Wild waters of PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Joanna Smart makes the trek to Papua New Guinea, and discovers this wild, untamed country is simply awe-inspiring both topside and underwater

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOANNA SMART

Papua New Guinea is one of the world’s last great wild places. It’s a place where towering mountains, luscious green rainforests, remote coral reefs and sunken volcano craters combine to create an environment beckoning for exploration. However, paradise here has a sense of rugged, untameable wilderness, where nature still rules unequivocally.

I am struggling to find the words to do this country justice. Pristine is one of the first that comes to mind. Until recently, Papua New Guinea’s contactwith the outside world has been limited. A land of towering terrain, dense jungle and a labyrinth of islands, communication was often limited by geographical means. Even today, only 18 percent of the population live in urban centres. For these reasons, travelling around Papua New Guinea compares to no-where else on earth. Papua New Guinea is a diverse place, both ecologically and culturally. There are over 850 known languages, representing a staggering 12 percent of the world’s languages. Culturally, it is estimated that more than 1,000 distinct groups exist in the country, each with their own customs, language, art, weaponry and architecture. It is also a place with a tumultuous history. Having been ruled by several changing external powers, the country gained independence in 1975. To this day, one of the main challenges of New Guinea is governing hundreds of diverse and isolated communities.

Papua New Guinea contains five percent of the world biodiversity, on only one percent of the world’s landmass. The country is rich in endemic species both above and below the surface with countless species of mammal, bird, fish and invertebrates found nowhere else on Earth. New species are frequently discovered in the area, most recently by an Australian expedition, who discovered three new species of mammal in the country’s interior. Such discoveries are an incredibly rare occurrence in the modern world.

Underwater, Papua New Guinearesembles a figurative garden of Eden. Part of the coral-triangle, this ecoregion contains more than 75 percent of the world’s known coral species and 37 percent of the world’s fish species. Towering seamounts, sunken volcanoes and stunning coral lagoons await any diver who is willing to explore the region.

My journey into Papua New Guinea’s wild places took place in the province in New Britain, 560 kilometres north of the country’s capital, Port Moresby. The largest island in the Bismarck archipelago, this region is volcanic, green and mountainous. Known for its palm oil plantations, the island is flanked to the north by the Kimbe Bay, a globally renowned diving hotspot.

I was in New Britain to join the new liveaboard, MV Oceania, for a ten-day trip around Kimbe Bay, the Witu Islands and Fathers Reef. After being collected from the rural

The experience left me with a taste of what pristine reefs truly look like and a new appreciation for the importance of effective marine conservation

Hoskins airport, transport to the boat involved a scenic ride through small towns, tropical rainforest and palm oil plantations. I arrived at one of the most impressive liveaboards I have seen.

MV Oceania is a 27-metre catamaran with accommodation for 16 guests. Lovingly renovated by Captain Dan Johnson and his local crew, the boat is spacious, modern and provides the perfect platform for comfortable diving. All cabins have ensuites, air conditioning, windows and power outlets, and I can safely say the beds are some of the most comfortable I have ever slept on, be it on land or at sea.

After a briefing and introduction to the friendly and superlative crew, we departed for our first destination, Vanessa’s Reef. Unsure of what to expect, I jumped in the water ready for anything. As I descended into the warm, blue water, my world was transformed into a backdrop of shimmering colour. Schools of fish glinted in the sunshine and soft corals, larger than me, covered the seafloor. As I swam through the jungle of life, I knew that my trip to Papua New Guinea was off to a cracking start.

Our next two dives of the day provided just as much excitement. Joelle’s Reef and Anne Sophie were characterised by giant sea whips, giant sponges and schools of jack and barracuda, which swam around divers like a living river. It was a photographer’s paradise, providing opportunities for the macro enthusiast and wide-angle pro alike. A new opportunity presented itself at every turn. I was quickly beginning to understand why world-renowned underwater photographers list the region as one of their all-time favourite dive sites.

For the next leg of our journey, it was time to make the overnight motor to the remote Witu Islands, to the North West of Kimbe Bay. As the gently rocking of the boat over the choppy seas lulled me to sleep that night, my dreams were of galaxies of silver fish and forests of coral, showing the diversity of life at its finest.

Awaking the next morning I found ourselves anchored off a picture-perfect tropical island, where lush green rainforest met sandy beaches and azure blue seas. As I prepared for the day of diving, a pod of dolphins swam past and I felt myself in a scene from a Blue Planet documentary.

The next three days diving at the Witu Islands proved just as fascinating as the first. A variety of seamounts, walls and drift dives kept providing a plethora of life. Highlights included the creatively named Krackafat, where schools of barracuda, tuna and jacks are so dense they almost block out the sunlight and witnessing two eagle rays mating at the wall dive, Swamp-Tinny.

At night, Captain Dan would take us into a large bay, the remnants of a sunken volcano crater where we were able to explore the sloping crater depths at night. All manner of critters from moray eels to alien-like shrimps could be found on the crater’s edge. Such diving provided an addictive treasure hunt.

After several days of non-stop diving, we pulled anchor and set sail for the remote Father’s Reefs, on the eastern side of Kimbe Bay, where we were to spend the remainder of our journey. Arriving just before dawn, we anchored in mirror-calm water and prepared for our first dives.

Fathers Reefs lie offshore and are made up of several coral pinnacles rising up from several hundred metres. As such, they are known for large inquisitive pelagic species, which can be seen on almost every dive. Friendly turtles, schools of tuna and the healthiest shark population in Papua New Guinea ensure these dive sites are actioned packed and memorable.

We spent our days on seamounts, watching the daily lives of fish, sharks and turtles pass by. Following the standard set in the rest of Papua New Guinea, the corals were healthy and plentiful, adjourned with large sponges, soft corals and sea whips. The seamounts and pinnacles conjured images of large underwater cities, buzzing with highways of sparkling fish.

The reefs remain this way in part due to their remoteness and in part due to the conservation efforts of local organisations who value the importance of such a unique, untouched environment. Upon returning to land, I spent several days at the beautiful Walindi Plantation Resort, whose tropical gardens and beautiful bungalows provide the perfect base for exploring the surrounding region.

Walindi not only introduces tourists to the Kimbe Bay region but also plays an incredibly active role in conserving the underwater environment of New Britain. Founded by the owners of Walindi Resort, Max and Cecilie Benjamin, Mahonia Na Dari is a not-for-profit organisation based in the grounds of the resort who work with local school children, scientists and communities to understand and conserve the natural environment of Kimbe Bay and Papua New Guinea for the benefit of present and future generations. Having reached more than 150,000 school children, the organisation is an exceptional advocate for marine conservation and education within Kimbe Bay and New Britain.

Diving in Papua New Guinea changed my opinion of what is truly wild. The experience left me with a taste of what pristine reefs truly look like and a new appreciation for the importance of effective marine conservation. My ten days at sea left me wanting more - and Papua New Guinea quickly cemented its way into my psyche. n

I was quickly beginning to understand why worldrenowned underwater photographers list the region as one of their all-time favourite dive sites