A RECIPE FOR CONTROVERSY:
FOOD, CULTURE, IDENTITY Kiana George
when we travel, we make an effort to eat “It feels like white people slapping traditional foods prepared by local chefs. I together a bunch of things because they Cultural appropriation — the adopbelieve this exploration of foods supports perceive it as Korean and then profiting tion of customs, practices, or identity of native chefs and enhances appreciation of off of those things,” Dash Kwiatkowski, a a culture by members of another often their heritage. popular stand-up comedian, said. more dominant culture — is everywhere. However, when a more dominant Korean fried chicken is defined by From Halloween costumes to music, culture profits from or gains more the way it is double-fried, resulting in language to hairstyles, roaring debate has exposure than a less privileged group by a shatteringly crisp exterior. However, arisen as ethnic minorities have expressed adopting elements of their culture with Shake Shack is not preparing the chicken that cultural appropriation is harmful and little appreciation for that group’s history using this traditional method. exploitive. And when it comes to food, and experiences, it’s disrespectful and Critics deemed the “Korean-style” the hot topic is reaching a boiling point. problematic. description offensive, saying the broad Sometimes it seems like the outrage Recently, Shake Shack shook up term did a disservice to authentic Korean is performative in an attempt to be their menu, and suddenly, a greasy, flavors and cooking techniques. provocative. Can’t we all just be foodie calorie-inducing sandwich became the Some might ask, “What’s the big friends? However, both the Bay Area and center of heated debate. The restaurant deal? Even the Koreans in Korea liked the Carlmont community are filled with has over 275 locations across the globe, it.” But for those in America who have people from diverse ethnic backgrounds, but the popular dynasty still got burned minority immigrant backgrounds, food so it’s important to understand sensitiviwhen it introduced a limited-time “Koplays a role in preserving their identity. ties around food, culture, and identity. rean-themed” gochujang-glazed fried The controversy is usually not around Not to be confused with cultural chicken sandwich topped with a kimchi who is allowed or not allowed to preappreciation, cultural appropriation of slaw. Gochujang is a Korean ingredient pare dishes, but people get upset when food is different from eating, cooking made of chili paste, glutinous rice and it appears there isn’t respect for cultural and enjoying food from other cultures. fermented soybeans. traditions and practices. For example, I am mixed race, so I have Shake Shack Culinary Director, Mark Lack of cultural respect in relation nostalgic feelings for wonton soup. Just Rosati, said the sandwich is popular at to food is not only inappropriate, but it last week, my Chinese mother cooked their South Korean stores, so they wanted can also be hurtful. When I was a child, I Mexican queso birria tacos, Korean fried to introduce a version of it to their US once brought lotus seed mooncakes to my chicken, Thai khao soi, and African market. Critics immediately accused fifth-grade class for a presentation, and I coconut chicken. We love to seek out Shake Shack of cultural appropriation, still remember feeling stung and embarrecipes from cookbook authors and with several Asian writers coining it as a rassed when some of my white classmates bloggers from different cultures, and lazy interpretation of true Korean food. dramatically spit out what we consider a 12 HIGHLANDER OPINION
