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events ST.MAARTEN

THE ISLAND GUIDE

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MAP

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A-Z Lexicon Guide to the latest luxury lingo

RESTAURANTS 20 of the best restaurants by the water

Active Vacation To challenge your body and free your mind.

WIN!

NEW ACCESSORY

Super-stylish watches

THE WOW FACTOR

Style and extravagance a short boat ride away

A VACATION AT THE CLIFF >> SEE PAGE 40 >> SXMEVENTS.COM/WIN



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features WINTER 2010

14 CRUISING INTO 2010

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Though not plain sailing for the cruise lines travelers can expect a vintage year

18 DREAM TICKET

Good things come in small sizes at Shiva’s Gold & Gems

20 SHOPPING LEXICON

Confused by clarity? Bamboozled by zebra? Read our guide to the latest luxury lingo

30 WATCH THIS

Watches are ever evolving here we have some of the latest models to hit the shops in 2010

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contents 36

36 ACTIVE VACATION

Whether your idea of adventure is ashtanga or zip-lining, this collection of energetically indulgent activities will challenge your body and free your mind.

40 ISLAND MAP 42 TOWN MAPS

Handy pull out island road map and shopping maps of Philipsburg and Marigot.

54 BUYING A CAMERA

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Digital technology has revolutionized the way we take, view and store images. Here, we explain the latest developments to help you find the right equipment.

62 HERE COMES THE SUN

From wild pansy to rosehip oil, sun care has entered a new era of innovation.

66 RESTAURANTS

We mention 20 of the best restaurants by the water; for a good meal looking out across the water.

72 THE WOW FACTOR

20 51st year 2010

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Style and extravagance are just a short boat ride away. Forget day trips and spend the night in the epitome of luxury

76 FACTS & FIGURES

From banking to tipping here you will find useful information for your vacation

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events St.Maarten

WeLCome I love st Maarten. I always have, and hopefully always will. Jewelfilled stores, ocean-scented trade winds, French patisseries, ribs shacks and dollar beer, the roar of jet engines of Maho Beach, the insistent rhythm of steel pan and drum at Carnival on Frontstreet, windsurfing until your arms ache and your back’s pink, masses of margaritas at non-stop parties: these are a few of my favorite things.

The annual vacation has its inimitable place in the yearly calendar. Frequently responsible for dreams of escaping the rat race and general over-indulgence, it is everyone’s need for a little me-time. Many an action that would appear to be a little, well, self-indulgent at any other time of the year so often appears irresistible on vacation. Why not, you’ve earned it. And that’s why in this issue’s shopping pages we have concentrated our attention on a lexicon of must-have jewelry and accessories from page 22. Digital technology has revolutionized the way we take, view and store images, so from page 54 we explain the latest developments in this fast changing digital world. Whether your idea of adventure is ashtanga or zip-lining, we have a collection of energetically indulgent activities that will challenge your body and free your mind from page 36. Separated by only a few nautical miles, the islands of St Barts and Anguilla are twin beacons of style and extravagance. From page 72, we have selected four hotels that capture the ethos of quiet sophistication. Finally, from page 68, out of the hundreds of great places to eat in St Maarten we have selected twenty waterfront restaurants. Speaking of taste, who could resist the full-blown tacky gorgeousness of our cover girl dancing on the beach? For what would a vacation be without a bit of kitsch? It all adds up to a particularly special issue of events, which we have had a hugely enjoyable time compiling. So escape away.

Carina Longbottom editor c.longbottom@seagrass.ai

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events St.Maarten

* Issue 51 (1959-2010) Publisher

Michael Dingemans m.dingemans@seagrass.ai

Editor

Carina Longbottom c.longbottom@seagrass.ai

ArtLeeDirctor Smith

lee.smith@scw.uk.com

Contributers

Martha Culliton, Lara Dingemans, James Johnston, Molly Slater, Erich Kranz, Barfly

Design SCW

www.scw.uk.com

Picture retouching Marcus Harvey marhar2005@gmail.com

production Mike Frost mike@phmedia.com

Smooth OPERATOR Keith Anspach keith@phmedia.com

PrePress

Picture House Media info@phmedia.com

Distribution Cees (599) 548 3331

St. Maarten Events is published by: SeaGrass (Publishing) Limited PO Box 329, The Valley, Anguilla, B.W.I. E-mail: corporate@seagrass.ai Represented on St. Maarten by: IRP NV, PO Box 228, Philipsburg, St. Maarten, N.A. tel.: (559) 586 3880 or London +(44 20) 8392 0644 fax: +(44 20) 8338 3980 Cover picture; istock.com/aleksandar velasevic Photographs in this issue also by; James Johnston, Marcus Harvey Colour and origination: Picture House Media, Victoria Square, Roche St. Austell, Cornwall, PL26 8LQ, UK. tel.: +(44 1726) 891111 Copyright © 2010 by SeaGrass Limited. All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be printed or otherwise duplicated, either in whole or in part, without express written permission from the publisher. The opinions, endorsements and recommendations contained in this magazine are not necessarily representative of the publisher and the publisher shall not be held responsible for any reliance thereon. All prices mentioned herein are subject to change without notice. With this issue I would like to thank ‘Specifically Ian’ of SCW for doing most of the graphic work in-between sorting out his streaming music player. Of course include Lee of SCW and Ralph of PH Media for getting us through another year. No thanks to the severe winter weather that held up the works and confounded us all. I would also like to remember my friend Robin Wilter who died early 2010 after a his battle with cancer. Robin gave me my first real job when fresh out film school back in the late 1970’s so we go way back; he was a great supporter and will be missed. I had expected to drink a lot more rosé with him, while discussing the complexities of cricket. Makes you think.

Multa, tuli fecique Motto of Sir Richard Arkwright whose inventions were a catalyst for the Industrial Revolution.

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Cruising into

.cruising

2010 It won’t be plain sailing for the cruise lines but travelers can expect a vintage yeaR. For the past few decades, the cruise lines have reaped substantial rewards from the seemingly endless queue of people lining up to experience travel on the ocean waves. Will this year be any different? Of course it will. The recession and the capacity added by new launches – 16 ships will be added to the fleet in 2010 – mean that even this leviathan has had to bend to market forces and add something extra: lower prices. Granted the industry is expert a clever discounting but the new thing now is unprecedented discounts. Even the luxury sector, which has traditionally refused to do deals, has had to offer complimentary flights, excursions and generous onboard credits. Silversea Cruises has already announced the “biggest savings incentive” in its history. For instance, a 15-night transatlantic cruise from San Juan to Barcelona (via St Maarten and Antigua) on the luxurious Silver Cloud departing in April 2010 is subject to 60 per cent savings, free economy class airfares from selected US gateways and a $500 shipboard credit per couple. Similarly Regent Seven Seas Cruises is offering free shore excursion and round-trip economy class airfares on all cruises. Discounts on 2011 cruises (if booked before March 31, 2010) are even more generous with savings of up to $3,000 per passenger.

NEW SHIPS

Royal Caribbean is taking cruising to a new level with Oasis of the Seas, the world’s largest cruise ship. The 750-seat outdoor amphitheatre that will host aquatic shows.

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This year will see the biggest-ever growth the in the global cruise fleet and the introduction of a new generation of ‘mega-ships’. Just when you thought things couldn’t get any bigger, Royal Caribbean is taking cruising to a new level with Oasis of the Seas, the world’s largest cruise ship. It can carry over 5,500 guests and rises about 20 stories high. Its massive size (five times larger than the Titanic) means that it can offer some amazing amenities including a zip-wire suspended across the deck, an ice rink, a bar than descends between decks, a small golf course and a 750-seat outdoor amphitheatre that will host aquatic shows. Its sister ship, Allure of the Seas, is scheduled to begin sailing a year later.

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.cruising

.Oasis of the Seas rises about 20 stories high. The 153,000-ton Norwegian Epic, the latest offering from NCL, is due to launch in summer 2010. While not as large as Oasis of the Seas, with just 4,200 passengers, it will have similarly novel features; among them an ice bar and a sprawling aqua park with the only inner tube water-slide at sea. The luxury-cruise market, too, will provide a greater choice of vessels next year. Silversea Cruises added the new Silver Spirit to its fleet at the tail end of 2009 and in June, Yachts of Seabourn will launch the Seabourn Sojourn. The latter is a sleek but relatively intimate vessel: it has cabins for 450 passengers and will look less like a cruise ship and more like the mega-yachts parked in the marina at Isle de Sol by Saudi sheikhs and Russian oligarchs. Its maiden Caribbean voyage will take it to Marigot in November where it will no doubt look right at home. Among the premium cruise lines launching larger ships in 2010 are Cunard (with the Queen Elizabeth), Oceania Cruises (Marina) and Holland America Line (Nieuw Amsterdam ).

NEW ITINERARIES The continued allure of sailing in the Caribbean means that both of the biggest cruise ships in the world, Royal Caribbean’s Oasis of the Seas and Allure of the Seas, will feature yearround itineraries in the region (when the latter launches in December 2010). As a result, huge changes have had to be made to accommodate

these massive 220,000-ton behemoths with the opening of the largest cruise terminal in the world at Port Everglades in Florida and new docks at various islands capable of dealing with over 5,000 passengers at a time. As well as local favorites like St Maarten, St Thomas and Nassau, other islands will continue to develop their infrastructure, among them the port of Falmouth in Jamaica and Royal Caribbean’s private resort of Labadee on the north coast of Haiti. The steady growth in this already highly developed sector of the market- 5% in 2009 with demand still outstripping supply – has further increased the popularity of St Maarten and neighboring islands as cruise destinations: 1.28 million cruise passengers visited the island last season, each passenger spending an average of $179 per person. This appears to refute the common misconception that the majority of passengers just buy the odd t-shirt or cheap souvenir. Indeed an estimated $200 million per year is pumped into the local economy by the cruise industry, though some still fear that the widespread use of discounting will bring those people to the island with fewer dollars in their pockets to spend when they get there. However, in the fly/cruise category it is the Far East that appears to be the up-and-coming cruise area with Royal Caribbean recently signing a deal with to develop Shanghai as a key port of call. It retains an off-the-beaten track appeal and gives travelers a chance to experience many different cultures and countries in one trip. Popular itineraries include busy cities such as Singapore, Hong Kong and Bangkok and the more exotic Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the scenic beauty of the Thai and Vietnamese coastlines and some of the more remote Asian islands. 4

Land ahoy . ... ... Get to St Maarten in style aboard the Star Flyer, a 170-passenger tall ship with teak decks, two pools and an indoor-outdoor pool bar, leaving Balboa in Panama in March, sailing through the Panama Canal past the San Blas Islands to Catagena in Colombia and then on to the Dutch islands of Aruba and Curacao, the British Virgin Islands and St Bart’s arriving at Philipsburg two weeks later on 3 April www.starclippers. co.uk. From £2,325 plus £260 port charges per person full board, excluding flights

Oasis of the Seas has some amazing amenities including a zip-wire suspended across the deck and a small golf course.

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.shopping

Shiva’s goLd &gems shIva’s golD & geMs has been owneD anD operateD as a faMIly busIness for three generatIons

dream ticket

For over 35 years, they have been known for the quality and innovative design of their collections. Since Jay Alwani took over the family business, Shiva’s has also rapidly become known among the fashion cognoscenti as the place to buy stylish jewels. Over the years Shiva’s have built up an extensive collection of fine Swiss-made watches and designer jewelry; and have dedicated themselves to becoming a quality diamond retail store, specializing in their own collection of diamonds and diamond jewelry set ablaze with brilliance and intrigue. Their collection includes a variety of earrings, bracelets and rings in breathtaking styles of splendor like the one featured on this page.

Good things come in small sizes: Shiva’s magnificent solitaire diamond ring. Natural fancy yellow cushion cut 20 carat diamond solitaire, flanked by diamonds on either side and surrounded by pavé set yellow and white diamonds. Price available on request

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>>If you don’t know your jewelry, know your jeweler>> Shiva’s represents some of the most prestigious brands, such as Harry Winston, Carl F Bucherer, Blancpain, Franck Muller and Gerald Genta. “I always look for the absolute best I can find,” says Jay whether it is a rare pink, canary or Asscher-cut diamond, a Colombian emerald or natural pearl. Jay uses his stunning signature designs to create modern, fashion-led jewels with timeless appeal. Visit their store in Frontstreet for Shiva’s excellent and impressive personal service.

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Lexicon

confuseD by clarIty? baMboozleD by zebra? Don’t panIc. Just reaD our guIDe to the latest luxury lIngo

aquaMarIne

ballerIna It’s time to ogle at natural wonders and there is no greater treasure to behold than at Ballerina’s treasure trove of 14 and 18kt gold and fine jewelry. Invest in the addictive pleasures of these stackable Hidalgo rings.

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ILLUSTRATION: the lester anD sue sMIth geM vault

Aquamarine has returned to the center of the jewelry universe. Not that it ever strayed but now a new generation is discovering its subtle beauty. The gem to wear this season is the classic - dive into the blue with pale aquamarines.

certIna

c

As this season’s runaway appetite for watches that look good but also endure proved, it’s worth investing in the Certina DS Action (DS stands for Double Security). What makes this watch odds-on favorite to withstand all that you can throw at it is that virtually everything has been thrown at it. The latest testing involved inserting it into a hockey puck during a practice game and whacking it at 120 km/h; it emerged unscathed. Available from Caribbean Gems.

DIaManteur Everyone should have the number of a good diamanteur in their address book – a diamond expert who can find a loose stone as well as arrange personalized designs. With diamonds dropping in price on the wholesale market, this might be the time to grab yourself a bargain.

d frInges

Combine this year’s Brazilian trend with flirtatious fringed jewelry that has all the swing and sex appeal of the continent itself. Chandelier necklace, from $3,000 at Trident Jewelers.

eyes Look around and you’ll find many eyedesign pendants and rings, worn as a protective symbol against the Evil eye. Aaron Basha makes pretty enamel and gold eye bracelets, pendants and charms – just right for warding off bad luck this season. Available from Little Europe Jewelers and Goldfinger.

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IMAGE: KerI russell/freDerIcK M. brown

A

.A-Z Lexicon

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.Watches

WATCH THIS

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Girard-Perregaux’s latest creation offers a stylish take on traditional watchmaking, integrating a column-wheel chronograph in an elegant case from its GirardPerregaux 1966 collection. Available at Art of Time and Artistic in Philipsburg.

watch branDs are ever evolvIng anD here we have soMe of the latest MoDels to hIt the shops In 2010

FRANC VILLA

A year after the appearance of its famous FVa No 6 SuperLigero Concept, Franc Vila now introduces a flying chronograph tourbillon based on nanotechnology. Franc Vila has met a longstanding challenge: to create an infinitely light, ultra-resistant movement. Limited edition of 8. Similar available at Ballerina Jewelers.

RAYMON WIEL

With its avant-garde design and impressive dimensions, the new Don Giovanni Version Large chronograph will appeal to all men who think big. The highly complex, hand-assembled, automatic movement is visible through the transparent back. Available at Majesty Jewelers.

HERMES

This new timepiece from the Arceau collection is dressed in chestnut livery, elegantly interpreting the brandís original source of inspiration, the world of horsemanship. Its Swift calfskin strap as well as its numerals and hourmarkers acclaim the brandís theme for the year, ‘The Great Escape’. The Arceau transcends time with the bold simplicity of a grand classic. Available at Platinum Mine in Philipsburg, Passions and Hermes in Marigot.

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HARRY WINSTON

A declaration of style and sophistication, this exceptionally large modern interpretation raises the legendary Avenue line to new heights by exploring the dualities of shapes and functions. The traditional rectangular shape is revisited in an extra-large case with new proportions, while a sumptuous diamond-setting (5.36 cts) gives the pure, slender lines the most feminine of graphic effects. Available at Shivas Gold & Gems.

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.Watches

PATEK PHILLIPE

Patek Philippe presents its legendary Nautilus in a feminine version, in white or pink gold with or without a diamond-set bezel and with a silvered white or anthracite dial. The exclusive design of the original Nautilus dial, a sport-chic watch par excellence. Available at Jewels by Love.

by LOVE

when you neeD a breaK froM the beach, MarIgot’s chIc shoppIng scene offers plenty of local color

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

With a totally new self-winding movement developed from the ground up, the Lange 1 Daymatic adds a further chapter to the success story of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous timepiece family. Its discreet distinguishing feature is a mirrored dial layout. A retrograde day-of-week indication forms the perfect counterpoint to the outsize date display. Available at Jewels by Love.

IWC

One of watchmaking’s genuine legends of the last century from IWC Schaffhausen is now back in a new guise: the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph introduces a sportingly elegant note into the Portuguese family. True to type with its consummately neat dial and Arabic numerals. Available at Jewels by Love.

ULYSSE NARDIN

New titanium version of the highly emblematic Maxi Marine Diver. This COSC-certified chronometer is housed in a new sporty 45-mm titanium case equipped with a structured unidirectional rotating bezel in alternating titanium and pink gold. Available at Jewels by Love.

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The famous, fashionable neighborhood of rue Charles de Gaulle is known for its shopping, with the smart storefront of fashion brands such as Hermes and Longchamp alongside charming, colonial-era houses, now home to exclusive jewelry shops and womenswear boutiques. Love Mahtani’s eponymous Jewels by Love stores, the fifth generation in an illustrious line of traditional jewelers and diamond mavens, stocking exquisite works of ‘heirloom caliber’ jewelry and watches is a must-visit. The splendid collection of meticulously selected, masterfully cut diamonds and other gems, loose or set, predominantly in 18 carat gold and platinum is incredibly popular with the island’s fashionable set and has also earned an enthusiastic overseas following as well.

>> exquisite works of ‘heirloom caliber’ jewelry and watches >> Each and every piece from Jewels by Love comes infused with its inimitable history, drama and glamour. As the official agent for a number of prestigious watch brands including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, A. Lange & Sohne, IWC Schaffhausen, JaegerLeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin and Hublot, you can be sure that every timepiece you take home will be imbued with a little bit of history.

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.Active

AcVtaicv e ation whether your IDea of aDventure Is ashtanga or zIp-lInIng, thIs collectIon of energetIcally InDulgent actIvItIes wIll challenge your boDy anD free your MInD. over the next sIx pages, we’ve gathereD together the Most exhIlaratIng experIences to be haD on-IslanD anD offanD MarKeD each one on a scale froM a breathe easy 1/10 to a breathless 10 to help you pIcK your DreaM actIvIty

YOGA IN SIMPSON BAY

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HORSE RIDING ON THE BEACH

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SURFING IN GUANA BAY

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WATER SPORTS IN ORIENT BAY

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HIKE AND ZIP LINE ON PIC PARADIS

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THE REST OF THE BEST…

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Yoga in Simpson Bay best of the rest

actor: f e M e r ext T AND ED OU A CHILL /10 TONED 3

low-IMpact exercIse wIth eMotIonal hIghs – perfect for those stresseD-out vacatIoners neeDIng to recharge anD re-evaluate. Yoga is the ultimate activity for encouraging a sense of calm and inner peace. It is a holistic activity, a total retreat from daily life that requires both strength of body and strength of mind, focusing on creating physical suppleness and restoring mental agility.

yoga creDentIals Ajna is the first and only yoga studio on the island offering classes in Kudalini yoga. Whether a beginner or pro, Kundalini yoga, or the Yoga of Awareness, has something to suit everyone by focusing on the individual and his or her specific physical and spiritual needs. Yoga lessons are run by a qualified instructor who teaches all levels in this purpose-built studio. Also on offer are off-mat workshops, such as the (in our experience unique) option of Yolingua Yoga where you can learn French and practice yoga at the same time. Anyone know the French for the frog pose?

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whIle you’re there Simpson Bay is very much in the thick of things on the island, so if your yoga class hasn’t blissed you out completely, there are a number of extra-curricular activities to be enjoyed nearby: ■ Just downstairs from the studio is the fabulous JC Biguine Hair Salon, where you will find probably the best colorist on the island and the chance to have Swarovski crystal hair extension applied for the ultimate big night out. ■ Join Neil Roebert on one of his popular daily cruises or the legendary Thursday sunset lagoon cruise on his 40-foot catamaran Celine. ■ Take a wave runner out to Creole Rock for two hours of adrenaline fuelled fun with Rhino Riders.

note to self

■ BEST FOR OVER TEN YEAR’S EXPERIENCE Marci’s Mega Gym, Simpson Bay: mmg2000.com; 599 545-5616 ■ BEST FOR NATURAL HIGHS Dinah Smithicles provides vigorous ashtanga-style classes in the beautiful hilltop retreat of Loterie Farm: 590 690 53 26 86 ■ BEST FOR HIDEAWAY JeanneMarie Derrick is a talented painter as well as yoga instructor with over 25 years’ experience. For the past five years she has run a yoga studio in South Hill, Anguilla: jeanne-marie.com; +1 264 497 6606

KIt lIst ■ MANDUKA EKO MAT – comfort with eco credentials. ■ GOOD LIFE SPA PEDICURE – for baring toes with pride. ■ STELLA MCCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS GYM YOGA GEAR – the right clothes bring peace of mind.

The baby cobra is a yoga position not a hazardous young reptile.

booK now To find out about the classes and workshops on offer, contact Rita Davis on…

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.Island Map

St Maarten

island map

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.Active

on the beach

horse riding perfect for those who lIKe to explore off the beaten tracK anD who prefer coverIng lanD on four hooves, horse rIDIng Is a great way to see the outDoors anD leave your troubles behInD. When it comes to exploring the great outdoors, four legs are better than two. Go at your own pace and enjoy the views at a relaxed trot or feel the wind in your hair with a furious canter spraying water and sand as you go.

actor: f e M e r ext 7/10 UP & GO SADDLE

the rIDe Take the two-hour beach ride with Bayside Riding Club from picturesque Le Galion Beach, across the sheltered bay and along trails through the protected Nature Marine Reserve and ending with a well-earned swim with your horse. Private groups can try cantering along the beach – something not to be missed by those with the skill to give it a go.

whIle you’re there ■ Le Galion is one of the safest beaches on the islands and is perfect for families with young swimmers – but, beyond the safety of the offshore reef, it offers plenty of challenges for experienced windsurfers. ■ The Butterfly Farm is deservedly one of the top attractions on the island. Go early or late to avoid the cruise ship crowd. ■ The flesh pots of Orient Beach are only a bay away but if it’s a cold beer and a simple meal you’re after try out Pat Turner’s Tropical Wave Beach Bar on Le Galion for some authentic island cool.

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when to go

KIt lIst

Rides are scheduled morning and afternoon but for something a bit special try the one-hour sunset rides that head off at 5pm or 5.30pm (depending on the time of year).

■ SHORTS AND A SWIMSUIT – breeches may be order of the day elsewhere but where you can expect to actually get in the water with your horse, something that dries easily makes more sense. ■ A RALPH LAUREN POLO SHIRT – of course! ■ CLINIQUE MOISTURE GLOVE HAND CREAM – keeps hands blister-free.

best of the rest ■ BEST FOR FAMILIES OK Corral in Oyster Pond offers a variety of rides, including the popular twohour ride along Orient Beach and back via the coastal hills. Pony rides and a Saturday morning horse camp are available for smaller children; 590 590 87 40 72 ■ BEST FOR MIXING URBAN WITH WILD Lucky Stables in busy Cole Bay is home to longest running equestrian center on the island. Rides pass through the ever-expanding development along this section of the island before reaching remoter regions through the hills around Cape Bay and along the beach: 599 544-5255

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Surfing in in Guana Bay when to go to self

Winter waves reach the north and west coasts of the island from November to March, while the east coast comes alive with the passing of tropical storms from July until November.

best of the rest

r: e facto 0 M e r t x 1 e RIDE 6/ AND WAX UP

for those looKIng for an aDrenalIn hIgh froM theIr beach breaK, surfIng Is a forM of exercIse requIrIng fItness, agIlIty anD concentratIon. The tide waits for no man, yet every surfer wants to harness its power to be crowned king of the waves. The thrill of a perfect swell or getting barreled is unrivalled, explaining why the surfing vocab is peppered with such an excitable lexicon as amped, stoked and frothing. Teenage lingo aside, surfing is a sport for all ages and abilities, from long- to short-boarders and, if you don’t have the balance to stand, body-boarding can be almost as exciting as hanging ten.

with its offshore reef is the place to practice your moves. The French side has a great range of spots for beginners and body-boarders including the challenging Wilderness (near Anse Marcel) and popular Friar’s Bay.

the rIDe

surf shop

Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or a beginner the island with its many surf spots and varying conditions is right for you. Remote and unspoilt Guana Bay, especially over the winter months when more vigorous trade winds add to the swell on the Atlantic coast, is the ultimate test for any aspiring pro, while Le Galion

Soul Seeker Surf Shop in Cole Bay lies at the heart of St Maarten surfing culture. Here you can rent boards, find custom shaped boards and cool kit as well as find out about local bands and gigs.

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note to self Know your offshore from your onshore.

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■ BEST FOR FAMILIES Surf the trade winds along the Atlantic Coast at Le Galion and young children and non-swimmers can paddle in the shallow waters of the northern end of the bay. ■ BEST FOR BEGINNERS Some of the best surf on the island can be enjoyed with the slow, curling waves that break upon the wide curve of Mullet Bay, one of the prettiest beaches on the island and close to all the action of Maho and Cupecoy. ■ BEST FOR BEING IN ALL THE ACTION Orient Bay is the most popular beach on the island for its range of water sports, its many beachside restaurants and its clothing optional policy

KIt lIst ■ QUIKSILVER RASHGUARDS – the softest fabric for rashfree surfing.. ■ WORLD STORMRIDER GUIDE – in-depth details on the best breaks. ■ MRS PALMERS SURF WAX – essential for getting your board prepped.

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Watersports in Orient Bay If you love the water, then there Is no enD of aquatIc sports out there to Keep you entertaIneD – froM parasaIlIng to KIte surfIng. the best thIng about water sports Is that one locatIon can often satIsfy all your preferences, so It’s great to Keep the whole faMIly happy anD occupIeD.

the place Orient Bay has it all. Here you can take a jet ski tour to explore the uninhabited islands of Pinel and Tintamarre, go parasailing suspended from a huge inflatable wing over the Atlantic Ocean or make the most of the offshore marine park and go snorkeling. For something more strenuous try the JP Australia windsurfs at Wind Adventures or enroll in their kite-surfing school. And then relax… in one of the many restaurants and bars that line the beach.

r: e facto M e r t x e 10 DIVE 5/ H& A SPLAS

booK now Wind-adventures.com; +590 29 41 57

note to self An Eskimo roll is an emergency kayak maneuver not a cake.

when to go February to May is best for weather but could be busy.

best of the rest ■ BEST FOR KIDS Join a group on a child-oriented cruise around Simpson Bay lagoon. Kids take turn driving the motorboat and

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then water bomb a small wreck with balloons: saint-martinactivities.com; 599 544 8715 ■ BEST FOR TRANQUILITY Kayaking along the little-explored mangroves of the lagoon: sxmactivities.com; 599 545 4384 ■ BEST FOR THE SWIM AND SHOP BRIGADE Great Bay in Philipsburg is right behind all the action on Front Street, so you can rent a jet ski or wave runner on the beach before exercising your credit card in one of the nearby shops.

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.Active

Hike and Zip Line on pic paradis r: e facto M e r t x e E RE ALIV S THE HILL

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hIKIng Is a great way to clear your heaD whIle gettIng plenty of fresh aIr anD exercIse. zIp lInIng Isn’t for the faInt-hearteD but DelIvers anD Intense natural hIgh.

adults-only Extreme. You are suspended anything from 35-75 feet and more in the air.

booK now loteriefarm.net; 590 87 86 56.

note to self Visitors track up Pic Paradis like windborne beetles, over the lower slopes and into the once derelict estate of Loterie Farm, which has found new life as an eco-tourism venture with places for trekking, horse riding and mountain biking.

If people ask if you’ve got a Platypus, they mean a drinking pouch not an aquatic mammal.

the MaIn attractIon

best of the rest

The Fly Zone is a ropewalk nature tour along the treetops complete with zip lines and suspension bridges. Up you go, over a sea of green and into the forest canopy on courses that range from starter to advanced level and the newly built,

■ BEST FOR HISTORY BUFFS St Maarten National Heritage Foundation continues to offer monthly guided hikes exploring the island’s hidden past: hfhikingsxm@yahoo.com; 599 542 4917

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when to go Loterie Farm is closed on Mondays.

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■ BEST FOR REMOTENESS Venture along the La Sucre Paradis trail that starts from the antennae at the south-east end of the road at the top of Pic Paradis and leads to the old Paradis sugar mill built in 1779 ■ BEST FOR FRANCOPHILES Trek the dual nation landscape of Mount Concordia that straddles the two sides of the island in the company of Frenchman Olivier Borensztejn: oliviersxm@wanadoo.fr; 690 62 79 07

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The Rest of the Best… WHERE WILD THINGS ARE In Philipsburg, St Maarten Park has the largest display of exotic parrots in the Caribbean. It is also the largest park of its kind in the Caribbean and offers an extensive playground for the kids. stmaartenpark.com; 599 543 2030

HARD TACK FOR SOFTIES BUTTERFLY FARM La Ferme des Papillons on the French side consists of a large meshed structure within which is a lush, tropical garden filled with exotic flowers and pools of Japanese koi carp. The atmosphere is tranquil, hypnotic music plays and hundreds of butterflies from all over the world fly freely around. thebutterflyfarm.com; 590 87 31 21

A highlight of the sailing scene since its arrival from Canada eight years ago is the Lord Sheffield, a 72-foot Tall Ship that offers daily sails and sunset cruises out of Philipsburg. Particularly popular with the kids is the Pirates of St Maarten Day Cruise where everyone is encouraged to walk the plank, sing a sea chantey and just say arrrhhh! lordsheffield.com; 599 552 0875

CHAMPAGNE RIDE

PLAY THE LINKS

If you like the sound of a smooth, comfortable ride on a legendary Harley-Davidson motorcycle stopping off at various beauty spots along the way before enjoying a three-course lunch and then heading home where a chilled bottle of champagne is waiting for you, then Harley St Maarten has the tools to create your perfect day out. harleystmaarten.com; 599 581 6282

The recently reopened Temenos Golf Course on Anguilla boasts a $50 million, Greg Norman designed championship course. Experience this challenging 7,063-yard course with water features on 13 holes and dramatic elevation changes (no mean feat on such a flat island) as part of a day out to Cap Juluca, which is now managing the course. capjuluca.com; 264 498 5602

Specializing in fun for all ages, Coconut Tree’s new 457-meter track is sure to be a hit with young and old. sxm-go-carting.com; 690 74 35 65

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EXPLORE THE DEEP Enrol in a PADI diver course at Dive Safaris and learn the fundamentals of scuba diving, including the how-to and wherefore of dive equipment and techniques. Enjoy flying among the angels, parrots and butterflies, dancing with the damsels, hamlet and scarlet ladies and bowing to the barracuda. scubashop.net; 599 545 2401

TRACE THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE PAST There are few places on St Maarten where it is possible to reconnect to the island’s agricultural past. Thanks to the efforts of some local entrepreneurs, this finally became possible five years ago with the opening of Plantation Mont Vernon, a restored 18th century cotton plantation that aims to reacquaint visitors to some of the tropical plants that may have been grown on the island centuries ago. plantationmontvernon.com; 590 29 50 62

WAKEBOARD NETTLE BAY PAINTBALL ST MARTIN

GO KARTING IN LA SAVANE

barricades, old trucks and cars that litter the site and try and get your breath back. st-martin-vacation.com; 690 81 03 20

Burn up some excess energy firing paint pellets at your nearest and dearest at this weekends-only, new attraction off the road to Orient Bay, next to the Cadisco gas station. Shelter behind one of the many

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Explore the calm waters of Nettle Bay the coolest way possible: on a wakeboard, a kind of cross between waterskiing, snow boarding and surfing. Academie de la Glisse; 690 64 18 28

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A

.Buying Guide

Buying Camera Camcorder

or

Digital technology has revolutionized the way we take, view and store images. Here, we explain the latest developments to help you find the right equipment. Mobile phones with cameras and videos have played a large part in the digital revolution. Now that most people can take pictures with their mobile phone, camera manufacturers have to work doubly hard to keep our interest. As a result, digital cameras and camcorders have become more affordable and easier to use, while producing brilliant results. Wide-angled lenses, high-resolution sensors and a whole selection of automatic settings will all help even the complete novice take great pictures. Auto focus, face detection, anti-shake and flash modes will judge the light conditions and subject instantly so that all the camera owner has to do is simply point and click. Keen photographers need not feel left out. Traditional-style cameras with interchangeable lenses and manual controls also come with auto settings, offering the best of both worlds, yet still producing top-quality pictures. Things are just as easy when capturing live action. Home videos can now look highly professional, thanks to camcorders recording in high definition with anti-blur and powerful zooms. Intuitive editing software will also help you cut, polish and even post your efforts for all to see.

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Digital

Cameras From basic point-and-shoot snappers to those who favor D-SLRs, everyone can now take a perfect picture. When Kodak announced it was ceasing production of its legendary Kodachrome 35mm film after 74 years, it was final proof that the digital age was here to stay.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Resolution This is defined in mega-pixels (mp) and the more of these your camera has the more detailed the pictures will be and the larger you can print. Standard 6x4in prints require 2.2mp; for 7x5in, 3.2mp; and for larger poster-sized images you need 7.8mp and higher. Most new cameras come with 8-12mp as standard. Memory Some cameras have a small internal memory but most need a memory card. SD (secure digital) is the most common format and costs around $12 for a 2GB card that stores around 1,600 4mp images. Screen/viewfinder Virtually all digital cameras have an LCD screen composing shots; some of them have a viewfinder as well. A viewfinder is particularly useful to have on sunny days when the screen can reflect; it can also produce a much steadier shot. Zoom Optical zoom lets you get close up to

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.Buying Guide calibrated a camera’s sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO number, the more light-sensitive your camera will be; high ISO settings (400, 800, 1600) make it easier to take a good shot in dull conditions without a flash. objects without the photo quality suffering, look for at least 4x or 5x zoom. Larger zooms get you closer but results are shaky without a tripod. Digital zoom sounds impressive but crops into the image reducing quality. Iso setting This is named after the International Standards Organization, which first

In The ShopS . ...... Pentax Optio P80 This slim 12mp camera has a 27.5mm wide-angled lens and 4x optical zoom. With three anti-blur modes and face/ smile detection. Around $180. Nikon D300S Extraordinary still and HD video imaging performance. This 12.3-megapixel DX-format dual memory card camera delivers stunning high resolution and fast image processing. Around $1,450. Canon EOS 7D This impressive 18 megapixel D-SLR is user-friendly enough for an amateur and takes unbeatable pictures. Around $1,700. Olympus Tough 6010 Ideal for vacations: it’s shock-proof, waterproof to 3m deep and freezeproof to -10°C. 12mp, plus 3.6x optical zoom. Around $280. Panasonic Lumix ZS3 High-class camera with wide-angle, 12x optical zoom, 10.1mp resolution and 24 automatic scene settings. Around

extra features Image stabilization Many models of camera can now automatically compensate for an unsteady hand anti-blur Increases shutter speed and ISO level for sharper shots. continuous shooting/burst mode Multiple pictures at the touch of the button; great for sports events. face/smile detection Camera automatically focuses on faces; some of them will fire off several pictures to capture the best shot. video Records short video clips but not to rival a camcorder. Look for HD (high definition) recording. scene modes Include landscape, snow, sport and night, just choose the best setting for the situation. Manual settings Manual override allows you to set the shutter speed, ISO and aperture, just like a traditional camera.

Compact Lightweight, portable camera, packed with automatic settings. Available in waterproof designs. Bridge This type “bridges” the gap between compact (point and shoot) cameras and SLRs. It is similar to D-SLR but has a smaller range of ISO sensitivities and doesn’t have interchangeable lenses. D-SLR (digital single-lens reflex) Favored by professionals and keen amateurs. The new D-SLRs marry the best in compact and professional technology. Unlike film SLRs, they also have automatic settings suitable for beginners. D-SLRs have faster autofocus, continuous shooting and shorter shutter delay than most compacts and can use interchangeable lenses for wide-angle, telephoto or closeup shots. You can tweak just about every function, from shutter speed to contrast, allowing for greater creativity.

fUTURe TeChnoLogy . ...... During this year expect to see 3-D cameras that display images on electronic frames and more compacts like the one shown with a built-in cinema-style projector so you can share your holiday snaps on the big screen instantly. The The Nikon Coolpix S1000pj has a built-in projector for displaying your photos. It costs around $370.

$350.

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CameRa TypeS . ......

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.Buying Guide

Camcorders Thanks to modern digital technology, capturing high-quality footage has never been simpler

upload them directly on to websites such as YouTube and email them to friends and family.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Camcorders are smaller and more powerful than ever and it is now possible to store hours of highquality video on a single memory card or hard drive instead of relying on DVD discs or video cassettes. Using the latest computer software, you can edit your video footage into polished, memorable programs,

In the shops . . .D2000 . Pistol.. grip. VPC-H Sanyo

fans will find this easy. It weighs 260g, uses SD cards, records in HD 60fps (frames per second), 16x optical zoom. Around $600. Sony HDR-XR520V Its 64GB memory stores 25 hours of HD video with surround sound; has anti-shake stabilizer, 3in touch screen. Around $1,400. Samsung HMX-R10 Angled lens reduces wrist strain, shoots superb full HD (1080p) video; takes 8mp still images; digital image stabilization. Around $500. Kodak ZX1 Captures everything in 720p HD; built-in editing software can be plugged into an HD-ready TV. Around $150. Panasonic SDR-SW21 Minuscule (117mm long, 238g) design with 10x optical zoom, uses SD cards and has 2.7in fold-out LCD screen. Around $400.

Feel The best advice is try before you buy, as different shapes will suit different-sized hands and the aim is to make holding the shot steady easier. With pistol-grip models you should be able to control all the main functions with just your thumb. Zoom As with digital cameras look for optical, not digital specifications. Most good camcorders will have between 10x and 20x optical zooms, which is more than enough for most people. If you use the zoom a lot, investing in a tripod will help take better videos. LCD screen Few amateur camcorders have a view finder any more; instead you view the action on an LCD screen – flip-out or mounted at the back. Some are touch-screen and allow you to view videos, delete, even edit as you go. Image quality Most models record in quite low resolution but, for the best possible quality, invest in an HD camcorder. Look for 720p or 1080p resolution (the latter is better) but you will need an HD-ready TV to get the best viewing results. Connectivity Make sure the camcorder can be linked to both your TV and to your computer and that it comes supplied with all the necessary cables. If using memory cards, check that your computer is compatible or you may need a separate card reader.

USEFUL FEATURES These handy extras help to give your videos a professional feel. Image stabilizer Digital or the more sophisticated optical stabilizers

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Styles of camcorder . ...... Hand-held This traditional shape sits in the hand, often with a strap and what they lack in lightweight pocketability they make up for in ease of use and practical features. Pistol-grip Lightweight and easy to use with one hand but some may find the screen a little small and buttons fiddly. Compact This lets you capture the moment wherever you are and it’s tiny, simple to operate and produces far better results than the video most mobile phones will offer. The may not be fancy but they are fun and great value.

Recording Modes . ...... Hard drive Record your video straight on to a hard drive without the need for a DVD disc or tape. Searching, skipping and reviewing footage are easy but, once the hard drive is full, you’ll need to transfer files to your computer to make space. Choose the biggest capacity you can; a 60GB hard drive will give you up to 25 hours of video. Memory card Many camcorders have a slot for memory cards, which allows them to be small and light. Capacity tends to be less than a hard drive. Some feature both hard drive and memory-card slot for added convenience.

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.Buying Guide

will help to compensate for a shaky hand and ensure your videos look as smooth as possible. Still camera Results using this function are rarely as impressive as those produced by a dedicated camera but all camcorders can take photos. Remember to look for the highest megapixel count, flash and optical zoom. Rapid transfer Camcorders with a

FireWire connection (also known as IEEE 1394 or iLink) let you download movies to your computer at high speeds but your computer needs to be compatible. Sound Look for microphones with wind filters to reduce outdoor hiss and zoom mics that can pick up sound further away as you zoom in. For professional results, make sure there is a port to attach an external microphone.

Post

Recording Modes . ...... CONTD.

Flash This is essentially a built-in memory card. Flash is perfectly suited to point-and-shoot pocket camcorders; they are inexpensive and make uploading videos to the internet quick and simple.

Production There is now a host of affordable printers to free your images from the camera Most color printers today will produce fairly good quality prints if you use special photographic paper but, if you are planning to print lots of images, a dedicated photo printer will give the best results.

In the shops . ...... Canon Selphy ES3 compact Prints from camera, memory card or computer; just buy cartridges containing paper and ink. Around $200. Kodak ESP7250 All-in-One Prints, copies and scans. Feed try prevents you using wrong paper. Uses fivecolor ink cartridge; download images from your iPhone, iPod touch or Blackberry. Around $200.

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PRINTING PHOTOS Compare the prices of ink cartridges before you buy. A bargain-priced printer can be expensive to run if the ink costs are high. In the long run, it’s better to pay more for a printer that uses cheaper cartridges.

UPLOADING PHOTOS The most economical way to print your photos, however, isn’t at home but online. Upload your photographs to a company such as Shutterfly. com or Yourpix.com and order prints from as little as 15c each. All the usual photographic gifts are available too, including stationery and photographic albums.

Editing your videos When it comes to polishing your home movies, most camcorders have basic built-in editing options or come with a software package that lets you add a soundtrack, titles and put scenes in the right order before burning to a DVD. These packages vary in quality but for top-class editing software try Adobe Elements 7 or Adobe Premiere if you use a PC; or iLife for Mac users.

Directory . ...... Where to find top-quality cameras, camcorders and printers Boolchand’s 50 Front Street, Philipsburg Tel: 599 542-2245 Other stores at: The Galleria, 12 Front Street, Philipsburg; and 5 Harbor Point Village, Philipsburg.

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.suncare

Here Comes theSun shIelD your sKIn anD haIr froM the eleMents thIs vacatIon wIth forMulatIons that coMbIne the latest sKIncare KnowleDge wIth the protectIve powers of nature. From wild pansy to rosehip oil, lavender to green tea, sun care is entering a new era of innovation. Extra-high factor sunscreens are being combined with a profusion of anti-ageing plant extracts to shield the skin from the greatest challenge it will face. As with everything that’s bad for us, when it comes to sunbathing on holiday, we prefer the head-in-the-sand approach to warnings of wrinkles, age spots and skin cancers. Yet there are few people on this planet who don’t know that the DNA that makes our skin grow correctly, not look old and not get cancer is damaged by ultraviolet (UV) light. Furthermore, no amount of creams, surgery, Botox or peels can recreate the quality of skin that has been religiously protected – just compare the skin on your forehead to the protected

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skin on the underside of your arm to see the difference sun exposure can make. While protecting your skin from excessive sun exposure is essential, choosing the right level of sunscreen is much more difficult than most of us realize. It is vital to choose a sunscreen that offers high levels of both shortwave UVB and long-wave UVA protection – check packaging carefully before buying. And sun care is not just a priority while on vacation – the majority of cases of burning occur when we are occupied with another outdoor activity, such as gardening, playing a sport, riding or just walking. Burning is not part of the tanning process and anything that burns only peels off, taking any color with it. If you tan slowly (which also means more

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safely, since the skin has time to repair itself), the ensuing color will be deeper and longer lasting. The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates the level of protection against the burning UVB radiation. Start with high-factor sun protection, ideally SPF30 for the first three to four days of your vacation and then go down to a SPF15. “If you do this and limit your exposure, then you’ll be well tanned but only have a small amount of reversible damage,” says Lionel de Benetti, head of research at Clarins. “Using a lower SPF, the tan may initially look darker but the effect won’t last as long because the cells have been killed, so the skin is shed faster and the tan fades more quickly.” Breakthrough research by Clarins has identified new ways

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>> Apply sun protection LIBERALLy before gettin g dressed in the morning > >

in which DNA and collagen are damaged by ultraviolet rays. Clarins Phyto-Sunactyl 2 Multi Cellular Protection complex combines the synergistic effects of five plant extracts – pea, olive leaf, baobab leaf, plane bark and senna leaf – to help prevent deep-down sun damage. The new formulations include Sun Wrinkle Control Cream SPF30, SPF15 and SPF8 for the face. There are two types of UV light that you need to know about: UVB, which causes the vast majority of burning, ageing and skin cancers; and UVA, which causes around 10-15 percent of skin damage. Most sunscreens provide comprehensive protection from UVB radiation but, until recently, few provided adequate UVA protection – leading people to believe they were protected from the sun’s rays while they were actually receiving higher doses of UVA. Coppertone was the first to come up with this kind of broad-spectrum sunscreen, while in the 1970s the American Food & Drug Administration invented the sun protection factor (SPF) system to rate the effectiveness of sunscreen against burning.

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Mineral sunscreens, usually zinc oxide and titanium oxide, both block UVA and UVB rays, while chemical filters such as Mexoryl are UVA-specific. Dr. Henry Lim, Vice President of the American Academy of Dermatology agrees that, “Most everyone is aware of the risks associated with UVB exposure, however there are real risks associated with UVA exposure including skin aging, DNA destruction and even skin cancer. Protecting your skin from UVA rays is just as important as protecting yourself against UVB rays.” Some of the newest products with up-to-the-minute UVB and UVA formulations include Lancôme Absolue Soleil Absolute Replenishing Sun Protection. Developed for mature skins to help prevent brown spots and dryness, it features wild yam to moisturise, brown seaweed to firm and lychee extract to boost the production of collagen. But since about 1988, there have been concerns over whether sunscreens are giving us

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enough protection. The worry is that although SPFs allude to the visible damage caused by exposure to UVB rays, there is no indication of what invisible UVAinduced ageing – or immune suppression – is actually going on in the cells. So the latest idea, championed by some as the next big skincare breakthrough, is to add an immune protection factor (IPF) rating to the current SPF system, indicating the damage being caused by both wavelengths when we go in the sun. Clinique has been quietly backing research into this concept for some years. It is currently perfecting a superleague SPF system that would include IPFs and believes that in five to 10 years, we will be as familiar with our IPFs as we are with our SPFs.

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.suncare UVA triggers free radicals, the ageing molecules; so scientists are experimenting with potent antioxidants to “mop up” cell damage as it occurs. Clinique has used exotic-sounding scavengers such as cat’s claw and rosemaric acid, which it says target free radicals in upper skin layers. Clinique Sun-Care UV-Response range features “solar-activated products” that contain sun filters and antioxidants, which become more active as the sun’s intensity increases. While Clarins’s new Sun Control Cream Very High Protection SPF30 is

suNDOWNERs How many times have you packed a dozen different sun creams for your holiday but forgotten the after-sun lotion? If you want to return looking luscious and refreshed, with a long-lasting tan, after-sun care is as important and preparation. Use a specific after-sun face cream, as these contain ingredients focused on repairing damage. Try l’oreal paris solar expertise rehydrating soothing facial Moisturiser or clarins after sun replenishing Moisture care for face. Should the worst come to the worst and you get burnt, book yourself a holistic treatment at the Good Life Spa in Maho. Their Sunburn Rescue Aloe Treatment uses a thermal aloe wrap to rehydrate and soothe sore, inflamed skin. For really bad cases, combine this with a Hydrotherapy Remineralizing Bath for the ultimate in healing benefit. To make your own cooling treatment for mild sunburn, add 20 drops of camomile essential oil to tepid bath water. Alternatively, make an infusion of camomile tea bags, allow to cool and then sponge the flower water onto the affected area. Lavender essential oil also has wonderful healing properties. Use 10 drops in a bath of tepid water. For most of us, lying in the sun is an integral part of our holiday and having a tan makes us look and feel better. But, with an eye on your future well-being, don’t compromise on buying and using a sunscreen that really works. And, unless you want matching leather ‘accessories’ (face, bag, shoes), protect everything from the neck up.

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based on a cellular protection plant complex, alongside almond and apricot oils to help prevent prickly heat. Ironically, some studies have shown that more people who use sunscreen get skin cancers than those who don’t because, in general, they don’t apply the creams properly – in other words, thickly and evenly enough. As a rule of thumb, you should apply the equivalent of a 75ml tube for every day you are out in the sun. Apply sun protection liberally before getting dressed in the morning. This means you won’t miss any bits, plus the ingredients will have time to settle on the skin and form a top layer. Then reapply your protection when you are in the sun (every couple of hours or so). Always keep your face out of the sun – use a self-tanner instead (like Lancôme’s Flash Bronzer face gel), so you won’t be tempted to put it in the sun. After all, the safest tan is a fake tan. The dihydroxyacetone in self-tans is usually based on sugar cane, which reacts with the proteins in the skin’s outer layers to produce a bronzed effect. One of the most naturallooking, spritz-on self tans is Garnier Ambre Solaire’s No Streaks Bronzer Dry Body Mist. Available in Original for darker complexions and Light for fair skin, it contains moisturizing vitamin E and apricot kernel oil. 4

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20

Best Restaurants by the Water A good meal looking out across the water is an essential ingredient of the day for most vacationers, among them our gourmet beach bum,

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CUPECOY The Cliff Cafe

A favourite for those who want access to pretty Cupecoy beach without hiking through the bush, Le Cafe at The Cliff serves real coffee with great French cafe-style sandwiches, quiches and pastries, including goat’s cheese in puff pastry with honey and toasted pine nuts. Travertine floors, overhead lighting and plain walls make the restaurant seem a bit austere but the food is anything but. Breakfasts are comprehensive, from Continental to smoked salmon bagels; the lunch menu is shorter than the evening version, but all dishes are of a similarly high calibre with innovative daily specials. The clincher is a sunset cocktail followed by al fresco dining on the terrace looking out towards Saba on the horizon. LUNCH FOR TWO From about $70. prices throughout exclude wine or alcohol RESERVATIONS 599 546 6600 www.thecliffcafe.comX

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IMAGE: ICONE MAGAZINE

.restaurants


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.restaurants

GRAND CASE Talk of the Town

Walk along the bay, past some of the finest and priciest restaurants on the island to where the buildings thin out and the beach hoves once again into view and there you will find the lolos: a series of beachside grills that have grown over the years from basic shacks to the slightly more permanent but still informal structures you see today. All are good but our perennial favorite is Talk of the Town. The rather basic décor is deceptive, for these locally run establishments serve some of the best, and cheapest, dining in town. A barbecue of deviled crab, grilled marlin, steak and ribs might come with sides of coleslaw, fried plantain or rice and black-eyed peas. DINNER FOR TWO From about $15. Prices throughout exclude wine or alcohol RESERVATIONS Unnecessary

PHILIPSBURG Ocean Lounge

Tourist hotels are good at offering central locations at reasonable prices, usually bad at running restaurants. Which makes Ocean Lounge exceptional: set, as its names suggests, on the waterfront in the revamped Holland House Hotel, it’s a place were you’ll come for sunset cocktails and be content to linger well into the evening. Fresh fish and seafood is the specialty but look out for those dishes that resonate with subtle touches of his homeland by the young, Dutch chef. The cellar is dominated by fine French wines and is not overpriced. DINNER FOR TWO From about $100 RESERVATIONS 599 542 2572; www.hhbh.com

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PINEL ISLAND Karibuni

Waiters in board shorts and t-shirts and waitresses in skimpy bikinis scurry around the definitive desert island restaurant just off the coast of French St Martin. You can eat on the shady timber deck or under the charming, thatch palapas by the water’s edge. Upstairs (a short climb up the hillside to the back) is a private table for large parties with an extraordinary view out over the little bay towards the breakwaters of Orient Bay and beyond. A characteristic meal here would be conch fritters accompanied by a hot chilli dipping sauce followed by grilled giant river prawns on a bed of saffron rice; but simple beach stalwarts such as barbecued ribs with chips and sides are also available. LUNCH FOR TWO From about $60 RESERVATIONS 690 39 67 00

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NETTLE BAY, LOWLANDS Layla’s

Situated just off the road between Cupecoy and Marigot, Layla’s is the beach bar of choice for those hoping to escape the hustle and bustle of the French capital. Owners Layla and Pierre have cultivated this spot on the beach for over a decade now. There are daily specials with fish fresh from the boats and herbs and vegetables from their garden often the order of the day. The fish comes served with a mildly spicy sauce with rice and homegrown salad greens (although the fiery chili pepper that is often used as a garnish is not to be taken lightly). The wine list is thoughtful and reasonably priced and features a good selection of rosé wines and Loire valley whites. LUNCH FOR TWO From about $80 RESERVATIONS 590 51 00 93

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MARINA ROYALE, MARIGOT Tropicana

Fans of the kind of classic brasseries you find in Paris, in which you get reasonable food at a reasonable price, will enjoy Tropicana. This neighborhood restaurant overlooking Marigot marina is a classic of its kind. The pick of the starters is the pan fried foie gras with calvados; follow that with roast rack of lamb with goat’s cheese and rosemary or grilled spiny lobster with a Creole sauce. Grand Marnier soufflé is a signature dessert. Christophe works front of house and manages to supervise a packed restaurant and still have time for everybody. DINNER FOR TWO From about €80 RESERVATIONS 590 87 79 07

SIMPSON BAY BEACH Karakter

You won’t stumble across Karakter by chance, unless you’ve taken the wrong turning to the airport: it is hidden down a long bumpy track with the airport perimeter fence on one hand and the largely undiscovered expanse of Simpson Bay Beach on the other. The kitchen is housed in a converted school bus that, despite the cramped and slightly eccentric conditions, manages to produce a wonderful selection of fresh wraps, salads and smoothies. Indonesian chicken skewers are a modest (by island beach restaurant standards) $14.50 and a bucket of six Amstel beers costs $12. LUNCH FOR TWO From about $30 RESERVATIONS 599 523 9983; www.karakterbeach.com

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BAIE LONGUE La Samanna

This is the smartest address on the island. The restaurant, which both feeds off and fuels this hotel’s glamorous reputation, occupies the front of the building at ground level on the beachfront. Since the La Samanna is built up into the hillside, this provides a sweeping snapshot of Baie Longue below from the restaurant’s columned terrace. The food is beautifully presented: the smiling staff wear impeccably tailored uniforms. Dishes usually include guinea fowl with girolle mushrooms and braised lamb shanks. Seared cod is seasoned with cumin and comes with a spicy broth with Spanish sausage and beans. Wines and rums (including the hotel’s own branded rum) can be sampled in the cellar. Those who just have to have sand between their toes can enjoy a beach barbecue, albeit a rather posh one with linen tablecloths and your own private chef and waiter. Luxury this refined, though, doesn’t come cheap. DINNER FOR TWO From about €120 RESERVATIONS 590 87 64 00; www.lasamanna.com

ORIENT BEACH Chez Leandra

This tiny restaurant is set back a bit from the waterside throng and is right next to clothingoptional Club Orient at the eastern end of the bay (hit the yellow umbrellas and full frontal nudity of Club Orient and you have gone too far – possibly in both senses of the word). Its food is proudly regional with light Creole touches that enliven the usual beach fare. Try the saltfish wrap or the conch fritters accompanied by an ice cold Carib. LUNCH FOR TWO From about $20 RESERVATIONS Unnecessary

GUSTAVIA, ST BART’S Maya’s

Maya’s is to St Bart’s what Bridget Bardot was to St Tropez. It was one of the first really good restaurants to open on the island and it remains a best bet thanks to the talents of French Creole chef-owner Maya Gurley. Maya’s menu changes daily but always includes fresh local fish and simply grilled chicken skewers with coconut milk. Save room for the West Indian orange cake. DINNER FOR TWO From about €100 RESERVATIONS 590 27 75 73

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NETTLE BAY, LOWLANDS

SANDY GROUND, MARIGOT

Named after a poem by the 17th century French poet Jean de la Fontaine about a cigada, La Cigale has wonderful views of the lagoon from its position tucked away behind the Laguna Beach Hotel. Its tables are set out to give maximum advantage of the view from its dining room and open air patio. Owner Olivier Genet recruited his parents from the Loire Valley in France to come and help him run this tiny establishment over a decade ago. In the kitchen, Stéphane Istel produces fine French fare with a tropical twist: homemade foie gras with orange and mango, duck breast scented with Sichuan pepper and sea bass Provencal style. Desserts include a delicious French version of pecan pie. DINNER FOR TWO From around €90 RESERVATIONS 590 87 90 23; www.restaurant-lacigale.com

Co-owner and chef Mario Tardif has achieved culinary perfection on a daily basis for 15 years now. His business partner Didier Gonnon runs the front of house cheerfully and with flair. The food is served in a romantically lit inside dining room or on a covered terrace with tables over the water (though frankly there’s not much to see after dark). Start with beef carpaccio with truffle oil and foie gras, or sautéed conch cake with curried mango chutney. To follow, try veal scaloppini with lemon-caper butter or penne with shrimp and bourbon. The wine list has a good selection of Californian reds as well as some fine Burgundys. DINNER FOR TWO From about €100 RESERVATIONS 590 87 06 36; www.mariosbistro.com

La Cigale

Mario’s Bistro

PHILIPSBURG Antoine

Jean-Pierre Pomerico and Pierre-Louis Kesner’s restaurant lies at the far end of Front Street furthest from the cruise ship pier. The handsome dining room with views straight out over Great Bay is decorated with a welcoming mix of island eclectica from Haitian paintings to Delft tiles, old photos and hurricane lanterns. House favorites include duck cooked with cherries and brandy and a celebrated lobster thermidor. Hungry diners should not fail to engage with the dessert trolley. DINNER FOR TWO From about $100 RESERVATIONS 599 545 2964; www.antoinerestaurant.com

LE GALION BEACH Chez Pat

Pat Turner, an American by heritage, was born in Rio de Janeiro but has called St Maarten his home for the past 33 years. Once one of the Caribbean’s top windsurfers, he chose Le Galion beach for the unique combination of calm seas in the shallows coupled with strong winds and racing currents out in the bay beyond the protection of the reef. In keeping with the chilled out, family friendly vibe, the restaurant offers essential fuel for an active day on the beach or a quiet place to sip an ice cold beer. Specialties include a winning chef’s salad, baguettes, burgers and French fries served in a basket. LUNCH FOR TWO From about €20 RESERVATIONS 590 87 37 25

IMAGE: MUSSELS AT MARIO BISTRO

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GRAND CASE

PHILIPSBURG

OYSTER POND

The café sits on a rocky promontory separating the main bay at Grand Case from picture-perfect Petite Plage (or Little Beach), with wide-reaching views across to Anguilla. The lunch menu offers an imaginative take on the usual salads, burgers and sandwiches beach fare. The fish dishes are usually good as are the daily specials. Dinner is a more elaborate affair but the setting is still casual enough to allow lots of lounging around waiting for the green flash. Just buzz the gate at the Grand Case Beach Club and you can you the resorts free (and secure) parking. LUNCH FOR TWO From around €80 RESERVATIONS 590 87 51 87

The island’s Daily Herald newspaper voted Fusion the Best New Restaurant of 2008. Its decoration is ‘tropical chic’ with rattan chairs and accents colors of hot orange and burgundy. The food is as cosmopolitan as the décor, thanks largely to the talents of chef proprietor Marvin van Eyck who was born in the former Dutch colony of Suriname in South America. Among the mains are a conch swathed in a curry dill sauce with West Indian peas n’ rice, Japanese style teriyaki chicken and good old British fish and chips. Such a varied menu deserves a varied selection of drinks and there is indeed and wide range to choose from: from Brazilian caiperenas to guavaberry martinis and French wines. LUNCH FOR TWO From about $70 RESERVATIONS 599 542 2394; sxmfusionrestaurant.com

Oyster Pond Marina lies right on the border between the French and Dutch sides of the island. Taking up a wide berth on the quayside is this restaurant, the brainchild of Leslie Martina. Trained in Holland, Martina has worked at both Chesterfields and The Greenhouse, both venerable waterfront establishments, and is a man well-placed to dish up what people want – perhaps before they even know they want it. The décor is attractive and upscale but it’s the quality and creativity of the cooking that has already won this place plaudits. Expect a wide selection of different fish (according to what is fresh that day) paired with a choice of sauces from lemongrass coconut curry to Creole Pernod. DINNER FOR TWO From about $80 RESERVATIONS 599 554 3009

Sunset Café

SIMPSON BAY Saratoga

Simpson Bay has over the past few years become one of the hottest hangouts on the island – not least for the string of culinary gems where you can eat very well at reasonable prices. Saratoga occupies a Spanish-style villa, with a romantic setting overlooking the lagoon. Main courses might include a sautéed red snapper with wild mushrooms, Asianinspired fish dishes and Angus steak. The wine list offers some great single vineyard options, which are often hard to find because they are produced in such low volume, and well as a good selection of wines by the glass. The designer martinis also come highly recommended. DINNER FOR TWO From about $90 RESERVATIONS 599 544 2421

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Fusion

Big Fish

GRAND CASE Le Tastevin

Le Tastevin, on the famous Boulevard de Grand Case, occupies one of the oldest houses in the village. Once a humble fishing village, Grand Case has burgeoned into the culinary capital of the Caribbean without losing its quaint, rustic feel. But you need more than a fisherman’s wage to eat at many of the restaurants lining the waterfront and Le Tastevin, run by Christine and Jose Manrique, is no exception. Chef Patrick Guillerm draws on his training at Michelin-

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starred restaurants in France to extend the boundaries of traditional French cuisine with, for example, pork fillet accompanied by polenta with sheep’s cheese, frozen nougat with a basil and apricot coulis and potatoes stuffed with snails cooked in a garlic and basil sauce. The three-course gourmet menu, including a glass of wine matched to each dish, is excellent value. DINNER FOR TWO From about €100 RESERVATIONS 590 87 55 45; letastevin-restaurant.com

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The WOW FACTOR style anD extravagance are Just a short boat rIDe away. forget Day trIps anD spenD the nIght In the epItoMe of luxury

Le Toiny The 15-bedroom Le Toiny introduced the idea of total privacy on an island already well-known for its brand of laidback exclusivity with plenty of space to unwind in your private villa set in 38 acres of pristine countryside in an ‘offthe-beaten-track’, south-east St Bart’s location once referred to as the Côte Sauvage (or wild coast). The brilliant poolside restaurant Le Gaiac is a culinary hit (its chef Stéphane Mazières recently received the prestigious Grand Chef Taittinger award), providing even less reason to leave the sanctuary of the resort. The multilingual staff are courteous and enthusiastic: as one guest noted, “they have the answer before you’ve even thought of the question”. Each pastel-colored villa is surrounded by vegetation and has its own gated entrance with a red mailbox flag that serves as a ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign. Once inside, you can luxuriate in the French colonial style accommodation with mahogany four-poster beds and cosy

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seating arrangements where you can easily curl up and read a book. Each villa is designed to benefit from the maximum light with large patio doors that fold back to reveal a private outdoor patio with plunge pool, sun loungers and dining area where breakfast is set up each morning on starched linen tablecloths.

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Room To Book The basic suites are still spacious but for absolute privacy and seclusion opt for a villa suite with expansive views of the sea. anse de toiny, st bart’s +590 27 88 88; www.letoiny.com Junior suites from $790

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Le Sereno Le Sereno is proof that you can find style without breaking the bank even on what may be the most expensive island in the Caribbean. Right on the beach, it’s possible to sleep in and stumble out onto the beach for breakfast, lunch and napping. With its cosseting lounge and martini bar, jungle of tropical plants in the landscaped grounds and courteous welcome, there’s something incredibly civilized about the place. What was once the faded and distinctly un-hip Sereno Beach Hotel has been boiled down to its pure essence and the blend of calm, contemporary lines and colonial cool makes it feel more like a private house than a hotel. Many of the 37 rooms are small but noted Parisian designer Christian Liaigre has given to each the same attention to detail he lavished on the Mercer in New York, with high ceilings, pristine white walls and dark Venezuelan hardwood floors which provide a perfect frame for the azure blues of the sea right outside the patio doors. Bathrooms are modern in style with granite sinks, some are open plan with outside couples showers (protected by a privacy screen) and all come with trendy Parisian Ex Voto toiletries.

Room To Book Any of the larger Grande Suite Plage rooms overlooking the ocean, with four poster beds and luxurious tubs as well as showers. Grand Cul de Sac, St Bart’s +590 87 29 83 00; www.lesereno.com). Terrace suites from $480

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Viceroy Anguilla Resort & Residences Occupying 35 acres facing Meads and Barnes Bay (including 3,200 feet of prime beachfront), the clean-lined modern Viceroy Anguilla Resort looks like it belongs on South Beach and its size has caused some consternation amongst locals and regulars to the island. Nevertheless, by setting new standards in design and amenities, this is the resort by which all others will be judged. Despite only opening in November 2009, it has already won high praise for the standards of service from the General Manager Jan Tibaldi (who was General Manager of the prestigious One & Only St Géran in Mauritius)

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to the junior busboy. The 166 villas, townhouses and resort residences were designed by Kelly Wearstler who – though best known for her use of color and bold graphics – has created interiors with grown-up theatricality and a magpie’s eye for collecting things. It seems that the whole world has thrown up its treasures from hand-carved wood from Asia to hammered metalwork from India and beaded artwork from Africa. Even the entry-level, 483-square foot bedrooms have a generous private sundeck and plunge pool as well as all the other amenities you would expect in a five-star resort.

Room To Book Bedrooms are in the main resort and residences and in villas spread out across the bluff and beachfront separating the two bays; ask for one on the upper floor with an ocean view and a private circular staircase to your own rooftop sundeck, or try out the truly palatial 976-square foot suites. Barnes Bay, PO Box 8028, West End +264 497 7000; www.viceroyanguilla.com). Doubles from $695

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Cap Juluca Cap Juluca opened in 1988 along the superb curve of Maunday’s Bay in Anguilla. The hotel stands in a line of faux-Moorish villas, all domes and rounded arches and has recently been the subject of a $22 million renovation following a change of ownership in 2008 to meticulously bring the place up-to-date from refreshing the bedrooms to planting 60,000 new plants in the extensive grounds. Cap Juluca has regularly been adopted as a laidback hideaway by the Hollywood in-crowd. Owner Adam Aron has committed to preserving the happy mix of style and relaxation while further investing in its future, even bringing Cap Juluca’s original architect, 80-year-old Oscar Farmer, out of retirement to help with the development. In the Main House, the centerpiece of the redesign is a magnificent 900-pound chandelier made from punched tin dipped in brass lit by 94 metal balls strategically placed to refract light and simulate the twinkling of an Anguillan starry

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night. Texan interior designer Paul Duesing was called in to refashion the interiors and he and Aron scoured Marrakesh for signature pieces with which to dress the décor. There are 91 good-sized rooms and six private pool villas, each with handmade Moroccan rugs, custom designed stone tables on private patios and comfortable, firm beds made up with Frette linen and pristine white textured bedspreads. Instead of the old built-in furniture expect a more individual touch with items sourced from the souks and colorful mosaics in the bathroom and behind the beds. The bathrooms are something to write home about with outside showers and glass walls giving onto interior gardens.

The Cliff At Cupecoy

Room To Book All the rooms have ocean views and private patios and at 700-square feet even the standard double rooms are bigger than most hotel suites. Maundays bay, anguilla +264 497 6666; www.capjuluca.com Doubles from $595.

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faCTS &

Figures aIrlInes

Air France (599 545-4212), American Airlines (599 5452040), Continental (599 5452788), Corsair (599 545-4344), KLM (599 545-4747) and US Airways (599 545-3053) have direct flights from Europe and the US gateway cities of New York, Miami and Charlotte. The fastest way to island hop is via commuter air travel. Local airlines offering short distance flights within the Caribbean include Air Caraibes (590 5 90 51 03 03), American Eagle (599 545-2040), BWIA (599 5454646), LIAT (599 545-2403) and Winair (599 545-2568).

aIrport Departure tax A tax of $35 is levied on everyone over the age of two years leaving for international destinations (mostly included in the price of your ticket).

banKs Banks are usually open from 8:00am to 3:00pm from Monday to Friday. On the Dutch side, Windward Islands Bank (599 545-3063), Scotiabank (599 5423317) and RBTT (599 542-3344) offer 24-hour ATM facilities for those with Cirrus, MasterCard or Visa cards. The Post Office in Marigot has an ATM, which will give you euros. The banks usually offer better exchange rates than you get at any of the hotel front desks.

buses This is the cheapest form of transport and the quickest

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introduction to island life. The network runs until 10 or 11pm. Buses run between Philipsburg, Mullet Bay (past the airport), Simpson Bay, Marigot and Grand Case. Between these two points there are numerous bus stops indicated by the word ‘Bushalte’. When you want to get off though simply shout, “Stop!” and the bus will deposit you by the roadside. Unfortunately service to other destinations on the island is sketchy, so touring the whole island by bus is not practical. Fares range from $1-2.

car rental For maximum mobility and convenience whether it’s to seek out the hidden charms of the island or go out to dinner in the evenings, the best option is to hire a car. There are many car rental agencies on the island with rates around $45 per day including taxes. Jeeps are more expensive to hire from around $55 per day with unlimited mileage. Any foreign driver’s license is valid and a major credit card or cash deposit of between $350-600 is required. Remember to drive on the right and leave plenty of time to get around as the roads do get congested, especially during the day. There are several local firms as well as all the big international names. Avis has offices on the French and Dutch sides (590 590 87 50 60/599 545-2319) as does Hertz (590 590 87 83 71/ 599 545-4541). Budget and Europcar are also well represented across the island. Locally owned firms like Paradise Island Car Rental (599 545-3737)

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are well established and often more competitive than some of the big firms. If you are willing to sit through the talk, you can often get a $50 voucher off car rental from one of the timeshare sales companies.

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHAWN DUBIS

.facts and figures

churches St Maarten is an island of churches with many denominations represented including: Catholic, Baptist, Anglican, Methodist, Adventist and Pentecostal. The main Anglican church is in Backstreet, Philipsburg (599 542-2437). Sunday worship is at 8 a.m. The Roman Catholic St Martin of Tours at 30 Frontstreet, Philipsburg (599 542-5892) has services Monday and Tuesday at 6 a.m., Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 6 p.m. and Sunday at 8 a.m. It is best to call ahead to check times of services.

clIMate The average temperature is 80 degrees F. The water temperature is an almost constant 78 degrees F.

currency All transactions in the main hotels and restaurants on both sides of the island can be carried out in US dollars. The official currency of French St Martin is the euro and on the Dutch side, the official currency is the Netherlands Antilles guilder (although the US dollar is widely used). When paying in dollars on the French side, you may well receive you change in euros. NA guilders are

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.facts and figures telephone

not accepted on the French side. Credit cards are widely accepted all over the island.

entry requIreMents While Canadian Citizens can still get by with birth certificate accompanied by a photo ID and return ticket. All other non-St Maarten nationals – including US Citizens – must have a valid passport.

ferrIes Ferries operate three times a day between Marigot and Anguilla and cost $12 one-way, plus $3 departure tax. Rapid Explorer (590 590 27 60 33) runs a new high speed catamaran service (35 minutes) to St Barts from Chesterfield Marina, Philipsburg for $89 round-trip. The Edge (599 544-2640) offers day trips to Saba year-round from Wednesday through to Sunday for $65 per person; newcomer Dawn II (599 416-3671) sails Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays between Saba and St Maarten for $60 day return.

hospItals In a medical emergency, there is a hospital in Marigot near Fort St Louis (590 5 90 29 57 57). A green cross marks pharmacies on the French side. On the Dutch side, contact the St Maarten Medical Center in Cay Hill, five minutes from Philipsburg (599 543-1111). If you need medical attention, call your hotel’s front desk in the first instance.

some very colorful postage stamps and these make excellent souvenirs. On the French side the main post office is in Marigot (590 5 90 87 53 14) and there are branches in Nettle Bay and the Howell Center (next to Match supermarket). If you really have to send something fast, go to The Mailbox (599 545-3890) in Simpson Bay and use their service. It is slightly more expensive than the local mail but they put US postage on your letter, put it on a plane to the US and put it into the US system.

raInfall Rainfall is highest in August, September and November, with around 4 1/2 inches falling per month. Winter months are fairly dry, with 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches of rain per month.

shoppIng hours Stores on the French side are the same as they are in France: generally 9-1 and 3-7. In Philipsburg, stores are typically open 9-6 Mon-Sat, with some opening for a few hours on Sunday morning if there is a cruise ship in town.

taxIs

Taxis are widely available on the island from the main hotels and at the airport. There is also a taxi rank at the Marigot waterfront and by the courthouse in Wathey Square in Philipsburg. This is the tourist-recommended form of transport. It is quite expensive and there are no meters but rates are fixed by the government pets Pets are welcome, as long as visitors for set journeys based on two passengers sharing. There is a bring health and inoculation minimum charge of $4 and rates certificates for their animals. rise after 10pm and again after midnight. A tip of post offIce 50 cents or $1 for short runs and The main post office on the more for an extended narrated Dutch side is in Philipsburg tour is expected. (599 542-2298). St Maarten has

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The curiosity of having two nation states on one island makes telephoning a bit of a complicated procedure. Within St Martin, dial the nine-digit number prefixing it with a zero (0590 xx xx xx); or seven digits within St Maarten. If you want to phone from the French to the Dutch side, dial the international code (00 599) and then the seven-digit number; and from the Dutch to the French side, dial 00 590 followed by the nine digits. If you want to use a public phone on the French side, you will need to buy a telecarte from the post office or selected newsagents.

tIppIng Most hotels and restaurants add between 12-15 percent to the bill as a service charge and this is almost always posted in writing in advance. Airport porters should received around $2 per bag.

tourIst offIce There is a small tourist information office on the French side in Marigot (590 5 90 87 57 21) that is useful for maps and guidebooks. It is open on weekdays 8.30-1 and 2.30-5.30, Sat 8 to noon. On St Maarten, the main tourist information office overlooks the Salt Pond in Philipsburg (599 542-2337) but there is also an information desk on the jetty where the launches drop cruise ship passengers; as well as a booth at Princess Juliana airport. Open weekdays 8-noon and 1-5.

tours Your hotel will easily fix up a tour in a safari buggy of the island including stops for shopping and refreshment. Taxis will do tours and are not much more expensive but allow one to customize a day: a bit of shopping in the morning, lunch on one beach, a bit of sightseeing and a late afternoon on another beach.

voltage Electricity is standard North American current (120 volt 60 cycles) on the Dutch side and 220 volt 60 cycles on the French.

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