Figure 34: Market at La Reine

Figure 34: Market at La Reine.

Photo: J. Agar

In the La Reine market (Figure 34), the behavior among fishers, dealers and helpers is one characterized by “relajo” or joking24, with aggressive verbal games and physical bluffs. Fishermen exchanges often focus on women’s anatomy and crude sexual comments. Older and retired fishers that we interviewed expressed their qualms about the new market, mainly in relation to the behavior of the participants. Cursing, drinking, fighting over clients, and smoking pot were described as the forms of behavior that they disapproved. In their view there is no order at the market (“there is no control over the situation”) and there is an open “lack of respect” among the participants.25

The historical background of the La Reine Fish Market reveals the effects of the lack of placebased fishing communities in St. Croix and the continuous displacement of coastal settlements and culture. During our first visit in 2002, the fishermen sold their fish at the roadside mainly along Centerline Road. For health reasons, the government decided to concentrate the marketing and sale of seafood into a single safer venue. Interestingly, some fishers interviewed noted that fruit and vegetable vendors still sell roadside, highlighting the double standard of the situation.

24 Anthropologist Anthony Lauria described in detail the polarization between “respeto” (respect) and “relajo” (joking and “roasting” each other) among Puerto Rican males. “Relajo” was the total abandonment of the respectful relations, and usually implied, crossing the line with other males. 25 However, other interviewees observed that fighting among the fishers, to get clients, was also common at the plot near the Western Auto Building. Instead of getting together to set the prices, they competed against each other. “That is the way they do it, so they like it,” one veteran fisherman told us.

In our opinion, the fact that there were no fishing communities as such prompted the government to select a central geographical location for fishermen who were already accustomed to the process of dispersion. As a large percentage (34.5%) of fishers use ramps and/or landing sites to deploy Street vendors their boats, it is common to see pick-up trucks with At strategic points, on the roadside, one can the trailers and boats traveling all over the island. observe stands with tables where the women sell vegetables and other produce. Throughout the island, these women sell a Figure 23 shows that most fishers live in the estates variety of agricultural goods, at a very high price. They are usually accompanied by along the Centerline Road, away from the coast. friends, relatives and occasionally by their Thus, most fishermen live close to the La Reine husbands. They sell: queneps, mangoes, medicinal plants, eggplant, herbs, tomatoes, market. Perhaps, the fact that there was little papayas, cucumbers. economic activity at the King Edwards Fishermen Wharf at Frederiksted influenced the government’s decision to create La Reine.

6.8.1. A market day

“There is no rhyme and reason for what they do; people just stop any day (to buy fish) although Saturday is becoming a market day again.”26

In the past, fishermen had their spot or site along the roadside from where they sold their fish. Several sites throughout the island were leased or rented by a group of fishers to use as a market area. Fish was sold at the West End, Williams Delight, Machuchal, and at a lot adjacent to the Western Auto in La Reine - perhaps the largest gathering place for fishers to sell their catch. Other traditional areas identified by our interviewees were: Molasses Pier, Gallows Bay and Altoona Lagoon. In all three places there are people waiting for the boats to arrive and the fish to be cleaned, gutted and sold (Figure 35). Fishers also leased other lots in town, especially those located near the Catholic School.

26 A fisherman’s description of Saturday as the fish market day.