Inked

KIANA GEORGE

The needle pounded at their skin. In, out, in, out, in, out. Little by little, the needle was orchestrating a masterpiece - something that would forever dye their body.

Throughout the world, billions of people get tattoos to express their individuality. Depending on the culture, tattoos can be a sign of nobility or a sign of low class. In some countries like Malaysia or many middle eastern countries, tattoos are illegal. Yet, in Italy, a research study found that 48% of people have at least one tattoo. In Samoa, a person is considered naked without a tattoo. Whether communicating status, a declaration of love, religious or philosophical beliefs, membership or belonging, or simply for fun, tattoos tell a cultural story.

Japanese tattoos

Japan has a long and complicated history with tattoos. Written records from 300 A.D. indicate Japanese men tattooed their faces and bodies as a social norm. However, by 720 A.D, the government began to use tattoos as a punishment to mark criminals, prisoners, and courtesans.

By the early 1900s, the Japanese government outlawed tattoos, believing that people with tattoos were “problematic” and low class. Tattoos became legal again in 1946 due to protests. However, there is still a strong social stigma around them in Japanese society. Even today, Japanese believe those with tattoos are related to the yakuza, a mafialike group in Japan. Yakuza members often tattoo large portions of their bodies to show commitment and strength.

Though Japanese tattoos are now becoming fashionable among Japan’s younger generations and tourists, it is not uncommon to see signs in Japan that prohibit people with tattoos from going to beaches, bathhouses, and gyms. “Heavily tattooed people are still considered dangerous in Japan,” said Jordan LeFever, a tattoo artist from Santa Cruz who specializes in Japanese tattoos.

Traditional Japanese tattoo art is known as “irezumi,” which translates to “inserting ink.” Japanese tattoos are distinct due to their bold, vibrant aesthetic. “Japanese tattooing has a strength of design which is hard to match,” LeFever said.

The imagery often includes brightly colored Japanese motifs like dragons, foo dogs, koi fish, birds, snakes, tigers, cherry blossoms, and chrysanthemums. Samurai, geishas, and Shinto spirit masks combined with waves and clouds are also popular.

“The subject matter in traditional Japanese tattooing has background stories and myths. The style has been developed over thousands of years to fit the body well and convey the stories boldly,” LeFever said.

Tattoo artists, known as “Hiroshi,” apply irezumi by hand using wooden handles and metal needles attached to a silk thread. The tattoos are made with a high-quality ink made from pine soot known as “Nara Sumi,” made in Nara City, Japan.

Though Japan still is not entirely comfortable with tattoos, it’s undeniable that Japanese tattoos are beautiful works of art that are part of Japan’s ancient history and culture.

American tattoos

American tattoos today are a melting pot of cultural tattoo traditions from around the world.

Originally, Native American tribes embraced tattooing to represent rank and status, battle victories, or spiritual symbolism related to nature and animals. However, when Spanish missionaries arrived in the 16th century, they sought to eliminate the practice.

In the mid-1800s, tattoos were reborn when tattoo artist Martin Hildebrandt opened a shop in New York City. His primary customers were Civil War soldiers who wanted a tattoo for identification in case they were killed while fighting. However, society still associated tattoos with lowerclass citizens such as soldiers, sailors, criminals, and circus travelers.

Sailor Jerry, a prominent tattoo artist from the 1940s, is credited with developing a more artistic tattoo style known as American Traditional. Known as the father of the old school tattoo, his experimentation with bright pigments and inks led to the first purple-colored tattoo. His graphic style merged American, European, Polynesian, and Japanese aesthetics. After traveling the world with the Navy, he set up shop in Hawaii and began tattooing sailors and soldiers as they passed through the island. His iconic designs had symbolic meaning for the servicemen. For example, an anchor tattoo symbolized stability, a swallow bird tattoo depicted “return,” shark tattoos symbolized bravery, and skull tattoos represented commitment until one’s dying day.

In the 1960s, tattoos turned into an artistic movement exploring styles from other cultures, such as Polynesian tribal patterns wrapped around the arm, Chinese characters, and the elegant script lettering found in Chicano tattooing.

“The American tattoo is all about the memories associated with the tattoos. When people look back at their tattoo, they want to think about the positive experience they had with the tattoo and the connection they had with their tattoo artist,” said Dave Dobirk, a San Francisco tattoo artist.

As tattoos become more mainstream in American culture,

“THE AMERICAN TATTOO IS ALL ABOUT THE MEMORIES ASSOCIATED WITH THE TATTOOS”

DAVE DOBIRK

artists like Dobirk are taking their passion for the art and transforming it into a successful career in the growing tattoo industry. According to IBIS World, the tattoo market is projected to earn $1.4 billion in revenues in 2022.

“It is hugely satisfying to give someone something that will last with them forever,” said Dobirk.

Samoan tattoos

Historical Samoan legends tell of cultural gods and heroes having tattoos that signified their roles and status within the tribe. Dating back 3,000 years, tattoos or “tatau” are a rite of passage for Samoan males.

When Westerners arrived in the islands in the early 1800s, many tribes were converted to Christianity, and the missionaries outlawed traditional practices like body ornamentation and ritual killings. However, the use of tattoos prevailed, and by the late 1890s, tattoos were accepted by the church as a cultural tradition.

The “Pe’a” is a traditional tattoo that is an integral part of Samoan culture. Anthropologists suggest that Samoans use tattoos to express their identity and experience a sense of belonging as well as connection to the Samoan cultural community.

“Having a tattoo in Polynesia means you are showing people who you are, where you come from, which part of Polynesia you belong to, and the pride you have,” said Takuhei Kaiha, a tattoo artist from the Marquesas islands.

The Pe’a features a symmetrical design consisting of straight black lines of varying thicknesses, geometric shapes, and dots. The tattoo typically begins mid-torso and extends to the knees. Men that do not get a tattoo are called “telefua” or “telenoa” which translates to “naked.”

Samoan males who get the Pe’a gain respect for having the courage to endure the painful tattooing process and their dedication to cultural traditions. Si’i Liufau, a Samoan tattoo artist from Garden Grove, California, told Pacific Standard, “You’re not respected without your tatau. You have to have a tatau to be a full man.”

Historically, bones and tortoiseshell fragments were hit with a mallet to drive the tattoo ink into the skin. Today, a razorsharp steel comb is repeatedly driven into the skin to create the artwork. This process is brutally painful and it can take up to a year to heal completely, and there is a high risk of infection. The procedure is also expensive, and many people have to save for decades to afford the cost.

Those unable to finish the painful process are labeled “Pe’a mutu,” a term of cowardice. According to Samoan tattoo artist Li’aifva Imo Leni in Reuters international news publication, “It’s considered a huge shame upon your family, and that burden is carried through to your children, your children’s children, up until somebody in your family finishes the tattoo in your honor.”

Henna tattoos

Though tattoos are often associated with violence, gangs, motorcyclists, defiance, and rebellion, henna tattoos symbolize beauty, joy, togetherness, bonding, and even family.

Over 9,000 years ago, people in desert regions such as Egypt and the Middle East dried, crushed, and grounded henna plants and used them as a natural sunblock. When the henna dried, people noticed that the plant left a reddish, brown stain on their skin.

These stains led to the idea of using henna as an art form. Initially, people applied decorative henna by putting a large circle in the middle of the palm and coloring the tips. Nowadays, due to the advancement of henna tools, henna designs are much more elaborate and incorporate paisleys, mandalas, geometric designs, and florals.

Showcased at celebrations, special occasions, and religious gatherings, henna body art is used by many cultures. Muslims apply henna as a part of Eid, a worldwide festival that marks the end of the Ramadan fast. Henna tattoos are also common during Hindu religious holidays like Diwali, Karva, or Chaudhry.

“Henna is often considered a pivotal moment which marks the officiation of a special event. For example, a bride in India won’t feel like a bride until her hands are colored red with henna. In many cultures, there are secret meanings attached to henna, such as the darker the color, the more your husband loves you. Or, a bride cannot start any housework until her henna fades,” said Saman Qadri, a San Francisco Bay Area henna professional.

To create the tattoo dye, ground henna is made into a paste and often combined with sugar-lemon syrup to help it stick to the skin. The dye must be left on for four to six hours to achieve a dark stain. Once it dries, it is simply flaked off with a fingernail. The design will initially be neon orange but then turns darker over the next two to three days. After four to five days, the artwork fades away.

“Today, people all over have adopted the ancient tradition of embellishing their bodies with the beautiful natural artwork created from henna,” said Arati Ladda, a henna artist from Fremont, California.

Wrapping it up

Across the globe, tattoos each hold unique meanings, traditions, and origins. The beauty of the tattoo comes from within the connection a person feels to their identity and their ability to forever hold a piece of themselves through permanent ink.

Today, tattoos have become even more mainstream, often showcased on social media platforms like Instagram, and popular amongst celebrities and professional athletes.

“Having a new tattoo is like having a brand new shoe that no one else has. It is like ‘this is me, I am unique,’” Bobrick said.