TASTE&FLAIR MAY 2021 ISSUE No 137 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 137 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination Country picnic, spring flavours, taste of travel, heritage, award-winning architecture & design

MAY 2021

122,Msida Valley, B'Kara

Papadatos Sofas upper

e l eg a n c e c a n o n ly b e s i l e n t. t h i s va l u e h a s t u r n e d i n to t h e i n s p i r at i o n f o r u p p e r . i t i s a n ot h e r w i s e s t r a i g h t– l i n e d p r o d u c t m ot i vat e d b y t h e n e e d o f p eo p l e to l i v e o n t h e i r c o u c h a n d e n j oy i t s c o m f o r t a n y t i m e o f t h e day. e m p h a s i s h a s b e e n g i v e n o n e d g i n g d e ta i l s a n d f i n i s h e s t h at m a k e i t b e a p e r f ec t ly m atc h i n g to t h e u r b a n a e s t h e t i c s o fa . l eg s i n b l ac k c h r o m e a n d s e at i n g o o s e f e at h e r .

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u p p e r s o fa | pa r a l l e l low ta b l e

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL

MAY 2021

Welcome L

onger evenings and warmer weather have brought with them a cautious optimism. It’s early days, but after months of uncertainty and weeks spent mostly indoors, it’s starting to feel like a return to normality is possible with more time spent (socially distanced) outdoors. For this issue of Taste&Flair, Claire Borg harvested the seasonal crop from her garden and filled a picnic basket with homely fare that can be enjoyed as much at home as in an uncrowded space out in the countryside. Michael Diacono picked one key ingredient and mixed traditional recipes with creative flourishes to cook up five different dishes that will inspire home chefs. With travel plans on hold and so little space in which to move around, food and drink can offer a flavour of somewhere else. Amy and Mandy Mallia made up a series of snacks, sweets, and drink that evoke memories of happy times and a taste of the wider world. Andrew Azzopardi celebrated a landmark birthday at home with his nearest and dearest and found inspiration in a bottle of wine for a feature about touring California’s wine country. The national heritage NGO Din l-Art Ħelwa created its annual architectural heritage awards “to encourage architectural excellence in a Maltese context and the rehabilitation and reuse of old buildings, and to recognize the dedicated work of those active in the field of restoration”. To mark its 55th anniversary this year, the NGO launched the Judge Maurice Caruana Curran Award for the best overall project across all categories. We feature the first-ever winner of the prestigious award in this issue, along with three other projects selected from among this year’s series of award winners. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Claire Borg’s Mascarpone and Strawberry Cheesecake. See feature starting on page 12. Photograph: Claire Borg

ISSUE 137 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination Country picnic, spring flavours, taste of travel, heritage, award-winning architecture & design

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Claude Monet's The luncheon (1873) was presented at the second impressionist exhibition in 1986. The painting is now part of the Musée d'Orsay's collection

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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T&F CONTENTS

p40

p12

CONTENTS Food & drink

Country picnic Claire Borg’s homely, seasonal spread

Architecture, interior design, and heritage Four of the winners in the XV edition of the Din l-Art Ħelwa Awards for Architectural Heritage

Phoenicia Spa Judge Maurice Caruana Curran Award – significant contribution to architectural and design excellence Prix d’Honneur – major regeneration project

Travels in the kitchen Mandy & Amy Mallia evoke a taste of time and place

The quintet Michael Diacono’s inspiration for home chefs

Palazzo Manresa Prix d’Honneur – restoration and conservation

California dreaming Andrew Azzopardi on touring the West coast’s wine country

p72

Palazzo de La Salle Chapel Prix d’Honneur – rehabilitation and reuse of buildings

The King George Diploma – rehabilitation and reuse of buildings

p68 10

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F OUTDOORS

COUNTRY PICNIC Mellow days and lengthening evenings in uncrowded spaces are perfect for picnics. Claire Borg cooked and photographed this gorgeous spread and served it in a field of wild flowers.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

OUTDOORS T&F

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F OUTDOORS

Galette (aka Gozitan ftira) These can be enjoyed hot out of the oven, or at room temperature later in the day. One of my picnickers disliked fresh cheese so I knocked together a tuna variant.

Makes 2 large or 6 small ftiras Preparation and cooking: 40-45 minutes

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

OUTDOORS T&F

YOU WILL NEED

1Kg rough puff pastry, ready-made PEA AND SULTANA FILLING

6 fresh ġbejniet 4 tablespoons grated cheese like Parmesan or similar black pepper 1 egg 200g shelled fresh peas 200g sultanas TUNA FILLING

2 cans of tuna 1 medium-sized onion, peeled and sliced 1 bulb fresh garlic, roughly chopped 1 ½ red peppers, deseeded and sliced 2 handfuls of fresh peas a handful of fresh basil and mint leaves

1. Drain the ġbejniet and keep

them in the fridge for 2-3 days, to make sure that the excess whey oozes out and they don’t make the pies soggy. 2. Preheat the oven to 210°C. 3. Using a fork, mash the fresh cheese in a bowl, then beat the egg into it, season with black pepper, then finally mix in the peas, Parmesan and sultanas. Set the bowl aside. 4. In a separate bowl, mix together the tuna, sliced onion, fresh basil and mint, roughly chopped garlic, sliced red pepper and fresh peas, 5. Roll out the dough and

divide it into six equal portions for mini-galettes, or 2 portions for large galettes. Top half of the pieces of dough with the cheese filling, and the other half with the tuna filling, leaving a wide margin all around

6. Fold over the edges of

the pastry and bake the galettes in the preheated oven until golden both on top and bottom.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F OUTDOORS

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

OUTDOORS T&F

Strawberry and Greek yoghurt cupcakes Made with sunflower oil, rather than butter, and laced with rich, creamy yogurt and strawberries, these cupcakes are a mouthful of spring sunshine.

Preparation and cooking: 40-45 minutes Makes 12

YOU WILL NEED

200g flour 200g sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 eggs 150g Greek yoghurt 150g sunflower oil ¼ vanilla pod scraped 12 strawberries

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C. Wash and hull

the strawberries. Line a cupcake tin with paper cases and put a strawberry into each one.

2. Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl, then mix in the sugar. 3. In another bowl, beat the eggs together with the sunflower oil, and the yoghurt. Scrape in the ¼ vanilla pod. Tip in the dry mixture and fold it in. 4. Divide the mixture between the cupcake moulds and bake in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes. Remove the cupcakes from the oven and let them cool in their tin for a few minutes, then remove them and let them cool completely on a wire rack.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F OUTDOORS

Mascarpone and strawberry cheesecake This easy-to-make, no-cook cheesecake is the perfect way to round off a picnic. Make it a day ahead and let it chill in the fridge overnight. I used a foil base to save on washing up afterwards.

Preparation: 20 minutes, excluding chilling time Serves 6

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OUTDOORS T&F

FOR THE BASE

250g Digestive biscuits 100g butter FOR THE FILLING

300g mascarpone 200g whipping cream 3 tablespoons icing sugar zest of one small lemon juice of ½ a lemon 1 punnet fresh strawberries lemon jelly (optional)

1. First, make the base.

Crush the Digestive biscuits into rough crumbs.

2. Cut the butter into small cubes and melt it in a medium-sized heavy-bottomed pan over a low heat. Stir it gently as it melts and don’t allow it to boil. 3. Remove the pan from the heat and tip in the crushed biscuits. Stir the mixture well so that the crumbs don’t clump together. 4. Scoop the mixture into a 10” pie tray and pat it down into an even layer. Chill it in the freezer for 30 minutes. 5. Whip the cream, icing sugar,

and lemon juice together until the mixture stiffens, and fold in the lemon zest.

6. Lightly beat the mascarpone

until it’s soft and mix it into the cream. Pour the mixture onto the biscuit base and level it out, using a palette or the back of a spoon.

7. Wash and hull the strawberries and cut the larger ones in half. Arrange them over the top of the marsacarpone layer in concentric circles, starting from the outside edge and working your way in. 8. For a shiny finish melt some

lemon jelly with hot water and let it cool (follow the pack instructions, but use half the quantity of water), then brush it over the strawberries. 9. Keep the cheesecake

chilled until serving time.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F OUTDOORS

Fresh ġbejna and broad bean soda bread Makes 2

YOU WILL NEED:

1 tablespoon oil 375g plain flour 125g wholemeal flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 200g twice-shelled broad beans 90g sunflower seeds 1 teaspoon honey 250g fresh ġbejniet 250ml milk oats or pumpkin seeds to sprinkle on top

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C

and line 2x 450g loaf tins (or a single 1Kg tin) with baking paper.

2. Blend the milk and ġbejniet

together until smooth. Add the honey and oil and mix well. 3. In a separate bowl, mix together the plain and wholemeal flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt, and stir in the broad beans and sunflower seeds. 4. Pour the wet mixture into the dry mix and fold them together until well combined. 5. Pour the mixture into the

loaf tins, sprinkle with oats or pumpkin seeds, and bake in the preheated oven for about 50-60 min or until an inserted skewer comes out clean.

6. Remove the loaves from the

oven and let them cool slightly in their tins. Then turn them out onto a wire rack and let them cool down completely.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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T&F OUTDOORS

Risoni pasta salad with pulled chicken and fresh peas This is deceptively simple to make but very tasty. If you’re making this for a picnic, keep the chicken chilled and mix it with the other ingredients just before serving.

Preparation and cooking: 60-90 minutes Serves 6-8

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OUTDOORS T&F

FOR THE PULLED CHICKEN

300g chicken breast 1 small onion, peeled and halved 1 carrot peeled and cut in 4 2 celery sticks ½ a lemon 2 bay leaves 1 stock cube 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 100ml white wine 1 litre water FOR THE SALAD

500g risoni pasta 300g freshly shelled peas 100g pumpkin seeds, toasted in dry pan 1 can of sweet corn, drained and rinsed zest of 1 small lemon fresh herbs like mint and parsley, washed and finely chopped ½ a small broccoli, boiled and finely chopped 6 tablespoons of sweet chilli sauce 6 tablespoons of olive oil salt and pepper

1. First, prepare the chicken.

Place all the ingredients in a pot, bring it to a gentle simmer and let it cook slowly for 40-60 minutes.

2. Drain the water and use two forks to pull the chicken meat into shreds. It is easier to do this while it is still warm. Set it aside. 3. Boil the pasta according to pack instructions, drain the cooking water, rinse the pasta and let it cool. 4. Mix the pasta with the other salad ingredients and store the salad in the fridge, unless you are serving it at once. 5. Just before serving, mix

the pulled chicken with the rest of the pasta salad. Season to taste and serve.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F OUTDOORS

Broad bean and avocado ‘guacamole’ Make this with freshly peeled, juicy beans, the youngest you can find. Their taste combines well with the taste of avocado and lime.

Preparation and cooking: 40 minutes Serves 4-6

YOU WILL NEED

200g twice-peeled broad beans 6 cloves of garlic olive oil salt and pepper 1 small onion, peeled and very finely chopped 1 lime 1 small tomato, peeled, deseeded and finely chopped 1 avocado, peeled and stone removed some fresh mint leaves, washed and finely chopped some fresh coriander, washed and finely chopped

1. Place the garlic, broad

beans, a drizzle of olive oil and a cup of water in a small pot. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes.

2. Discard the excess juices and roughly mash the mixture with a fork. 3. In a large bowl, mash the avocado, then mix in the tomato, finely chopped fresh herbs, onion and the cooked broad beans. 4. Mix well and add some olive oil if the mixture is too thick. 5. Season with lime

juice. Mix well. Serve this with taco chips.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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Graphite Grey Is Here NEFF home appliances by BSH are much more than household appliances: they are active partners in the kitchen for chefs, innovators and lovers of food wishing to pamper their senses with their culinary creations. The NEFF collection is composed of unique features, sophisticated design and intelligent functions. Now NEFF presents its exclusive built-in appliances in a new, trending colour: Graphite Grey.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

Sophistication at every level Ovens and compact appliances, warming drawers and built-in coffee machines form a harmonious optical unit: their edges, apertures and handles are designed in a dark graphite tone –keeping with the current residential trend, in which darker colours are used to create a feeling of richness. NEFF devices also look a touch more mysterious and attractive due to the dark grey. This makes for perfect unison between kitchen fronts and appliances. In addition, the dark grey is so neutral and versatile that it fits into virtually any kitchen -instilling depth and character to the façade of the space. “An open floor plan is shaping more and more living spaces. There is a growing demand for the harmonious coexistence of furniture and appliances. With the NEFF Collection in Graphite-Grey, we offer a high-quality look that convinces with its reduced light reflections and fits into contemporary kitchen designs. Away from the appearance of a work tool to elegant home furniture.” – Ralf Grobleben, Head of NEFF Design.

PROMOTION T&F

With the NEFF Collection in Graphite-Grey, we offer a high-quality look that convinces with its reduced light reflections and fits into contemporary kitchen designs. New presentation, same values While the NEFF Collection presents itself in a new way, fans of NEFF’s core features can rest assured that the iconic features for which the brand is so famous will remain. The Slide&Hide® door is a true classic and will continue to define NEFF’s state of the art ovens, now in Graphite-Grey. The rotating handle and fully retractable door will retain what they promise: full freedom of movement around the oven, easy access to cooking materials and flexibility during installation.

CircoTherm® hot air developed by NEFF and proven to this day continues to ensure particularly uniform cooking and baking results. You can evenly cook completely different dishes at one time, using all oven levels, without any intermingling flavours. This hot air seals food quickly, retaining moisture and preventing flavour transfer. This works by drawing air in from the oven via a powerful stainless steel fan. It then heats up the air and forces it right back into the oven cavity through strategically placed ducts in

the rear wall. As a result, the desired temperature is reached promptly and is distributed more evenly throughout the oven. If you have a passion for cooking and a penchant for fine living, visit Oxford House to learn more about NEFF appliances – along with their sister brand Bosch –and how they can elevate your kitchen to the next level. The team will guide you as to which appliances will best suit your kitchen, depending on your individual cooking preferences. n

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ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F CUISINE

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

CUISINE T&F

TRAVEL THE WORLD IN SEVEN FLAVOURS Tastes that evoke memories of time and place are comforting, particularly when they’re associated with travelling for pleasure. Get a taste of the wider world with snacks, sweets, and drink. Food and drink: Mandy and Amy Mallia Styling and photography: Megan Mallia

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F CUISINE

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

CUISINE T&F

A TRIFLE BRITISH Preparation and cooking • Serves 6

“The traditional British trifle originated in England in the 18th century, evolving into different variations over the years. This recipe is one my mother used to make. Tasting her version of the British trifle invariably reminds me of the many times we enjoyed it as a dessert in my childhood home many years ago, with us children often picking the “decorations” from the top when we thought nobody was looking. You could omit the whisky should you prefer, though it does give trifle its kick. We used homemade strawberry jam (see Taste&Flair issue 130) for this recipe, though any good shop-bought jam would do.You could bake the sponge fingers (use the sponge recipe in Taste&Flair issue 129) or use good quality ready-made sponge cake. I prefer this because it’s the way my mother used to make trifle. You can prepare this in a large serving bowl, but individual portions are best if you are serving more than a handful of people. Allow the custard to cool properly if using individual glasses, rather than a heatproof bowl. This version tastes good once cooled, but is at its most delicious when chilled – preferably overnight.” MANDY

YOU WILL NEED:

¼ to ½ a glass sherry (or whisky, if you want a more spirited dessert) 1l thick, homemade custard 3 tablespoons cocoa powder 4 tablespoons golden caster sugar 6 tablespoons strawberry jam Enough sponge cake or sponge fingers for two ½ cm layers 1 large punnet of strawberries

1. Divide the custard into two equal portions and

set it aside. Wash, hull, and halve the strawberries. You’ll need to cut the larger ones into thick slices.

2. Trim the sponge cake into pieces ½ cm thick (or use sponge fingers) and put a layer into the serving glasses. Brush the sponge layer with a good splash of sherry (or whisky). 3. Warm the jam in a microwave oven for a few seconds until slightly runny, then brush it liberally on the sponge lining. Top this with a layer of strawberries. 4. Warm one portion of custard in a heavy-bottomed pan and stir, using a balloon whisk. (Don’t let it overheat) 5. Pour the warm custard evenly over into

the sponge-lined serving bowls.

6. Add another of sponge cake over the custard layer.

Brush it liberally with sherry (or whisky), then with the remaining jam. Add a layer of strawberries.

7. Warm up the second portion of custard in a clean, heavybased pot. Using a balloon whisk, mix in the 3 tablespoons of golden caster sugar and 3 tablespoons of cocoa powder. Add more cocoa if you prefer a darker chocolate taste. Keep whisking until all ingredients are well-combined. 8. Allow the chocolate custard to cool slightly –

whisking again if necessary, to prevent a skin from forming – then pour it over the strawberry layer. Top the chocolate custard with strawberry halves

9. Allow the mini-trifles to cool for around 20

minutes, then filled glasses in the fridge to chill for a few hours, preferably overnight. If chilled, the trifle will keep for around two days.

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T&F CUISINE

French tomato and Dijon mustard tartlets Preparation and cooking: 40-45 minutes Makes 4 tartlets

“These tartlets are put together in minutes, and can be served warm or cold. They make a delicious starter or picnic food with a difference.You can substitute cherry tomatoes with sliced tomato, but cherry tomatoes work better.” AMY

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

YOU WILL NEED:

1 sheet of ready-made puff pastry 4 tablespoons of Dijon mustard 60ml olive oil 350g cherry tomatoes, washed and halved thyme leaves, preferably fresh salt and pepper, to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C and

grease a 4-tartlet baking pan.

2. Using a pastry cutter or a

small inverted saucer as a guide, cut 4 rounds of pastry and use them to line the tartlet pan.

3. Divide the Dijon mustard between the rounds of pastry in the pan, spreading it evenly over the bases. Distribute the tomato halves evenly among the tartlets. 4. Sprinkle a little bit of thyme over each tartlet, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle olive oil over the tomatoes. 5. Place the filled tartlet pan in

the pre-heated oven, and bake for around 30-35 minutes until the pastry turns lightly golden.

6. Allow the tartlets to cool slightly

in the pan before removing them. Serve warm, garnished with fresh sprigs of thyme leaves.

CUISINE T&F

LIMONCELLO

Sicilian sunshine in a bottle Preparation: 30 minutes • Makes 2 bottles

“No holiday to Sicily seems complete without buying a bottle or two of good limoncello to take home. This is an easy way of making it from scratch. While using pure alcohol is best, it is not legally available on the market in Malta, so we have substituted it – successfully – with strong vodka. The limoncello will store well for around a year.” MANDY

YOU WILL NEED

6 unwaxed lemons, preferably Sicilian ones 700ml vodka 500g sugar 400ml water

1. Wash and finely zest the lemons,

ensuring that all pith is removed. Place the lemon zest into a sterilised jar large enough to hold all the ingredients, and pour in the vodka.

2. Cover the jar and let the mixture infuse at room temperature for a week. Shake the jar daily. 3. At the end of the week, prepare the syrup. Pour 400ml of water into a pot, add 500g of sugar, then bring the mixture to a boil, stirring, over a medium heat. 4. Remove the pot from the heat, and allow the syrup to cool completely. 5. Once the syrup has cooled down,

pour it a little at a time into the jar with the vodka and lemon zest, stirring and tasting it after each addition until it tastes as strong as you like it.

6. Seal the jar and let the mixture

infuse at room temperature for around two weeks.

7. Strain the limoncello into clean, sealable bottles. 8. Store the limoncello in the fridge if you

like it chilled, or place it in the freezer before serving if you prefer it ice-cold. ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F CUISINE

Greek lamb and feta cheese balls Preparation and cooking: 35 minutes • Makes around 25 pieces

“These delicious, lightlyspiced lamb and feta cheese balls can be served on their own as finger-food, or made a little larger and served with rice as a main dish. The mixture may be prepared ahead and the uncooked meat balls kept in the fridge overnight. Don’t leave out the cinnamon. It’s what gives the meatballs a very particular taste that will have you wanting more.” AMY

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

YOU WILL NEED:

2 cloves of garlic, peeled 2 slices of white bread, lightly toasted, and crusts removed ½ teaspoon of cinnamon 1 or 2 tablespoons of fresh thyme (or a sprinkling of dried thyme) 2 tablespoons of fresh parsley, chopped 75g feta cheese 500g minced lamb a drizzle of olive oil, for frying salt and pepper, to taste

1. Line a baking tray with greaseproof

paper, and preheat the oven to 180°C.

2. Place the lightly-toasted bread, slightly shredded, into a blender with the garlic, salt, pepper, herbs and cinnamon. Blitz for a few seconds until well mixed and the bread and herbs are finely shredded.

3. Put the lamb mince and the feta cheese into a mixing bowl, and add the blitzed mixture. Use your hands to mix the ingredients together until well combined. 4. Use a tablespoon to scoop out around 25g of mixture (roughly a tablespoonful), roll into a ball, and set it aside. Repeat the process until all the mixture has been used up. 5. When you have prepared all the

meatballs, heat a large pan and lightly grease it. Put the meatballs in the pan and fry them, turning them regularly, until lightly and evenly browned all over.

6. Remove the pan from the heat,

and place the meatballs on a lined baking tray. Bake them in the preheated oven for around 5 minutes until cooked right through. Serve hot.

CUISINE T&F

American fudge Preparation and cooking: 10 minutes • Makes 16-20 pieces

“There’s no fudging around with this recipe. It’s long been a family favourite.” AMY

YOU WILL NEED:

2 tablespoons of cocoa powder 2 tablespoons of butter 125ml milk 300g icing sugar

1. Line a loaf tin with

greaseproof paper.

2. Put the ingredients into a heavy-bottomed pot and mix together with a wooden spoon. 3. Heat the pot on a low heat, stirring the mixture, without letting it boil until the sugar has dissolved. 4. When the sugar has dissolved, brush the sides of the pot down with a wet pastry brush, to clean off any splashes. 5. Raise the heat and

bring the mixture to the boil without stirring.

6. Let the pot boil for around 6-8

minutes, until soft-ball stage. To test, drop a small amount of the mixture into a glass of chilled water and leave it for a few moments. It should form a soft, pliable ball when it’s done.

7. When the mixture has reached soft-ball stage, remove it from the heat and allow it to cool slightly. 8. Now, beat the mixture vigorously with an electric whisk until the fudge starts to thicken and becomes matte in appearance. 9. Pour the warm fudge into the

lined loaf tin, flattening with the back of a spoon. Allow it to set, then cut it into small cubes.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F CUISINE

Gulab Jamun

a taste of India Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes, plus overnight chilling • Makes 16 pieces

“I am not quite sure how to describe this sweet, but I do know that it is delicious to eat. It is a rich dessert, so although the portions might look small, they are the perfect end to a spicy meal. The gulab jamun can be stored in the fridge for up to two days.” AMY

FOR THE GULAB (SYRUP)

FOR THE JAMUN (PASTRIES)

1 teaspoon rose water 1 tablespoon lemon juice 4 whole cloves 4 cardamom pods, crushed 400ml water 450g sugar

a pinch of salt ½ teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon baking powder 4 tablespoons fresh milk 6 tablespoons heavy cream 40g semolina 150g skimmed milk powder 750ml sunflower oil, for deep frying

1. Line a baking tray

8. Roll a tablespoon of dough between

with baking paper.

2. Put all the syrup ingredients except for the rose water - into a pan. Heat, stirring occasionally, over a medium-to-high heat, until the syrup reaches boiling point. 3. Lower the temperature, then simmer the syrup for about 5 minutes, until a little bit of it pressed between the back of two teaspoons forms thin threads when they are gently pulled apart. 4. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the rose water and stir it in. Cover the pan and set it aside, keeping it warm. 5. Soak the semolina in the fresh

milk for around 30 minutes.

6. Whisk the baking powder, salt,

cardamom and skimmed milk powder together in a large bowl. Sift the mixture onto the baking sheet, transfer it back to the bowl, then repeat, breaking up any lumps that may remain in the sieve.

7. Make a well in the centre of the mixture in the bowl, pour in the milksemolina mix and add the cream. Mix gently with your fingertips to form a stiff, sticky dough, adding a little extra cream if the mixture is too dry. It is important to not mix the ingredients too enthusiastically, because the result will be jamuns which are too dense.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

your hands to form a jamun roughly 2.5cm in size. The heat of your hands should help it form a smooth surface. If not, put a dot or two of leftover cream on your hands to help the rolling process. Place the rolled jamun on the lined baking sheet, then repeat with the rest of the dough.

9. Heat the sunflower oil in a

large deep pan until it reaches boiling point. Meanwhile, line a plate with kitchen paper to later absorb oil from the fried jamun.

10. Put half the dough balls into the oil

with a slotted spoon, turning regularly to ensure that they cook evenly and do not stick to the bottom of the pan. Once the first lot of jamun have cooked, remove them from the oil and place them on the plate lined with kitchen paper for a few seconds. Put the cooked dough balls in the still-warm gulab, replacing the lid when ready.

11. Fry the second lot of dough balls, place them on the kitchen paper to drain, then add them to the gulab with the rest of the jamun. 12. Let the jamun soak in the gulab – covered and at room temperature – for at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight, which will make them taste better. 13. Warm the jamun on a low

heat before serving.

CUISINE T&F

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F CUISINE

Ricciarelli Preparation and cooking: 30-32 minutes, including 15 minutes chilling time. Makes 12-15 pieces

“Ricciarelli remind me of my maternal grandparents, who gave my siblings and myself each a box of chocolatecoated ones at Eastertime. They were a real treat at a time when anything good and chocolatey was quite a rarity in Malta. Traditional non-chocolate-coated ricciarelli can be found in abundance in most confectionary shops in Siena, where they originated. This is our personal take on the classic recipe, made with tangerine zest rather than the traditional orange zest. If you can resist eating them, they will store well in an airtight container for around a week.” MANDY

YOU WILL NEED:

1 egg white zest of one tangerine 125g granulated sugar 150g ground almonds around 75g icing sugar, for coating

1. Line a baking tray with baking paper,

and preheat the oven to 180°C.

2. Sift the icing sugar into a small bowl or plate. Put all the other ingredients into a separate bowl, and mix well until a dough is formed. 3. Cover the dough, then chill it in the fridge for around 15 minutes. When the dough has chilled properly, break it into pieces weighing around 20g each (around the size of a small walnut). 4. Roll each piece of dough between the palms of your hands, and flatten it into an oblong around 2cm by 5cm. 5. Dip the dough pieces into the icing

sugar, coating them evenly, then place them on the lined baking tray. Bake them in the preheated oven for around 10-12 minutes, until very slightly golden.

6. Remove the tray from the oven

and allow the ricciarelli to cool completely in the baking tray.

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T&F IN SEASON

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IN SEASON T&F

Quintet

THE

Mixing tradition with creativity, Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, cooked up five recipes with seasonal lamb.

Styling and photography: Brian Grech • Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi

Even now that the weather’s warming up and we’re all looking forward to being outdoors, there are still times when we prefer having a cosy night at home with our nearest and dearest. Spring lamb is a seasonal choice, so here are five recipes to inspire all you home chefs.

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Lamb Tagine I happen to have a clay tagine which I use both on the stove and in the oven. It really did not cost that much to buy as it is a basic everyday one. Personally, I feel that this recipe cooked in the tagine is better than if I had to prepare in a normal pot

Serves 4 • Preparation and cooking: 180 minutes Recommended wine: Considering Lebanon and Morocco are producing such good quality wines, it’s the perfect opportunity to pop open a Lebanese or Moroccan Cabernet sauvignon or Bordeaux blend

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IN SEASON T&F

YOU WILL NEED

800g lamb shoulder, cut into large 5cm cubes 16 dried apricots 2 tablespoons raisins 350ml warm water olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 2 large carrots, peeled and sliced thickly chili pepper, chopped (add as much as you like) 6 cloves 2 pieces of star anise 2 cinnamon sticks 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 sachet saffron 6 fresh tomatoes, diced 500ml vegetable or chicken stock 150g tinned chick peas fresh coriander, mint and parsley

1. Place the apricots and raisins in a small bowl, cover

them with the warm water and set the bowl aside.

2. Place your tagine on the heat and add enough olive oil to cover the bottom. Season the cubed lamb and fry the meat in batches to brown. Set the meat aside. 3. Now, turn on the oven and set it to 160°C

while you finish preparing the tagine.

4. Add the onion, garlic and carrots to the tagine and stir fry the mixture for 4 minutes. Add chili, cloves, star anise and cinnamon. Stir and cook for 2 minutes. 5. Add the tomato paste and cook out, then add the

saffron and chopped tomatoes. Mix well. Drain the apricots and raisins and add them to the tagine. Return the lamb to the tagine and add the stock. Season the mixture, cover the tagine with the lid and transfer it to the oven. Let it cook for 2 hours.

6. Now, remove the tagine from the over, add the

chickpeas, stir them in carefully and then cover the tagine again and put it back in the oven for 15 minutes.

7. Serve this topped with chopped fresh coriander, mint and parsley on steamed couscous.

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Pappardelle with a Lamb Ragu

You will need to cut the lamb into very small cubes. It is time consuming, but the rich and satisfying dish is worth the effort. The slow-cooked sauce may be served on polenta or gnocchi instead of pasta.

Serves 4 Preparation cooking: 180 minutes Recommended wine: The complexity and freshness of a Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ should bring out the flavours of the ragu, without being overbearing.

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YOU WILL NEED

800g lamb shoulder, cut into 1cm cubes 100g pancetta or guanciale, diced • extra-virgin olive oil 1 small onion, peeled and chopped • 2 sticks celery, chopped 2 carrots, peeled and diced • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 400ml dry red wine or Port • 4 fresh bay leaves 1 tablespoon picked fresh thyme leaves 6 crushed juniper berries • 100ml tomato paste 2 tins tomato pulp • 250ml water salt and pepper • 1-2 tablespoons sugar 500g pappardelle • 150g grated pecorino Romano

IN SEASON T&F

1. Cut the meat into small cubes. Heat about 80ml

extra-virgin olive oil in a heavy cooking pot. Add the lamb, season it and stir fry for about 10 minutes to brown the meat. Then, use a slotted spoon to transfer the browned meat to a dish and set it aside.

2. Add the pancetta or guanciale to the same pot and cook for a few minutes to colour the meat before adding the onion, celery, carrots and garlic. Stir fry for a 4-5 minutes. 3. Add the wine, let it evaporate and stir, using a wooden spoon, to scrape the bottom of the pan to dislodge any stuck bits. Add the herbs and berries, and stir. Add the tomato paste, stir, and let the mixture cook for a few minutes.

4. Add the lamb to the pot. Stir well, then add the tinned tomato pulp. Use the 250ml of water to rinse out the tins into the sauce. Season the mixture, add the sugar and give the mixture a stir before covering the pot and letting it simmer very gently for 2 hours. Check the pot and stir it occasionally. 5. Boil the pappardelle in plenty of salted water

till al dente. Drain the pasta, transfer it back to the cooking pot, place it on the heat and mix in some of the ragu. Stir the mixture for 1 minute.

6. Serve the pappardelle at once topped with more

ragu and a good amount of grated pecorino.

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Abbacchio alla Romana Abbacchio alla Romana Roman way of roasting lamb Normally, jointed fresh lamb is used for this recipe but I have adjusted it to use lamb shanks which are very convenient.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 175 minutes Recommended wine: The oaky flavours of a Spanish Rioja or Ribera del Duero ‘Reserva’, are a perfect pairing.

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YOU WILL NEED

4 lamb shanks • flour extra-virgin olive oil • 4 cloves garlic 12 sage leaves • 8 anchovy fillets 4 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 glasses dry white wine 600ml boiling water • salt & pepper

1. Turn on the oven and set it to 180°C. 2. Roll the lamb shanks in flour. Heat some extra-virgin olive oil in a heavy oven-proof pan and fry the shanks for about 10 minutes, turning then often to colour evenly. Season, add the garlic and herbs and cook for 2 minutes.

3. Add the white wine and let the pot cook till the wine evaporates. Now, pour in the boiling water, cover the pot with baking paper and then cover it tightly with foil. Transfer the pot to the oven and let it cook for 1 hour and 45 minutes

4. Take the pot out of the oven and remove the baking paper and foil. Place the anchovy fillets into a small bowl and add a ladle of the cooking juices. Stir well the mixture well until the anchovies are broken down, then pour it over the lamb. 5. Return the pot to the oven

and let it cook uncovered for a further 15 minutes. Serve hot.

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Caramelised Rack of Lamb This is not complicated and quite quick to make. It’s perfect for an intimate dinner for two and sure to impress. Use a frying pan that can be transferred from the stove top to the oven.

Serves 2 • Preparation and cooking: 30-40 minutes Recommended wine: A mature Bordeaux Grand Cru would be the ideal accompaniment to the elegance and romance of the dish YOU WILL NEED

60g unsalted butter plus another 2 teaspoons for later 1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 fresh Frenched Lamb racks salt and pepper 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 100ml dry red wine. 25g crushed pistachio nuts

1. Turn on the oven and set it to 200°C. 2. If you wish you may trim the lamb racks and chine them for a neater finish. I quite like the fat so I only score them. 3. Season the racks with

salt and pepper.

4. Melt the butter in the pan with the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the lamb, fatty side down, to colour and brown over a high heat. Baste the meat as it fries.

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5. Cook the racks for about 5

minutes before turning them over and letting them cook for another 2 minutes. Turn the racks over again and add the sugar. Shake the pan carefully to help the sugar spread and start to dissolve before adding the wine.

6. Season the meat and transfer

the pan to the oven. Let it cook for 12 minutes and then take the pan out of the oven. Place the lamb on a board to rest and return the pan to the stove.

7. Over a high heat, stir in the 2 teaspoons of butter to thicken the pan juices. Slice the lamb, press the meant into the crushed pistachio nuts and serve with the hot sauce and a side dish of your choice - wilted spinach marries perfectly with this.

IN SEASON T&F

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Rolled Breast of Lamb This might be a bit of a “cheffy: recipe but considering we have so much more time on our hands at the moment, it might interest the more adventurous cook.

Serves 6 Preparation and cooking: 5 hours Recommended wine: A rich Californian Cabernet Sauvignon would strike the perfect balance to the richness of the lamb

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YOU WILL NEED:

1kg (approximately) boneless lamb breasts 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1teaspoon each fresh rosemary, thyme and sage, chopped 1 tablespoon English or Dijon mustard 500g duck fat • 25g flour 25g polenta • 1 tablespoon butter 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 200g fresh broad beans, blanched

1. Place the lamb breasts on a

board. Mix the garlic, herbs and mustard in a bowl and rub the mixture into the inside of the meat. Place the lamb breasts on each other and roll them up tightly, starting from the longest side. Use kitchen string to secure your roll.

2. Turn on the oven and set it to 140°C. 3. Heat the duck fat in a large casserole dish. When it melts, carefully place the rolled up lamb into the dish. Cover the dish, transfer it to the oven, and let it cook for 4 hours.

IN SEASON T&F

4. Remove the dish from the oven and leave to cool down before carefully removing the meat. Place the cooked lamb on a large double layer of cling film, roll it up tightly, put it onto a flat baking dish and chill overnight in the fridge. Reserve the duck fat – it’s great for roasting potatoes. 5. To finish the dish, start by

preheating the oven to 180°C. Remove the lamb from the fridge and cut it into 6 thick slices. Mix the flour and polenta together with salt and pepper and roll the lamb slices in the mixture.

6. Heat an oven-proof frying pan

on the hob. Add 1 tablespoon of the reserved duck fat and, when it has melted, add the

lamb. Take care, as this might splutter – hot duck fat is very hot. 7. Brown the coated meat slices, turning them over to brown evenly. Next, transfer the pan to the oven and let it bake for 10 minutes. Put a heat-proof dish into the oven warmer. 8. Remove the pan and the dish from the oven, transfer the lamb to the heated dish and leave it to rest. 9. Place the frying pan on the stove

on medium heat. Add the butter, onions, and garlic and stir for 1 minute. Add the blanched broad beans, heat through for 1 minute, and serve at once with the lamb.

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T&F PROMOTION

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Schneider Electric Electrical power is a basic necessity in today’s day and age. Have you asked yourself whether your house is protected against risks and dangers posed by electrical hazards?

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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having peace of mind at home…

t is priceless to know that your family is protected against the hazards posed by electrical faults due to overloads and short circuits. With the correct use of an MCB (Miniature Circuit Breaker), should there be a fault, the electrical circuit automatically trips off. Once the fault is corrected, supply can be restored in a simple way so everyday life can proceed as before. MCBs come in various AMP ratings and unlike fuses, MCBs are resettable. These small components which are planned for and wired by a qualified electrician can be lifesaving. A short circuit can be the culprit of a house fire. An RCD (commonly known as the ‘Salvavita’) is a sensitive safety device that switches off electricity automatically if there is an earth leakage fault. This is a life-saving device which is designed to prevent fatal electric shock when in contact with direct voltage, such as a bare wire or a faulty appliance. RCDs offer a level of personal protection that ordinary fuses and circuit-breakers cannot provide. It is by law to have a 30mA RCD installed in your main distribution box as it provides the highest level of protection against Earth Leakages for all the wiring and sockets on a circuit, and any connected appliances. In recent years, RCBOs (Residual Current Breaker with Over-Current) were introduced which started to replace MCBs for final circuits. As the name suggests it protects against two types of fault and in essence combines the functionality of an MCB and RCD mentioned above. The main advantage of RCBOs is having a dedicated protection for all type of Electrical Faults for each circuit – hence should there be a fault, the remaining circuits are not interrupted. An ‘Over and Under Voltage Protection’ was legally introduced in Malta around three years ago. In Malta we have different types of power generation; the power station, interconnector to Europe’s main grid and solar panels, thus the supply voltage is not always stable. The OVR will trip should the base voltage of 230V varies by +/- 10% and restores automatically as soon as supply voltage is corrected. Over or under voltage will damage all your electrical appliances from a simple light bulb to that very expensive appliance you invested in. Last but not least, a Surge Protection device is highly recommended for your household and most insurance companies request this for your Home Insurance. This device protects your appliances from Voltage Surges produced by lightning strikes. It offers an alternative route to the surge where it is then discharged to ground. A single unit will protect your entire house. Electricity is vital, but if there appears to be a problem with your home’s electrical system, then do not attempt to resolve the issue yourself. Reach out to highly skilled and certified electricians to identify the problem and provide an effective solution. Make your home safer for loved ones with Schneider Electric technology, a world leading brand renowned for reliable, efficient and intuitive technologies that help enhance living spaces and the lifestyles of their occupants. The safety you deserve. n

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T&F AWARDS

Architectural Heritage THE DIN L-ART Ħ ELWA

AWAR D S

The Din l-Art Ħelwa Architectural Heritage Awards are an initiative set up to encourage architectural excellence in a Maltese context, the rehabilitation and reuse of old buildings, and the recognition of the dedicated work of those active in the field of restoration. The programme is carried out with the support of the Kamra tal-Periti. To mark the 15th edition of its awards and the 55th anniversary of its foundation, this year Din l-Art Ħelwa launched the Judge Maurice Caruana Curran Award for the best overall winner across all award categories. The projects we selected for this feature were awarded the Prix d'Honneur in their respective categories - one also received the prestigious Judge Maurice Caruana Curran Award - and one was awarded a diploma.

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Architectural Heritage THE DIN L-ART Ħ E LWA

AWAR DS

The Phoenicia Hotel Spa by AP Valletta Judge Maurice Caruana Curran Award, for significant contribution to architectural and design excellence in Malta in relation to cultural heritage. Prix d’Honneur – A Major Regeneration Project Lead architects: Edward Cuschieri, Danica Mifsud • Photography: Julian Vassallo & AP Valletta

Valletta’s architectural and structural design of the Phoenicia spa is part of a masterplan for the regeneration of the hotel, aimed at creating a contemporary experience that pays tribute to the prestige of the pre-existing structure and retains its strong sense of place. The plan included restoring and extending the main hotel

building and redeveloping the pool area at the foot of Valletta’s fortified walls. The Spa, located at the side of the hotel building on the inner end of the grounds that stretch from Valletta’s gate to the seashore, enhances the original shape and layout of the hotel, and partly sits on some of the original fortification’s outer works.

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The historic ruins, discovered during construction, had formed part of the foundation system of the Place des Armes. The presence of historical remains demanded structural and architectural solutions where archaeological discovery was interwoven with the design and execution of the site plans. The counterscarp was previously thought to have been emptied out, but the wall had in fact been completely buried in situ and was only re-exposed when works began. There were other finds too, including a sappers’ tunnel which connected to the counterscarp, and a second staircase found during excavation. The architects superimposed the site survey map dating back to the time of the Knights, on a current site grid, mapping out the remains as they emerged, and reshaping their design plans. “It was like playing battleships,” as one of the lead architects, Edward Cuschieri describes it. “We knew we would probably have archaeological remains to integrate, but we needed to discover exactly to what extent this would be,” Danica Mifsud says.

p Sustainability principles were blended into the design process. The most visible outcome is the green roof over the spa extension which provides an alternative cooling system, contributing to the spa’s energy efficiency.

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The historic walls were rediscovered during construction work. AP Valletta decided to integrate them into the main spaces of the hotel, ensuring their maintenance and conservation. Farstone Construction and Restoration Ltd provided specialised stonework and restoration services.

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AP Valletta decided to integrate the historic walls within the primary spaces of the hotel, ensuring their continual maintenance and preservation. The old hotel walls could not provide support for the new construction so part of the refurbishment plans were aimed at strengthening the old structure. The spa is built against the hotel walls’ exterior but without adding load to the original hotel building’s foundations. This wall exterior remains visible within the spa interior; however, the new construction is supported independently by columns and an extended slab cantilevered on supports between the historical walls that were discovered during excavation. 58

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The spa is built against the exterior of the main hotel building, without adding load to its foundations. Halmann Vella supplied the Saturno marble floor and the mosaic tiles for the chrometherapy showers (top right). The metal railings were custom-made.

DEEP NATURE SPA AT THE PHOENICIA. DESIGNED BY AP VALLETTA

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Stoneline Gold Grip flooring and pool walls.

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com

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The architectural language of the new wing reinterprets the Art Deco style of the hotel’s main building, which was designed by William Binnie (who had worked on some of the detailing of New York’s Central Station). The spa extension reinterprets the style with a clean repetition of patterns and distinct linearity that subtly identifies the contemporary nature of the intervention. The historic walls

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and the surrounding curtain walls of Valletta’s fortifications are visible from anywhere within the spa: from the treatment rooms that overhang the pool, to the fitness rooms and lounge area, and the pool itself. The space was conceived around minimal constraint and compartmentation. Treatment rooms offer privacy but with a translucent glazed partition on the outer face.

CONSTRUCTION

RESTORATION & SCAFFOLDING

EXCAVATION WORKS

We are one of Malta's leaders in the restoration and preservation industry, and are proud to have been chosen for specialised stonework and restoration work for the Phoenicia Hotel Spa Project.

2, Triq il-Qamh, Zebbug tel: 9945 1100 or 7949 9338 email: info@farstonecontruction.com

www.farstonecontstruction.com

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Halmann Vella supplied the hardstone paving and cladding (left) and Marca Corona Stoneline Grip floor tiles (above). The walls in the pool area (right) are clad in Saturno marble.

The concept of the spa is rooted in the memory of ancient roman baths and their positive benefits on body and spirit. The circulation leads the visitor along a spring of water to the pool area, the destination of the thermal journey. The spa has a meditative and soothing feel, with a neutral palette and natural materials that echo the travertine stairways of the main hotel. The effect is of a homogenous sculpture emerging from a fortified, pre-existing base. The reintroduction of the hotel’s exposed turrets – visually lost when the hotel’s roof extension was built in the 1990s – articulates a new aesthetic language in dialectic exchange between old and new. Sustainability principles were blended into the design process of which the most visible outcome is the green roof over the spa extension which provides an alternative cooling system contributing to the spa’s energy efficiency. n ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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Papadatos Papadatos S.A. is a design and manufacturing group that was founded in 1990by George & Nasos Papadatos. Papadatos design and manufacture an extensive line of furnishings. Their philosophy is to balance simplicity with honesty, enabling their designs to continue growing in today’s ever-changing world.

Furniture designed with Papadatos’ Values The key to Papadatos’ identity lies in the ability to combine modern with timeless and elegant with comfortable. Apart from sofas, Papadatos’ collection includes a wide range of day and night furniture products, such as beds, comfortable armchairs and minimal and modern sideboards, designed to perfectly match each other. It also includes low tables, which discreetly perform their function without changing the balance of their environments, and dining room furniture, tables and chairs that harmoniously coexist with every other piece of Papadatos’ collection. Eco Design Social Responsibility is a fundamental value within the corporate philosophy of Papadatos. This sense of responsibility goes far beyond the legal obligations of the company. It stems from genuine concern for the people and communities they form part of. In this context, Papadatos has developed two leading programmes of social and environmental action which are constantly expanding. In Environmental terms, as part of the company’s evolving vision of a 100% sustainable product, over the last decade the company has replaced almost every non-green feedstock as well as increasingly recycled the manufacturing by-products over and above the mere packaging. It is now also a point of principle that Papadatos never uses timber coming from protected tropical forests.

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Sofas On the social level, Papadatos fully respects the principles of fair trade and is against any form of labour rights violation or workers’ exploitation. Authenticity Papadatos relies on premium materials and its own highly skilled workforce for the manufacture of its products, ensuring the highest quality and also uniqueness. Each authentic Papadatos product has the authentic label stitched on its cover, as well as the booklet with maintenance instructions together with the product’s guarantee. These three elements certify the authenticity of the product to its growing basis of customers and admirers.

Joinwell is Papadatos’ exclusive agent in Malta. Through our own experience in quality products and commitment to sustainability, we recognize and promote the brand’s sofas for their premium quality and environmental credentials.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F AWARDS

Architectural Heritage T HE DIN L-ART Ħ E LWA

AWAR DS

Palazzo Manresa, Floriana Prix d’Honneur, restoration and conservation project

he restoration and conservation of the façade of Casa Manresa in Floriana, home of the Archbishop’s Curia, is the first phase of a project which will see all of the building’s exterior restored. The completed work on the façade was awarded the Prix d’Honneur in the restoration and conservation project category. Built between 1743 and 1751, Casa Manresa was designed by Jesuit

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Fra Francesco Rosignoli as a retreat house. The baroque building stood on a high ridge with an unobstructed view of Marsamxett Harbour. The main entrance is flanked by columns and elevated from the ground floor, made accessible through a majestic staircase. Sculptured garlands decorate the masonry frames and a statue featuring the Madonna and child crowns the architectural configuration.

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Planning for this restoration project started in 2017, when studies were commissioned to survey the existing condition of the masonry fabric of the exterior façades of the palace. Having been built in various distinct phases, different areas of the building exhibited different pathologies and deterioration mechanisms. The orientation of the building, its proximity to the sea, and the changes in the urban environment surrounding it have all played a part in the aging process and have created unique manifestations of deterioration which required scientific studies and testing. Interventions included the application of biocide, chemical cleaning using paper poulticing, mechanical cleaning using microblasting and surgical knives, repairs through the injection of specially designed mortar mixes, plastic repair, stone changing, consolidation treatments, and the repointing of mortar joints where necessary. The inclusion of protection components, such as protecting cornices and ledges with traditional deffun mortar, and the design and implementation of an easy maintenance plan would ensure the longevity of the results obtained

through the initial capital investment. The restoration of the façade was carried out by CREAID under the supervision of Perit Daphne Fenech. The work was financed by the Archdiocese of Malta, following the approval of the Diocesan Finance Committee presided by Archbishop Charles Jude Scicluna. Michael Pace Ross, Administrative Secretary, Roberto Buontempo, Head of Property, and Perit Daphne Fenech from CREAID received the award on behalf of the Archdiocese of Malta. n The newly restored façade of Casa Manresa was vandalised just weeks after being awarded Din l-Art Ħelwa’s Prix d’Honneur for restoration and conservation. If you wish to contribute towards the restoration of the building, donations may be sent through internet banking to the following account at APS Bank plc: IBAN MT13APSB77002000494810494830018 BIC Code

APSBMTMT

Account name:

Archdiocese of Malta

Alternatively, you may send a cheque payable to the Archdiocese of Malta, addressed to the Administrative Secretary, PO Box 1, Floriana. The Archdiocese of Malta thanks you for your contribution.

ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

T&F AWARDS

Architectural Heritage T HE DIN L-ART Ħ E LWA

AWAR DS

Palazzo de La Salle Chapel Din l-Art Ħelwa Prix d’Honneur – The Rehabilitation and Re-use of Buildings

At the corner of Kingsway [now Republic Street] with St Nicholas Street we come to a very fine house known as the Palazzo De La Salle (Nos 217 – 219 Kingsway). This palace was bought for Sc. 11,700 from Comm. Fra Geronimo Basadonne by the Prior of Barletta, Fra Camillo Albertini, who in 1684 commanded the galley S. Antonio. Victor F. Denaro, Melita Historica, Journal of the Malta Historical Society, Vol 2 of November 1959

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alazzo de La Salle, seat of the 170-year-old Malta Society of Arts (MSA), houses one of the earliest and finest examples of chapels situated in a private residence in Valletta. Recently-discovered archival evidence and the architectural style of the building indicate that it dates to the early years of the building of Valletta in the late sixteenth century and that it then became one of the most prominent residences in the city. Its original Baroque character has survived without much change till this day.

The Chapel itself, on the first floor of the building, has a carved, painted and gilded mid-17th century altar reredos (an ornamental screen covering the wall at the back of an altar) and the top part of the room is decorated with a mural frieze from the early 18th century. The frieze depicts the coat of arms of Fra Guillaume de La Salle, one of the eponymous brothers who occupied the Palazzo in the mid-18th century, and that of Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena, during whose grand-mastership the Palace was transferred to the Order.

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The frieze also contains scenes from the life of St. John. The paintings are of unknown authorship and are significant for being among only a handful of similar Baroque wall paintings to survive within a domestic context in Malta. Although the Palace has served as the seat of the Malta Society of Arts since 1923, it was only in 2015 that

it was given on lease to the Society by the government. The Society immediately decided to undertake various conservation works around the Palace. The Chapel in particular was to be repurposed as a visitor attraction and to house the Society’s collection of Sacred Art. In 2016, the Society invited the Department of Conservation and Built Heritage at the University of Malta, headed by Prof. JoAnn Cassar, to lead a project to conserve this unique Baroque chapel with the goal of ensuring the long-term preservation of its decorative schemes while also enhancing their legibility and aesthetic appreciation. The project was carried out between 2016 and 2019, under the direction of the Department’s professional wall painting conservators, and served as a practical training site for students on the MSc in the Conservation of Decorative Architectural Surfaces in the same Department at the University. The Chapel was inaugurated in February 2020. The conservation work involved archival research and site examination to understand the history of the Chapel and its paintings. Painting materials were examined and analysed, and the state and causes of deterioration were assessed and studied in detail. Conservation interventions were designed and tested before being implemented. Conservation interventions included the removal of layers of house paint which had obscured the Frieze painting from view, and routing and plaster repairs to stabilize areas of painting which were at risk of loss due to deterioration. This was followed by cleaning and retouching returning legibility and aesthetic value to the paintings. The Department also advised the Society on matters such as repairs to the chapel’s roof and external walls, the protection of the interior walls, the internal climate of the Chapel, and the installation of flooring, electrics and lighting, all with the long-term conservation of the paintings in mind. The Chapel now also houses the most exclusive elements within the Society’s collection of religious works of art, including Modern Art works by Anton Inglott, Emvin Cremona, Ganni Bonnici, Ganni Vella, Harry Alden, and Francesco Saverio Sciortino. The collection was curated by artist and curator Roderick Camilleri, who is also a member of the Malta Society of Arts’ Committee. ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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Nathalie Debono treating the wall paintings of the Chapel of Palazzo De la Salle (©Department of Conservation and Built Heritage, University of Malta).

The conservation of the Chapel forms part of a wider project of rehabilitation of the whole of the first floor of the Palace, including the Exhibition Halls, the Concert Hall and the Grandmasters’ Hall. The latter is also currently undergoing extensive conservation works and is expected to open to the public later this year. The inauguration

Left: Helene Nuland stabilising the Coat of Arms of Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena, Frieze, Chapel of Palazzo De la Salle (©Department of Conservation and Built Heritage, University of Malta.) Below: The team involved in the conservation of the Chapel (2016-2018) – Michel Salameh, Nathalie Debono, Helene Nuland, Lara Marie Walker, Roberta De Angelis, Chiara Pasian, Jennifer Porter.

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The conservation of the Chapel wall paintings was inaugurated in early 2020 at an event held by the Malta Society of Arts (MSA) in collaboration with the Department of Conservation and Built Heritage of the Faculty of the Built Environment at the University of Malta. Prof. JoAnn Cassar, Head of the Department of Conservation and Built Heritage, spoke about the mission and teaching of the department, and lecturer Jennifer Porter, who had supervised the works, gave an account of the two-year conservation process. Prof. Keith Sciberras of the University of Malta’s Arts & Art History Department spoke about the Art and Architecture of the Palace, which dates to the late 16th century. Artist and curator Roderick Camilleri, who is also a member of the MSA Committee, spoke about the collection of Modern Art pieces that now adorn the Chapel. The event was introduced by Prof. Michael Zammit of the Philosophy Department. MSA president Adrian Mamo thanked the Department of Conservation and Built Heritage for taking the initiative to carry out the programme of works and for restoring the Chapel to its former glory. n

T: 2166 8053 | info@sigmamalta.com | sigmamalta.com |

SigmaMalta

T&F AWARDS

Architectural Heritage T HE DIN L-ART Ħ E LWA

AWAR DS

The King George, Għargħur Diploma – The Rehabilitation and Re-use of Buildings Lead architect: Perit Elena Borg Costanzi • Interior design: 3DM architecture • Photography: Zack Pulis

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he building stands in the shadow of the St Bartholomew Church, hence the name, Berta, and is typical of the vernacular architecture of a peaceful village laced in between cul-de-sacs and large stretches of agricultural land. During the first inspections and before the applications to the Planning Authority were initiated, it was clear that the existing use, that is, of a bar named King George, was solid and needed to be reactivated even though it had been closed for a number of years; it was present and missed. The Bar formed part of a larger building which boasted a large perimeter on two storeys facing the square, partly overlying the said Bar. The entrance to the main building was and still is through a remissa that led to a series of interconnecting rooms at both levels with some open space and a treacherous staircase leading to the roof. After surveying the structure and exposing its potential – the façade, its permeability, its elaborate stone balcony and its siting – it was clear to the lead architect, Perit Elena Borg Costanzi, that the bar was to stay in the same location, that is, in the corner closest to the church, and that the rest of the building, with an axis through the remissa, was to be converted into a hospitality nest. The building was altered to accommodate a five-roomed hotel with facilities and comforts such as a lift. The dangerous structures were removed and replaced and an extension at roof level was granted, thus finishing off the elevation and the massing of the building’s architecture. The fabric of the façade had undergone several interventions over the years and great care was taken to unify the elevation into homogeneity while still identifying phases of the stonework and the new insertions.

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The same applies for the apertures on the façade, which were kept to a minimum to maintain the modest introverted architecture and to give more importance to the arched inset balcony and doorway. During works, a well was discovered and this was made use of in the bar area and left exposed as a feature. “By means of the application to reactivate the bar and include external catering, as well as creating a boutique hotel with 5 suites intrinsically linked to the bar, Berta and King George have given life to the extended part of the piazza of Gharghur,” Perit Borg Costanzi says. “The bar itself is a welcome return to the local community but not only, since it is the genuine return of a welcoming catering establishment balancing indoor and outdoor space, attracting visitors from outside the village. The project is the first of its type in Gharghur, catering for hospitality too. “Of special interest is the penthouse suite and its terrace which, being so close to the church at such a high level, gives a sense of belonging, and not just to believers. I believe that Berta and King George have truly brought back to life a building that was partly missed and partly missing or just simply ignored. In operation, it has ticked so many boxes and consolidated a part of the village life as well as contributed immensely to the piazza.”

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Architectural and Decorative Collections

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About Berta Berta has a long history of bringing people together. From just after World War II up until just a few years ago, it acted as a tea room in the heart of this small village. Berta was conceived as a continuation of this tradition, representing life in its simplest form, the bond between people, and the ability to appreciate every moment. The project is the personified feeling of being with somebody you know, who you look for when seeking comfort. Through the representation of simple village life in the Mediterranean, the simplicity and character of Berta can start to emerge. It is reflected in the combination of different functions in the same place, creating one monolithic volume which is connected and allows the project to feel like one cohesive whole. The different elements of the interior – the bar, the bakery, the coffee – are designed in harmony with each other, providing a feeling of comfort to the users experiencing the space. The harmony is achieved through simple forms, using light tones that provide an airy and fresh atmosphere. The veincut travertine marble used for the floor and counter, the earth tone lime base plaster applied to the backdrop of the bar, and the oak timber structure and furniture present in the space contrast with the rough textured limestone that showcases the age of the space itself. As a result, tension is formed between the warm tones of the material and the sharp but sensitive geometric lines which, in conjunction with each other, create a dynamic yet calm interior. Berta provides an atmosphere of being and staying at ease – special but discreet, elegant in its bare essence. n

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T&F WINE

CALIFORNIA DREAMING Andrew Azzopardi uncorks memories of honeymooning in California’s wine territory

remember when we first mentioned California as our honeymoon destination, we got a whole array of different looks and questions. Why California? Aren’t there better wines in Tuscany, Piedmont or Bordeaux? The benign climate, with its cool, short winters and dry summers, makes California perfect for grapes to ripen to their full potential. The mountains and hills offer different terroirs, winds and altitudes allowing for a multitude of micro-climates ideal for such a variety of quality wines. With warm weather till late October and welcoming locals, it’s also the perfect American getaway. The vast expanse of vineyards and lush greenery is something we don’t have much of here, and the quality of restaurants are in abundance and of good value, so it seemed it would be the perfect destination. Due to the culture, the selection of top-quality wines by the glass offered at even mid-priced restaurants was terrific. I found myself drinking way more than planned, allowing myself an extra glass of top-quality Californian sparkling wine such as the all-American Domaine Chandon, or the Champagne-inspired Roederer Estate owned by none other than Louis Roederer, maker of the bling Cristal Champagne. After dinner, I unsuccessfully tried stopping myself from having a glass or two of sweet wine by the glass. Again, there was a remarkable selection of late harvest Chenin Blanc, botrytisaffected Sémillon and Chardonnays at different price-points for any occasion. It was heavenly. Choosing a few wine tours from the over 3000 available vineyards was no easy task. The choice was overwhelming, but it was the different approach each vineyard adopted which fascinated me most. Whatever grape or style you wanted, California has it. Our very first visit was the illustrious Opus One winery in Oakville, Napa Valley. The winery itself is breathtaking. A never-ending row of trees lead you up to the winery, seemingly sunk into a sloping vineyard. Unfortunately, the hospitality left much to be desired. The young, uninterested receptionist, centrally located in the middle of the clinical-looking hallway, asked us which tasting we booked and pointed us towards a colleague pouring a few vintages of the wine from pre-opened bottles. But the wine itself is a beautiful, elegant powerhouse – an ethereal example of Californian Cabernet Sauvignon, which invariably needs a few years in the bottle to be enjoyed. Luckily we were allowed to roam the vineyards with glass in hand, enjoying the wine, while quietly admiring the vines and relishing the beautiful glow of the morning sun. If only the hospitality was less stiff, it would have been the perfect start to our day. However as though it were some practical joke, the next vineyard we visited was the other extreme. Two Italian men in pin stripe suits, a red cravat and shiny brown shoes,

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emerged from an ostentatious building towering over acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Gamay vines. The flamboyant American-Italian owners of V. Sattui wines, with their big Italian personality instantly charm you with their loud, passionate style for great tasting wine. Young families visit the enormous BBQ and picnic grounds of this huge estate, week in week out. It’s like one big, boisterous Italian family of fun and games. Whether you’re after easy drinking juicy wines for your next BBQ or top rated, seriously complex, wines, this winery offered them all, and more. Obviously late for our next visit, Bouchaine Winery was thankfully less than a twenty-minute drive up the road, and a much smaller, modest-looking chalet at the end of a quaint alley. The owners humbly greet you and enthusiastically whisk you away into their world of grape-growing and winemaking. They explain their choices of second-hand wooden barrels and its effect on their Pinot Noir wines, as well as their curiosity of working with less popular grape varieties. Their love for the earth and respect for the vine was truly inspiring. While you sip their wine on the patio at the back of the winery, watching the sun set over the sloping golden hills, you realise that their wines, just like the owners, are a beautiful combination of rustic charm and elegance. But the day wasn’t over yet. After a few more glasses of wine at the boutique winery, we met an American couple who travel to California every year, and without much armtwisting they convinced us to join them at another winery a few minutes down the road. We were promised something special at Darioush Winery. I had no idea what to expect. We turned into a grand, private drive up towards the winery. The entrance was flamboyant in every way. Huge, yellow-tinged columns surrounding a large pond, equipped with monstrous lilies and a whole row of fountains. The grandiosity of the place was surreal. We soon discovered that the owner, Darioush Khaledi, inspired by wine culture at a young age, emigrated from Iran to America in search of the American dream. In 1997 he founded Darioush winery intent on a Bordeaux-style of winemaking. The tasty Bordeaux blends had the elegance and complexities of Bordeaux, but still expressed their Californian character. The place was extremely popular, but unlike the relaxed familyoriented Italian party down the road, this place was alive with a crowd of older, well-to-do businesspeople drinking copious amounts of this rather expensive and delicious wine. The Californian wine industry is one of the most diverse, friendly, and probably least rigid in the world. This invariably means that winemakers are less restricted allowing for experimentation and ultimately ‘bad’ quality wines along with the premium. Since 1976, the overall quality of wine has improved, but a huge number of cheaper quality wines more

WINE T&F

Darioush Winery

akin to fruit juice, sadly still engulf the supermarket shelves due to their cheap cost and high return. Thankfully the trend for rich, deep-coloured, ripe, highalcohol wines, which came about from the consistently high points awarded by wine critics such as Robert Parker and Wine Spectator, has slowed and many modern American winemakers have become more confident in their product, reducing the overall berry hang-time, new oak and ultimate ‘fattiness’ of the wine, thus offering fresh, sophisticated wines true to their terroir. I think the sheer enormity and different microclimates of the place, together with the relatively lax regulations is not the best recipe for consistency, however it promotes experimentation and different quality wines at different price points. California is definitely a wine-producing region for everyone. How California became famous for quality wines Affectionately referred to as wine-country, California includes the famous Napa Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley. It is still somewhat misunderstood in the wine world and often seen as a producer of inferior quality wines compared to the classical old-world. But I guarantee you that California is currently producing some of the most outstanding quality wines worldwide. As great as the wines are now, it wasn’t always the case. The region only really started turning heads after 1976, owing to an event often referred to as the Judgement of Paris tasting – a competition organised by the late Steven Spurrier that single-handedly elevated the status of Californian wine as a force to be reckoned with, by outperforming some of the greatest names in Bordeaux and Burgundy. This historic event nearly didn’t happen. Most wine critics were perplexed at the reason for a blind tasting competition between top French wines and Californian wines, when everybody expected the former would win by a landslide. There were going to be nine French judges out of a total of eleven, so it was sure to be a walkover for the French wines. The tasting began with snide comments such as “That is definitely California. It has no nose,” when unknowingly tasting a top Bâtard-Montrachet, followed by “Ah, back to France!” when moving onto the next wine – ironically, one from from Napa Valley. The result was shocking to many. The iconic Burgundy wines, including the super-premium Chardonnays from Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Joseph Drouhin, were outperformed by Napa Valley Chardonnays from Chateau Montelena and Chalone Winery. Maybe it was just not the year for Chardonnay in Burgundy, but the red wine category was no different, with the two

at Opus One Winery

Robert Modavi Cellar

legendary 1970 Bordeaux Premier Grand Cru Classé Château Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild having also been beaten to the top spot by none other than the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Stags Leap, Napa Valley. It was no hoax, and the world of wine was changed forever. The results stunned wine critics the world over. Winelegends from Napa Valley and surrounding areas were suddenly getting noticed and wine producers increased their confidence in the potential of the area. That means huge money was pumped into the wine-making industry in Napa Valley and its surrounding areas. Steven Spurrier believed this spurred the collaboration between American winemaker Robert Mondavi and French winemaker Philippe de Rothschild in 1979 to produce the famous wine Opus One, as well as the birth of one of the most celebrated and most expensive wines from California, Screaming Eagle, which often retails at an eyepopping three thousand euros a bottle. Unsurprisingly, the number of wineries in California exploded from a mere 300 back in 1970, to over 3000 wineries to date. The high scores awarded to such wines by famous wine critics such as Robert Parker contributed to the surge in investment. n The celebration I remember my dad’s lack of enthusiasm at the mention of his birthday. I couldn’t understand why, but it was written all over his face that birthdays simply meant you are a year older and that there is nothing to celebrate. I’m not sure if it’s hereditary, but I’ve become no different to my dad. Birthdays come and go, and true to my inner Victor Meldrew, I find no special joy on the day. Actually, I would hasten to add that if it were not for the celebratory bottle of wine it would be a day just like any other. But this year’s birthday was the big four zero, so it had to be special. My wife had originally planned a birthday vacation with a special focus on food and lots of wine - until the dreaded pandemic destroyed all her plans, that is. So, instead the customary bottle of wine had to be pulled out of the wine cabinet and paired alongside some pretty decent take-away. I found myself dreaming about what could or should have been. A weekend getaway in Tuscany? A Pinot Noir-fuelled trip to Burgundy, or a romantic repeat of our wine-inspired honeymoon in California? If I wasn’t going to travel for my birthday, it was the perfect time to pop open the last bottle of Napa Valley wine that I had managed to stuff into my suitcase on our honeymoon. The Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from the legendary Stags Leap winery. It did not disappoint. It was typically Californian - big, bold, and incredibly charming, and it brought back memories that inspired this article.

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T&F TRENDS

p Piemont Cioccolato - dal 1948 il cioccolato a Torino - THE CHOCOLATE IN PIEDMONT. At Santa Lucia you can find the whole range of Piemont Cioccolato products, always freshly manufactured. Besides classical chocolate bars of any kind, traditional gianduiotto - a classical version or with extra dark chocolate, and a really special Gianduia spread cream, with a chocolatey and hazelnutty flavour and velvety and pleasant taste – you can also find a variety of Dragées and Truffles with hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts, and also orange peel, raisins, as well as other wrapped bonbons, Cioccrì, and Chicchino. Santa Lucia, Gourmet - Wines - Gifts, Triq il Linja Attard, T. 2141 6828, 2141 7894.

p Dining In! Torri by Novamobili. Reminiscent of the shape of the ancient Japanese temple gateways and presented in elegant material and colour combinations, the Torri table sits happily in a variety of different settings. Get in touch for more information on our selection of dining tables from Satariano - 122, Msida Valley, Birkirkara, Tel. 21492149

t Meridiana ASTARTE DOK Made exclusively from Malta-grown Vermentino grapes, Meridiana’s ASTARTE DOK has a straw-yellow colour and is characterised by intense aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with hints of flowers. Its palate is fresh with a pleasantly acidic finish. Distributed by S Rausi Trading Ltd, Gzira, T. 2133 0447, M. 7909 3197, info@srausi.com www.meridiana.com.mt

p Get your outdoor space, summerready. Mayor Ceramica have designed every constructive requirement you may have for your pool: edges, grates, monoblock and more. A large selection of outdoor tiles is available on display at Satariano 122, Msida Valley, Birkirkara, Tel. 21492149 t Broil King – great barbecues every time Every Broil King gas barbecue is built to provide cooking versatility, no matter what model you choose. The Legendary Broil King is made in North America with a lifetime warranty and is built to last. Every part of the cooking system is designed and engineered for a specific purpose. You can sear steaks to perfection, rotisserie, and roast, and you can even bake elaborate desserts. Exclusively available from Satariano 122, Msida Valley, Birkirkara, Tel. 21492149.

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ISSUE 137 MAY 2021

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