled with bottomland suitable for crops such as corn, beans, squash, and pumpkins. Wildlife such as bison, deer, and elk provided abundantly for food and clothing and later trade. In time wood bison and elk would vanish as the population grew and the demands on the land changed. The creeks and rivers adjusted their paths as well, but the shadows of the these mountains and

their legacy of the trails and trade routes upon the land did not. The same trails and trade routes used by the valley’s first inhabits still exist today at Nine Times.

The name Nine Times, originates from the walk-through time.

Inhabitants from pre-history through today shared the same trail beside a two mile stretch of a tributary of the Little Eastatoe River. Travelers, regardless of the century, had to cross the creek nine different times to complete the journey. Nine times became “Nine Times.� Now you know. Walking along the creek at each crossing you cannot help but think about the name; simple but filled with wonder and history. From the creek, the valley makes a gradual ascent to the mountains that are often overshadowed by the escarpment that we are so familiar with, the sites of mountain laurel, rhododendron, oak, hickory, and the evergreens of hemlocks.

On the horizon one can see granite peaks and the large granite boulders that define these hills. Where worn ridges and grooves in the rock left by the rains of time provide a powerful reminder of our connections to generations past and future. One of the unique experiences in the Nine Time Forest is a hike to the top of Big Rock Mountain, up the trail and then a climb up the very granite that tells this story.

Pictured below: Phil Gaines and Doug Harper, board member of Naturaland Trust / naturalandtrust.org

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

25

Big Rock Mountain has long been known in the climbing and bouldering community as one of the few places in South Carolina where you can rock climb throughout the year with a relatively easy hike to your climbing destination. I asked two experienced rock climbers, who happened to be friends, to let me tag along and ask a few questions. They agreed and off we went.

They completed their climb and looked refreshed when they reached the ground. I exclaimed, "that was great" - with a broad smile on my face. Shawn threw me a helmet and said, “Your turn.” My smile vanished as fast as it appeared. Up I go. Great instructors and friends helped in more ways than just technique and equipment, encouragement was key. I made it safely back to ground.

The approach to Big Rock is filled with boulder fields and the granite rock that is so familiar in the Carolina mountains. Outcrops of boulders that define the character of the mountain hold names like Cyclops, White Snake, and Pothole. Along the way trees provide a life lesson about persistence and sheer will as they grow between boulders and in places where they should not. We reach our destination and gather at the base of a wall of granite that looks more intimidating than usual as a gray overcast sky seamlessly touches the top of the mountain. I can see the appeal to being on the mountain, but had to ask; to climb up the side of the rock face, is it adrenalin, the thrill, or something else? The two climbers

They were right. What an experience, I was overwhelmed with the assets of the Nine Times Forest. I must know more about this place, and there is no better person to ask than Wes Cooler, a longtime friend, member of the board of Naturaland Trust and noted conservationist of the mountains of South Carolina. Wes grew up on a couple of State Parks, and the Cooler family name is legendary in the history of South Carolina State Parks. Today Wes spends his time as a volunteer at the Nine Times Forest. He has a wealth of knowledge pointing out mountains and local landmarks from our view atop Big Rock, and he explained that one of the major conservation goals of the project is “the importance of

answered simultaneously “it’s something else.” Elliott

headwaters, streams and watersheds.” It’s a passion of his.

Wilkes explains, “it’s a balance and combination of sport and meditation. You become so focused that it’s all you feel and all you see; you are at peace with the mountain.”

Shawn Llewellyn, Wilkes friend and climbing partner agrees, “once your feet leave the ground you turn everything off and focus on the climb. It’s a way to shut down the world and focus on the experience. When you are on the rock it’s a feeling that’s hard to explain, it’s just you and everything is right in the world.” Wilkes explained that trusting the people you climb with certainly makes the experience more enjoyable.

26

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

As we make our way to the top of Big Rock Mountain, we witness stunning views of mountain peaks that could rival that of Sassafras Mountain. Looking out over the valley at the surrounding mountains, the distinct call of a raven interrupts our conversation for a brief minute, as if to remind us we are but visitors to this mountain. It is a reminder that the rhythms of the physical environment that for centuries remained unchanged need our help. To break the call of the raven as it continues to sing to us, I asked my friend, "Why do you do this?" he said, “It’s really not that complicated. I do it because I can, but also because I have to, because I am a child of the parks and of the forest.” Cooler added, “The goal is simple; If we can protect both land that is big enough for bears and water that is clean enough for trout, everything else will fall into place.” Nine Times does just that. What’s in a name?

More than just crossing the creek nine times, it's a model for conservation and a connection to this place we call home.

Meet you outside!

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

27

N AT I V E A M E R I C A N C E L E B R AT I O N

N OV E M B E R

10 a.m. - 4 p.m. hagood mill historic site 138 hagood mill road pickens, SC / (864) 898-2936

Traditional drumming singing dancing native american flute playing storytelling cherokee hymns in the cherokee language traditional crafts & live demonstrations inauguration of "our native roots: an Interpretive trail" and so much more!

hagoodmillhistoricsite.com

EVENT WILL BE HELD RAIN OR SHINE 250 TICKETS AVAILABLE / $15 PER PERSON TEXT GRITS to 85100 to be notified when tickets are released

an ideal country for dreamers Words by Michelle McCollum

“It was a land of smokehouses and sweet-potato patches, of fried pies and dried fruit and of lazy big bumblebees buzzing in the sun–a country of deep dark pools, of the soaring spirit, of little rooms stored with apples...an ideal country for dreamers; a brooding great country that had caught the sight of God.” Those were the words of Ben Robertson describing the Pickens of the early 1900’s. Since then much has changed; but thankfully, much has also stayed the same.

Pickens is a unique place. It simply feels different there. The land speaks to the people and the people respect the place. There is an energy there and this energy is drawn from the land and the deep history that it holds. It’s an energy that has passed from the Native Americans who once roamed the landscape to the fiercely patriotic colonial ancestors, and beyond. This energy planted a seed of independence and true grit that has shaped the county for generations.

Decades ago, progress arrived and called people from the mountains into the towns dotted at her feet. These towns were once epicenters of trade and commerce, evidenced by the rail lines running alongside bustling town centers. For a time, the towns became quiet. But no longer. The energy has reemerged, breathing life back into main streets. Today, innovation and modernization seep from the halls of educational institutions, drawing visionaries who crave progress amid a backdrop of unmatched natural beauty.

It has been said, “There is something in these hills.”

The mountains of Pickens County are sacred. They speak to all adventurous spirits: those who desire to walk in the footsteps of those who came before, who accept the challenge to wander and explore, and who draw upon the power of the great outdoors for strength and inspiration. For those people, the mountains are calling. If you are one of these people and you haven’t been to Pickens County, I suggest you start planning. There is much to explore. thesouthernedgemagazine.com

31

NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAY

Pickens County is the epicenter of this nationally designated scenic byway, also known as Highway 11. It is the longest of South Carolina’s four National Scenic Byways and acquired its name because it runs through the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains which were the ancestral home of the Cherokee. Fall is the perfect time to take a trip along this byway, but make sure not to miss out on the side trips to state and county parks, waterfalls, historic sites, and great eats. Grab a sweater (don’t you love sweater weather?), a pumpkin spice latte, a cup of hot boiled peanuts, and hit the road.

PRO TRAVEL TIP: Bring your camera!

Cherokee Foothills National Scenic Byway

PRO TRAVEL TIP: Check out GoPaddleSC.com (Twelve Mile Creek) for put-in and take-out points, weather, and water level information.

BLUEWAY TRAIL

Kayaking the Twelve Mile River

The Twelve Mile River is a 30-mile tributary of Lake Hartwell running through Pickens County. Containing sections of whitewater rapids and flatwater, the Twelve Mile River is ideal for paddlers of all skill levels. For thrill-seekers, there is a twomile stretch of Class II – III rapids. Beginners will like smooth paddling conditions as the river enters Lake Hartwell. And the views along the river are (let’s not use amazing, we’re more creative than that) enchanting, glorious, and incomparable.

Pickens Doodle Trail

PRO TRAVEL TIP: For extensive trail information, check out SCTrails.net. It has

information on trails within parks, wilderness areas, and historic sites for both hiking & biking.

There are more opportunities for exploring the Blue Ridge Mountains in Pickens County than you can “shake a stick at,� as my grandmother used to say. There are extreme hikes for the pro, and easy hikes for the novice. There are opportunities to rock climb (mentioned in more depth on page 26), and opportunities to camp. There are family-friendly and fido-friendly trails, and trails that lead to breath-taking overlooks and even waterfalls. And, for all you bike enthusiasts out there, Pickens is the new hot spot for biking. The scenic mountains and foothills provide amazing opportunities for road biking, mountain biking and trail biking.

From 100 Acre Wood at Southern Wesleyan University to the Clemson Experimental Forest, and from the Pickens Doodle Trail to Town Creek Bike Park, there is an elevation, level of difficulty, and variety of distance for all ages and skills.

Disney World is not the only place visitors can “park hop.� From the magnificent Table Rock State Park to the picturesque Mile Creek County Park, Pickens County has many parks to enjoy.

Each park has its own unique character, but all share the same level of beauty found across the Blue Ridge Escarpment. At 3,552 feet above sea level, Sassafras Mountain Overlook is the highest point in South Carolina and has a beautiful (and ADA compliant) overlook providing 360-degree mountain views. Long Shoals Roadside Park is a hidden gem located on the Cherokee Foothills Byway about two miles from Keowee Toxaway State Park. Stop off here for a quiet picnic and views of nature along the banks of the Eastatoe Creek.

Long Shoals Roadside Park

Twin Falls

PRO TRAVEL TIP: Keep the Long Shoals Roadside Park on your list of places to

visit in warmer weather. There are slick rocks that can be used as a slide into an awesome swimming hole.

Mile Creek County Park

View of Table Rock Mountain from Caesars Head State Park

Victoria Valley Vineyards

Agriculture is important to the economy of Pickens County, and there is no better time to enjoy some farm fun than in the fall.

And what you’ll find in Pickens just might surprise you. There are two tea plantations in South Carolina and one just happens to be in Pickens County. Take a tour of the Table Rock Tea Company to learn the process of growing, making, and selling real American tea.

Just a hop, skip and jump from the tea company is Victory Valley Vineyards where they offer tours, a gift shop and wine tasting.

Thursday–Sunday lunch is served on the terrace overlooking the vineyards. And speaking of wine tasting, if you’ve never tried muscadine wine, you’re missing a true Southern treat. Head on over to Lazy Bear Winery and get a wine flight. You will not be disappointed. Another treat for the eyes, and the belly, is a trip to Greenbrier Farms where you can see sustainable agriculture in action and pick up some grass-fed beef, pasture-raised pork, and seasonal produce. If you love honey (and who doesn’t, right?)

Bee Well Honey Farm and Market should be on your list. The farm sells bees and bee supplies and their market sells just about anything healthy your heart desires, especially some really good honey. In the summer months, make sure to add Happy Berry Farm to your travels and pick yourself a basket full of summer goodness – blackberries, muscadines, grapes, and figs.

Lazy Bear Winery

PRO Greenbrier Farms TRAVEL TIP: Bee Well Honey Market has an impressive variety of craft beer,

wine and mead that all tastes really good after a long hike or bike ride - a great way to treat yourself after a workout. Also, be sure to look up the websites of each farm market prior to your trip for hours of operation and special event information.

Bee Well Honey & Table Rock Tea Company

No other county in South Carolina can claim ownership of the Blue Ridge Mountains and its deep Appalachian heritage more than Pickens County. From place names to traditions, the heritage of Native Americans and colonial ancestors is still present and honored in this place. The Pickens County Museum of Art and History is a great place to start your history trip through the county. It is housed in the old Pickens County “goal” (jail) and has artifacts and antiquities telling the stories of Pickens County, its preceding territories, and the Upcountry in general. And do not miss Hagood Mill Historic Site. It’s a treat for the entire family with a restored grist mill, historic cabins, and Native American artifacts showcasing The Petroglyph Site, a museum that boasts the most accessible and only protected petroglyphs in the state of South Carolina.

Pickens County Museum of Art & History

PRO TRAVEL TIP: Plan your trip to Hagood Mill on the third Saturday of the month

when the mill produces stone ground grits, corn meal, flour and specialty items available for purchase. Bring lawn chairs or a blanket for seating in front of the courtyard stage which features a wide range of entertainment including fabulous bluegrass music.

Coolers are allowed and food vendors are available for your convenience at each event. Well-behaved pets are welcome, but must be leashed.

Hagood Mill

There is so much to be experienced and explored in Pickens County.

For travel information: co.pickens.sc.us Instagram/Facebook: @explorepickenscountysc

Words & Editorial Photos by Tom Poland

38

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

Carrying Blue Ridge Mountain waters, the Saluda River snakes through the Carolina piedmont to rendezvous with a town overlaying three counties. Yes, three. There the river sings as it pours over, through, and around rocky shoals, reuniting over and over only to part again and again. Here, Earth’s finest white noise begets inner peace as no other sound can. Waters purl, froth, and foam against bedrock, and milk-white filigrees twist, weave, and braid as they speed toward the Atlantic.

“Right here,” you think, “surely water powered a gristmill.”

You’re right. Where is this place of river rocks, turtles as big as dishpans, chalk-white rapids, and great blue herons?

Where? Ware Shoals.

Many a town sprang into life by a river. Ware Shoals did.

Navigating shoals proved tough but it was a good place to put gravity and water to work, and so William Ware ran a gristmill here early in the 19th century. Rutledge Ford they called that place. Patriots and Loyalists fired rifles across the river, and men on each side died. Yes, blood has tinted the river.

On a hot July morning following a night heavy with rain the shoals ran red from silt. A massive turtle sunned on a rock slab, craning its neck as Canada geese paddled by. From Irvin Pitts Memorial Park I could look east and see a trace of Ware Shoals.

The wind picked up and river spray carried a fertile fragrance of rain and earth. As I watched the river run, fragments of a song came to me. No I cannot forget where it is that I come from. I cannot forget the people who love me. Yeah, I can be myself here in this small town.

I grew up two miles outside a small town. Like Ware Shoals it has just three stoplights.

It’s peaceful along the shoals. I feel at home here by the river.

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

39

Brissie attended Presbyterian College before enlisting in the U.S. Army in December 1942. Just eighteen years old. Just twenty, November 1944, he sees heavy action in Italy with the 88th Infantry Division, the Fighting Blue Devils. December 2, 1944, Hell descends on Brissie. A shell explodes shattering his left tibia and shinbone into 30 pieces. The leg will have to be amputated.

“I’m a ballplayer and you’ve got to find a way to save my leg. Even if it kills me.”

It didn’t.

Brissie received the Bronze Star, Purple Heart "with Oak Leaf Cluster", ETO, and American Campaign Medals. Two years and 23 major operations later, Brissie walks onto the diamond wearing a metal leg brace. The Philadelphia A’s sign him December 15, 1946. His comeback begins with Savannah of the Southern League, where he wins 25 games in 1947. The A’s call him up and September 28, 1947 his dream of pitching in the major leagues comes true.

After baseball, Brissie served as the national director of the American Legion Baseball program. Later, he served on the President’s Physical Fitness Council and worked also as a baseball scout. He spoke to veterans of wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. Those wartime injuries dogged him in the sunset of life. He needed crutches and suffered constant pain.

Ware Shoals sits across the Abbeville, Greenwood, and Laurens County lines. Read its history and you’ll come across the names Dial, Riegel, MacEnroe, Kindler, and Maddox. You’ll read about “The Big Friendly.” You’ll come across George Clooney and Leatherheads, a film about a struggling 1925 pro football team. They shot scenes for that movie in Ware Shoals’ Riegel Stadium. Built in 1931, it features massive stone stands. Quarried nearby? I want to say, yes. They added a baseball field when Textile League baseball sizzled. In 1954, the stadium hosted an exhibition game between the Cincinnati Red Legs and The Washington Senators, and legend holds that no one has hit the ball over the centerfield fence.

The stadium’s storied history and early 20th Century looks rendered it a vintage setting for Leatherheads. I stood in the old field house, a cauldron of July heat, and stared at the field from the window a wistful Dodge Connolly (Clooney) stared. They’re right.

I don’t think anyone can hit a ball out of that stadium.

In Leatherheads, a war hero plays for the Duluth Bulldogs. He’s handsome and fast, on and off the field, but fictional. Ware Shoals’ war hero is real. Leland Victor Brissie, born in Ware Shoals in 1924, pitched for the Philadelphia Athletics and Cleveland Indians.

Lou, as he was known, began his baseball career in 1940. At the age of 16 he pitched for Ware Shoals in a textile baseball league.

Brissie died at the VA hospital in Augusta, Georgia, November 25, 2013. He was 89. Ware Shoals hasn’t erected a statue of Brissie.

Someday, perhaps, but James Salter, said, “Life passes into pages, if it passes into anything,” and it does. Brissie’s did. Dr. Fay Sprouse gave me The Corporal Was A Pitcher: The Courage of Lou Brissie by Ira Berkow, a Pulitzer Prize winner. Tom Brokaw wrote the foreword.

Thanks to the 241-page book others will know the courage of Lou Brissie, of whom pitcher Bob Feller said, “Lou Brissie would have been a Hall of Fame pitcher if it hadn’t been for World War II.” Oh, I almost forgot. In Italy, Brissie, with that leg shredded from the knee to the ankle, became the first recipient to receive penicillin. “I’m a ballplayer and you’ve got to find a way to save my leg.” That legendary blue mold helped find the way.

OVER IN WARE SHOALS I first heard of Ware Shoals from Aunt Shirley of Honea Path when she was talking to my mother. “Oh, that woman? She’s gorgeous, utterly ravishing. She lives over in Ware Shoals.” I never knew who “she” was but years later driving through Ware Shoals I thought of her. Like a river, though, I kept rolling. Couldn’t stop.

Was in a rush.

Many years later, January 25, 2020, driving through again I passed an old store with stacked rock supports. I photographed it in harsh winter light. Shadows black as midnight splayed out beneath a powder blue sky. In the background, bare-boned trees reflected winter’s chill light. Leafless, the trees looked homeless. But July and August would be different over in Ware Shoals. I would make two trips to the town of three counties. You could call them fact-finding missions. (I gather facts with my eyes and intuition, trusting my memory to not let me down.) Here, then, are things I saw.

A Tarheel blue water tower lords over Ware Shoals High School.

An illustration of a catfish adorns the tank, as do these words.

“Home of the Catfish Feastival.” Now that’s “feastival” with an extra “a.” And that gray, whiskered catfish? It stares at the high school, home to the Fighting Hornets. Catfish and hornets, an unlikely duo, but small towns work hard to encourage tourism.

Not quite two hours to the east, the folks in Elgin stomp catfish.

Feasting and stomping—American as apple pie. Well, sort of.

Organizers added catfish stew to the Feastival menu in 1992, using the O’Dell family’s secret recipe. Secret somewhat.

What’s no secret is the good food at Martin’s General Store, known also as Martin’s General and Martin’s General Merchandise.

Drive to 12333 Indian Mound Road and pull into the parking lot.

Step out and look at the old faded sign, “Martin Brother’s General Merchandise,” a vintage beauty American Pickers would love. Ease up the steps past green rocking chairs. Pass between two ferns and through the old screen door. You’re stepping into the past. James Wright Daniel and partners built the store before the Civil War. In 1878, James Martin bought the store and for 119 years Martin’s son and grandsons ran it. Two grandsons ran the store until it closed in 1997.

Tom Martin, a member of the family, told me the store has been a grocery, doctor’s office, post office, polling place, a gathering place for the community, Woodmen of the World, Masons, the Grange, and I daresay the KKK. Today it’s reopened as a restaurant and well worth the drive to 12333 Indian Mound Road. Look around. You’re in a museum, a time capsule. An old hand-cranked telephone sits on a wall. Note the old-fashion scales sitting atop a safe highwaymen broke open only to find it empty.

Look around some more. There’s a Blue Willow china plate, once the rage. See that pack of bobby pins, boxes of Argo Gloss Laundry Starch, and Lava Soap? You can’t miss the big Dr. Pepper thermometer and a sign, “Some of Miss Jane’s Sweet Tea,” which refreshes you on a hot August day.

Be sure to notice the beautiful home across Indian Mound Road.

It’s one of the legendary Sears Kit Homes. Beginning in 1908, Sears sold 75,000 DIY mail-order homes. Your house arrived in 25-ton kits often by railroad. Now all you had to do was assemble 30,000 pre-cut parts, plumbing, and electrical fixtures numbercoded for your convenience. You got up to 750 pounds of nails as well. I suspect you had to provide your own hammer. This brilliant white Sears home bestows a patriotic touch to the area. A pristine U.S. flag hangs from the wraparound porch.

Of course, I had lunch at the old store, which is put together with wooden pegs, and afterwards I visited an old cemetery, which always gives me a peaceful easy feeling as the song goes. I drove around a bit, checking out things, gathering impressions. I had three stops to make and photos to take. I wanted to photograph the high school, one of South Carolina’s oldest still in use. Built in 1926, it’s a handsome building outfitted with computers, the Internet, and marvels that would stagger superintendents and faculty of long-gone yesteryear. They’d marvel at how the alchemy of technology turns old bricks into gold. I wanted to see the old Ware Shoals Inn, and I knew I’d walk along the shoals one more time.

The high school reminds me of mine in Georgia, built about the same time. I know it serves as a community center where people gather for football games, ceremonies, and other events. It’s a large complex, to me at least, and I have no doubt the school system provides the region’s heart, pumping out life itself.

Birds eye view of the Mill in the 1950s.

THE CENTER OF THE KNOWN UNIVERSE Tom Martin likes to say that Ware Shoals is the center of the known universe. I believe him and for a while the old Ware Shoals Inn hummed with life. Well, it’s closed now and up front two white crepe myrtles conspire to hide the steps leading to its entrance.

Built in 1923, the inn stands on a V-shaped lot intersecting three main streets. You cannot miss it. The story of Ware Shoals is the story of textile manufacturing. The Ware Shoals Manufacturing Company built the inn to host executives and folks doing business with the textile mill. The public used it too. Mill workers sometimes stayed in the rooms until housing became available, and teachers rented rooms there. I hear the old inn was converted to living space for senior citizens but it looks empty now, and more than a bit forlorn, something you see in other mill towns. Mills breathed life into small towns and then they sucked it out when they closed.

Dan Branyon, editor of The Observer, Ware Shoals’ weekly paper, told me a large mill once stood on a hill not far from Irvin Pitts Memorial Park. He said black men and white men used to roll dollies of cloth down that hill, using their feet as brakes. Well, they don’t anymore. Textile mills’ heyday in South Carolina came and went. I looked at that sloping field of grass imagining carts flying downhill. I heard a clatter of machinery as the old looms and machinery hummed away but then a crow landed in that field of one-time speeding carts, and I turned my thoughts to rocky shoals spider lilies. That’s what first attracted me to Ware Shoals.

A woman sent me a photo of rocky shoals spider lilies down near Irvin Pitts Memorial Park. And somehow that culminated in an invitation from Dr. Fay Sprouse to come see Ware Shoals. She and her husband had read my work in the Greenwood Index-Journal.

Perchance I might write about her home she asked. That’s the provenance of how this story came to be.

Tom Martin & Dr. Fay Sprouse So, it’s an August afternoon … the day is hot as only an August day can be. Taking photos feels like being in a steam bath. It’s time to leave. The shoals lure me back one more time. I park and walk down to the water. Though it’s August I see two lilies blooming, most unusual. They play out in June, you know. A raft of snowwhite ducks feed along the river’s edge as a grandfather and his grandson drive up. They come to fish and the man shows his grandson how to bait his rod and reel. He does so with patience.

I look west to the bridge I had crossed minutes earlier. Then I watch the Saluda River flow east where it picks up tributaries and carries away Blue Ridge Mountain and Piedmont waters to a rendezvous with the salty Atlantic courtesy of rivers it joins.

I’m glad William Ware ran a gristmill near here early in the 19th century and though that mill is long gone as another breed of mill is, Ware Shoals remains the center of the known universe. For me it’s a place of mystery, a place a ravishing woman called home, and a place where lilies bloom longer sending their sugary-lemony fragrance into river air. It’s a place of historic buildings, heroes, kind and beautiful people, old inns, old graveyards, and a river of significance.

Trust me when I tell you I’m going back to this place where the river sings. I just don’t know when.

roots to revolution: THE SEEDS OF LIBERTY GROWING ALONG THE LIBERTY TRAIL

Words by Jennifer Howard / Editorial Photos by Brian Kneely Photography

Stand along historic Rocky River Road in Lancaster County’s Buford community and feel the tension of the Virginia patriots as they faced the advancing British Legion under the leadership of the blood-thirsty Lieutenant Colonel Banastre Tarleton in the Spring of 1780. Hear the orders of the Continental’s Colonel Abraham Buford ordering his men to hold fire and smell the sulfur of gunpowder as the British left 113 Patriot men dead and another 203 wounded.

Today the 3rd Virginia Regiment’s gold flag crisply unfurls on the pole above the stone obelisk erected 1860, nearly 100 years after the battle at the Waxhaws battlefield on South Carolina’s Liberty Trail. The flag depicts a beaver chewing on the base of a palmetto tree to symbolize perseverance in overthrowing tyranny. Just steps away, freshly turned red clay surrounds a recently planted tulip poplar with rock star roots. To truly understand the significance of this tree, we must roll back time, way back.

46

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

The year was 1765. Turmoil was brewing in the colonies as the British continued to demand loyalty to the Crown and levied sizable taxes to strengthen their foothold on the independent colonists. Adamant to secure rights and to retain their independence, a small and secretive group of men in Boston and New York and Charles Town began gathering to rebel against the perceived unjust moves of the British authorities.

They called themselves “The Sons of Liberty.” It had the makings of a modern-day blockbuster film. The Sons of Liberty were proverbial rabble rousers who staged public gatherings to spread their message and ignite grassroots support for the cause of freedom and against the King.

With natural landmarks serving as important points of reference for the colonists, it’s no surprise that the Sons chose an elm near Boston Common as a frequent meeting place. Orators would

deliver energetic speeches that often concluded with protest marches through the streets, participants demanding “no taxation without representation.” The tree became such an integral part of their campaign that it was designated, the “Tree of Liberty” or the “Liberty Tree.” Patriotic announcements issued to the colonists would include a date and time, the nature of the gathering and specifically reference the location - The Liberty Tree. Even local shopkeepers would use the landmark as a reference in directing patrons to their shops. So powerful was this symbol, that the British attempted to suppress the colonists’ organizing efforts by destroying the original Boston Liberty Tree in 1775.

The Liberty Tree concept had aggressively spread to other colonies, cities and towns, with every major city boasting a designated tree. Liberty Trees were also used to hang and/or burn effigies of royal officials and authority, like tax collectors. In the port city of Charles Town, South Carolina, two markers exist documenting two likely locations of the Liberty Tree that met a fate similar to the original Boston tree. Others, in cities with no British occupation, survived long past their original purpose, continuing to be used as gathering places and iconic representations of the gallant efforts of our forefathers.

Maryland’s Liberty Tree held stories that spanned more than two centuries. On the campus of St. John’s College, Annapolis, the alma mater of Francis Scott Key, a tulip poplar’s broad crown served to promote the cause of liberty and became the meeting place for local Sons of Liberty organizers, Samuel Chase and William Paca. Following on the heels of the Boston Tea party, the Tree is rumored to have inspired lively debate surrounding the arrival of a ship, Peggy Stewart, carrying more than one ton of

boycotted tea. More than 100 years later, the Tree survived a prank of two schoolboys who exploded two pounds of gunpowder within a hollow opening in the trunk. Steel rods, cement, cables, and bolts held the tree together until 1999 when it finally succumbed to the howling winds of Hurricane Floyd.

But prior to its death, a non-profit organization, American Forests collected and germinated seeds, growing seedlings from the nearly 400-year-old tree. Those seedlings ensured that each of the original 13 colonies could once again boast a Liberty Tree, including one on the grounds of the South Carolina Statehouse. And perhaps more importantly, they became a source for the Providence Forum to create an ongoing program to grow more seedlings from the famous Maryland patriarch.

Earlier this summer, the volunteer Friends of Buford’s Massacre met at the Waxhaws battlefield to keep liberty growing by planting their own Liberty Tree, from the stock of the Sons of Liberty’s longest living specimen. This was made possible through a contribution from the South Carolina Battleground Preservation Trust (SCBPT).

The battle and massacre at the Waxhaws served as a clarion wakeup call for Americans to take a stand with their lives – kind of a “Pearl Harbor” or “9-11” of their day. The iconic tulip poplar descendant is a growing, living memorial to the perseverance of Liberty’s testament today and a stop that is sure to evoke strong emotions. How will you answer the call? Checking out the stops on South Carolina’s Liberty Trail is a great first step.

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

47

FOLLOWING LIBERTY Many historians consider the Revolutionary War to have been decided in the swamps, fields, woods and mountains of the South, won by the resilience and determination of Continental soldiers and patriot militia. Although the full story of the Southern Campaigns is not widely known, the events of 1779-1782 in the Carolinas directly led to an American victory in the war.

The American Battlefield Trust and the South Carolina Battleground Trust together with numerous partners at the national, state and local levels, are working to create The Liberty Trail. This driving trail will be a one-of-a-kind educational and heritage tourism destination through which key battlefields of the Southern Campaigns of the American Revolution will be preserved, interpreted and promoted. Ongoing implementation will eventually link more than 70 sites across South Carolina, preserving 2,500 acres of battlefield land. This will create a presence for The Liberty Trail in up to 35 counties.

Waxhaws, home to South Carolina’s youngest liberty tree, will become one of five new battlefield parks in the initial phase of The Liberty Trail.

Please visit TheLibertyTrail.org to learn more about this innovative, collaborative effort and sign up for email updates. You can also follow along on social media, watching as our many partners begin implementing The Liberty Trail vision using the hashtag #LibertyTrail.

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

49

FINDING YOUR WAY BY KNOWING YOUR STARS Words by W. Thomas Smith, Jr.

50

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

They’re beautiful beyond description. They function like a giant perfectly calibrated clock, and they are a connection to the Biblical patriarchs who a few millennia ago saw and spoke of the very same constellations we can see tonight. But my appreciation for stars has been a journey. And one of the key things I’ve learned is that just as the stars themselves can be a journeyer’s navigational guide, you don’t have to be a NASA research scientist to get your head around any of it.

My fascination with stars began as a Cub Scout during a camping trip wherein we “cubs” paired up with a group of older Boy Scouts and ventured somewhere out along the Wateree River in Kershaw County. This was now well over 50 years ago, but I still remember us darting around in a big multi-acre field surrounded by miles of piney woods playing “flashlight tag,” running and laughing until we could barely catch our breath.

Eventually, we collapsed on our backs for what seemed like an hour in the cool grass and looked up at what appeared to be a zillion stars in the clearest blackest sky.

The scoutmaster, Mr. Frierson, a retired Army officer, pointed out a lot of the constellations.

Though difficult to make out the various animaland-other shapes in the sky, that particular overnight outing observing the vast starry sky impressed me far more than the field trips my elementary-school class sometimes made to the Gibbes planetarium in Columbia. Though that too was exciting.

Stars for me are an absolute manifestation of the supreme power of God: His art, orderliness, constancy, and the miracle of 2,000-plus years ago.

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

51

When I was about eight-years-old, I remember Dad and I standing in front of the Villa Tronco Restaurant in downtown Columbia. It was a few nights before Christmas, and I was looking west down Blanding Street and up into the black sky where I saw a very bright star (more likely a planet now that I think about it). I told Dad it might be what the wise men had seen. He agreed. We stood there a few minutes in the cold looking at and talking about the ‘star’ before we got in the car and headed home. It probably wasn’t the Bethlehem star, but it is a great memory.

If you know what season of the year it is, you can find the position of either body relative to Polaris and determine what time of night it is. Moreover, find either the Big Dipper or Cassiopeia, then Polaris, and you will easily establish your bearings – knowing precisely which direction is north, south, east, or west – every single clear night of the year. Simple, right?

South of the equator is a bit more challenging, but we will save that for another discussion.

Many years later in college, I took two semesters of astronomy as part of my physical science requirement studying the make-up of the planets, the relative size and composition of the stars (mostly hydrogen and helium), and the distances primarily measured in light years from Earth to all things visible in the heavens. But that didn’t aid as much in my love of stars as it did help me better understand the nature of them.

Then in the Marine Corps during land-navigation training followed by real-world practical application, I learned much about how to traverse great distances at night using key stars and various constellations as guides; a skillset that benefits me even today; as it can you, especially in South Carolina.

Here’s why: In terms of geographic location, S.C. is between 33 and 35 degrees north of the equator, which means that on a clear night, our skies offer magnificent views of the celestial heavens.

And for nighttime navigation purposes we have a perfect view of the North Star (aka Polaris) all year long, which is critical if you are out hiking, struggling to find your way home, and you’re without GPS capability or any recognizable terrain features. If you know your stars – and frankly they’re not too difficult to learn – you will never be lost.

The basics are simple.

FIRST: Remember that the stars (like the sun) generally rise in

SECOND: Pick up a star guide and learn to identify a few of the

constellations and asterisms (asterisms are star groups that are not full constellations). Easiest to recognize on a cold winter’s night when the moisture is chilled out of the air, are magnificent constellations like Orion, Canis Major, Taurus, and the Pleaides (my favorite by the way) among others.

THIRD: Learn to recognize and find the Big Dipper (part of the

Great Bear) and Cassiopeia. This is key, because these two stellar bodies – the Dipper and Cassiopeia – rotate counterclockwise around Polaris every single night of the year. They are always positioned at different points throughout the night around Polaris.

And Polaris never rises or sets.

BEACH AT BOTANY BAY, S.C., UNDER THE NIGHT SKY.

the east and set in the west. Not every star, which is why I say “generally” and will explain momentarily. And not that they’re actually rising; but we’re turning toward them. Think about it. The earth is always rotating eastward toward everything in the heavens.

THE HEART OF IT ALL THE HEART OF IT ALL

Summerville is directly positioned the heart at of the heart of the Summerville is directlyatpositioned most beloved attractions the Lowcountry.

Its small- Its smallmost beloved in attractions in the Lowcountry. town atmosphere and proximity Charleston the town atmosphere andtoproximity to and Charleston and the beaches make Summerville the perfect home base for all base for all beaches make Summerville the perfect home your adventures. visitsummerville.com your adventures. visitsummerville.com

Explore the shops, sites, sips and tastes that make Summerville Explore thea shops, sites,Tea sipsTrail and tastes that make Summerville so sweet with free Sweet Guide. so sweet with a free Sweet Tea Trail Guide.

t

m an s ou

f ro m

m

a

southe

r

I will not swelter in the sun while my makeup rolls down my face, dribbles off my chin, glides along my neck and gathers in the deep, forbidden crevice that at one time turned men’s heads — and still does, only now men are shaking their heads when they turn away. Gone too are my fantasies of being 20-ish again and able to wiggle into a pair of shorty-shorts that years ago would make me look fabulously hot on those 100-degree game-days. This fall, during game days, I will not have hormone-induced hot-flashes that come with the intensity of a nuclear blast, nor will I gulp ice cold mimosas that become hot toddies seconds after poured.

No more walking through the parking lot and dodging footballs that barely miss my head. I won’t experience the challenge of finding a clean porta-potty (no such thing, not ever, not anywhere) or holding my breath for longer than a Polynesian pearl diver. (I’ll be honest, I’m not even sure there is such a thing as a Polynesian pearl diver, but right now Polynesia, pearls, and diving into cool water sounds pretty good to me.)

This season, there will be no tailgating and no more feeding strangers who wander into our tent. Wander is a generous term. Often they stumble, tumble, and take Thomas’s chair. I will miss the guilt of eating high-carb, sugary foods and grazing on Bojangles chicken like a prizewinning Four-H heifer.

th e r n g e

If you think that above sentence seems long, try sitting through fifteen minutes of nothingness in the stadium while ESPN shows commercials for beer, pizza, and personal hygiene products.

ou

Okay, no, not really. We do not know. What we do know is that TODAY, right this minute, we won’t be leaving our home this coming Saturday before sunrise (yes, traffic is that bad on game day – in fact, we should start driving now to get to next year’s season opener), driving two hours, only to sit on a cooler (why do they call them coolers when it’s so blasted hot) for who know how long for a 5 PM kickoff that would have been pushed back to seven, except the TV gods demand our game start during the hottest part of the day.

s

After months of wondering if it will happen, we finally know; no traditional football for us this season.

le nt

By: JANE JENKINS HERLONG a

f ro

n

from a FEMALE FAN i ve s

c t i ve s

lady sou

rn perspe e FOOTBALL FALL-OUT h ct

pe

t

rn pers e h

I won’t be watching the whackos dressed in outrageous game-day face-paint and wondering: Is that Daddy’s second cousin? I swear, I think it is! No sitting on a cooler of warm water in an empty parking lot into the wee hours of the night while waiting for game-day traffic to thin. Once upon a time, Thomas and I would have ourselves a little fun while waiting. Now we nap.

It will be tough to realize that I will not be sitting in the stands, talking to Thomas who spends most of his time talking to the men in striped shirts.

I will not miss being packed into the stadium with hardly any room to think. I will not miss that obnoxious fan who yells in my ear during the entire game. I will not miss the bag of popcorn and co-cola that goes for $28.00.

You know what I will miss? I will miss that cute, little, clear plastic purse fashion accessory I always carry to games.

But I am a Southerner and it is my birthright to shed pints of perspiration, yell, cheer, sing the National Anthem and cry when one of our boys makes the play of a lifetime. So while I will not miss some parts of game day, I will miss being at the stadium on game day.

As of TODAY, right this minute, we will watch the game from our recliners at home. We will hug each other after the prayer and shed a tear when jets fly over our beloved stadium. This year, more than ever, we will be one giant team fighting some pesky, little virus floating around in the air like a bungled, half-back pitch. And when at last we can once again gather together, it will be a lovefest and an opportunity for the greatest win of all: Community.

Our team colors have become red, white and blue; our “fight song" is the National Anthem.

Although the goalposts have been moved, this year we all have to huddle up, go long, and fight.

Winning has a different definition. And when things settle down let’s remember to love and celebrate each other regardless of what team we are on. Be your own champion and remember the greatest victories in life are born from the power of spirit…the human spirit.

Jane is the best-selling author of four books and a professional Southern humorist. For speaking engagements visit - janeherlong.com

t

m an s ou

lady sou

le nt

ou

th e r n g e

m

n

s

a

southe

r

And isn’t “cuttin’ a fool” a great phrase? It means acting silly or being a smarty-pants. We have lots of phrases and words unique to the South. Who but a Southerner calls toys “play-prettys,” earrings “ear bobs,” shopping carts “buggies,” homework “lessons,” and the like? Who else threatens children with “I’m going to jerk a knot in you,” “you keep that up and I’m going to smack you into the middle of next week,” and “I brought you into this world and I can take you out of it?” Did you ever whine about something as a child only to be told “If wishes were horses, beggars would ride?” or “If ifs and buts were candy and nuts, my what a Christmas we’d have?” Whining, naturally, was the very worst method of getting what you wanted. And speaking of Christmas, how many of you still get a stocking from Santy (that’s how we pronounce it) Claus that includes nuts, oranges, and candy canes? Older generations may remember when that’s about all you received, and were glad to have them.

Gratitude, too, is quite the Southern trait, not that it can’t be found in other regions; we’ve just perfected it. Do you have only a plate of pinto beans and cornbread? You’ll share it with whomever comes into the house, from the mayor to the yard man. I’ll bet you’ve taken groceries to someone, perhaps anonymously, who’s having a hard time despite working hard, or who drinks too much and isn’t spending money to feed the children. Southerners of all races knew poverty long before the Great Depression and haven’t forgotten it even if they’ve never had the misfortune of experiencing it. Our bumper crops of tomatoes, squash, okra, peppers, corn, and anything else we grow in our yards are taken to a variety of friends, neighbors, and acquaintances, and almost no one would take money in return.

We southerners, you must understand, again of whatever race, creed, or color, see ourselves in the same boat, as it were. We’ve either had hard times or know family members who have.

We know that hungry folks aren’t just overseas, but can be just down the street. We know that when we take food and write notes when

a

Our grandmother, a very well-read lady, was a queen of witticisms, and particularly was fond of channeling Dorothy Parker. She would retort with something that only hours later would most of us think to reply, long after the moment passed. There was an older lady in our neighborhood, though probably no older than grandmother, who seemed to detest children, especially little boys, and she loved nothing more than to get on the telephone and “tell on” them to their parents. As a boy, I asked grandmother whether all old people were as mean as Mrs. So-and-So, and grandmother replied, “no, hon, she was a w***h when she was twenty.” Indeed.

Mrs. So-and-So and grandmother attended the same church and once arrived at the front doors at the same time. Mrs. So-and-So opened the door first and said to grandmother “age before beauty,” as grandmother sailed inside, fur trailing and remarking “pearls before swine Marie, pearls before swine.” Oops, I dropped her name; in fairness, I must mention that Marie never forgot a birthday and always called to give her best wishes.

Our daddy, one of the kindest of men since Jesus walked the earth, was a wicked practical joker and witty in his own right, despite being taciturn much of the time. We once were at a formal wedding reception where the ladies were in their finest evening wear and daddy spotted a female acquaintance across the room. With something akin to a silent-film double-take, he whispered to us “good Lord, she looks like a bale of hay tied together with two strings.” My teetotal punch nearly spurted out my nose, and I always remember that episode when someone wears clothes that may have fit a decade or so earlier. Another time, the head pastor of our parent’s church bought a new car of which he was inordinately proud. During the Sunday School hour, daddy walked across the street to Skipper’s

service station and bought a quart of oil which he proceeded to pour beneath the pastor’s new car.

After the service, he told the pastor he liked the car, but there must be an oil problem and showed him the “leak.” There was much consternation before daddy fessed up to his cuttin’ a fool.

e

f ro m

f ro

Far be it from me ever to question that we Southerners have cornered the market on the gift of gab, that we never let the truth get in the way of a good story, that we revel in gossip, that we tell stories better than even the best of librarians, and that we can entertain each other better than anything on television or a movie screen. We like eccentricity, faux or otherwise, which is another way of saying we like our crazies—and we’re all just a little crazy.

persp

i ve s

c t i ve s

By: JAMES C. SAXON

rn e h

ct

pe

rs e r n p eSHARE YOUR h t of the PADDLING

there’s sickness or death that we’ll eventually be receiving those notes and food. And the good Lord knows we can slop sugar better than anyone—for you young ones or uninitiated, that means we learned how to spread the love long before the so-called Summer of Love. In fact, grandmother’s favorite admonition was “love is like money and manure—if you don’t spread it around, it does no good.” Grown men aren’t ashamed of weeping when a friend is sick or dies.

People hug like there’s no tomorrow, because we understand tomorrow isn’t a promise. We may fight each other like banshees in person or on the telephone, but the conversation ends with “love you, and say hey to your mama and ‘em,” because we know the last time we say I love you may be the last time.

Most of us in 2020 have traveled to many other regions and countries, but many of us do not want to grow old in the fun cities of New York or Chicago or Los Angeles, or maybe even New Orleans or Atlanta. Do people take care of each other in those places? Maybe. But you can rest assured that in the smaller cities and towns throughout the South someone will look out for you as you age and become less able to do things on your own. We don’t see this as a chore, and certainly not anything unpleasant. Again, it’s gratitude, you see, for what folks have done for us and our older loved ones, and is our way of paying it forward, to use a newer phrase.

Here, almost, endeth the lesson. First, though, go out into the world and spread some sugar, share some food and laughter and stories, make a few outlandish remarks—never to hurt anyone’s feelings—and be thankful. Remember, we are in the same boat, so let’s all do our share of paddling.

Preparing

Pumpkins

Words by Abbey Stevens

WHILE THE THOUGHT OF PREPARING PUMPKINS TO MAKE HOMEMADE PUREE MAY SEEM DAUNTING, THE PROCESS IS QUITE SIMPLE AND CAN AMP UP THE FLAVOR IN YOUR BAKED GOODS. THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PUMPKINS, EACH SUITED FOR SPECIFIC CATEGORIES OF DISHES. EACH OF THE FOLLOWING VARIETIES CAN BE FOUND ACROSS SOUTH CAROLINA AND WILL GREATLY ENHANCE YOUR FALL RECIPES THIS HOLIDAY SEASON. LEFTOVER PUMPKIN PUREE CAN BE STORED IN THE FREEZER FOR SIX TO EIGHT MONTHS. STORE IN 1 CUP MEASUREMENTS SO THAWING AND USING FOR OTHER RECIPES IS SEAMLESS. BE SURE TO SAVE THE SEEDS AND USE THEM FOR OTHER TREATS!

Blue

Pumpkin

Cut into 1 inch wedges and remove pulp and seeds. Drizzle wedges with olive oil and bake at 400° F for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until fork-tender. Let cool.

Remove flesh from skin and puree. Due to their creamy texture, blue pumpkins are best used in butters, breads, and pies.

Sugar/Pie

Pumpkin

Fairy Tale

Pumpkin

Cut in half and remove pulp and seeds.

Cut into slices using deep ribs as a guide

Brush inside of pumpkin with olive oil and

and remove pulp and seeds. Bake at 375°

place face down on baking sheet. Bake at

F for 30 minutes, or until fork-tender. Allow

350° F for 50 minutes, or until fork-tender.

to cool, remove flesh from rind and puree.

Let cool and remove skin from flesh. Puree,

Fairytale pumpkins are best used for tarts,

then place puree in cheese cloth and

soups, and muffins. Their tough rind also

allow to drain overnight. Sugar pumpkins

allows them to serve as bowls for soup.

are very versatile and can be used in any recipe that calls for pumpkin.

Words by Joshua Walker / Editorial Photos by Dreampop Media

wine pairings

thanksgiving

Joshua Walker, owner of Wine & Co. in downtown Charleston, offers up his tips for picking the perfect wines for your Thanksgiving celebrations this year.

Rich, Textured Whites

CAMAY

Chardonnay can sometimes get a bad rap, but it's all about choosing

The biggest grape missing from your regular rotation is Gamay. We

your diverse Thanksgiving spread, look to California or Oregon.

Burgundy's southern little brother and go for a Cru Beaujolais. These

the right style. If you want density, power, and richness to pair with For elegance and acidity, nothing beats Burgundy. Or if you want to mix it up, grab a Rhone Valley white like Roussanne. Chateau

Beaucastel's Vieilles Vignes shows serious complexity with familiar

flavors like orange marmalade and confederate jasmine tied together by fresh acidity.

all know and love the Pinot Noir from Burgundy, but this year opt for wines are smooth, juicy, and easy drinking yet complex enough to do the heavy lifting as you make your second plate. This varietal is not

only a holiday crowd pleaser–Gamay harvested from one of the ten

crus always over-delivers for the price tag. An added bonus - many of the producers in the Beaujolais are organic, sustainable farmers who put serious focus on the purity of the wines they create.

BUBBLES Consider this permission to finally dust off

that bottle you’ve been waiting for a special

occasion to drink. When it comes to a rich,

meaty Thanksgiving dinner, nothing pairs as

gracefully as Champagne. This year opt for a

rosé version of the classics; the added texture from skin contact during fermentation will create power, while the bubbles and fresh

acidity will keep your palate open to food.

Don’t be afraid to look at sparkling wine outside of Champagne either. There are

some beautiful Pét Nat (Pétillant Naturel – minimalist, ancient style of sparkling wine)

options in the market like Cruse from Santa Barbara.

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

59

highlights/splurge

LOPEZ de HEREDIA 'VINA Tondonia' Gran Reservea 1995 There’s never a better time to splurge on a bottle of wine than when you’re sharing it with the people you love the most. Spanish region Rioja Alta

champions the marriage between old and world styles and is sure to please your friends' and family's differing tastes. If you don’t want to wait twenty

years to enjoy, find a producer like Lopez de Heredia who stores their wines until they reach peak perfection – the current vintage is 25 years old upon release.

DOM RUINART 2004

W ine & Company chswine.com

411 Meeting Street, Suite B Charleston, SC 29403 (843) 277-2857

Dom Ruinart is a vintage wine that

is produced from Champagne’s best harvests. This classic blanc de blanc

(meaning it's all chardonnay) offers

serious intensity with low acidity that gives it the versatility to pair with

every course. The tight bubbles are a

refreshing match to your favorite salty dishes.

TA S T E S

L I K E

ONENATION COFFEE Words by Michelle McCollum

New York City Manhattan downtown skyline at night from Liberty Park with light beams in memory of September 11 viewed from New Jersey waterfront.

A

s I write, it is the morning of September 11, 2020. I am sitting at my kitchen table with a cup of coffee and sounds of the national news coming from the TV in my living room. (I am drinking OneNation Coffee’s M.O.A.B. – Mother of All Blends. But I am going to tell you about their newest blend and the reason for this story). Today is the day we remember what happened on that terrible date in our nation’s history. Images of the twin towers, the Pentagon, and the crash site at Somerset County, Pennsylvania, will flood our news channels, our social media, and our minds. We will never forget!

We should also never forget what happened on September 12, 2001. It was the day we came together as one nation. On this day members of Congress sang “God Bless America” in unity on the steps of the United States Capitol, strangers embraced in solidarity over love of country, and flags waved from car windows and front porches across this land. We were one nation, indivisible.

It is with this spirit that I introduce to you the newest blend from OneNation Coffee; the 9/12 Tribute Blend, a coffee the owners hope will unite Americans and raise money to support active duty military, veterans, and first responders. Neil Johnson, co-owner of OneNation Coffee says, “Let us come together once again – all races, genders, and creeds – to celebrate America. Over a cup of coffee, let us focus on the things that unite us. Let us once again become one nation.”

Before I tell you how awesome this new blend is, let me first tell you a little about the OneNation Coffee story. This is a story about friendship, bravery, service, and success. So, sit back in your favorite chair and grab a cup of coffee. If the coffee in your cup is not OneNation Coffee, this story just might change that.

LEFT TO RIGHT: PHILIP MONIZ & JOHN RICHARDS

Philip Moniz and John Richards were inseparable as kids growing up in the little town of Summerville, South Carolina; that is, until John’s family moved across country to California. It was an emotional separation, but life went on and soon the boys grew into men, began careers, and started their own families. They thought of one another often and each attempted many times to find the other one. The attempts were never successful until 2011 when Philip came across the name “John Richards” on Facebook and reached out. Success!

Amazingly, although they were separated by miles that spanned an entire country, their life paths were strikingly similar. After college, Philip built his career in law enforcement, working in many different leadership roles. He eventually became a member of the SWAT Team where he worked his way up to the breaching element leader. He also became a hazardous device / bomb technician; a job that he describes as “the guy in the big, heavy, fat suit that goes down and makes bombs go away.”

John is an active-duty senior chief petty officer in the U.S. Navy and serves as an explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) technician.

In simple terms, he is a part of the Navy’s bomb squad. In his 18+ years with the Navy, he has traveled the world, participated in dangerous dive operations, jumped out of planes, and even disarmed improvised explosive devices (IEDs).

Does anyone else think it’s pretty amazing that both of these childhood friends, separated at an early age, went on to choose careers in public service and this service ultimately led to working with bombs? And what else did these two friends decide they were equally passionate about? Coffee. And not just any coffee, GREAT coffee.

After the two connected, they quickly made the decision to start a company together. Their goals for a company were to make money, support their families and give back to the veteran and law enforcement communities. Because of their love for coffee (and because of all the awful coffee they drank throughout their careers) they decided that coffee would be the product. They also decided that integrity and accountability would be the foundation of the business.

“Of course, we want to make money, but that is not what drives us,” John explained. “The big question for us was, can we look ourselves in the mirror if we don’t do this the right way?” Philip added that being hands-on ensures quality control. “Because we personally handle every aspect of the business, from roasting to bagging to weighing to shipping, we are confident of the quality. We will be over the weight on a bag before we will ever go under the weight. Period.”

Rooted in the philosophy established by John and Philip, the business continued to grow. Fast forward to January 2020 when they met Neil Johnson, who shared their philosophy and joined the OneNation Coffee team. Neil was active in the Navy for six years as a Naval nuclear reactor operator assigned to the USS Miami SSN 755. He served over 500 days underwater. After the Navy, he studied Mechanical Engineering at Clemson University and made his way into corporate America where he worked for GE Energy and BP. He eventually left BP in 2018 to follow his true passion of full-time trading and investing and was drawn to OneNation because of the passion John and Philip have for what they do.

This dynamic trio has worked together over the past several months to expand the business. They have purchased a roaster, secured a shop in Summerville, introduced K-cups to their product offerings, and now, today (the day I am writing this article) they are rolling out their “9/12 Tribute Blend.”

This special blend boasts a smooth full body taste of a mediumdark blend. And, as always, OneNation coffee beans are sourced only from Rainforest Alliance Certified™ farms which are audited regularly to verify that farmers are complying with the Standard’s comprehensive requirements. All their coffee is roasted in small batches and ground to order, so you can expect the freshest coffee possible.

The 9/12 blend is being offered at a special price of $9.12 per bag.

One dollar from every bag sold will help to support our nation’s first responders, active duty military and veterans through the OneNation Charitable giving program. “Giving back is a core philosophy of our company,” explained OneNation co-founder John Richards. “From the very beginning we wanted to create a business model that gives back to those who give so much of themselves to our nation.”

NEIL JOHNSON

“Donations from OneNation Coffee have been extremely helpful in the work of our foundation. They saw the work we are doing to help veterans and first responders, and they came to the table with funds needed to support our key programs. They did exactly what they said they would do.”

- PATRICK ELSWICK, WLS FOUNDATION PRESIDENT & CEO

LEFT TO RIGHT: PHILIP, PATRICK ELSWICK & JOHN

So what’s more American than baseball, hot dogs, and apple pie?

As a self-proclaimed coffee connoisseur and life-long patriot, I have to say supporting a company that believes in American values and gives back to those who serve our great country fit the bill.

For over two years, the OneNation M.O.A.B blend has been in my cup. I am excited today to order my first bag of the 9/12 Tribute Blend.

Won’t you join me for a cup of coffee?

To order your subscription, go to OneNationcoffee.com

BEGINNERS TIPS FOR COMPOSTING Words by Abbey Stevens

As the cooler weather draws near, something in my soul pulls me closer to the kitchen. There’s just something magical about having a cozy, home cooked meal on a chilly night. With more home cooking also comes more kitchen scraps. Each time I cut up a head of broccoli or bell pepper, I can’t help but feel wasteful when throwing out the inedible bits. To combat this guilty feeling, I started my very own backyard compost bin. Here are a few tips I learned in getting started:

For starters, you’ll need a compost bin. You can have an open compost pile, but for residential areas, I highly recommend having a closed off bin.

You can either buy a specialty bin, or if you are a DIYer, you can make one. The most important feature is the ability to churn your compost, so decomposition occurs evenly throughout your soonto-be plant gold.

68

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

Once you have your bin, make sure you choose an out-of-the-way, yet convenient place to put it. Just think, no one wants to trek to the back corner of their yard in the rain or freezing cold. Although, having your bin placed by a commonly used walkway could arguably be just as bad.

Now that your bin is set up, it’s time to start adding your organic materials.

For a well-balanced compost, you’ll want to alternate layers. One layer being ‘brown’ materials such as twigs, shredded paper bags, dead plant materials, cardboard, and coffee filters.

The next layer should be your ‘green’ layer, which should be comprised of material such as fruit peels, coffee grounds, vegetable scraps, egg shells, and green garden waste.

If all of this information sounds beneficial, but overwhelming, check out composting programs in your area. These programs work similarly to waste pickup.

You are provided a bucket to fill with compostable scraps that is picked up weekly or biweekly from your curb.

The company takes care of composting the materials on a large scale, and in return you are allowed a given amount of finished compost in return. Regardless of what capacity you are involved in, composting is a very rewarding and economical way to keep organic materials out of landfills and organically fertilize your garden.

To cut down on trips to your bin, store your scraps as they accumulate and transport to your outdoor bin as needed. I recommend having a container under your sink or in the freezer for your compostable scraps.

Finished compost will be at the top of your bin and should smell earthy, with a brown, crumbly texture. To ensure finished product within 4-6 months, remember to alternate brown and green layers, churn materials once a week and keep mixture moist, but not wet. Getting a start now will produce a first yield just in time for spring flowers.

Finished compost can be sprinkled over your lawn, used as top dressing in flower beds, or mixed in to garden soil as a soil conditioner.

70

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

Words by Michelle McCollum

A

recent project led me on a quest around the South Carolina Upstate to find a location for a meeting with community leaders on the topic of conservation and resilient living. I was not interested in the average meeting space; I wanted to be outdoors for this conversation so the setting would complement the subject and stimulate discussion.

My search led me to a very unique community tucked away in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains – Riverstead.

A RESILIENT LIVING COMMUNITY

Riverstead is a gated community encompassing over 400 acres of land, with 250 acres dedicated to nature conservation. Within the 250 acres – dubbed “Riverstead Park” – are over six miles of hiking and bike trails, and 2.5 miles of river access for kayaking, canoeing, and fishing. As you pull through the gate and drive over the first hill, the majestic Blue Ridge Mountain Range is there to greet you. It’s a beautiful, panoramic view making you stop and simply say, “Wow.” thesouthernedgemagazine.com

71

It was not only the location and beauty of this community that caught my attention, but also the philosophy behind its development, which is resilient living. Resilience is defined as the capacity to recover quickly from difficulties; some would even call this trait, toughness. “Resilient living,” however, is about so much more than the ability to recover from adversity; it’s a way of living that puts you in greater control of your life journey. It’s about living with intention.

“We belong in nature, and benefit by being immersed in it. Riverstead sprouted from the hearts of individuals dedicated to their families, wanting to give future generations the same access to natural beauty that they had growing up. A place where families can reconnect with nature, and each other.”

- Lucas Anthony, community developer

72

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

Families can bike ride, hike, kayak, fish, and enjoy the community pool. And, there’s more. An organic farm is part of Riverstead providing fresh fruits, vegetables, honey and eggs; and, members of the community are provided opportunities to be involved with and learn from the farm. Finally, at the heart of Riverstead, is the community gathering place – the Pavilion – where community events take place on a regular basis.

We held our meeting at the Pavilion, and it was the perfect spot for our talk on conservation. The scenes were breath-taking, and the conversation was stimulating. I am very sure that many of our participants will be back soon, maybe permanently.

The South Carolina Seven held its fireside chat on Resilient Living with Lt. Governor Pamela Evette and other community leaders.

thesouthernedgemagazine.com

73

Words by Abbey Stevens Wake Up Early – With the sun rising later in the morning and cooler mornings approaching, the temptation to stay in bed until the very last second is stronger than ever. Resisting the snooze button keeps your morning routine in check, and keeps your body and mind in a healthy sleep routine.

Morning Routine – This tip goes hand in hand with the previous. Having a set morning routine gets you geared up for the day and maximizes productivity throughout the day. Whether it’s getting your workout in, meditating, or just enjoying breakfast with a few moments of silence, having an enjoyable, set routine gives you something to look forward to when getting out of your warm, cozy bed.

Time for Scheduling – Though the days are growing shorter, our schedules get much busier around the holidays. Taking time to jot down a to-do list for the week, month, and season is a good idea to stay on track.

Regardless if your list is on the back of an envelope, in a spreadsheet, or on a calendar, writing down tasks and checking them off helps you feel productive and cuts down on

Remember to Eat Your Veggies – Nothing goes together quite like summer and fresh produce. But if it’s hard for you to reach for a refreshing salad during the cooler months, try a stir fry instead. Just sauté whichever veggies you have on hand with a dash of soy sauce and honey and serve on a bed of kale.

Viola! You’ve got a cozy version of a salad while still getting in a ton of micronutrients.

Experiment with flavors and proteins to mix it up.

Don’t Skip the Gym – I think most of us are a bit more conscious of our fitness level when we know we will be in a bikini for the season, but don’t let the first below-freezing night also freeze your gym membership. It’s completely normal to add on a few pounds as the temperatures drop, but don’t sacrifice all of the work you’ve put in just because bikini season has passed. Even if you cut your gym visits in half, keeping up with the routine of being at the gym will make it that much easier to kick it into high gear next spring.

Endorphins produced from working out will also help fight the winter blues.

Southern

FIELD TRIPS Words by Rhonda Gaffney Featured Blogger for The Southern Edge

Travelers Rest

Buckle up your bike helmet for a trip to Travelers Rest! Just kidding. I don’t bike. If you do though, this is a great day trip for you. You can bike along the Swamp Rabbit Trail and hop off along the way to drink and eat all day. You can even rent a bike there if you so choose. Again, I don’t bike unless its stationary so we basically just ate and drank our way along the trail. thesouthernedgemagazine.com

77

SWAMP RABBIT BREWERY First stop was Swamp Rabbit Brewery for some afternoon cocktails. We took some friends along for this field trip. The boys enjoyed the craft beer and the girls chose a refreshing blackberry cider. The atmosphere is really fun and light hearted with indoor and outdoor seating. They were setting up for BBQ that night and there was a high school reunion setting up in their backyard area. It is a great place to stop and have a cold drink on a hot day.

THE TASTING ROOM Our next stop was The Tasting Room. Such a cute place! They have a great selection of beer and wine. Obviously we needed a drink after drinking for an hour already. We loved the atmosphere and the bartenders were awesome too. So friendly and helpful.

It is a hidden gem in TR. It is located right behind Farmhouse Tacos and Rocket Surgery so it's perfect for a before dinner or after dinner drink. We actually chose both.

ROCKET SURGERY Next up was the main event! I had been told by several people to try Rocket Surgery and after following them on Instagram and drooling over their pictures, I thought it was high time! It is right on Main Street in front of The Tasting Room, so we just walked right over. We chose to sit out on the covered terrace and it was lovely. We started with the warm marinated olives, goat cheese and house-made bread. I was a bit skeptical because goat cheese isn’t at the top of my list. However, I love olives so we went for it. Bam! I like goat cheese now. I just needed to know how to pair it with the right thing. It was a little warm and combined with the saltiness of the olives and the amazing bread: It was delicious. The house-made bread was a carb lovers dream. If you are doing Keto, you’re out of luck here. It would be worth the cheat day though. Myself, I’m on a high carb diet. You know how it is when you’re just shy of 50, right? Gotta keep those carbs up to keep that weight on.

Speaking of carbs, lets dig into the entrees. We all got something different and they were all absolutely amazing. I chose the Duck Ragout with Campanelle pasta, mushrooms, tarragon, preserved orange, grana padano and it was out-of-this-world amazing. All of the pasta is house-made and the difference is incredible. The flavor was so complex and the duck absolutely melted in my mouth.

Jeff chose the Bolognese with Bucatini pasta, pork tomato sauce, grana padano, roasted garlic and basil. Outstanding! The pasta was perfection.

My friend, Christy, chose the Agnolotti with Ricotta, goat cheese, and preserved lemon, blistered tomatoes, basil, grana padano and she added the meatballs. I’m not really a meatball person. It is a texture thing for me. Believe me, I’ve tried. These were good though. The texture was just right and they were full of flavor. Her husband, Ray, chose the Chicken Parm with Mozzarella and herb stuffed chicken, marinated tomatoes, roasted garlic, grana padano, preserved lemon. Wowzers! Bring your appetite for this one.

The service was excellent with the manager checking on everyone.

She was so friendly and made our experience that much better.

Needless to say, dessert wasn’t an option after all of that amazing pasta. I would definitely go back. They are only open Tuesday Saturday, so plan your field trip accordingly.

We had to end the evening with a nightcap so back to the The Tasting Room. It is such a nice place to sip a drink, relax, visit and let your meal settle. Speaking of which, we discovered the most amazing thing there: Underberg. If you haven’t heard of it, I promise you need it in your life. If you’ve ever over indulged in food or drink this little elixir is a miracle. After eating our weight in pasta, this little shot of magic made us feel like a million bucks again. Underberg is a German digestif bitter made from aromatic herbs from 43 different countries. It has a bit of licorice after taste that I enjoy but even if you don’t like licorice, it is worth it. Underberg has been working its magic for people since 1846.

Thanks to Amazon, I will never be without it. It is my new holy grail for stomach distress. I’ll leave it at that.

FARMHOUSE TACOS You can only eat and drink so much in one day, and I really wanted to try Farmhouse Tacos so Jeff and I went back solo the next Saturday. Obviously we had to visit our new friends at The Tasting Room for a pre-meal drink and they remembered us as soon as we walked in. If I lived in TR, this would be my hangout for sure.

We walked over to Farmhouse Tacos and decided to be sensible and pass on the chips so that we could each try two tacos. Good choice. I went with the Grass Fed Ground Beef taco with romaine, sharp cheddar, pico de gallo, and chipotle aioli and the Baja Fish taco with grilled haddock, romaine, pico, cilantro pesto. Of the two, the ground beef won hands down. The flavors were very complex for a beef taco. Jeff chose the Ancho Charred Chicken taco with romaine, guacamole, Monterey Jack cheese and honey jalapeño crema and the Blackberry Duck taco with duck confit, goat cheese, Serrano, corn and habanero blackberry sauce. He said both were excellent. I have to tell you though, the star of the show was the charred corn on the cob with spicy aioli, green onions and cojita cheese. It was the best corn I’ve ever eaten. I don’t say that lightly.

I’m almost 50 and raised in the South so I’ve eaten my fair share of corn. The corn alone is worth the drive to TR. You’re welcome.

So thats it! You could do a day trip biking the Swamp Rabbit Trail, having a drink at Swamp Rabbit Brewery & Taproom, bike down to Farmhouse Tacos for lunch and bike along the trail to work that lunch off. Or, if you’re like me, pop an Underberg and relax until dinner with your friends. Rocket Surgery is a must for dinner and The Tasting Room is your go-to for your before or after dinner beer and wine. Tell them Southern Field Trips sent you!

THE SUMMER SEASON MAY BE OVER, BUT PADDLE SEASON IS NOT. FALL IS THE PERFECT TIME TO ENJOY THE BLUEWAYS OF SOUTH CAROLINA.

GOPADDLESC.COM

Fall kayaking on Lake Moultrie / Courtesy of Blueway Adventures / bluewayadventures.com

Start your subscription today!

PRINT ISSUES AVAILABLE AT thesouthernedgemagazine.com

A new magazine for a new South