Discover Scotland Issue 59 by Discover Scotland

Walking with the dead Glasgow’s cowboy experiences An Inverness invitation

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New world heritage trail Pedalling back time

The skirmish that changed history 1

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Kinnoull Hill Tower, Pearth Photo by VisitScotland / Kenny Lam

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Walking

History

In the wake of the dead on Scotland’s coffin roads

The day Buffalo Bill came to Glasgow

Travel

Sounds

Planning a short break in Inverness

Tom Morton introduces the

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latest Musical Discoveries show

Food & Beverage

Travel

A diplomatic dish celebrating

Showcasing Scotland world class heritage sites

Scotland’s European links

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Antiques

Food & Beverage

Antiques expert Roo Irvine checks out chess

Sweet, savoury and tasty temptations from Bad Girls

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114

126

Environment

Travel

Encouraging action to fight climate crisis

Retracing the bicycle trip of a lifetime

136

144

Culture

Folklore

Inspiring a new generation of Gaelic film

A legendary guide to slaying giants

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152 Arts

History

Kudos for horror movie made in Scotland

The Jacobite victory that started the ’45

174 Property Homes and opportunities for sale

162

1/220 Cover/Back Photo Neidpath Castle, Scottish Borders Photo by VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins

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Discover Scotland is an independent magazine published by Discover Scotland Ltd. The monthly digital title provides an international audience of readers with comprehensive coverage of modern day Scotland, its people, achievements, culture, history and customs. Every issue covers a variety of topics of interest to thousands of people every month, many of them visitors to Scotland or part of the great Scottish diaspora. The digital edition incorporates audio, video and text in a single platform designed for use on Apple, Android and Windows devices. The magazine is free to subscribe to and download. For more information on how to get a copy, subscribe or enquire about advertising please contact the relevant departments. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any claim made by advertisements in Discover Scotland magazine or on the Discover Scotland website. All information should be checked with the advertisers.

General Enquiries info@discoverscotlandmagazine.com

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The content of the magazine does not necessarily represent the views of the publishers or imply any endorsement. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior agreement in writing from Discover Scotland Ltd.

Issue 59

Walking

he way of the dead by Paul Kelbie

arrying a dead weight, literally, up and down a steep hill, over uneven ground on a makeshift path barely wide enough to fit two people side by side is no mean feat. But, that’s exactly what generations of Scots did for hundreds of years to ensure their loved-ones received a Christian burial in hallowed ground.

them today are oblivious of their original purpose.

Coffin roads are exactly what their name suggests. The remnants of these well-worn paths, used by mourners to carry the bodies of their family and friends to eternal rest, can be found in numerous rural locations.

“This is a beautiful route, which now forms part of both the John Muir Way and the Three Lochs Way, with spectacular views of Loch Lomond,” said Gerena, who founded Argyll Walks to show visitors some of the greatest scenery in Argyll while regaling them with tales of the legendary MacGregor, Colquhoun and MacFarlane clans.

Many of these ancient byways form part of a network of trekking routes across the country, even though most people who walk

Gerena Sumen is an expert in the roads less travelled around Loch Lomond and Argyll. As an experienced walking guide she has explored many of these routes, including the often forgotten Stoneymollan Coffin Road from Balloch to Cardross.

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The Stoneymollan Coffin Walk forms part of both the John Muir Way and the Three Lochs Way Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Gerena Sumen founder of Argyll Walks Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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A boat on the loch as seen from the Stoneymollan Coffin Walk Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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“Most people don’t realise that hundreds of years ago the villagers living around the head of Loch Lomond at Balloch, and the surrounding area, would have used this route for all their funerals,” said Gerena.

carry the coffin up and over the hill to consecrated ground.”

“Not every church had burial rights and the closest to Balloch was about six miles away over the hill at Cardross. Few people had horses then, especially not the poor, so the only way to give your loved one a proper burial was to

Initially, there is a tarmac road which leads to a footbridge over the A82, the main road north from Glasgow to the Highlands, and is easy to navigate as it follows a gradual climb up the 600ft hill.

Today, the well signposted route takes walkers from the Old Luss Road, opposite the Marston Inn, in Balloch to Cardross.

Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Photo by Stewart Cunningham

Popular with dog walkers, runners and the occasional horse rider the route soon turns from a purpose built road into a single track about half way up. The uneven stones, pressed into the ground indicate that somebody at some time tried to pave the way across the ground, which is marshy in places for good reason, but by no means is it a smooth path. Each step closer to the summit of Stoneymollan Muir reveals more of the beautiful surroundings as Loch Lomond and the far away peaks open up to view.

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“The sight of Ben Lomond with the loch and some of the islands mapped out below can be quite breathtaking. On a clear day it is possible to see as far as the distant mountains of Cowal,” said Gerena. Undoubtedly, in bright sunshine and blue skies, it’s a great walk to unwind and appreciate the beauty of the rugged landscape. However, on a darker day or cloudy night its equally easy to imagine the melancholy mood of past generations as the carried their loved ones to rest.

Indeed, many of Scotland’s coffin roads come with tales of apparitions, superstitions and traditions. It is often assumed spirits of the dead inhabit these paths, along with various other spectres, fairies and supernatural elements, ready to torment the unwary or irreverent. “At no time could the coffin be allowed to touch the ground or the spirit of the deceased would return as a ghost,” said Gerena. “It had to be shouldered all the way. There must have been quite a large number of pallbearers taking turns every couple of hundred yards. “The coffin also had to be carried with the dead person’s feet facing away from the their house so they couldn’t find their way back home. That’s where we get the saying about being “carried feet first’ out of a building. “The pallbearers had to follow meandering paths, because ghosts supposedly prefer to travel in straight lines, and they were not allowed to step off the narrow track onto farmland in case the crops got cursed. It was considered bad luck if, for any reason, the funeral procession had to divert from the coffin road.”

Gerena by the remains of the old stone cross Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Looking over towards Ben Lomond Photo by Stewart Cunningham

Other legends ensured many paths went through marshy ground or over small streams because it was believed spirits could not cross running water. Other tracks often intersect with the coffin routes as ghosts, apparently, can’t use maps and they get confused by crossroads. Frank Smyth, a famous 20th century mountaineer between the wars, once wrote of his encounter with spirits while walking over the hills on another coffin road from Morvich to Glen Glomach and the Falls of Glomach.

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It was a sunny day and he’d just sat down for a rest when he got an uneasy feeling and saw the spectral image of a group of weary-looking, ragged men, women and children walking towards him. Suddenly they were ambushed by another group of men wielding swords and clubs who massacred the unfortunate wretches as he watched helplessly. “I am not a superstitious person, but it seemed to me that I was vouchsafed a backward glimpse into a bloodstained page of Highland history,” he wrote in his 1941 book ‘The Mountain Vision’.

Back on the Stoneymollan Road there is a large flat-topped rock at the summit of the hill which once served as the base for a cross, hence the alternative name for the route in the 19th century as “Cross Stone Road”. It is thought it was used as a resting place where the pallbearers could put down the coffin without risking it touching the ground. From here it’s a downward trek to St Mahew’s Chapel, a small

mediaeval chapel at Kirkton of Kilmahew, near Cardross. Built on the site of a former pagan sanctuary, as evidenced by the discovery of an ancient standing stone excavated in 1955. The monument has a cross carved on it as a show of Christ’s victory over heathenism and is believed to date back to the earliest Christian influence in Kilmahew, around the 6th century. It now stands in the vestibule of the church.

Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Other fragments of ancient tombs, dating back to the 9th century, discovered in the grounds of the chapel show it has been used as a Christian burial ground for well over 1,000 years.

Located about three miles from Cardross, where King Robert the Bruce had a castle, it is very likely the hero of Bannockburn probably prayed at Kilmahew at some or another.

Written records of the chapel’s existence can be traced back to the 14th century when the lands of Kilmahew, including the church, were granted to Roger Cochran by King David II (1329-1370) before being transferred to the Napier family sometime later.

The current chapel was first built in 1467 by Duncan Napier and its fortunes waxed and waned over the following centuries before being completely restored in 1955.

Stoneymollan Walk is not overly long and is suitable for most people with average fitness abilities. There’s plenty of places to pause, take breath and enjoy the view while you marvel at the history of following in the footsteps of those who lived hundreds of years ago.

However, having walked all the way from Balloch to Cardross, or vice versa, the advantages of 21st century living are soon appreciated. Both locations have plenty of cafes and places for rest and refreshment. They also have bus and train links, as well as plenty of taxis, for the return trip.

Standing on the footbridge across the A82 Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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History

he day Buffalo Bill came to Glasgow By Scott Aitken

February 1846 he became a living legend while still a young man.

Tucked away off the beaten track there is a larger than life memorial to one of America’s greatest westerners in the east end of Glasgow.

Following the death of his father, Cody, already a talented horseman, worked as a messenger on wagon trains before, according to his own account, becoming a Pony Express rider while still only 14-years-old.

ost Glaswegians will admit to knowing a few cowboys but few realise there is a statue to a real one in Scotland’s largest city.

It was built to commemorate the time, 130 years ago this month, when Buffalo Bill Cody came to town and caused such a stir that his visit has never been forgotten. Born William Fredrick Cody, more than 3,8509 miles away from Glasgow, in Le Claire, Iowa on 26

In 1863 he enlisted, age 17, to fight for the Union Army in the American Civil War. He was honourably discharged in 1865 but returned to Army life a year or so later working as a Scout, winning the Medal of Honor in 1872 for gallantry above and beyond the call of duty.

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The Buffalo Bill statue at Dennistoun, Glasgow Photo by Dave Souza CC BY-SA 4.0

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Buffalo Bill Cody by Burke circa 1892

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Buffalo Bill, who earned his nickname supplying bison meat to workers of the Kansas Pacific Railroad, achieved national fame when he met journalist and author Ned Buntline in 1869. Buntline published a story, supposedly based on 23-year-old Cody’s adventures, for the New York Weekly and turned it into a best selling book, ‘Buffalo Bill, King of the Bordermen’, which was serialised on the front page of the Chicago Tribune. With his new found fame Cody was a big draw and, in 1872, he joined one of the first Wild West Shows, produced by Buntline. By 1883 he had set up his own Buffalo Bill’s Wild West touring show out of Nebraska. In 1887 Cody began taking his portrayal of the Wild West to an international audience, playing

before some of the crowned heads of Europe. In 1891 he brought the show to Glasgow where it ran from 16 November 1891 to 27 February 1892 in the East End Exhibition Building, much to the delight of thousands of local residents. Cody was a natural born showman who understood the value of publicity. He quickly made sure people knew he was in town with a series of well orchestrated stunts designed to sell tickets and fill the 7,000 capacity Dennistoun venue. One day he turned up late at a Rangers versus Queen’s Park quarter final football match. Dressed in his extravagant western costume there was no mistaking he was there and he was enthusiastically welcomed by the 12,000 strong crowd.

An early publicity photograph for Buffalo Bill’s Wild West circa 1890

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He also sent a team of cowboys to play a charity match at Parkhead, bought shoes for street urchins and gave money to the poor in Glasgow Square. On Christmas Eve 1891 he even hosted up to 8,000 Glasgow schoolchildren at a special matinee of the Wild West show. However, it wasn’t all positive publicity. One of the Native American performers, Charging Thunder, enjoyed the local hospitality of the East Ends pubs a little too much and ended up being jailed for assault. It was alleged that while drunk he had attacked George Crager, a Sioux interpreter, with a wooden club. Although he pled guilty to the charge it was said the 23-year-old had mistaken whisky for lemonade while visiting the pub. The Sheriff described the assault as so serious that if Charging Thunder had been a local man he would have been imprisoned for a long time. Instead he imposed a 30 day jail term In Barlinnie Prison.

Charging Thunder, a Lakota Sioux warrior from Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show who jailed in Glasgow (PD)

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A photo of Buffalo Bill with his friend Chief Sitting Bull in 1895. Despite urban legends Sitting Bull did not visit Glasgow with the Wild West show.

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The show put on by Cody was a huge success. Glasgow audiences couldn’t get enough of the gun-totting antics of famous sharpshooters, such as Annie Oakley; the daredevil horsemanship displays and re-enactments of wild west shootouts. And, for their part, many of the performers enjoyed their time in Scotland. One of them, part Lakota Sioux John Shangrau married the daughter of a ship’s captain in Glasgow. Annie Oakley had a tartan outfit specially made, which she wore during her performances in Scotland, and was photographed by a studio in the city’s Jamaica Street dressed in it. Kicking Bear, a cousin of Crazy Horse and the medicine man who helped promote the Ghost Dance before becoming the last Lakota warrior to surrender to the US authorities, also had his picture taken by a photographer based in Bellgrove Street. Many of Cody’s Native American performers had only a short time before been at war with the US government. Kicking Bear and Short Bull were said to have been at the Battle of Little Big Horn in 1876 which killed Custer and more than 200 of his troopers, including several Scots (see issue 6).

Sharpshooter Annie Oakley dressed in the tartan outfit she had made in Glasgow.

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Annie Oakley shooting

Ghost Dance

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Chief Iron Tail photographed in Glasgow, 1904, during Buffalo Bill’s second visit to the city.

The last performance of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West in Glasgow was at the end of February 1892 and was as much of a sellout as the first. While Cody headed home to the US, with plans for a London trip the following year, many of the performers stayed in Glasgow for

several months afterwards and became a familiar sight around town. Some of the musicians from the show teamed up with a group of Native American performers and did their own mini tour of Lanarkshire and Renfrewshire.

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Advertising poster for Buffalo Bill’s Wild West show

However, it wasn’t the last time Scotland played host to Buffalo Bill. In 1904 Buffalo Bill’s Wild West and Congress of Rough Riders of the World, an expanded version of the earlier show, returned to play 29 venues across Scotland.

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During a visit to Ayrshire some of the performers visited Robert Burns’ mausoleum in Dumfries where one of the Native Americans laid a wreath in honour of the poet.

In 2006, to mark the 115th anniversary of Buffalo Bill’s first visit to Glasgow, the architectural firm Regency Homes commissioned a statue in his honour to be erected close to the spot where his performances had enthralled thousands of Glaswegians and gave them a taste of the legend that has become the Wild West.

Photo by Dave Souza CC BY-SA 4.0

The plaque commemorating Buffalo Bill’s visit Photo Dave Souza CC BY-SA 4.0

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Travel

Exploring the delights of

Inverness

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By Helen Lloyd

ith a permanent population of little more than 47,000 residents, Inverness is Scotland’s sixth largest city and the capital of the Highlands. Compared to Edinburgh and Glasgow, which are more than 10 and 12 times larger respectively, it’s a small place but it packs a big punch when it comes to providing entertainment and attractions for visitors.

Surrounded by spectacular scenery, including the world famous Loch Ness, it is also full of great bars, restaurants and venues which provide the country’s most northerly city with a vibrancy all its own. However, be prepared! A short break in Inverness is never going to be enough as there is so much to do and see, making it an ideal place to revisit time and again.

Kessock Bridge over the Beauly Firth, Inverness Photo by VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins

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Getting there couldn’t be easier. About 20 minutes from the city centre Inverness International Airport has direct flights from Heathrow, Gatwick, Luton, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, Belfast and Amsterdam. For train travellers the overnight Caledonian Sleeper from London gets in around 8.40am. Alternatively, there are direct services from Glasgow or Edinburgh which take less than four hours - and it’s a beautiful journey through some really spectacular scenery. There are also express bus links from the central belt while drivers can enjoy a variety of routes, although the main one is usually straight up the A9 from Perth. There are plenty of fine hotels, cosy bed & breakfasts and selfcatering accommodation to choose from, both within the lively city centre or more tranquil surroundings, to suit any budget. No wonder Inverness is a prime destination for families, couples and solo travellers. But, a word to the wise! The popularity of Inverness means it’s always best to book a place to stay before arriving.

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The centre of Inverness Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Inverness viewpoint Photo by Ewen Weatherspoon/VisitBritain

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To truly understand and appreciate the cultural and historic importance of Inverness it pays to learn something of its past. A great place to start is the city’s Museum & Art Gallery. Situated just behind the Town House it provides a fascinating introduction to Highland history with permanent and frequently changing temporary exhibitions. Travel back in time to explore the geology, Gaelic culture, and events that have made this area of Scotland what it is today. There are displays of Pictish, Celtic, Gaelic, Viking and Jacobite artefacts along with works of art from local talent - all of which can be enjoyed for free as there is no admission charge.

A clan grave on the battlefield of Culloden Photo by VisitScotland

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Next door to the museum is Inverness Castle, the origins of which date back to the 11th century. Over the years various constructions have occupied this spot and the castle has been besieged by Mary Queen of Scots in 1592 and destroyed by Jacobites in 1745. The ruins were only rebuilt in 1834, making it practically a ‘new build’ compared to other Scottish fortresses, and turned into the Sheriff Court House. As a working building it is not open to sightseers but visitors can still roam the grounds, admire the statue of Flora MacDonald - heroine of the Jacobite cause, and climb the tower to a fairly new attraction called the Castle Viewpoint which provides a stunning 360 degree panorama over the city and beyond.

Inverness Castle Viewpoint Photo by Ewen Weatherspoon/VisitBritain

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Inverness Castle Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

Interior of Inverness Castle Viewpoint Photo by Ewen Weatherspoon/VisitBritain

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Night view of the River Ness running through the centre of Inverness Photo by VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins

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In between visits to the numerous attractions devoted to the city’s past, present and even future remember to eat - and there is a lot on the menu. Music fans can stop for snack at the Rendezvous Café which stands on the site of the old 18th century Northern Meeting Rooms which once played host to a then unknown Liverpool pop group called the ‘Silver Beatles’ before they shortened their name. For live music and good craic head over to MacGregor’s Bar for something a little different. Apart from offering the very best in Scottish craft brewing and distilling to compliment the amazing menu of local and seasonal food it also provides great entertainment with plenty of live music, chat and fun. It claims to be the most authentic Highland pub in the world. The streets of Inverness may not be paved with gold but they are steeped in history and character. The Victorian Market, for example, is a covered structure built around 1876 housing a variety of 40 shops while the surrounding thoroughfares are full of interesting independent retailers and some of the most beautiful buildings in Inverness.

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A floodlit Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness Photo by VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins

Outside the city there are lots of activities for a variety of abilities. Whether it’s a gentle walk around Loch Ness, a leisurely paddle in a canoe or a trip on a Jacobite Cruise boat to view the local wildlife, and maybe even a monster, it’s a great way to relax. Loch Ness contains more freshwater than all the lakes in

England and Wales combined and is surrounded by beautiful scenery providing a unique backdrop to thousands of years of legend and history. Urquhart Castle, a ruined 13th century fortress overlooking the loch provides an ideal spot for a romantic view of the sunset over the water.

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View of the River Ness from the esplanade of the castle Photo by VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins

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Flowers on some of the clan graves at Culloden Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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For history buffs a visit to Inverness would not be complete without a trip to the Battlefield of Culloden. It was here, about five miles from the city, that Bonnie Prince Charlie’s Jacobite rebellion of 1745 was crushed in under an hour of fierce fighting by troops loyal to King George. What makes Culloden so emotional is that added to the slaughter of over 1,500 Jacobites it marks where and when the Highlanders’ traditional way of life way began to change. The interactive visitor’s centre offers a fascinating guide into the battle and its aftermath.

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Back in the city unwind with a walk along the tree-lined banks of the River Ness, past the twin tower Victorian Gothic St Andrew’s Cathedral, completed in 1869.

As an early summer morning wake-up or romantic night-time stroll there is something soothing in just watching the river flow through the city.

Inverness Cathedral Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Ness islands on the River Ness Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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A short distance from the centre are a group of islands in the middle of the river connected by a series of Victorian footbridges. From there it is possible to carry on to Caledonian Canal.

A masterpiece of engineering designed by Thomas Telford, opened in 1822, connecting Inverness to Fort William through the Great Glen.

Barges and cruise boats on the Caledonian Canal Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Music to accompany reading Discover Scotland www.discoverscotlandmagazine.com 1: Del Amitri - You Can’t Go Back 2: James Yorkston - Fellow Man 3: Incredible String Band - Job’s Tears 4: Staple Singers - Slippery People 5: APB - Shoot You Down 6: Average White Band - You Got It 7: James King and the Lone Wolves - Fly Away 8: Lola in Slacks - Don’t Move to Denmark 9: Ronnie Costley - The Fog 10: Trashcan Sinatras - Weightlifting 11: Mylo - Into My Arms 12: Aberfeldy - Summer’s Gone 13: Kevin McDermott Orchestra - Icarus Landing

with Tom Morton

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Food & Beverage

Chef in a kilt with… Gordon Howe

riendship on a fork S

cotland is one of the oldest nations in Europe and as such has been trading with and living among our continental neighbours for centuries. The link between Italy and Scotland goes back hundreds of years and in the 19th century thousands of Italians came and settled here. Indeed, Barga in Tuscany is renowned as the most Scottish town in Italy as more than half of the residents have Scottish relatives. Likewise, the French had long been friends with Scotland. The

Auld Alliance, which was fist signed between the two countries in 1295 has been described as “the oldest alliance in the world”. It therefore seems fitting that we should celebrate our European connections with a special recipe that blends the taste and customs of three great countries in a single dish. Ladies and gentlemen I present: Cannellini Beans with Scottish Root Vegetable Velouté Sauce and Sautéed Heather Honey King Prawns.

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Cannellini beans may have started in Peru but it is Italians who have made them such an important ingredient in so many dishes. Their creamy colour and mild nutty flavour will liven up almost any recipe, not to mention their undisputed health benefits.

main ‘mother sauces” in classical French cuisine providing a savoury twist to any meal.

Equally, velouté is one of the five

Enjoy!

And, as far as root vegetables and prawns are concerned it’s no secret that Scotland produces some of the best in the world.

Cannellini Beans with Scottish Root Vegetable Velouté Sauce and Sautéed Heather Honey King Prawns Photos by Gordon Howe

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Cannellini Beans with Scottish Root Vegetable Velouté Sauce and Sautéed Heather Honey King Prawns Serves 4 Ingredients 70 ml Scottish root vegetable (or Chicken, Fish if you prefer) stock 40 ml dry white wine 34g unsalted butter 34 g plain flour pinch sea salt pinch white pepper 1/4 teaspoon turmeric 200g cannellini beans (tinned or pre steeped) 350g king prawns (or Langoustines) 40g garlic butter A little freshly chopped flat leaf parsley Heavy drizzle of heather honey

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Method

Depending on the finished sauce add your choice of stock and place it in a heavy bottom pan to heat up. Place another heavy bottom saucepan on a low heat and add the butter to gently melt. Spoon in the flour and cook and combine the butter until you achieve a blond roux. It should take about one or two minutes. You are looking for a nice blond colour so don’t let the roux get too dark.

Bring the sauce back to the boil and turn the heat down, add chopped courgette, cannellini beans and let it simmer for 10 minutes.

Next, slowly add the hot stock to the roux a little at a time and mix vigorously until they are completely combined and smooth. Continue adding the stock the same way and then the wine. Once the mixture is soft enough change to using a whisk for the last amount of stock. You are looking for a nice smooth velvety finish.

Plate your cannellini and sauce between four pasta bowls. Top equally with the king prawns and sprinkle a little fresh chopped parsley, if you like.

Heat a skillet or heavy beaded frying pan. Add the prawns and after one minute mix in the garlic butter and toss it until cooked usually about three mins. Finally, drizzle with heather honey, toss twice and set off the heat to plate

Serve with a crisp white wine or a large Dalwhinnie Winter’s Gold Whisky and crusty bread.

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UNESCO trail

nother world first By Scott Aitken

he world’s first ever UNESCO trail designed to take visitors on a cultural journey that includes everything from history to science, music, design and literature to nature and cityscapes has been launched in Scotland. The unique trail connects Scotland’s 13 place-based UNESCO designations, including World Heritage Sites, Biospheres, Global Geoparks and Creative Cities. It aims to encourage more visitors to stay longer, in Scotland visit all year round, make sustainable travel choices, explore more widely and at the right time of the year. It is hoped it will also contribute to the sustainable quality of life

for local communities and help make Scotland a world-leading responsible tourism destination. Scotland is the first nation in the world to create such a pioneering initiative, showcasing the breadth of culturally astounding UNESCO designations the country has on offer. “There is no other journey like Scotland’s UNESCO Trail and we want to inspire visitors to take a once-in-a-lifetime experience across the country, delving into its history and heritage, experiencing the wonder of its natural assets and the magic that inspires art, music and literature,” said Rob Dickson, VisitScotland Director of Industry and Destination Development.

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Official launch of the trail in Dundee, the UNESCO City of Design Photo by VisitScotland

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Kintail is an area of mountains in the Wester Ross Biosphere Photo VisitScotland

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“The innovative trail not only showcases the breadth of culturally astounding UNESCO designations we have across Scotland but also the exceptional visitor experiences this trail creates. “Tourism is a force for good – creating economic and social value in every corner of Scotland and enhancing the well-being of everyone who experiences it.” Included on the trail are Scotland’s two UNESCO biospheres. These are all about improving the relationship between people and their local environment, globally. They are sites created by UNESCO that find creative ways for people and nature to thrive together. They act as extraordinary testing grounds to put into practice an innovative approach to managing ecosystems sustainably for future generations. Wester Ross Biosphere is not only one of the most beautiful places in Scotland, it is also home to a collection of rare and unspoiled habitats where wildlife, fauna and Highland communities co-exist to create an environment of unique natural beauty, history and culture.

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Galloway & Southern Ayrshire Biosphere is renowned for its stunning landscape; a natural playground ripe with outdoor adventure and geological interest. It is also a place teeming with rare wildlife and a place where you can experience a rich cultural life and creative scene that is unique to the corner of south Scotland. Two Geoparks are also included on the trail. They are part of a global network of 169 areas of exceptional geological significance. UNESCO Global Geoparks are single, unified geographical areas where sites and landscapes of international geological significance are managed with a holistic concept of protection, education and sustainable development. Geoparks are areas of exceptional geological significance. North West Highlands Geopark is a prehistoric landscape of outstanding natural beauty and a geological heritage which is among the most precious in the world.

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Summer Isles in Assynt, part of the North West Highlands Geopark Photo by VisitScotland / Kenny Lam

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The Queensferry Crossing along with the Forth Road Bridge and Forth Bridge beyond Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Dore Holm, Shetland Photo by Visitscotland/Paul Tomkins

Equally, Geopark Shetland encompasses three billion years of geology and is home to one of the most breathtaking and diverse landscapes in Europe. There are also several World Heritage sites included on the trail, each contributing a vital part of the unique story of Scotland’s contribution to the world. These

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sites belong to everyone, and it is everyone’s duty to protect them for future generations. These sites include the Forth Bridge, an engineering marvel that spans the expanse of the Firth of Forth and remains the record holder of being the world’s longest-ever cantilever bridge.

Kinneil Fortlet, Antonine Wall Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

A few centuries before the Forth Bridge was built the Antonine Wall marked the final frontier of the Roman Empire in the north. This mighty fortification was built by Emperor Pius in 142 AD, one of the most ambitious constructions of the ancient world. Likewise, the Heart of Neolithic Orkney is a collection of the bestpreserved New Stone Age sites found in western Europe while St Kilda is home to a compact landscape of rare beauty and drama. The remote archipelago has been shaped over millions of years by powerful volcanic and glacial forces as well as two millennia of human habitation.

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The Ring of Brodgar in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney Photo by VisitScotland / Kenny Lam

A day trip to St Kilda on the MV Orca 11 from Leverburgh, Isle Of Harris Photo by VisitScotland/Paul Tomkins

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Circus Place, a street of Georgian houses in Stockbridge, Edinburgh Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Royal Circus, Edinburgh Newtown Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

Much more recently created, Scotland’s contribution to the world can be admired within the beauty of the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh. The beautiful architecture of the nation’s capital shows an important development in city building. The medieval city of the Old Town underwent an expansion leading to the construction of the spacious Georgian New Town.

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Just as historically fascinating is the purpose-built 18th century mill village of New Lanark. It was the vision of philanthropist and social reformer Robert Owen. For over two centuries it served as a worldrenowned blueprint for the ideal working and living environment for industrial labourers and their families.

McNaughton’s bookshop Photo by VisitScotland / Luigi Di Pasquale

Lastly, three of Scotland’s seven cities are included as part of the UNESCO Global Creative Cities Network, placing creativity and cultural industries at the core of urban development to create safe, resilient, inclusive and sustainable communities. Among them is Edinburgh, the first city in the world to be named a UNESCO City of Literature.

Books and reading have been at the beating heart of Edinburgh’s rich cultural life for centuries. Across the country Glasgow is home to one of the largest and most vibrant and accessible music scenes in the world. In 2008, it was named the first-ever UNESCO City of Music – its diverse culture, history and musical identity setting it apart from other cities.

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Scottish storytelling centre, Edinburgh Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Outside the central belt Dundee, a UNESCO City of Design, was once best-known for its flourishing textile trade and shipbuilding industry. It continues to place innovation at its heart, emerging as a cutting edge multidisciplinary design hub quite unlike any other. “Scotland’s UNESCO Trail is a world-first bringing together Scotland’s world-class cultural and natural heritage. Not only this, the Trail does so within UNESCO’s broader aims of building peace and sustainable development,” said Professor Anne Anderson, Non-Executive Director at the UK National Commission for UNESCO. “Across Scotland, these UNESCO designations are local partnerships and communities that protect and promote their outstanding creativity, cultural heritage and the natural environment. By partaking in the Trail, visitors from around the world will rediscover Scotland’s unique treasures, know they are travelling sustainably, and contribute to the communities who maintain these precious places”.

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The V&A Dundee is the first design museum in Scotland and the first Victoria and Albert museum outside London Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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The Standing Stones of Stenness, Orkney Photo by VisitScotland /Kenny Lam

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“From the stunning mountains of the northwest Highlands, the heart of Neolithic Orkney, the vibrant music scenes of Glasgow, to Edinburgh’s outstanding heritage and literature festivals, there is a wealth of people and places waiting to welcome you.” The trail has been developed through a unique partnership between VisitScotland, the Scottish Government, the UK National Commission for UNESCO, Historic Environment Scotland, NatureScot, the National Trust for Scotland and Scotland’s 13 UNESCO designations. “Scotland has always been a pioneering nation and I’m pleased to see we’re leading the way with the world’s first UNESCO digital trail,” said Ivan McKee, Scotland’s Tourism Minister. “Tourism is key to Scotland’s economy. The UNESCO Trail will help to attract and welcome both domestic and international visitors again, by showcasing Scotland’s unique cultural heritage and many UNESCO sites. “The UNESCO trail has sustainability at its core and will help visitors make responsible and sustainable choices by highlighting green accredited businesses and promoting environmentally friendly travel.”

Fleshmarket Close, Edinburgh Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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Antiques

Antique Hunting with… Roo Irvine

nce a pawn a time… There are antiques that you admire, some that make you think and a few that do both

unctional and decorative chess sets have been round for hundreds of years. They have been used to sharpen the mind, teach the art of strategy and cultivate patience. For more than 600million people around the world it is more than game. Dating back to 6th century India the original version of the world’s favourite pastime was called Chaturanga. In Sanskrit Chaturanga means ‘four limbs or parts’ and in poetry it translates as ‘army.’

The original ‘army’ consisted of elephants, chariots, horsemen and foot soldiers. The main similarities are that it’s played on a grid and every ‘character’ had different powers assigned to them. There are many parallels between war and a game of chess. The military have used chess as training for warfare and some generals even travelled with their own chessboard. It became a powerful metaphor for strategy, battle, defeat and protecting your territory.

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Antique Indian Elephant chess piece represented as the King Photo by Chaturaji CC BY-SA 4.0

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Chinese chess set, Hong Kong Photo by Peachyeung316 CC BY-SA 4.0

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Chaturanga travelled the world from far-flung exotic lands. From India to Persia, the Arab kingdom, Japan and China. It eventually spread to Europe through the Byzantine Empire and Muslim Spain. Once it arrived in Europe it was deeply rooted in aristocracy, wealth and nobility - almost an intellectual rite of passage. It only became a competitive sport in the 19th century.

The psychology and history behind the humble game of chess is fascinating and showcases some of the most intelligent minds in existence. During WW2, some of the top chess payers were recruited as code-breakers. Three British Chess Masters were on the team that broke the Enigma code.

Antique Indian camel chess piece representing the bishop Photo by Chaturaji CC BY-SA 4.0

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How is this display of intellectual superiority represented in our antiques? Celebrated French painter, sculptor and chess player Marcel Duchamp once said:

“I have come to the personal conclusion that while all artists are not chess players, all chess players are artists.”

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It is therefore no surprise that for many people chessboards are works of art and rank alongside

paintings and sculptures as objects of beauty.

Antique finely carved Indian Chaturanga Chess set made from sandalwood. The chess pieces are Indian riders upon various animals. Photo by Chaturaji CC BY-SA 4.0

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The most notable example is the world-famous Lewis Chessmen. Fondly known as ‘Scotland’s Hidden Secret’ and originally re-discovered in 1831 on a beach on Lewis, the chess pieces are made from walrus ivory and sperm whale tooth. They date

back to 12th century Norway when the Hebrides belonged to the kingdom of Norway. Some 93 pieces are safely homed in Scottish and UK museums as they offer a fascinating insight into medieval Gaelic history and a long-lost world.

Lewis Chessmen in the National Museum of Scotland Photo by Christian Bickel 04.08.2005 CC BY-SA 2.0 DE

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In July 2019 an unusual looking chess piece, just 3.5inches high, was discovered in a family drawer where it sat for 55 years. The owner’s grandfather, an Edinburgh antiques dealer, had bought the chess piece for £5 in 1964 but never realised it was a missing Lewis Chessman. It sold for an incredible £735,000. It is the kind of find we all hope to stumble across. Uig Chessmen Photo © Andrew Dunn CC BY-SA 2.0

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Chess sets are incredibly hard to value and it all comes down to the maker, where it was made, the age, plus the quality of the material, - a specialist field indeed. Surprisingly, the most valuable chess set in existence is just over 10 years old! The Pearl Royale, created by jewellery maker Colin Burn is one of three in existence and is worth $4million. Made in 18kt white gold and dripping with 510 carats of diamonds, sapphires and south sea pearls, it truly is a chess set for Kings. Unfortunately if you can’t afford to buy one, you can see one up close and personal… in Beverly Hills of course! If you don’t have a lost Lewis chess piece hiding in the attic or 12th century Islamic chess set lying around at home, you can still use the wisdom of chess to guide you on your own journey. In the words of author Ralph Charell: “Avoid the crowd. Do your own thinking independently. Be the chess player, not the chess piece.”

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Jaques antique portable chess set Photo by Snowmanradio CC BY-SA 3.0

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Food & Beverage

asty temptations

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By Paul Watson

he founders of a multi-award wining Highland bakery with a reputation for producing nice and naughty treats have revealed some of their greatest secrets in a new cook book. Bad Girl Bakery, based in the Black Isle village of Muir of Ord in the Scottish Highlands, is run by Jeni Iannetta and her husband Douglas Hardie. Unapologetically generous and indulgent, Jeni’s cakes, bakes and

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biscuits have won a loyal following since the bakery opened in 2017. Now, the couple have penned their own cook book, revealing some of the sweet and savoury secrets that have helped their brand achieve international recognition. Titled, Bad Girl Bakery, the book contains over 100 of Jeni’s favourite baking recipes, illustrated with photographs by Clair Irwin.

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Chapters include everything from ‘Cake for Breakfast’ to ‘Leftover Cake’ via an entire section dedicated to Millionaire’s Shortbread. Recipes include Pimped-up Shortbread; Salted Caramel Crumble Bar; Raspberry Doughnut Brioche Buns, Granola, Greek Yoghurt & Berry Muffins; White Chocolate & Cardamom Sticky Buns; Chocolate Caramel Fudge

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Layer Cake; Deluxe Coconut Brownies and many more. These aren’t recipes with hundreds of steps, requiring specialist kit. It’s about baking with the best ingredients in a way that celebrates texture and flavour. They are do-able, fast, with simple instructions and tricks that yield the tastiest results and look great without hours and hours of work.

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For Jeni, baking is about the occasional indulgence that’s worth it. It’s about baking as a process that brings joy. Jeni’s baking career didn’t start with formal training – she’s a home baker that’s turned professional. These recipes echo this spirit with a pragmatic approach that offers variations on themes and ways to transform dishes for a vegan or gluten free diet. “This is a book for people who love cake and love to bake. People like us, who read baking blogs or watch baking shows and get excited about the latest baking books,” said Jeni.

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“Our baking has always been about understanding that cake is a treat. People don’t tend to treat themselves as often as they used to, so when they do, it has to count. Have you ever eaten a cake and felt disappointed? That you’ve wasted your treat, your calories or your time baking it? At Bad Girl Bakery we want our cakes to exceed people’s expectations, to be about flavour, texture, hidden surprises, generosity and impact. ‘Ooft, look at that!’ is

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something we hear a lot at our cake counter. “This way of baking is not complex and I hope this book inspires people to try out the recipes we’ve developed over the years.” Jeni, whose background in arts marketing for Scottish Opera and various theatre companies is a far cry from her new career.

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Like most people she gained a lot of experience through trial and error, reading cook books, watching television shows and experimenting to create food full of flavour as effortlessly as possible.

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And, all those hours practising at home has paid off. The success of the business has been huge surprise for the couple and their dedicated staff.

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Bad Girl Bakery opened its bakery and café in Muir of Ord in 2017 and has since built a reputation for its outstanding cakes and bakes, winning a number of awards, as well as contracts to supply the Caledonian Sleeper, National Trust for Scotland and cafes across the country. The Coronavirus crisis forced a reshaping of the business with the shop and café at its heart, allowing Jeni to focus on what she loves best: creating indulgent bakes with generous fillings, seasonal twists and innovative flavour combinations. The bakery’s name gently pokes fun at people who frown on indulgence – or as Jeni says, “You know, the people who tut and say, ‘Oh, you bad girl,’ when you reach for a treat.” Bad Girl Bakery by Jeni Iannetta is full of recipes written by and for home bakers and is available from bookshops at £20.

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Environment

elp tell Scotland’s climate story By Paul Watson

embers of the public are being recruited to help showcase the impact of climate change on Scotland as part of a new competition to highlight the problems faced by the planet. Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is asking people to submit photographs or artwork as part of its Visions of Climate Heritage competition to inspire change. The initiative has been developed by HES in partnership with the Heritage Trust Network and the

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Scottish Council on Archives in response to the climate emergency and was been launched to coincide with the COP26 summit in Glasgow. As part of the competition, HES will crowdsource images and artwork to tell Scotland’s climate story – past, present and future – through an online exhibition which will harness the power of Scotland’s historic environment and cultural heritage to inspire climate action.

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Rubbish strewn landscapes shame us all Photo by HES

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The entries must align with one of the three themes: ‘The Past was a Different Place’; ‘This is an Emergency’; or ‘A Greener Future’. Images can include a historic photo that illustrates a less informed time before we first learned about climate change and began to see its impact; a moment of extreme weather, which is becoming more common in Scotland, and the impact it brings to our homes, streets and natural heritage; or a creative artwork such as a painting or sculpture which showcases a green, low carbon Scotland. There will be £750 in prizes available across the categories which include Best Photograph, Best Mobile Photograph, Best Artwork, and Young Creative Awards for those aged between 12-17. Images will be judged on their ability to tell a story, as well as their visual interest, impact and relevance to the historic environment and climate change in Scotland. The competition will close on Tuesday 30 November, with the shortlisted and winning entries forming part of an online exhibition.

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Curlers circa 1889 when winters were colder and drier Photo HES

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Thatch masters traditional materials Photo HES

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Newburgh Sands pillbox, Aberdeenshire Photo HES

The judging panel will include Katharine Hayhoe, the internationally renowned climate scientist and one of TIME’s 100 Most Influential People; Phil Astley, the City Archivist for Aberdeen City and Aberdeenshire Archives; Beverley Gormley, Programme Manager for the Heritage Trust Network; Dr David Mitchell, Director of Conservation for HES; and a representative from the HistoricScot Youth Forum.

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“Our historic environment and cultural heritage are on the front line of our changing climate, and both are already experiencing the impacts of climate change. Through careful monitoring, research and investigation we can better understand how to tackle climate change and where there are opportunities to take action to make a difference,” said Alison Turnbull, Director of Development and Partnership at HES.

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“To get Scotland to net-zero, we need transformative change, and culture and heritage have the power to tell the stories about who we are and where we’ve come from, as well as pointing to where we want to go. “Visions of Climate Heritage is the first crowdsourcing competition

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that HES has run so we are really excited to see the creative ways in which people respond to the brief, and with three prizes on offer for 12-17 year-olds as part of our Young Creative Awards, we are particularly interested in engaging young people with this project.

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Maeshowe from above Photo HES

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“Whether it’s delving into the family archives, scrolling through mobile phone photographs, or creating a work of art such as a sculpture or painting, we’re encouraging everyone to get involved to help us tell Scotland’s climate story. “By showcasing how the Scotland our ancestors built has changed

over centuries as well as the impact that changes in the 21st century are having - from the rise in homeworking during the COVID-19 pandemic to the adoption of greener methods of travel – we can play our part in responding to the climate emergency and ensure that our past helps to shape our future.”

Plastic pollution, South Queensferry beach Photo HES

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Travel

ositive inspiration from the past By Helen Lloyd

ome 85 years after three sisters documented an epic 500-miles cycle ride across Scotland a team of adventurers have recreated the journey to promote the benefits of outdoor activities on mental health. It was in the summer of 1936 that keen hosteller Mary Harvie, from Shotts in Lanarkshire, embarked on the two-week holiday with her older sisters, Ella and Jean. Their epic trip began in Glasgow and took the sisters to the North West Highlands, Skye, Highland Perthshire and Stirlingshire - all by bike and without the benefit of modern day technology.

Mary Harvie, from Shotts in Lanarkshire with her two older sisters, Ella and Jean, in 1936

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Throughout the journey Mary kept a detailed diary which, with the passage of time, has left a historically poignant account of halcyon days in the Highlands just three years before the start of the Second World War. In her memoir Mary detailed many of Scotland’s most iconic sites, stunning countryside, environment and natural heritage that the sisters enjoyed along the way. Some of the extracts were recently published in Hostelling Scotland’s 2021 Members’

Handbook in celebration of the charity’s 90 Anniversary. In the diary Mary describes a blissful adventure during which every day was packed full of spectacular scenery and things to do. There were picnics on lush moorland, walks on sandy beaches, hours spent sunbathing by the side of lochs, swimming in cool mountain streams, hills climbed, castles visited and friendships made with locals and fellow travellers alike.

Mary Harvie, from Shotts in Lanarkshire with her two older sisters, Ella and Jean, in 1936

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The Adventure Syndicate ready to get going Photo by Wattie Cheung

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The diary extracts make fascinating reading and are a real gem of a reminder of days gone by and the true spirit of hostelling that can still be found alive and thriving today. Now, as part of the 90th Anniversary celebrations of Hostelling Scotland a group of female adventurers and storytellers who promote mental and physical wellbeing through their outdoor endeavours have followed in the footsteps and wheel tracks of the Harvie sisters. Lee Craigie, Alice Lemkes, and Phillipa Battye, known collectively as The Adventure Syndicate, set out from Glasgow Youth Hostel on their own seven-day, 500-mile, on and off-road cycle adventure, an appreciation of the sisters’ incredible cycling trip. In order to avoid some busy traffic on their planned, but not set in stone, route, they went off road and made use of old drove roads and forgotten single track byways, along with various sections of mountainous terrain and bog trotting.

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Training ride in Torridon, near Loch Carron Photo Adventure Syndicate

Lee Craigie, founder of the Adventure Syndicate, said they had been excited to take the inspiration for their next challenge from a journey between Hostelling Scotland’s Youth Hostels, first made in the 1930’s, and add their own modern day twist. “Bike technology has evolved since the 1930’s but the mentality of exploration and adventure has always been present,” said Lee. “People have been using bikes to explore remote places for generations so now, with the increased traffic on our roads since this journal was first written, we were keen to explore the offroad alternatives where possible. Our ambitious route around Scotland took us to lots of remote places that cars can’t access. It might have meant slower going and wetter feet but that just made arriving in the evenings at our warm, dry accommodation all the more welcome.” The sisters’ cycle route map

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The idea to recreate, where possible, Mary’s cycling trip in 2021 was born from a chance conversation between Mary’s son, Harvie Paterson, and Karl and Lorna, who manage Hostelling Scotland’s Port Charlotte Youth Hostel on the Isle of Islay. Like his mother, Harvie has been a Hosteller for many years. He has made regular trips to Islay on his bike over the last 12 years. In 2020 he told Lorna that as a Covid-19 Lockdown project he had transcribed the diaries of his Mother’s cycling tour of Scottish Youth Hostels in 1936. The management team at Hostelling Scotland always felt that there was more that could be done to bring this fantastic story to life. Training ride in Torridon, near Loch Carron. The climb out of Kinlochewe Photo Adventure Syndicate

Lee Craigie and Philippa Battye of the Adventure Syndicate on a tour of the North West Scotland, Torridon Photo Adventure Syndicate

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The route chosen by the Adventure Syndicate is a close representation of the original journey. The route took them from Glasgow to Crianlarich, Glencoe, Rattigan, Portree, Torridon, Gairloch and Aviemore. This collaborative project between the Adventure Syndicate and Hostelling Scotland aims to promote positive mental health through outdoor adventure, activity and cycling; as well as cycling as an accessible form of sustainable tourism. Passing through Skipness in an earlier trip Photo Adventure Syndicate

Philippa Battye from the Adventure Syndicate in North West Scotland Photo Adventure Syndicate

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Culture

upporting the future of Gaelic S

cotland’s prestigious Gaelic short film competition, FilmG, is looking for the next generation of talented movie makers.

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The competition aims to provide creative youngsters an alternative route into working in Gaelic media and since it began in 2008 it has received over 1,000 entries.

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With dozens of young people ‘graduating’ through the competition into media industry jobs, FilmG has seen entrants go on to do great things, including starring in Netflix series’ The Innocents and working behind the scenes at the Olympics. Last year the competition had a record number of entries, over 100 in total, from both new and experienced filmmakers who used the limitations of lockdown to their advantage and showed their talent for creativity through innovative filming techniques and a variety of subject matters.

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And for the first time, a specially created awards programme was broadcast exclusively on BBC ALBA in place of the traditional awards ceremony in the Old Fruitmarket, Glasgow, due to Covid restrictions. This year, filmmakers will be tasked with creating a film based on the theme of Lorg (Find/Seek) and with twenty awards up for grabs, the FilmG judges will have a tough time to help unearth the Gaelic Steven Spielberg. Schools and communities are encouraged to take part with special awards aimed directly at

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them, and with workshops and industry assistance available, FilmG allows filmmakers of all levels to have a go. “We want to help all those young people who aspire to work in film, TV or even TikTok,” said Debbie MacKay, FilmG Project Manager at Cànan Graphic Studio (CGS). “Young people are constantly making films on their phones, whether five seconds on Snapchat or hours long live streams on Twitch, and we want to develop those practical skills into making fantastic short films.”

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With the FilmG judges recognising skills such as directing, acting and scripting - and new categories aimed at original social media style shorts, the public will also get to vote on their favourite films in the people’s choice categories.

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The deadline for entries is December 13, with the awards ceremony to take place at the Fruitmarket in Glasgow on February 18, 2022.

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Folklore

Folklore Scotland with… Graeme Johncock

he bigger they are… T

here are dozens of stories about Scottish Giants, most of them violent. Finlay the Hunter found that out the hard way. Finlay lived with his sister deep in the woods at the bottom of a large hill. He always told his sister to keep the north windows closed because that’s the direction evil comes from. She’d had enough of being ordered about though. One day when Finlay was out hunting, his sister opened the windows wide. Returning home, Finlay came across a wise, old woman in the

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woods. She warned him that his sister had fallen in love with a handsome, young giant who lay waiting to attack him. Finlay thanked the woman and set off home, prepared for what lay behind his front door. His sister had prepared a large pile of straw in the corner for him to rest on. Instead, the hunter grabbed a pot of boiling water from the fire, throwing it on the heap. The hidden giant screamed in agony as Finlay’s dogs chased him out, followed closely by the crying sister.

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The Lomond Hills Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Giant’s Grave, Arran Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Finlay went back to the old woman, but she told him that his job wasn’t finished. The family of giants would seek vengeance and Finlay would need all his wits to survive. The male giants would come with strength and violence, but the mother would come with tricks. That night, the giant’s older brother pounded on the door. Finlay fired his arrows, the dogs attacked and the giant was struck down. The next night, the father of the giants almost took the roof off before Finlay could defeat him. Finlay was wondering how much more he could handle, when an old lady knocked on his door. She looked fragile and innocent enough, but Finlay stayed on edge. The hounds were growling as she warmed herself by the fire, so she asked if Finlay would tie them up with ribbons. Wise to her tricks, he left them loose around the dogs’ necks. Then in the firelight, he saw the old lady start to grow. She grew until the mother of the giants filled the entire room and screamed at Finlay. He had murdered her family and now it was time to pay.

View from Ben Vorlich Photo by Graeme Johncock

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She started to drag Finlay outside but seeing the danger, the hounds jumped up. The giantess was taken by surprise as they latched on to her limbs. In an epic battle, the hunter managed to pin her to the ground. She offered him riches to let her go, but Finlay killed her where she lay. In gratitude, Finlay asked the wise woman to join him at the Giant’s Cave so they can split the treasure and rescue his sister. The youngest giant was still inside so they lit a large fire, blowing

the smoke into the cave. Out stumbled the scalded giant, wildly swinging a golden sword. Finlay couldn’t get close but to his surprise, the wise woman calmly pulled out a magic wand and struck their opponent dead. Inside the cave was a fortune of riches stolen over the years. Unfortunately, Finlay had been too late to save his sister from the merciless giants, but nobody would live in fear of them ever again.

Woodland Perthshire Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Preacher’s Cave, Arran Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Arts

Island of SCREAMS R

enowned Scottish actress Katie Dickie is one of a number of top names to appear in a new horror movie, Shepherd, which is released to cinemas this month. The film starring starring Tom Hughes, Kate Dickie, Gaia Weiss and Greta Scacchi tells the tale of Eric Black, played by Hughes, as a grief stricken widower who takes job as shepherd on a remote wind-swept island following the mysterious death of his adulterous wife. Stranded alone in the middle of a majestic, weather-beaten landscape in the west of Scotland with its own ominous secret Hughes becomes increasingly embroiled in a fight for his sanity and life.

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The Shepherd stars Tom Hughes, Kate Dickie, Gaia Weiss and Greta Scacchi

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As he descends into a world of madness in the face of a vengeful supernatural force what seemed like a good idea at the time to escape his troubles takes a sinister twist as he quickly realises he can run but he can’t hide from his past. The movie, which had its official launch in October, was picked for showing at the BFI London Film Festival 2021.

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Katie Dickie

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“I’ve followed the BFI London Film Festival for decades, so to actually be a part of it was surreal and a massive honour. I can’t think of a better platform to bring

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Shepherd to an audience and I’m over the moon,” said Russell Owen, writer and director of Shepherd.

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To celebrate the film’s Official Selection at BFI London Film Festival, Darkland Distribution

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released a sinister trailer to give audiences a taste of what hey can expect from the movie.

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Tom Stewart, Acquisitions Director at Darkland Distribution said: “We’re delighted for Russ & his team who have clearly shown such skilled work to receive this recognition in what is a very competitive field of British productions.” The film, which was largely shot on the Isle of Mull and the interior scenes recorded at studios in Dumbarton, features multi-award winning East Kilbride born actor Kate Dickie as Fisher, the local wise but mysterious boat owner who transports Hughes to the island to take up his new job as the shepherd.

Watch Trailer

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History

By Scott Aitken

lmost everybody’s heard about the Jacobite victory at Prestonpans and ultimate defeat at Culloden but few know much about the Battle of Highbridge and its historic importance. It was here, on the 16 August 1745, at a crossing over the River Spean in Lochaber that a small band of Highlanders, outnumbered seven to one, fired the first shots in the rebellion that was to change Scotland for ever. As its name suggests Highbridge is an almost 300ft long, triple arched, stone structure straddling the waters of the river some 60 feet below. It was built by General Wade over a deep gorge at Dròchaid Bhàn, as it was known to the Highlanders. The crossing formed part of a network of military roads to aid troops loyal to the Hanoverian King George II police the Highlands after the 1715 Jacobite rising. It provided a quick link between the garrisons of Inverness, Fort Augustus and Fort William.

High Bridge Photo Ronaldcameron CC BY-SA 4.0

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Just days after the Young Pretender, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, landed on Scottish soil to claim back the throne on behalf of the Stuart dynasty, two companies of redcoats were despatched by General Sir John Cope, commander-in-chief of the Government forces in Scotland, from Fort Augustus to reinforce the garrison at Fort William. Commanded by Captain John Scott the force of around 85 soldiers from the Second Battalion of the Royal Scots regiment set off south on the 32 mile march without incident, until they reached the High Bridge over the River Spean, about eight miles short of their destination.

Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the Young Pretender

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Waiting for them at the crossing was Major Donald MacDonald of Tirnadris with 11 men and a piper from the MacDonald of Keppoch clan. Armed with swords and muskets the outnumbered Highlanders set about trying to fool the redcoats into thinking the Jacobite force was much larger. Using the natural landscape for cover they fired random shots at the government troops as they yelled, ran and leapt from one hiding place to another in an attempt to disguise how few they were. Fearing a massacre Captain Scott ordered a retreat under fire as they were harried and chased by the Jacobites along the side of Loch Lochy. Unfortunately for the redcoats more Jacobites had rushed to reinforce the MacDonalds. In a desperate bid to escape the Hanoverian troops headed towards Loch Oich for the relative protection of Invergarry Castle. But, before they could reach their destination Captain Scott and his beleaguered troops found themselves at Laggan surrounded by the Macdonells of Glengarry on one side and MacDonald of Keppoch’s men on the other.

Sir John Cope

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High Bridge on the River Spean

High Bridge Photo by Steven Brown CC BY-SA 2.0

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Glenfinnan Photo by J.Drevet CC BY-SA 3.0

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Captain Scott, who was wounded in the shoulder and with several of his men dead or injured, had no option but to surrender. He and his surviving men were taken prisoner to Achnacarry House where Donald Cameron of Lochiel arranged for their medical attention and safe keeping. As a spoil of war the defeated captain’s grey gelding was confiscated by Donald MacDonald and given to Bonnie Prince Charlie while the troops were taken to meet the Prince at Glenfinnan. After watching the raising of the rebel Royal Standard on 19 August the redcoats were pardoned by Prince Charles and allowed to make their own way home. Although Captain Scott’s life had been spared his opponents at Highbridge were not so fortunate. While he went on to a successful military career, attaining the rank of General, the man who beat him, Major MacDonnell of Tirnadris, was executed at Carlisle in 1746 for his part in the rising and his head displayed on the town’s gate.

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MacDonnell of Keppoch, whose men had fought so well at Highbridge, was killed leading his clan at Culloden and his people treated brutally during the reprisals carried out by government troops in the aftermath of the rising. There’s not much left of the original battle site, about a mile downstream from the village of Spean Bridge, although historians and archaeologists occasionally uncover spent musket balls buried in the ground. The bridge built in 1737 at a cost of £1,087, was replaced by another built by Thomas Telford in 1819 further up stream. It quickly fell into disrepair and a large section of the structure collapsed in 1913. Only the piers remain and they are protected as a Category B listed building. For anyone venturing to the battlefield today there is a nearby cairn to commemorate the first firefight of the 1745 Jacobite Rising. A metal plaque on the memorial reads:

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Red deer at the Glenfinnan Monument Photo by VisitScotland/Kenny Lam

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ACTION AT HIGH BRIDGE Near this spot on August 16 1745, the first action of the “Forty-Five” took place. Donald MacDonell of Tirnadris with eleven men and a piper from Keppoch’s Clan, by making use of the now demolished High Bridge Inn and surrounding trees to conceal the smallness of their number, succeeded in preventing two companies of The 1st Royal regiment of Foot (later The Royal Scots) from crossing the High Bridge over the River Spean. This force consisting of about eighty five men, had been sent from Fort Augustus to reinforce the garrison at Fort William. ERECTED BY THE 1745 ASSOCIATION

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Property

Fantasy homes with spectacular views By Helen Lloyd

country house with a great view, lots of character and plenty of room for family and friends tops the list of fantasy homes for many buyers. If that’s your dream then The Grange, a six-bedroom elegant house in a tranquil rural location in Strathearn, on the market for offers over £835,000, could be of interest.

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The Grange

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Situated by the historic and unspoilt village of Fowlis Wester a film location for the movie Chariots of Fire, it’s close to the picturesque town of Crieff, the Gleneagles golf resort and the city of Perth.

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The house, which includes a drawing room, billiard room / dining room, family room, dining kitchen and cinema room plus extensive ancillary accommodation, has been finished to an exceptionally high standard with many character features throughout.

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Situated in private grounds - which include lawns and terraces, a small orchard and a paddock - there is a detached double garage/workshop and an outbuilding cleverly converted into an independent home study with a small kitchen, shower room and stores.

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“The Grange is an exceptional country home. The reception rooms, all of which are south facing, provide superb space for entertaining and many beautiful features such as cast iron fireplaces and oak wall panelling,” said Scott Holley of selling agents Galbraith.

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“The grounds are delightful, offering complete privacy and with the benefit of a paddock and beautiful views over Strathearn. This is a rare opportunity to acquire a substantial property finished to the highest standard in an idyllic location.”

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Tullybelton Farm

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For a little less cash Tullybelton Farm, against the backdrop of the impressive hills of Little Glenshee, lies in a rural yet highly accessible part of Perthshire.

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On sale for offers over £650,000 this three-bedroom country property comes with a separate two-bedroom cottage and is ideally situated to enjoy a range of recreational opportunities. The area is renowned for its walking, cycling and golfing opportunities while the ski slopes of Glenshee are within easy reach.

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The City of Perth offers an extensive range of services and facilities while the Royal Burgh of Dunkeld, some 10 miles to the north, has a variety of independent retailers and a railway station with regular links north and south, including the London Sleeper service.

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Beachview Cottages

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For those seeking an even more rural lifestyle complete with a ready-made business, a total of four coastal properties in a truly stunning position in the Outer Hebrides, for offers over £1.5million. Beachview Cottages are situated in Northton, a crofting township set on the beautiful west coast of Harris. Northton is scattered along the side road off the spinal route A859, that leads to a beautiful headland of white sandy beaches, fertile machair, coastal walks and a historic ruined chapel.

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This portfolio of four cottages is a highly successful holiday letting business which was established in 2009 and offers three to five star self-catering accommodation. Each cottage has been sensitively designed to sit comfortably in the landscape while the interiors have been carefully planned to reflect the romance and atmosphere of the beautiful and rugged setting.

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“The sale of Beachview Cottages presents a rare opportunity for interested parties keen to pursue a change of career or perhaps as an alternative investment opportunity. The cottages, which are let from April to September, are fully booked each year with a high level of repeat bookings. However, potential exists to extend the letting season and grow the business further at a time when staycations are soaring and the opportunity to explore the rugged and unspoilt beauty of Scotland’s Outer Hebridean islands is high on people’s wish list,” said Phiddy Robertson, who is handling the sale for Galbraith.

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“Two of the cottages have spectacular views over the golden sands of Scarista beach. Littleknown Northton jewel beaches are just a short walk from the cottages along the paths and tracks that crisscross the machair. The coastline is dotted with an abundance of beaches ranging in size from the small to the threemiles wide Luskentyre, all with stunning views over clear blue seas to the neighbouring islands of the Outer Hebrides, a truly outstanding destination.”

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It is the ultimate ‘get away from itall’ destination. The beaches are popular with surfers and golfers can enjoy a round at Harris Golf Club in Scarista, a first-class links course. For walkers and wildlife enthusiasts, the fertile lowlying ground along the coast is abundant with wildflowers and birdlife, including golden and white-tailed eagles which are regularly sighted in the area.

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Back on there mainland Lower Inchallon set amid the beautiful Pluscarden Valley near Elgin is a great opportunity for multiple generations of the same family to live together, or for a potential purchaser to pursue a range of excellent business opportunities.

Lower Inchallon

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Lower Inchallon includes a traditional farmhouse full of character, two detached energy efficient holiday cottages, an attractive traditional steading and about 6.6 acres of land including garden, paddock and a wonderful amenity woodland.

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Dating from the mid-1890s, Lower Inchallon farmhouse has been improved and extended over the years to create a characterful family home with flexible accommodation including 3/4 bedrooms and 2/3 reception rooms. Sitting adjacent to the house is a converted steading, known as Masons. This two-storey building was used for many years as the owner’s business premises, however it could be used for a variety of purposes or as additional accommodation, subject to the necessary planning consents.

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There are also two cottages, Logie’s Croft and Hunter’s Croft, which date from 2012. They were designed by the well-regarded architect Annie Kenyon, based on the traditional croft house found across the north-east. Each cottage has an entrance porch, a wonderful kitchen/living room with integral appliances and a wood burning stove as well as French doors to a private garden. There is a bathroom and ground floor bedroom as well as a charming mezzanine level second bedroom with en suite shower room.

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The cottages have under floor electric heating with a heat recovery system; Hunter’s Croft also benefits from a 4Kw solar panel array.

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Each cottage has a covered decked seating area with a hot tub and a small garden. The cottages share a Scandinavianstyle barbeque hut seating up to 10 guests, a children’s outdoor play area and a games room.

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The cottages have operated very successfully as holiday lets in recent years, being surrounded by attractive countryside and offering easy access to the beaches of the Moray coast and Findhorn, while being only six miles from Elgin.

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The property is surrounded and sheltered by a mature woodland including a substantial children’s treehouse, while the garden at the farmhouse includes areas of lawn, well stocked borders and various mature trees.

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To the side, a well maintained paddock extending to 0.8 acres with water supply, and a field shelter will suit those with equestrian interests, while two substantial polytunnels and a large greenhouse will appeal to potential smallholders. The property is bounded to the south by a charming small burn set among mature stands of beech and birch trees, which feeds into a small pond.

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Lower Inchallon is for sale through Galbraith as a whole for a Guide Price of £1,000,000 or alternatively the Farmhouse, steading and paddock, excluding the holiday cottages, are available on their own at a guide price of £550,000.

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Anyone looking for more of new property should check out the new luxury homes for sale at Dalnair Estate near Drymen, Loch Lomond.

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Situated in the shadow of historic Dalnair Castle, which dates from 1884, Castle View comprises six five-bedroom luxury homes, formed around a small exclusive cul-de-sac.

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The generously proportioned detached homes come in two different styles - The Oak and The Beech - and are set in extensive private grounds, on the edge of the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park.

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Priced from £725,000, each house-style offer impressive open plan living accommodation, five bedrooms, separate home office and several en-suite facilities. Also on the market is the penthouse apartment in Dalnair Castle itself, which boast its own private roof terrace and is the final available home in the 10-apartment building. It makes royalty living a reality in one of Scotland’s most exclusive castles.

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The three-bed penthouse apartment of Dalnair Castle is formed over three levels, with a choice of lift access or the beautifully detailed, formal staircase. At a fixed price of £650,000 it occupies a top floor position offering a home with not only outstanding views but impressive proportions and specification too. “Not only are we releasing a new phase of luxury homes for sale in the Estate grounds, but our exquisite penthouse in Dalnair Castle, with its own private roof terrace, is now on the market.

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“This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for purchasers to live in luxury in a stunning location with magnificent views over the surrounding countryside, at a truly affordable price,” said Robert Croll, Sales Manager for FM Group.

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“Despite its rural parkland setting, on the edge of worldrenowned Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park, Dalnair Estate is highly accessible, and both Glasgow and Stirling can be reached within a mere 25 minutes.”

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November 2021 This month’s Discover Scotland multimedia magazine has been brought to you by: Sponsors Loch Lomond Seaplanes Glenturret Distillery Lochter Activity Centre Turin Castle Argyll Walks Great Scot Photography

Thank you to all our donors, supporters, patrons and sponsors without whose help producing Discover Scotland and distributing it for free to a global audience would be much more difficult. If you would like more information on how to help us fly the flag for Scotland and all things Scottish

Find out Here Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Views of the Wallace Monument as seen from Dumyat at the western end of the main range of the Ochil hills

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