UK Members’ Newsletter
Issue 2: 2011
Welcome from Susie Hargreaves, Chief Executive I‟m delighted to bring you an update on recent SDC news and activities. We recently held our annual Day of Celebration in Bradford. This included our AGM, during which we welcomed our new president for the forthcoming year, and the event also saw the ratification of a number of new board members. We‟ll bring you a full review and photos in the next issue of The Colourist including news of our medalists and award winners. In this newsletter I‟m also pleased to include news of our 50 year members, reviews of some very successful recent SDC regional events and an update on a number of other key areas for the Society including our work on standards.
REACh SDC is involved with the ukft environment committee. As part of this, the environment committee has prepared its‟ 5th Briefing Note on REACh (the Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals). You should find a copy of the briefing note enclosed with this mailing, and this will also be available to members on the knowledge vault on SDC‟s new website.
British Science Festival update The British Science Festival, one of Europe‟s largest science festivals, visits Bradford from 10-15 September 2011, and we‟re delighted to be involved. Since our last newsletter the planning has been going ahead. In addition to our delivery of „Get up and Glow‟ for the Young People‟s Programme we will be hosting a number of events on 14th September: Ben Craven (www.bencraven.org.uk) will be attempting to answer the question “Why is the world a colourful place?” with his one hour presentation Dr Charlotte Nicklas from the University of Brighton will be exploring how clothes got their colour. This forms part of the festival‟s History of Science section. We are also planning an evening event based around the theme of senses. For further information please contact: richarda@sdc.org.uk
News on Standards SDC has signed an agreement to continue to offer the secretariat on behalf of the British Standards Institute (BSI) for TCI 81 Textiles – colour fastness and colour measurement until July 2016. The Society wrote the very first standards for textile colour fastness through its Fastness Test Committee, which is the forerunner of TCI/81. This is a vital area of the Society‟s work in which we continue to invest our resources and continue to support the development of standards for colour fastness and colour measurement. Our trading arm (SDC Enterprises) produces the quality consumables, developed with the help of industry, to ensure the textile supply chain is efficient and reliable. Did you know? Every standards committee in the UK that looks at clothing and textiles has SDC representation, which includes involvement in the setting of European and International Standards. SDC Staff are happy to answer questions about the use of standards in industry. What is a standard? It is an agreed, repeatable way of doing something. It is a published document that contains a technical specification or other precise criteria designed to be used consistently as a rule, guideline or definition. Standards help to make life simpler and to increase the reliability and effectiveness of many of the goods and services we use. The British Standards Institute (BSI) undertakes the process of standardisation in the UK. BSI in turn works in conjunction with CEN, the European Standards Body and ISO, the International Standards Organisation. For more information about our work on standards, please email: alexf@sdc.org.uk or telephone 01274 761773.
Fashion and Design advisory group The fashion and design sector is a key area of development for the Society. At a recent Midlands Region event we met with representatives from a number of the universities and colleges in the area. Their input was invaluable and we will be taking forward many of the ideas raised to SDC‟s newly-formed fashion and advisory working group. This group will meet for the first time in London in June. Ultimately, this will feed into the development of a fashion and design strategy for the Society. If you are interested in being involved, please contact: marketing@sdc.org.uk
Forthcoming event Title: The Chemistry of Textiles Date: 17 November Time: 13.30 to 17.00pm Venue: SCI Headquarters, Belgrave Square, London Cost: £20 for SDC members, £15 for students We are delighted to be running this half day joint event with SCI, to celebrate the International Year of Chemistry. We hope the event will appeal to members of both organisations and also welcome students to attend. We have an exceptional line up of speakers representing many leading brands. The speakers will be highlighting recent challenges, developments and innovations in the textile industry. Speakers include: The use of chemicals in the clothes you wear – Derek Heywood Anti microbial finishes – Alain Langerock, Devan Chemicals Innovative silicone solutions for the textile industry – Bertrand Lenoble, Dow Corning Photochromic colorants – Andy Towns, Vivimed Labs Europe Ltd Sustainable fabrics – Cheryl Kindness, Camira Fabrics Ltd The conference will be chaired by former MP Brian Iddon, BSc, PhD, DSc (Hull), FRSC, CChem. The event finishes with a drinks reception and for those who wish to stay, there is a free evening lecture which starts at 18.30pm. This will be delivered by Professor Subash Anand and is entitled „Nonwoven Fabrics in Healthcare and Medical Devices‟. Booking will be through SCI, and will open shortly. In the meantime, for further details please email: marketing@sdc.org.uk
50 year members It is always a particular pleasure to give recognition to our 50 year members, and we have a number of members reaching this significant milestone in 2011. They include George Aird, Charles Myring, Clifford Berry, Alexander Dawson, John Oldroyd, John Martin, David Barker and John Douglas. At the recent London region AGM John Radford was presented with his certificate by Derek McKelvey (photo: right). We‟re delighted to profile some of our 50 year members below: John Radford CCol ASDC A former employee of Marks and Spencer, many of John‟s colleagues turned out to celebrate his 50 year award. In a moving presentation, John said that he had two pillars in his life – his wife Jean and SDC. John said afterwards: „I just wanted to let you know how much my SDC membership and ASDC mean to me. I felt greatly honoured to meet the Chief Executive, Susie Hargreaves and SDC President John Morris and have them at the presentation‟. At the recent Midlands region AGM three members (John Burton, David Constant and Richard Hawkes) were presented with their 50 year certificates by John Morris. David Constant flew over from the USA, where he now lives, to receive his certificate and meet up with old friends. (Photo left to right: Richard Hawkes, David Constant, John Burton and John Morris). John Burton CCol ASDC John joined SDC in 1961 whilst a Dyehouse Laboratory Assistant at N Corah (St. Margaret‟s) Ltd in Leicester and studying part-time for his ASDC at Leicester Polytechnic. He met his fellow 50 year members (David Constant and Richard Hawkes) whilst at Leicester Poly. He gained his ASDC in 1966 and was the first person to receive the Society‟s Turner Scholefield Award. His career included working at Sketchley Ltd, Alliance Dyes & Chemicals, before joining Textured Jersey as Technical Director till the Company ceased trading in 2003. He went on to do some consultancy until he decided retirement was a better life. He served on the Midland Region Committee in the 1980s. David Constant CCol ASDC David started as Works Chemist at Wm. Lacey Dyers in Loughborough before joining Catomance, where he worked for 17 years. He joined Hodgson Chemicals in the UK, before moving to Hodgson Process Chemicals Company in the USA in 1998. He has since been involved in Export Sales for various US dyestuffs companies, and is now working part time
for a machinery company developing sales in a variety of industries including the textile industry in the USA. Richard Hawkes CCol ASDC Richard joined SDC 1961 whilst a Trainee Dyeworks Chemist at W E Saxby (Leicester) Ltd. Like David and John, he trained in the local dyeing industry whilst studying part time at what was then simply known as Leicester Tech. “Part time” was actually two afternoons, two evenings and Saturday mornings for six years, in addition to holding down a job…not for the faint-hearted! After qualifying as an ASDC, he worked as a Research Chemist for Sericol in London, before returning to the Midland dyeing industry. In 1998 he became a consultant, ultimately for Yorkshire Chemicals Ltd. Joining Yorkshire proved to be a defining moment in his career as it took him to the Far East where he spent the rest of his working life. Comments Richard: „along the way SDC has always been important to me. I joined the Leicester Student Section in 1961 and then the Midland Region committee in the 1980s, finally becoming Chairman of the Midland Region in the mid 1990s. I was also a member of the Membership Activation Panel in Bradford for many years and was awarded the Society‟s Silver Medal in 2003 for services to the Society and the industry‟. Derek Byrne It is with great sadness that we report that Derek Byrne, former SDC President and Honorary Treasurer recently passed away before he could be presented with his 50 year certificate.
Regional Event Reviews It has been a busy time recently, with many of the UK regions holding their AGMs and heats of the SDC International Design Competition. Here‟s a round-up of recent events: North of England Region Title: AGM and heat of the SDC International Design Competition Date: 1 March Venue: Huddersfield University Around 100 people, including many students attended this recent event which included the AGM and heat of SDC‟s International Design Competition. An enjoyable evening included presentations from Richard Ashworth, SDC‟s Colour Experience Manager, and Cheryl Kindness of Camira Fabrics who both gave excellent, very well received talks. Midlands Region Title: AGM and heat of the SDC International Design Competition Date: 10 March Venue: Loughborough University This very successful event was attended by over 100 students and SDC members. The evening included the AGM, followed by the re-election of the regional committee and award of 50 year memberships. Then Raf Mulla from X-rite Europe gave an entertaining talk about colour and Rachel Webley and Rebecca Bennett from Speedo International
talked about their experience of working with colour on high performance garments. The evening also included the regional heat of SDC‟s International Design Competition. London Region Title: AGM and Ismar Glasman Memorial Lecture Date: 14 April Venue: Marks and Spencer Attended by over 50 members this event included the AGM, with a new Chairman (Ian Smith) and Honorary Secretary (Sue Williams) elected. This was followed by the presentation of a 50 year member award to John Radford. Graham Burden then presented the Ismar Glasman Memorial Lecture. Graham was an employee of Marks and Spencer for 34 years until his retirement in 2008. Ismar Glasman was also a former employee of M&S, and this annual lecture was introduced in 2005 in memory of him. Graham‟s lecture was entitled „It‟s just cotton – but not as we know it‟. Graham talked about how cotton has been used by humans for 7000 years. It has shaped the history of nations and international trade. It is the largest non food crop in the world. But what do we really know about the fibre that we take for granted? And will it be with us in the future? The answer, of course, is that it will, but perhaps not as we know it, as Graham highlighted in his talk. His presentation raised many questions and left the audience wanting more! London Region Title: Everything you need to know about children‟s wear. Date: 15 April Venue: London College of Fashion (photo left to right: Sonya Thomas, Lisa Allen, Sue Bolton and Simon Allitt)
Thanks to Sue Williams, who reports on this recent event. The full version of the article can be downloaded from our website. The seminar was another excellent joint event between the London sections of SDC and the Textile Institute. The attendance was in excess of 140 the best yet! Jean Perry Chair and Hon Secretary of TI London, Chris Thierry Chair of the TI London region and Ian Smith Chair of the SDC London Region welcomed everyone to the event. Lisa Allen Technical Manager of REACh ready Lisa gave a wonderfully clear insight into the legislation. REACh is an EU legislation reducing the impact of chemicals on industry and products in order to protect workers and consumers. REACh is an abbreviation for Registration Evaluation Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals and came into force in 2007, taking 40 pieces of legislation and integrating them. It is managed by the European Chemicals Agency ECHA, based in Helsinki, and helps businesses to manage chemicals for the safety of everyone from inception to their use in manufacturing and finally their disposal.
The legislation seeks to change businesses, not to break them. There is a push by NGO‟s to inform consumers about chemicals of high concern - the „Candidate List‟. This list compromises 46 substances and any of these chemicals are illegal. There are enforcement agencies catching irresponsible retailers who do not know what is happening within the supply chain. There hasn‟t been a prosecution yet but if there is one then the flood gates may open. The advantages for companies in complying are that they won‟t be black listed, their brand won‟t be risked and that it can be said they conform to industry standards. (photo below shows Lisa Allen and Oliver Dyer)
Sonya Thomas M&S Children‟s Wear Technologist: - Integrating Safety into Design - Mini Me Sonya talked about designing with safety in mind, a current essential given that children were very aware of celebrity culture and children‟s wear tends to mirror adults but safety has to be incorporated. Retailers are under pressure to deliver fashionable clothing for children whilst protecting their brand name from costly liabilities and customer dissatisfaction arising from safety issues. Sonya pointed out different age groups needed different safety considerations. She showed examples of product recalls from pom poms on shoes which caused children to trip to a hooded baby jacket which was too big and could cause suffocation. Modesty in styling also needs to be considered and modification of adult designs like a plunging neckline would have a T-shirt top beneath it. In conclusion Sonya said that fashion products had to be delivered keeping safety in mind by carrying out risk analysis. Any children‟s wear garments found to be unsafe and resulting in public recalls or legal liability dents the brand image and the trust of consumers is hard to regain. Sue Bolton Consultant and Convener of the CEN group on safety of children‟s clothing. (CEN is Committee European d‟Nomalisation). Sue is currently convenor of the CEN TC24 committee which is responsible for standards of textiles and textile products, and also the WG 20 on the safety of children‟s clothing. Currently within CEN some 90 people in 30 countries develop the standard and specification to meet the requirements of the market. In some countries such as the UK legislation existed prior to the Common Market which had become a barrier to introducing a revised standard. The overriding criteria stated that all products had to be safe for the longevity of that product within a reasonable and foreseeable use. Sue defined the legislation as being mandatory and standards as being voluntary but the latter is a way of showing compliance. Sue concluded that retailers should not use names for products to try to sideline the use of legislation (eg using „leisurewear‟ for „sleepwear‟) and that it is never wise to compromise safety. Simon Allitt Account Manager SGS - Children‟s wear testing Simon explained they test because there is a legal obligation, a performance requirement and a commercial reason. The testing provides quantitative and qualitative data. If testing isn‟t carried out there could be legal proceedings, bad publicity and high returns with the resulting costs from products being removed from store and the cost of rework. Risk assessment has to be carried out by retailers as they have a legal obligation to ensure
products are safe, and to consider reasonable and foreseeable circumstances of use and misuse. SGS is an independent laboratory and provides confidential testing. They have laboratories in 40 countries dealing with textiles and clothing. Simon went through a series of machines used for different tests. For children‟s wear flammability is at the top of the list, with pull tests and wash durability following. Sharp edges and possible items for choking are tested where there is a standard child‟s throat represented by a plastic tube. Toxicity, fastness to saliva, urine, pile loss, UV penetration are all tested, as well as testing for REACh restricted substances where pH values are measured especially for denim. Simon summarised by saying that tests are used to ensure the product is safe and fit for purpose and is essential to cover legal requirements. Oliver Dyer Skew Studio Children‟s wear Licensed Products Oliver gave a very enjoyable talk about taking entertainment brands from screen to merchandise (shelf). Oliver‟s team has worked on Nickelodeon, Shoot for Rag Doll, Tinga Tinga Tales, Dr Who and Charlie and Lola. These brands are offered as licences to retailers. The merchandise market is vital. There are now 450 new programmes being considered worldwide, of which 80 brand licenses are being considered. SKEW get involved right at the start. They help to translate the brand and often use narrative on the merchandise to help relate the character to print applications. They go through a rigorous development process. Oliver showed some of the products SKEW had produced – their methodology ensures brand assurance and longevity.
And finally… Congratulations to Bradford based Bulmer and Lumb who were recently asked to dye, comb, spin, weave and finish a bale of wool into two top quality bolts of cloth which will be made into suits and presented as wedding gifts to Prince William and Kate Middleton. The raw wool was supplied by members of the Australian Wool Growers, each donating a few kilos of their finest merino wool. The two lengths of luxurious worsted – a grey pinstripe for Prince William and a plain grey flannel for Kate, will go to Royal tailors Anderson and Sheppard in Savile Row, who will tailor the final garments. Society of Dyers and Colourists, PO Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, West Yorkshire BD1 2JB, England. T: +44 (0)1274 725138 F: +44 (0)1274 392888 E: info@sdc.org.uk W: www.sdc.org.uk