The Unique Town of McLeod Ganj

THe unIQue TOwn OF mCleOD GanJ

Whilst restrictions of Lockdown have prevented us from travelling to far-flug places, here is a trip down ‘memory lane’ from Seaford resident, val Franklin, when she visited India in 2001.

It is really cool up here. After the thrashing monsoon rains and breath-sucking humidity of Delhi and Rishikesh, it is a welcome relief. Gripping onto a small plateau in the Dhauladar Range of mountains at the foothills of the Himalayas, this quaintly named town of McLeod Ganj (photo right) is a unique blend of tradition and modern, Government in Exile. After the Chinese invasion of drab and colourful, unknown and world renowned. Tibet which caused enormous turmoil, anguish and Over two thousand metres above sea level, pristine blue horrendous suffering for the Tibetan people, the Dalai skies radiate purity in direct contrast to the filth on the Lama escaped in 1959 in the hopes of achieving reprieve ground. Eagles soar relentlessly in the skies. and support from Western countries. On arrival in India, The local bus journey from Dharamsala, was a test of endurance. The bus juddered its way up steep, winding the benevolent Indian Government offered him and his people hospitality and a safe refuge. roads, swinging around hairpin bends which drop In this unique situation, the Dalai Lama built a temple hundreds of feet into chasms below, I felt I needed on the edge of a plateau and started giving teachings on nerves of steel and the constitution of an ox to survive. Buddhist philosophy. His compassion, humour, sincerity The lolling head of the Indian man next to me fell on my and devotion quickly earned him a reputation which has shoulder as he snoozed. encouraged and attracted many thousands of followers, Forests of pine and red rhododendron trees squeeze this quaint town and its narrow, potholed roads into a tight band. Buildings beleaguered by harsh rains and strong suns offer the visitors a blend of Tibetan cafés selling momos and noodles, Indian biryanis and kormas, Kashmiri shawls and carpets. Interspersed are modern, clean and well-lit shops with an array of rare commodities in small Indian towns such as Tahini and devotees and even non-believers from almost every country, nationality and religion in the world. A popular walk is the Lingkor, a pathway lined with ubiquitous prayer flags and mani stones and hugging the side of this plateau, it encircles the Dalai Lama’s residence. Apart from affording magnificent views down the valleys, devotees believe that by circumambulating it and saying heartfelt mantras, negative deeds can be purified. peanut butter, Lipton’s tea and chocolate cakes. Liquor It is to this extraordinary town, that thousands of people, stores sit shoulder to shoulder with laundries and some just curious, others searching for answers, come the shelves of Tibetan handicraft shops overflow with for hope and salvation. They are seldom disappointed. brocade wall hangings, ritual objects such as bells, prayer Many return year after year, many find accommodation wheels and flags, delightfully painted tea mugs and bowls, and the means to support themselves for months and woolen blankets. A video hall advertises ‘5 Movies or years at a time. I was one of them. I arrived with a Day’ on a blackboard. It is very dark inside with black a backpack and a leap of faith, and stayed for 18 curtains and wooden benches. And no popcorn. years. Despite a deluge of expected and unexpected Along the roads, there are no pavements. Vendors sit knitting and chatting with their beautifully created turquoise and coral jewellery, yak wool shawls and gilets displayed on makeshift tables lining the streets. challenges, I also found a pot pourri of cultures, languages and traditions in a melting pot of tolerance, friendliness, hospitality, kindness and extreme enthusiasm for learning and wisdom, rooted in the ancient Indian philosophy 3,000 years old. This is the setting for one of the most famous leaders Val Franklin of the world – the 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan 116 Please mention Seaford Scene when contacting advertisers

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