Moscow expat life issue 14 spring 2016

SPRING 2016

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

The lowdown on Moscow’s psychologists Moscow Good Food Club Awards How to get a Residence Permit Airport Business Lounges 50 Shades of Grey tarmac Canadians in Moscow

HELLO SPRING

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Colophon News

4-8. Community News

Community

10. Russian Hospitality Awards 11. Social Movers 12-15. Moscow Networking Event 16-17. Babushkas Rule Our Lives 18-19. Professor Rupert Gerzer 20-21. Life is A Ride – Nikita writes about Moscow taxis 22-23. A Happy Move? Stephen Lapeyrouse finds shipping belongings out of Russia to be not that easy

Sport

24-25. Spartan Football Club

Travel

Food

64-65. MGFC Awards 45. The Friday recipe – Rich Shchi 78. Plov

Culture

36-38. Soviet Underground Artists 79-81. Marco Bravura; Italian mosaicist/sculptor

Features

40-41. Moscow’s Booming Psychology Industry 42-44. Soviet Rock – A Story of Contrasting Worlds 66-67. Applying for a Resident’s Permit 68-69. Adulescents in Moscow 70. International Women’s Day 82-83. Samson the giraffe at Moscow Zoo

Education

46-48. The English International School 50-51. International School of Moscow

Canadian Section

52-53. Lou Naumovsky 54-55. Nathan Hunt 56-57. Kelly Allin and the Moscow International Sunday Hockey Group 58-58. Neil Withers 60-61. Joel Koczwarski 64. John Schreiner

SPRING 2016

26-28. 50 Shades of Tarmac – driving through Latvia 30-31. Sudan.

32-33. Time to Put Armenia on the Map 34-35. Airport Lounges

Business

72-73. Big Data 74-75. Chris Weafer’s Column

Legal

76. Luc Connor 77. Chet Bowling

Lifestyle

84. Spring-Cleaning things

Classified

85. Classified advertisements

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafes and Restaurants 86. Moscow’s cafes, bars and clubs Listings 87-89. Community Services 90-91. Essential Information 95. Paying for your mobile phone at a terminal 92-94. Charities

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Editor’s letter

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Moscow expat Life is very popular and copies of our magazine go fast.

Order your copy on-line and have it delivered to your door. www.MoscowExpatLife.ru

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he Spring is here! At least it should be. No more long grey days for another six months.

Time to put away the warm heavy clothes and get ready for summer, although don’t put the coat into storage yet; Moscow’s weather can be capriciously unpredictable.

One community of expats which does understand Russian weather, and thus Russia, is of course the Canadians. In this issue, we are very happy to present interviews with seven of them, in our special ‘Canadian Section.’ These interviews hopefully represent in a humble way the hopes, aspirations and the raison d’être of the Canadian community in Moscow.

In this issue Marco Bravura, a quite brilliant Italian mosaicist and sculptor presents his work, the French Marie Giral talks about adulescants, Brit David Maltby instructs on how to obtain a temporary residents’ permit, and another Brit David Morley talks about his old rock’n’roll days (David, we never knew!) and his Russian musician friend Yury Stikhanov. American Stephen Lapeyrouse sings a song of woe about moving belongings out of Russia, and the inimitable Australian David Wansbrough reveals a deep and well-kept secret about who actually runs the show here – Babushakas!

Contrary to the usual negative opinion of Moscow expat life at the present time, there are amazing events taking place. Just before we went to print, we attended the quite spectacular ‘Moscow Hospitality Awards’ ceremony, in which 437 hotels took part from cities all over Russia. Some of the ‘EcoHotels’ or ‘Boutique Hotels’ are in cities, which I associate only with the dark old ‘SovDep’ days where the only hotels available were worse than terrible. Things have indeed changed. Most hospitality venues are now Russian owned and managed, but the branding is – still mostly foreign, which is an indication of our ‘deep structure’ importance.

The week before, the ‘Foreigners’ Life Exhibition’ was held in Moscow. Surprisingly for many, this was quite a success. In short – don’t write off Russia, and don’t write off our involvement in this country.

Colophon Publisher:

Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru

Editor:

John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Business Development Manager: Anastasia Sukhova, anastasia@moscowexpatlife.ru

Designer:

Julia Nozdracheva, chiccone@yandex.ru

Researchers: Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova Natalia Alexandrovna

Administration: Alina Kurpas Marina Noskova Свидетельство о регистрации СМИ ПИ № ТУ50-01602 от 15 января 2013 г. Выдано Управлением Федеральной службы по надзору в сфере связи, информационных технологий по Москве и Московской области Учредитель: ООО «Эй Ай Груп» Главный редактор: Джон Харрисон № 14, выход журнала 7. 03. 2016 Тираж: 30 000 экз. Цена свободная. Для аудитории: 18+

Contributors: Simon Green Kim Waddoup Chris Weafer Luc Jones Nikita Chris Helmbrecht Maria Ushakova Don Craig David Wansbrough Simon Cottrells Stephen Lapeyrouse Artemii Rogovoy Elena Mountyan Simon Green David Maltby Kaja Fosli Andrei Povarov Luje Conner Nodira Sadikova Elena Migunova Alexander Rogan David Morley

Editorial Address: 3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Mosvcow, Russia Tel: +7 495 777 2577 www.moscowexpatlife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru

All rights reserved Printed by Blitzprint, Moscow Representative office: 127051, Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10

Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.

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News Seventh Northern Dimension Forum

Cheburashkini Brothers

The Association of European businesses (AEB) is pleased to invite you to participate in the Seventh Northern Dimension Forum. The Forum will take place at the Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden on April 7th, 2016 (Bataisky pereulok, 3A, 190013 St. Petersburg). Forum will be devoted to the Arctic as a field of cooperative development.

For more information please visit www.aebrus.ru

Open to children of all abilities, the training camp aims to combine fun and learning through football. The training sessions incorporate fun, fast moving games that enable your child to enjoy a great football camp experience regardless of their ability. Your children will learn new skills, meet new friends and have lots of fun!

Date: Monday 28th March to Saturday 2nd April.

Venue: IRC ROSINKA, 143442.

Time: 10:00-17:00.

Ages: 5-14 All the children who attend the week will receive a British Football School football kit (shirt, shorts and socks).

For more information email info@britishfootballschool.com or call +7 925 433 5576. Our website is www.britishfootballschool.com

International School of Moscow Students from The International School of Moscow entered an Art Competition hosted by COBIS (the Council of British International Schools). Meanwhile, The International School of Moscow Rosinka Campus is hosting a Talent Show and a theatre production of Peter Pan.

English Language Evenings (ELE) English Language Evenings is an independent, open, public English-language lecture forum in Moscow, having hosted more than 250 meetings and ~200 different speakers since starting in 1998.

Please check our website for confirmation of Doran Doeh speaking upcoming bookings. Meetings are held in the in November 2015 Chekhov Library at Pushkin Square, Moscow.

11th March. Cayce Orion. Optimism In A Changing World.

25th March. David Wansbrough. – Love.

8th April. David Wansbrough. – Death.

22nd April. John Harrison. – Expats views of the Russia and the world. http://www.elemoscow.net

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The ‘Cheburashkini Brothers Family Farm’ has started to deliver its products to Moscow catering outlets. Especially popular are their sour creams, cottage cheeses and yogurts.

These products can be found in the most popular cafés and restaurants of the city such as ‘Coffeemania’ and ‘Bulka.’ In ‘Eat & Talk’ venues (Irish Pub and Деловая Гостиница), our products can be purchased in the usual form and packaging. Dairy farmers products can be bought in the Artemiy Lebedev’s cafestudio by, at the restaurants ‘Ginza Paul,’ ‘Sodexo’, ‘Klumba, ‘LavkaLavka Petrovka’ and other great places.

International School of Moscow Students

Two International School of Moscow students (Siyoung Ahn, aged 8 and Sally Chun, aged 9) have progressed into the final round of the National Primary Maths Challenge. Both students received gold for the main challenge and await results from the bonus round.

Irish Week 16 – 27 March 2016

IRISH WEEK 2016 — is the biggest festival of Irish culture in Russia.

The best Irish films, evenings in Irish pubs, the ‘Dance Irish’ dance troupe, a massive 8 hour festival: ‘St. Patrick’s Day and Night,’ our traditional St. Patrick’s Parade and much much more! Merge into the atmosphere of a real Irish festival. Come to ‘IRISH WEEK!’ http://irishweek.ru

News Big Brothers Big Sisters

Big Brothers Big Sisters will organize a series of master classes on March 12th – April 9th. Professional trainers will help participants to develop their personal skills.

Everyone is welcome to attend workshops with their children.

Recommended donation for event attendance – 1,500 roubles per day.

To register contact: Alyona Nazarova on: alyona. nazarova@nastavniki.org.

SKIING ADDED TO MOSCOW SOUTH-WEST’S PROGRAMME

Nastenka The Nastenka Charity Foundation helps children with cancer to get treatment at the Scientific Institute of Pediatric Oncology, where about 150 children from different part of Russian and CIS are being treated.

We plan to hold in March: A Spring concert in the hospital for sick kids and their moms.

‘Day of Beauty’ for moms of sick kids. Free haircuts, make-up and photo session.

We plan to hold in April: On April 6th, a garage sale at ‘Lavka Radostei’ 12:00-21:00 (M. Tsvetnoi Boulevard, Suharevsky).

In the middle of April: A Bowling Tournament for our partners, teams, or any volunteer teams (venue to be confirmed).

At the end of April, ‘Kid’s Dream,’ a performance in the hospital backed by our partner, Philips.

For more details, please see: www.nastenka.ru

WCR e.V. in Moscow

24th of March: IV EuroAsian Logistics Conference Trans-EuroAsian Logistics Platform: Practice, Products and Markets: plenary meeting and 8 expert sessions. Venue: Moscow, CCI RF, Ilyinka str. 6/1. Registration and program: http://tpprf.ru/ru/interaction/ committee/komlogistics/announcements/112751/ 19th of April: Transport and Logistics in transition Discussion on the issue: challenges and opportunities of logistics in the international and digital context. Venue: Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy Moscow 52 bld.6, Kosmodamianskaya nab., Moscow 115054

Celebrate Spring at St. Andrews

As a small and relatively new school EIS Moscow South-West is always looking out for beneficial additions to its existing programme and this year added a short course in Skiing at a local Ski Centre. Not only has this proved to be a very popular activity with almost all of Key Stages 2 and 3 taking part, but everyone seems to agree that this is a really practical way of adapting our curriculum to take advantage and make best use of our location.

Take advantage of these upcoming opportunities for spiritual formation, fellowship and fun at St. Andrews Anglican Church and Centre March 18 - 7pm Pub Quiz in support of refugees in Europe March 24 - 7pm Maundy Thursday Passover meal and eucharist March 25 - 12pm-15pm - Good Friday service of prayers and readings March 26 - 10am - Easter fun with eggs for kids March 27 - 11am - Easter Day festive Eucharist April 23 - 11am-4pm - Food Fayre with opportunities to taste food and wines from local and international producers and restaurateurs.

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FREE ROCK’N’ROLL JIVE DANCE CLASSES IN MOSCOW !

Beginners’ classes on Saturdays, held in English and Russian at the Esse Jazz Café.

Not essential to come with a partner.

For more information contact Richard at richardhume.hume@gmail.com or phone +7 903 558 71 35 Co-op Jive - www.coopjive.co.uk

Understanding Russian Culture (URC) Organised by Moscow expat Life’s editor John Harrison, URC’s goal is to understand, and help others to understand and appreciate Russian Culture.

Once monthly talks on aspects of Russian culture are given by Russian experts who speak English well at the Chekhov library, Pushkin Square.

Details of upcoming talks are on: http://uruc.weebly.com https://www.facebook.com/groups/1636163499978095/

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News Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’s Birthday Celebrations in St. Andrews Anglican Church and Centre

A CELEBRATION IN MOSCOW 10-12 June 2016

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group of enthusiasts has been meeting in the parsonage of St. Andrew’s Church to coordinate celebratory events for the Queen’s 90th birthday. Starting with nothing, ideas materialised, and these quickly turned into events. This exciting process is still in progress, and some of the events are listed below. More might well follow. For the latest news, we ask all who are interested in attending, participating and perhaps sponsoring this event to check out a special website created for the occasion at: http://qbcmoscow. weebly.com Planned events at the time of this magazine going to press include: • During the celebratory weekend of June 10-12, 2016 we will hold a unique concert honouring Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II performed by some of Moscow’s best musicians. We hope that Judith Weir, the current Master of the Queen’s Music, the

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first woman to hold this title, will be flying in from London to chair the festive evening. The repertoire of this special performance will be diverse and based on music created for royal occasions over the centuries, as well as music celebrated by countries all over the Commonwealth.

• On Saturday June the 11th we welcome everyone to come and enjoy a huge street party in the grounds of the church. Representatives from more than 35 Commonwealth countries are expected to take part in this jubilee. We will be entertained by Scottish pipe bands, and by musicians and dancers from all over Moscow.

This will be a very British garden party with beautiful cakes, traditional sandwiches, food from Commonwealth countries, and of course Pimm’s.

• A Sunday service on June the 12th will be held with special reference to the Queen’s birthday.

All are very welcome to attend.

• Throughout this celebratory weekend, an art exhibition of works created specially for the Queen’s birthday by school children at Moscow’s international schools will be held. In addition to that, jointly with the Old English Court Museum, we are developing a unique exhibition on the impact the British have made in the history of Moscow over the centuries.

Help in spreading the word, support of all kinds and of course sponsorship most needed.

For all further information, please see: http://qbcmoscow.weebly.com Please share your comments and suggestions at qbcmoscow@ gmail.com.

For information on sponsorship packages, please write to Father Clive Fairclough on: chaplain@ standrewsmoscow.org We look forward to welcoming you at Queen Elizabeth II’s Birthday Celebration on June 10-12 in St. Andrews Church and Centre!

News

The ‘Queen’s Garden’ offering ‘Seeds of Hope’

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n Saturday 11th of June, as part of Queen Elizabeth II’s birthday celebrations in Moscow, the St Andrew’s Church garden, which is currently being professionally landscaped, will be officially opened by the British ambassador to Russia, Laurie Bristow. The St. Andrews and Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy communities have united their resources to improve the gardens, which will be open to the public after the 12th. Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy has developed part of the the ‘Queen’s Garden’ for its quite unique ‘Seeds of Hope’ charity.

‘Seeds of Hope’ was created to help African refugees and victims of human trafficking use their gardening skills to earn money and receive healthy food. This urban farm is an experiment of true intercultural integration.

While learning how to cultivate cherry tomatoes, sweet and spicy peppers, cucumbers, and carrots in the Russian climate, refugees and volunteers get to know each other, learn about different cultures, and work together to take care of the plants.

Seeds of Hope is also an educational project, working closely with local students who

grow seedlings, build raised vegetable beds, and volunteer alongside the refugees. The ‘Queen’s Garden’ will give visitors a peaceful spot of natural beauty, and provide a base for a special and much needed charity right in the very heart of Moscow.

If you would like to support this joint project of the creation of the ‘Queen’s Garden’ incorporating the Seeds of Hope urban farm project, you can donate by visiting: http://qbcmoscow.weebly.com Please help make the ‘Queen’s Garden’ look right ‘royal!’

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News IWC 20th Annual Embassies of the World Dinner & Ball 2016

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he International Women’s Club of Moscow is proud to present one of its traditional, and yet most special events: the 20th annual IWC Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball, this year entitled ‘Butterfly Ball’!

Be prepared for a splendid evening at one of Moscow’s finest hotels and, if you like, an exclusive dinner beforehand at one of Moscow’s embassies. If you select the dinner option, your evening will begin with an elegant dinner hosted by an ambassador and his/ her spouse, who will welcome you at their embassy or residence along with a select number of other guests. You will be served a delicious meal and drinks from the embassy’s local cuisine. Afterwards you will proceed to the ball. Hotel Metropol, the luxurious and historical five-star hotel opposite the famous Bolshoi Theatre, welcomes our guests to an evening of ‘Dance and Romance around the World’ with delectable food and drinks, an entertaining program and, of course, dancing. In addition, you will be able to participate in a big raffle with exclusive prizes. And

the best thing: all proceeds of the evening will go to a good cause, namely, supporting charities!

The IWC is currently celebrating its 37th anniversary season, and we promise you that this edition of the Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball will be more festive than usual. So do not miss this wonderful opportunity and treat yourself and your partner to a unique night out at this fabulous event presented to you by the International Women’s Club of Moscow!

The 20th annual Embassies of the World Dinner and ‘Butterfly Ball’ will take place at Hotel Metropol on Saturday, April 23rd 2016. The dinners at the embassies will be held at their respective location from 6:30 pm.

The doors to the beautiful art deco ballroom of Hotel Metropol open. The ball starts at 9 pm and will last until 1 am. Guests are kindly asked to wear evening attire (tie and evening gown).

For even more information about the event, please visit our website www.iwcmoscow.ru or our Facebook page https://www. facebook.com/groups/55495839 7937133/?fref=ts. Tickets are on

sale now and can be purchased at one of the IWC’s regular events (for specific dates and further details, please check our website or Facebook page) or by contacting iwcedb@gmail.com. Here you may also address any additional questions you might have.

Ticket prices are 10,000 rubles for dinner and ball and 7,000 rubles for ball only.

Join us on April 23rdst for an evening of dance and dinner at one of Moscow’s embassies, followed by an unforgettable evening at Hotel Metropol. We are very much looking forward to welcoming you to the ball!

always welcomed and encouraged to attend any of our meetings.

If you would like additional information on the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, please contact us at awomoscow@ gmail.com Throughout the year the American Women’s Organization provides support to our main charity

Nastenka – a charitable Foundation that helps children with cancer.

Our largest fundraiser for Nastenka is the Artists & Artisans Festival, which is held every November. Last year we had a successful auction of art produced by children in the hospital amongst others and we look forward to continuing support for our charity in the future.

AWO

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ince 1993 the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, has provided support to expatriate women, and/or spouses, of all North American countries including the United States, Canada and Mexico. The aim of the organization is to provide social and cultural opportunities during their stay here in Moscow. The members are very friendly, open and always willing to share their experiences. General meetings are usually held on the first and third Wednesday of each month at 11:00 am. Newcomers are

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News

Hospitality Awards

Russia’s 2015 best hotels have been announced

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n February 18th 2016, Lotte Hotel Moscow hosted the Second Annual Russian Hospitality Awards Ceremony. The project’s goal is to make the Russian hospitality sector more attractive to customers through improving competition between hotels on the domestic and the international markets, and to stimulate a more favorable image for Russia on the international tourist market. This is very important right now, when preparations for the Soccer World Cup are going full swing.

Awards for Russia’s best hotel 2015 were given in 23 nominations: 1. Best Sport Hotel – ‘Sport Inn’ hotel 4, Sochi; 2. The year’s Best Marketing Campaign – Swissotel Krasnye Holmy, Moscow; 3. Best Historical Hotel – Rocco Forte Astoria Hotel, Saint Petersburg; 4. Best Mini-Hotel – Mercure Moscow Baumanskaya; 5. Best Ethnic Hotel – Jeval, Evpatorya, Crimea; 6. Best Design Hotel – Barvikha Hotel & Spa, Barvikha, Moscow; 7. Best MICE Hotel – Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg, Saint Petersburg; 8. Best Business Hotel 5 – Hyatt Regency Sochi, Sochi;

9. Best Business Hotel 4 – DoubleTree by Hilton Moscow – Marina; 10. Best Business Hotel 3 – Hampton by Hilton Volgograd Profsoyuznaya; 11. Best Apart Hotel – StayBridge Suits, Saint Petersburg; 12. Best Ski Resort and Hotel – Rixos Krasnaya Polyana Sochi 5*; 13. Best Luxury Hotel – Lotte Hotel Moscow; 14. Best Eco-Hotel – ‘Krymsky Breeze Residence’, Yalta, Crimea; 15. Developer of the Year – Amtel Properties (with Hampton by Hilton Moscow Strogino); 16. Best Economy Hotel – Hotel ibis Moscow Dynamo; 17. Best Boutique Hotel – RODINA Grand Hotel & SPA, Sochi 18. Best SPA Hotel – Luciano Spa, Kazan; 19. Best Medical Hotel – Altay Resort, Urlu-Aspak, Altay; 20. Best Country Hotel – Hilton Garden Inn Moscow New Riga; 21. Best Resort Hotel – Rodina Grand Hotel & SPA, Sochi; 22. Best Hotel Restaurant Pullman Sochi Center; 23. Opening of the Year – Hilton Garden Inn Ufa Riverside, Ufa, Bashkortostan.

This year, 437 hotels from all over Russia ran the competition. The organizers take pride in the fact that Contact information: Daria Kutychkina, PR-manager of Russian Hospitality Awards.

Tel: +7 (926) 011 96 10; E-mail: pr@hospitalityawards.ru www.hospitalityawards.ru

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every year a larger number of hotel industry objects join the Russian Hospitality Awards, which says a lot of the participants’ competition strength on the domestic market, their trust to the organizers of the Awards, as well as the development of a unique platform for the industry’s key persons’ cooperation and communication.

‘Deloitte’, CIS, acted as the independent Auditor and Supervisor for Russian Hospitality Awards 2015 to ensure a high level of trust to the competition’s results.

Russian Hospitality Awards is a unique quality sign marking Russia’s best hotels. Together with the Award, the winners were given flower bouquets from the Ceremony’s floral partner, ‘The Green Symphony’.

Among the Award’s partners were also listed large companies like: Deloitte, DLA Piper, JLL, Villeroy&Boch, Kärcher, Swiss Education Group, ‘Elanna’, Russian Caviar House, Nestlé Professional, ‘Comandir.Taxi’, MIKO with the brands Jura and Ronnefeldt, Brush&Blow, ‘ART Mebel Hotel’, ID Courier, Lantmannen Unibake Russia, Videoluxe, Global Point, ANS-Lingua, Birax and Mediasystem Group, as well as the industry’s key events: RHIC, Hotel Business Forum, Dotcomhotel Conference, Hotel Industry Forum.

Social Movers Maria Ushakova

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s an active social mover on Moscow expat scene, I am involved in three major projects, which I highly recommend for you to take part in: 1) June 2016: Queen Elizabeth II 90th Birthday celebration in Moscow (www. qbcmoscow.weebly.com) 2) November 2016: Captain Cochrane’s Scottish Express (http://caledclub. narod.ru/histe.htm). A

Don Craig

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ell talk about a Leap Year, this one is definitely starting out as a leap of faith. As businesses keep closing, new venues keep popping up, and only the strong have survived.

After 23 years of living here I have seen many things but though I still have faith, 2015 was one of the most difficult years I have ever seen and of course it affected the Restaurant,

Chris Helmbrecht

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e are moving into spring and early summer, which are the best seasons for Moscow’s nightlife. Cafés and restaurants will again conquer the sidewalks.

Bars and clubs will fight each other with the best open-air terraces and views. Moscow at its best.

Feel like catching some of the Russian pop star glam? Go visit Emin Agalarovs ‘Rose-Bar’, which he designed himself. The glass roof can be partially opened and the venue is trying to give you the feeling of being on a stylish yacht.

journey by train across Russia to celebrate Scottish and Russian culture.

3) One of a kind, cultural fund - ‘Vladimirsky Trakt’ (a project which supports Russian cultural heritage - Troikas, a global symbol of Russia) for regular events: www.bogdarnya.ru I still run Moscow Amateur Theatre, we host our final student’s production on Saturday, April 23rd in Metelitsa Theatre (Novy Arbat 21),

please join us! We have four fantastic shows to share with you. For a real Russian cultural fix, check out great lectures organised by the editor of this magazine, John Harrison, held at Chekhov’s Library ‘Understanding Russian Culture!’ http:// uruc.weebly.com/ For people who enjoy nature and would like to discover the wild side of Russia, join us on the first day of summer! We will be crossing from Europe to Asia

by foot! Our hiking trip will last 7 days, traveling along rivers in the Urals, though the villages of Ust-Uls and Zolotanka. From now on, with each contribution to Moscow Expat Life magazine, I will be making a prediction statement (my grand grand mother was a white witch from Siberia - I have super power of prediction). This spring season’s prediction is: The UK will leave the EU after the referendum :) Long live the Queen!

Club, and Bar business.

We have seen entire buildings sweep away in a single night, the rise in cost of goods, and the government implementing rules and regulations in regards to alcohol sales further raising taxes making everything more expensive.

With all that being said, Russia is still a land for dreamers and if you work hard you can see that there is an open horizon ahead.

The tourism business will

excel this year, so will the food & beverage trade.

Places like Imagine Café, Coyote Ugly, Dirty Blonde, Tap & Barrel Pub, Chicago Prime, and of course Papa’s Bar & Grill already have a strong foothold in the market so I believe you can depend on them being around for a long time. I know I repeatedly mention Papa’s over the issues but it is a strong example of a business giving people what they want, with record sales in the first two

months of 2016 to prove it. On February 26th Papa’s opened a second venue called ‘Papa’Zoo Bar & Grill’ which looks to prove that the formula really works, so much so that I have put my project on the back burner to ride shotgun on this project.

Whatever your taste, Moscow still has a huge selection of places to go and see so get out there and have a look. Moscow is and will continue to be the city that never sleeps.

‘Motel’ is probably the most fashionable place to be these days, it seems inspired by 1970s styled hotels in the U.S. and Tarantinos movies.

It offers a lobby and a few rooms, where people can hang out and sip cocktails, while listening to Mashup Pop Music.

‘Kvartira’ became the hardest door of Moscow.

The semi-private member club at Rochdelskaya is the favorite meeting place for Moscow’s rich and beautiful. They’ll meet at ‘Duran Bar’ for a few drinks on the open air terrace (Be aware! Its also a very hard to get in venue) and move over to ‘Kvartira’ for the afterparty. While

you can always line up at ‘Duran Bars’ door and you might even have a chance, if you come early and are properly dressed for a Moscow elite place, you won’t have a chance at ‘Kvartira,’ unless you are on the guest-list.

Despite the need for some fresh, openair, during this season; the secret hideout of Mendeleev, is still my favorite place and ‘living room’ these days. They manage to make the stretch between stylish bar and minimal techno club, where you can get some of Moscow’s best cocktails, but also listen to Berlin styled tunes.

‘Jagger’ is still the best party bar, especially with its summer terrace.

‘Konstruktor’ is a new underground venue. Its Art Director Sergey Sergeev used to be the director of places like Solyanka and LOL, so you know what to expect. You’ll find more of that on the art play rooftop bar ‘Rodnya’.

‘Time Out Bar’ is planning a roof for their terraces. I’ve seen the plans on Facebook and now I am wondering, when the construction will take place. It will make the terraces weatherproof, but also take away that special open-air feeling, which we all loved so much.

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Community

The 2nd Moscow Business Networking Club event

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Community

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Community

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Community

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Community

Babushkas

Rule!

David Wansbrough

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Of course if you live in a Moscow gated apartment and are driven to and from from a consulate or joint venture you may feel safe and buffered from the rather odd Russians who have noisy drunken parties at the next table in restaurants. But for a more real immersion, rent an apartment in a decaying Lego high-rise in Schelkovskaya. You will find that Gorky or Dostoyevsky didn’t have far to look to find literary plots.

ome years ago I was invited to a meal as the guest of a grandmother. One of the other visitors had come with his chest covered with medals. He rose to make a toast to the good old days when the mayor used to give veterans quality suits in May after the parade. Not like the rubbish Yury Luzhkov handed out. A toast to the Good Old Days when vodka was stronger, water was wetter and bread was better! Fury, then grief passed over the face of the Grandmother. “Were they the good old days in the 1950s when we were contacted by Lubiyanka to collect the remains of my father? In TWO suit cases?” The room was hushed.

Babushkas are the real controllers and the moral conscience of Russia. I am prepared to bet 84 roubles against a dollar that Mr Medvedev has a granny who tweaks his ear when he has been on TV and his tie has a crease. Once, in the more recent Good Ol’ Days of President Yeltsin when Moscow street kiosks stretched as far as the eye could see selling nonstandard vodka for less than bottled water, a Chechen petty thug pointed a massive barrelled pistol at me and demanded dollars.

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As I stuttered that I was a writer and had no dollars a tiny grandma walloped him on the back with her zontik (umbrella). “Leave him alone. He is our poet. He is our idiot.” The gunman looked repentant and said, “Poet. Sorry. Here’s some dollars. Sorry, Grandmother.”

She gave him another whack on the chest just to help him remember the lesson. A grandmother will tell you about Mendeleev’s real discovery. Not the Periodic Table of Elements, but Russian Standard Vodka. You will be informed that it is so pure that it is actually good for your liver.

Kids don’t listen to parents but a stern look from a grandmother has power. The psychological genius Vadim Petrovskiy visited Taronga Zoo. The chimps were seen through glass. Some naughty young males had a long pole. They were having a contest. One held the end of the pole horizontally and ran and stuck the other end in the ground. The impetus carried him high into the air as he tried to scramble to the top. Several made the attempt. Unsuccessfully. Then the naughty young chimps saw the venerable old bald muscular chimpanzee leader bend over.

Community There was a target worth aiming for! Who needs verbal communication? They all grabbed the pole and advanced. A big old granny ape just looked at them and raised her upper lip. It was enough. The little guys walked away like a lot of alcoholics pretending not to be drunk.

Vadim said:” It is a pity we have to reach a certain age to get such authority.”

Thank goodness for Spartak and soccer. Anyone who has been to a Russian Orthodox Church and tried to buy candles only to be elbowed aside by grannies knows they would make powerful rugby front row forwards.

But when you haven’t been seen leaving your apartment for a week, who is it that picks your lock and brings badger fat to rub on your chest to help your pneumonia? And makes borsch and feeds you precious dacha honey? A neighbouring grandmother!

Who knows what they have seen and experienced to get such wisdom...?

Western grans don’t have the same authority.

Back home on leave we don’t quite fit in and find our own cities perilous. Having moved into a house in an inner city area in Sydney we were asked to attend a Neighbourhood Watch meeting. A retired police sergeant spoke about waking and finding druggies stealing his TV. One had a knife so he hit him with a handy cricket bat (as one does). The retired policeman was charged and convicted for using more than adequate force. The lads were given parole and a noncustodial sentence. Then a university professor spoke.

She had moved interstate using two large removal trucks. Her two storey Victorian terrace house was full of boxes when she went to give her first lecture.

She returned that evening to a totally empty house.

Everything had been robbed. “Ha! That’s nothing,” said an Australian old lady. “I went outside to question some Middle Eastern types who were carrying out my neighbour’s Persian carpets to a van. I challenged them.

They were taking them away for expert cleaning. Did I have any? Yes I did. I showed them. They identified one from eighteenth century Khiva. They were spot on. They would clean it and two others for a $100 deposit and another hundred on delivery. They valued the carpet at about $20,000 so I agreed and paid, got a receipt and brewed them cups of coffee. And never saw them again.”

Here in Russia the grannies would collectively interfere.

Do an experiment. Respectfully address a wise old woman as Babushka and observe the reaction.

Although you may not be biologically related, you will begin to feel her mystical protective kinship.

Without even having a common language you will sense that you are in someone’s prayers.

We may have new young fit multilingual Institute graduates as capable efficient polite police in Moscow, but they have only an official function. Anyone who lives near a metro and commutes knows that Russian social order is ultimately controlled by grandmothers.

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Community

Professor Rupert Gerzer The expat scientific community has quietly been getting on with its work throughout the present global turbulences. Professor Rupert Gerzer, one of Germany’s eminent scientists recently moved to Moscow to head up Skoltech’s Space department.

In this interview professor Gerzer gives us a glimpse into the new hi-tech world of Russia’s new educational establishment Skoltech.

You are now a professor at Skoltech in Moscow. Please tell us about this institution.

It’s a new university, I think it is now 5 years old. It has been started from scratch, from an initiative by the then President Medvedev and oligarch Victor Vekselberg. The politicians and the business people got together and allocated a lot of money to launch a new business area with business incubators, and also a new educational facility. The idea is to bring together academics on the one side, and innovation on the other. The vision is to have something like a silicon valley in Russia.

The Innovation Park covers 50 or 60 hectares at the moment. At Skoltech, we currently have about 50 faculty members and we aim to have about 200 members by 2020.

There are about 200 students at the moment, and we aim to have at least 1,500, so all this incurs rapid growth.

Currently the university buildings are still under construction, and they will be complete in 2017.

Are you introducing western scientific principles into a Russian curriculum, or how is it being organised?

There is a model for the curriculum, and the model is from M.I.T. in Boston. The original plan, which is still holding up, is that M.I.T.

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injects its secrets of success into this context. But it is not only one way; it is more like the merging of Russian technologies, techniques and knowledge with techniques and knowledge from abroad to create something unique.

What is your role there?

I am 65, which is when you retire in Germany. I was the Director of the Institute of Aerospace Medicine of the German Aerospace Center (DLR) and Professor and Chairman of the Institute of Aerospace Medicine in Aachen, Germany, from 1992. I was asked if I’d like to come here.

During my previous career I visited Russia quite a lot. I was in Russia at least once a year. I have friends here in Moscow, so after consulting with them, I decided to come here. I now find it absolutely fascinating to try and fuse the advantages of the Russian world with the advantages of the Western world.

How is it possible to teach science and technology that has been created in the West inside Russia, which has a different political system or are science and technology and political systems different things?

I think they are different things.

We are not building rockets here.

We are scientists and we are developing solutions to questions.

Typically with science, you are interested in something that can be applied, and you file a patent, something that is done all over the world; there is nothing secret about that. We also have to publish. So what we are doing as scientists is hopefully good for innovation, and business, but also good for science as a whole.

Traditionally, over the last 20-25 years we have cooperated with Russia, even during the socialist times, we developed very close links with our friends in Moscow, especially in the field of space medicine. There was never any political problem among the science community. The main difficulty was getting visas sometimes. Humans are humans and scientists are scientists.

Basically, we have no problems.

The change from living in Germany to living in Moscow must be quite extreme for you.

How have you handled that?

Actually it is not so extreme.

I like it very much here. I had been to Moscow many times and I kind of knew what to expect, especially in the winter. There is a saying in Germany, maybe also in Russia: ‘there is no such thing as bad weather, there is only the

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wrong clothing.’ So this is a very positive change. Unlike for my American friends a flight home takes three hours and only about €200. Moscow is fascinating, I live in the centre of Moscow, I can walk anywhere, and when I can’t the Metro and public transport system is great. Taxis are cheap, so I really enjoy it.

How do you find Russians?

How long do you intend to stay here?

Well, Russians are the one reason I came here. It may take some time to get to know them, but when you have, you really have friends.

You can learn a lot from their ways, about how to live.

Not for ever because I must think about my age, but for as long as I am wanted here, and for as long as I am fit enough, and for as long as my brain works well enough. Fortunately my wife is with me, she has different interests but she likes it very much as well.

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Community

by Nikita

I

Life is a ride

t is 1:30am of a Saturday night in Moscow and I feel that I am in what looks like The Land of Toys*: Novi Arbat which during the day is a large, grey and anonymous boulevard, whilst at night its buildings light up in colours – the atmosphere is lively, vibrant and in the bars and nightclubs there is always the unsurpassed offer of amusement.

There, sitting in the stopped car, I wait for Candlewick** or Pinocchio, depending on the point of view, here for the sole purpose of ensuring my teenager arrives home unharmed. Suddenly, the rear door of the car opens and some boys looking like the Fox and the Cat*** take a comfortable seat.

I think, “Here we go, Pinocchio will follow shortly.” But no! Instead, the Fox and the Cat speak to me in Russian and ask how much I would charge to take them to a specific address. I try to look confused: “Sorry, I do not think I am actually understanding.”

I have been mistaken for a Chastnik or Bombila, or gipsy taxi. Since the Soviet time the illegal taxi service, in Russian slang bambitz or isvos, was very common, mainly due to a shortage of official taxis.

Even today, despite the law prohibiting illegal races, it is possible to see many people on the streets of Moscow with their arms raised searching for a lift. It is

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Community

a phenomenon that cuts across all social classes; all potential passengers alike raise their arm when they need it.

There are the drivers who work as Chastniki, who do it as a side job. A Chastnik can even act during breaks off from his main work. For example, he drives his boss to a private dinner at a restaurant, and during the two-hours lunch he throws himself on the market. The lucky passenger will be treated with a clean car and a polite, professional driver, temporarily Chastnik. Similarly, one can be taken on board ambulances when they are off duty. This may be, in the words of my Swedish friend Gunnar, quite convenient when one is (so to say) ‘chilly’ and is taken home supine.

The Bombila on the other hand are full time illegal drivers. For them it is a profession. So, negotiating with them is harder and more aggressive. Maybe they know the city better, but it is not to be taken for granted. I asked if it was risky to make use of these gipsy taxis – I meant in the sense of possible violence, and was told, by a Russian: “Undoubtedly yes! Actually, many drivers do not even get a licence, they are bought on the black market. Many barely know how to drive and the cars are never serviced. They are mostly Caucasian.” The official law on taxis stipulates that taxi drivers are in possession of a permit, that the vehicle is equipped with a taximeter, checkerboard stripes are to be painted on the side and vehicles are tested regularly. Depending on the region, taxis should be painted in the same colour.

The Moscow region chose yellow. Many of the various Chastnik and Bombila ‘recycle’ themselves, becoming ‘legal’ by working for official companies or by participating with private taxi services or ride-sharing,

such as GetTaxi, Yandex Taxi, Uber Taxi, whose cars mostly are coloured yellow. This trend is very well shown on a TripAdvisor’s review: “Well, the only thing non-local about Uber in Russia is the brand – the cars, the drivers are definitely local. The cabs and the cabbies are not imported from New York, that’s for sure!” In fact, the most prevalent feeling while taking these private taxis is that you have taken a gipsy cab; drivers often do not speak Russian, they do not know the streets of Moscow, and sometimes, ask their passengers to activate the GPS in their smartphone.

The moral is: official taxis, private taxis, gypsy cabs, and even car-pooling, car-sharing, ride-sharing, liftsharing… it’s all good… all over the world, (or almost), we are people who ask for rides from strangers, hoping and trusting that these will lead us to our destination.

* The adventures of Pinocchio which is a novel for children written

by Italian Carlo Lorenzini during the late 19th century, later dramatized by Walt Disney into film: ‘Pinocchio.’ ** Candlewick is a tall, thin boy (like a wick) who is Pinocchio’s best friend and a troublemaker. *** The Fox and the Cat are Greedy animals pretending to be lame and blind respectively, the pair lead Pinocchio astray, rob him and eventually try to hang him.

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Community

Stephen Lapeyrouse

A Happy Move?

Hello expats and friends.

A few ‘words to the wise’ for those of you who might be (considering) leaving Russia, about shipping. It is a bit long, so if you aren’t planning on possibly leaving, you don’t need to read it, unless for entertainment. It is how it was for me personally.

When I finally decided this past spring to leave Russia after 21 years, I got prices from four shipping firms in Moscow for sending my stuff. The prices for my professionally estimated load (~1400k, with no furniture; ~5 cubic meters -- best by air) varied widely, both by air and sea. From $5300 to $7800 for the same airfreight.

I chose the lower price, especially since it was also a ‘German company’ (which I assumed would supply German-quality service). The packing was done ‘professionally’ and quickly. In about six hours the job was done. All seemed to be going well... I must go in two days to Domodedeva Customs at 11am to rendezvous with the shipping company men, to sign a few documents, show my passport and face...

But at customs things started to go bad: they decided – because I am an American?, because they were in a bad mood, or vengeful, that day?, because 50 of 69 boxes were ‘Books’ and seemed suspicious...? -- to open all the well-packed 69 boxes. And since the shipping company had one man ill, I myself had to carefully repack the 50 book boxes (so that they would still not be damaged in shipment). Took me 5 sweaty hours in the hot hangar. The two shipping company men resealed the boxes.

The custom-agents found 1 book (out of 2,136 books) that had escaped the cull of the packers, which was indeed older than 1915 (the legal limit). It was a book in German about the German Classicists views of religion. They kept out one other book from 1915, even

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though it had a purchase receipt and proof that I had it shipped to me in Alabama inside the book, which 3 Customs agents saw.

Out of 69 boxes, they found this one ‘violation’ of export rules (or laws). One book. They then told me that my entire shipment would not be allowed to go.

There was also a dispute as to whether my brochures, booklets and magazines were ‘books,’ so the claimed number of items was said to be falsified, and that was a criminal act also. I was going to need to take all of my shipment out of the customs area, and bring it back some other time. The two books were to go to an ‘expertise’ at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, for a criminal investigation.

Having lived in Russia for 21 years, I asked to speak privately with the ‘nachalnik.’ I (consciously, manipulatively – and I was also very upset) begged them to let my shipment go, that it had been a pure mistake for one book older than 1915 to have been in the boxes, that I had already planned everything about my shipment and departure, that it would be a disaster if my shipment could not go,...that I was booked to fly two days later...

It took about 3 more hours. Those Customs guys helped us to re-file the filed documents so that at least my shipment could go. The 1+1 books were to be sent to MID to see if they were national heritage items. But my shipment could go.

I was there for 11 hours. I did not eat and was nervous the whole time... I arrived back at my place at midnight.

Arriving in Massachusetts, a week later I was informed by email by the ‘German’ company Russian rep that I would need to pay an extra $450 for the long time/ trouble that their staff had needed to stay at customs, and because the customs had to open my boxes. There was nothing about this in the contract; no mention of any such possible additional charges.

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So, I called Moscow and spoke to the ‘German’ boss about this. Interesting, but emotional fellow. German indeed, but 22 years in Russia. When I told him that I myself had had to repack the boxes at Customs, that I myself had convinced the customs boss to allow my shipment to go, not his staff, that instead of his previously mentioned 4 hours in Customs at Domodedeva I was there 11 hours, he actually said to me in our phone call – unbelievably, since that is what I paid for -- that “it had been a courtesy to me for his staff to have stayed with me all the 11-12 hours in the Customs.” I was astonished.

“They were just to deliver it to the Customs location...” I could not believe he said that! My contract showed they were to also handle, point 5: ‘Export customs clearance in Moscow including customs control, full set of export documentation’ as in the contract. He really had no good explanations to each of my comments contradicting the validity of this extra charge of $450, but he said it was ‘normal’ for this extra charge.

When I told him that I would be telling my expat friends about this experience, abruptly he said I would receive an invoice, and then he – the German boss cut off our phone connection. Their rep Ekaterina would not even tell me the name of the company that was holding my goods in Boston, only writing that if I did not pay quickly, I would incur additional storage costs in the USA. So, I paid. There was no other option. But, how to pay? They said either by bank transfer to Germany via SWIFT (which can take a week) or in their Moscow office.

Those were my two options. Nice.

So, if you decide to ship your things to the U.S. or out of the country: be very sure to adhere to all rules exactly, even down to a single book. If a problem starts, try to solve it with a bribe at the very start, quietly koneshna. And I especially suggest that you not save your money, by shipping with this ‘German’ company.

It’s not worth it.

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Sport

American Football’s Moscow Spartans

Artemii Rogovoy

W

hat is the first thing that comes to your mind when you think of a ‘Russian Sport?’ Probably, hockey. That’s fair — Russian hockey stars are world famous, they play in the best teams in Russia and the NHL (U.S. National Hockey League), are high achievers, and so on. What else?

Soccer. As a member of the European Football Association, the Russian national team and premier league clubs have been performing well since the Soviet Union era and soccer is the main team sport for amateurs — you will always find sport grounds

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with dozens of Russians of all ages kicking footballs around. But have you ever considered that Russian spirit and sport passion could find itself best in… American football?

Sounds ridiculous, but in the early 90’s, when everything American was so popular here, American football came to Russia and quickly grew to a semi-professional league with numerous teams, the most famous of which being — the legendary Moscow Bears. Further development wouldn’t have happened without help of Harry Gamble — the former general manager and president of Philadelphia Eagles, who did a lot of

work to bring Russian coaches and youth teams to United States for educational programs. As a result, the Russian national youth team won the European championship in 2002.

Today the Russian (American) football league has 5 divisions and about 20 teams, mainly from Moscow and the European part of Russia. All clubs are amateur — in an economic crisis it’s impossible to get any resources for non-Olympic sports.

The lack of money is overcome by participants’ enthusiasm: they take football really seriously. All teams have coaching staff. Some of the

Sport teams have even managed to bring American football professionals to the country. For example, the Moscow Patriots brought ex-Green Bay Packers fullback Bobby Rome as quarterback in 2013 and Moscow Black Storm acquired Tony Allen (former head of NFL Europe) for head coach position in 2015.

Moscow Spartans is one of the youngest teams in the league.

However, it has shown amazing progress during the last few years.

character in both offense & defence and were proudly honoured with bronze medals.

Currently Spartans are preparing for the 2016 season and have already made various personnel changes, mainly in coaching crew. One of them, Keary Larussi, a young American enthusiast from a football family, incarnates his vision of the game as an offensive line coach. He already had some experience as a head coach assistant with Ural Lightings — a team from Ekaterinburg, that has won local division in Ural region. Another is Sergey Ivanov — the only Russian with NFL experience. Sergey played safety in Tampa Bay Buccaneers and currently shares his experience with Spartans secondaries. The players’ roster also has some fresh blood — for example, Denis Krasnov, one of

the best Russian running backs. Together with quarterback Ivan Goloveshkin, wide receivers Alexander Scherbakov and Alexander Yatsunenko, Spartans are going to be a notable power in the upcoming football season in Russia.

Despite of its ambitions and amount of work already done, Moscow Spartans still lack genuine American football experience and are open for any kind of cooperation.

Founded in 2011, the team spent 3 years in ELAF (the Eastern League of American Football — amateur league for young Russian an Belarus teams) with a 5-12 score record. In 2015, the Spartans decided to join the Russian national championship and reached the semi-finals, where they lost to the future champions — the Saint Petersburg Griffins.

Spartans showed great skills and

For more details contact: moscowspartans.ru artemiirogovoi@gmail.com

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Travel

Alexander Rogan

I

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ntrepid, ‘Angleski’ Moscow resident and daring driver Alexander Rogan drives to places few of us have dared to.

In this article, he continues his journey from where we left him at the border with Latvia, at the end of his article in the Spring 2015 issue (Ed).

I arrived at the Russian Latvian border crossing and spent 3 hours being processed by the two Customs authorities. The Russians were quick and the Latvians obtusely slow. Our queue could have been processed in under 15 minutes but it was ‘Little Fuhrer’ mentality that day. No smiles. No ‘welcome to Latvia, have a nice day.’s Leaving the border region, the E22 runs from the Russian frontier towards Riga. It was a narrow grey, dilapidated road. A painful patchwork of repairs and holes waiting to be repaired. Construction nirvana for

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Shades of Grey Tarmac

E262 A13 highway, Latvia the Navvies, or not, depending on your work ethic. My speed was low as I navigated constant switchback corners and tight bends.

The road was surrounded by small green fields and abundant small woods. The latter displayed a greater variety of trees than in Russia. I passed an overgrown silver birch wood. Pretty but tatty, this was not a wilderness just unkempt and uncared for. The fields looked rundown. The ditches were not maintained. The edges of

the roads were falling apart. The place is crumbling. Even the HT posts, three 20’ lengths of wood knocked into a tripod, are slimy-green, starting to decay. This unloved region has had no investment in years.

The sky was low and grey. Dark clouds covered the horizon and the drizzle was constant.

The houses were quaint and small. There was an air of dilapidation. Smallholdings were surrounded by barns, many ruined. In between the hamlets I saw derelict factories. There was no vandalism. They were just big, empty shells. Each set a hundred metres from the road. Blank, dark windows seeing nothing. It looked lost and forlorn.

Apart from the derelict factories and their concrete awfulness, everything was wooden. All the houses were wood. There was

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E262 A13 no road an occasional nod to the 21st century with satellite dishes but any semblance of modernity was dashed by the tin roofs. There was uniformity even down to the pondgreen paint on exterior walls. Green was prevalent everywhere.

I left the town of Rēzekne and took the E262/A13, heading west. This road was bad. The ruts were filled with rainwater and the potholes sent jarring crashes through the car. The impacts were impossible to avoid. It ran straight like a Roman road but without the build quality. While straight, it was anything but level. Latvian road life runs on an adverse camber.

Railway line crossings were abundant, harking back to the Soviet era when the iron road was king. Most crossings had no barriers and were un-manned. Some had no warning signs, so caution was key.

50 kilometres from the border I hit road works. The E262 to Lithuania sounds like one of the great intra Europe highways and when you look at the map it stares back like a bloody great Autobahn. But the reality is very different. I saw no logic in ripping up every other kilometre of usable road. There were traffic lights, queues and ‘off-roading’ on crushed aggregate and mud. Signs were abundant saying ‘no overtaking.’

There was barely enough room for two oncoming vehicles to pass. The ‘uneven surface - next five kilometres’ signs were ironic; they were planted every five kilometres. The road was absolutely, bloody awful.

It took 2 hours to travel 90 kilometres to the town of Malta.

Forget images of Mediterranean sunshine and blue waters. The Latvian Malta was not quite a one-horse town but pretty close. There were the

Green house Malta pervasive wooden houses. Plus, all I can describe as ‘dodgy’ brick built houses. Not a brick built house built by a builder but built by someone who does not know how to lay a brick. As in ‘no straight edges or spirit levels were used in the construction of this building.’ It looked like the wrong type of spirit was used in construction and most of that was spilt. I saw aluminium clad houses, derelict houses, neglected houses that looked as if they had started to fall down when they were finished.

Corrugated tin roofs, roofs made of wooden slats, a yellow house followed by an orange house. They looked ‘home- made.’ There was not a straight wall anywhere. I saw one house where the front door was hanging at an incredible angle and the doorframe was cut to fit, also at an angle.

I had been travelling for over 12 hours and nowhere near my first layover point. A combination of adverse weather, bad roads and ‘no roads’ had cut my anticipated average speed by at least half.

Clear of Malta and road works for a while I saw the road heading west into the distance. It should have made driving easier. However, the highway was like a long ‘Filbert Street’ of San Francisco fame. I thought I saw clear ahead but then I was on the brow of a steep drop and plunging down. Not quite roller coaster but completely blind… there could have been 30 cars or a dozen trucks hidden in the dips. This made driving at normal speeds a ‘leap’ of faith. Even more interesting were the suicidal cars overtaking trucks, on my side of the road. I soon got the hang of the ‘arm out of window’ gesticulations as each unwanted drama unfolded before me. Just like home.

Malta 100 kilometres from the Lithuanian border and the scenery began to change. Trees were more concentrated and of less variety.

Timber was being harvested, the first sign of an agricultural industry.

Much like home, all was not so well with the ecology. As I crossed the river Rušonīca, a feed between two great lakes either side of the E262, I glanced down from the bridge and saw a great stagnant pond. The river was not flowing anywhere, even in the heavy downpour. It was a marine version of the unkempt woods and fields.

Like agriculture, the marine habitat was low on a list of priorities.

After the Rušonīca I arrived at the village of Dubna, another one-horse town. Pulling up at the red lights, signifying the latest stretch of road building, I saw a bow legged derelict stagger across the road, totally trashed.

A cross between a badly dressed Marty Feldman and Woody Allen, he paused in front of the town’s ‘produkti’ shop, scratching his posterior. He was a great advert for a happening place and summed up the locale entirely.

I left Dubna as the sun started to drop. The Latvian countryside looked pretty and very small. Tiny bales of hay dotted the fields. These were changing and starting to open up. It was as if the further from the Russian border, the greater the industry and investment.

After Dubna I entered the town of Malinova and yet more traffic lights, signifying yet more road works. More driving on crushed stone and mud. The rain had not reached Malinova, so great clouds of choking dust covered the road as I drove on the aggregate.

Malinova was large by the standards thus far and a sprawling dive.

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Maļinova church It was home to hideous remnants of Soviet architecture, in the form of three storey apartment blocks. These were flat roofed with aluminium sidings covering the balconies. They were complete with the beige brickwork, favoured by Soviets told to ‘throw up’ housing. All the homes sported corrugated tin roofs, even the Church I passed had a blue tin roof.

I passed what looked like a Military memorial, dated 1943. The Red Army rolled through a year later, so it may have been a reference to the Latvian Legion, enrolled by the Nazi invaders that year and who fought as part of the Waffen-SS. It was very early on into my journey, perhaps only 9 hours in total and I began to question the wisdom of driving. I also questioned the differences between the Baltic States I had visited. Estonia had roads, working roads. Lithuania had the same. Latvia on the other hand had crap roads, bad roads or no roads. Whilst I pondered and bounced along the E262, it threw up huge spumes of dust. Estonia had a working infrastructure, why was there such a difference between the two countries?

Lociki was the next habitation. I considered the similarities between Latvian roads and Russia as I drove.

There were some similarities but this was much worse. Even Smolensk was not as bad as what I was experiencing and that town got the civic ‘hand me downs’ from Nizhny Novgorod that had already been handed down from Moscow.

Lociki, population circa 1,340, started with a long line of shabby low garages adjacent to the road and then, looking very incongruous, three brand new office blocks. They were immediately followed by some 5-storey Khrushchev-era apartment blocks. Ugh.

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E262 Lociki Some of the apartment blocks looked derelict and then, just behind, some painted pale blue and obviously in use.

Without exception, the towns along the E262 were ugly.

Fortunately, the countryside retained some charm but the town planning and construction gave zero thought to the aesthetic.

Lociki is a former Soviet military airbase and was home to MiG fighter-bomber aircraft. The air base’s technical infrastructure, runway and buildings were left over and were the basis for the construction of a new Daugavpils International Airport.

However, the funding never arrived and the plan was shelved.

As I left Lociki, I thought that if you could export ‘dilapidation,’ the locals would be rich.

I passed concrete bunkers and pillboxes, all evidence of the military past. Lociki oozed ‘soviet-ness’ and, apart from the incompatible new offices, was stuck in a time warp.

The housing adjacent to the road was prescribed Soviet-style or in the process of falling down wooden hut.

On-coming traffic now had their headlights on as the gloaming approached. The atmosphere became oppressive and it felt as though the trees were closing in. Rank after rank of fir trees, impenetrable gloom in between, guarded the road. I recalled the British black-comedy film ‘Severance,’ starring Danny Dyer and Laura Harris. A bunch of co-workers supposedly on a team-building weekend in Hungary get knocked off, one by one by east European psychotics brandishing machetes and the like. This place epitomised a mix of old-Soviet and horror.

The woods were unfriendly, no impression of a Rivendell hiding elves or hobbits. This was home for gasmask-

Lociki apartment blocks garbed fiends, wielding chainsaws.

It was not somewhere where you wanted to breakdown. There were no white lines on the road, no streetlights.

The scenery changed before Daugavpils and the woods became less repressive. There was now space between the tress, giving them a chance to flourish. The road ran long and straight, the pylons tall and steel… Latvia was a tad more normal to my European eye. Every 10 kilometres or so there would be a break in the woods and lakes, looking very picturesque. This was a long way from Lociki and not only in distance, like a Soviet-horror film set transforming into something gentler.

The road, however, remained bad.

I crossed the Daugava River via an iron girder bridge. Its twin, albeit far rustier and dilapidated, carried a single rail track. No trains were evident but the E262 followed alongside the railway towards the west.

The trees disappeared as the countryside morphed into gentle rolling fields. Ubiquitous bales of hay scattered across the meadows.

Pretty though unkempt, looking like a garden left fallow.

My thoughts returned to my drive and whether I should have flown. Would I recommend the overland trip? If you are a masochist, do the drive, because it bloody hurts. Your nether regions will take an absolute pounding.

Last but not least, if you are a car manufacturer, you could save an absolute fortune on not building a test track. Bring your car to the E262 in Latvia, if it survives Latvia it can survive absolutely anywhere. The road is a truly dreadful patchwork quilt of repair on top of repair awaiting repair. Inimitably, it is quite colourful in a monochrome way – 50 shades of grey.

Travel Luc Jones

Palm trees on the banks of the Nile

Sudan I

’ve done many daft things in my 42 years on this planet, but stumbling off a plane, totally hammered onto the runway and into the terminal building at Khartoum airport must rank up there with some of my less clever stunts. The logic was that since Sudan is totally dry, we wouldn’t be touching alcohol for the next five days so we might as well fill our boots with the complimentary refreshments courtesy of Qatar Airways on the three and a half hour flight from Doha. Not surprisingly there were only a handful of other westerners on board so the stewardesses weren’t holding back on pouring whatever those who were drinking desired. At least in that respect, we did ourselves proud!

Let’s face it, Sudan is hardly a frontrunner as a global tourist destination.

For starters the President Omar AlBashir came to power in a military coup back in 1989 and there have been few signs that he’s in any hurry to vacate his post anytime soon. Bashir has been indicted by the International Criminal Court, charged with a campaign of

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genocide against his own people in the Darfur region, so he no longer leaves the African continent, and is reported to have embezzled state funds to the tune of $9 billion. Hey, when you’re the only guy in charge, who’s going to stop you, and this is on top of various accusations of harbouring and providing sanctuary & assistance to various Islamic terrorist groups in the region. Back home, the governmentbacked Janjaweed militia orchestrated a campaign of murder, rape and general terror throughout western Sudan, and I nearly forgot to mention that the country has been governed

by Sharia law since 1983. So there you have it; I just had to go!

Before arriving, I had assumed (and this turned out to be a popular misconception about the country) that Sudan would simply be a poorer, less-developed version of Egypt.

Another lesser-known fact is that Sudan has more pyramids than Egypt, even if they are smaller, they can be climbed, it turned out. Khartoum itself feels at the crossroads between the Arab world & black Africa, which is appropriate given that it is situated at the confluence of the White & Blue Nile rivers. It’s an obligatory spot for a photo opportunity even if the background is

hardly spectacular although this is the place where etymologists believe the city got its name; Khartoum means ‘trunk’ in Arabic as the landmass between the two rivers looks like an elephant’s trunk – apparently.

Whilst I wouldn’t call myself a museum buff, the National Museum of Sudan is well worth an hour of your time, and depicts the country from prehistoric times to the present day. Perhaps surprising for a country, which is 97% Muslim, is how much space is devoted to Sudan’s Christian heritage, and even more surprising is how many churches there are in downtown Khartoum. The capital might be less than 200 years old but has claimed some notable victims in its short history, none more so than the British Army General Charles Gordon, whose Anglo-Egyptian garrison was massacred in 1884 following the end of the siege of Khartoum. Revenge was to be gained in 1898 when Kitchener’s forced retook the city, defeating the Mahdist forces ay the battle of Omdurman, which is now effectively a large suburb of Khartoum. Their leader, Muhammad Ahmad was killed in the battle of Omdurman, and his tomb can be visited, even by non-Muslims.

Sudan’s real treasures lie outside of the city; the best-known being the Black Pyramids of Meroe, a two-hour drive north-east from Khartoum. Whilst not as big as their Egyptian counterparts at

Travel Camel on the banks of the Nile

Desert scene

Ruins in the desert

Giza, there are around two hundred and are built with darker stone. Many unfortunately lie in ruins and you can thank the Italian treasure-hunter Giuseppe Ferlini for trashing the tops of them back in 1834 as he dreamed returning home rich. Despite now being a UNESCO World Heritage site, don’t be surprised the place is virtually deserted apart from a few locals selling trinkets near the entrance. Although Meroe can be done in an easy day-trip from Khartoum, it’s worth spending the night to see the pyramids change colour at sunset and at sunrise, if you’re up early enough. The grilled chicken dinner was lovely but would have tasted even better with a beer!

Also worthy of a visit is Jebel Barkal in the Northern State, not far from the town of Karima, on the banks of the Nile. This is Nubia land, and the Jebel (‘hill’ in Arabic) is 100m high, but easily climbable for amazing views over the Nile and the pyramids beyond. Also UNESCO-listed due to the ancient city of Napata at the base, it’s been keeping archaeologists busy for decades as they uncover more of Sudan’s fascinating history. Once you’re tempted out, the best way to relax is with a boat trip along the famous Nile, where the pace of life is much more in tune with rural Africa. You’ll also spot

camels by the shore although they seem to ignore passers-by. Given the role that the big river plays in people’s lives, it won’t come as a shock to hear that fish is a popular dish, generally served with freshly baked bread with crushed chillies & squeezed limes as an accompaniment.

The standard question I was asked upon returning was “is it safe there?”

The simple answer is “yes,” and friendly too. You’ll see very few other tourists on your travels yet those who do make the effort will find that you have the place to yourself, and at no time did we ever feel anything more than welcome.

Sudan is most certainly an off-thebeaten-track destination and likely to stay that way for the foreseeable future – the country will probably never turn into a birds, beaches & booze destination (although the scuba-diving off the Red Sea is supposed to be top notch). Yet you will have the kudos of having been somewhere where most haven’t – apart from 40 Million Sudanese, that is!

Getting there: there are no direct flights between Moscow & Khartoum but the journey can be easily done on either Emirates, Turkish Airlines, Qatar Airways or Eithad via their respective hubs in Dubai, Istanbul, Doha & Abu Dhabi.

Getting in: everybody requires a visa to enter Sudan, and normally these need to be obtained in advance, which outside of Africa are tricky to obtain.

However, Waleed Arafat who runs Lendi Travel can obtain these upon arrival with a minimum of fuss upon arrival; he will meet you off the plane and sort everything out (e-mail Waleed at: waleed.travel@gmail.com). In fact Waleed is widely regarded as THE person when it comes to tourism & will put together a tailor-made trip for you.

He also speaks excellent English.

Staying there: Khartoum has top-end hotels although these cater mainly to visiting businesspeople. Tourists are often housed in the centrally-located Acropole, which is run by two Greek gentlemen (who were born in Sudan), which can hardly be classed as hardly luxurious but very friendly & offers a more than reasonable breakfast, as well as advice on what to see & do in the country. Expect to sleep in a tent by the Pyramids of Moroe, but in Karima we were pleasantly surprised by our lodgings.

Spending there: The official currency is the Sudanese Pound. Bring cash with you, preferably US Dollars as credit cards are useless in Sudan due to the international economic embargo placed on the country. Ignore the bureau de change booths at the airport; Your driver/guide will get you a much better rate on the black market.

Speaking there: Over 100 languages are spoken in Sudan, but only two are official; Arabic & English. In Khartoum most street signs are in both although these thin out once you leave the capital. English is not widely spoken outside of touristy areas although since Sudan is not really geared up to individual tourism, you’ll be given an English-speaking driver and/or guide.

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Travel

Jason White

Time for Armenians to put Armenia on the tourist map

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igrannes the Great, Gregory the Illuminator, Mesrop Mashtots, Moses of Chorene, Herculius, Andranik, Artem Mikoyan, Tigran Petrosian, Charles Aznavor, are among Armenia’s most famous.

Mount Ararat is the symbolic and iconic final resting place of Noah’s Arc. Churches from antiquity including Tatev, Geghard, Garni and Zvarnots. This a country of culinary delight; Lavash, Khash and Dolma.

Pomagranit, Apricots and Grapes, all are national produce. Worldrenowned wine to match the world’s best producers is produced here. In the summer, there are the unknown alluring and peaceful waters of Lake Sevan and its beaches, and in the winter the Tsaghkadzor and Jermuk ski locations provide more than adequate skiing facilities at very reasonable prices. Armenia’s

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geography and nature can often be mistaken for Switzerland or Scotland and the comparison is there to see especially in places such as Diligen and its Aragots region.

This country first introduced Christianity to the world back in the 3rd century. Armenia is a place of supreme and natural beauty, a small country with a big heart. Small it may be, but the country is home to some of the most beautiful women in the world.

Given its history and undoubted natural beauty it is a surprise therefore that globally there is so much ignorance of Armenia as a tourist location. Because of its history, Armenia enjoys a historical and rich diaspora far and wide and to all corners of the globe: Argentina to Canada, Russia through to Australia. But why then is it that there is such a lack of knowledge of what Armenia has to offer as a

tourist destination? The country’s Soviet past is one reason. This is a legacy that many former Soviet countries have had great difficulty

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throwing off. Furthermore, very little tourist infrastructure was created during the Soviet Union, and the country has been too poor to invest much in that direction since gaining independence in 1991 and becoming the Republic of Armenia.

Armenia’s tourism statistics are telling. Armenia’s share in the European tourist market is currently only 0.08%, and it attracts only 0.04% of worldwide tourist arrivals.

The country was 89th in the 2015 World Economic Forum’s Travel and Tourism Competitiveness Index ranking, compared to Russia’s 45th, although statistics for that rating were gathered before recent events.

According to Ruben Minasyan, rector of the Armenian Institute of Tourism, Armenia uses only 30% of its tourism potential. Young people in Russia and western Europe are simply not interested in going to a country that has virtually no recreational tourist destinations.

However, all this is changing.

According to the Armenian ministry of economy, 1.2 million tourists visited Armenia in 2014, an 11.3% rise from the previous year. A growth was reported also for domestic tourism that grew by 28.4% from the year before to 859, 000 people.

2015 was indeed a year of great turmoil within the travel industry, given the terrorist attacks in Tunisia, Egypt and recently the military stand off between Turkey and Russia. Northern European countries and Russia in particular have paid a heavy price through terrorist attacks, specifically from the Tunisian beach massacre and the Russian Airbus A321 disaster over the Sinai, with the tragic loss of all 224 on board.

This has seen air routes closed and hundreds of thousands of bookings to these countries cancelled.

Behind the scenes, there is a realignment of potential tourist countries to visit. We are talking about a share, for example, of 10 million Russian holidaymakers that now have to choose alternative destinations. Armenia has a strong historical, friendly and economic relationship with Russia. It is politically and economically linked with the newly formed Eurasian market. It is renowned for its friendliness and openness, with over 300 sunshine days a year. This is a safe and secure location to travel to.

According to Gallup’s Law and Order Index, Armenia is 9th place among 141 countries with 82% of adult Armenians feeling quite safe.

The Armenian Tourist Ministry urgently needs to concentrate on increasing marketing and advertising campaigns highlighting Armenia’s potential both in summer and winter holidays. When I mention Armenia as an alternative holiday location here in Russia I have had Muscovites ask me about infrastructure, standard of hotels and security issues. Clearly, as far as Russia is concerned, there is a complete lack of knowledge about Armenia.

It is time that the country stepped up to the table and showcased what a beautiful, enduring, and remarkable place it is. There has never been such a time given the geopolitical situation, for Armenia to act. If she decides not to, Russian tourists will soon be making their way in their millions to Georgia, Azerbaijan to name but a few other historical touristic destinations, which also have vast potential. The collapse of one tourist market only means the creation or reinvention of others. It remains to seen which countries are smart enough and can raise enough cash, quickly, to invest in infrastructure to invite tourists whose expectations and standards have risen considerably over the past 25 years.

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Travel

Simon Scotting

T

here is nothing glamourous about modern air travel.

From the humiliation of the security screening theatrics, to the crush of angry humanity packed in far beyond their comfort zone, no one actually enjoys the experience of flying from A to B. It seems to be a necessary evil we suffer as quickly as possible to reach our final destination using the closest thing we have to time travel.

Luckily there exists a small way to reduce the traumatic effects of air travel, a calm oasis in the middle of the storm: The Business Lounge.

Business lounges exist in airports to soothe the nerves after dealing with the terrors of the airport, and when properly utilized can be used to induce a trance-like state to carry you through most of the air journey itself. There are 3 ways to access the business lounge: 1. Travel business class 2. Travel frequently enough with the same airline group (One World, SkyTeam, Star Alliance) 3. Purchase access one-off through an annual membership If you already travel business class, then congratulations on having too much money (or working for a company which doesn’t realize Russia is in a crisis).

If you travel frequently, join an airline loyalty program and try to always stick to flights within the group to gain enough ‘points’ to gain ‘elite status’. Once you have achieved a certain status, you will

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Airport Business Lounges receive free access to business lounges globally whenever you travel in regular economy class with any airline within the group. If you live in Moscow, you might want to consider joining the Air France KLM frequent flyer program (Flying Blue) since they have a relatively low threshold of 40,000 annual miles (or 30 flights) for ‘Elite Plus’ status required for business lounge access with any SkyTeam airline (Delta, Air France, KLM, China Southern, China Eastern, Korean Air, Kenya Airways, and more). Aeroflot requires 50,000 annual miles (or 50 flights) for the same SkyTeam ‘Elite Plus’ status, which means that you can access the business lounge on Aeroflot flights if you have accumulated 40,000 miles on an Air France KLM frequent flyer membership, but not on an Aeroflot frequent flyer membership.

If you don’t travel often, purchasing a business lounge membership will be the only way to gain access. You can purchase single access at various airports for €20-50 depending on the location, but it is more cost effective to purchase an annual membership with a company like ‘Priority Pass’ for €250-€400. Some airport business lounges are better value than others, so purchasing single access can be a gamble unless you are familiar with the airport (and if you familiar, you are probably a frequent flyer with status access anyway).

Business lounges are useful before departure, but they are

really useful at transit hub airports between connecting flights. Some airports also have business lounges for arrivals, which some might think as obsessive, but they are there to be used by someone (why not you?).

They vary enormously in quality depending on the airport, but they will always be a better place to kill time than the airport itself.

Once you have access beyond the velvet rope, you need to get strategical with your time in the business lounge. Here are my top tips: 1. Arrive early. This applies to any kind of travel, but it’s worth repeating again and again. Planning to arrive early will significantly reduce stress and therefore result in a better experience. If something does arise, you will have time to solve the problem. If you are early, you will have more time to enjoy the business lounge. Both options are better than sprinting through an airport or rebooking a flight you have missed.

2. Shower. Airports and airplanes are filthy. With non-stop usage there is no time for a proper cleaning. The stress and nuisance of the check-in and security charade is de-humanizing.

Almost all business lounges offer shower facilities and these should be used without any hesitation. Unless you have just exited an airport hotel within the terminal, the shower should be the first thing you do after arriving in a business lounge. Don’t be shy, the squeaky wheel gets the oil. As soon as you enter, ask the lounge receptionist

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for shower access. There is sometimes a waitlist, so get on it as soon as possible.

There will be towels and toiletries provided, but you might want to plan on having some extra clean clothes in your carry-on luggage. Between connecting flights, it is incredibly revitalizing to have a long, hot shower and change into some fresh socks. Take your time in the shower, you’ve come a long way baby.

3. Food & drink. After the shower is sorted, get tucked into the free food on offer. Different lounges will have varying quality of food, but most is similar to the business class food you would find on a plane. I would recommend eating as much food as possible to avoid eating on the plane itself.

Don’t be shy, stuff yourself silly.

This will allow you to maximize your sleeping time on the plane which is the best way to pass the time in the sky. When the Aeroflot stewardess offers the ‘cheekin or feesh’, you can smugly reply ‘nyet’.

Look around at everyone else after they finish their meals and are stuck looking at their meal tray, the look of regret in their eyes will tell you the decision was right.

Take some fruit, sandwiches, etc., with you if you want. This is not strictly allowed, but as long as you are not taking the piss and trying to take the entire salad buffet the lounge staff will not be bothered.

There is free booze in the business lounge, and many first time visitors (and some repeat visitors) will treat it like the start of a ‘zapoi’. I would recommend abstaining from booze since it will dehydrate you, and the recycled air on a plane is already very dry. It might seem like a good idea at the time, but you will probably regret it. Use your own judgement.

I would recommend drinking as much water as you can to battle the effects of dry, recycled air on the plane.

Usually there are bottles of water, so feel free to stash a few of these in your carry-on luggage. As with the food, take a few bottles of water with you to avoid waiting for the stewardess to refill your little paper cup on the plane.

As with the food, don’t be afraid take what you want. Bringing along a plastic carrier bag from an airport store will not be questioned as extra carryon luggage by the airline, take advantage of this loophole.

4. WiFi. Modern airports will have some kind of free WiFi internet access, but the business lounge will have its own network with faster speeds (and less people trying to connect). Ask for the WiFi internet password as soon as you arrive in the lounge and book a shower space. Use this to download movies or (shudder) get some work done.

5. Enjoy the space. The general traveling public in airports can sometimes resemble the cast of extras from a Gogol play. Before you have to sit cheek by jowl with a few hundred of them, take a moment to enjoy being alone. There will be a lot less people in the business lounge, so find a quiet spot and spread your stuff around to keep others away.

This is your moment of Zen. Most airport lounges do NOT announce plane boarding times, so keep track of the time or set an alarm on your phone or watch (or phone watch?) so you don’t miss your flight. With enough shower steam, food, and WiFi you can build up your store of serenity to handle the flight and arrive with a bit of your dignity intact. Good luck and best wishes for a slightly less shitty flight.

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Culture E. Mountyan

Second Russian

Avant-garde

Writer and art collector Elena Muntyan gave a lecture about Soviet underground artists at the first lecture of ‘Understanding Russian Culture’ held at the Chekhov Library. The following is a summary of her lecture.

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n the late 1950s a few artists in the USSR began to work in an alternative style – and ‘unofficial art’ was born.

The ideas and works by Oscar Rabin, Vladimir Nemukhin, Boris Sveshnikov, Ernst Neizvestny, Vadim Sidur and others came to the forefront of artistic life, albeit deep in the underground. Eventually they broke through, the dominating Soviet official mold of Art. The paintings of the most talented of this group are now highly prized on the international market and continue to be sold at international auctions.

What gave rise to this fresh view of the world and of society? In the mid 1950s, after Stalin’s death, Soviet society was still very closed, and the official art form was Socialist Realism. Then the International Festival of Youth and Students took place in the summer of 1957.

Today it is difficult to imagine what impression this had on young Soviets – they had never seen foreigners and many had never even heard a foreign language. It was a real culture shock.

For the artists, of course, the most important thing was to absorb information about contemporary foreign culture. In Gorky Park during the Festival there was an exhibition of contemporary art with some paintings by Jackson Pollock as well as other contemporary western artists.

At about this time, groups of artists, poets and intellectuals, who wanted to work differently from the

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official style began to materialise.

The most famous was the so-called ‘Lianozov’ group, which included the artists Rabin and Nemukhin.

Oscar Rabin was the unofficial leader of this group. He became an orphan at the age of 13 at the beginning of WWII. The boy survived to study painting and drawing, earning a living by unloading railway wagons. In the late 1950s, he organized the art group ‘Lianozovo,’ named after the village near Moscow where he lived at that time. Rabin’s house became a centre of the artistic movement that was known in the West as the ‘second Russian avant-garde.’ Young Rabin was a very brave person, he became the leader of the ‘Bulldozer Exhibition,’ an out doors exhibition in Moscow in 1974 which was literally bulldozered down by the authorities. In 1978 Rabin was deprived of his Soviet citizenship and he emigrated to Paris with his family. He still lives there.

Rabin’s works, including his still lifes were painted in dull tones. They were a blend of ‘black’ grotesque and intimate sad lyricism; a mix of classic images that he took from the Renaissance, mixed with Soviet reality, and painted in a semi expressionist manner. His paintings had clear political messages such as in his painting ‘Passport.’

Vladimir Nemukhin, another leader and organizer of the Bulldozer Exhibition, was expelled from the Soviet Art Institute for varying from the

socialist realist style. For some time, Nemukhin painted abstract paintings and then found his special technique – playing cards. The most common motif in his paintings is that life is a game.

Now the artist is considered as a classic of the second Russian avant-garde.

Both Rabin and Nemukhin, are alive and have been very successful for the last twenty years.

During the 1974 Bulldozer Exhibition, people came who were mostly friends of the artists.

Fortunately for the artists, foreign correspondents also attended. As soon as the artists started holding up their paintings to show them to the public, the KGB charged in, grabbed their works and threw them to the ground.

The artists jumped under the trucks to save their paintings being physically destroyed. It was a true theatre of the absurd. Some artists were arrested, including Oscar Rabin. But soon all were released – because word had got out, and the Soviet government did not want to spoil its image.

But not all of the most talented artists belonged to groups. These were gifted loners who simply went

Card Painting by Nemukhin

Culture

their own way and their path is very special. These were Zverev and Sveshnikov.

Anatoly Zverev was born in 1931 in Moscow and spent all his life in this city until he died in 1986. Zverev never knew where he would spend the next night, he looked like a vagabond, always wore shabby clothing and was often drunk. But he had an ability to surround himself with a small group of friends who supported him. His language was metaphorical, his manner was sometimes provocative and he suffered from mental instability. Zverev was absolutely indifferent to money. ‘I’ll paint lots of masterpieces, I’ll immortalize all of you guys, and, if you become rich, I’ll be happy, too!’ –Zverev said to his friends. The artist himself needed just 3 roubles to buy a bottle of vodka, a fact known by a lot of people who exploited his talent.

Despite his image and life style, collectors noticed his paintings, and many came to respect him. George Costakis, the most famous Soviet art collector said that Anatoly was “one of the most talented artists in Soviet Russia... A unique phenomenon.” In 1965, Igor Markevitch, the French

Painting by Anatoly Zverev

conductor and composer, organized Zverev’s first exhibition abroad in the Galerie Motte in Paris. But that didn’t change the way Zverev lived at all.

Once in the 60s Zverev’s self-portrait was printed in Life magazine, beside a portrait of Vladimir Lenin by the Soviet artist Serov. This publication showed the contrast between underground and official art. Nikita Khruschev found out about this publication, and Zverev was fired from the Sokolniky park where he worked, because the director saw him using a mop for painting with.

Zverev had a very free and expressive manner of drawing.

He used not only a brush, but his fingers, a wooden stick, a palette knife to paint with. Zverev never turned completely to abstract painting, in his pictures we can always see a human figure or face.

It’s amazing how Zverev could express the character of a person with barely noticeable details He left many pictures and drawings after him (about 30 thousand) because he simply couldn’t stop. Now we can see some of his works and films about his life in the Zverev Museum near the Metro Station Mayakovskaya.

On the 9th of February 1946 Boris Sveshnikov, a nineteen-year old student, left his parents’ house in Moscow. He went to buy something in the shop next door and returned home ten years later. Sveshnikov was arrested for ‘participation in a terrorist group’ that supposedly plotted an attempt on Stalin’s life.

Sure, the young man had never heard about such a group, but he was from a noble family, so potentially he could have been the enemy of the Soviet power. He was sentenced to 10 years in the camps.

His arrest became a tragic point in his career, his camp drawings are something unique in the history of world art, the story of their

Portrait by Boris Sveshnikov creation is highly unusual, the reality reflected in them is extraordinary.

Drawn in pen and ink, very occasionally in brush, on ordinary paper, they represent a fantastic world where the Northern tundra becomes the landscape of eternity, and where nightmares become everyday life.

Sveshnikov had been drawing since he could remember. He spent 3 years in the Moscow Institute of Decorative Art, where there was an all-embracing atmosphere of Soviet Socialist Realism. His true teachers were old masters, and his school was the Pushkin Museum of fine Art in Moscow. It was the world of his dreams and art for him was like a magic crystal ball through which he looked at the real world. Sveshnikov carried this crystal ball with him to prison, then to camps and after that back to freedom.

Sveshnikov said that those years were ‘a period of completely free creativity. I received my daily ration of bread and I drew what I wanted.

No one was in charge of me. No one showed the least bit of interest in me.’

The only exception were his ‘clients,’ fellow prisoners who asked him to draw their portraits on little scraps of paper so that they could send them home to their families. In January 1954 Sveshnikov returned to Moscow.

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Culture

Ernst Neizvestny

Sculpture by Vadim Sidur

Sveshnikov always used a thin layer of paint in his paintings, he avoided bright colours, and liked mixing different ages and styles of art in strange combinations. Characters from the 18th century appeared in the reality of Stalin’s camps. Later he lived in the small town Tarusa, then in Moscow where he worked as an illustrator for publishing houses, choosing books and authors whose spirit was close to his own: Goffman, Goethe, Dickens. When the works of the unofficial artist began to attract attention of collectors they began to buy his works. After his death in 1998 many drawings and oil pictures remained in his flat. I know the gallery owner who began to sell Sveshnikov’s work. A few years after his death, the price of his works went up a hundred times.

Ernst Neizvestny is a sculptor, an artist and a philosopher, and has a unique creative personality. In the USSR, Neizvestny received a classical art education, but in 1941 he became a soldier. Having returned to work after the war, he began searching for a new expressive artistic language.

By the end of the 1950s Neizvestny had created monumental sculptures around the world and had become one of the most prominent figures in the artistic life of the USSR .

In 1962 he participated in the exhibition in the Central Manege hall in Moscow. The works of young

artists, especially sculptors, were not liked by the head of the USSR Nikita Khrushchev. Ernst Neizvestny was the only artist who dared to argue with Khrushchev, which led to the sculptor being exiled in 1976. Despite that, Khrushchev’s family asked Neizvestny to create a monument for Khrushchev’s tomb, he agreed, and today the monument stands in the Novodevichye cemetery.

Away from home, Neizvestny created many masterpieces. His monuments and sculptures were established in many cities around the world, in Geneva, Stockholm, Moscow, Perm, Magadan, at the Kennedy Center in Washington and in New York, where the master lives and works. Neizvestny likes to create very large compositions in sculpture, such as the Tree of Life and the Mask of Sorrow established in Magadan. His works are in museum collections and important private collections worldwide, including the collection of the Vatican. Today, despite his age, Neizvestny continues to create and there is now a large exhibition of Ernst Neizvestny in the Manege Hall in Moscow.

Vadim Sidur, a sculptor was a disabled veteran of the War and expressed pain, suffering and tragedy in his work. Vadim Sidur is one of the most significant Russian sculptors.

During thirty years of working in his basement studio, Sidur has created more than 500 sculptures and over

Painting by Andrey Mountyan 1,000 prints. His monumental works have been erected in many German cities and in the USA. The English playwright S. Beckett saw in 1975 the sculpture ‘Disabled,’ and wrote: ‘a powerful and moving work, the silence of anger and compassion.’

Human bodies in his works are crippled and we realize that the souls of those people also suffered.

The Vadim Sidurs Museum was established in Moscow in 1989. It is the only Moscow state museum devoted to modern sculpture.

Andrey Mountyan, an artist of next generation, had the same reactions against soviet antiaesthetics reality as these other artists, but he expressed it in another way. When he paints his canvases or draws his graphic works, he uses the achievements of traditional European style art. But when he creates icons he expresses shapes of spirits with old byzantine techniques, so his work is a very rare example of a synthesis of both eastern and western style art.

Where can you see these artists’ works?

Anatoly Zverev At Zverev’s Museum near the Metro Station Mayakovskaja. In Tretjakov Gallery on Krymsky Val in the only permanent exhibition of 20th century Russian art in the country.

Vadim Sidurs In The Vadim Sidurs Museum near Metro Station Perovo.

For future lectures organized by ‘Understanding Russian Culture’ see: http://uruc.weebly.com

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Feature

Simon Green

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Moscow’s Booming Psychology Industry

here’s no doubt about it, in today’s difficult economic times, more and more people are turning to a third party for assistance with their turbulent lives. If you had asked me to give you a description of a psychologist back in my youth, I would have suggested a middle-aged man with a shock of unkempt hair, not entirely dissimilar to The Wild Man of Borneo, who would typically start the meeting with: “you’re fine, how am I?” Needless to say, I was dragged off to meet such a person when I was sixteen as my mother declared me to be insolent, surly and uncooperative – adjectives befitting a typical teenager in the 1970’s.

Ten minutes later I was out on my ear, having engaged him in meaningful dialogue, resulting in him gruffly announcing to my parents “there’s nothing wrong with him!” My mother was mortified saying “how can you do this to us and why did you ask the man so many questions? He’s one of the top psychologists around.” I shot back at her: “well he asked me lots of questions, and besides there’s nothing wrong with me.” My mother looked crestfallen, unbelievable, really, as it turned out I was not fundamentally flawed as she suspected, and her vitriolic expedition had backfired horribly- I had survived my first and last visit to a ‘Shrink.’

Moving forward some forty years, and it finds me here in Moscow tracking down some modern psychologists to interview who were considerably easier on the eye in most cases than the one I had encountered.

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I first had the pleasure of meeting Olga Zotova at one of our PICnic group conversation club get togeth`ers, and she fired questions at me relentlessly at the rate of a Kalashnikov. Olga is an attractive lady in her mid thirties who had many years in advertising before embarking on the psychology mission.

Her clients comprise of 75% women and she operates under two main maxims: 1) “something hurts in my life”, and: 2) “everything is ok but I want something more.”

The former state often leads to depression with suicidal ramifications, and Olga has adopted a British protégé, John Henden, who is an acknowledged expert in his field with books to his credit: “Preventing SuicideThe Solution Focused Approach,” where he explains that “most clients respond well to the statement that suicidal feelings are normal and experienced by normal people in response to abnormal situations.”

However difficult the client’s situation is, Olga tries to apply a position (stance, maxim) taken from narrative practice: “the person is not the problem, the problem is the problem.

Russia has the highest underage suicide rate in Europe, especially with ‘NEETS’ – young people not in employment or education. School psychologist Ekaterina Zherdeva says that conflicts with parents and school friends contribute significantly, but only 10% actually want to escape life: “Teenagers think that they will die, everyone will come to their funeral and mourn, regret, and realize how

good they were and how they were under-appreciated. Then they will have a movie made about them and suddenly life becomes beautiful and amazing- unfortunately teenagers don’t understand death very well.”

I myself encountered suicide at close quarters when my best friend had been enjoying Christmas Eve drinks with us in 1988, bid us a cheerful farewell, and went home to his wife where relations were at a low ebb. Two hours later he rang me up and talked me through his death as he had secured the exhaust pipe of his car into the car and so gassed himself to death. I tore around every conceivable place to locate him, had phoned the police too, but at 07.00 the next morning a knock at the door confirmed our worst fears. The question still remains today- why?

I saw no outward signs that would propagate this ghastly final act, and hope that nowadays people would feel able to talk to a trained professional about such issues.

Olga has a very pleasant disposition and it is easy to see why people open up to her. She also possesses a natural ability to ask questions in a manner, which coerces people into conversation with her.

Many of the issues she discusses revolve around relationship problems which is why men prefer not to seek counselling and many women are reticent due to lack of knowledge among many Russians as well as it being perceived as weak or lazy by one’s own peers who could give you advice for nothing!

Feature

Vadim Petrovskiy and Marina Borodenko

Meet husband and wife team, Vadim Petrovskiy and Marina Borodenko. Vadim is in his midsixties, still practicing avidly, and is generally considered to be the doyen of the psychology industry here.

He has an avuncular appearance and kindly manner, and has some thirty years experience in this field.

Originally he was a mathematician and his father was a famous psychologist who encouraged Vadim into the same field by nature of his prolific reading, and the fact that maths and psychology were intricately interwoven due to the complexities of both subjects.

By 1985 he was lecturing at university and was perpetually bombarded with questions from psychology students to which he had no answer. Looking to fuel his desire for further knowledge in this industry, he stumbled upon a hitherto impossible book to procure in Russia: Eric Berne’s ‘Transactional Analysis.’The T.A theory encapsulates the foundational pillars of adult, child and parent with respective communications and sequential life patterns. He also familiarized himself with existential analysis and logotherapy, enabling a person to live their life with inner consent.

Once equipped with these theories, it provided the perfect platform with which to enter the profession.

Vadim built his client base via cafe meetings and 66% of his clients are women. “They entered my premises as naive young girls but exited as mature women” – many of them got married soon after his consultations.

Most of the problems he hears about are work related, infidelity, relationships with children, depression, sexual inadequacy and panic attacks;

Olga Zotova

Vadim finds it easy to detach himself emotionally.

Marina has been in the business for 29 years since 1987, and at that time only 150-175 people in the whole of Russia graduated in psychology. She was a professional rhythmic gymnast until aged sixteen when her parents’ painful divorce put paid to further career development. After graduating she had 12 clients a day, mainly alcoholics, so there was no shortage of work in those days she said.

Nowadays she restricts herself to four consultations a day, with 75% being women and 25% being men aged 2535 with love addictions that go south.

Although Marina has been a supervisor for 15 years, she still maintains a mentor just in case she needs a second opinion.

My final interview was with Elena Stankovskaya, another very attractive lady who combines effervescence and a demure manner with consummate ease. Her skills lie in a technique that combines gentle prodding and probing to put clients at ease and open up. She abides by the tried and trusted old school method, promoted by her mentor, the aforementioned Vadim, and relates to that oft-quoted line of Ophelia’s in Hamlet: “We know what we are, but not what we may be.”

Elena possesses a highly infectious giggle which alas doesn’t come into play as much as she would like in her line of work. Her mother is a doctor, but daughter opted for mental in lieu of physical repair, and has been enjoying success via referrals for the last nine years, largely due to her relaxed ‘bedside manner’ with clients.

She combines work with her university – the higher school of economics – and her clients are 90% women. Issues such

Elena Stankovskaya

as lack of self-esteem and relationship problems, which rear their ugly head even with their mothers, and work problems all form part of life’s rich tapestry presented to her.

I ask about any unusual and tricky confrontations and was told about a lady with low esteem and anger issues, almost to the point of being self-pugilistic, who suddenly unleashed a volley of vituperative invective in her direction before barging out of the door. She returned next week in cheerful mode as if nothing had happened. Another lady had had a life-changing experience behind the wheel resulting in a severe loss of confidence and needed careful navigation back to previous confidence levels. I then ask if she’s put me into any particular category: “Oh you’re completely f.u.b.a.r,” she says laughingly ( a slang term I rather regretted introducing her to a few months previously); “tell me something I don’t know,” I retort!

Sense of humour has to be well-judged and appropriate, and interestingly none of the people interviewed had it prioritised. As Lena said, many people are talking to her due to relationship problems going sour, with accompanying bitter recriminations. A famous U.S humourist once remarked: “Instead of getting married again, I’m just going to find a woman I don’t like and give her a house!” Personally I’ve found that humour often gets you through the darker periods of life as was echoed by another entertainer: “Through humour, you can often soften the blow that life delivers; and once you find laughter, no matter how painful your situation might be, you can survive it.”

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Feature

Soviet Rock –

A Story of Contrasting Worlds Yury’s first group: ‘Bega’

By David Morley

I

have been interested in rock music since I first heard the Beatles on an illicit transistor radio singing ‘Please, please me’ in 1964 In the changing rooms at public school. My friend and I decided immediately to form a beat group, although neither of us could play the guitar, or even had one. Tim played the cello and I had abandoned the piano. That was the sum total of our musical ability.

We approached Mike who was the drum major in the cadets and had a set of drums at home. He agreed to join. I harangued my Dad to buy me an electric guitar for Christmas, a Swedish Hagstrom with lots of buttons and knobs, bought from a shady character in the pub for fourteen pounds. I spent the rest of the holidays learning chords from Bert Weedon’s book ‘Play in a day.’

By the time of our first rehearsal I could manage four chords and a fledgling attempt at barre chords. In the meantime Tim had hand-crafted his own guitar. It was a weird affair with an enormous fretboard which sounded more like an electric organ than a rhythm guitar. Mike was very accomplished on his premier drums but was as patient as a saint with us, although somewhat bored.

Tim’s father was a vicar in a small village outside Doncaster. He allowed us to use the church hall to practice and we could plug in to the available PA system, which consisted of four speakers powerful enough to summon God and a valve amp

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weighing half a ton. It had four inputs so we could connect the guitars and two mikes. It made a helluva noise, and so did we.

We were discussing recruiting a bass player when we were approached by flash Rob. None of us liked Rob but he just turned up one day with a brand new Hofner bass, like Paul McCartney’s, and a massive Marshall amp. The problem was, he could hardly play a note or keep time.

But Rob’s dad had a camping shop in Sheffield and drove a Bentley. We had a serious decision to make.

So Rob joined the group. Tim and I meticulously taught Rob his bass parts, note by note, and he learnt to keep time by concentrating on Mike’s thumping bass drum. But he had a good voice which was useful for the harmony bits. As long as he did not get too flashy, or wear his sunglasses on stage, we got on quite well.

Our toleration of him paid off as, during our first summer holiday together, his father arrived with two Vox guitar amps and a pair of microphones. Later on, he donated a second-hand Bedford van so we could transport our gear to gigs. He also gave us a reverb machine, one of those with the tape looping round and round, which was very useful for my solos. Tim’s father wangled a new PA system for the church and we inherited God’s old one, a present from the Church of England.

We stuck together until 1968, first playing at school dances, youth clubs and private parties. In the last couple of years during school holidays, we made it into the club scene of South Yorkshire, earning a hundred pounds a night. The highlights of our career was an invitation to appear on the TV show ‘Opportunity Knocks’, but we got so drunk on the way to the studio that we completely messed up the

Feature

Yury ‘George’ Stikhanov today

audition. Our last appearance was at an open-air festival in Sherwood Forest where we came on as the warm-up band for ‘10 Years After’.

They went on to Woodstock and we went into oblivion. Tim and I went to University; Mike joined a dance band on a cruise ship in the Caribbean; Rob went to run his Dad’s camping shop.

Fast track to Moscow almost 50 years later. A couple of years ago I befriended Yury ‘George’ Stikhanov, who owns a tiny guitar shop in our local shopping centre in Novye Cheremushky. Unlike my own short experience as a rock guitarist, George showed more tenacity and developed his skills far beyond the level I ever attained, and with much greater difficulties. I was intrigued to learn his story and compare his experience as a budding rock star in the Soviet Union with my own.

I asked George how he managed to get into the business when access to equipment and music material was so restricted and controlled by the Soviet Authorities.

“I grew up in a provincial town in the Tula region, still called Sovietsk today. I was coming back from fishing one day when I heard an amazing sound. I couldn’t make out what

instrument it could be. I had never seen or heard an electric guitar before. There was a group playing instrumental music on the porch of the House of Culture. After that, neither the fishing rod nor the football existed for me any more. I started to make my own electric guitar because you could not get hold of one anywhere. I didn’t get very far with it as I only had a picture to work from.

But that’s how it all started.”

‘There was an old 7-string guitar at my grandmother’s but no-one knew how to tune it, let alone play it. So I thought up a tuning of my own and worked out by ear a few chords that seemed to work. You have to remember that guitars were forbidden at that time although there were a few places you could buy a Soviet acoustic wreck. But playing

them was very much frowned upon by the authorities. It’s like in 1975 they officially released a record album by the famous poet and composer, Vladimir Vysotsky. You could buy the record at the Melodia store but they banned anyone from playing it. If they heard you playing it, they would come round, turn it off and take your record away. That’s the paradox of the situation at that time. It was the same with the guitar.”

“There was a major in the army we knew in our town. He had tons of money and he brought a Czech guitar to town, which he bought on the black market in Moscow. He asked me if I wanted to have a go on it and, as I could do a lot better on it than him, he asked me if I wanted to buy it. I pestered my folks for 230 roubles, more than two month’s salary in those days, and I bought it.”

‘Some guys playing in a group in Sovietsk got called up to the army so I was roped in. But then there was an order issued by the Ministry of Culture banning people from playing the electric guitar with drums. You were only allowed to play the electric guitar with wind instruments. But we used to wait till all the wind section had gone home and carried on practicing

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Feature The ‘August’ group in 1990

‘Magnetic Band,’ 1989-90

‘Forum’ group in Leningrad, 1983

Beatles, Creedance Clearwater, Deep Purple, Led Zeppelin.”

‘For equipment, we had Soviet amps. You couldn’t buy them as such but they were used in schools, Houses of Culture, cinemas etc. so they were easy to get hold of. We made the speakers ourselves. You could get the cabinets made at a furniture factory if you gave them your designs. You could only get the speaker units from the ‘fartsovschiki’ (black marketeers) in Moscow. They were always being watched by the OBKhSS (Department Against Misappropriation of Socialist Property), working mostly under cover, who regularly rounded them up. And us as well if ever we got caught. So you had to run like hell if you thought the fuzz was around.”

“We had lots of problems with the Authorities. We weren’t allowed to play anything Western or with foreign lyrics. If we did, they’d come and say: ‘Play Soviet music only!’ The worst problems came from the local criminal gangsters. They’d come into the restaurant, put their guns on the table quite openly and say: ‘While we are sitting here drinking cognac, we don’t want your Led Zeppelin or any Vysotsky. You can play only the theme from the Godfather!’ So we had to play Godfather for three hours non-stop until my fingers hurt. But it gave me

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a chance to improvise a bit to keep it interesting. And they actually liked it.

So, when they got up to leave, they always left us 25 rubles or even 50 rubles sometimes.”

In 1979, George moved with his band to Leningrad and got a degree in music at the University, playing in the hotels and restaurants to stay afloat.

“We tried with our repertoire to get work in places like the Evropeisky Hotel. There was also the Astoria and the Sadko cafe on Nevsky Prospekt. But, with our Pink Floyd and Deep Purple numbers, we weren’t exactly acceptable.

They needed a group but the manager wanted us to play Soviet style stuff and ‘blatnyak’ (songs from the prison camps popular with criminal gangs), pop songs like ‘У кошки четыре ноги’ (the cat has four legs) and ‘Murka’. We had to learn all the Soviet dance music of the time but we didn’t like it. Things like ‘Kalinkamalinka’, and ‘Tsyganochka’. So that people could get drunk and dance.”

Because he had a music degree, George got a job with ‘Lenconcert’ and was appointed accompanist for Lyudmila Senchina, a popular singer at the time.

“Brezhnev was still alive then and a law was passed banning anyone from forming a band. All the groups that were around were broken up and forbidden from playing. You were only

allowed to play the electric guitar with a chamber or symphony orchestra.

But during the transition period after Brezhnev’s death, 1983/84, you were allowed to put a band together again.”

So George joined a band called ‘Forward’ as guitarist. ‘They were a modern band in the style of ‘Police’.

But, for me, it was too popsy. I was more into heavy rock, so after about a year I left them. I joined a well-known Estonian singer, Gunnar Graps, with his group ‘Magnetic Band’. So from about 1985 I played pure hard rock with them, even performing in the USA.” If you are interested in the whole of George’s story, how the black market worked in Soviet times, how one man was sent to prison for making copies of a Marshall amplifier in his garage, how it was possible to escape the eye of the security services to make a living as a rock musician and get permission to travel abroad in the profession, then you can read the whole interview with him, published on the website at www. moscowexpatlife.ru. You will then understand how much more difficult it was for him than for me to emerge as an accomplished guitarist, able to emulate the legends of the great Western rock stars.

David Morley February 2016

Community

THE FRIDAY RECIPE RICH SHCHI INGREDIENTS: 500 gr. Beef 500 gr. Sauerkraut 4-5 Dried Mushrooms 1 Large Carrot 1 Large Potato 2 Onions Mixed fresh herbs (celery/ parsley/fennel etc) 3 Bayleaves 4-5 Garlic cloves 1 tsp. Butter 1 tsp. Cream 100 gr. Sour Cream Salt and pepper

METHOD:

Place the beef, one of the onions and half the herbs in a pot of cold water and bring to the boil, turn down and simmer for 1 hour.

Filter the broth through a fine seive or muslin and remove the herbs.

Put the sauercraut in a pot (clay is best) add half litre of boiling water and the butter, place in a preheated oven.

Once the cabbage is soft remove from the pot and mix with the beef and filtered broth.

Cut the potato into 4 and place in another cooking pot with the

mushrooms, cover with water and bring to the boil, remove the mushrooms, cut them into strips then put back into the mushroom pot, when the potatoes and mushrooms are cooked add them to the beef broth.

Chop the remaining onion finely, chop the carrot and chop the remaining herbs, celery and fennel and add to the beef broth, sprinkle with salt and cook for 20 minutes more. Serve in bowls with Sour cream and chopped pickled mushrooms.

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TERNATI IN

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OF MOSC OL

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The International School of Moscow

WHERE WILL YOU GO? No other question offers Seco Secondary students so much food for thought.

Choosing a University is a massive decision, one that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

The International School of Moscow encourages students to take their university choices very seriously and supports each student every step of the way.

After all, today’s students are Future Leaders and the breadth of their world-view will be invaluable as they take up these positions of leadership across the globe.

Being a young Global Citizen makes this decision somewhat more complicated.

Here at the International School of Moscow, however, we take great pride in being able to prepare our students for entry into universities all over the world.

In 2016, International School of Moscow graduates are applying to universities in the United Kingdom, Macedonia, Spain, France, United States and Malaysia.

World Class Education

Canadian Section Interview with Lou Naumovski, Vice President and General Director of Kinross Gold Corporation’s Moscow Office and Chairman of the National Board of Directors, Canada-Eurasia-Russia Business Association (CERBA) (with CERBA’s help) to better understand the effects of sanctions and to remain compliant with regulations.

Trade continues nonetheless in areas such as business aviation, and companies that have extensive investments in Russia, such as Kinross which I represent, are committed to staying the course and have been (just like Russian companies) able to benefit from the depreciation in the value of the rouble. Our Association has been active with representatives of the Canadian and Russian governments, with the Russian Union of Entrepreneurs and Industrialists and other business groups in expressing our opposition to sanctions. We remain united in our hope that the political situation can improve to the point where we can once again talk about expanding trade and investment.

A delegation from the Russian Sub-soil Agency Rosnedra visits the Toronto Stock Exchange in March of 2013. Lou Naumovski of CERBA is second from left, with Metalloinvest General Director Andrey Varichev to Lou’s left. Current Deputy Minister of Natural Resources and General Director of Rosnedra Evgeny Kisselev is to the left of Mr. Varichev

What does CERBA do?

Founded more than 10 years ago, CERBA is the premier Canada-based business association in Russia, bringing together about 140 company members from Canada, Russia, Kazakhstan and other Eurasian countries engaged or interested in trade and investment between Canada and Eurasian countries of the former USSR. With offices in Toronto, Ottawa / Montreal, Calgary, Vancouver, Moscow and Almaty, Kazakhstan, the Association provides business information and support services to its membership and organizes conferences, seminars, events and business missions designed to develop networking opportunities and generate business leads for its membership.

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Kinross Gold Corporation President and CEO Paul Rollinson cuts the cake at Kinross’ 20th Anniversary in Russia celebration in Moscow on 20 October 2015

How are CERBA members handling the current geopolitical situation?

Certain sector sanctions (oil and gas equipment, for example), and Russian food sanctions (pork meat from Canada) have certainly caused two-way trade to decrease significantly since 2014.

However, Canadian companies are educating themselves

How many Canadians are there in Russia?

Like with many expatriate communities, the number of Canadians in Russia has diminished in the past few years. I am not sure of the exact number, but there are no more than several hundred business people, academics/ teachers and their families resident in Russia. However, if you were to include those Russians who have at some point lived in Canada and obtained permanent resident status or citizenship and who now reside in Russia, the number could be over several thousand individuals.

Canadian Section What are the main social and is an ancient country, culture cultural differences between and society, while Canada is Russians and Canadians? relatively young (we will be I think that one would have to answer this question with what are the similarities between the two peoples, before discussing the differences. First and foremost, our climates and geographies are very similar (Canada is the second largest country after Russia), which has fostered similar attitudes towards dealing with natural adversity and engendered a love of the great outdoors. For example, both countries are blessed with abundant natural resources and both peoples have had to conquer vast areas of unexplored territories where mining and forestry have become the cornerstones of economic activity.

As the two greatest Arctic countries, Canada and Russia have a lot in common related to the responsible development of the Arctic and the common obligation to respect the rights of the indigenous peoples of both countries, which have close ethnic and even genetic links.

On a lighter note, Canadians have their ‘cottages’ and Russians have their ‘dachas,’ and are perhaps the strongest international adherents to this type of relaxation and way of bringing families together.

Canada has also been blessed with a large contingent of immigrants from the former Soviet Union and other Slavic countries. As a consequence, Canadians of other ethnic backgrounds are familiar with Slavic languages and the Orthodox Church. The ethnic cuisine brought to Canada from Ukraine is enjoyed right across Canada.

As concerns cultural and social differences, I think the key divergence is that Russia

celebrating our 150th birthday in 2017). Canada’s relative youth and history as a British colony has made it relatively much easier to build a society ‘from the ground up’. What I mean by this is that the initial settlers (both British and French) brought with them traditions of social organization, representative government and civil and common law that was introduced even before Canada became officially sovereign!

Canadian government, public administration and society

The then Russian Deputy Minister (now Minister) of Natural Resources and Environment Sergei Donskoy addresses CERBA’s Annual Mining Conference on 9 March 2011 in Toronto

is quite well organized and structured. The rule of law is firmly entrenched and (mostly) beyond reproach. This history has certainly infused all aspects of life in Canada; social order, education, governance, business, etc.

One often reads or hears that ‘Russia suffers from too much history.’ What makes the society so fascinating for people like me (I first came to Russia in 1982 and have spent most of my career working in or on Russia) is also what makes it extremely difficult to govern, to reform and to organize. Not to say that Russia does not

demonstrate some of the best aspects of a modern European society, but I have observed the shock and consternation on the faces of many western friends and acquaintances when they encounter some behaviours in business (or even on the roads and highways of Russia) that are anathema to societies such as Canada or even the UK. As a Slav myself, I had been prepared quite well by observing the behaviour of my parents and relatives growing up in Canada.

How does this filter through into business practices?

In business over my 33 plus years in Russia, I think it is fair to say that I have observed huge progress in the development of basic business knowledge and management skills. My direct experience has been very positive in recruiting, training and mentoring young Russian specialists. While I was at Visa, we had absolutely the best team anywhere in the Visa emerging markets – and they were all Russian except for me!

The biggest mistake that I have seen amongst western business people is their willingness to accept at face value what they hear (or think they hear) from their Russian interlocutors. This does not mean that Russian business people deliberately mislead their western partners.

Rather, it means that western (and Canadian) business people do not invest enough time and personal capital to get to know their partners well enough and to the point that there is a complete understanding between them.

As a consequence too many business deals and transactions falter too quickly. Still, those who do take the time and make the effort can be richly rewarded in this fascinating, frustrating and wonderful country!

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Canadian Section Nathan Hunt

Director of Rep Office, Ronald A. Chisholm Ltd. President of CERBA

How did you come to be living Russia?

I graduated in Russian studies in 1988, and came here in 1992 with a small consulting outfit based in the Midwest of the United States. The owners of that company and I went our separate ways after a year and I ended up working with a meat industry association. They were interested in opening the Russian market to U.S. and Western meat imports. After two years in that position I realised I would be better off in the private sector and in 1993 I became the exclusive agent of a Canadian company, one of the major players in the worldwide meat trade. This was the beginning of my long-standing connection with Canada, a country I have grown to know and love over two decades.

You became the President of CERBA In 2004 I oversaw a merger of our CanadaRussia business club in Moscow with similar business clubs in Canada (Calgary, Toronto and Montreal). Each separate office had its strengths, such as oil/gas in Calgary, IT and mining in Toronto, and aerospace/food industry in Montreal. We decided to merge, since there was no sense in opening up separate ‘Moscow offices’ and fighting for each other’s members and dues. Over these 10 years we have developed into the chief voice of Canadian business in Russia, promoting commercial relations and commenting on the

political situation when appropriate. I was National Chair of the merged organisation for 4 years, from 2009 to 2013. Now I remain Chair of the Moscow chapter, a post I have held since 2001. We have recently begun to do business as the ‘Canada Eurasia Business Association’ in some locales since we work in countries besides Russia, including Kazakhstan, Armenia, Uzbekistan and are planning an expansion into Ukraine this spring. It is not a simple feat to balance the interests of our many stakeholders, but we are succeeding so far.

What is CERBA trying to do?

Our mission is to promote trade, investment and good relations between Canada and the countries of Eurasia. We encourage trade and investment both ways, i.e., from Canada to Eurasia and vice versa. Our ‘good relations’ mandate is important –- we organise cultural events such as an annual charity auction which raises around $200,000 each year. Interestingly we have maintained that level even after the rouble’s recent devaluation.

Have you suffered a membership loss due to the current situation?

Surprisingly it hasn’t been so bad. Some members have left, but others continue to join, including companies that are either new to the market or have been here but have not been part of the association, and now find membership more compelling in the current political environment. We have started to carry out a quasi-governmental role, filling in for the Canadian Foreign Service, which is not allowed to support new business ventures here due to the political situation.

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Canadian Section The question is how best to support Ukraine – by ignoring and isolating Russia? Or by trying to find a solution?

We support the latter approach.

Is there hope for Canadian businesses here in Russia?

That’s all we have – hope. Unfortunately, there continue to be good signs and bad. The EU and USA have been hinting at an end to sanctions this summer and we hope the Canadian government will follow suit. Canada has always been a staunch supporter of independent Ukraine, especially because of the large and well-established Ukrainian community in Canada.

The question is how best to support Ukraine – by ignoring and isolating Russia? Or by trying to find a solution? We support the latter approach.

I believe both sides share blame for the current crisis.

Much of this could have been avoided if we in the West had moved carefully and cautiously, recognizing at the start that Russian concerns are no less valid than our own. Russia has made some terrible mistakes and misjudgements, but many of these were predicated by conflicting or hostile signals from Western leaders.

Are Canadian companies getting round the sanctions somehow?

Sanctions have hurt Canadian agricultural trade with Russia, which used to be one-third of our total exports.

We were also poised to make a major investment in the aircraft industry, which would have been the first foreign aircraft assembly facility in Russia. That was all supposed to happen in 2014, but the political situation deteriorated and business followed. The Canadian government’s application of sanctions has been more ambiguous than that of the US, which has clear guidelines issued by OFAC. Canadian companies have therefore been less successful in finding legal mechanisms to mitigate the effects of sanctions.

Everybody says that CERBA is the success it is because of you.

We have a board of thirteen people, all of whom are very active, even between meetings. The willingness of our board members to volunteer time and resources has made our organisation a success. I am proud that while Canada’s population is one tenth of the USA’s, our activity level is definitely more than one tenth of corresponding associations in other countries.

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Canadian Section

Kelly Allin, talking to a young hockey player

Moscow International Sunday Hockey Group

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E

arly on Sundays at 9.30, when most of us are appreciating a good lie-in, a group of lucky children are having a lot of fun honing their ice-hockey skills up in the impressive Megasport stadium near Dinamo. Kelly Allin, a partner at Deloitte & Touche Moscow who is one of the Canadian community’s founding members, and has been here for over 15 years leads, inspires and organises an ice hockey group for mainly, but not exclusively expat children. The ice-hockey group ‘keeps me going’ Kelly says, and it also, thanks to Kelly, serves the incredibly useful function of helping children learn ice hockey in Moscow through having fun.

John Harrison

Why did you start to organise this?

I got involved around eight years ago because I wanted my own children to have the opportunity to learn how to play ice hockey, but could not find an opportunity for my children to play, that fitted with our schedule. A couple of Canadian friends of mine had similar ideas, and we created this ‘group’.

Before that I used to play Broomball in Moscow, but always preferred hockey. I realized I needed to make a choice with my limited free time – broomball or hockey. By coaching hockey, there was the advantage of playing hockey and spending time with the kids.

I looked into some of the local hockey programs, but the times that Russian children skated, was during our school day, which didn’t work out for us. There is another aspect – the Russian ice hockey programme for children is three to five times a week and very intense,

Canadian Section If you would like to know more about this group, write to Kelly at: kjallin@email.com.

and this would have been hard for our children to manage. So we decided to start some lessons ourselves. We had 6 children to begin with, which meant that hiring a rink for 90 minutes was very expensive. This has got a lot easier now as we average about 20 to 25 children, which means that the year’s programme is still costly, but most people can handle it.

usually accompany their children and they can have a cup of coffee and socialise during the games. That’s the one part of being on the ice that I sacrifice, as I’d like to spend some time socializing with the parents, but being on the ice and training is the most fun.

We advertise through word of mouth. About one third of the people who come through my work contacts, and most of the others are children of friends of friends.

Do you organize competitions?

No, when we invite people our disclaimer – if you like – is that we create a non-competitive environment, in which children can develop their skill and love for the sport. Having said that, when the opportunity comes up for a friendly game, such as with the French school, which has a team, we will play a game, but the main thing is fun and learning skills.

What age group do you cater for?

Originally, I tried to bookmark it according to my kids, who at the time were in the 5-10 group, now there are more children in the 11-14 group, but we welcome children at any of these ages.

Are the children mainly expats or Russians?

They are both, and what is nice about this program is that there is the hockey but there is also the social side, as parents

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Canadian Section Neil Withers is President of the CFA Society (Chartered Financial Analyst Society) in Russia, and on the board of the Canadian Russian Business Association. He has had, and continues to have, a very interesting time in Russia.

Neil Withers

Neil, you have been here for 18 years, which is a considerable amount of time in anybody’s life. Did you plan to be here for that long?

I had no idea about coming to Russia up until two weeks before I arrived. At the time I was working for CIBC, which is one of the top five Canadian banks. The head of the Trade and Finance Department was looking for somebody who might run a project in Russia. The EBRD and the World Bank had picked some pretty good Russian banks, who wanted to understand and reach international standards of banking, as potential partners in ‘twinning’ projects. I was just finishing another project and had some varied experience in both commercial and investment banking, so I was selected.

Out of the 15 Russian banks who were interested in becoming our international partner, there were only three with which we really felt comfortable working with. One of them was ‘Vozrozhdenie.’ So

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in September of 1997 I had 18 people from that bank over to Canada for a week. I introduced them to CIBC, then in the middle of October 1997 I was over here. It was supposed to be a three-year project but, of course, in August of 1998 the whole financial system collapsed, and I said to my Russian colleague: “I understand that you don’t want us to be here anymore, we’ll pack up and go home.” He said: “It has all been very useful, but yes, it is probably best that you go home, however you personally are very interesting AND useful; could you stay?” I said: “well I don’t know, I have a real job back in Canada.”

So by December when the World Bank decided to suspend the project, Vozrozhdenie asked me if they could hire me. I said: “well, no, but if you are willing to pay CIBC what they pay me, I can probably convince my boss to let me stay here.” That worked for five months, and then eventually Vozrozhdenie did hire me, and I worked there until 2008. I would have stayed on longer, but VTB, the second biggest state owned bank, offered me a ridiculous amount of money, so I moved over to them. So I joined VTB as Senior Vice President of investor relations.

Were you married when you came out here?

I had been divorced for about 10 years and was living in Toronto. I had two children.

My son was already at McGill University in Montreal. My daughter was finishing High School, and she decided to go to McGill as well, so it was an easy time to move here. I just

got married last year here, and I have a new daughter!

Congratulations! How did you find working with Russians when you arrived in comparison to working with colleagues in Canada?

I found the Russians to be very confident and well trained.

Even back then?

Yes. This was a good bank, one of the reasons that we picked it was because their team had been together for a long time.

Nevertheless, the thing that struck me, as being one of the biggest issues was the amount of time it took to get the paperwork done.

Not the decisions, they were made quickly but the paperwork. Now it is better, and the systems work reasonably well, but there is still little appreciation of the value of people’s time.

That’s not to say that Canada is necessarily better.

My daughter who was born in Russia is Canadian, but it will take 8-10 months for her citizenship certificate to be processed by Ottawa. Her Russian ‘paperwork,’ including her international passport took about a month, but involved more visits to different offices.

What other problems were there at the beginning?

I think there was a lack of understanding at how you could actually ask for help. It was a surprise to my Russian colleagues

Canadian Section to discover that you can actually phone unknown people and ask them for advice; I have never had anybody turn me down.

Do you think you have come to understand the Russian mentality by working for such a long time here?

As a Canadian, I have an advantage because I grew up English in Montreal. So growing up there I had to realise that I was growing up in a culture that wasn’t necessarily mine. So by default I was more aware of cultural differences. People from smaller countries all over the world have a similar experience and outlook. But not so the Americans, (who I feel quite sorry for). They have never really had to come to terms with another culture in that way. So I think I am more aware of cultural differences and able to understand where people are coming from.

It was pretty easy in the mid-nineties to get money overnight, if you could do something – anything.

The expectation was that you should do something and then you’d get rich. It’s not that way now exactly, however Moscow is certainly a much pleasanter place to live in than it was back then.

Do you think there are more similarities between Canadians and Russians than there are dissimilarities?

I think there are more similarities: Canada, like Russia, is a ‘northern’ country: we understand snow! I think the world is in such a state that you have to give up too much to be isolated. The Russian government is certainly not ignorant of the demands of its people for a better life, but not in the same way as we are with a

parliament that is responsive and so on. I think the main difficulty is that a ‘new world order’ is appearing that is different to a world order subservient to American supremacy, which didn’t work any better than the one subservient to the British empire a century ago. So I think there will be an opening to the East and a reopening to the West.

It is hard to imagine why Russia is not considered more favourably than China when you look at human rights and corruption.

Russia simply doesn’t do capital punishment.

Neil, you are also President of the CFA. Tell us a bit about it please?

CFA represents the gold standard of financial professionalism in knowledge and ethics. It was started over 60 years ago in several cities in Canada and the US and in the last 20 years has spread around the world. We started a CFA Association in Russia 11 years ago and now have over 500 members. Last fall we awarded 82 new CFA charters to Russians here in Moscow. To become a CFA charter holder you take a six-hour exam once every year for three years, which requires about 350 hours of studying and reading to be able to pass.

The pass rate is about 40%.

In each of the three exams, 20% is on ethics, and there is a code of conduct which you have to agree to abide by, which basically says that you should put your clients first, don’t cheat, and let them know how you are being paid. We now have about 2,000 Russian students taking part in this three-year course. I took my CFA back in the 1970s. Globally about 120,000 people have qualified. It has become a professional designation, a lot more useful than a general MBA if you are going to be working

in finance. The advantage is that you don’t have to give up your job while you study. Career development is the major incentive for taking the CFA.

That says a lot for Russians.

I have great respect for people here doing the exam not in their native language: it is taken around the world only in English. But Russians succeed as well as anyone because, if they are committed to studying, they study well. Young people here want to do well and are prepared to make sacrifices to succeed.

Now we have a young generation which has already been working for ten years in a free market situation. This is bringing about a cultural change in a way that affects the way they see work and personal responsibility. This is really only just beginning, and it takes a long time, as it does anywhere.

Do you have any advice for people just arriving here?

Be flexible and appreciate the differences! But don’t move here in October because you are facing a winter without sun, which is long and tiring.

My daughter came here on her first trip in March of 1998, and stayed for a month. She didn’t like Russia at all. My son came first in May and loved it. He has been back almost every year.

The winter is actually pretty long and tiring, and you don’t realize how depressed one can get without sun. Now I try to get away at least once during the cold months to get some sun. My second piece of advice is: don’t leave learning Russian until your mid-50s. It doesn’t work. My Russian is still improving but it’s still far from perfect. I’ve only been learning it for 18 years! So there is still time.

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Canadian Section Joel Koczwarski is a Canadian professional photographer who has lived in Moscow for three years. During this time he has staged exhibitions and developed an impressive portfolio.

Joel Koczwarski, Photographer.

Moscow expat Life’s editor John Harrison caught up with him:

You are a real expat in that you have been travelling around with your parents all over the world since you were born. How does that make you feel about the world?

away? There could be a world-class exhibition of one thing or another going on, and without going out there to check, I would have no idea.

On the bad side, it can be overwhelming.

That’s a huge question. More than anything I’d say that the world is a very small place.

Once you are forced out of your comfort zones more than a couple of times you begin to feel confortable anywhere. I was very fortunate, I had great schooling, which is one of the few advantages of being an expat, and I have seen many continents. I have continued living in the way that my parents brought me up in. They were international schoolteachers who travelled the world all their working lives. They started in Korea, and we lived in Saudi, in Germany, in Kenya, and I left them there and went to university in Canada. They continued to travel to South Africa, to Mali, to Abu Dhabi, and then to Canada. Their parents were through and through Canadians who lived in Vancouver all their lives.

I grew up to see many friends live in a bubble and watch the world go by as if it were a television programme, something to casually observe while they wait to go back to real life, which was wherever home may be. And I think that is such a waste because there is so much to learn and experience out there. I was fortunate because my class in Kenya was dominated by ‘locals’. My class was a majority of permanent ‘foreign born localized humans’, rather than temporary ‘expats’, so I got to see a lot of Kenya that other expats didn’t behind the doors of their SUVs.

As a photographer, what do you like about Moscow?

What are the good and bad things about Moscow?

I love the vastness of this city and that things are happening everyday, all the time. I love the fact that I can’t wrap my brain around what is going on out there. I have lived in a lot of smaller cities; in Barcelona, in Ottawa in Canada, and after a year or two you kind of understand, you get to know what is happening in the bars, the nightlife, in the arts scene. But in Moscow; that is impossible. Who knows what is happening a block

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I love a lot of things about Moscow from an artistic perspective. There is such a rich cultural history that is just waiting to be explored through photography. I try to focus on exploring how Muscovites see their own history, how Russians understand Westerners, and I try to explore the intersections between historical, cultural, political and social life. I try to capture them in a way that might capture somebody’s imagination.

The metro, which is an incredibly beautiful system of underground palaces, is an example. What struck me is that there are millions and millions of people who travel on it everyday and they don’t even look up. A lot of what hangs over people as they go to work are symbols of a regime bygone. I started to wonder to what effect does the architecture around us affect our lives? And to what extent is architecture a reflection of us? So with my series on the Moscow underground, I wanted to explore the idea that the Soviet symbols have stood the test of time, what other aspects of society might still remain from that time?

How do you locate these intersections?

I suppose through exploring the city, and through studying the history of Moscow and the Soviet Union. Sometimes it is a simple as seeing something strange happen on the street. Another one of my recent series is also based in the metro: ‘Moscow Escalators are for Lovers.’ As you may well know, young lovers in Moscow love to make out on escalators. This may not be unique for Moscow, but I certainly haven’t seen this as much as in other parts of the world. As the world’s media has turned against Russia and started to focus on

Canadian Section

the negative aspects of Russian society, as many as there may be, this series was intended to show that it is not just doom and gloom here. It’s not the evil empire, there are people here who are in love and they don’t care about anything else.

Would you say that Russians are more interested in being in the here and now than people are in many other countries?

For many reasons I think that may be true.

I know from anecdotal evidence, that young Russians don’t save as much, relative to say young Brits or Americans. I have Russian friends who blow their pay checks every two weeks, and have no qualms about that. It wasn’t so long ago here that people’s life savings were completely destroyed, and you can see how that would influence one’s mentality if you don’t trust the institutions that are there to help you plan for the future.

Do you think Art can help people rise above their own particular cultural short-sightedness?

Yes, I think that is a goal for any artist. To open viewers’ minds to ideas that they hadn’t previously thought of, to bring new perspectives to the table, to point out issues that they might not previously have discussed, to explore issues in society that people might not readily talk about.

What inspires you most?

Interaction between people; my art mostly focuses on society, on culture, and how it changes in a world where everything is becoming more localized and globalised.

So the world is becoming more localized and globalized at the same time?

Social networking these days is so incredibly engaging and powerful that we can be connected to anybody around the world at any moment, and feel more connected than we do with the

person sitting two booths behind us. And in that sense you are in a local community that you can build regardless of geography. I have been on 5 or 6 international trips in the past year and I have a favourite spot to go to in every town that I have been to, so I have my ‘local’ in Montreal and in London, whilst I live in Moscow. The world at the same time has become more globalised in the sense that businesses can connect to people all around the world, through this modern marvel of communication and international trade.

Anything you would like to say to people who are moving here?

I would say that Moscow is a fantastic city, it’s worth exploring every day, and you’ll have good days and bad days. I was talking to my parents a few weeks ago, and they were telling me about their experience of moving to a big city in a foreign country several times in their lives. They told me that after about three months in a new country, they regretted moving because of the stress and work involved in adapting to a new environment. This happened every time they moved. But they said that once they stuck it out to about 6 months, that things started to normalize, stress levels would come down, and they would start to see the fruits of their labour, their lives would sort themselves out somehow. And then they were happy to be where they were. They found that friends of theirs experienced the exact same time frame as they moved around the world. So I would say to expats coming here to Moscow that it is going to be tough for the first while, but it’s a great place to be and you’ll soon realise that, I hope.

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Canadian Section John Schreiner

Vice President, Theatre Development. Russia, CIS, Middle East, and India, IMAX Corporation.

What, in your experience, are the good and bad parts of living in Moscow on a personal level?

How long have you been in Russia, what brought you here?

I first started coming to Russia in 2002 as IMAX was entering the market at that time and our first theatre opened in 2003. Due to the success of that theatre and many others that we opened, our business here grew to be the third largest market for us globally and by 2011 we needed a team on the ground to manage our continuing operations here.

Hence I relocated here with my family in October 2011.

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Moscow has changed a lot in the four years since I have lived here and in many ways for the better. From my perspective there is lots for the kids to do and the city has spent a lot on what I would call ‘social infrastructure’ – better parks, activities and the like. This provides many options to get out of the house and the mall with the family year round if one is interested. There are also lots of live music and concerts to attend from well known acts such as Elton John as well as a never ending supply of world class classical music if one is interested in that.

I think two of the biggest frustrations about living in Russia would be the current outflow of expatriates in the country which has seen many friends relocate elsewhere and the difficulty of learning

the language – I speak fluent Mandarin Chinese and the complexity of Russian still gets me! I have made some strides over the years, it is tough to learn a language and have a family life with three young children (who thankfully are bi-lingual in English and Russian!).

How do you find doing business in Russia?

This is a bit of a challenging question to answer right now as it is a tough business environment overall right now, but I do really enjoy working with my clients here and have a very good rapport with them. Over the past decade, our business grew dramatically and we had very strong results in the market. For the most part since the devaluation of the Ruble, I have been able to work together with them on a plan for the future cooperation taking into account the current economic conditions. I think Russian business people are very pragmatic and we all worked together to make the best of a very challenging business landscape.

Report from the Regions

TULA REGION Geography Borders on: Moscow, Ryazan, Lipetsk, Oryol and Kaluga regions City of Tula – 193 Km South of Moscow Other conurbations: Novomoskovsk, DSchokino, Uzlovaya, Donskaya, Aleksin, Efremov, Venyev Major rivers – Don, Oka, Upa

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f the Kaluga region has during recent years gained a name for itself as the region of Russia with the most attractive conditions for investment and industrial development, then in my view the Tula region is next in line. In many ways the area has more to offer.

During the tenure of the former Governor, much work has been accomplished; first and foremost in up-grading the aged infrastructure and creating the framework necessary for further development to take place. The hidden advantage in key areas having been neglected for so long (e.g. agriculture) is that vast stretches of potentially good farmland lie ready and waiting for new ventures to come along and make a fresh start.

In the manufacturing sector, the Tula region has a long tradition, stretching back to prerevolutionary times, of industrial activity in food processing,

Facts & Figures

Formed as Tula Gubernia by Ekaterina II in 1777 Area – 25,700 km2 (more than twice the size of Yorkshire) Population – 1.56 million Capital City Tula – population 507,000 Governor – Alexey Dyumin (43) firearms, heavy machinery, chemicals and metallurgy, transport engineering etc., and is renowned still for its famous samovars. Consequently, it is not difficult to find the level of technical expertise amongst a well-educated workforce necessary for the implementation of the most complex types of processes.

There are also a number of industrial parks, either already operating or under construction, to provide facilities and services for new investment coming into the area. One of the most prominent of these is the Tula Industrial Park. The instigator and CEO is Ilya Tolstoy, also General Manager of the family estate in Yasnaya Polyana, home of the novelist Leo Tolstoy. The TI-Park project is a joint venture with the Tula Development Corporation as a public-private partnership for the implementation of investment projects in “all spheres of life”.

The priorities of the organisation

are the safe support of business development, technology clusters and industrial zones in the Tula region.

Other organisations have been established with the support of the regional government to promote and foster the investment climate, providing initiatives, support and coordination for attracting inward investment to the region.

The most active and influential of these is the Tula branch of the Eurasian Business Union, Delovoye Soyuz Evroasia, established and managed at federal level by Pavel Borodin, the former head of the presidential administration. Our company, ADC Realty Ltd., is one of the founder members and the general director, Alexander Zakharov, sits on the board. We will also chair the committee for foreign investment and thereby play our part in the future development of the region.

MGFC

The MGFC Awards

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MGFC

MGFC members’ reviews and comments published in this magazine have helped hundreds of expats ascertain the quality of some of Moscow’s best and most interesting restaurants. Since starting the Moscow Good Food Club in 2014, we have now reviewed 11 restaurants. The time has now come to celebrate the achievements of the best of these establishments and offer them further recognition. Join us and vote for the top restaurant that we have reviewed since starting the MGFC. Help to promote the culture of good cuisine and excellence in Moscow restaurants.

Please fill in the review on: www.MoscowexpatLife.ru/mgfc-survey-2016

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Feature

David Maltby

Applying for Temporary (And Then Full) Residency…

one Ex-Pat’s experience

We’ve all been through the visa hoops and obstacles over the years. If you’re reading this in Russia then chances are these challenges are recent and real.

One alternative to the visa regime is to consider the Temporary Residency in Russian known as ‘Pазрешения На Bременное Проживание’ and then full Residency ‘Бид На Жительство’ application process. I’ve done this twice now and I have say it’s much easier now, than what it used to be. The attitude has also changed – at least in my local region УФМС (Federal Migration Service) office. Gone are the forbidding and slightly scary Soviet battle-axes with the ‘They shall not pass’ mind-set. There are now some very capable people doing what appears to be a thankless and very labour intensive task.

It’s not all good news. You have to put in some effort, get up early and queue, be patient and answer the bureaucracy with immaculately prepared documentation. You may also have to make repeat visits. However once the treasured stamp is yours, you then get a free visa for 3 years, coming and going as you please.

So how do you go about getting РвП? Well, here’s my story, but first some caveats: • I’m no expert on this, I’m just relaying my own experience.

• I know from talking to others that their experience does vary a little from mine.

• Each Migration Service office has its own little foibles… this is not a consistent process at all.

• Best to have native speaker support if you can get it. Mine came in the form of my good wife, without whose help I would have been still queuing now.

This isn’t a specialist view, it’s a simplified one. If you want the full story, take a look at the FMS web site, listed below.

The first thing to check, before organising your paperwork, is do you qualify? I’m writing this for the benefit of European expats and not for former Soviet Union citizens – they have different rules.

You can qualify by ticking one or more of the following boxes; • Being married to a Russian national.

• Being a parent or a child of a Russian national.

• Being here on a highly qualified specialist visa or the spouse of a specialist.

• Being an inward investor.

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There are others, but these are the main ones. One of the first things to check is the ФМС web site. The requirements change from time to time so this is the best source. At this time of writing this it is necessary to provide the following documents. I’m adding some additional info here as there are some tricks to know.

A current passport with more than six months to run.

In fact if you have less than a year to go then it’s probably better to renew it, as there’s a long time for this process to run, and when you get a new passport, you must have a new registration stamp, residency permit and visa put into the new one.

You will also need 3 notarised copies of your passport with a translation. At this point it’s probably worth mentioning that only Russian language documentation is accepted so all foreign language documents have to be translated and notarized. You’ll also need a 35 x 45mm photo, with the usual quality rules that all Embassies now insist on.

Your contract of employment.

It can be a dual language contract. If you aren’t employed you can take an ‘Individual Entrepreneur’ tax status document. This really means Freelance and you can qualify for 6% income tax. However this is a different story and I may write about that in the future. My local office also required a normal photocopy. On the FMS web site the contract is not listed, but my local office did ask for it.

You can also provide proof of income such as investment income or a pension. All documentation needs to be translated into Russian and Notarised.

Your registration document.

If you own your one place, you will need your SVIDELSTVO document and a notarized copy of it. If you don’t own your own place, the bad news is that you’ll need your landlord with you. However if they’re a decent sort, that might be a help in pushing you up the queues. It’s not my own experience but I’ve heard that some offices will accept a letter from the landlord, but I imagine that’s not the norm.

You will also need your criminal record document from your home country. A word of warning for the Brits. There are 2 documents available, don’t get the wrong one! You need the full ‘ACPO’ document not the quick one which anyone can get. That also has to be apostilled. As a general note, an apostille is needed on foreign government-issued or foreign institution-issued documents.

Feature I found the best way to do this was get the ACPO record sent directly to a company called ‘Hague Apostille’s see their site www.hagueapostille.co.uk. You can do this on the Hague Apostille application form.

You can also arrange express service. This is important as you have a 3 month shelf life on all these documents.

Once you go over the time limit you start again. Hague Apostille will then send the documents to you via DHL. Note that, in Russia, DHL don’t deliver packages to home addresses but they will deliver a document.

You will then have to have the ACPO document and the apostille translated and notarised here in Moscow. As the lead time in getting this Criminal Record document sorted out is the longest, it’s better to get this document done sooner rather than later.

You will need a Spravka from your bank, although they are so used to knocking these out, there’s no hassles here.

The migration card you received at the passport control coming in is also necessary.

If you are married, you will need your marriage certificate. Mine’s Russian but you may have a foreign language one. Unfortunately for you, it will have to be apostilled, translated, notarized... you are beginning to get the picture. Same with kids birth certificates.

Qualifications.

It used to be the case that you had to provide your diploma or degree. These days it seems they’re not interested. I was told that for full residency, they don’t want it, but I’ve got it just in case.

However, they do require you to take and pass a Language proficiency test. What fun. In reality it’s not just a language test. You need a basic understanding of grammar, comprehension, writing, history, a little law and social studies. For the РвП it’s quite easy. However for full residency the pass mark is quite high at 80%.

It shouldn’t be underestimated. You will need the language certificate. However, full residency lasts for 5 years. There are now a number of commercial schools and some of the institutes offering courses for this. You can also find practice test papers on the Internet.

A word or two on the medical certificates you’ll need to get. There are the usual HIV and blood tests, confirming you’re not a junkie or alcoholic, plus a fluoroscan (maybe an X-ray at some older places) and a TB (Tubercolosis) test. There is also, believe it or not, a leprosy test. Several hundred years since it was eradicated in UK, but yes you still need to be tested. So you get 3 medical certificates, which you exchange for one, and that goes with your application.

Obviously too, you’ll need a completed application form. Personally I’d recommend you to get a Russian national to complete it. It’s used as a stone-walling device. It needs to be grammatically perfect. It also has weird quirks – one example is where your family members have to be listed in birthdate order. I made the cardinal error of listing them alphabetically and of course was rejected first time round. There is no

guidance on the form. However in the migration service office there are guidance notes plastered over the walls.

I simply photographed them.

The state fee for the temporary residency is 1,600 roubles. I once had a quote from a company to do this, for $6,000. The most obvious comment I have is, why?

These support companies can’t take the medicals for you, they can’t apply for your criminal record, they can’t take the language tests and they can’t gather all the rest of the paperwork. You have to do that. You also have to go to УФМС in person, so you are paying $6,000 to have someone go there with you. Personally, I’m not that lonely and I’d rather have the money in my pocket not someone else’s. If your Russian isn’t up to it, I’m sure a translator or one of the good people from English language Facebook groups could be negotiated with.

Give it a couple of months or so and you can go to collect the temporary residence stamp in the passport, your new visa and a pair of very inky hands as a result of being finger printed. If you’re self- employed, you also have a Work Permit along with your Residency, as a bonus.

So there you have it. Yes it’s involved and you have to put some effort in, but you can do it for small money.

On the other hand, you can pay someone to sit with you and pay a fortune. At the time of writing this article, I’m hearing that the local migration offices are being closed and a new central Moscow one is coming on line. More about that in the next article.

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Feature

By Marie Giral

Do expats parent responsible adults?

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Here we are, living in Moscow with our teenage or young adult children. How grown up are they? How ready are they to take on the challenges and responsibilities of the big wide world?

Marie Giral, author of a book on the subject: Les Adulescents, published at Le Pré aux Clercs, 2002, and now living in Moscow, sheds some insight into this issue, and places this discourse in the Moscow locale (Editor).

rowing up has always been a problem.

Before Christ, Plato already expressed in one of his Dialogues, how disappointing young people of his time were. More recently, Anton Chekhov in one of his short stories*, wrote that ‘children and young people take a long time growing up nowadays, and go on playing they are taxi drivers and generals till they are forty!’ Circumstances and fashion change but there is still no consensus as to what age children are supposed to become adults.

Nowadays, children seem to enter adolescence earlier, whereas young adults continue behaving as adolescents until a much later age. Parents can relax in the knowledge that recent neuroscientific research suggests that people are better equipped to make major life decisions in their late 20s rather than earlier in the decade.

The word teenager only appeared at the beginning of the 20th century, just before baby-boomers emerged and became young adults wanting and doing things that the previous generations had never thought of. It seems that today some of their offspring find it difficult to enter adulthood. Some young adults also struggle coming to terms with autonomy and personal responsibility, not to mention responsibility towards others.

Is it any easier for people with an expat childhood to become adults? They have had to adapt and adjust to different countries, cultures, languages, friends, schools, extra-curricular activities. They also have experienced a rather exclusive lifestyle that goes with at least one parent working as an expat. To understand how all this impacts expat children, I interviewed mothers as well as young adults, and the results were quite different than I expected.

With their long experience of being expats, the mothers I interviewed agreed on one basic fact: each person is different and will react differently to the

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situations they are confronted with. However one thing comes out clearly: the strongest influence, which stays with you, rests around what values are considered to be core values in family life. “All children have the same challenges, irrespective of background,” says Mirjam, a parent who originally came from Holland. “School teachers and parents set the fundamentals, the rest is secondary,” says Caroline, originally from France. Liz, from the UK, makes an important point. “My daughters probably reacted differently depending on their sibling position.” Being the eldest seems to help a child find strength in times of turmoil, perhaps because the child feels that is what is expected of him or her.

Changes can also have a different impact depending on the age when they occur. The early teen years seem much more difficult, and Carole, a parent from Belgium has this to say: “Having spent only two years in Japan, when it should have been five, my son Maxim reacted strongly when we had to move to Geneva.” He just could not envision this new change. “I had just made new friends here,” he said. However from not wanting to be the new one again, it turned out to be easy for him to adapt to his new situation, and make new friends… until they had to move again, after three years only.

Once again Maxim could not bring himself to accept it. His mother took time to talk with him. “I told him to remember our last move, from Tokyo to Geneva. He did.

And looked at me with a big smile!”

It seems that family ties are reinforced when you live abroad and have to move a lot. Josefa, a parent from Mexico says: “One thing expatriation did for us was to solidify family unity. We only had each other every time we moved, so it meant we stuck together, got over petty differences and since the children have grown up, we make the time really count when we do get together!”

Feature

Seeing your parents struggling with many things not only helps to create strong bonds but it shows you how you can deal with difficult decisions. Happy expats families seem to have indeed developed a talent at communicating. “When parents go through difficult times, children will feel it, so you’d better explain!” says Mirjam, a parent from Holland. The risk is in keeping silent and letting anxiety grow.

Having often benefited from an upper-grade education and lived very comfortably, how do these young grown-ups fare when they have to leave the expat bubble? Do they still expect their parents to support them? Carole, a parent from Belgium told me: “We make it very clear to our children how privileged they are. Furthermore, as parents, we are rather strict and demanding.” But so is the International School, with all the community service and sports competitions it offers. Does it help them to become human beings with a better understanding of others?

“My children have a greater understanding of different cultures,” says Mirjam, and all mothers concurred on that point. There seems to be a sense of extra confidence having been expats’ kids. Mirjam goes on to say: “It creates a much smaller world. For them, having a job in South Africa is no problem. Having to go from Johannesburg to Moscow is no problem.”

Michelle from the UK shares the same opinion: “My two sons have become excellent worldwide travellers and can navigate any airport just like catching a bus!”

Marina, just 19 years old, chose to go to university in Maastricht, far from her parents, but close to her sister.

“Finding myself alone felt scary and exciting” she says.

“I was more excited than frightened though. I looked at my brother and sister, and told myself that if they could do it, so could I!” Like many with an expat experience, Marina says she does not really know where home is but after three months she understood that she had to make the place where she studies her home. She explains that since she has been in Maastricht, she has had the chance to meet people “with different views of the world, society, and systems.” She felt very secure in the international schools with their reduced sample of the population but she has met people in her university who had to work hard to be there. “It opened my mind and made me realize that I had it very easy. It has changed me a lot.”

Marina indicates that she sees now more of the fraud in the world and it made her change the way she was living.

She has become vegetarian, buys second-hand clothes, and most of all connects with different kinds of people, whereas before she would only be with her group of friends. “This has been the most difficult.”

“The parents who say their children are doing so well and are so brilliant, successful and happy are undoubtedly telling the truth,” says Elizabeth originally from the United States. “As an expat you have access to better education, better opportunities and of course it opens a human being up to the world in a way that no home-grown education could quite do.” However there is another side to it, she says: “Expat schools are geared for the overachiever, they are very stimulating, but perhaps don’t take into account those who don’t conform to standard educational goals.” Such children sometimes struggled to become adults. It takes them longer, they often turn to alcohol and (are) not strangers to eating-disorders, as well as depression. Establishing a cause-and-effect relationship, however, seems a bit farfetched, as there does not – surprisingly perhaps – seem to be a direct correlation between that and being an expat child. Little has been written on this topic as yet. * The Party

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Feature

INTERNATIONAL

WOMEN’S

DAY Kaja Fosli

J

ust think of the pressures on dear Lenin. No matter what the history books maintain, Inessa Armand in the photos doesn’t look like a gal who could sublimate her id into ideology. And Nadezhda was ultimately his wife. Affairs had to be finely balanced.

Disillusioned History could do idealists become with some revision. prepares Close your eyes and the most fanatic him with imagine... political tools photos Inessa, knowing of kulaks that Lenin doesn’t hanging from want to be softened by lamposts, and listening to Beethoven, then whispers, “Why don’t we have a day to celebrate women?”

Lenin closes his eyes and considers. “Because of the revolution women paint buildings and bridges, work on the roads and operate munitions factories. All over Russia who wakes up first in the morning?

Women. Who makes the breakfast, irons the clothes, gets the children ready for school and the husband for work? Who somehow manages the household finances and does the daily shopping and even remembers the gift for the man’s mother?

And who goes out to

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work the same hours as men? Who does the dishes and washes the clothes? The women!” Lenin thinks.

“What if... what if the man once a year buys a box of Red October chocolates and gives his wife a cup of coffee in bed, and then chips two plates when doing the dishes so he won’t be asked again, and in the evening brings her a single rose and especially compliments her on her cooking, she will still have to prepare for the next day, and wipe the drips from the toilet seat and then that night in bed be extra affectionately grateful to the man.

This will maintain the status quo for the following 364 days? Urrah.

Let Trotsky rant about perpetual revolution, things are pretty good as they are. And if romantics take this as an opportunity to be poetic, why then, it is all the better. Disillusioned idealists become the most fanatic political tools.”

Can you imagine Lenin opening his eyes and saying, “Just like our revolution, this idea is too good to be confined to Russia. Let’s call it International Women’s Day.”

Business Insights

Business

Andrei Povarov

Will Big Data Change Your Business?

Yes, and Very Soon!

E

merging technologies take different roads to market, sometimes taking a route via unexpected shortcuts to maturity and productivity.

This means that two groups of technology users coexist: those who have vague ideas about a new technology, and those who are actively using it to generate revenue. This pattern can clearly be observed with Big Data today. Big Data mysteriously disappeared in 2015 from the Gartner Hype Cycle (a reputable annual report summarizing cross-industry perspectives on emerging technologies and trends1). Indeed, in 2014, Big Data was about to leave the Peak of Inflated Expectations but then it skipped three remaining Hype Cycle phases and found itself to be out of range as a fully matured technology. Which group do you belong to? If the former, can you jump to the latter? If yes, all you need

to do is to figure out how Big Data can work for your business.

Big Data does not mean operating large databases. Volume is only one component, the others being Velocity referring to unprecedentedly high data collection and processing speed and Variety allowing structured and unstructured data formats such as documents, email, images, audio, video, etc. These characteristics (Volume, Velocity and Variety) make the classical ‘3V’ definition of Big Data.

Sometimes one more V is added for Veracity representing data uncertainty: inconsistency, incompleteness, inaccuracy2. Whatever is the number of ‘V’s’, the term Big Data refers not only to data, but to technologies and processes helping to extract useful information and to generate practical business insights.

What are the sources of these huge unstructured data masses

Garther’s Hype Cycle: www.gartner.com/newsroom/id/3114217, www.gartner.com/newsroom/id/2819918 How to Overcome 3 Key Big Data Challenges, Lavastorm Analytics, www.lavastorm.com 3 Shermer M., The Moral Arc: How Science Makes Us Better People, Henry Holt and Company LLC, New York, 2015 4 Douglas T., Big Data and Beyond, How companies can find insight in Big Data, Aug’2015, www.visioncritical.com 5 IDC Big Data Research, www.idc.com 1 2

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and why should their processing be useful? The digital economy we have entered is creating much more information than before. If five exabytes (five billion gigabytes) is what the whole of mankind produced from the earliest days of civilization until 2003, between 2003 and 2010 the same amount of information has being generated every two days, and from 2013 five exabytes were recreated every 10 minutes3.

In a similar process to extracting rough materials from mines and refining useful minerals; collecting and mining Big Data can bring priceless findings especially when put in a real business context. Today we only process 0.5% of data collected4, but the Big Data technology and services market is growing at a 26.4% compound annual growth rate with estimates to achieve $41.5 billion vendor revenue derived from sales of related hardware, software and services in 2018, or about six times the growth rate of the overall information technology market5.

Is the army of trained analysts doing this mining? Not at all, and this is the key point in understanding Big Data. No human manual work can cope with 3V/4V complexity, instead self-learning algorithms can do the trick while the function of humans (called Data Scientists) becomes to set up algorithms, help

Business the programmes to learn, interpret and visualize results, monitor and correct. Algorithms learned from huge data sets can find not obvious, not scientifically justifiable, not even understandable dependencies and patterns. The amazing fact is that this works in practice really well! Similarly to how in ancient times people could farm without any scientific knowledge about soil, temperatures, climate, grains, referring only to empirical observations and experiments gathered many generations before, today any large volumes of data collected in a particular business area can be processed through self-instruction.

There are many examples of Big Data’s practical use. For example, clients’ purchasing behaviour patterns can inform about other needs sometimes not known by customers themselves, which generates considerable cross-selling revenues.

Telecom companies are retaining clients by recognizing signs of coming ‘unloyalty’ even before clients themselves realize this themselves.

Banks are assessing risks of fraud and doing credit scoring. Recommender systems select for a customer what films to see or what music to listen based on feedback from people with similar taste. In politics – Obama’s presidential campaign is considered the first ‘data driven’ 6 campaign in presidential history.

Taking business aside – how can Big Data affect your private live? Is it good or bad for you and what are the legal aspects here? A simple test: what do you feel when an advert appears on your screen on the subject you’ve mentioned just few minutes ago in your private email? Not to worry!

Algorithms again, not human beings, are reading your e-mails and they do no more than usual spam filters.

Can someone challenge your privacy using Big Data? Not really.

Collecting data is normally anonymous, while results of Big Data algorithms apply to your personal situation only within a closed environment (your internet space with a particular shop).

You should only be aware that the existence of hidden dependencies (discovered by Big Data methods) makes your profile a much deeper source of information about you by involving your behaviour/purchase history, social networks interactions etc.

Having this in mind and being careful with your digital traces (just common sense) while supported by personal data protection laws including Russia, creates protection.

Can consumers benefit from Big Data? Yes, personal decisions can be made more effectively, cross-selling can be in buyers’ interests, recommender and personal insights systems can directly answer customers questions such as: ‘Am I spending too much time in social networks during sunny days?’7.

Is Big Data working in Russia? Quite a lot, and there are international and local companies deeply involved. For example, Yandex is using Big Data technology for more than 70% of its products and applications8, most of them have already served the general public for years, while some of them have revolutionized business in Russia.

How can companies find out more about Big Data and start using it? Most available training programs are still aiming at techno-analytical skills suitable for data scientists (e.g.

Yandex Data Factory, Digital October).

Very recently professional Big Data training programs for top- and midlevel managers have started to appear (e.g. New Media School/Higher School of Economics) giving practical knowledge on how to start Big Data in your company, whom to recruit, what tasks to formulate and how, without digging into technical details.

A general piece of advice on assessing Big Data’s potential benefits for your company is to consider data supply and demand. What role do data collected in a natural way play as part of your normal business processes (supply)? Can you or someone else create value out of it? Can you use or start selling data? What data can bring value for your customers disregarding sources of such data (demand) and if you do not collect all this by yourself, can you buy or obtain such data from open sources? The remaining processing part can be done by deploying in-house facilities (e.g. Hadoop-based systems) or by using a cloud environment (e.g.

Amazon Web Services).

To summarize, Big Data is a powerful tool that can create a lot of value for your business. Not using it puts you in a disadvantage, as your competitors will certainly be there. If you do not change your business to accommodate Big Data, it will be changed anyway by others and probably not in a direction you want. And note: all this is actively happening right now – remember that only the last year, Big Data jumped out from the Hype Cycle!

Maycotte H.O., Will Big Data Determine Our Next President? Forbes, May 12, 2015, www.forbes.com Wilson H. J., Rethinking Big Data to Give Consumers More Control, Harvard Business Review, May 08, 2014 8 Yandex Data Factory, https://yandexdatafactory.com/technologies 6 7

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Business

Empathizing with Gogol

By Christopher Weafer

E

ighteen years ago I arrived in Moscow. I had every intention of staying one, maybe two years before returning to Bangkok, from where the push of the Asian financial crisis and the pull of Troika Dialog persuaded me to leave a comfortable existence in a city where you could actually see the sun all year round for a ‘Moscow adventure’.

Today I am a fully paid up member of that group of foreigners who have found themselves addicted to the Russia soap-opera. As with all good soap-operas you always want to see what happens in the next season.

For all of the past eighteen years I have lived in the same neighborhood of Moscow. My first apartment had a view of the north-east section of Patriarshiye Prudy, the spot where, in Bulgakov’s The Master and Margarita, the Devil appeared to the literary critic Berlioz and where the latter subsequently lost his head under a tram. Many an hour was wasted watching tourists risk their life for a photo staging that scene. Also for many of those eighteen years my journey to work has involved walking past the statue of Nikolai Gogol, set in the small courtyard of the house at the junction of Nikitsky Boulevard and Novy Arbat, where Gogol lived his last four years and where he died.

Those familiar with the statue know it to be of a very depressed looking Gogol. It was originally placed at Gogolevsky Boulevard, beside the Cathedral. It is reported that people were stunned into silence when the statue was unveiled in 1909 because instead of the dignified image of the literary genius they were used to, they saw, as one commentator wrote at the time, ‘a heartsick figure muffled in the raincoat and grieving on the verge of despair.’ During Stalin’s reign the statue became such a symbol of national despair that it was eventually removed from sight in 1951. Several years later the statue was placed in its current location. One of the features of the statue is that, like a painting, the eyes appear to follow you as you walk around it. Not so much an admonishment to ‘stay off the grass’ – more a ‘you’re doomed’ look.

For many years I would walk past the statue and think that Gogol would have hated modern Moscow.

The city had become vibrant, full of (relatively) cheerful

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people with growing optimism. These days it seems as if Gogol is saying ‘I told you so.’ The city with which he was more comfortable has returned.

I am not going to run though all of the reasons for economic gloom nor the depressing scenarios so beloved of Russia’s critics. There can hardly be anybody living and working in Russia who is not familiar, and equally fed up with, the long list of problems. I will simply reflect on the fact that the economy performed relatively better in 2015 than had been expected (the good news) but also that the trend in the current quarter, and probably in the next quarter, remains downward (the bad news). The stark reality is that conditions for most people and most businesses are much more likely to get worse than to improve until the autumn.

The two key conditions for arresting the decline and creating conditions for recovery are a) a rally in the price of Brent to $40 per barrel or higher, and b) an easing, if not removal, of financial sector sanctions. The other sanctions don’t matter. Until one, if not both, of those conditions are met the government will remain in damage limitation mode while avoiding, if not culling, investment programmes. There is a lot of increasingly credible discussion about creating new economic drivers in the economy and boosting industries outside of extractive industries, for example in agriculture and food production. But, being realistic about it, given the scale of what needs to be done, it will be many years before the results of any investment made today can start to improve the top line in the economy.

Meantime there are basically only two issues to pay attention to in terms of what will determine how long the economy remains in the current slump and how long it will be before optimism returns and passers-by can again dismiss Gogol’s restored smugness.

By far the greatest determinant of the rouble’s exchange rate is the oil price. The Central Bank stopped using it’s reserves to try and support the ruble in early 2015 and since then the correlation between the rouble and oil has mostly been very close. For the rouble to rally oil must recover. For that to happen there needs to be a reduction in supply. Saudi Arabia has made it clear that it is prepared to continue toughening out current

Business

conditions and will not cut supply. Instead it is waiting for the low oil price to cut into the output from its nemesis, the US shale industry. That is only happening slowly so far but it is reasonable to assume that an oil price average close to $30 per barrel will force more of the high cost producers to shut down in the coming months. A reduction in US shale output is, therefore, one of the key requirements for creating conditions to allow the oil price, and the rouble, to recover. It is always possible that OPEC’s resolve will crack or that Iranian sanctions will be re-imposed or that some other unexpected event will cut supply. But, for now, where the rouble trades against other currencies depends mostly on what happens to US shale production.

The second issue is political stability in Kiev. Since the start of this year there has been greater engagement between Russia and both the US (in particular) and the EU with a view to progressing Minsk-II. It seems more and more that the critical factor may be President Poroshenko’s ability to get the necessary legislation passed by an increasingly fractious and hostile Rada.

Another, seemingly inevitable, political upheaval in Kiev will delay the process past the next sanctions review in July. The question may then be whether the US and EU will give Moscow credit for effort or whether sanctions will be extended into 2017? Damage limitation will remain the priority policy for the Kremlin until the Finance Ministry and the country’s big corporations can again access international capital markets at competitive rates. That implies a continuation of muddle-through economics at best.

Demonic figures have long been a regular feature of Russian geo-politics and Russian literature. Apart from Bulgakov’s Master and Margarita, Gogol used this theme in Petersburg Stories, Dostoevsky in the Brothers Karamazov and Lermontov in The Demon.

It is fitting somehow that the devil should also have had a role in Gogol’s death. Gogol blamed the devil for forcing him to burn the only manuscript of the second

part of Dead Souls in February 1852, in the house next to where the statue sits today. He was so distraught at what he called the devil’s practical joke that he refused all food and water from that day and died nine days later. That was the trouble with Gogol; he took such events and comments far too personally. We can only hope that those in the big red house down the street are more pragmatic.

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Legal

Knowing your rights following lay off or redundancy

By Luke Conner, Conner & Company LLC, in association with Alexey Kokorin

T

he recent financial crisis, including the onset of sanctions, the seemingly ever decreasing oil price and the resulting devaluation of the ruble, has done little to help the employment prospects of expatriates in Moscow or elsewhere in Russia.

Indeed, a large proportion of the expat community have lost their jobs, whether through lay off or redundancy.

This article aims to provide a lawyer’s perspective on the situation and a brief guide to your rights should you ever need to rely on them.

One of the first myths to debunk, is that lots of expatriates have been ‘made redundant.’ Under Russian law, a distinction is made between genuine redundancy, where a company is liquidated or a particular position in the workplace is closed down completely, and termination of an employment contract by mutual agreement, where an employee is asked by his/her employer to leave (perhaps because of the current market climate or an internal disagreement of some kind) and agrees a severance package. In our experience, such termination by mutual agreement is far more commonplace than genuine redundancy, although the two are often confused in practice.

So what are your rights in the latter situation? Effectively, if you are being asked to leave and you have not committed a gross violation of your official duties as an employee and your position is not defunct, then you can agree a severance

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payment with your employer.

The most common practice is for employers to offer 3 months’ salary (net of taxes) in line with the maximum that would be payable in case of redundancy. That said, there are often cases of employers paying 5 or 6 months’ salary and sometimes employees may accept a lower payment of, say, 2 months’ salary. The agreed amount should be documented in a contract of termination, which should also specify the day when you are expected to leave the company.

Your rights as an employee who is being made redundant (i.e. where your position in the workplace is completely eliminated) are to 2 months’ advance notice. During this period, the employer should offer you other vacant positions within the company. If there is no suitable alternative role or you do not accept the employer’s offer, your employment will then terminate on the date when the 2 month notice period expires or on such other earlier date as you and your employer have agreed. You will be entitled to 1 month’s average net salary as severance pay, plus up to 2

months’ average net salary if during that period you remain out of work.

Whatever the reason for your contract being terminated, you are entitled to all outstanding salary amounts and to a payment in respect of all accrued, but unused, holiday entitlement. Additionally, on your last day of employment, the employer should return your work book to you with an appropriate entry.

One point worth noting which may be relevant for certain expatriates, is that CEOs (i.e. company general directors) are subject to slightly different rules, and may have their contracts terminated based on a decision of the shareholders of the company. Such dismissal does not require notice, but the CEO will be automatically entitled to 3 months’ average net salary (if a larger amount has not been provided for in the employment contract).

CEOs’ employment contracts may also contain separately negotiated grounds for dismissal.

If you have any further questions on the above or other local legal issues, please do not hesitate to contact Luke Conner at Conner & Company LLC, based in Moscow.

Legal

Customer Outreach Is About Creating Value Chet Bowling

I

frequently talk to CEOs of foreign companies operating in Russia, and with increasing frequency, we discuss how to reduce the cost of attracting new customers and keep the loyalty of existing ones. In solving these issues for Alinga I have developed an approach that has proven results: a quarter of our potential customers become actual customers, and more than half of them come back to us again. So I often tell people what I’m about to tell you.

There are three rules to client outreach that I hold to and that I teach my team.

Be proactive Our managers and I regularly meet with clients regardless of whether they are experiencing any problems or have any questions. We talk about a client’s goals and the projects they’re currently involved in. For an outsourcing business this is especially important since a provider generally gains information on clients’ transactions after the fact.

If we learn about them in advance it’s possible to have an impact on the result, for example by advising on how to better close a deal or consulting on compliance with legal standards. This is undoubtedly valued by our clients and increases their loyalty.

It’s clear that it’s physically impossible to meet tête-à-tête with each client and partner. I do try to meet up with them at events held by the American Chamber of Commerce (ACC), the Association of European Businesses (AEB), and others. Chief executives are among those who attend these events, and a lot of issues are taken care of quickly. The magazine Moscow expat Life that you’re reading now holds really useful networking events. Networking takes up about 60-70% of my time.

Establish, maintain and analyze your contacts Business breakfasts – meetings in a small circle of people to share experience and discuss pressing

challenges – provide another good opportunity for communication.

We regularly hold them for CEOs from our client companies and other foreign companies working in various industries in Russia.

Recent meetings have been devoted to HR policy, risk management, working with management teams, and opportunities for growth. Our function leaders and invited experts hold webinars on professional topics for employees at our client companies. This is how we create a community of leaders and specialists who take an interest and have confidence in our expert assessments.

Be useful Companies that have already become your clients should feel added value by collaborating with you. We actively share our knowledge during business breakfasts, webinars, and in our newsletter Vestnik. It’s devoted to the practical aspects of doing business in Russia and comes out every two months in both Russian and English.

As for business acquaintances, one of the most valuable things is to analyze them. It’s not worth selling your services aggressively. Your task is to express good feelings and trust, and be a competent and useful conversation partner. You need to find common topics, express interest, and share your experience solving relevant problems. This works when it comes to building any relationship.

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Food

Father

Plov T

here are few places in the world where you cannot find the unique Uzbek dish ‘Plov’. In this article, I am not going to teach you how to cook this culinary masterpiece, but I would like to tell you about the pivotal role of a Uzbek businessman Nodira Sadikova in promoting Uzbek Plov in Moscow.

Ilkhom Ismailov caught my attention with his positive and creative attitude towards his start up business. He has earned the nickname: ‘Father Plov,’ and there is a valid reason for this. He launched the online Uzbek delivery restaurant ‘plov.com’ and people can now enjoy real Uzbek Plov, cooked according to old recipes, with century-old traditions right here in Moscow. Nevertheless all the products except meat and water are carefully chosen and brought directly from Uzbekistan, which means that Ilkhom’s Plov comes complete with the flavour and the spirit of Uzbek cuisine. When Plov lovers order Plov online, they receive a piece of Uzbek warmness and hospitality, something that is naturally Uzbek.

Ilkhom Ismailov worked at Troika Dialog for 4 years, and then for 5 years at Aton. In 2014, he launched the online delivery platform Plov.com. One of the essential parts of this successful story is the unique design and style of packaging with ‘plovinsims’ like ‘All you need is Plov’, I wanna be Plov by you’, ‘Plov must go on…’

Like many other successful people, Ilkhom gained experience in the finance world and transformed his hobby into a business. When you like what you do, you put all your effort and love into it. In this, Ilkhom is an example for all start-up entrepreneurs who would like to develop their business ideas or projects. It is important to note that he is not alone in the Plov business; he is

actively developing it with his brothers Dilshod and Zafar Ismailov. So we can call this a family business.

The first beginnings of an online delivery Plov business appeared in 2008 when Ilkhom was working at Troika. He realized that his colleagues celebrated every corporate event with an office party. They always ordered sushi, pizza, Ossetian or Russian pies and noodles. But, there was no Plov on the order list. Ismailov decided to research this issue and find out about online Plov deliveries. It soon became apparent that there were no restaurants or cafés offering online Plov deliveries.

Ilkhom noticed the same habit to order sushi and pizza when he started to work at Aton. One day he recommended his colleagues to order homemade Plov prepared by his friends. The demand for Plov grew, and this led to an unexpected change in Ilkhom’s career – he decided to change his occupation, from investment banker to Plov-Maker businessman. He believes that if there is a demand for a product, there should be nice and attractive supply to meet that demand.

The online restaurant menu consists of three sections – three different types of Plov and appetizers in the form of vegetable salads and Uzbek bread (Lepyoshka). The menu has been created with an aim to make it easy to place an order (see table 2). ‘When you go to a Japanese restaurant, the main course is usually embellished with ‘Philadelphia’ or ‘California’, in an Italian restaurant with ‘Ceasar’, pasta and pizza ‘Three cheeses’. It is unbearable!” – Ilkhom said. Despite the fact that Uzbek cuisine is very rich and diversified, the Ismailov brothers have placed Plov as the main dish in their menu. In the future, they want to expand their menu list by offering Samsa (small Uzbek pies with various fillings) and pastries.

In today’s busy world, people have a tendency to prefer ordering food rather than simply going to restaurants. (See table 1). Ilkhom designed an online Plov delivery system based on his own taste and creativity.

One of his principal strategies is to deliver everyone unique and age-long taste of national Plov in stylish and eye-catching manner.

Table 1 Delivery of food in Russia

Table 2 ‘plov.com’ and investment

150,000. In-house orders made with delivery service by Russians 840-860 roubles. Average receipt on delivery of ready-made meals 79%. Office workers order pizza, 42% sushi 59%. Order meals through the internet $1.5 billion. The volume of delivery service market of ready meals in Russia Source: RBK. Research, Yandex, Delivery Club

8 million roubles. Investment 350-390 roubles. Price of Plov (300gr) 1,700 roubles. Average receipt of “Plov #1” 7,055 portions of Plov per month should be sold to reach break-even point 2,5 million roubles. Monthly revenue of “Plov #1” Source: RBK. Research, Yandex, Delivery Club (http://www.rbc.ru/own_bus iness/16/10/2014/54240ba6cbb20fb1b3c62b67)

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Culture

Italian Sculptor and Mosaicist Marco Bravura

Golden Section

Interview by John Harrison Marco Bravura, a well-know Italian sculptor and mosaicist moved to Russia in 2007, with the help of the highly successful philanthropist and businessman Ismail Akhmetov. Marco now lives and works in Tarusa with his wife Daniela.

Head, Moscow Biennial of Contemporary Art, 2011

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Culture How did you end up here in Russia?

Everything started rather slowly. I’m from Ravenna in Italy.

After living for 20 years in Venice and in other places in Italy and abroad, I finally returned to the town that I was born in. It was when I returned to Ravenna that I became more involved with mosaics. One day, a Russian called Ismail Akhmetov, came to visit in 2004. At that time I was creating a fountain for a public space in Ravenna, in a school with a large studio, with the help of about 12 students. The fountain was huge, it was made of two 9-metre blocks. When Mr. Akhmetov came to the studio he was amazed and said that he wanted to do something like this in Russia. He visited me in my private studio in Ravenna a few times after that.

He liked my work and started collecting it; he bought almost everything I made. Then he suggested that I come over to Russia.

I asked: “to do what?,” he answered: “whatever you want.” We [my wife and me] like to travel, and so we came here for a month. It was really beautiful. Then we came for two months, five months, and then 10 months. Eventually we moved here altogether.

What are you doing as an artist?

Let me tell you what happened to mosaics here. Mosaics were big in the Soviet Union and quite amazing. Mainly they were used for huge propaganda mural works. Ismail had a vision of building on what was done in the past but invigorating it with contemporary artistic expressions and processes. It is the same sort of thing as I was trying to do in Italy, where mosaic as an art form, until the 1970s was looked at as being something to do with cemeteries and the church, and nothing else. In the beginning we created many works and organised many exhibitions in his private gallery here in Moscow, MusivumGallery.

I personally love mosaics because of their colour; the potential is huge particularly in sculpture. Sculpture has been devoid of colour for so long, and mosaic is perfect to re-infuse sculpture with colour, thanks to new materials and techniques.

So this is your major challenge as an artist?

Yes, that is what I was trying to do back in Ravenna, and since then I have been developing this mission. I still believe in beauty, which is almost a sort of dirty word in art now. But a few people have offered support. As Patrick Mimran said: “Art doesn’t have to be ugly to look clever.”

Mosaic has something to do with beauty, and it is a very labour intensive. In Russia, people are not disgusted by the idea of beauty as they are in the West. When they like something, they tell you. So Russia is a good environment to do what I am doing now. I feel I am in the right place.

Do you think that Russia has sort of by-passed post modernism?

Russian artists are very into what is going on in the rest of the world and they have become like artists everywhere. Today’s Russians don’t know a lot about what was happening in Art in the last century. I am talking about the mass of people, not a few individuals. Art itself has changed in that we do not have movements any more, like the PopArt movement and all the ‘isms’ of the 1900s. After that, everything collapsed, and another factor is that art is no more only in

Golden River, on display at Kazan Kremlin

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Culture

RotoB installation

the hands of the Western world. Now with the Chinese coming up, with the Indians, it is not clear what is going on. You could say that globalisation is uniting us, but only if we talk about globalisation of individuals, not of movements.

How do you sell your work?

I am working on my projects. I see that investors buy art as a way to keep the value of their money. That is why they travel to Paris, London, New York or wherever. In London there are about 2,000 galleries, in Moscow, which has about the same population – 20 million, there are 200.

So London is a centre for international art buyers who come from everywhere, and Moscow is not. On a cultural level, Moscow is a centre.

However, things are changing.

We did an exhibition in Minsk which lasted two months. 54,000 people visited the exhibition, which would never happen in Italy or in Europe.

The ticket sales alone were huge. But now we are getting commissions, that is, people with money have seen my work and they want to invest in it, but they also want something special.

This is not the same as going into an exhibition in Europe or the States and buying something. In a way, it is like artists worked in the late Middle Ages: on commissions of the great patrons of the Renaissance.

How long do you see yourself living here?

As long as I have something to do, I am very happy to be here. I like the people very much, I really like them, they are not so closed when you get to know them. I have real friends here and I cannot say the same thing about other places. You feel that they understand you.

What do other Italians feel about life here?

We are post war children. I was born in 1949, our generation didn’t know anything about the War, and we used to go on holiday to different countries. But our fathers were killing each other. Then something started to happen in Europe. We believed that people should come together, there was this feeling of creating something, a new society.

Here, I get the same feeling, a feeling of creativity. In Europe, we have stopped talking about the future. Here, it is all about the future. Maybe it will take blood sweat and tears, and people are not afraid of that. But you don’t see people complaining of this or that, they go on and on, and this is something that I appreciate very much. I hope that Russians can finally find a third way to live, that is not communist or purely capitalist, a third way. We are all tired and compromised. Russians have a balance between the Orient and the West. What surprises people greatly in the West, is that these people are not aggressive. When I used to go out in the evening when I was living in the United States, I did not feel safe. Here, I have never felt any kind of insecurity while walking the streets. My daughter lived here for more than a year and cycled back from her work. She never ever felt any feeling of insecurity, because there is not the consciousness of violence here.

So Russia is a land of opportunity, I do not feel like I have to leave here. I feel accepted.

Vortex

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Feature Interview with Gamletovich Leningradov

Zoo opening and closing times in winter (Dec – March) 10 am to 5 pm (ticket office closes at 4 pm) Cost: adults Mon-Fri 400 roubles, on weekends 500 rubles Children (0 to 17) – free admission

(Samson for friends) Interview by Elena Migunova Photos by Anastasia Kadetova

What is your name, and where are you from?

My full name is Samson Gamletovich Leningradov – Samson for friends. I’m the only animal at our zoo who has both a patronymic and a surname. I was born in 1993, in St. Petersburg, in the second oldest Russian zoo (last year it celebrated its 150th anniversary). I received my name in honour of a famous fountain ‘Sampson’ situated in a St. Petersburg suburb called Peterhof.

My father’s name was Hamlet, my mum’s name was Luga after a local river. But I consider myself a Muscovite, as I came here as a baby.

Do you remember your early childhood?

Not really. My mum told me she gave birth to me standing up, and I dropped to the ground like we all do. I was about 1.8 meters high, the normal size for babies of my species. I already had little horns or, better to say, little bumps.

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After the New year – follow us on the zoo site. New programs are under preparation: For conservation programs and other events - more detailed information will be available on the site and FB page of Moscow Zoo. https://www.facebook.com/ MoscowZoo Summer camps for kids 7 – 13 (4 14-days long programs – parents bring children every day at 9 and pick them up at 6) Phone: 8 (499) 255 57-63 for more information on special programmes for children and others.

Why is it so important for you?

I have to spend the whole winter indoors. To be honest with you, I can survive low temperatures. My compatriots, African animals like cheetahs and gnu antelopes, enjoy the snow and walk outdoors in the winter months. But we giraffes are too tall: it is pretty risky to slip and fall. When you crash down from such a height, you can be seriously injured. That’s why our humans keep us safe and only let us out when all the snow and ice have gone away.

Actually, it is okay in my winter house, too. I am privileged to occupy the memorial building – the oldest house in the zoo now. My nearest neighbours are a tapir and a pair of skunks, and we share our house with the Zoo history museum, which is on the upper floor. Much better than being alone.

Educational programs: Besides traditional guided tours and lectures: Interactive programs that include theater performances, quests, animal shows. Different variations, topics and difficulty of tasks, depending of age and individual choice.

5+ and older – up to teens and even adults: “Art-Zebra” studios – children’s creative workshops (drawing & painting, sculpture (modeling?), animalistic photography)

Do you feel the approach of spring?

Oh, yes, I am looking forward for it and I’m happy that there is already a hint of spring in the air.

Feature I heard that giraffes live in small groups is that true?

Why then you are waiting so impatiently for spring to come?

We – giraffes – like having lots of room to ourselves.

In the wild, giraffes live in the savannah which is a huge open space. There you can see things that are a great distance away – I can make out objects a kilometre away!

From my enclosure I can see an Eagle Rock with sea eagles, Californian condors and other birds of prey perched on it. During winter I could only hear their voices (my hearing is extremely good by the way!). But I can’t wait to communicate with them in person, to ask how they spent the winter, and how are they preparing to the mating season. As far as I know, keepers are supposed to bring twigs for the birds to starts building nests.

Behind the Rock there’s the zoo’s Bird Lake with all its web-footed inhabitants – noisy ducks, geese and swans. Exotic flamingos will show up, they are also keen to leave from their winter place. Giraffes have colour vision, so I can distinguish most colours of rainbow just like you can.

My next-door neighbours are cheetahs. When guided tours go by, the guides often mention us both as record breakers, since the giraffes are the tallest animals and cheetahs – the fastest runners. We and the cheetahs are good friends. Sometimes they pretend to be hunting my other neighbour – Marquise the cat from my house – but she is too smart to let them approach her.

Yes, but all attempts to find a life mate for me have failed. But I don’t feel alone: My visitors are my herd. I am always happy to bend down, to let them see my wonderful horns, my long (about 50 cm) blackish tongue, my charming huge eyes with long eyelashes.

Do visitors feed you?

Er, yes, but it is no good. Here at the zoo I receive enough healthy and balanced food, lots of fruit and vegetables and, of course, my favourite willow twigs with tender leaves. But, of course, being a gentleman, I just cannot insult my guests and politely take what visitors give me. It’s great if they bring a carrot or a piece of apple. Some strange people treat me with chips or bread – it is pretty harmful for giraffes and other animals. Better come to see me and talk to me.

How you drink?

In the wild, giraffes get most of their water from juicy leaves in the wet season, and in the dry season they need to drink at least every three days.

To drink from a river or a lake we need to spread our forelegs very wide to reach water. In the zoo it is thought out pretty well – my drinking bowl is fixed at about 1 meter above the ground, so it’s easier to drink.

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LIfestyle A few of my favourite things, for spring-cleaning and perking-up.

M

Made in Russia

y first trip to Moscow was in March 1991.

Any romantic notions associated with cultural characters and their creators were dispelled by greyness and heaviness: sky, snow, Stalin buildings, dripping icicles turning to daggers, then to mush then to puddles.

Actually I barely remember first impressions because the fun times that followed overshadow them: midnight swimming in the pool on the site of Christ the Saviour Cathedral; cartwheeling down Tverskaya to celebrate a gastronomic feast, which cost the equivalent of £5 for three; camping in a forest near Voronezh to avoid a dezhurnaya asking after my papers to mention but a few…

The mood in Moscow may not be quite as mischievous today but the exchange rate is almost as appealing for visitors and the urban landscape is definitely jollier. However, even the most positively strung may feel challenged during the thaw months. Beyond a vivid imagination and developed sense of

humour I recommend the following pick-me-ups to brush away the winter cobwebs, all made in Moscow: Little Joys by Anna Slavutina are exactly that and her workshop reminiscent of scenes in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. Earrings with names like Flora, Wings and Flower Buds remind us that summer’s on the way. http://www.slavutina.ru Charisma Fashion House for flirty day dresses in marine stripes and pretty polka dots. I’m tempted by their figure flattering sheaths in a range of soothing blues. http://charismafashion.ru No need to crawl the walls while sheltering from the elements - be bold!

Add a splash of colour and adventure to your home with graffiti art by enigmastyle at http://artorder.ru For aesthetic and aromatic pleasure, Fragrant Roses are so

seductive. But how to choose between Prince Jardinier, Lolita Lempika and Lady Killer? http://fragrantrose.ru Put a pep in your step with a beret on your head. Garin, specialises in male millinery which looks just as jaunty, should it happen to be swiped by the lady in your life! He does in fact offer a range for her too and will custom make to deliver within one or two days. Call the man behind the label Sergei, direct on 8 926 728 1958 As Anna Karenina said: “Spring is the time of plans and projects.” Time to move on!

By Anna Jackson-Stevens PR specialist

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Classified Advertising NIGHT FLIGHT

SCANDINAVIA

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

“Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

17 Tverskaya St M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Scandinavian, European +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian +7 (495) 937 5630 www.scandinavia.ru

CHICAGO PRIME

STARLITE DINER

Moscow’s most popular steakhouse & bar. Top steaks, efficient service and large wine list

Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, Steaks +7 (495) 988 1717 www.chicagoprime.ru

Jade Tsoy Beauty Specialist Hello, my name is Jade, I am a fully qualified beautician with professional qualifications. For your convenience I make all treatments in the comfort of your home Tel: +7 916 786 3488 E-male: fint0702@mail.ru

US Dental Olympiyskiy prospect 16, bld.5 Tel: +7(495) 933-86-86; +7(965) 150-50-20 www.usdentalcare.com

Russian Language School 11 Arbat Street (floor 6) 119019 Moscow RUSSIA Tel: +7 495 691 56 46 E-mail: info@ruslanguage.ru

Moscow Good Food Club Moscow’s premier Dining Club

Inter-Cultural Training How to make the best of Russia on a cultural and business level. Individual and corporate packages available

John Harrison Tel: +7 916 521 3110 harrisonj@outlook.com

This space costs just R.8,500 for 3 months!

8a, Strasnow BulevardM. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American +7 (495) 989 4461 www.starlite.ru

KINGS MEAT Bacon, Sausage AND Delicatessen Sandwich meats locally produced delivered to home or office www.kingsmeat.ru sales@kingsmeat.ru English speaking staff Tel: +7 495 741 49 10

Residential Development Projects Investment Opportunities in the Tula Region

Please contact David Morley Tel: +7 925 367 9241

Moscow Networking Exceptional Networking for Exceptional business people www.MoscowexpatLife.ru/networking

Elan Languages Quality professional translations

Tel: +7 (495) 627 57 34 info@elanlanguages.ru www.elanlanguages.ru

Contact Anastasia on +7 916 697 2289 to advertise here!

Contact Anastasia on +7 916 697 2289 to advertise here!

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants OSTERIA DELLA PIAZZA BIANCA

SCANDINAVIA 7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$

Moscow Good Food

Club

“Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

REAL FOOD RESTAURANT Crowne Plaza Hotel/WTC Krasnopresenskaya Nab 12.

Moscow Good Food

Club

Full a la Carte menu incorporating healthy dishes made from organic ingredients.

Open kitchen and excellent food & wine

Moscow Good Food

Club

True Italian cuisine from Executive Chef Giuseppe Todisco

Good Food

Club

Typical Italian traditions for food and hospitality. Food care is the most important aspect, with freshness and simplicity as the main characteristics. Feel and breath Italian culture and true Italian cuisine.

17 Tverskaya St M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Scandinavian, Moscow Good Food European, $$$ Club +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

Moscow Good Food

Club

Moscow’s most popular steakhouse & bar. Top steaks, efficient service and large wine list

KATIE O SHEA’S STEAKHOUSE & BAR Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Irish, $$ Genuine Irish pub with great beer, food and atmosphere

Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Indian, $ www.aromass.ru +7 499 125 6276

Moscow Good Food

Club

“The most authentic and best Indian food in Moscow. Delivery service also available”

TORRO GRILL Multiple M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ Some of the best steaks in Moscow. Great service, great drinks and great prices

Moscow Good Food

Club

Comfortable and classy restaurant with creative dished from the Finnish chef.

Muzey, Kosmodimianskaya nab. 52/7 (next to Swisshotel)Moscow Good Food M. Paveletskaya Club Cuisine: Italian, European, Pan-Asian, $$ Extremely comfortable Italian restaurant serving high quality creative & traditional Italian cuisine, personally cooked by Chef Marco Lachetta

WINE RELIGION

AROMASS INDIAN RESTAURANT

STEAKHOUSE & BAR Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, $$

22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Tverskoy bulvar 26, bldg 2 M. Pushkinskaya.

Cuisine Scandinavian, International $$$$

MUZEY RESTAURANT

NIGHT FLIGHT

“Casual but elegant restaurant offering an entertaining gastronomic experience”

CHICAGO PRIME:

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Moscow

CHEKHONTE

ITALIANETS 13, Samotechnaya Ul, m. Trubnaya, Cuisine Italian, English menu price $$$

Lesnaya street 5a M. Belarusskaya Cuisine: Italian $$$$

ORANGE TREE RESTAURANT

Michurinsky Pr.16 M. Universitet Cuisine: European Bistro $$$

Moscow Good Food

Club

New style of European bistro with creative food and a large wine selection.

CAFE RUSSE Ritz Carlton, Tverskaya St 3, M. Okhotny Ryad, Cuisine: Euopean $$$

Moscow Good Food

Club

Casual dining in an elegant atmosphere, top chefs and extensive wine list

STARLITE DINER 8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, $$ Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Community Services Business Clubs/ Organisations

The Association of European Business (AEB) CEO: Dr. Frank Schauff Web site: www.aebrus.ru

AEB is an active community of about 630 members, providing a network for sharing opinion and experience. The AEB is an advocate of its members’ opinions, generated in 40 industrial and crosssectorial committees, sub- committees and working groups.

ITA Italian Trade Agency Director: Maurizio Forte Web site: www.italtrade.com/rossija

The ITA supports the internationalization of the Italian economy. We have been working in Russia since 1966.

French-Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CCIFR) General Director: Pavel Chinsky Web site: http://www.ccifr.ru The Danish Business Club in Moscow Chairman: Kasper Ditlevsen Daytime job: Commercial Director – Uhrenholt Russia & CIS Web site:www.dbcmoscow.camp9.org

The Danish Business Club has both corporate and private members, almost all of whom are based in or doing business in Moscow. About 80% of our subscribing members are Danish.

The French-Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry is aimed at developing economic cooperation between Russia and France. We organise a large variety of different events for our members to meet each other, such as sector committees, business presentations, B2B meetings, cultural events.

Moscow expat Life is very popular and copies of our magazine go fast.

Order your copy on-line and have it delivered to your door. www.MoscowExpatLife.ru

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Community Services Business Clubs/Organisations

Polish Business Club President: Alexander Janeczek CCIR (Camera di Commercio Italo-Russa) Director: Marisa Florio Web site: www.ccir.it/ccir/

The Polish Business Club was created 15 years ago to develop contacts between Polish and Russian companies, and to provide business support; such as help in renting an apartment, how to get medical help and advice on where to go in your free time. The Club’s main mission is business development in Russia.

British Business Club President: Don Scott Web site: www.britishclub.ru

Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through.

The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times.

We organise and attend a lot of trade exhibitions each year and help all of our members establish themselves in Russia.

Canadian Eurasia Russia Business Association (CERBA) President: Lou Naumovski, National Chairman, Canada Eurasia Russia Business Association, Vice President and General Director Moscow Office, Kinross Gold Corporation Co-President: Nathan A. Hunt, Founder, Chairman, CERBA Moscow, Canada Eurasia Russia Business Association Web site: www.cerbanet.org Moscow Chapter Contacts: alex@cerbanet.org; radmila@cerbanet.org Phone: 7 (495) 7621240 Italian Business Club (ITAM) President: Giovanni Stornante

The Irish Business Club Chairperson: Avril Conway Web site: www.moscowirishclub.ru

The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals.

It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends. We try and help in these respects as much as we can.

We organise social and professional events for the Italian community. We bring Italians together, help their integration when they move to the big city, facilitate the exchange of ideas, experience and opportunities between the Italian and other business communities.

The Canada Eurasia Russia Business Association has a network of seven chapters located in Moscow, Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa, Calgary Vancouver and Almaty, and a membership base of over 200 corporations and individuals in a wide range of sectors. As an association, CERBA provides an extensive network of contacts with frequent networking events, informative seminars on pertinent topics in the Eurasian market for Canadian companies, an annual National Conference, a quarterly printed Newsletter, committees of the Canada-Russia Business Council (CRBC), access to annual trade missions, as well as market intelligence, advocacy on government policy, and active, Canada-focused sector committees.

www.cerbanet.org

The WCR e.V. – Wirtschaftsclub Russia originally founded as an umbrella organisation for German speaking business people in Russia, welcomes all guest who are interested in cross border networking. We also speak English and Russian, and joined the initiative NEW SILK ROAD. A Sustainable Exchange-platform based on traditional trade Values · Trust · Responsibility · Respect Closing the distance of economy, culture and society between Asia and Europe. If you share our values support us building bridges according to our motto: ‘Creating Opportunities Across Eurasian Borders’

Wirtschaftsclub Russland CEO: Dr Karin von Bismark Web site: www.wirtschaftsclubrussland.org

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Community Services Women’s Clubs/Associations The Swedish Women’s Educational Association (SWEA)

International Women’s Club of Moscow (IWC)

SWEA is an international organisation, with 7,500 members in 34 countries all over the world. The fact that the 90-member strong Moscow chapter fits into a large international organisation, has many advantages.

The main purpose of the SWEA in Moscow is to act as a network for members, to support Swedish culture and Swedish languages. The majority of SWEA’s 90 members in Russia are accompanying spouses, even though the trend is that more and more women come here by themselves for career reasons working for Swedish companies.

The American Women’s Organisation

The International Women’s Club of Moscow is a not-for-profit organisation which exists to promote friendship and cooperation between women and men of all nationalities. Explore our website to find out more about our events, how to join, and the charities we support.

Since 1993 the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, has provided support to expatriate women, and/or spouses, of all North American countries including the United States, Canada and Mexico. The aim of the organization is to provide social and cultural opportunities during your tenure here in Moscow. The members are very friendly, open and always willing to share their experiences. General meetings are held on the first and third Wednesday of each month and commence at 11:00 a.m. Newcomers are always welcomed and encouraged to attend any of our meetings. If you would like additional information on the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, please contact us at awomoscow@gmail.com.

President: Victoria Šeligo, the wife of The Ambassador of Slovenia.

Web Site: www.iwcmoscow.ru

The American Women’s Organisation President: Judy Peacock

The German’s Women’s Group This is a new German-speaking group which organises meetings for German and Austrian women.

Meetings are held every second Wednesday. The group supports newcomers and those who have been here longer.

Founder: Monika Michaely Email: info@ deutschegruppemoskau.com

Since 1993 the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, has provided support to expatriate women, and/or spouses, of all North American countries including the United States, Canada and Mexico. The aim of the organization is to provide social and cultural opportunities during their stay here in Moscow. The members are very friendly, open and always willing to share their experiences.

General meetings are usually held on the first and third Wednesday of each month at 11:00 a.m. Newcomers are always welcomed and encouraged to attend any of our meetings. If you would like additional information on the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, please contact us at awomoscow@gmail.com

De Tulpen

Presidents: Olya Kalmykova and Desiree Dekker Web Site: www.nlclubmoskou.nl

President: Cecilia Oskarsson Web Site: www.moskva.swea.org

The Main goal of the Tulips is to provide a social platform for the Dutch speaking ladies in Moscow, do things of interest together and have fun! When you are abroad, one’s own culture becomes so much more important.

If anybody wants to connect with us, please find us on the Dutch Cub web site.

If people want to go and visit museums, they can do that one their own. But if they want to speak their mother tongue with other people here in Moscow, then here we are.

The British Women’s Club (BWC) BWC was set up in 2000. When British women arrive here they may need help and support from each other to understand basic things like where to shop for food, information about schools and to get to know other Brits. Mainly it is a help group, because it can be quite a shock settling here if you don’t speak Chairwoman: Russian. Women generally introduce Fariba Zoulfaghari themselves before they move to Web Site: Moscow. And we let the ladies know www.bwcmoscow.org.uk on what is going on in the city.

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Essential Information Emergency Phone Numbers Fire fighters 01 Police 02 Ambulance 03 Emergency Gas Service 04 Intercity phone calls 07 Information 09 Time (automatic clock) 100 Emergency rescue service 937-9911

Pharmacies (Apteki)

+7 495 937 6477

Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant.

American Medical Centers

What to do if you lose your passport

Medical help International SOS (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients)

(24 hours service) +7 495 933 7700

European Medical Center (French, British and American experts) +7 (495) 933 66 55 International crisis Line Tel: +7 926 1133373 This is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates in distress.

Available 08:00-23:00 daily.

In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can correctly pronounce your complete address in Russian.

Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your native language on the wall next to your phone.

Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency.

Note that in Russia there is difference between the police (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI).

The police are not responsible

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for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.

Your first step should be to contact the nearest consular department for your country of origin. You will also have to go to a police station in order to obtain an official form confirming the loss or theft of your travel documents. We recommend, however, that you contact your embassy or consulate first, as they may be able to help non-Russian speakers with the necessary paperwork. In the case of a child’s lost passport, both parents must appear with the child.

Once you have a new passport, take it, along with your plane ticket (if you do not have a return ticket, you will have to buy one before you are issued a new visa) and the police form to the company that issued your visa support documents.

If you have a copy of your lost visa, you should also provide it. If the agency refuses to help you (although it is their legal obligation to do so), then your consulate should tell you what to do.

Important:

For ease of processing we recommend that the police report states that your documents were lost, not stolen.

Essential Information Getting to Moscow’s Airports

The Aeroexpress train departs from the left hand side of Paveltskaya station. Single journey tickets come as flimsy paper receipts with bar codes in them. Don’t lose your ticket as you need it to get out of the station at the airport. Return tickets come as plastic cards. Tickets cost from 320 roubles. The journey takes 40-50 minutes, and they run reliably and regularly, every half an hour from 06:00-24:00. On the way home, this is a convenient way to beat the taxi mobs, however there is only the taxi if you arrive during the night. Leaving your car in the longstay car park costs 600-700 roubles a day depending on the season, although information on the airport’s site is not clear on this score.

Vnukova Airport

http://www.vnukovo.ru/eng/ 8 (495) 937-55-55 Getting there:

M

oscow is served by three major airports: Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo.

You can get a taxi (fares range between 1,200 and 2,300 roubles, and generally, the service is good. The operators speak English, but the drivers may not. A taxi back can also be booked, and this saves a lot of hassle and possible agro when dealing with the taxi drivers at arrivals. All 3 airports are now served by ‘Aeroexpress’ shuttle trains. The service is good but not 24 hours a day.

The three airports are: Sheremetyevo Airport http://www.svo.aero/en/ +7 495 578 6565 + 8 800 100 6565 + 7 495 956 4666 for flight information Sheremetyevo has become much more accessible thanks to the opening of the Aeroexpress from Byelorusskaya Station.

Aeroexpress costs 320 roubles and they leave every half an from 05:30-00:30. Long term parking costs 250 roubles a day according to the airport web site. If you are getting a taxi or driving your own car there during the day it is advisable to leave a minimum of two hours to get there from the centre.

Domodedovo Airport

http://www.domodedovo.ru +7 495 720 6666 for flight information Getting there:

1. By airport bus from Yugo Zapadnaya Metro. You need bus 611, 611с or 611ф, (611f) (express). You need to listen carefully to the pre-recorded stop announcements. Your stop is Airport Vnukovo. Busses run every 10 minutes or so the journey to the airport takes about 30 minutes.

You can also get a ‘marshrutka’, (mini-van taxi service) route 45 which will take you to the airport faster. Fare is 100 roubles plus 10 roubles for each piece of extra luggage.

2. From Metro Oktyabrskaya (the Circle Line) (subway) Route 705m ‘marshrutka’ runs between Metro Oktyabrskaya (Circle Line) and the Vnukovo airport. They take 35-40 minutes, although Moscow traffic is Moscow traffic, so at peak time leave at least an hour. Fare is 130 roubles plus another RUB 10 for every extra item of baggage.

3. By Aeroexpress Train From Metro Kievskaya (Metro) (exit to Kievsky Train Station).

Once out on the Train Station forecourt, go round the corner of the Station terminal building and a few yards down on your left-hand side you will see the entrance portico of the Vnukovo Aeroexpress Terminal. Tickets cost 320 roubles for standard fare, and can be bought on line, if you read Russian. The journey takes 40 minutes.

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Charity List of Charities Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with.

If you wish to list a charity in future issues, please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Kidsave Contact: Alexander Mzhelsky, +7 985 970 9019, a.mzhelsky@kidsave.org Kidsave® is a non-profit organization working in Russia since 1999. Our programs create strong and lasting connections between children and adults, with the goal of giving orphans and young people graduating from institutions opportunities to develop the skills necessary for a successful future. ________________________

Downside Up Contact: Elena Lubovina, Tel. +7 499 367 1000, +7 499 165 5536, lubovina@downsideup.org About 2,500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institutions with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early

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intervention and education programmes. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential. Downside Up invites you to help make life better for people with Down syndrome ________________________

Kitezh Contact: Katya Gurkina, +7 916 975 1603, kitezhcentre@ yandex.ru, www.kitezh.org/ en/index.php Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster families.

The aim is to create a developing environment for the education and care of orphans and children in crisis. The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300 km south west of Moscow, and the second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 km in the same direction. ________________________

Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’ Contact: info@metopenart. com, www.metopenart.com

Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities.

Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: • Music • Dramatic art • Choreography • Art Design • Poetry • Dramatic improvisation • Ethnic art The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for participants from Moscow and Moscow region.

Open Art has developed methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities. Open Art also organizes courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow. ________________________

and educational support for both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia.

The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions. ________________________

Diema’s Dream

Vera Hospice Charity Fund

Contact: +7 495 942 4003, sa5557@yandex.ru, sergey@ddfund.ru Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical,

Contact: Maria Bakhtina bakhtina@hospicefund. ru, Ilya Kaukin kaukin@ hospicefund.ru Tel +7-965-372-57-72 website: www.hospicefund.ru

Moscow Animals Contact: info@ moscowanimals.org, www.moscowanimals.org Moscow Animals – devoted to the welfare of homeless animals. To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or email. ________________________

Charity List of Charities Since 2006, Vera Hospice Charity Fund is the only nonprofit organization in Russia supporting palliative and hospice care for children, adults and elderly.

‘Vera’ fundraises to assist hospices in Moscow and other regions of the country.

By 2015 the total number of hospices under the care of ‘Vera’ has reached 40. The foundation also provides direct aid to over 300 terminally ill children and their families and finances the work of in-home care units for them. Other programs include social and educational support programs for hospice employees, hospice care awareness, and volunteer fostering activities. ________________________

legislature and provide full financial and activity reports. ______________________

United Way Contact: + 7 (495) 780 9718, info@unitedway.ru

Contact: +7 (495) 500 40 42, www.nastavniki.org/ru

The Fund supports charities offering programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: • children at risk • disabled (children and adults) • refugees and homeless • elderly people Our mission is to foster responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems. The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations.

Charities receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest possible degree.

In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian

Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia is a part of Big Brothers Big Sisters International, one of the most efficient mentoring programs for children. In Moscow BBBS helps children living in institutional care (orphanages) and disadvantaged children. A volunteer becomes a Big Brother or a Big Sister to a child, visits him or her once a week for at least one year.

Studies show that children who have a mentor have higher self-esteem, are more stable emotionally, have better motivation to study and show more initiative. Currently there are 162 matches in Moscow.

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MPC Social Services Web Site: www.mpcss.org MPC Social Services is one of the longest serving charitable organizations in Moscow.

It is a registered Russian charitable organization and an established 501(c)3 non-profit in the United States that addresses poverty and hunger, and provides medical care and education for Moscow’s poor, including women, children, families, pensioners, economic migrants, and refugees. ________________________

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Charity List of Charities

of Russian to become a Big Brother or Big Sister because the children don’t speak English very well. ________________________

Nastenka Contact: +7 (495) 980-5377, +7 (495) 585-41-01, www.nastenka.ru The charitable foundation helping children with cancer ‘Nastenka’ was founded in 2002. The main objective of the foundation isto increase the quality of diagnostics and treatment of children with oncological diseases, as well as to revive the tradition of charity in Russia.

For 11 years, the foundation has helped thousands of sick children and purchased large number of expensive modern medical equipment for a hospital: two ventilators, an x-ray machine, a dialysis machine, blood separator and much more. ________________________

To Russia With Love

homes, are likely to harm children and leave them ill prepared for life in the outside world. Ideally, all of these institutions should be phased out as soon as possible by means of extended family support, fostering, the provision of small family units, and lastly, adoption. However due to the number of children in State care in Russia, our immediate goal is to secure for each child, a long term stable solution whilst working side by side with the local administration.

To Russia With Love is privileged to be allowed act as a guardian to many children without parents, who live in these very institutions. We work to build children’s self confidence, assist them to reach their full potential to become strong adults, successful parents, thus breaking the cycle of abandonment and in turn go forward as role models in society. ________________________

Contact: www. torussiawithlove.ie

To Children With Love

The very best of institutions, orphanages, large childrens

To Children with Love’ or ‘Детям с Любовью’ was

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www.tochildrenwithlove.ru/en

founded in 2009 to focus on fundraising in Russia, in the belief that the best and the most sustainable initiatives should and can emerge locally. With a board composed of Moscowbased trustees, a celebrity patron and a growing base of corporate sponsors, the charity has, since 2009, worked hard to establish itself as a unique entity in the world of Russian children’s charities. ________________________

BIG Change Charity Contact: http://bigchange.ru/ en/about/. Or call Big Change at +7 - (499) 317-44-44 BIG Change Charity is a Moscow charity that provides individualized education and training in life skills to teens and young adults who have lived for years in orphanages.

Big Change helps their students: - prepare for vocational school or university - choose a vocation and find a job - broaden horizons, interests, relationships - become productive members of society

- live full and independent lives. ________________________

Children’s Hospital Fund at Speransky Pediatric Hospital № 9.

Contact: +7 499 256 64 44 (office); +7 916 117 3215 (mobile). www.childhospital.ru The Children’s Hospital Fund was founded in 2001 to support Russia’s Biggest Pediatric Burns Center at Speransky Hospital, Moscow. The fund provides medical equipment and materials for skin grafting and prevention of burn scarring.

This NGO is running a pioneering psycho-social program, vital in cases of changed appearance or bereavement. The fund is supported by well-known businesses, banks and charitable organizations, including Moscow expat women’s organizations.

The European Burns Association recognizes the achievements of the fund.

The fund needs sponsors’ help to continue its charitable programs!

Essential Information Paying for your mobile telephone at a terminal

There are many different makes and models of pay machines which handle mobile phone payments in use in Moscow, however most of them work in the same way.

Step 1.

Identify the service you need: The first ‘home’ screen will ask you what kind of services you want. The Russian words: ‘ ОПЛАТА УСЛУГ’ (payment for services) are what you want.

Step 2.

Identify the service you want: You will be presented by an array of services which indicate the various services which the company operating the terminal has signed up for. Fortunately, to keep things simple, the logos for the most popular mobile telephone companies are displayed on the top row.

Step 3.

Having identified your mobile telephone ‘operator’ by its logo, you will then be asked to key in your telephone number. Having done this, you hit the button which says ‘ВПЕРЕД’ (NEXT). On most terminals this is coloured orange, but make sure you don’t inadvertently press any other buttons which may download various entertainment programmes onto your phone.

Step 4.

Pay. You insert notes into the machine and the amount you have paid comes up on screen minus commission. You then hit the button: ОПЛАТИТЬ (PAY).

That’s it!

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