Discover Scotland Issue 50 by Discover Scotland

Spikin Scots Oban to Fort William road trip Crazy sustainable fashion

Traditional dish with a twist Outlander hot spots New look at an auld sang p1

February 2021

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Photos by Vinny Keenan

K eepin g t he f la g f ly ing

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Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue 14 Mind

our language

24 Exploring p6

Oban to Fort William

Index - Inside this issue

38 Six

top Outlander locations

51 Visit

56 The

castle that ruled the west

Inverness and Loch Ness with... Jo de Sylva

64 Hunting

antiques with... Roo Irvine

74The

origins of Auld Lang Syne p7

Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue 82 Musical

Discoveries and the story behind the song

Last chance to win a laugh 100

92Glimmer

of hope from light touch p8

Chef in a kilt with... Gordon Howe

Index - Inside this issue

107 Plans

for new distillery

112 Tartan

back to Black Isle

134Down

hill adventure

120Beauty

& Style with... Alicja Błasińska p9

Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue 144Scotland’s

stories with… Graeme Johncock

1 Cover

153Island p10

bolthole for sale

Photo

Photo by David N Anderson The Bruce’s Stone, Loch Trool

Contacts: General Enquiries: info@discoverscotlandmagazine.com Discover Scotland is an independent magazine published by Discover Scotland Ltd. The monthly digital title provides an international audience of readers with comprehensive coverage of modern day Scotland, its people, achievements, culture, history and customs. Every issue covers a variety of topics of interest to thousands of people every month, many of them visitors to Scotland or part of the great Scottish diaspora. The digital edition incorporates audio, video and text in a single platform designed for use on Apple, Android and Windows devices. The magazine is free to subscribe to and download. For more information on how to get a copy, subscribe or enquire about advertising please contact the relevant departments. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any claim made by advertisements in Discover Scotland magazine or on the Discover Scotland website. All information should be checked with the advertisers. The content of the magazine does not necessarily represent the views of the publishers or imply any endorsement. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior agreement in writing from Discover Scotland Ltd.

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Culture - Spikin up fur Scots Photo by Alan Findlay CC BY-SA 2.0 Sign in Glen Tanar

Spikin up fur Scots

by Paul Kelbie

ast month millions of people across the globe honoured the birth of Robert Burns, an Ayrshire farmer who wrote some of the world’s most famous poetry and songs in a language unique to Scotland. Burns wrote as he spoke in the 18th century and he has been lauded for it for more than 220 years. However, modern day

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proponents of the same language are often harangued, ridiculed and attacked by those fearful of the power of a ‘guid Scots tongue’. Fife poet Len Pennie and Aberdeenshire singer Iona Fyfe are leading lights of a new generation of proud Scots speakers. They have received accolades and gathered thousands of followers from around the world who enjoy what they do.

Although still only 21-years-old Len has attracted attention from as far away as Australia after posting a poem called ‘I’m No Havin’ Children’ and a series of ‘Scots Word of the Day’ videos on social media. She is now one of the country’s most high-profile campaigners for a language spoken by more than 1.5million people. Award winning singer Iona, 22, is in increasing demand for performances around the world.

Culture - Spikin up fur Scots

Len Pennie Video link

Iona Fyfe video link

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Culture - Spikin up fur Scots

Had it not been for the Covid pandemic and international travel restrictions last year should have been her busiest yet, with tours scheduled for the US and Australia among others. An enthusiastic champion of her mother tongue she recently succeeded in encouraging the digital music streaming service Spotify to include Scots in the list of languages that songs can be categorised in. The music giant issued a public apology and promised a resolution. However, despite their popularity, both women have had to endure a campaign of personal abuse from social media trolls - mostly anonymous angry men - who appear threatened by the growing

Photo by Kenneth Allen CC BY-SA 2.0 Looking or the cludgies?

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interest in Scots. “Some of the personal attacks about my appearance and other things have been horrendous. I’ve been accused of being ignorant, uneducated and unable to speak properly,” said Iona, who graduated from university with two degrees and was a finalist in the prestigious BBC Radio Scotland Young Traditional Musician of the Year 2021. “If some of the abuse I’ve received was directed at speakers of Gaelic or other languages that have more protection it would be classed as a hate crime. “Scots speakers are not taken seriously unless they adopt a more neutral dialect and speak in a sort of ‘radio voice’. They’ve

been encouraged to self censor how they speak.” The ‘cultural cringe’ experienced by many Scots speakers is something sociology graduate and writer Colin Burnett can readily identify with. “I was in a shop recently and there was a wee girl with her mother who asked for some breed. She was immediately corrected to say bread and told off for talking like that outside the home,” said Colin, 31, whose short stories in Scots have found favour with an increasingly curious audience - especially in the US, Canada and Australia - looking to connect with their roots.

Culture - Spikin up fur Scots Colin Burnett website link

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Culture - Spikin up fur Scots

“For the last thee centuries, until quite recently, there has been a deliberate attempt to suppress our true voice. I certainly wasn’t encouraged to speak Scots at school. I have friends who won’t read my work now because it is written the way they speak - in Scots. There is a stigma that if it’s in Scots it is somehow less important or inferior to English. “In 1993 a teenager was detained in a prison cell and threatened with contempt for answering ‘Aye’ instead of ‘Yes’ to a question in Stirling Sheriff Court. That is

ridiculous!” Scots was an accepted language long before the union of parliaments in 1707. It was used in legal papers and official documents. It was the language of kings, lawyers, scholars and poets. “Robert Burns exemplifies the power of Scots. He took the language of his local environment in Ayrshire and made it global. His words still send ripples across continents and break down cultural barriers. You don’t see

It’s not so long since children could be belted at school for speaking Scots

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people in Russia, America or Japan refusing to read his work because it’s written in Scots but you will find people in Scotland like that,” said Colin. The Edinburgh-based writer is just one of a growing number of voices calling for Scots to be encouraged and taught in schools to encourage future generations to embrace rather than deny their cultural identity. Author, storyteller, musician and songwriter Susi Briggs from Dumfries and Galloway has

Culture - Spikin up fur Scots The Gruffalo is one of a number of children’s books now translated into Scots

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Culture - Spikin up fur Scots Oor Wee Podcast Link

recently launched a new podcast with Alan McClure from Aberdeen that is aimed at children. “Oor wee Podcast is full of stories and songs in a language they maybe speak themselves or hear spoken at home,” said Susi, who admits having to fight against the ‘cringe factor’ throughout her career and deal with her own share of abuse online. “I got pelters on Twitter after one of my stories written in Scots for children appeared on BBC Scotland. The sheer lack of awareness about the language, particularly among Scots, is breathtaking. They’ve been told it’s a dialect or slang but to call it that takes away its importance

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Susi Biggs Link

and our sense of identity. “We have to inspire the younger generation to enjoy it and understand it is as beautiful as any other language on this planet. A lot of primary school children, their families and teachers enjoy my work, and I’ve got a following in America where there’s a lot of interest,” said Susi. Her Scots writing career really took off about eight years ago after a publisher turned down her story, ‘The Wee Sleepy Sheepy’, because it had too much of a “Scottish flavour to it”. Instead of removing the word “wee” she rewrote it completely in Scots to much acclaim.

According to the last official census some 1,541,693 people speak Scots and anyone who claims it is only a dialect of English or slang is wrong. Scots is acknowledged as an official language by the Ethnologue (https://www. ethnologue.com/), a compendium of all 7,117 known living languages in the world. It is also recognised by the European Union’s Regional and Minorities Language Charter of which the UK Government is a signatory. “Scots has all the necessary ingredients to be called a language. It is different enough from English to be unintelligible to someone who has not been

“The problem is people have been led to believe the only variant in the British isles that can be given the label of language is standard English. “I’m Polish but I’ve been researching the history of the Scots language for about 20 years. I find it particularly puzzling, and a bit sad, that in Scotland the history of Scots is unknown.”

However, times and attitudes are changing. A new research project, ‘The Future of Scots’, aims to lay the groundwork for communitydriven language policy making and new areas of academic research.

online survey which can be found at https://scotslanguagepolicy. glasgow.ac.uk/en/welcome/

It is a collaborative research project, spearheaded by the University of Glasgow, in concert with Education Scotland and the campaign group Oor Vyce, supported by The Royal Society of Edinburgh. Members of the public are encouraged to get involved and help by taking part in a short

Link to survey

Photo by Walter Baxter CC BY-SA 2.0 A sign on the Ayrshire Coastal Path

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Culture - Spikin up fur Scots

taught it,” said Dr Joanna Kopaczyk, Senior Lecturer in Scots and English at the University of Glasgow.

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Photo by Guy Phillips

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Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William Photo by VisitScotland / Airborne Lens Above Fort William looking down the Caledonian Canal

A road less travelled to Fort William

by Scott Aitken

here can be few road trips in the world so steeped in history, mystery and spectacular scenery than the short drive between Oban and Fort William. Popular with thousands of visitors who flock to the Highlands of Scotland each year the route is less than 45 miles long and can take just over an hour to complete. However, those who rush the trip risk missing out on some of Scotland’s most beautiful locations. Leaving Oban on the A85 the

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route takes travellers through the villages of Dunbeg, which is home to both the Scottish Association for Marine Science (SAMS) - one of the primary marine science centres in the UK, and the ancient fortress of Dunstaffnage. Infused with myth and legend the ruined castle and chapel are worth stopping off and taking a few hours to explore (see page 56). After Dunbeg the road continues towards the tiny community of Connel on the shores of Loch Etive. The village is dominated by a large cantilever bridge, initially built in 1903 to carry the

Callander and Oban Railway over the Falls of Lora. Now exclusively a road bridge it carries the A828 over the narrowest part of the loch to the villages of North Connel and on to Benderloch, where there is an enjoyable walk up to the viewpoint on the summit of Beinn Lorra and a spectacular view of the surrounding area. Next stop on the route is the hamlet of Barcaldine which shares its name with nearby Barcaldine Castle, a 17th century tower house built by ‘Black’ Duncan Campbell in 1609 on the shores of Loch Creran. Complete

Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William Photo by Mike Hudson CC BY-SA 3.0 Dunbeg, Argyll and Bute

with a bottle dungeon and two hidden passageways it has a fascinating history and is now reputed to be one of the finest bed and breakfast castles in Scotland. The A828 then snakes its way around Loch Creran through the village of Creagan and Appin, a stunning landscape sandwiched between Loch Linnhe to the west, Loch Creran to the south and Benderloch and Lorne in the east. A combination of seascapes and rugged mountainous country it is part of the Lynn of Lorn National Scenic Area. Once dominated by Clan Stewart it is the site of the infamous murder of Colin Roy Campbell of Glenure on 14 May 1752 which was depicted by author Robert Louis Stevenson in his book, Kidnapped. Although James Stewart of the Glens was hanged for the

Photo by Tom Parnell CC BY-SA 4.0 Barcaldine Castle

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Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

murder there is widespread belief he was innocent and his execution remains possibly one of Scotland’s most notorious miscarriages of justice, as

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reported in issue 5. The road through Appin goes through a number of hamlets and villages to Duror at the base

of Glen Duror. There has been a settlement here for at least 5,000 years and it is thought to have been a religious meeting place for pagan Iron Age settlers. There

has played host to Celts, Scoti and Vikings. In the 14th and 15th century it was part of the lands owned by the Lord of the Isles ruled by the Clan Macdonald,

and then later taken over by Clan Campbell causing centuries of bloody feuds with the Stewarts. In the 19th century the village

Photo by Markus Trienke CC BY-SA 2.0 Loch Leven

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Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

are numerous ancient stones and relics in the area which reveal a mysterious past that today visitors can only imagine. Throughout the centuries Duror

Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William became the first place in Scotland to have a church built by Thomas Telford. The renowned Scottish civil engineer,

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architect and stonemason is probably more famous as a road, bridge and canal builder but he

was commissioned to construct a total of 37 places of worship across the country, starting at Duror.

Not far from the village lies Cuil Bay, a pebble beach with wonderful views which is well

worth the walk, while further along the A828 there’s a vantage point overlooking the majestic

15th century Castle Stalker. After Duror the road heads to Ballachulish and the bridge which

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Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland Castle Stalker on the waters of Loch Linnhe

Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

crosses the narrows at the head of Loch Leven, where there is a monument to James

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As the road continues towards

Photo by Markus Trienke CC BY-SA 2.0 Ballachulish, Loch Leven

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Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

of the Glen who was hanged on this spot for the Appin Murder.

Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

Fort William it passes by the Corran Narrows, where you can still catch a ferry across Loch

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Linnhe and follow part of the same route that cattle drovers from the Hebrides used to take

Finally, Fort William, the second largest settlement in the Highlands, lies just a little further

Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Corran (Ardgour) Ferry Crossing, Loch Linnhe near Fort William

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Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William

their beasts to market in central Scotland.

Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William along the A82 from the narrows. Now a major tourist destination it is framed by Glen Coe to the south, Ben Nevis to the east and Glenfinnan to the west. Famed for

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its hillwalking, climbing, mountain biking, skiing and watersports it is considered the outdoor capital of Scotland.

built in 1654 by Oliver Cromwell to pacify the Highlands in general, and Clan cameron in particular, following the civil war.

Initially it was the site of a fort

The settlement didn’t get its

Travel - A road less travelled to Fort William Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Looking Over Loch Linnhe to Fort William

current name of Fort William until troops loyal to William of Orange, who took the throne from King James VII in 1689, were stationed there to keep a lid on the Jacobite clans.

Today, the area is an ideal base from which to explore the Highlands. The overnight sleeper train from London Euston goes direct to the town while the Caledonian Canal connects the

east coast at Inverness with the west coast at Corpach near Fort William.

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Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations Photo by VisitScotland Diana Gabaldon at Culross

Six of the best Outlander locations make Scotland a more popular destination than ever, as well as providing a welcome boost to the country’s creative industries.

by Tracey Macintosh

he hugely successful Outlander books and subsequent television show have helped

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Diana Gabaldon’s novels following the story of time traveller Claire and Highlander Jamie, are set mainly in the 18th century. Much of the five television series’ are set in Scotland and the filming of Outlander has shone a spotlight on some of the country’s many beautiful places and historic buildings. With filming due to start later this

year on the sixth series, here’s a recap of some of the settings around Scotland which show off some of the stunning locations visitors can explore.

Doune Castle No stranger to the screen, Doune Castle has featured previously in Ivanhoe, Outlaw King, Game of Thrones and perhaps most famously, Monthy Python and the Holy Grail. Originally built in the 13th century, then rebuilt in the 14th century following extensive damage

Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations Photo by Neil Aitkenhead CC BY-SA 3.0 Doune Castle

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Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations Photo by Robert Breuer CC BY-SA 3.0 Stirling with Wallace Monument

during the Wars of Independence, Doune Castle features as Castle Leoch, seat of Clan Mackenzie in Series 1 of Outlander. Castle Leoch is home to Colum MacKenzie, a relative of Jamie’s and an influential character in this series. Gabaldon based Castle Leoch on Castle Leod, the seat of the Mackenzie Clan in Strathpeffer, however Doune Castle in Central Scotland, situated just outside Stirling, worked logistically as well as artistically as one of the key settings for the first Outlander series. With a long history including the remains of a Roman Fort nearby, Doune Castle was rebuilt under Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany who acquired the Castle in 1361. Albany is often referred to as Scotland’s ‘uncrowned King’, having governed Scotland for the majority of years from 1386 until

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his death in 1420. Doune Castle, built to reflect Albany’s wealth and status as a younger brother of King Robert III, must have been hugely impressive in its prime with a large Great Hall for feasting and entertaining complete with Minstrel’s Gallery, double fireplace and central hearth. Still impressive today, the Castle has a sizeable central courtyard as well as an extensive kitchen area that hints at an even larger one in bygone times. When James VI moved to London in 1603 to become James I of England, many of Scotland’s Royal residences became redundant and Doune Castle was among these. Today it is a thriving visitor attraction managed by Historic Environment Scotland which has seen visitor numbers increase massively since Outlander has come to our TV

screens.

Stirling University Campus Situated between the Victorian spa village of Bridge of Allan and the city of Stirling, The University of Stirling is based in a beautifully rural campus that has a resort feel to it. Complete with a small golf course, two lochs where fishing and canoeing are on offer, an Olympic sized swimming pool and an on-site hotel and log cabins as well as student accommodation that doubles as great value holiday accommodation outwith term time, the campus is also close to the Ochil Hills and is overlooked by both Stirling Castle and the National Wallace Monument. The University Campus features in Series 1 where the rural location is used perfectly as a village backdrop showing Dumyat beautifully in the background.

Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations Photo by Bewahrerderwerte CC BY-SA 4.0 Callendar House

The Campus features again in Season 2. One of the University’s buildings, the Pathfoot, features as Inverness College in the 1970s. The Pathfoot was in fact the first of the University’s buildings to be completed in 1967 and is now a listed building. In Series 4, the Campus appears once again. This time the walkway between two of the buildings was filmed as the walkway at Boston Airport. With woodland, lochs and its own small Airthrey Castle (a maternity hospital for a number of years so many of the locals can say they were born in a Castle!) the University Campus may well show up again in future Outlander episodes.

Callendar House The stunning Renaissance French Chateau styled Callendar House

in the grounds of Callendar Park in Falkirk has a long and illustrious history. Beginning as a tower house in the fourteenth century, Callendar House was built close to the remains of the Antonine Wall and was home to the Livingston family who had been granted the lands by King David II in 1345. The family were well connected. Sir Alexander Livingston was Regent in the 1440s until James II was old enough to reign himself, then Alexander, 5th Lord Livingston, was guardian of Mary Queen of Scots during her childhood. Mary Queen of Scots and the Dauphin of France’s marriage arrangement was signed at Callendar House and Mary and her second husband Darnley, are known to have visited Callendar House. Bonnie Prince Charlie was also

a guest at Callendar House and the Livingston family were known Jacobite supporters. Following the defeat of the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden, Lady Anne Livingston’s husband was beheaded for treason. Today the house is in the hands of Falkirk Community Trust and is open to visitors with a wide range of exhibitions on the history of the area as well as the house itself. The Georgian kitchen has been beautifully restored and costumed interpreters are often on hand to tell tales of the house’s occupants and to offer guests samples of 19th century food to try. The kitchen features in Series 2 of Outlander where it is filmed as the kitchen of the Duke of Sandringham’s home, Belhurst Manor. Without giving anything away this episode is entitled ‘Vengeance is Mine’ and the kitchen is the setting for the

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Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations

pivotal scene of the episode.

Falkland The pretty Fife town of Falkland with its cobbles and quaint streets were used to depict Inverness in Series 1 and 2, and again in Series 4.

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In Series 1, 1940s Inverness is actually Falkland and the Bed and Breakfast in the main street that Claire stays in with her husband is in real life the Covenanter Hotel. The Hotel is said to be named in honour of local Covenanter, Reverend Richard Cameron.

Series 2 returns to Falkland, which is the setting for Inverness in 1746. A number of the village’s streets, buildings and shops appear in Series 2 having had a bit of an 18th century makeover for filming! Falkland Palace, an elegant, renaissance Royal Palace much loved by the Stewart

monarchs, also features briefly in Series 2 of Outlander as an apothecary Claire visits. Series 4 again shows County Record Falkland as Inverness, this time in the 1970s when the village’s Town Hall features as the Inverness Office.

Photo by Glen Bowman CC BY 2.0 Falkland Palace

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Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations

The Bruce fountain in Falkland’s High Street features in the first episode of Outlander when Jamie’s ghost is seen there by Claire and her husband. The fountain, a neo-gothic structure, was donated to the town by the local Laird, Tyndall Bruce in 1856.

Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations

Culross Another pretty Fife town, Culross, has been used in a number of Outlander episodes and appears in Series 1, 2 and 4.

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A small coastal town in south west Fife on the Firth of Forth, Culross is said to have been founded by Saint Serf during the 6th century and was the birthplace of Saint Mungo who went on to become the Patron Saint of Glasgow.

Culross is the setting for the fictional village of Cranesmuir in Series 1 of Outlander. Its traditional Mercat Cross, cobbled streets and quaint buildings worked well as an eighteenth century village and feature heavily throughout Series 1.

painstakingly restored the garden that is now complete with the herbs, vegetables and fruit trees consistent with early 17th century Scotland. Different rooms in the palace were used throughout seasons 1,

2 and 4 of Outlander, however the garden is perhaps the most easily recognised setting as Castle Leoch’s herb garden where Claire spends some time in Series 1 and first encounters the mysterious Geillis Duncan.

Photo Palickap CC BY-SA 4.0 Culross

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Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations

A number of buildings in the town also appear in Outlander, including Culross Palace, a merchant’s house completed sometime in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. The Palace is now in the care of the National Trust for Scotland who

Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations

Drummond Castle Gardens Drummond Castle Gardens in Perthshire feature in Series 2 of Outlander as the Gardens of Versailles. These elegant, terraced gardens were first laid out in the early

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17th century, then were extensively renovated along with the castle in the 19th century. Today Drummond Castle Gardens are among the finest formal gardens in Europe and also appeared in the 1995 film version of Rob Roy starring Liam Neeson and Jessica Lange.

Drummond Castle was originally a tower house built in the late 15th century. The Drummond family continued to add to the castle over the years with the first terraced gardens being laid out in the 1630s. The Castle and Gardens

defeat in 1746 the head of the Drummond family was exiled to France. The Drummond family bought back the castle in 1784 and it was renovated extensively over the next few decades. The castle hosted Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1842 and Queen Victoria is said to have described

the gardens as ‘very fine, with terraces, like an old French garden’. The castle is not open to visitors however the gardens are normally open to the public for part of the year.

Photo by VisitScotland Drummond Castle and gardens

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Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations

survived a tumultuous period of history, being ransacked by Oliver Cromwell’s army in the 17th century and taken out of the hands of the Drummond family in the 18th century. The Drummond family supported the Jacobite rebellions of 1715 and 1745. Following the Jacobite

Travel - Six of the best Outlander locations Photo by Andrew Shiva CC BY-SA 4.0 Stirling Airthrey Castle

Outlander includes many other stunning Scottish landmarks and treasured historic sites and Series 6 will doubtless not disappoint in showcasing Scotland once again. ‘Droughtlander’ will soon be over but in the mean time enjoy a wander around some of Outlander’s iconic sites when you can – a great reminder to appreciate Scotland’s beautiful landscapes and impressive built heritage.

Photo by Andrew Shiva CC BY-SA 4.0 Doune Castle

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Photo by Kim Traynor CC BY-SA 3.0 Falkland, Fife

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Travel - Visit Inverness and Loch Ness with…Jo de Sylva

Highland hospitality

with... Jo de Sylva,

Chair of Visit Inverness Loch Ness

Tripping the light fantastic

Photo by Jo de Sylva

by Jo de Sylva

he Highlands of Scotland must be one of the most stunning and beautiful places in the world, and

while most of the world has been in lockdown we’re lucky to have mountains, waterfalls, valleys and steams for our daily walks. Travel limitations mean we have

taken much more time to explore what is on our doorstep and the chance encounters with Highland cows, otters, birds of prey and deer have made us all appreciate the wonder of nature around us.

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Travel - Visit Inverness and Loch Ness with…Jo de Sylva On those down days we’ve all had, being in nature and watching the seasons change no matter what is going on around us, has a great grounding effect,

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and is why when black dogs appear, getting outside, for me, is one of the best remedies. A few weeks ago we had the

fortune to see an amazing display in the skies above the Highlands. In the Gaelic language, known as Na Fir Chlis, or the merry dancers, the Aurora Borealis

graced us with her presence for many hours before midnight on a very cold, snowy night in January. Pictures can never do justice

to the enormity of the display of green, yellow and red, where the sky seemed to dance above us, wavering through the colour spectrum with energy that filled

the darkness with breathtaking beauty, till just before midnight, when she decided it was time to leave and she slowly faded away with a gentle sigh.

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Travel - Visit Inverness and Loch Ness with…Jo de Sylva

Photo by Martin Sibbe Aurora Borealis

Travel - Visit Inverness and Loch Ness with…Jo de Sylva

Jo de Sylva, Fiona Hyslop and Bruce MacGregor at MacGregor’s Bar, Inverness

The beauty of the Highlands, the scenery, the people, and the bountiful larder on our doorstep means this is a place on the wish list of most people with a love of

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Scotland. So, while at the moment, we can’t welcome visitors to the Highlands, the beauty of what we

have on offer will be waiting for you when the time comes, and we can welcome you back into our fold with warm hearts, log fires and bottles of temptation.

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History - Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle Photo by PaulT Gunther Tschuch CC BY-SA 4.0 Dunstaffnage Castle

Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle

by Paul Watson

ituated around three miles outside of Oban lies the remains of one of Scotland’s oldest and most formidable stone castles, dating back to the 13th century. Dunstaffnage Castle and Chapel, on the outskirts of the village of Dunbeg, sits on a raised rocky outcrop at the mouth of Loch Etive. It is surrounded on three sides by the sea and provides commanding views across the Firth of Lorn, the Sound of Mull

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and the approach to the Great Glen. It has always been a major strategic location for anyone looking to control a key route from Argyll into the heart of Scotland - and that’s precisely why the McDougalls built it. For most of the 13th century they were the most powerful clan in Argyll. Initially constructed as a simple quadrangular structure, with thick high walls and few openings to provide ideal security

and defence, the castle has been altered and expanded considerably over the centuries. Throughout the ages Dunstaffnage and surrounding area has played an important role in Scottish history. Even before foundations of the current castle were laid there is believed to have been a fort on the site. It was here that the Stone of Destiny, carried to Scotland by Scota - a daughter of an Egyptian Pharaoh, is to have been kept until it was moved to Scone by King Kenneth MacAlpin in the 9th century.

History - Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle Photo by Guillaume Piolle CC BY 3.0 Dunstaffnage Castle

In the 14th century the MacDougalls were supporters of the Balliol claim to the Scottish throne, a decision which put them on a collision course with Robert The Bruce. During the Wars of Independence Bruce defeated Clan MacDougall at the Battle of the Pass of Brander in 1308 and took control of Dunstaffnage. The King gave control of the castle to the Campbells. They held on to it for a number of years before John of Lorn, head of the MacDougalls, was granted back the lands by King David II in 1358. However, sometime around 1470 the castle passed into the hands of the 1st Earl of Argyll and once again became an important stronghold for Clan Campbell who owned and operated a string of similar fortifications across the region. As a military garrison the castle played a significant role in the

Photo by Guillaume Piolle CC BY 3.0 Castle gate

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History - Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle

Photo: Sothebys PD-Art Dunstaffnage 1862 by Ansdell

civil wars of the 17th century when, between 1644 and 1647, it was a major military arsenal and supply base. It was besieged

Photo by Lygeri CC BY-SA 4.0 Dunstaffnage Castle

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by Montrose’s army in 1644 and used as a garrison for Cromwell’s troops from 1652 to 1660.

In 1685 the castle was set on fire by royalist troops during Argyll’s Rising in 1685 against the Catholic James VII and during

the Jacobite risings of 1715 and 1745 it was occupied by Hanoverian troops sent to pacify the Highlands.

The castle was even used as a jail for political prisoners, including the legendary heroine Flora MacDonald. She was detained

there briefly on the way to London for questioning over her part in helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape the country, disguised as

Photo by Hartlepoolmarina CC BY-SA 3.0 View from the wall walk

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History - Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle

Photo by Michael Garlick CC BY-SA 4.0 Castel gatehouse

History - Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle her maid Betty Burke, following the Jacobite defeat at Culloden.

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Now partially ruined the castle and nearby chapel are classed as Scheduled Ancient Monuments and have been in the care of

Historic Scotland since 1958. Each year thousands of visitors make the journey to

History - Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle Photo by Guillaume Piolle CC BY 3.0 Dunstaffnage chapel

Dunstaffnage. Some go for the scenery and others for the history but a small number are more interested in the ghost.

Known as “Ell-maid of Dunstaffnage”, she is described as a heavy footed lady dressed in green whose appearances are

said to herald either tidings of great joy or sadness.

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History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine

Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

Photo by Andy Dingley CC BY-SA 3.0 La Normandie, Dinky Toys

New love for old

by Roo Irvine

he last few months have been life changing in many ways. Each of us has had to find ways of coping with a situation few people ever imagined. There has been stress, uncertainty and hardship for many while others have used the pause on everyday life to review and revaluate expectations, obligations and responsibilities. New hobbies and old passions

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have emerged, and there’s never been a better time to, literally, wipe the dust from relics of the past and start collecting for the future.

While previous generations may have seen polishing the silver as a tedious chore I recently spent three satisfying days turning charity-shop, dirty silver-plate into gleaming mementoes of the past, ready to hit the global online marketplace. It took me back to a time of fine dining and genteel entertaining

when grape scissors, snail forks, bone marrow scoops and sugar nips were more than just decorative. Most of us open our cutlery drawer and only have to choose between a knife, fork, and spoon. In the search for more convenience we have perhaps over simplified our home comforts. Where’s the elegance? Every antique dealer is regularly approached with boxes of ‘stuff’. It’s easy to dismiss brass, silverplate, crystal, figurines and china as low value but treasures can be found, especially if the quality is

History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Photo MET CC0 1.0 Gold and platinum Irish snuffbox 1795

Photo by Ulrich Mayring Fazzoletto (handkerchief) Vase, design by Fulvio Bianconi, produced by Venini, 1949

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History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Photo by Joe Haupt CC BY-SA 2.0 Vintage miniature perfume bottle and funnel by Tompadouc, made in Austria

Photo U.S. National Archives and Records Administration US recruitment WWII poster

sterling silver or furniture they own, and not just because of their beauty or financial worth. The true value of these items often lies in the story that accompanies them. Many are known to have come from ‘this castle’ or that wealthy ‘estate’ and were gifted to, or acquired by, a distant relative from a previous generation.

Photo Metropolitan Museum of Art CC0 1.0 Gold and platinum French snuffbox 1766

there. Everything was desirable and coveted once. Scotland is renowned for many things - our stunning scenery, rich history and fascinating heritage.

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Items once treasured by our forefathers have been passed down through the ages. I have customers and friends who are delighted by the paintings,

It was the Victorians who saw the beauty in almost everything and invented the art of collecting, but now there is a new generation of hobbyists fascinated by the past. Whether it is miniature perfume bottles, wartime memorabilia, handkerchief vases, Georgian glassware or 300-year-old snuffboxes there is demand. So much extra time on our hands over the last year has provided the opportunity for many of us to indulge our passions as we search online for bits, bobs and bargains. One person’s ‘junk’ is another’s treasure.

History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Photo by https///wellcomecollection.org/works/kddfspde CC-BY-4.0 Snuffbox in the form of a ram’s head, Edinburgh, Scotland, 1881-1882

Photo by Andy Dingley CC BY-SA 3.0 Dinky Toy model aircraft, showing the two box styles in use in the 1930s.

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History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Photo by Riley CC BY 2.0 Matchbox Superfast-9 AMX Javelin

Technology has made antique hunting easier in so many ways. We are spoilt for choice and we don’t even need to leave the house. Amazon made $11,000 a second during lockdown and, although you won’t find antiques there, it shows the appetite there is for retail therapy. Why not channel that desire into buying investments for the future, as opposed to another set of dumbbells when you already have four in the garage? Collecting is fun and it doesn’t discriminate. Anyone can do it. Profit is Profit.

Photo by GLAP59730204 CC BY-SA 3.0 544 SIMCA Aronde

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Whether it is childhood toy cars, such as Dinky and Matchbox, or an old Nintendo game - like the one found in a childhood cupboard which sold for $9,000 there are treasures everywhere. Do you like vintage wine? In

History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Photo by Evan-Amos PD An original Nintendo Game Boy 1989

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History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Cognac gautier freres leonetto cappiello

2020 a bottle of Gautier Cognac, found in a family cellar sold for $144,525. It was 260 years old! How about old art works? A French lady who spent years looking at a painting hanging

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above the kitchen hotplate was amazed to discover it was a 13th century Italian artwork. It sold for $26.8million! Every decade has value. An Englishwoman who bought three

wine glasses from a car-boot sale for 40p each was delighted to discover they were actually superrare 18th century Beilby glass. She sold them for £18,880 - not a bad return on a £1.20 investment.

History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Beilby Goblet circa 1770 in the collection of the Minneapolis Institute of Art

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History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine Photo by MGM Records/Verve The Velvet Underground circa 1966

Similarly, in 2002, when Warren Hill bought a vinyl disc from a flea market for 85p he had no idea of its worth. It had ‘The Velvet Underground’ written on it and turned out to be a rare demo record which sold for just under £25,000.

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One of the most wonderful Scottish examples is the nowfamous Lewis Chessman. An Edinburgh antiques dealer owned this strange but powerful looking chess piece for 55 years. His grandfather bought the piece in 1964 for £5.

Although much cherished by the family they had no idea of its value. The 12th century piece, carved from walrus ivory and standing just 3.5inches tall, sold in 2019 for £735,000 to a private buyer.

Incredibly four pieces of the chess set are still missing and waiting to be found, alongside

a myriad of other treasures that are valuable both financially and sentimentally. A windfall awaits

for some lucky person. Happy hunting!

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History - Hunting antiques with... Roo Irvine

Photo by Christian Bickel CC BY-SA 2.0 DE Lewis chessmen from the Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh

History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne Photo by Toby001 CC BY-SA 3.0 Auld Lang Syne

Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne

by Scott Aitken

uld Lang Syne is a poem synonymous with Scotland’s national bard, Robert Burns, which has become an anthem for friendship and new beginnings sung around the world, especially at New Year.

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But surprisingly the way we know it today is thanks to his second song editor, George Thomson, and not to the bard himself. Now the relationship between Burns and Thomson is receiving its first detailed scrutiny by academics at the University of

Glasgow’s Centre for Robert Burns Studies. The first mention that Burns makes of the song appears in a letter sent to Mrs Dunlop on the 7 December 1788, where he asks her, ‘is not the Scotch phrase ‘Auld lang syne’ exceedingly

History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne

Robert Burns

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History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne

Iona Fyfe singing Auld Lang Syne

Video QR Code

expressive?’ As an avid collector of traditional Scots music and song, Burns noted that both the old song and the tune ‘thrilled thro’ my soul’. In fourth volume of The Oxford Edition of the Works of Robert Burns, due to be published this month, Professor Kirsteen McCue has looked at Burns’ songs for George Thomson. “Burns’ relationship with his second song editor, Thomson, was a stormy one, and Thomson is seen as a ‘bad boy’ in the Burns story,” said Professor McCue, who is Professor of Scottish Literature and Song Culture and Co -Director of the Centre for Robert Burns Studies at the University of Glasgow.

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George Thomson, music publisher

History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne Auld Lang Syne manuscript digitised by the Library of Congress

“Thomson is accused of changing Burns’ texts and choosing different tunes for Burns’ songs, after the poet’s death in 1796 and of making lots of money from the proceeds, after having failed to

pay Burns for all his work. Burns, in fact, often mixed and matched songs and tunes himself and he forcefully refused to accept payment from Thomson. But the battle against Thomson has raged

to this day.” But Professor McCue, a talented singer in her own right, states that it was thanks to Thomson’s combining the Auld Lang Syne

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History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne text with a different tune that we have ended up with the version known around the world today.

thought of specific songs and tunes and even tell us how he wrote a song.

It’s also the first time, since their original publications, that the songs Burns produced for Thomson have been presented as they were seen by Thomson’s readership in the 18th century. The new volume also has detailed notes and commentary so that we can see this creative collaboration in all its detail.

They explain a great deal about why Burns’ passion for songs was so important to his artistic work, and why they took up so much of his time, especially when farming at Ellisland and then in Dumfries where he worked for the Excise in the final years of his alltoo-short life.

The letters between the poet and Thomson reveal to us what Burns

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“In 1799, just three years after Burns’ death, Thomson combined the text of ‘Auld Lang Syne’ that

Burns sent to him with a different tune,” said Professor McCue. “He was inspired by Burns’s discussion of the song to seek a new tune, and the one he chose has ended up being the one we all now sing as the global song of parting.” Thomson (1757-1851) was an Edinburgh civil servant who was to be one of Burns’ major correspondents across the last four years of his life. As Burns died so soon into the

History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne St Andrew’s Society of Mexico singing Auld Lang Syne as featured in issue 46

project, Thomson was left to publish most of his Burns songs posthumously. In the 1800s Thomson would be the editor who then married Burns’ lyrics with musical settings by several of the most influential European composers of the day, including Joseph Haydn and Ludwig van Beethoven.

Illustration to Robert Burns’ poem Auld Lang Syne by J.M. Wright and Edward Scriven

He would also be a central figure in the memorialisation of Burns in the early decades of the 19th century – helping in the erection of the Edinburgh Statue, and

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History - Exploring the origins of Auld Lang Syne

Photo: CC-BY-4.0 European Union 2020 – Source/ EP Members of the EU parliament sang Auld Lang Syne after the debate and vote on the EU-UK withdrawal agreement.

aiding in the preparation of James Currie’s first major edition of the poet’s life and works, alongside appearing at several important early Burns suppers. “Burns would most probably have approved of this new tune for

‘Auld Lang Syne’ as it was very similar to a tune for another of his songs ‘O can ye labour lea’,” added Professor McCue. “It’s strange to think that Burns knew the tune, but that he never heard it with his text for ‘Auld

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Lang Syne’, which was published in The Scots Musical Museum, when Burns was still alive, with a more reflective tune that has become much more popular in recent years.”

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Sounds of Scotland - Musical Discoveries... with Tom Morton

Story behind the song…

Cod Liver Oil and the Orange Juice

by Scott Aitken

currilous, irreverent and hilarious are all words used to describe the hit song ‘Cod Liver Oil and the Orange Juice’ performed by renowned Scottish folk singer Hamish Imlach in this month’s edition of Musical Discoveries. It was written by Ron Clark and Carl MacDougall early one

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Friday morning in the 1960s, as they sat in George Square in the centre of Glasgow, after a night out in Paisley. It was intended as humorous antithesis to the more spiritual “Virgin Mary Had a Little Baby”, a hugely popular American gospel classic played during almost every folk club performance throughout the west of Scotland at the time. The song, which gets its name

Listen here

Sounds of Scotland - Musical Discoveries... with Tom Morton

with Tom Morton

#world #folk #scottish

Music to accompany reading Discover Scotland, the world’s only free online magazine dealing with Scotland all things Scottish. www.discoverscotlandmagazine.com 1) Teenage Fanclub - I’m More Inclined 2) Trashcan Sinatras - Ain’t That Something 3) Hamish Imlach - Cod Liver Oil and the Orange Juice 4) Edwyn Collins - Outside 5) Archie Fisher - Reynardine 6) Simple Minds - Someone Somewhere in Summertime 7) The Humbelbums - Close Your Eyes 8) The Humbebums - Song for Simon 9) Kate Morvern Reid - the Flower of Fochabers 10) Old Blind Dogs - Johnnie O’Braidislee 11) Belle and Sebastian - The Blues are Still Blue

with Tom Morton

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Sounds of Scotland - Musical Discoveries... with Tom Morton

Photo by Finlay McWalter CC BY-SA 3.0 The Barrowland ballroom was a favourite dance hall like many others in Glasgow

The lad tries chatting her up: “Mary, are ye dancin’?” but is told it’s just the way she’s “stannin’” (standing). Unperturbed our hero tells her she’s one in a million and Mary replies “so’s yer chances”. However, never one to give up he offers to run her home - “ ah’ve got a pair o’ sandshoes (cheap trainers), and gets to take her back to the tenement flat she shares with her family. They sneak into the “the dunny” (covered passage area of the tenement flat where she lives) only to be disturbed when Mary’s mother goes to the “cludgie” (shared toilet). from the fish oil and concentrated orange juice which used to be given free to expectant mothers, replaces the Virgin Mary with Hairy Mary from the Gorbals and the three Kings with “a hard man, a’ the way frae Brigton”, east of Glasgow.

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Full of in jokes and Scots words it tells the tale of a likely lad on a night out, getting drunk on VP (a cheap fortified wine) and cider before going to a dance at the Dennistoun Palais looking for a lumber (date) where he meets Mary.

The song ends with the young man running off to join the Foreign Legion leaving behind a pregnant Mary who has a baby. Hamish’s version of the song was a big hit with Scottish audiences but, for those not accustomed to the local banter, there were fears

In addition to upsetting Butlins the song got banned by the BBC

who refused to play it on the radio for fear of upsetting families and the church. The only station that wasn’t covered by the ban was the British Forces Radio where, during the late 1960s and 1970s, it was the most requested song among the troops.

Hamish Imlach, who died in 1996, was a big influence on other artists, namely John Martyn, Christy Moore and Billy Connolly who, as part of The Humblebums, also appears in this month’s show presented by Tom Morton.

University of Texas at Arlington Photograph Collection CC BY 4.0

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Sounds of Scotland - Musical Discoveries... with Tom Morton

it was full of innuendo which led to Hamish being sacked from a job at a Butlins holiday camp. His English bosses couldn’t understand the words and thought it was obscene.

Sounds of Scotland - Musical Discoveries... with Tom Morton

Other tracks included in the latest edition of Musical Discoveries include performances from Teenage Fanclub, Trashcan Sinatras, Edwyn Collins, Archie Fisher, Simple Minds, Kate Morvern Reid, Old Blind Dogs and Belle and Sebastian. You can listen to this show and all previous episodes for free on the radio page of DiscoverScotlandmagazine.com

Photo by Vincent Barker CC BY-SA 3.0 Simple Minds

Photo by Michig CC BY-SA 3.0 Teenage Fanclub

Photo by Chris Williams CC BY-SA 3.0 Trashcan Sinatras

Photo by Robert Wetzlmayr CC BY-SA 4.0 Edwyn Collins Photo Ruth Clark (Bestest) CC BY-SA 2.5 Belle and Sebastian

Photo by Ralf Schulze (rs-foto.de) CC BY-SA 3.0 Old Blind Dogs

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Competition - Win a laugh or two and get a little winter cheer

Win a laugh or two and get a little winter cheer

Your chance to get a free copy of the DVDs ‘Billy Connolly’s Great American Trail’ and ‘Frankie Boyle’s Tour of Scotland’. This month we are giving away two copies each of the entertaining documentaries Billy Connolly’s Great American Trail and Frankie Boyle’s Tour of Scotland from Dazzler Media. As revealed in the December issue of Discover Scotland magazine both series showcase two of Scotland’s best known comedians as they take a wry look at the world around them. Billy Connolly’s Great American Trail is an epic three part travelogue that sees the comedy legend going far off the beaten track into the places you’ve heard of but have rarely seen, as he follows the migratory trail of the Scots through America. In a journey spanning several centuries and more than 3,000 miles, from Salem, Massachusetts to Nashville, Tennessee, he follows in the footsteps of the thousands of Scots who emigrated to the USA. Also up for grabs in our exclusive competition is ‘Frankie Boyle’s Tour of Scotland’, in which the comic embarks on an entertaining and revealing journey of his homeland. Follow Frankie as he sets out on a stand-up tour of Scotland involving four trips to four gigs during which he meets a heady mix of people and visits places along the way. He takes viewers on an adventure across Scotland and meeting

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up with some interesting personalities along the way, including celebrated crime writer Val McDermid with whom he discusses the growing popularity of Scottish crime fiction. He also has a chat with actress and comedian Elaine C Smith in Ayr and learns about battle tactics from weaponry expert John Lyons during a trip to Bannockburn. To enter the competition to win a free copy of each of the DVDs, released by Dazzler Media, just email us with the correct answer to this question: Billy Connolly and Frankie Boyle were born in the same Scottish city. Which city was it? A) Aberdeen B) Dundee C) Glasgow

Send your answer to us at competition@ discoverscotlandmagazine.com by midnight on 28 February 2020 for a chance to win copies of the DVDs. CONGRATULATIONS to last month’s winner - Iain Hynd from Fife Terms and conditions: 1. Closing date for entries is midnight 28 January 2021 after which a winner will be randomly selected and notified by email shortly thereafter. 2. The random selection of the winner is final and no correspondence will be entered into. 3. The winner will be notified by email and asked to provide a postal address of where to send the prize. If there is no response within 14 days of the winner being notified the prize will be forfeited and a new winner will be picked at random. 4. In entering the competition the winner gives permission for Discover Scotland magazine to publish their name in the next available issue of the magazine and on social media to announce the winner. 5. No cash alternative is available in exchange for the prize(s). 6. By entering the competition you are agreeing to receive email communications from Discover Scotland magazine. 7. Discover Scotland Ltd, publishers of the magazine, reserve the right to disqualify any entry not in accordance with these terms and conditions 8. Discover Scotland magazine reserves the right to change the rules or withdraw the competition at any time.

Competition - Win a laugh or two and get a little winter cheer

Billy Connolly’s Video QR Code

Frankie Boyle’s Video QR Code

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Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer Photos from Kirkcaldy Art Gallery Royan

Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer W by Helen Lloyd

ith their vibrant paintwork and luminous settings they are the perfect pick-me-up for the dark days of winter and these travel-restricted times. Now seems the perfect moment to gaze wistfully at far-flung, colourful places – the Hebrides, the Cote d’Azur – tantalisingly out of reach for now, but beautifully captured by one of Scotland’s best-loved artists. A virtual exhibition to mark the 150th anniversary of the birth of

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Samuel Peploe, who was born on 27 January 1871, has ben launched online featuring work from the collection managed by OnFife (Fife Cultural Trust).

With 46 of the artist’s paintings, Kirkcaldy Art Gallery has the biggest group of Peploes outside National Galleries Scotland – thanks, principally, to the superb collection of Kirkcaldy linen manufacturer J W Blyth. A significant part of the Blyth Collection was bought by Kirkcaldy Town Council in the 1963.

Kirkcaldy Gallery is currently closed, but OnFife has created a virtual exhibition on the national Art UK website featuring front-ofhouse gallery staff talking about their favourite Peploe paintings in the collection and the artist’s enduring appeal. Although Peploe’s work has reached as much as £820,000 at auction, and his pictures adorn our national institutions, prints of his paintings brighten the walls of countless homes the length and breadth of the country. The artist – part of a group of

Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer Lilies

painters known as the Scottish Colourists – would have derived quiet satisfaction from this timely celebration of his work, as people long for brighter times. Peploe once wrote in a letter to his wife, Margaret: “Coming out

of my studio today at two, what a freshness in the air … a real feeling of spring. What is there like these first days of spring? The freshness after the rain, the huge mountain clouds, the feeling of life.”

Someone who has lived with the paintings all his life is the artist’s grandson, Guy Peploe, who is a director at The Scottish Gallery in Edinburgh. Although he was born many years after Samuel Peploe’s

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Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer death, Guy was acutely aware of his grandfather’s achievements growing up. “By all accounts, Peploe was a very private, shy family man so to have known him as a grandson would have been very special. This said, all artists have to have a steely core of self-belief, just to be able to face the studio every day,” he said. “Kirkcaldy has a wonderful

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holding of his work and my favourite is Palm Trees, Antibes. What better an image to contemplate in the current dark days of winter and restriction? It emanates heat, light –a different place and time, sure – but also the sense of possibility and beauty in prospect.” Exhibition curator Lesley Lettice says the display offers inspiration in the present circumstances.

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Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer

Plage Scene

Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer Flowers & fruit with Japanese background

“We are all living under tight travel restrictions and are probably walking the same few routes

Ben More from Iona

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for our daily exercise, seeing the same views and landmarks and perhaps feeling a bit

Sea Piece, Barra

underwhelmed by the familiar,” said Lesley.

Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer

Samuel Peploe self portrait

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Arts - Feast for the eyes is a winter warmer Palm Trees, Antibes

“Peploe often painted the same landscape over and over again, from different angles, at different times of day. Those

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small changes in colour, light and composition never failed to delight him. His work can inspire us take pleasure in the little things

and try to look at them with new eyes each day.”

The exhibition can be viewed at http://bit.ly/2NmbIYd

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Food & Beverage - A taste of Scotland, Chef in a Kilt with….Gordon Howe

Chef in a kilt

with….Gordon Howe

Real men do eat quiche!

lmost 40 years ago American author Bruce Feirstein wrote a tonguein-cheek book poking fun at masculine stereotypes entitled ‘Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche’.

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It was a world-wide hit, selling more than 1.6 million copies as it dominated the top of The New York Times Best Seller list for 55 weeks. The title alluded to the supposed misconception that quiche was a “feminine” food,

thereby discouraging some men from trying this delicious dish that was created in Germany and enhanced in France. Haggis, on the other hand, has often been seen as the food of

Food & Beverage - A taste of Scotland, Chef in a Kilt with….Gordon Howe

rugged Highland warriors and hardy cattle drovers. Like roast beef or steak pie Scotland’s national delicacy of haggis, neeps and tatties is often perceived as a masculine dish. Now, using the three most famous ingredients of our national favourite - haggis, tatties and neeps, combined with free range duck eggs and cheddar cheese, served with a delicious side salad of oven roasted vine tomatoes and asparagus tossed in St Andrews Gin, I’ve created a recipe for success that appeals to everyone.

Haggis, Tatties and Neeps Quiche Ingredients To make the pastry: 175g/6oz plain flour plus extra for dusting 75g/2¾oz unsalted butter plus a

little extra for greasing baking tin good pinch of Sea Salt

Quiche filling: 250g/9oz grated Scottish Cheddar 200g/7oz Quality Haggis in small chunks 4 free-range beaten Duck eggs

60g of small cubed cooked turnip (neeps) 100g of Finest Haggis broken in small chunks 60g of chopped boiled new peeled potatoes (tatties) 100ml of whole milk 100ml of double bream Good pinch of Sea Salt Good pinch of black pepper

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Food & Beverage - A taste of Scotland, Chef in a Kilt with….Gordon Howe Side Salad:

A Caboc Cheese

I small vine of cherry tomatoes I small bunch of Asparagus 60ml St Andrews Gin Good pinch of Sea Salt Good pinch of Black Pepper A sprig of fresh Rosemary

Method

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To make the pastry, sift the flour together with a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Rub in the butter until you have a soft breadcrumb

texture. Add enough cold water to make the crumb mixture come together to form a firm dough, and then rest it in the fridge for 30 minutes. Preheat your oven to 180c Fan/ Gas 5.

Food & Beverage - A taste of Scotland, Chef in a Kilt with….Gordon Howe

Roll out the pastry on a light floured surface and line a 8½ inch well-buttered flan dish and line with parchment. Don’t cut off the edges of the pastry yet. Return to the fridge and chill a little more Remove flan dish from the fridge and line the base of the pastry with baking parchment and then fill with baking beans to blind bake. Put it on a baking tray and bake for 20 minutes. Next remove the baking beans and parchment, brush with a little beaten egg and return to the oven for another five minutes to cook the base Reduce the temperature of the oven to 160C/Fan/Gas 3. Sprinkle the cheese into the

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Food & Beverage - A taste of Scotland, Chef in a Kilt with….Gordon Howe

pastry base and add chopped turnip and tatties (potato). Place done small chunks of haggis around the surface. Combine the eggs with the milk and cream in a bowl and season well. Pour over the haggis, tatties and neeps. Sprinkle the tensing grated cheddar over the top and trim the edges of the pastry. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until quiche is set. Allow to cool and set further. Tidy the pastry edges with a sharp knife to get a perfect edge or leave for a rustic look and then serve in wedges. Put some vine tomatoes in an oven dish. Drizzle with Rapeseed oil and season with sea salt and pepper. Place in the oven with the for 10 minutes. Cook the Asparagus for two or three minutes until green and tender and cut into pieces. Toss the

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tomatoes, asparagus and St Andrews Gin in a bowl with a pinch of black pepper and sea salt. Slice the Caboc Cheese ready to plate.

Place a slice of quiche on the plate then put a few heaped tables spoon of tomato, asparagus salad with a couple of slices of Caboc and serve immediately.

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Food & Beverage - New distillery for Speyside

Speyside distillers’ current distillery near Kingussie

New distillery for Speyside

by Scott Aitken

new state-of-the-art distillery is to be built in Speyside.

As part of an ambitious expansion plan Speyside Distillers, which is best known for its award-winning SPEY single malts,already operates the Speyside Distillery near Kingussie.

The firm has also recently taken on two new members of distilling staff to assist with increased production. “Last year was challenging for us, as it was for most businesses dealing with Covid-19. With our industry also facing the added problem of US tariffs, we have had to change our strategy to find new and innovative ways to drive our business forward,” said

Patricia Dillon, Managing director. “In 2019 we committed to increasing our distillate to meet rising demand, and this year we are producing five times our normal rates. “Our plans for a new distillery will ensure that we can continue to distil the quantities of whisky required, while also allowing us room for further expansion.

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Food & Beverage - New distillery for Speyside John Harvey McDonough

“Although our full plans – including location and design – are currently under wraps, we’re looking forward to sharing more as they unfold over the coming months and years.” Chief executive John Harvey McDonough said he is confident that this is the perfect next step for the SPEY brand and his Harvey family legacy. Speyside Distillers already

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operates the boutique Speyside Distillery in the foothills of the Cairngorms National Park. Exporting its high-quality spirits to 32 countries around the world, the distillery is well known for its single malt whiskies – SPEY and Beinn Dubh – made using traditional methods, as well as the popular Byron’s Gin. “Building a new distillery is obviously a major commitment, and we are incredibly excited

about the opportunities it shall bring for our single malt whisky brands,” said Mr McDonough. “It’s important to us that we continue to embrace experience and history within the whisky industry, while also continuing to innovate and nurture new talent to ensure its bright future.”

Food & Beverage - New distillery for Speyside

Patricia Dillon

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Business - Weaving a bight future for tartan

Weaving a bright future for tartan than the cloth worn for centuries as a plaid or ‘kilt’.

Tartan is, without doubt, one of the greatest fabric designs in the world, being used not only for clothing but for a myriad of homeware, rugs and accessories.

by Jo de Sylva

rom the hills of the Highlands to the catwalks of London, nothing brings Scotland to mind more

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Almost every depiction of Scotland across the world will feature a clan or family tartan, and the allegiance felt by proud Scotsmen, and women, for their family tartan is one that is very rarely broken.

Up to recently there was not a single surviving tartan mill in the North of Scotland - that is until Claire Campbell, a former chartered accountant, came forward with her “Build the Mill’ campaign.

Based in the Black Isle, just North of Inverness, Claire is in the process of converting a farm steading to become the Highlands only tartan weaving mill. While the mill is currently in temporary premises, producing some of the first Highland woven tartans for many years, it won’t be

Business - Weaving a bight future for tartan

Claire Campbell

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Business - Weaving a bight future for tartan

long before the mills are turning in what will become a permanent home for Claire’s luxury brand ‘Prickly Thistle’.

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A very successful campaign through the Kickstarter platform, raised £250,000 to make the old farm buildings the permanent home of Prickly Thistle,.

The mill gives clients the opportunity to weave their own piece of history through bespoke tartan designs and products.

“We spoke to someone, who spoke to someone else who suggested we knock on a door, and eventually we discovered them. They had been tucked

away for five years unused because no one knew how to operate them. I organised two 40 ton low loaders to bring these mills to the highlands with no

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Business - Weaving a bight future for tartan

The idea of finding and bringing 100 year old mills back to the Highlands began ‘like Chinese whispers’ said Claire.

Business - Weaving a bight future for tartan

idea how they worked either!. “I began asking around and found a joiner (Woody), who had worked in Hunters of Brora before it closed, who knew a guy, who cut the grass at the bowling club in Brora who used to work these looms. Eventually we got in contact with this amazing man, Martin Dent, who arrived at our door and he’s been with us now for three years. He’s in his 70’s, as fit as a fiddle and he’s our Yoda” Claire has designed tartans for some of the biggest names in the UK including Belladrum, Tomatin Whisky, Runrig and also creating the Sassenach tartan, working alongside Sam Heughan from Outlander. “The Sassenach Tartan all began on the back of a tweet and we’ve had amazing support from Sam for the past three years,” explained Claire.

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You want their children and grandchildren to talk about the influences behind the design, to tell their life story.” And what will people say in 200 years about Prickly Thistle? ”It’s about leaving a legacy and identity. It’s feeling connected to people, clan and community. Life is so short and within it there

will be highs and lows so it’s important to leave a legacy” said Claire. With such enthusiasm and dedication, allied to a strong sense of place, sustainability Claire’s obvious love of the Highlands and a sprinkle of a little crazy, Prickly Thistle appears to have a very exciting and fulfilling journey ahead.

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Business - Weaving a bight future for tartan

“The process of creating a bespoke tartan begins with getting to know the client, talking about the reasons for choosing particular colours. It’s about creating their story about what they are most proud of as it’s essentially a book, the story of their life. You need to know their every influence so you track back and talk about what has inspired those ideas and work from there.

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Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

Photo by Duncan Holmes

Sustainable elegance

by Alicja Błasińska

ndividuality and sustainability have become more than just words for Edinburgh fashion designer Alison Harm, they are the keys to her success.

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For the last 36 years the creative entrepreneur has built up an international reputation as one of Scotland’s leading innovators. Her unique style has attracted clients from across the UK, northern Europe and as far a field as Australia.

Founder of the Psychomoda brand, which derives its name from a feminisation of the classic Steve Harley song called Psycomodo and means crazy fashionable girl, she is a beacon of glamorous originality.

Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

Photo by Alison Harm

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Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

“I’m a bit more avant grade than the regular designer, a bit more left field,” admits Alison, who takes great pride in the

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craftsmanship and care that goes into the production of every one of her garments.

fashion.” Almost everything Alison sells in her shop, from jewellery and soap

to clothing and knitwear, is made by her. The only exceptions are a few selected vintage pieces.”

Photo by Duncan Holmes

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Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

“I started my business wanting to pursue individuality in myself and for my customers rather than just churning out the latest fast

Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

Situated just off the Royal Mile, on St Mary’s Street, Alison’s small independent shop is something of a hidden gem

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favoured by customers looking for something special, either couture or ready to wear, that is unusual but still exudes an air of allure,

romance and excitement. A lot of Alison’s overseas customers go to her for their

especially tartan and tweed, which she often puts together to create something that is unique and individual.

“I had one customer from France who specifically wanted an Isle of Skye corset and long skirt for her wedding day and she flew over

Photo by Duncan Holmes

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Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

bridal wear because they appreciate tartan. She has a reputation for being very good at working with all materials but

Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

specially to have me make it,” said Alison. There has been renewed interest

Photo by Craig Crawford

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in tartan in recent years, partly as a result of television shows such as Outlander, with more customers looking for something

that at least gives a nod to an era they consider is seen as more romantic.

copy Outlander but they want something in tartan or tweed that has a romantic or historic feel to it.”

Even without the Outlander connection there has been a growing appreciation for Scottish fashion as more people become

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Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

“I get a lot of ladies who go to Outlander conventions and they can be adventurous in what they buy. They are not trying to

Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

aware of the talent that exists in the country.

themselves,” said Alison, whose clients range in age from 25 to 70.

“A lot of visitors don’t realise just how fantastic the Scottish fashion industry is until they come here and see it for

“We have amazing fabrics, knitwear and sense of style. Some big designers, like Chanel and Vivienne Westwood, have

Photo by Howard Ashton-Jones LRPS

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tapped into it a little but people don’t realise it extends much further than that. It’s only when they get here they discover that they can walk down the Royal Mile and find amazing clothes.”

Photo by Howard Ashton-Jones LRPS

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Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

Although the last year has been difficult for everyone,Alison, who spent much of 2020 making and donating scrubs to health workers, has been planning on a series of new projects, such as recycling kimonos and working

Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska Photo by amandajanephotography.smugmug.com

with wool for a fresh range of knitwear. Long before it became mainstream Alison and Psychomoda has been at the forefront of the sustainable fashion movement. “Fortunately the fashion industry has woken up to the fact that it

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is the second largest polluter of the planet next to the oil industry. People can too easily buy cheap clothing they wear once and throw away,” said Alison. “We have polluted the planet, created poverty for those who work in developing countries manufacturing these garments, and lost biodiversity due to large

areas of land being turned over to cotton production. “Making, remaking utilising textiles and garments again and again has been something I have always done. As a sustainable fashion practitioner with years of experience I can help people make better choices for their own wardrobes.”

Style - Beauty & Style with... Alicja Błasińska

Photo by Howard Ashton-Jones LRPS

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Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs Photo by Dave Mackison

Doing the Dubhs

by Scott Aitken

orld renowned street trials and mountain bike rider Danny MacAskill has conquered one of Scotland’s most severe climbing routes - on two wheels. For his latest challenge the 34-year-old adventurer returned to the Isle of Skye to climb and ride down the legendary Dubh Slabs on the edge of the Cuillins. Recognised as one of the most remote of Scotland’s classic moderate mountain climbing routes it has some of the finest friction slabs in the country. Photo by Dave Mackison

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Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

Video QR Code

Danny’s latest video, a ‘We are Peny Media’ production directed by both Robbie Meade and Danny, shows the biking professional scrambling to just below the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag, which translates as Little Black Peak, at a height of 733 metres. The route is one of the most technical sections of the Dubh Ridge but Danny climbed it unroped with his bike strapped to his back before embarking on a hair-raising, heart thumping descent. Set against the magnificent backdrop of unrivalled mountain wilderness views, Danny

Photo by Dave Mackison

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Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

navigated his way down the seriously technical 900 metre route, over a very steep ledge system of black ‘boiler-plated’

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Gabbro slabs, exposed steps and drop offs, buttresses and grassy clefts, to the shores of Loch Coruisk at sea level.

Danny has always been a massive fan of rock climbers. Inspired by their achievements he was keen to film another technical

Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

mountain challenge descending on his bike. He came across the Dubh Slabs last summer (2020) when climbing with some school

Photo by Dave Mackison

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Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

friends. Immediately he saw the potential of the terrain and riding obstacles on the face and knew he needed to come and tackle it.

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He had a few big projects planned for 2020 which had to be cancelled. When things opened up and travel was

permitted again he and a small crew pulled things together for a two day shoot in September 2020 on a much smaller scale

The most challenging part was definitely the final 200 metre slab vertical section, which on the first day was just not possible to ride.

Photo by Dave Mackison

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Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

than recent sponsored bigger budget projects. “I was pretty nervous tackling a lot of the obstacles on the route.

Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

It was very exposed and had a very difficult run out. This made the grip, braking and balance very difficult. You literally feel

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gravity just pulling you down the rock and when the only thing stopping you is your brakes you really feel how steep it is. Luckily

it all worked out and I managed to get off the slab onto the grass reasonably controlled,” said Danny.

the loch on the boat after finishing the filming! “I really hope everyone enjoys

this video and we hope it inspires some fun bike adventures when we are allowed to properly explore Scotland again.”

Photo by Dave Mackison

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Active Scotland - Doing the Dubhs

“As much as I enjoyed riding the Dubh Slabs, the most memorable emotion was the relief and satisfaction heading back over

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Supernatural Scotland - Homage to the Winter Queen

Photo by Graeme Johncock

Homage to the Winter Queen

by Graeme Johncock

cotland is a small country with big stories and some world famous storytellers in the form of Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. While travelling around Scotland might not be an option for the immediate future, what better way to visit this incredible country than through its folklore and legends? From mythical creatures like the Kelpie or Brownie to legendary

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historical figures like William Wallace or Robert the Bruce, you can hardly visit a loch, glen or castle without finding an extraordinary tale worth telling. In the depth of winter, the story that stands out more than the rest is that of the Cailleach. The Cailleach is the winter Goddess, divine hag and the creator of our mountains, rivers and lochs. She features in a number of Scottish stories, sometimes called Beira or

Supernatural Scotland - Homage to the Winter Queen Queen of Winter Wonder tales from Scottish myth and legend 1917

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Supernatural Scotland - Homage to the Winter Queen

the Queen of Winter. She is a giantess, so big that the water in the Sound of Mull only

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comes up to her knees and she uses the mountains as stepping stones, shaping them to her liking with a great hammer. Smaller

hills were created as rocks and peat fell out of her basket while she strode across the landscape. Her traditional throne is up on

Appropriately for a Winter Goddess she has blue skin and white hair as well as a single eye. She herds deer throughout

the winter and is responsible for freezing the ground with her staff and whipping up fierce storms.

Photo by Graeme Johncock Kilchurn Castle, Loch Awe

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Supernatural Scotland - Homage to the Winter Queen

Ben Nevis, the highest point in Scotland where she rides out with her maiden hags to fill the land with frost every winter.

Supernatural Scotland - Homage to the Winter Queen Photo by Graeme Johncock

The impressive Loch Awe, now the site of Kilchurn Castle, was created when the Cailleach fell asleep tending a well near the top of Ben Cruachan. The water flowed down the hill, starting as a small burn before turning into a river that then flooded the Glen below before she woke. One of her maiden hags called Nessa displeased the Cailleach so much that she was turned into a river. Even as a river Nessa was

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unruly and she burst her banks, overflowing until she had created Loch Ness. The Cailleach is powerful but her power starts to wane after the winter solstice and soon enough she’ll notice her servants rebelling with everybody looking forward to summer. The Goddess doesn’t like this at all and creates fierce storms during January and February in her fury.

The story goes that if February 1 is bright and clear then that’s because the Cailleach is stocking up on her firewood and winter is going to last a little longer than usual that year. Eventually she will lose her power at Beltane (May Day) and sleep until Samhainn (Halloween) before the cycle starts again. Winters can be very harsh in Scotland so it was important for

people to have this cyclical story. It explains why things got so cold and assures them that it’s only temporary.

When planning your next hike in Scotland keep your eyes open for placenames like Allt-nanCailleach or Beinn na Cailleach

and remember the stories of the Winter Goddess who created this incredible landscape.

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Supernatural Scotland - Homage to the Winter Queen

Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Island bolthole with star-studded past

romantic seaside house on the Isle of Skye formerly owned by singer-songwriter Donovan is now on the market.

singer-songwriter Donovan. He welcomed many celebrity friends to visit him on Skye, including in 1971 George Harrison and his wife Pattie Boyd.

The Boathouse, set on the shores of Loch Bay, enjoys spectacular views across the loch to the islands of Islay and Mingay and the distant mountains of North Uist.

The situation of the Boathouse, in a sheltered bay on the Waternish peninsula offers the ultimate in peaceful coastal living.

Built in the late 18th century and originally part of the Waternish Estate, the property was converted into a comfortable home in the 1970s by the Scottish

“This is a truly spectacular setting to enjoy a tranquil island lifestyle or to take advantage of the many opportunities for outdoor activities such as walking, cycling, water sports, wildlife watching or wild swimming. The

Donovan 1969 on US TV

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Living Scotland - Island bolthole with star-studded past

Boathouse Skye

Living Scotland - Island bolthole with star-studded past

Boathouse has been modernised sympathetically, retaining all the character of a traditional building and making the most the lovely

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outlooks,” said Phiddy Robertson of selling agents Galbraith. The property offers well-

maintained light-filled accommodation a spacious dining kitchen, two sitting rooms, one with double-height ceiling,

The Boathouse falls within the

Stein Village conservation area and the village is within walking distance along the shore. In this peaceful and unspoilt setting

there are regular sightings of native wildlife, while to the rear of the house is a waterfall and the sheltered, tidal harbour provides

The Boathouse exterior

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Living Scotland - Island bolthole with star-studded past

three bedrooms, one with ensuite WC, and a family bathroom.

Living Scotland - Island bolthole with star-studded past

Boathouse interior

a safe mooring for boats. The Isle of Skye is the best known of the Inner Hebridean islands off the west coast of Scotland. Famous for its romantic, historical associations and magnificent

Boathouse kitchen

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landscape dominated by the Cuillin Mountains, the island is very popular attracting many tourists throughout the year as well as those who seek to enjoy a peaceful lifestyle in unspoilt and beautiful surroundings.

The property is currently used as a holiday let, and has hosted many honeymoons over the years and one wedding. The Boathouse is for sale for offers over £435,000.

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Discover Scotland Issue 50

Articles inside

Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle

Spikin up fur Scots

Psychomoda -Sustainable elegance