TASTE&FLAIR APRIL 2020 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 127 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

APRIL 2020

Staying Home FOOD · WINE · EASTER · ARCHITECTURE · INTERIORS · ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

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Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL Crudo di Carciofi e Gamberi, by Michael Diacono and Ryan Vella. Photo by Brian Grech. See feature starting on page 40.

Staying Home W

ith more of us staying indoors for longer than usual, our home environment and how and what we cook become more important. Although travel is restricted, we can continue to look outwards and remember that there’s a wider world outside which we can explore through memory and through the eyes and experience of others. We can also bring some of the wider world into our homes through what we choose to cook and eat. This month, Taste&Flair takes you on a culinary journey across the world and features two very different interiors in Malta – a grand palazzo in Valletta and a compact house in the heart of an old village. Megan Mallia writes about green almonds, enjoyed in the Eastern Mediterranean, appreciated in art and literature, but largely underrated here. Claire Borg reinterprets a traditional Easter feast, inspired by a recent visit to London’s Borough Market, Eunice Muscat takes us on a culinary trip through Asia, inspired by Sean Mallia’s travel photography, Andrew Azzopardi remembers a visit to Bordeaux, pairing food with exquisite wines, and Michael Diacono and Ryan Vella draw on Mediterranean culinary traditions to cook up a feast of seasonal artichokes. We hope you enjoy this issue. We’ll be taking a break over Easter, but will be back shortly.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

A Tale from the Decameron - John William Waterhouse, 1916

ISSUE 127 APRIL 2020

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T&F CONTENTS

Travel photography: Sean Mallia

CONTENTS 13

Easter feast Claire Borg’s warm welcome

A taste of Asia Eunice Muscat’s menu, inspired by Sean Mallia’s travel photography

Fresh from the fields New ways with artichokes by Michael Diacono and Ryan Vella at Mezzodì

Wining and dining Andrew Azzopardi pairs food with Bordeaux wines

Valletta palazzo Interior design by Carlo Schembri

Heart of the home Archi+’s contemporary take on a traditional house

Green almonds Megan Mallia picks an unusual fruit

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T&F QUICK MEAL

Garlic Chicken Wings with Modena balsamic vinegar

You can rustle up this quick, fragrant recipe in no time at all. If you’re pressed for time, it’s even faster in a pressure cooker.

1. Cook the garlic in a saucepan

with plenty of extra-virgin olive oil until it turns golden brown. Remove the garlic anduse the same oil to cook the onion.

YOU WILL NEED

500g chicken wings 100ml Modena balsamic vinegar 150ml chicken stock 1 onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves of garlic mixed herbs: rosemary, thyme, oregano extra-virgin olive oil 2 spoonfuls of brown sugar

2. When the onion starts to turn golden brown, add the chicken wings, salt and pepper, and the herbs. Cook for a further 8 to 10 minutes to let all the flavours bind. 3. Mix the balsamic vinegar, sugar and chicken stock together in a bowl and add to the saucepan when the chicken wings are golden. Cook over a low to medium heat for about 30 minutes to reduce the sauce. 4. Serve with basmati rice.

ISSUE 127 APRIL 2020

Right to your door!

T&F PROMOTION

A New Wellness Approach

In hectic and uncertain times, reducing stress and improving wellbeing may feel like an impossible dream. A visit to the reimagined Athenaeum Spa will wash all your cares away, leaving you relaxed and refreshed. Susanne Fisch, director of the Athenaeum Spa, which will soon be reopening its doors at the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, explains the secret behind conquering wellness.

usanne Fisch came to Malta after years in hospitality, most recently in the Maldives. When asked for her thoughts on the latest trends in wellness, she takes a long, deep breath. Wherever she goes in the world, she hears this question time and again. “Thinking of wellness as the goal rather than the journey is harmful,” Ms Fisch explains. “Wellness is a concept and a journey. Wellbeing is a yearned-for state. I’m very cautious about wellness trends. This is a multi-billiondollar industry, so we shouldn’t just take advice at face value. “Trends, especially those spread on social media, put pressure on people, causing undue stress. The illusionary, Instagrammable lifestyle is paradoxically a trigger for anxiety. Your phone accelerates your life, leaving you struggling to keep up.” Tech is a trend in fitness and wellbeing. We count our steps, track calories and

outsource remembering to hydrate to automated notifications from our tech devices. Ms Fisch does not think this is necessarily negative. “I don’t dislike health-related apps,” she continues, “but it depends on the person. These apps are modern renditions of traditional approaches to health and wellbeing. Meditation apps, for instance, provide guidance in connecting with your breath and inner self, which is beneficial for your nervous system, sleep and balance. “Can ear phones really replace physicality when seeking introspection and detachment from stress? I think not completely. Some seek introspection and relaxation by sitting with their eyes closed. For others, the secret is being out in nature, going scuba-diving or cooking. Whichever path you choose, this is your journey of personal discovery that brings your heart, mind and body into alignment.”

“Wellness is a concept and a journey. Wellbeing is a yearned-for state. I’m very cautious about wellness trends. 10

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Set in a Mediterranean garden of aromatic herbs and lemon trees, the new Athenaeum Spa offers visitors a personalised journey. When it started out over 50 years ago, the spa broke the mould with its natural and holistic therapies and ethos. The new spa continues this tradition, while meeting contemporary needs. “ We’ve created a multi-sensory experience that nourishes your body and soul,” says Ms Fisch. “Our lives have become all about performance and achievement, even in our search for wellbeing. We want you to switch off. No texts, emails or calls. Here, you’re detoxing from emotions and stress.

PROMOTION T&F

“Mental health is our focus, both for our clients and our team. We start every morning by grounding ourselves through meditation as a team. In this regard, I see practising sustainability – in terms of lifestyle and the environment – as crucial. It’s a challenge both personally and as a spa. Surround yourself with people and companies that positively influence your state of being, so that you can reciprocate that good impact.” The refurbished spa is a pioneer in Malta in using cruelty-free, biodegradable products, moving away from plastic and opting for special linen that requires less water to be washed. It also sources whatever it can here in Malta. The idea is that these small steps will transform into great strides along the spa’s own journey of sustainability and wellbeing. “I recommend considering the difference between vision and expectation. When you have a vision, the journey is fluid and even tiny steps are valuable. But when you set expectations, you miss the journey. Wellbeing is not the same for everybody. Adopt advice that works for you, test little steps and you’ll discover your own sustainable path.” n The highly-anticipated, reimagined luxury Athenaeum Spa will open its doors soon. Follow @athenaeumspamt on Instagram or visit www.corinthia.com/palace-hoteland-spa/ to discover the latest news.

“Mental health is our focus, both for our clients and our team. We start every morning by grounding ourselves through meditation as a team.

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CELEBRATE T&F

EASTER FEAST Memories of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Borough market and fresh, locally-grown seasonal produce blend into a riot of colour and flavour. Food and photography: Claire Borg This Easter menu was inspired by the beautiful produce thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in season and by a visit to the much-loved Borough Market near London Bridge, earlier this year, before everything changed. When I visited, the market overflowed with fresh produce. I wanted to taste everything but it truly was impossible. It was a matter of too much to eat and too little time: fresh mushrooms from the mushroom stand, paella cooking in a huge pan, barley risotto, honeycomb, cream-filled doughnuts, Swiss cheeses, fresh vegetables, spices, sourdough bread, freshly ground coffee, and so much more.

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T&F CELEBRATE

Savoy cabbage, broad bean and pistachio tart

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CELEBRATE T&F

Serves 4 Baking time: 30-40 minutes FOR THE SHORTCRUST PASTRY

200g flour • 100g butter • 1 egg 1 teaspoon salt • cold water FOR THE FILLING

1/4 Savoy cabbage, finely chopped 1 handful broad beans, peeled 4 tablespoons crushed pistachio nuts 1 piece of fresh garlic 1 knob of butter • 3 eggs 100ml fresh cream 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese black pepper • salt

1. First, make the pastry. Sift the

flour into a large bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it in using your fingertips. Season with the salt. 2. Add the egg and mix it in. Add enough cold water to bring the dough together. Wrap it in cling film and let it rest in the fridge for at least an hour or overnight 3. In a pan, melt the butter and gently cook the garlic and finely chopped cabbage. If it seems too dry, add some hot water and cook it until soft and the water evaporates. Set the pan aside to cool. 4. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Roll out the pastry and use it to line a tart tin, and add the cooked and cooled cabbage and peeled broad beans. 5. Beat the eggs, parmesan cheese

and cream and season well. Pour the liquid over the vegetables and sprinkle with crushed pistachio nuts. 6. Bake the tart in a hot oven

set on 180°C until golden (about 30-40 minutes).

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T&F CELEBRATE

Mini Victoria sandwiches

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CELEBRATE T&F

I used a silicone cupcake mould to make these, but you can use any mould you like.

Makes 12 Baking time: 20minutes FOR THE CAKE

100g butter at room temperature 100g sugar • 100g eggs 100g flour, sifted 1 teaspoon baking powder FOR THE FILLING

whipped cream strawberry or raspberry jam icing sugar • raspberries

1. Preheat the oven to 175°C. 2. Using an electric beater, beat the butter and sugar till light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, and beat well until smooth and fluffy. 3. Add the flour and baking powder and fold them into the mixture. 4. Half fill the cake moulds and let them bake in at 175°C for about 20 minutes or until done. Remove them from the oven and let them cool slightly before turning them out onto a wire rack to cool completely. 5. Cut the mini-cakes across the middle

and spread one cut side with jam and cream. Place the other cake half on top to make a “sandwich”. Sprinkle the cakes with icing sugar and garnish with some cream and a raspberry.

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T&F CELEBRATE

Braised Lamb Shanks with Cabernet and Mushrooms

For this recipe, use a stove-top pot that can go into the oven. I like to let the dish cook for about 30 minutes on the stove top and then in a hot oven for 2-3 hours. I served this with tenderstem broccoli.

Serves 6 Braising time: 150180 minutes YOU WILL NEED

6 lamb shanks 2 onions 8-10 brown mushrooms 4 carrots 4 cloves garlic 1 large knob of butter 1 teaspoon fresh thyme 4 bay leaves 1 bottle of good quality Cabernet or a good red wine of your choice

1. In a large pot, melt the

butter, add the crushed garlic, bay leaves and thyme and sear the lamb shanks. 2. Remove the lamb shanks from the pot. Add the diced onions, halved mushrooms and sliced carrots, and cook for a few minutes. 3. Put the lamb shanks back into the pot with the vegetables, season and add the red wine. The lamb shanks should be mostly covered in liquid, so you might need to add some boiling water. 4. Bring the liquid to the boil and let the pot cook, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 170°C. 5. Now, cover the pot and

transfer it to the hot oven. Let it braise for 2.5-3 hours. 6. Serve with buttery mashed potatoes and greens.

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T&F CELEBRATE

Vanilla cake with a rhubarb and Bramley apple compĂ´te filling

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CELEBRATE T&F

Serves 6-8 Baking time: 25 minutes FOR THE CAKE

200g butter at room temperature 200g sugar • 200g flour vanilla pod, scraped 2 teaspoons baking powder 200g eggs (approximately 5) FOR THE FILLING

1 large Bramley apple • 2 stalks rhubarb 4 tablespoons sugar • 4 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon cornflour TO GARNISH

Fresh raspberries

1. First, make the compôte. In a pan,

cook the chopped fruit, sugar and water together until soft. When the mixture turns into soft pulp, mix the cornflour with 1 teaspoon of water, blending it well, and add it to the fruit. Stir everything together, remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool.

2. Preheat the oven to 175°C. 3. Using a whisk attachment, beat the butter, vanilla and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating the mixture well between each one. 4. Add the sifted flour and baking powder and fold them in until well combined. I used two 8” tins and divided the mixture equally between them. 5. Bake the cakes in the hot oven for

25 minutes or until completely done. Let the cakes cool in their tin for 15 minutes, then transfer them onto a rack to cool down completely. 6. Check that the cakes will layer well by

stacking them one on top of the other. You may need to trim them slightly. 7. Place a thick layer of fruit compôte on the first cake, then place the second cake on top. Sprinkle the top with icing sugar and garnish with lots of fresh raspberries.

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T&F CELEBRATE

Caraway seed and cheddar sourdough bread Sourdough bread is prepared in stages over several hours. Start the process in the late afternoon, and you’ll be able to enjoy freshly baked bread, crackling and piping hot from the oven, for breakfast the next morning. The sourdough is left to prove in a banneton, a woven basket made for the purpose. If you do not have one, use a colander lined with a clean dishcloth dusted with flour.

Makes 1 loaf • Baking time: 75 minutes YOU WILL NEED

300g water • 100g sourdough leaven • 100g wholemeal flour 400g strong white flour • 10g fine sea salt mixed with 15g of cold water 25g rice flour mixed with 25g white flour (for dusting your banneton) semolina to dust the bottom of the baking surface 200g Cheddar cheese, grated • 2 tablespoons caraway seeds

1. In a large bowl whisk the water and

starter and mix well. Add all the flour and stir until all the ingredients come together into a large ball of dough. 2. Cover the bowl with a clean damp cloth and set it aside to rest for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. 3. Add the salted water and use all your fingers to dimple the dough, distributing the salted water evenly throughout. Let the dough stand for 10 minutes, then add the caraway seeds and cheese. They will be incorporated into the dough in the lifting and folding stage. 4. Lift and fold the dough over in the bowl, give the bowl a quarter turn and lift and fold again. Repeat this lifting and folding three more times and let the bowl stand for another 30 minutes.

7. Set the banneton aside for the dough to prove. Once it is 50% bigger, put the banneton in the fridge to prove for another 8-12 hours. 8. The next morning, preheat your oven

to 220°C for at least 30 minutes. Put a baking stone in the oven with a large pan of boiling water beneath. The water will help the bread form a delicious crust. If you don’t have a baking stone, you can use a “Dutch oven” – a type of covered pot - to bake the bread. 9. Once the oven is heated, remove the

baking stone using oven gloves and dust it with a fine layer of semolina to stop the bread sticking while it bakes. Place the dough onto the heated baking stone and use a blade to slash the top in a pattern. As it bakes, the bread will split and tear along the slash lines, creating an interesting pattern.

5. Repeat the process three more

times at 30-minute intervals. After the last round of lifting and folding, let the bowl stand for 15 minutes. 6. Now, shape the dough lightly into a

ball and place it into a round banneton dusted with flour or a colander lined with a clean dishcloth and dusted with flour. Dust the top of the dough with flour and cover it with a damp tea-towel.

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10. Place the baking stone back in the

oven and let the bread bake for an hour. Then, turn down the heat to 180°C and let it bake for another 10-15 minutes till it forms a crust. I prefer a dark brown crust as it tastes much better. If you’re using a Dutch oven, remove the lid for the last 10-15 minutes.

CELEBRATE T&F

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T&F CELEBRATE

Carrot and Dill Soup

Serves 4-5 Cooking time: 75 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 kg carrots, peeled and chopped 2 large potatoes, peeled and diced 1 punnet fresh dill, washed and chopped 1 leek, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 knob of butter 1 glass of milk 50ml cream salt and pepper

1. In a large pot, melt

the butter and cook the roughly chopped onion and leek until soft. 2. Add the chopped garlic and the peeled and chopped carrots. Let them cook for a few minutes and then add half the dill. 3. Pour about 1.5 litres of boiling water into the pot and add the diced potatoes. Cover the pot and let it simmer for an hour. 4. Now, stir in a glass of milk and the rest of the chopped dill. Season the soup to taste and blend it thoroughly until smooth. 5. Stir in the cream

and serve.

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T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

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ARMCHAIR TRAVEL T&F

A TASTE OF

ASIA While travelling for pleasure remains a far-off dream, enjoy the tastes and sights of Asia from the comfort of home. All of the ingredients used here are available from the larger supermarkets and from specialist Asian shops. Food: Eunice Muscat Food and travel photography: Sean Mallia Ceramic functional ware: Sue Mifsud

Cooking notes: Asafoetida is derived from a type of giant fennel. It smells unpleasant when raw but has a garlickly flavour when cooked. You can make dhana jeera at home by roasting and grinding coriander and cumin seeds. Thai basil has small narrow leaves and purplish stems. It tastes different to the sweet basil used in Italian cooking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; slightly spicy with a hint of aniseed. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re unable to find any in the shops, use sweet basil instead and add some ground star anise to the dish while cooking. ISSUE 127 APRIL 2020

T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

Vegetarian thali NEPAL

Thalis are made for sharing. These recipes will serve 5-8 but the ingredient amounts can easily be adjusted to suit the size of your household. Serve the various dishes in small bowls on a large tray with naan bread and basmati rice topped with shredded spring onions and lime wedges. The pastes are made by crushing the raw ingredient using a pestle and mortar.

Dal

Preparation and cooking: 20 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 cupful red lentils • 950ml hot water 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 4 green chilies, sliced diagonally 2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves ½ teaspoon garlic paste ½ teaspoon ginger paste 2 tablespoons oil • 5 curry leaves 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground red chili ½ teaspoon ground coriander

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3. Now, add the chopped tomatoes and cook until they soften. Add the drained lentils and fry them for 2 minutes. Add the hot water and stir well. Cover the pot and simmer until the lentils soften (approximately 15 minutes), then whisk the mixture to break up the grains and stir in the chopped coriander leaves.

2 dried red chilis • 1 curry leaf 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoons oil or butter ghee ½ teaspoon ground red chili ½ teaspoon cumin seeds

4. For the tadka, heat two tablespoons of oil in a separate pan. Add the chopped garlic and fry it until it starts to brown slightly. Now, add the cumin seeds, the curry leaf and the dried red chili. Stir fry for a few seconds, then stir in the ground red chili.

1. Wash the lentils well.

5. Put the cooked lentils into a serving

TADKA

Drain, and set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a pan on medium heat. Add the curry leaves and cumin seeds. Cook until the seeds start to crackle (around 30 seconds). Add the onions and sauté until they soften. Add the garlic and ginger pastes and the green chilis and cook for 1 minute.

dish, top with the tadka and stir lightly.

ARMCHAIR TRAVEL T&F

Potato curry with tomatoes

Curried chickpeas

Curried okra

YOU WILL NEED

450g potatoes, peeled and diced 400g tomatoes, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons sunflower oil ½ teaspoon asafoetida 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ½ teaspoon mustard seeds 1 teaspoon dhana jeera (ground roast cumin and coriander seeds) ½ teaspoon ground red chili (ground, not flaked) 1 teaspoon sesame seeds 1 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons sugar 250ml water

400g cooked chickpeas, rinsed and drained (canned are fine) 200g chopped tomatoes 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped 1 handful coriander, chopped 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 teaspoon ginger paste 1 teaspoon green chili paste 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon red chili powder 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1 teaspoon dhana jeera (ground roast cumin and coriander seeds) ½ teaspoon asafoetida 2 teaspoons sugar (if you prefer a slightly sweet taste)

You’ll need a wok or deep frying pan to make this.

Preparation and cooking: 20 minutes

1. Heat the oil in a large pot. Add the

mustard seeds. When they begin to crackle, add the asafoetida and the cumin seeds. Next, add the potatoes, salt and ground red chili. Stir. 2. Pour in the water and stir. Cover the pot and let it cook until the potatoes soften. Stir occasionally to stop the mixture sticking to the pot. 3. Now, add the tomatoes, dhana jeera and sesame seeds. Let the mixture simmer until the flavours combine (about 5 minutes).

Raita

Preparation and cooking: 8 minutes 2 cups yogurt, unflavoured ½ cucumber, finely chopped 2 peppers, finely chopped ½ a handful coriander, chopped 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1 teaspoon mint, chopped 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper Salt to taste

1. Put the yogurt into a bowl.

Cooking: 20 minutes

Preparation and cooking: 10 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

500g okra, sliced (wash and dry the okra well first to avoid a slimy texture) 1 handful chopped coriander 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon asafoetida 1 teaspoon minced green chilli 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon minced ginger ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon red chili powder ½ teaspoon garam masala 1 tablespoon dhana jeera (ground roasted cumin and coriander seeds)

1. Heat the wok and add the oil. TO SERVE

½ teaspoon garam masala Green chillies, sliced diagonally

Lift, tilt and rotate the wok till the inside is well coated in oil. Put the wok back on the heat and add the cumin seeds and the asafoetida.

1. Heat the oil in a pan and add the

mustard seeds. When they begin to crackle, add the asafoetida and stir in the onions. Continue to cook the onions until they turn translucent and the edges start to turn golden.

2. Turn down the heat and add the turmeric, garlic, ginger, red chili powder, green chili paste, and the dhana jeera. Add a pinch of salt and stir everything well. Fry the mixture for 1 minute.

2. Now, stir in the tomatoes and cook them for 5 minutes. Add the green chili paste, red chili powder, ginger paste, dhana jeera and a pinch of salt. If you’re using the sugar, add it now. Stir fry for 5 minutes.

3. Now, add the sliced okra and let it cook until tender. You’ll need to stir the mixture occasionally to make sure it doesn’t stick to the pan. If the mixture is too dry, add a splash of water.

3. Next, add the chickpeas and

pour in 250ml water. Stir the mixture well, cover the pan and let it simmer on a low heat for 5 minutes till the sauce thickens.

4. Turn the okra out into a serving bowl and top with chopped coriander and garam masala.

4. Serve this topped with garam masala, and with chopped coriander and green chilies.

Using a whisk, whip in the cumin, cayenne pepper, and salt, making sure they are well incorporated. 2. Stir in the shallot, cucumber, pepper, mint, and coriander and place the bowl in the fridge until needed (at least an hour).

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T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

travel MATTERS

Last year, Sean Mallia spent six months travelling slowly through Asia, bringing back fabulous photography and the inspiration for this feature. Travel is refreshing. It makes you slow down and see things differently. The situation in Malta was getting ugly and upsetting. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been too much greed, no morals, no sense of aesthetics. The general vibe felt bad. It seemed like the right time to travel. I had no commitments or debts, so I took this opportunity to see what else is out there. I had been to Thailand before but that was for work, not for leisure or discovery, and I had never travelled for several months at a time. We all think we know what Asia is like, but experiencing it first hand is totally different. Going to, say, a Thai restaurant gives you a taste of the culture, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s different to be there. I wanted to experience the culture and the lifestyle first hand, and to expand my photography portfolio.

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ARMCHAIR TRAVEL T&F

ISSUE 127 APRIL 2020

T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

Sgnor Sach Moun (spicy chicken soup) CAMBODIA

Cooking the chicken with the skin on will give this soup a much better flavour. If you’re using unskinned chicken, you can skip the first step. Serve this freshly cooked and piping hot.

Serves 4 · Cooking time 40 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1. First, prepare the unskinned chicken.

1 whole chicken, cut into pieces 1 medium white onion, sliced 1 stalk lemongrass, cut into 3 pieces and crushed • 1 teaspoon salt 5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 4 kaffir lime leaves 3 tablespoons rice • 1 teaspoon sugar 3 tablespoons fish sauce • juice of 1 lime 1 loose handful coriander, roughly chopped

Put it in a pot with enough water to cover it. Bring the pot to a boil and let it cook for 5 minutes. Drain the chicken and rinse it with fresh water. This step removes the excess fat.

5. Divide the chicken evenly between 2. Refill the pot with fresh water and

place it on a high heat. Add the rice, garlic, onion, and kaffir lime leaves and bring it to a boil. Let it cook on a high heat for five minutes.

TOPPING

5 spring onions, thinly sliced diagonally 1 generous handful Thai basil, roughly chopped 1-2 limes cut into wedges

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4. Add the lime juice, fish sauce and sugar, and season to taste with salt. Adjust the ingredients according to your taste. Let the mixture simmer for 10 minutes.

3. Now, add the chicken and let the pot continue to boil for five minutes. Then, turn the heat down and let it simmer for 30 minutes.

serving bowls and ladle in the liquid. Top with the chopped basil and coriander and serve accompanied by extra fish sauce and lime wedges.

T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

Food is a big part of culture in Asia. It’s what brings people together everywhere, especially in the streets. People interact over food, cooking rice, selling vegetables and fruit. It’s not just for tourists. Local people buy from each other. It’s a lifestyle and a livelihood. I still see Malta’s problems but I now have a different outlook. We take so many things for granted and we don’t value what we have. Our lives are luxurious compared to the way many people live. It frustrates me that we could do so much more here than exploit things for profit. We need a collective shift in perspective. Everyone should travel for a few weeks or months and see what is out there. It’s not possible right now, but maybe this is a good time to stop and think about what matters. Travelling slowly, experiencing culture – that’s something everyone should do at least once.

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ARMCHAIR TRAVEL T&F

Tofu curry with shan noodles MYANMAR

Use egg-free noodles for a vegan version of this dish.

Serves 4 · Preparation and Cooking time 50 minutes YOU WILL NEED

FOR THE TOPPING

400g tofu, extra firm 260 red onion, peeled and chopped 1 generous handful kale, shredded 24g garlic, finely chopped or minced 24g ginger, peeled and grated or minced 6 tablespoons tomato paste ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 2 teaspoons red chili powder 1 teaspoon soy sauce 170ml water (approximately) 950ml vegetable stock 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 520g noodles • salt • fresh lemon juice

200g cabbage, finely shredded 2 jalapeño peppers, sliced 400g chickpeas, roasted 1 handful peanuts, roasted and roughly chopped red chili flakes, fried garlic, fried • onions, fried spring onions, shredded lengthwise fresh coriander, chopped

1. Begin by making the tofu curry. You’ll

need to break up the block of tofu until it looks like scrambled eggs. It’s easiest if you do this using a couple of forks.

3. Now, add the ground spices, tomato paste, water, and soy sauce. Season with salt, bring the mixture to a boil and let it cook until it thickens. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside. 4. In a deep pot, heat the vegetable stock till it simmers. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a rolling boil, some salt and then add the noodles and cook them till they soften. While the noodles cook, add the kale to the vegetable stock and let it cook till done, then remove the leaves and transfer them to a side bowl. 5. Drain the noodles well and divide

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan. Then,

add the garlic, ginger, and onion with a pinch of salt and cook quickly until the onions soften. Add the shredded tofu and cook until all the water evaporates.

them between serving bowls. Spoon some curry over the noodles and top up with vegetable stock till the noodles are just covered. Squeeze some fresh lemon juice over the top and serve with the greens on the side.

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T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

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ARMCHAIR TRAVEL T&F

If you can’t find Thai basil, use a little bit of sweet basil and add a bit more star anise to the stew. Don’t be put off by the long cooking time. Most of it is for marinating and slow simmering, which leaves you free to do something else.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 180 minutes YOU WILL NEED

500-600g beef (brisket or chuck steak) cut into 3cm chunks 1 ½ tablespoons ginger, finely chopped or minced 2 ½ tablespoons fish sauce • 1½-2 stalks lemongrass 1 ¼ teaspoons five-spice powder • ¾ teaspoon brown sugar 5 cloves of garlic, finely chopped or minced • 3 tablespoons oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced • 4 tablespoons Thai basil leaves 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced diagonally into 3cm chunks 1-2 limes, unpeeled and cut into wedges • 475ml water 2 tablespoons coriander leaves, roughly chopped 1 piece star anise (more if you’re using sweet basil) ½ teaspoon ground black pepper • ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon chili powder • ½ teaspoon paprika 240ml coconut water • 1 ½ tablespoons soy sauce 1 ½ tablespoons chili oil (adjust the amount to taste) 2 tablespoons tomato paste 8 rice or egg noodles

1. In a bowl, mix the fish sauce with 1 minced clove of garlic,

the five-spice powder, the brown sugar and the ginger. Toss the beef in the mixture until it is well coated and let it marinate. 2. 25 minutes later, remove the woody outer parts of the lemongrass, chop 1/3 of the stems into 6cm pieces and chop the rest very finely. Heat 1 ½ tablespoons of oil in a large pot on a high heat, add the lemongrass stalks and let them infuse for about a minute. Next, add the rest of the garlic and lemongrass and let it cook for a couple of minutes. 3. Now, add some of the sliced onion, reserving about half a cupful for later. Let the pot simmer until the onion turns translucent. Add the marinated beef and cook it until it browns evenly all over. 4. Add the tomato paste, stir the mixture together, and let the pot simmer for 5 minutes. Then, add the water, coconut water, star anise (add a bit extra if you’re not using Thai basil leaves), the paprika and the chili powder. Stir.

Bok Kho spicy beef stew

VIETNAM

5. Turn up the heat to bring the mixture to a

boil and then turn it down to a simmer. Let the mixture simmer, uncovered, for an hour. 6. Next, add the carrots, soy sauce, salt and chili oil and let the

pot simmer for another 40 minutes, until it’s ready to serve. 7. Cook the noodles, following the package instructions, and divide them among the serving bowls. Ladle the stew over the top, removing any chunks of lemon grass or star anise. 8. Serve garnished with chopped coriander, Thai basil

and sliced onion with lime wedges on the side.

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T&F ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

Spicy Coconut Soup with Crab & Sea Bass THAILAND

Use a pestle and mortar to crush the herbs and spices. It will bring out and blend the flavours beautifully. Bird’s eye chilies – the small red kind – are very hot. If you prefer a mild spicy taste, add just a little bit of chili to the dish and serve the rest on the side.

Serves 4 · Preparation and Cooking time 25 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

1. Put the vegetable stock in a large pot.

1 whole crab • 1 cup coconut milk 1 sea bass, filleted (or any other white fish) 800ml vegetable stock • 1 coriander root ¼ tablespoon fresh coriander, chopped 1 shallot • 2 sticks of lemongrass 6 thin slices of galangal 1 ½ teaspoons fish sauce 1 ½ teaspoons lime juice ½ teaspoon granulated sugar 4 kaffir lime leaves, torn 1 or 2 bird’s eye chili peppers, chopped 1 teaspoon chili oil • ½ teaspoon salt

Add the salt and stir. Put the pot on a medium heat and bring it to a boil.

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2. Use a pestle and mortar to crush the shallot, lemongrass, galangal, kaffir leaves and coriander root together. Add the crushed mixture to the pan and let it boil for a couple of minutes.

4. Now, add the coconut milk and coconut flesh, and the fish sauce and lime juice. Stir the mixture and let it cook for another couple of minutes. 5. Simmer the fish fillets in some

of the liquid until properly cooked. This will take 3-4 minutes. 6. Just before serving, add the

3. Next, add the crab to the pot and

let it simmer on a medium heat until thoroughly cooked (about 20 minutes).

chopped chili and coriander to the main cooking pot and stir. 7. Ladle the soup into deep bowls. Add some of the cooked fish and crab meat and serve garnished with chili oil.

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FOOD FROM Artichokes can be served in a variety of ways, which can please the pickiest eater. At this time of the year, they are plentiful and cheap, which makes them good value too. Food: Michael Diacono, chef patron at Mezzodì, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, and Rubino, and Ryan Vella, Head chef at Mezzodì. Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi. Chiaroscuro photography: Brian Grech, assisted by Stephen Azzopardi

Caravaggio is famous for his beautiful chiaroscuro paintings. He was also notoriously temperamental and rather picky about how artichokes are cooked. On 26 April 1604, when dining in company in a restaurant at La Maddalena, he was served a dish of artichokes, half cooked in butter, the other half fried in oil. When he demanded to know which were which, the waiter, Pietro Antonio de Fosaccia, told the artist he could smell the artichokes to tell the difference. Enraged at de Fosaccia's reply, Caravaggio grabbed a dish and hit the hapless waiter in the face. He then got up and grabbed his friend's sword, sending the terrified de Fosaccia scurrying to the police to file a formal complaint, documenting an incident which would otherwise have been lost to history. 40

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THE HEART

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Ravioli with ricotta and artichoke, served with guanciale and mussel sauce This is a bit of a “cheffy” recipe which is well worth the time it takes. You can prepare the ravioli beforehand and freeze them until they’re needed.

Serves 4 Preparation, resting and cooking time: approximately 150 minutes Wine: Italian or Sardinian Vermentino

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FOR THE RAVIOLI PASTRY

350g 00 flour • 10 egg yolks 150g durum wheat flour or semolina 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

8. Brush the circumference of

the cut pastry with egg wash and fold it over to form a semi-circle. Press with your thumb and index finger to create a tight seal.

FOR THE RAVIOLI FILLING

3 carciofi alla Romana 250g firm ricotta cheese a good handful of parsley, finely chopped salt and pepper

9. With a slightly smaller

cutter, trim the edges of the ravioli to make them neater. 10. Put the ravioli in the lined dish,

TO ASSEMBLE THE RAVIOLI

2 eggs FOR THE SAUCE

1kg mussels, cleaned 150ml white wine • 100ml cream 75g butter, unsalted • 1 lime 100g guanciale, cut into strips 100ml vegetable stock • 50g samphire

1. Place the dry ingredients into a food

mixer and use the dough attachment. Alternatively, for small quantities of pastry, use a food processor. 2. Mix for 1 minute and then add the olive oil and the eggs. 3. Continue mixing on medium speed

until the dough comes together.

The English name artichoke, Italy’s carciofo, Spain’s alcachofa, and France’s artichaut can be traced back to medieval Andalusi Arabic al-karsufa which is still used in Maghrebi Arabic today.

4. Put the pastry in a box, cover it and let it rest for 1 hour. 5. To make the filling, drain the

artichokes well from the oil and then blend them with the ricotta and parsley in a food processor. Season with salt and pepper to taste and put the mixture in a piping bag.

making sure they don’t touch each other. If you’re not using them right away, I recommend that you open freeze them and then transfer them to another container. 11. To prepare the sauce, put the mussels and 100ml of white wine in a pot and bring it to a boil. Cover the pot and let it simmer for 5 minutes until the mussel shells open. 12. Reserve the liquid and take out the mussels from the shells for later use. 13. Bring the liquid to boil, add

the cream and whisk in the butter. Season with the juice of ½ a lime. Keep aside. 14. In a pan, slowly cook the

guanciale until it’s crispy. Add the rest of the white wine, reduce the liquid, then add the stock and mussel meat. TO SERVE

1. Boil ravioli in a pot with salted

with baking paper and dust it with flour.

water for 3-4 minutes. Transfer the cooked ravioli to the pan with the sauce and let them simmer gently till the sauce thickens slightly.

7. Roll the dough to a 2mm thickness, using a pasta maker. Using a pastry cutter, cut rounds of the pastry and fill them with some of the ricotta mixture.

2. Use a stick blender to froth the reserved mussel broth. Plate the ravioli with the sauce and garnish with the froth and some samphire.

6. To assemble the ravioli, line a dish

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Artichoke and Parmesan Risotto This rich and satisfying risotto is a great way to use the carciofi alla Romana.

Serves 4 · Preparation and cooking time 45 minutes · Wine: Brut Champagne or Prosecco

PARMESAN CRACKERS

8 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese ground black pepper PARMESAN CUSTARD

150ml cream • 150ml milk 75g grated Parmesan • 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 pinch of white pepper 1 large egg • 1 large egg yolk RISOTTO

350g Arborio or Carnaroli Rice 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 50ml white wine 3 carciofi alla Romana, cut into small cubes 1 litre artichoke stock (made by simply boiling the tough outer bracts) 150g grated Parmesan cheese 75g butter, cubed and at room temperature.

Parmesan crackers 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a large baking sheet with baking paper. 2. Spoon the grated Parmesan cheese onto the lined baking sheet, separating each tablespoonful from the next. Carefully pat down the cheese into rounds, making sure the rounds don’t touch each other. 3. Crack a generous amount of pepper over each mound of cheese and bake in the preheated oven until crispy and lightly golden (approximately 12 minutes).

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Parmesan custard 1. In a small saucepan, combine the cream with the milk, cheese, salt and pepper and cook over a moderately high heat until bubbles appear around the edge. Remove the pan from the heat, cover it and let the cream steep for 30 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 140°C. Pour the cream into a bowl and slowly whisk in the egg and yolk to form a custard. 3. Pour the custard into a small dish and set it in a roasting pan. Pour enough boiling water into the pan to reach halfway up the sides of the dish. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake the custard for 30-40 minutes, or until it sets. 4. Remove the pan from the oven and let the custard cool in the water bath for 5 minutes. Remove the custard from the pan.

Risotto 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a heavy pot over a medium heat and add the chopped onion. Once the onion is translucent, add the rice. Stir well for about 1 minute to coat in the oil and then add the cubed artichokes. Douse with the white wine and let it evaporate completely.

2. Now add half a cup of the stock and stir every now and then until it has all been absorbed by the rice. Carry on adding the rest of the stock gradually until you have used it all up. This will take about 20 mins. 3. Gently stir in the grated Parmesan cheese, then remove the pan from the heat and beat in the cubed butter 4. Serve the risotto on warm flat plates. Top each serving with Parmesan crisps and a spoonful of custard.

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Artichokes are edible thistles, domesticated in ancient times when they were savoured for their young leaves rather than the unopened flower heads which we enjoy today.

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Carciofi alla romana Carciofi alla romana are a classic dish that’s not too difficult to make. The finished artichokes keep for several days. Serve them as a starter or save them to make the other recipes.

Makes 6 · Cooking time 30-40 minutes · Wine: dry Sauvignon Blanc YOU WILL NEED

6 fresh globe artichokes, hearts only (use the bracts to make a stock for the risotto) 100ml extra virgin olive oil 4 cloves of garlic, crushed 100ml white wine 100ml vegetable stock or water 2 tablespoons chopped parsley salt and pepper FOR SERVING

6 salted anchovies, cleaned and filleted Salad leaves

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1. Put the artichokes, face down,

in a wide bottomed pot.

4. Add the chopped parsley and season to taste. Set aside to cool.

2. Add the olive oil, garlic, wine and stock, to partially cover the artichokes. They should not be submerged in the liquid.

5. Put the cooked artichokes

3. Bring everything to a boil, cover the pot and let it simmer for around 30 minutes or until the artichokes are tender. The cooking time varies according to the size of the artichokes and the time of the season.

6. To serve, arrange the carciofi on

into a container or jar with the cooled liquid. They can be kept in the fridge for up to 10 days.

the plate. Top with the cleaned, salted Anchovies, extra virgin olive oil and some salad leaves. Here we used mustard greens which have a lovely peppery taste.

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Globe Artichoke and Chicken pie Homemade pastry filled with a mix of seasonal artichokes and chicken cooked with a roux, these pies make a very satisfying meal. Serve them with creamy pureed potatoes and grilled baby gem lettuce.

Serves 4 · Preparation, resting and cooking time 150 minutes · Wine: Grüner Veltliner

SHORTCRUST PASTRY

500g flour • 1 teaspoon fine salt 200g unsalted butter (cut into cubes) • 75-100g water FILLING

500ml milk • ½ small teaspoon grated nutmeg 50g butter • 50g flour • salt and pepper 2 deboned chicken thighs (cut into small pieces) 2 carciofi alla romana, drained and cubed POMMES PURÉES

500g potatoes, rinsed and scrubbed 1 tablespoon salt • 200ml milk 200g butter, cut into cubes • 2 teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon finely ground white pepper TO SERVE

1 baby gem lettuce 1 tablespoon crushed hazelnuts 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

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Shortcrust pastry 1. Sift the flour and salt in a large bowl and add the cubes of butter. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until you have a mixture that resembles coarse breadcrumbs with no large lumps of butter remaining. Try to work quickly so that it does not become greasy. 2. Using a knife, stir in just enough of the cold water to bind the dough together. Wrap the dough in clingfilm and chill for 10-15 minutes before using. 3. Alternatively, put the flour, butter and salt in the food processor and pulse until the fat is rubbed into the flour. 4. With the motor running, gradually

add the water through the funnel until the dough comes together. Add only enough water to bind the pastry, and then stop. Wrap the dough in clingfilm and chill for 30 minutes before using.

Pie filling 1. Gently bring 500ml whole milk to the boil in a small saucepan, with grated nutmeg to taste. 2. Melt 50g butter in another saucepan, then add 50g plain flour. Stir the mixture continuously until a paste forms. This is called a roux. Continue cooking for 2 minutes. 3. Add the infused milk to the roux gradually, stirring as you go, until you get a smooth sauce. Cook for 5-10 mins, stirring continuously, until the sauce has thickened. Season to taste. 4. In a separate pan, fry the cut chicken thighs in some olive oil and season to taste. Mix the chicken and the artichokes with the sauce and let the mixture cool down. 5. Lightly grease and flour 4 dariole

moulds. Roll out half the shortcrust pastry to 2mm thickness and cut according to the mould’s size. 6. Line the moulds with pastry,

leaving an overhang. Fill the pies with the chicken mixture.

7. Roll out the rest of the pastry and cut it into long strips. Cover the top of the pies with a trellis pattern. Alternatively, cut rounds of pastry and close off the pies. 8. Press down on the top of the

pies to seal the edges and use a sharp knife to cut off the extra dough. Chill the pies till needed. Pommes purées 1. Place the potatoes in a single layer

in a large pot. Cover with water and season with one tablespoon of salt. Place the pot over medium heat and let it simmer for 40-45 minutes or until the potatoes are easily pierced with a knife. 2. Once the potatoes are cooked, remove them from the water and let them cool slightly. Discard the cooking water. 3. Once the potatoes are cool enough to handle, use a paring knife to remove their skins. Put the potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer into a mixing bowl. Set aside. 4. Place the milk into the pot and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the butter a few chunks at a time until it is well incorporated. 5. Once the butter is melted, add the

riced potatoes and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, stir to incorporate. Once smooth, season with two teaspoons of salt and white pepper. To serve 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Brush the tops of the pies with egg wash and cook them for 30 minutes or until the pie is easily removed from the mould. 3. While the pie is cooking, pre-heat a griddle pan. Cut the baby gem lettuce into quarters, season with salt and olive oil and lightly grill. 4. When finished, lightly dress the lettuce with more olive oil and crushed hazelnuts. 5. Serve the pies with a neat

dollop of pommes purées and the grilled lettuce on the side.

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Stuffed Globe Artichokes Michael says: “This is a twist on one of my mother’s recipes. She normally stuffs the artichokes with a mix of minced beef and pork. I changed this to Maltese sausage for a stronger taste.”

Serves 6 · Preparation and cooking time: 120 minutes Wine: Txakoli (a slightly sparkling, very dry white wine from Basque country in Spain), or a dry, chilled Manzanilla Sherry

YOU WILL NEED

4 fresh Maltese sausages a good handful of parsley, chopped 3 cups fresh breadcrumbs 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan pepper 2 eggs 4 large fresh globe artichokes seasoned flour to coat extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 glasses white wine 2 large tomatoes, cubed 2 fresh bayleaves some artichoke stock or water as needed salt and pepper crushed pistachio nuts to garnish

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1. Remove the skins from the sausages

and place the meat into a mixing bowl. Add the chopped parsley. breadcrumbs, garlic and cheese. Season with pepper. (I normally find that Maltese sausage is salty enough). Add the eggs then mix well till everything is incorporated. Keep aside. 2. Remove the outer bracts of the artichokes and scoop out the choke. Peel the stem, then transfer the artichokes to a bowl filled with water acidulated with some lemon juice.

3. Boil the discarded bracts till tender, keep the stock for risotto and scrape the bracts. You can use the scraped flesh in pasta sauces. 4. Fill the artichokes with the stuffing, pressing it down well. Shape the leftover stuffing into balls. 5. Roll the artichokes and stuffing

balls in seasoned flour.

IN SEASON T&F

6. Heat a good glug of extra-virgin olive

8. Add the chopped tomatoes,

oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Fry the artichokes gently till golden on all sides, then remove them and keep aside on a plate. Fry the balls till they turn golden and keep them aside.

bay leaves and about three cups of stock or water. Season, cover and lower the heat to a very gentle simmer. Cook for 30 minutes, checking on them every so often.

7. Add the chopped onion and garlic

9. Serve these garnished

to the same pot and stir fry, scraping the bottom to dislodge as much of the delicious stuck bits as possible. When the onion is translucent, return the artichokes and stuffing balls to the pot. Add the wine and let it evaporate.

with crushed pistachio nuts and with some mashed potatoes or soft polenta.

To keep artichokes fresh for a couple of days, trim the ends of the stalks and stand the artichokes in a jug filled with water. ISSUE 127 APRIL 2020

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Crudo di Carciofi e Gamberi Clean and fresh tastes make for a great starter and this one is really simple to make. Serve it with chunks of fresh, crusty Maltese bread to mop up the juices.

Serves 4 Preparation time: 25 minutes Wine: Maltese dry Girgentina

YOU WILL NEED

4 fresh globe artichokes, hearts only juice of 1 lemon 24 fresh local red prawns, peeled 2 blood oranges, segmented 1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced fresh fennel or dill flowers chives, chopped salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil

Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, Mezzodi’, and Rubino will reopen as soon as circumstances allow. Meanwhile, Giuseppi’s and Rubino will deliver fresh and frozen family meals to your door.

and transfer them to a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and dress with lemon juice.

Giuseppi’s collection/home delivery is on Wednesdays (order by Monday) and Saturdays (order by Thursday). Orders can be collected from the front porch of Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro in Salina or delivered to your door at no extra charge. For the latest menu, see Facebook: @ giuseppisrestaurant

2. To serve, simply assemble all the ingredients decoratively in a large serving platter or 4 individual plates.

Order by email on info@giuseppisrestaurant.com or via text on 99493579 or 99407633.

3. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and serve at once.

Rubino’s home deliveries are from 10am onwards on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. For the latest menu, see Facebook: @RubinoRestaurantValletta. Order through Facebook or on WhatsApp on 79706610.

1. Just before serving, slice the artichokes thinly

HOME DELIVERY BY GIUSEPPI’S AND RUBINO

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T&F WINE

DINING IN BORDEAUX Food is best enjoyed when paired with the right wine. In Bordeaux, it’s best to reverse that and pair the food to the wine. Text and photography: Andrew Azzopardi

n my last tr ip to Bordeaux, just a few weeks back, the hot topic of conversation centred around the effects of global warming, the monster marketing of natural and organic wines, and how the introduction of bats to the vineyard can take it to the next step in becoming fully sustainable. Our host, James, forms part of the 6th generation of one of the longest standing négociants in Margaux. His charisma is magnetic and he speaks about wine and food with great zeal and holding true to what Julia Child once said, “People who love to eat are always the best people.” Being hosted to lunch by a négociant is unique. Unlike invitations from producers outside Bordeaux, who typically only serve wines from their estate during a meal, négociants will invariably serve a variety of their favourite wines. The reason is that, contrary to all other wine-producing areas in the world, the best Châteaux in Bordeaux exclusively sell their wines to a few of their preferred négociants, supposedly allowing the Chateaux to remain solely focused on producing the best wine they can, leaving the sales, marketing and distribution to the négociant. James ushered us into main dining room of Château Angludet, where the sweet smell of burning wood from the grand-looking fireplace instantly sent me down memory lane to my childhood days. Living with a pyromaniac, I would often wake to the smell of burning wood when my dad would light the fireplace on most cold January mornings while my mum would invariably rush to remove the nearby woollen carpets. The huge fireplace at Angludet was the main attraction of the dining-room where only a round, expertly-laid table and sideboard were placed in front of it. James, or Jimmy as he preferred being called, brought the wine over to the table – an unconventional, yet mouth-watering, 2015 “Le G de Guiraud” blanc by Château Guiraud, who are better known for their sweet wines from Sauternes. This dry, white wine surprisingly punched way above its

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weight in terms of complexity, structure and finesse. The wine, partly matured in oak barrels, was rich in flavour, yet fresh enough to whet our appetite. It wasn’t too long before the soft-spoken waiter served us a huge slab of foie gras gently sprinkled with Maldon sea salt, alongside thin slices of cured meat accompanied by a simple side salad. The foie gras was rich and pure in flavour while the cured meat perfectly elevated the dish due to the saltiness cutting through the fattiness of the liver. The first bottle of 2001 Château Angludet was unfortunately corked but was quickly replaced by a 2011 Alter Ego, by Château Palmer. This was a classy wine that was ready to drink. It didn’t require more aging. The tannins were grippy at first, but quickly softened to reveal the pure and focused fruit supported by flavours of cedar, slight pencil-shavings and supple earthy flavours. The wine was going down so well that an interesting conversation about the underrated 2011 vintage ensued. Before we could disagree on anything, two of the most enormous steaks I have ever seen were brought out and left on the sideboard. James carefully laid them on a rack and placed them on top of the smouldering wood in the fireplace. As we waited, the next wine was served to us blind. Already poured into a decanter, we were asked to guess the wine and the correct vintage – a fun, yet daunting experience. Sometimes even the best sommeliers get it wrong. Well at least I had a head start. Knowing that I was in Bordeaux, this must be from the area. Or was it? From the first sip I was sure it was a Bordeaux, and a spectacular one at that. The wine was complex and elegant with incredible depth and surprisingly fresh, despite the orange rim in the glass which gave away its maturity. The finest scents of cigar box, the cool smell of a wet forest floor after the rains, freshly picked mushroom and soft Italian leather followed by a beautiful backbone of sweet blackberry, toast and a hint of mint. The length was fabulously long with a variety of flavours taking turns for minutes on end. Every sip of the wine was a different but equally spectacular experience.

WINE T&F

My initial guess was 1985 Château Margaux. I was wrong. It was a 1983 Château Palmer which James admitted having decanted for three hours beforehand to make sure it was at its peak when served. Renowned wine critic Jancis Robinson accurately describes this wine as “gentle and gorgeous”. Maybe it was the ambience, my mood, or the most ethereal 1983 Château Palmer it was paired with, but the simply prepared barbeque beef was flawless – flavourful and smoky, yet astonishingly tender. Jimmy’s daughter, Daisy, explained that the beef is known as Bazas beef. It is a local grass and grain-fed breed that is sold by only 13 approved butchers across Bordeaux, and one happened to be just a few kilometres up the road from Château Angludet. This was just my kind of meal, with no excessive fuss but a few great bottles of wine, simple, wholesome food and a group of passionate food and wine afficionados. Jean and Paul who recently joined one of the newer négociants invited us over for dinner at one of the local eateries where they would often meet friends. When we arrived, both were already sitting at the table with three bottles of wine strategically placed, backwards-facing at the end of the table, with the labels out of sight. Jean ordered a huge tray of plump oysters freshly brought in from Atlantic-facing Arcachon Bay. These oysters were propelled to the forefront of gourmet food around 56 A.D. when the oysterobsessed Romans had discovered that the Meduli tribe collected the best oysters from around the Médoc area. A simple squeeze of lemon, a few drops of the typical Bordelais mignonette sauce and I was happily slurping away on some of the juiciest oysters I have ever tasted. The depth of flavour was unique. I usually find that the piquant mignonette sauce made of finely chopped shallots and vinegar overpowers the beautiful fresh and salty taste of the sea, but this one was a perfect balance of sweetness, spice and acidity that cut right through the fattiness of the oysters. The white wine Jean had chosen was a 2007 Château Malartic-Lagravière from Pessac-Leognan. The 13-year old blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon was delightful. It was lively with great depth of citrus, cream and honey, with a flinty touch which paired nicely with the oysters. It’s such a pity that Bordeaux blanc is so underrated. At easily over 50 Euros a bottle, these wines are not cheap but serious enough to compete with the finest whites in the world – a classy balancing act between the freshness and intensity of the Sauvignon Blanc and the creamy smokiness of the Sémillon that shines through without taking centre stage. Not only are these wines of tremendous quality, but they can also age extremely well. This 2007 was shining bright despite its age and I’d even say it has a few more years of life to offer. For the main course, Jean suggested the typical local Entrecôte à la Bordelaise. It was served in a red wine and butter sauce with the bone-marrow sitting proudly at the top of the dish. This was pure comfort food screaming for a full-bodied Bordeaux wine to stand up to the flavours. Jean expertly chose a formidable 1990 Les Forts de Latour, often referred to as the second wine of the famous first growth Château Latour from the south-eastern tip

of Pauillac, but now improved so much it is considered a separate formidable wine with its own character. Interestingly, Château Latour, though still selling through the négociant , have recently stopped selling their wines en-primeur (a method of purchasing wines early while the wine is still in the barrel and only receiving it 12 - 24 months later once bottled). Since 2012, the highly acclaimed first growth and second wine Les forts de Latour are only sold and released once they are ready to drink. The first vintage to be released in this way is the 2012, which is set to be released this year. The 1990 Les Forts de Latour was lusciously ripe, powerful and fully mature. It still had the power, concentration and grip to counter the full-on flavours from the rich and buttery Entrecôte and accompanying fries cooked in beef fat. The wine, considered the best since 1982, went down too fast so we opened the 1983 Château Rauzan-Ségla sooner than we had hoped. Unfortunately, it was past its best years and simply couldn’t pack the punch it used to – a stark reminder that sometimes even great wines such as Château Rauzan-Ségla shouldn’t be kept in your wine-cave ‘ad eternum’. The Château was not in the best of states back in 1983, when Professor Emile Peynaud became their primary consulting oenologist tasked with bringing the winery to the modern, state of the art winery it is now. It was refurbished in 1986 and again in 1996, after being purchased by the owners of Chanel in April 1994. The wines have improved considerably over the years, such that 2015 and 2016 are considered their best vintages to date. No dinner is complete without the final course, be it a dessert, chocolate block or a little canalé, a typical dome-shaped sweet native of Bordeaux, with a soft and chewy centre and a caramelised crunchy exterior. Said to have been made from all the left-over egg yolks which were left unused from fining (an agent to reduce aggressive tannins and clarify wine) the wines in Bordeaux, this mouthful of goodness is the perfect ending to a rich meal. The bottle of 1989 Château D’Yquem Jean proudly placed in front of me is the only Sauternes classified as a “superior first growth” in the 1855 classification and it’s only once you taste it that you’ll understand. It explains the joy and beauty of sweet wines in one sip with riveting acidity and a complex symphony of flavours includiong peach, honey, apricot, vanilla, beeswax, quince, spice and floral marmalade. I was still tasting the depth and breadth of the intense flavours for more than ten minutes after each sip. The wine has the potential to age and can fetch some of the most ridiculous prices, even for Bordeaux. Setting a record price tag of over 100,000 euros for a bottle dating back to 1811, this bottle of golden goodness should be on every winedrinker’s bucket-list. I kept tasting the honeyed goodness during the beautiful walk through the city of Bordeaux, passing the tens of wine merchant shops, the beautiful gothic churches, the glorious park and the artisan cheese shops dotted along the avenue all the way back to the hotel. Bordeaux wines are unquestionably good, but the charismatic people, diverse culture and passion for food and wine is what makes me want to go back to such a magical place. n

The wine has the potential to age and can fetch some of the most ridiculous prices, even for Bordeaux.

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T&F INTERIORS

DESIGNING BY

DOING

The design of a boutique hotel in Valletta was as much a journey as a destination. Design: Carlo Schembri Design Team â&#x20AC;¢ Photography: Alan Carville

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INTERIORS T&F

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T&F INTERIORS

he easiest approach is to play safe, using neutral colours without mixing materials or styles. That philosophy is useful when designing an interior for an ever-changing series of occupants, because the end is in sight from the beginning and everyone knows what to expect.

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p Exposed stonework, planters, and woven furniture give the enclosed courtyard the feel of an indoor garden. q In "Ursula's Lounge", trompe l'oeil wallpaper wraps around two sides of the room and a bevelled mirror wall, anchored by a functioning marble fireplace, gives the space a roomy yet intimate feel.

T&F INTERIORS

more adventurous approach is to explore ideas during the design phase itself, where the form and function of an object can push the design process in new and unexpected directions. The result is a personal, layered look, the sort that usually evolves over the years, when collections of objects and ornaments, furnishings and furniture accumulate over a lifetime of travel and exploration, or are handed down through the generations.

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p A mirrored wall running the length of one side of the room opens up the space visually. The smooth, inlaid wood, polished marble flooring and bevelled mirror panelling give the space a luxurious feel. q Each bedroom is individually designed with its own particular character, mixing traditional elements with contemporary comfort.

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Flooring: Palazzo Consiglia KARAMAN AND BLACK AND GOLD MARBLE

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta

www.halmannvella.com T: (+356) 21 433 636

E: info@halmannvella.com

T&F INTERIORS

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INTERIORS T&F

p In the lounge area next to the main breakfast room, the smooth marble floor contrasts with the texture of the exposed stone walls and ceiling. The palette is subtle with earthy accents. t The exposed stone walls and arched ceiling and patterned floor tiles give the breakfast room a traditional feel. The furniture is a mix of classic styles and contemporary lines.

his is what drove the redesign of this Valletta palazzo as a boutique hotel. There were initial plans for the space and mood boards for the interiors but the detailing was a process of discovery. “With this approach, it is very difficult to show a client what you’re going to do because the doing is exploring,” says Carlo Schembri, who led the design project. Palazzo Consiglia sits in St Ursula Street, on Valletta’s east side. As with many of Valletta’s larger residential buildings, its rooms encircled an open courtyard with a shared well, the front part of the house overlay a rock-cut basement which once served as a cooler for food storage, and the rooms on both floors were arranged en filade. A few changes had to be introduced to bring the building up to contemporary standards, while keeping within the limits of planning and conservation rules. In keeping with conservation rules, all the new accretions are distinct and reversible, leaving the fabric of the original building intact.

it is very difficult to show a client what you’re going to do because the doing is exploring

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T&F INTERIORS

p The rooftop pool is surrounded by a timber sundeck. Planters provide privacy on one side with a view over St Roque Church, and a glass wall allows uninterrupted views over the surrounding roofscape and the harbour. u Furniture and furnishings were chosen to give each bedroom a homely, welcoming feel. Colour accents contrast with the natural textures of the wooden floor and furniture.

ne of the two doors which leads to the street is used as the main entrance to the building. In the second doorway, a clear glass sheet was installed in front of the door panels, which are left open bringing light into the lounge area. To facilitate private access to the rooms on the upper levels, a custom-designed steel passarella was installed on each floor and a glass and steel lift shaft installed at the far end of the courtyard. Each bedroom was individually designed according to its particular position, shape, space, and light. The basic canvas of each room was dressed in a variety of paint colours and wallpaper designs, and filled with customised soft furnishings and a mix of vintage and contemporary furniture and fittings.

The basic canvas of each room was dressed in a variety of paint colours and wallpaper design. 66

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T&F INTERIORS

he basement was excavated further inwards, opening up the space all the way to a bell-shaped well at the back of the building which was converted into a heated indoor linked to an in-house spa. The stonework which surrounded the opening to the well was moved from the back of the courtyard to a sidewall and converted into a live fireplace. Glass panels set into the courtyard floor allow natural light to filter down into the basement area. Planters and woven furniture give the courtyard a relaxed, gardenlike feel. There are flashes of Maltainspired design elements: traditional floor tiles in the breakfast room, the hooded chairs in the courtyard inspired by the ghonella, large black and white photographs of Valletta scenes by Paul Borg Olivier. The imaginative, eclectic style and lack of uniformity gives the hotel a personalised feel, as though this is a private home furnished by collectors. n

t A bell-shaped well has been converted into a heated indoor pool, connected to the in-house spa.

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T&F PROMOTION

Le Lab by Legrand Concept Store at Elektra Ltd

Legrand Wiring Accessories All the expertise of the Legrand Group has been brought into play at Elektra Ltd in Qormi to offer a unique selection of wiring accessory ranges, in terms of both finish and function, covering all requirements in all sectors of the residential and commercial markets. With four main ranges, Belanko, Mallia, Synergy and Arteor, customers can choose from various styles and price points without compromising safety, quality and reliability.

he Arteor range is the crown jewel of the Legrand brand, boasting a range of modular, carefully crafted masterpieces to give any space an elegant yet discrete look, adding to the design without distracting attention. With a complete range of functions and the choice of round or square rockers and modules, there is a vast range of finishes: neutral, brushed metal, mirrored finish, signature and also a wood finish. Arteor MyHome_Up, the BUS-technology based home automation system, lets you create a fully connected home which meets the highest standards: from fully customised scenarios through to music streaming, door entry function, temperature management and much more.

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ynergy is a carefullydesigned range. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sub-ranges consist of; the Synergy White, defined by a perfect harmony of form and functions, to the clean outlines with no visible screws, cold and warm tones as well as glossy and brushed surfaces which characterise the Synergy Sleek Design. For unparalleled durability and reliability, Synergy Metalclad is an all-weather series. Keeping pace with modern lifestyles, it offers functions that make sure your safety and energy efficiency goals are met. Among other innovations, the new Synergy BS 13A socket with USB Type-A and USB Type-Câ&#x201E;˘ chargers, make possible highspeed charging for elevated convenience. Synergy Grid extends the appeal of the Synergy range even further, providing the flexibility you need to create multi-function, 1 to 24 gang plates which seamlessly integrate with the style and needs of your installation.

PROMOTION T&F

& Home Automation W

ith the Belanko range, simplicity is beauty. Belanko switches perform exactly the way you expect them to. This range offers a choice between large rocker switches as well as the classic small rocker switch. Available in three colours – white, dark grey and brown – the range is synonymous with enhanced comfort at an accessible price point.

ixing colours is a breeze with the Mallia range, as there is one for every style and personality. From classic White, contemporary Silver, lustrous Pearl, supple Copper, muscular Bronze, mysterious Dark Silver as well as the new additions Matt Black and Champagne. Whether you are in the mood to pack in some colours and spice things up or keep it pure and simple for a touch of authenticity, Mallia presents the freedom to go with full colour or mix and match.

ther solutions offered by Legrand in the realm of home automation include Vantage as well as Hotel solutions. Vantage delivers a no-compromise approach to simplifying the complex, providing scalable futureready systems and user friendly interfaces for the homeowner. The control of various aspects of the home, from lighting to audio as well as temperature controls, is possible through this state-of-the-art system. Elektra Ltd as a proud partner of the international brand, and recently inaugurated the Le Lab by Legrand Concept Store at its premises in Mill Street, Qormi. The concept store showcases all the wiring accessory ranges discussed above, together with the home automation systems. The displays are also interactive, allowing the customer the possibility of trying out these beautifully crafted products.

Even though Elektra Ltd's retail activity has been restricted due to the Covid-19 crisis, they are able to assist customers and collaborators by email, telecom or by setting up an online video consultation. Contact 2546 3000, info@elektra.com.mt or get in touch through the company’s social media pages.

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T&F RENOVATION

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RENOVATION T&F

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX The renovation of a small house in a village core shows that, even a compact living space has big potential Architecture and interior design: Archi+ Photography: Brian Grech

he small, old house in the heart of one of Malta’s villages came with a specific brief: minimise internal interventions, and make it habitable for a series of visitors. Unusually, the house owners gave their architects a free hand in the concept development and design and then executed the plans themselves, respecting them down to the last detail.

The house is in a village core designated as an urban conservation area, which sets limits on the type and extent of possible intervention. “Our work is context related,” says Anthea Huber, a partner in the architecture firm Archi+. “In this case the context for the interior was characterised by the existing old fabric of the house. This played a huge part in the language we developed for the project.”

“Once we saw the old fabric of the house, we wanted to incorporate a contemporary look while conserving old elements like the traditional patterned-tile flooring, and other architectural features,” says Daphne Bugeja, the architect who led the design project. The idea was for the house to instantly have a sense of place and for anyone who visits to feel that they are part of the village community.

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T&F RENOVATION

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RENOVATION T&F

he biggest challenge was space and how to distribute and use it efficiently. The internal volume is stacked vertically, which meant the various floors could be designed for separate uses. The main living space is on the ground level, bedrooms were placed on the first floor and the roof was designed as an outdoor living area. The kitchen and dining area are on the lower level. The basement had been used as a storeroom but there was a small stone structure there – a high bench with a space beneath that might have included an oven – that indicated the area may have been used as a kitchen in the past. As there was

no natural light, an opening was inserted into the basement ceiling and glassed in, to draw in light and create a visual bridge with the living room above. This arrangement sets the kitchen apart from the rest of the living area, while still keeping it connected. In effect, the living area at street level acts as a buffer between the “active” space in the kitchen and the sleeping area upstairs. The customdesigned shelving and wooden panelling gives the living area a contemporary feel. The colour scheme used throughout the house is neutral, which allows different visitors to project their own personality onto the space and feel that it is theirs.

p The kitchen and dining area in the basement blend contemporary design with the traditional bare-stone context.

q Walls were treated with hydraulic lime which creates an interesting effect. The floor is in polished concrete.

The look is contemporary, but the design incorporates traditional details.

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T&F RENOVATION

The idea was for the house to instantly have a sense of place and for anyone who visits to feel that they are part of the village community.

ontemporary materials were used to prevent rising damp, a persistent problem in old buildings. Raised flooring in the basement prevents damp from seeping into the room from the ground beneath and the hydraulic lime finish used on the walls has an uneven texture which allows the walls to “breathe”, creating an interesting visual effect. In the bedrooms, the design challenge was incorporating the varied functions: sleeping space, wardrobe, ensuite bathroom. The thick walls provided part of the design solution: recesses were cut into the walls, providing extra space for storage. The look is contemporary, but the architects’ design incorporates traditional details like zokklatura, the dark strip that runs along the bottom of the wall. The roof area was planned to keep the design as clean as possible. Since no extension could be built the services were hidden behind a wooden frame and flooring. Part of the roof floor was covered in concrete and a bench built along one side. Visitors can now experience a 270° view over the surrounding roofscape. n

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p The rooftop living area has a 270º view over the surrounding roofscape.

The

Maltese Festa - Series IV This collection, a continuation of the Maltese Festa Series, features St.Joseph’s processional statues from various churches around Malta and Gozo.

*Issue Includes: Binder Price:

Maltese Festa Series IV Issue of 20 stamps;

inc. VAT

20 Sheets;

€10

20 Illustrated cards; 20 Envelopes

*Issue Price:

€65 inc. VAT

Philatelic Bureau, MaltaPost p.l.c., 305, Qormi Road, Marsa MTP 1001, Malta

www.maltaphilately.com | info@maltaphilately.com | (+356) 2596 1740

T&F TRENDS

p Donatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino 2017. This wine has a ruby red color with notes of vanilla, berries, and spices which provide a long delightful finish. It has an intense yet harmonious palate with wonderfully balanced tannins and is perfectly paired with Fassona Beef Tagliata, Pecorino Toscano, and Pasta with Wild Boar Ragù. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. T: +356 2156 3231 E: viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt W: www.viniecapricci.com

p Meridiana Wine Estate’s Fenici White (Chardonnay/Vermentino/ Viognier), Fenici Red (Merlot/Cabernet/Syrah) and Fenici Rosé (Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah) are fast becoming a popular choice among wine lovers. All three wines are produced using only selected grapes grown in Malta, enjoying DOK classification. Their freshness, fruitiness and elegance makes them a perfect choice with salads, pasta, pizza and seafood. The Fenici range offers great quality and excellent value for money. The 2019 vintages of the Fenici White and Fenici Rose are now available. Visit www.meridiana.com.mt for more information on the full range of Meridiana’s wines. Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading Ltd, Wine & Spirit Merchants, Stadium Street, Gzira. Call +356 79093197 or email info@srausi.com, www.srausi.com.mt

Dingle Gin is distilled and bottled in Dingle, Co. Kerry, where the air is fresh, just like our gin. The combination of 13 meticulously selected botanicals creates the unique flavour profile of the World’s Best Gin. Dingle Gin was awarded World’s Best London Dry Gin and the overall award for World’s Best Gin 2019 at the World Gin Awards 2019. Trade enquiries: info@viviancorp.com or 2258 8600

Marnisi Organic. Marsovin’s MARNISI is the first Maltese wine falling in the premium wine category to be certified and awarded the official seal of ‘Organic Wine’. The 8.5 ha Marnisi Estate is situated near Marsaxlokk in the South of Malta. Marnisi is a blend of the 3 grape varieties on this estate and is made from 100% organically grown grapes which include over 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, about 30% Merlot and smaller quantities of Cabernet Franc. This wine has deep colour intensity, aromas and flavours of a black fruit character with complex hints of leather, smoke and spice. Twelve months ageing in French oak barrels give it a velvety finish on the palate and excellent ageing potential.

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p Pascual Yogikids Yogurt New Peach Flavour. Children need a variety of nutritious foods and regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Yogikids is designed for children from one year of age, and that is why special care has been taken in developing a nutritious product. Pascual Yogikids Yoghurt in Peach is a good source of calcium which promotes the growth and development of bones and teeth. It is also high in Vitamin A and D which helps strengthen the immune system. Pascual products may be either chilled or stored at room temperature since they are made to last (long-life). Pascual Yogikids Yoghurt is made without colourings and preservatives and is now also available in a larger cup size of 125g.

DESIGN T&F

p Aspen Collection! This collection of porcelain stoneware was created from a selection of strongly textured natural stones. This tile is designed for both indoor and outdoor use and available in snow, sand, sand moon, rock grey, oxide and basalt. Sizes: 10x30, 30x60, 60x60, 60x120 or 100x100. Available from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara

p Silestone is an engineered stone surface considered to be one of the leaders in the world when it comes to kitchen-top materials. It is a compound, made of 93% natural quartz mixed with a resin binder, which is also a natural material, making this material exceptionally hard, resilient, eco-friendly and flawless. Its strength, combined with its timeless beauty and elegance, make it a superior choice for any new kitchen surface. The main advantages are its guaranteed quality and the fact that it resists stains, acids, scratches and impact. It also provides peace of mind in terms of cleanliness and hygiene. Apart from being nonporous, it is the first and only countertop to have anti-microbial protection which fights the growth of mould and mildew as well as other odour-causing bacteria on its surface. Halmann Vella is the exclusive supplier of Silestone quartz kitchen-tops in Malta. With over 60 colours available, you are more than spoilt for choice. Feeling lost? Have a look at Halmann Vella’s TOP SELECTIONS – a pick of the most popular colours depending on the quartz colour you’d like to go for: www.halmannvella. com/kitchen-tops. Pictured: Pulsar, one of the Top Solutions at Halmann Vella. t The industrial Hoxton Cabinet by Rivièra Maison has a warm feel thanks to the combination of recycled ash wood and metal. It also looks goodwhen you half open the sliding doors. At Joinwell, we love adding a touch of velvet to an industrial look. Deep and warm tones such as dark blue or deep green give a rich look to this modern interior.

p Butlers steps into spring with the most stylish outdoor furniture to complete your garden and patio. Fresh and vibrant-coloured ranges leave you spoilt for choice. Celebrate the perfect weather together with your loved ones. Butlers, Tower Road, Sliema. facebook.com/butlersmalta

p GROUNDPIECE - an undeniable best-seller from the Flexform collection. Groundpiece has transformed the very concept of the sofa, introducing several innovations. First of all, it is a deconstructed line with new proportions – the Groundpiece sofa is low and deep, designed as a more relaxed and casual approach to seating. Groundpiece embodies the quintessence of Flexform comfort and is exceptionally inviting thanks to the amply-sized goose-down cushions. Available exclusively from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara.

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T&F IN SEASON

Vincent Van Gogh painted Almond Blossom shortly before his death in 1890 and gifted the painting to his nephew. It is now part of the collection of the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. Almond fruit: Louz ahdar – try them raw and dipped in salt, or pickled and tossed in salad.

GREEN ALMONDS

The lovely young, green almond heralds the arrival of spring in the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The fruits are just as delicious – or perhaps more so – as the nuts they eventually mature into. Feature by Megan Mallia Green almonds, or louz ahdar, are essentially unripe almonds. Picked too early, there would not be much in way of a nut within their soft green outer coating. Picked too late they would have already begun evolving into the tough-shelled nuts that are more familiar. The perfect green almond has a tender, unblemished outer skin, and a clear, jelly-like centre which, upon reaching maturity, turns into a hard, white nut encased in a brown skin. It is not easy to find green almonds on the market here in Malta. If you are fortunate enough to have your own sweet – not bitter – almond tree, or know someone who has an orchard, collect the green fruit when they are still tender. Green almonds are piquant and tart in taste, with a pleasant crunch. Once harvested, they can be rinsed and eaten immediately, or else pickled and tossed with salads. They make an exciting addition to the appetiser table, but make an equally good snack. In Lebanon, they are traditionally eaten raw and dipped in salt. The almond tree belongs to the same botanical family, the prunus, as the peach, evident in the fuzzy outer skin of the green almond that is characteristic of the peach. Both the almond and peach tree share the beautiful blossoms that paint gardens and orchards white and pink. In 1890, Vincent Van Gogh iconised the almond blossom in an oil painting, simply titled Almond Blossom. He gifted it to his new-born nephew, who was named after him. The wide- and sprawling-branched, painted tree was a celebration of family life, and a representation of rebirth and hope for the future. The symbol of hope in almond blossom resonates throughout literature, too, with Edwin Arnold writing: “Almond blossom, sent to teach us that the spring days soon will reach us.” n

We’re taking a break over Easter but The next issue of

will be out soon with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

ISSUE 127 MARCH 2020

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt

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