TASTE&FLAIR JUNE 2021 ISSUE No138 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 138 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination

Summery food, fine wine, heritage gardens, architecture & design

JUNE 2021

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara

T. 2546 4000 info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

GRAPHITE GREY

FORM, FUNCTION AND FRESHNESS Graphite grey is the new flagship of built-in appliances boasting a fresh look. Turn your kitchen into a powerhouse of functionality while boasting the silky smoothness of this lovely shade. Let NEFF surprise and impress you at every glance.

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL

JUNE 2021

Welcome A

s this issue goes to print, the skies are dull and it’s pouring with rain. Unexpected wet weather in late spring brings welcome relief. Colours are sharper and brighter, the air feels fresh, and dust and debris are washed away. But dull weather also calls for something to lighten the mood. Claire Borg’s gorgeous salads are a firework burst of colour, blending the best of seasonal produce with spices and tastes from around the world. In Michael Diacono’s annual ode to pasta, as he puts it, the versatile everyday ingredient is cooked up into a symphony of taste and texture that turns an ordinary meal into something special. Reem Kassis’s contemporary take on traditional Arab food is infused with warmth, weaving together cultural history and personal memory, evoking the welcoming hospitality of her family home. In our design pages, we take a look inside a traditional village house once occupied by a farmer and reimagined as a family home, and a newly built flat where luxury and elegance come together in a timeless interior. We hope you enjoy this issue. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Michael Diacono’s Strozzapreti bil-pesto tal-karfus. See feature starting on page 28. Photograph: Brian Grech

ISSUE 138 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination

Summery food, fine wine, heritage gardens, architecture & design

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

John Singer Sargent’s “Corfu lights and shadows”, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA, was painted in the park of the royal villa, Monrepos, in Corfu. The nearby Palace of St Michael and St George was built mainly in limestone from Malta and includes sculptural elements by the Maltese sculptors Vincenzo and Ferdinando Dimech.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

Follow Taste&Flair on

THE ALL-IN-ONE SIMPLE TO USE GRILL The idea behind the Big Green Egg Kamado Grill goes back more than 3000 years ago in East Asia, where it was discovered by the Japanese who referred to it as ‘kamado’ meaning oven or fireplace. At the beginning of the previous century, American soldiers came across the kamado in Japan taking it home where the ancient model was further refined in Atlanta Georgia USA using innovative materials. The secret of unparalleled great taste is a combination of heat reflection from the ceramic body shell, generating a perfect air flow that cooks the ingredients evenly at just the right temperature which can be controlled from 70-350 deg. C. to the finest degree. Results are exceptionally tender dishes.

CHL Ltd, Nigret Rd, Rabat RBT4601. Tel 2145 4861, 9942 8515. Email: info@chlmalta.com

T&F CONTENTS

p28

p12

CONTENTS 12

Flavourful feast Claire Borg’s colourful salads

An ode to pasta Michael Diacono’s summery selection

p64

p40

The Arabesque Table Reem Kassis’ contemporary Arab cuisine

Taking design to new heights Luxury and elegance in a timeless interior

The home in the alley Rethinking a centuries-old farmhouse

Investing in wine Andrew Azzopardi’s down-to-earth advice

p54 8

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

The walled gardens

T&F PROMOTION

Broaden

your Summer It’s a new season and we’re geared up to enjoy it! Discover Broadside Terrace, the ultimate lounge and restaurant located in one of St Julian’s most exclusive private gardens

it back, relax, and chill out to one of the nicest views in the area. Perched right on the seafront but still retaining the elements of a lush garden, Broadside Terrace welcomes you to discover one of the most serene locations in the heart of St Julian’s. Whether you’re looking for a place to have dinner, enjoy a craft cocktail at dusk, or simply hang out with friends and colleagues after work for drinks and nibbles, this fabulous location has it all. Pull up a chair by the bar, or make yourself comfortable in the couch area and enjoy stunning views and great service. Make the most out of Happy Hour with two-for-one on all drinks between 5:30 and 6:30pm, or head down a little later for dinner. Cooking on an authentic woodchip grill in an open-air kitchen, Broadside Terrace’s chefs are able to grill your favourite cuts of meat just the way you like them. The best part is that you’ll also be treated to a complimentary meze platter that includes four Mediterranean meze served with freshly baked tandoori bread and chili oil with every main course ordered.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

PROMOTION T&F

If you’re feeling particularly hungry, there’s also the option to upgrade this platter for an additional €4.95 to also include lamb kibbeh, cheese sambousek, vegetable spring rolls and spinach fatayer. Additional bar bites are also available, including grilled king prawns, lamb koftas, charred Shish Taouk chicken and more. As far as main courses go, we’re looking at some really interesting options too, including an assortment of grilled fresh fish such as swordfish steak, grouper, or sea bass if you’re in the mood for some fish, or prime cuts of meat such as Argentinean rib eye, beef fillet, or the signature Broadside Meat Mixed Grill, along with vegetarian options such as the grilled marinated Halloumi cheese. If you’re looking for a cocktail with a view then you’ve also landed in the ideal place. We recommend trying one of the signature craft cocktails that have been specially created to enhance your experience. Highly recommended options

include the Buena Suerte that’s made up of Bacardi white rum, pomegranate liqueur, fresh lemon juice, almond concentrate and grenadine, or the Capri that includes Belvedere vodka, Galiano vanilla liqueur, fresh cream, and strawberry purée – yes please! You’ll be pleased to find out that Broadside Terrace also offers unlimited complimentary parking, which means that finding your favourite spot and sitting back to take in the view has never been simpler. Apart from that, this trendy restolounge accepts Government Vouchers with a difference. Use €60 worth of vouchers and receive a €20 credit note to be used at any of the Corinthia St George’s Bay outlets on your next visit, while €75 worth of vouchers will allow you to receive two Lido St George’s Bay entrance passes worth €25 each. With great food, unique ambiance, and a super selection of drinks and cocktails, Broadside Terrace is your number one destination this summer. Try it and thank us later. n

Book your spot by calling 2730 0000 or make use of the online form at broadsideterrace.com.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

FRESH T&F

Feast

of Colourful and fresh, vegetable salads are just right for early summer, and these tick all the right flavour boxes. Food and photography: Claire Borg

Flavour ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

FRESH T&F

Warm potato, goat cheese and raspberry salad with sourdough breadcrumbs The combination of berries and potatoes is unusual but it works really well. For the breadcrumbs, I used homemade charcoal sourdough bread, but any other crusty bread will do.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

6 potatoes, scrubbed clean and left unpeeled 1 punnet of raspberries, washed and patted dry 2 handfuls of baby spinach leaves, washed and patted dry some fresh parsley, chopped soft goat cheese olive oil FOR THE BREADCRUMBS

Stale, crusty bread like sourdough or a Maltese loaf sea salt oregano garlic granules (optional) olive oil

1. To make the breadcrumbs, process

some stale bread into fine crumbs in a food processor. In a pan, warm up some olive oil and add the breadcrumbs.

2. Stir the crumbs to coat them with the oil, then sprinkle them with some oregano and sea salt. Toast till nice and crispy. If you would like to flavour with some garlic, add a sprinkle of granules at the very end before turning off the heat. Set the pan aside to cool. 3. Boil the potatoes with their skins on. When they are cool enough to handle, cut them into wedges. 4. Assemble the salad on a large platter. Spread the spinach leaves out in an even layer, then place a layer of potato wedges on top. Add the raspberries, pieces of soft goat cheese, and a sprinkle of chopped parsley. At the very end, sprinkle over the breadcrumbs and drizzle with good olive oil. Serve immediately.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

Indian tomato salad with raita and chapati Fresh-tasting with just a hint of spice, this salad is really easy to make. Most of the work is in making the chapati but you can have this ready to serve in under an hour.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

FRESH T&F

Preparation and cooking: <1 hour FOR THE CHAPATI DOUGH - MAKES 10

140g wholemeal flour 140g white flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or sunflower oil 180ml hot water FOR THE RAITA (YOGHURT AND MINT DRESSING)

125g plain yoghurt 1 cup mint leaves 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons water FOR THE SALAD (SERVES 2)

2 large heirloom tomatoes 1 very small red onion mint leaves coriander leaves (optional) a sprinkle of garam masala nigella seeds

1. To make the chapati dough, mix all

the ingredients together in a large bowl until they combine into a dough.

2. Turn the dough out onto the table and knead it for 7-10 minutes. Divide it into 10 pieces, cover them with a wet cloth or some cling film and let them rest for 10 minutes. 3. Sprinkle some flour onto the surface of your work table and roll open the dough pieces until they are very thin. 4. Cook the dough discs on a hot skillet until they start to puff up and turn a golden colour. 5. As each dough disc cooks, remove it

from the skillet and place it in a clean dish cloth. Keep the cooked discs covered in the cloth while you finish off the rest.

6. Keep the cooked chapati wrapped so that

they remain moist and soft until serving. 7. To prepare the raita, blend all the ingredients together until the mixture is smooth.

8. Now, prepare the salad. Slice the tomatoes

and set them aside. Very finely slice the onion. Layer the tomato and onion on a plate then drizzle them with raita, add a sprinkle of garam masala and some nigella seeds. 9. Finish off with fresh mint and some

coriander and serve at once.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

Tortellini and antipasto salad Familiar summer Italian flavours served as a salad with added crunch.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

FRESH T&F

Serves 4 to 6 Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

250g dried tortellini 100g Parma ham 1 small punnet yellow or red cherry tomatoes 2 large tomatoes a few tablespoons crushed pistachios 12-16 bocconcini di bufala (mini buffalo milk mozzarella balls) a handful of spinach leaves a handful of basil leaves 1 small jar of sundried tomatoes in oil, drained and roughly cut olive oil salt and pepper

1. Bring a large pot of

water to the boil, tip in the tortellini and let them cook according to the packet instructions 2. Wash and halve the cherry tomatoes. Wash the large tomatoes and cut them into wedges. Roughly chop the spinach leaves and rip the basil leaves into large pieces. Drain the bocconcini di bufala. 3. Drain the cooked tortellini, drizzle with a bit of oil to stop them sticking together and set them aside to cool. 4. In a large bowl mix the

cooked tortellini with the remaining ingredients, season to taste and sprinkle with pistachios just before serving.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

THAI NOODLE salad This vegetarian salad is tasty just as it is. If you want to include protein, add some cooked prawns or slices of grilled or barbecued chicken.

Serves 2 Preparation 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

150g rice noodles 2 carrots mint and coriander leaves 1 small onion 1 small cucumber 4 tablespoons crushed peanuts 1 handful mangetout 2 chillies 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 2 limes 2 spring onions FOR THE DRESSING

2 tablesppons grated ginger 8 tablespoons sweet chilli sauce 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons sesame seed oil 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

1. Cook the rice noodles

in boiling water, drain them and set them aside to cool. Wash the mint and coriander leaves and pat them dry.

2. Peel and grate the carrots, peel and slice the onion, chop the cucumber into small pieces and finely chop the mangetout. Trim and chop the spring onions, slice up the chillies at an angle and cut the limes into wedges. 3. To make the dressing, put all the ingredients in a jar, seal it and shake it well until the sugar dissolves. 4. To assemble the salad, simply mix everything together, pour over the dressing and serve with lime wedges on the side.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

Vietnamese rainbow rolls Their preparation is simple, but the combination of colour, texture and flavour of these rolls is irresistible. What really makes this dish is the dipping sauce. To save time, make it ahead and store it in the fridge.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

FRESH T&F

Makes 10 rolls Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

10 rice paper wrappers (found in Asian stores) 1 mango, peeled and sliced ¼ red cabbage 100g mangetout 3 carrots coriander leaves mung bean or rice glass noodles FOR THE PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE

4 tablespoons peanut butter 50 ml coconut milk 2 tablespoons sweet chilli sauce 1 tablespoon tahini a few drops sesame seed oil 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 2 tablespoons crushed salted peanuts TO SERVE

lime wedges Some crushed peanuts, to sprinkle sliced chilli, optional

1. Cook the noodles in boiling

water, then drain them and set them aside to cool.

2. Peel and slice the mango, peel and grate the carrots, and cut the mangetout into thin strips. Break off the cabbage leaves and use a large knife to shred them finely. 3. To make the sauce, stir all the ingredients well together, adding a little bit more coconut milk if the mixture is too thick. Set the sauce aside while you prepare and fill the rolls. 4. Following the package instructions, dampen the rice paper discs to soften them. Take one of the discs and fill it with cabbage, carrot, mangetout, coriander, noodles and mango, then roll it up and put it aside. Repeat with the other rice paper discs, taking care not to place them too close together or they’ll stick. 5. Cut the rolls in half and

serve them immediately with the peanut dipping sauce.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F FRESH

Raw beetroot, pear and carrot salad Tart, crunchy, sour and sweet, this salad is packed with flavour and texture.

Serves 4-6 Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

2 large beetroots 3 carrots 2 pears 1 lime 3 shallots, finely chopped some fresh mint and coriander leaves TO GARNISH

a few radishes, finely sliced to garnish the salad FOR THE MUSTARD DRESSING

1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 3 tablespoons olive oil

1. Put the mustard, apple

cider vinegar and olive oil in a jar. Seal and shake it until all the ingredients are well combined. Set the jar aside.

2. Wash the mint and coriander leaves and pat them dry. 3. Peel and grate the beetroots, carrots and pears. I used a food processor with a grater attachment to speed things up. This prevented the pears from oxidizing and turning brown. 4. Trim and finely chop the shallots. 5. Wash and zest the lime

and cut the flesh into thick slices. Set aside.

6. Mix the beetroots, carrots,

pears and shallots together. Sprinkle with lime zest, garnish with the sliced lime and radishes and serve accompanied with the mustard dressing.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

A Bite made

with Passion Choose our Bon Gelati

504g pack

Bon Gelati

Premium Ice Cream Almond

www.lidl.com.mt

29 1kg = 6.53 €

T&F PROMOTION

How to Fashion Warmth, Richness and Sophistication in the Kitchen Traditionally speaking, dark colours are not the first that come to mind when seeking inspiration for a new kitchen. Lighter woods and white tones are often the go-to colours for most home buyers. This inspiration opens up a great deal of options, and there is no harm in that. But why not break the mould? Dark colours, blacks and greys are relatively new as a trend, but are here to stay. This kitchen trend has grown in recent years and it is clear that sexier darker finishes are nowhere near a fad. The warmth and richness produced by darker finishes is something that has people wanting to redesign their kitchen to get the look.

Of Dark Colours and Wood Accents Pick the language you want your kitchen to communicate. Materials are the language, and the way they are applied is your artistic license. Sierra oak finish, slate grey and the cool touches of stainless steel handles speak volumes with the optical depth they create. The choice of slightly metallic finishes add shimmer and bring out the best of both worlds, allowing for subtle light reflections without losing the deep warm feeling of the slate grey – let’s call it the language of the Artis line by Nobilia. You might also look to Easytouch for more inspiration. Dark graphite, fine aluminium frames and exquisite glass – this straight-lined kitchen convinces with the appealing interplay of materials in dark hues creating a cosy atmosphere, where you will enjoy spending time alone or with company. The fronts even have an innovative coating, so fingerprints don’t stand a chance.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

PROMOTION T&F

Dark Not Dull Don’t skimp on contrast. Primarily, we like to discuss two types of contrast in the kitchen: colour and texture. Accent your dark finish with a rich-looking wood grain such as that on the Riva 840 kitchen. The straight, matt look produces a timeless natural feeling thanks to the elements in the walnut finish. Such kitchens create modern spaces while remaining elegant and functional. Comfort while using your kitchen space is guaranteed by all the special accessories boasted by the Nobilia brand – be it a bread cutter or flexible storage for cabinets and corners. If that is not enough, bring in even more texture into the kitchen with the option for cabinets with glass displays and more.

The Open Plan Space Carry the look into the living room with Nobilia living environments. Nowadays, we are increasingly seeing apartments and houses with larger open plan kitchen/living rooms. With this trend, it is increasingly important to have a living room that complements the kitchen and creates separation while making the room look good holistically. The sophistication of the kitchen must be carried into the living room. What says “sophisticated living space” better than sleek and stylish lines complemented by rich textures and accessories? Although some living spaces in Malta are becoming significantly smaller, others take up the space of bedrooms and become larger. Nobilia living environments can cater for the style and need of the living space while complementing a kitchen of any shape or size. For more information visit www.oxfordhouse.com.mt or the Oxford House showroom at Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara CBD 2010 between 09:00hrs and 19:00hrs and on Saturday, from 09:00hrs until 13:00hrs.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Chef patron Michael Diacono and host Chris Diacono

My annual ode to pasta – these six recipes are sure to delight. Four of them are super easy and fast to make; the other two need a bit more time and attention but may be prepared ahead.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

ODETO

PASTA

Pasta comes in all shapes and sizes and is a versatile and convenient ingredient whether you’re whipping up a quick supper or laying on a feast for family and friends. Food by Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s bar and bistro Styling and photography by Brian Grech Wine recommendation by Andrew Azzopardi

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Sformato di Zite con melanzane This is another super, one plate summer supper. Start with a few nibbles, followed by this sformato, and maybe some salad after and a fig tart to end. What more could you ask for except some chilled, crisp dry white wine.

Serves 6 Prep and cooking time 1 hour Recommended wine: An Italian Vermentino or Spanish Albariño

YOU WILL NEED

4 long aubergines extra virgin olive oil to fry 400g homemade tomato sauce 350g maccheroni 100g Parmesan grated 200g ricotta, lightly beaten and seasoned 4 hard boiled eggs, quartered salt and pepper basil 3 eggs, lightly beaten

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

1. Slice the aubergines lengthways

and fry in an abundance of olive oil till golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper to remove the excess oil.

2. Line a 28cm round deep oven pan with baking paper then use some of the aubergines to coat the inside bottom and sides.

3. Boil the pasta until still very al dente. Drain it and toss in the tomato sauce. Add the grated Parmesan and season to taste. Add some torn basil leaves and stir the mixture together.

smoothen the surface. Pour the beaten eggs all over, then use the remaining fried aubergines to seal the top. Cover the dish with baking paper then seal it with a layer of foil.

4. Add half the pasta to the auberginelined oven dish, then spread a layer of ricotta on top and arrange the quartered eggs around the edge. Pour in the remaining pasta and

5. Bake the sformato in a preheated

oven at 190°C for an hour before turning it out onto a large serving plate. Serve this garnished with basil leaves and grated cheese.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Strozzapreti bilpesto tal-karfus I was once given a huge amount of fresh Maltese celery and was at a loss as to what to do with it all till my niece Carla suggested turning it into pesto. The idea – and the taste – is delicious. The taste is muted by the Parmesan and almonds to a soft warming flavour. The quantities below make loads of sauce, so use what you need and freeze the rest. I used strozzapreti for this shoot, but use any pasta that you fancy. Maltese celery leaves don’t crush as well as basil leaves in a pestle and mortar, so use a food processor for this recipe.

Serves 18/20 portions Preparation time 150 minutes Recommended wine: A nutty Italian Fiano D’Avellino, or fresh local Girgentina

YOU WILL NEED

Ask your green grocer for a whole bunch of Maltese celery (“faxx karfus”) 300g Parmesan 150g Pecorino 400ml extra virgin olive oil 150g blanched almonds sea salt TO SERVE

strozzapreti pasta, or any pasta of your choice

1. Pluck the celery leaves from the stalks and

wash them well. Reserve the stalks to chop, freeze and use whenever you make soffritto.

2. Cut the cheeses into smaller blocks, then simply process all the ingredients together in batches, transferring the processed mix to a large bowl. 3. Mix all the batches together and check the seasoning, adjusting to taste. Set aside what you will be using, then freeze the rest in small plastic boxes. 4. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Tip in the pasta and let it cook until it is al dente. Drain it quickly and toss together with the pesto. Serve immediately on warmed plates.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe con zucchini Cacio e pepe is one of Rome’s four famous pasta dishes prepared religiously with only with Pecorino Romano and pepper. Mine has taken a slight tangent from the original but the result is so, so good. The preparation time only seems long because the zucchini need to be prepared a day ahead. Otherwise, this pasta dish is a breeze.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time 1 day Recommended wine: Rich and refreshing Spanish rosé or a Fleurie Beaujolais Cru

300g zucchini, cut widthways into thin slices vegetable oil to deep fry 360g spaghetti 100g Parmesan, grated 60g Pecorino Romano, grated freshly crushed balck pepper, as much of it as you like salt

1. The day before making this dish,

deep fry the zucchini rings in plenty of clean vegetable oil then drain them on kitchen towel before transferring them to a bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place it in the fridge overnight.

2. The next day, start by bringing a large bowl of salted water to the boil. 3. Meanwhile, place the zucchini into a large, deep sided frying pan and place the pan over a low to moderate heat to warm it gently for the zucchini to release their juices. 4. Meanwhile cook the pasta till very al dente, as we will finish cooking it in the pan. Reserve a couple of ladlefuls of the cooking water, then drain the pasta very quickly and transfer it to the pan containing the zucchini. 5. Working fast and keeping the pan

on a high heat, add a ladleful of cooking water and then sprinkle in all the cheese evenly over the top.

6. Toss or stir the mixture

continuously and vigorously for a minute or two, adding more water if the sauce is too dry. Sprinkle in the crushed black pepper and keep stirring until the sauce is creamy.

7. Serve at once topped with more grated cheese and crushed black pepper.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

My Mother’s ‘Forma tat-tarja’ This is a firm family favourite, made a bit more famous when my mother cooked it on a Netflix programme. It might take some time to prepare, but it will keep well in the fridge for a day before boiling. You will need a pudding bowl to prepare this.

Serves 8 Preparation and cooking time 3 hours Recommended wine: Chianti Classico DOCG

FOR THE FILLING

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil • 400g minced beef and pork salt and pepper • 2 bay leaves 200ml dry red wine • 50g friarielli (optional) FOR THE PASTA BASE

500g capellini pasta (“tarja”) • 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley 125g ham, cut into small cubes • salt and pepper 5 eggs • 100g grated Parmesan 25g butter to grease the pudding bowl TO SERVE

fried aubergine slices • tomato passata • flaked ricotta salata

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

1. Heat the olive oil in a pan and add the

mince. Season and add the bay leaves. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, before adding the red wine.

2. Let the pot simmer on a high heat until the liquid reduces and the mince is cooked through. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool slightly before adding the drained friarielli. Set the pan aside. 3. Now, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Cook the capellini pasta till it is very al dente, drain it immediately and refresh it under cold running water to stop it cooking.

QUICK MEALS T&F

4. Transfer the cooked pasta to a bowl.

Add the parsley, seasoning and cubed ham and mix the ingredients together.

5. Crack the eggs into a small

bowl and beat them slightly. Then, add them to the pasta together with the grated cheese. Stir the mixture together until everything is well incorporated.

6. Grease a 4 litre pudding bowl

with the butter. Add half the pasta to the greased bowl. Make a well in

the middle and fill it with the cooled meat mixture, pressing it down with the back of a large spoon. Cover the meat mixture with the remaining cooked capellini and press it down to pack it well. Cover the bowl with baking paper and then with foil, sealing the edge properly.

8. After an hour, carefully remove the

7. Set the pudding basin over a

tomato passata sauce, fried aubergines and flaked ricotta salata.

pot of boiling water (bain Marie) and let it cook for an hour. Top up the boiling water so that it does not dry out during this time.

bowl from the water. Run a palette knife round the inner edge all the way to the bottom of the bowl. Place a large plate over the bowl and then flip it over quickly. The formed pasta should come out easily.

9. Serve this topped with a plain

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Tagliarine con gamberi e tartufi estivi This is the perfect starter for an early summer dinner al fresco. It takes very few ingredients to make this indulgent dish.

Serves 4 as a starter Preparation and cooking time 25 mins Recommended wine: Aged, traditional method sparkling wine such as Champagne or Cava 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 100g salted butter 16 fresh giant red prawns salt and pepper ½ tablespoon chopped parsley 3 teaspoons white truffle oil summer truffle to shave on top (as much as you wish) 320g tagliarine al uovo

1. Bring a large pot of salted

water to the boil.

2. Meanwhile, heat the extra virgin olive oil and butter together on a gentle heat to melt the butter. Season. Add the prawns and let them cook for 1 minute. 3. Boil the pasta till it’s al dente. Drain it quickly, retaining some of the cooking water, and transfer it to the prawn sauce. 4. On a high heat, toss the pasta into the sauce and add the parsley and truffle oil. Toss the pasta and sauce together for a few seconds to emulsify. 5. Spoon the emulsified pasta

onto hot plates, shave the truffle over the top, and serve at once.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

Pennoni con salsa cruda e crudo di tonno Light and summery and packed with fresh flavours, this will be on your table in under an hour – perfect for supper on busy evenings or a light weekend lunch.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time 30 minutes Recommended wine: Provence rosé

FOR THE SALSA

500g Maltese beef tomatoes (“tadam catt”) 60ml extra virgin olive oil 150g pitted black olives 1 teaspoon Maltese capers 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 10-12 basil leaves, torn 1 handful parsley, finely chopped salt and pepper chili FOR THE CRUDO DI TONNO

250g very fresh tuna 1 tablespoon chopped pistachio nuts salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sesame seeds parsley, finely chopped 400g pennoni

1. Bring a large pot of salted water

to the boil. While waiting, chop the tomatoes into cubes, leavin the skin on, and transfer them to a mixing bowl. Add the rest of the salsa ingredients and mix well. Set aside.

2. Cut the tuna into small dice and place the pieces into a bowl. Season, add the nuts, seeds and parsley and mix. Set the bowl aside. 3. Boil the pasta till al dente. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Add the salsa cruda and mix it with the pasta, off the heat. 4. Serve at once in warm plates with quenelles of the tuna as garnish.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F ARABESQUE

THE

ARABESQUE TABLE Award-winning Palestinian author Reem Kassis takes inspiration from the traditional food of the Arab world, weaving together historic research and cultural knowledge with her contemporary interpretations of an ancient, remarkably diverse cuisine. Food photography: Dan Perez

The Arabesque Table: Contemporary Recipes from the Arab World by Reem Kassis is published by Phaidon, €34.95 (phaidon.com)

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

ARABESQUE T&F

Mussels in Arak, Saffron, and Tomato Broth Mussels are not common in Arab kitchens. In fact, the first time I ever had them I was a teenager in France and my father had seen them in a market and insisted on cooking them for us with white wine. From that day, I was converted. Today, when I order mussels at restaurants, it’s rarely to eat the mussels themselves. It’s usually because I want plenty of crusty bread to mop up the delicious sauce with. The broth in this recipe is perfect for that. Reminiscent of various Mediterranean fish stews, the flavours here are pungent and aromatic. I use arak because it’s the anise liquor of choice in Arab households, but you can substitute it with raki or ouzo. Serves 4-6

2. Pour in the arak to deglaze the pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape the browned bits from the bottom. Allow to cook for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and 950ml water and bring to a boil.

1 tablespoon (15g) unsalted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small bulb fennel (reserve some fronds), finely chopped 1 medium carrot, finely diced 1 shallot, thinly sliced 2 ¼ teaspoons salt 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 3 tablespoons arak, raki or ouzo 400g crushed or finely chopped tomatoes a generous pinch of saffron threads ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper 60ml double cream 900g mussels, scrubbed and debearded crusty bread, for serving

4. Add the pepper, then taste and add the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, if needed. Pour in the cream and stir to combine.

1. In a large heavy-bottomed pan,

5. Add the mussels, increase the heat to

heat the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the fennel, carrot, shallot, and 1 teaspoon of the salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and starting to brown (about 15 minutes). Add the garlic and continue to cook for another 2-3 minutes until fragrant.

3. Continue to cook for a couple of minutes, then reduce the heat, add the saffron threads, and simmer for 30 minutes to meld the flavours.

high, cover, and cook until the mussels open (about 5 minutes). Discard any mussels that remain closed at this point.

6. Divide the mussels among serving

bowls and pour more sauce on top. Garnish with the reserved fennel fronds. Serve with crusty bread.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F ARABESQUE

Okra in LemonCilantro Sauce When people ask me about the differences between Palestinian, Lebanese, Syrian, or any other Arab cuisine, I often point to the fact that our food is similar, but that specific techniques and dishes might differ from one area to the next. An example of this is the Lebanese way of finishing off tomato-based stews with fried garlic and coriander versus Palestinians, who rarely use coriander and rely on onion sautéed at the beginning or garlic tempered at the end. The inspiration for this dish came from that fact. I decided to forgo the tomato sauce, in which okra is traditionally cooked, and highlight the garlic and coriander tempering flavours instead. It turned out to be delicious and substantially lighter than the traditional version. This okra dish works perfectly as part of a mezze, as a side to meats, or even as a simple vegetarian meal served with bread.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

Serves 4 700g fresh okra 6 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 large red or green chilli (Anaheim or jalapeño), finely chopped 1 very small tomato, seeded and finely diced (optional) 15g finely chopped fresh coriander leaves 1 teaspoon crushed chili flakes or Aleppo pepper 60ml fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons)

1. Preheat the oven to 230°C. 2. Wash the okra, pat dry, and trim away the stem ends. In a bowl, toss the okra with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Arrange the okra on a sheet pan in a single layer. 3. Roast in the oven, tossing periodically, until the okra starts to brown and blister in parts and develops a nice seared aroma (1520 minutes). The time may differ slightly if your okra is quite large or exceptionally small, so keep an eye on it and adjust accordingly. Remove the pan from the oven and set it aside. 4. In a large frying pan, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, chili, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Cook until fragrant but not browned (2-4 minutes). Add the tomato, if using, coriander, and chili flakes and cook for another minute. 5. Tip in the roasted okra, tossing

to evenly combine, then pour in the lemon juice along with 2 tablespoons water. Give one final stir, then remove from the heat and serve.

ARABESQUE T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F ARABESQUE

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

ARABESQUE T&F

Shrimp with Artichoke, Turmeric, and Preserved Lemon Shrimp (prawns), rubyan in Arabic, feature quite a bit in medieval Arabic cookbooks: as dried pastes to add flavour, as relishes and condiments, as pickles, as stuffing for pastries, or as stand-alone meals cooked in myriad ways. Here I pair them with artichokes, which always remind me of my father sitting in our garden with a small knife, snipping away at a beautiful green flower until nothing was left but a yellow-tinged round heart. We would stuff, fry, or stew artichokes because they are a wonderful canvas for other flavours with a delicate texture uniquely our own. Native to the Mediterranean and first cultivated for food by the Arabs, the name of this thistle is actually derived from the Arabic language.You don’t need to spend time preparing your own, though, because they are found abundantly in the frozen and jarred aisles nowadays making this fragrant dish a breeze to prepare. This meal is perfect on its own or paired with your favourite starch, from rice and couscous to mashed potatoes and pasta.

Serves 4 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed 454g peeled and deveined shrimp (prawns) 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon ground turmeric ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 200g artichoke hearts 3 large cloves garlic, finely minced ½ lemon, very thinly sliced 120ml single cream 1 tablespoon finely chopped preserved lemon rind 1 sprig fresh za’atar, thyme or oregano, leaves picked

1. In a large frying pan, heat the olive

oil over medium heat. Add the shrimp (prawns), salt, turmeric, and pepper and cook just until the shrimp are cooked through, 3-5 minutes depending on size. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. To the same pan, add the artichokes and fry, tossing periodically, until browned in a few places (3-5 minutes). Transfer to the same plate as the shrimp. 3. If the pan appears dry, add another tablespoon of olive oil, then add the garlic and lemon slices and cook just until fragrant (about 1 minute). 4. Return the shrimp and artichokes and any accumulated juices to the pan, Add the single cream, give them a quick toss to combine, and cook just until the cream bubbles up (1-2 minutes more). 5. Remove from the heat, mix in the

preserved lemon, sprinkle with the za’atar leaves, and serve immediately. Note You can use fresh, frozen, jarred/canned artichoke hearts for this recipe. If you are using frozen hearts, thaw and set on paper towel to absorb any liquid; otherwise, it will thin out the sauce. If using canned or jarred artichokes, look for a brand with as few added ingredients as possible, and drain very well and pat dry with paper towels.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F ARABESQUE

Baharat Poached Pear with Radicchio White Cheese Slaw and Candied Pecans I waved my hand across the street at a gentleman in a black cap with a saltand-pepper beard and a backpack. Somehow, at the bustling intersection of Rittenhouse Square in Philadelphia I sensed he was the Arab chef I was supposed to meet for lunch. “What gave it away? Was it the beard?” he asked. I laughed. No, it wasn’t, but there was something – perhaps in the blood, perhaps just having grown up in an Arab country – that I could recognize an Arab person even amidst a crowd. As we ate a burger and a cheesesteak, Moeen Abuzaid told me about the inspiration behind this avantgarde Arabic cooking and the exciting ways he was transforming traditional Arabic dishes. Having trained by the sides of numerous Michelin threestarred chefs who had retired to his native Amman, Moeen had a wealth of ideas and information about transforming ingredients into magic on a plate and a celebration on the palate. In this dish, he takes a traditional French dessert cooked in wine, and to make it suitable for non-alcohol drinkers in the Arab and Muslim world, poaches it in a juice transformed with Arab spices, then serves it with a few other complementary elements. 46

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

Serves 6 FOR THE PEARS

6 firm-ripe Bosc or Conference pears 1.2 litres apple juice 100g sugar 10 black peppercorns 5 cardamom pods 5 allspice berries 4 whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick FOR THE SLAW

200g shredded radicchio 170 Akkawi or halloumi cheese, coarsely grated 50g candied pecans, very coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon nigella seeds A few sprigs fresh mint, leaves picked and roughly torn

1. First, prepare the pears. Peel

the fruit, halve them lengthwise, and use a measuring spoon to scoop out the seeds. (You could also keep the pears whole and use a corer to remove the seeds.)

2. Place the pears in a large saucepan and add the apple juice, sugar, and whole spices. Cover with a round of parchment paper with a small

hole cut in the centre (or put a plate on top) to keep the pears submerged in the liquid. 3. Bring the saucepan to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the pears are fully cooked through but not falling apart (25-50 minutes). The timing will depend on the variety, size, strength of heat, and size of saucepan. The point of a knife should very easily pierce the pears when they are ready. 4. Remove the pears from the heat and allow them to cool in the poaching syrup before refridgerating overnight. (This step can be done several days in advance as the pears continue to absorb and improve in flavour the longer they sit in the syrup). 5. Make the slaw by combining

the radicchio, cheese, candied pecans, lemon juice, nigella seeds, and mint leaves in a bowl. Add 4 tablespoons of the pear poaching liquid and toss to combine.

6. To serve, spoon some of the

slaw into individual serving dishes and top with two pear halves (or a whole pear).

T&F ARABESQUE

Sweet Duqqa Duqqa, derived from the Arabic very meaning “to pound”, is a condiment eaten across the Middle East. It can refer to different things – some people even refer to za’atar as duqqa – but it is usually made of spices, grains, nuts, and possibly herbs, all ground together. Every family has its own recipe, but it is generally a savoury mix eaten with bread and olive oil. I’ve always loved eating it with a spoon straight out of the jar, so I decided to experiment with making a sweet version. The result is a fragrant and crunchy mix that works beautifully as a topping for ice cream, oatmeal/porridge, smoothie bowls, yogurts, or even some soups like pumpkin or carrot. And of course, it’s perfect out of the jar with a spoon. One of my favourite ways to use this condiment is sprinkled over a couple scoops of vanilla ice cream topped with a few strawberries chopped and mixed with rose water. Don’t feel too constrained by the ingredients I use. It will work just as well with different nuts (macadamia, cashews, or walnuts) and different spices (such as cardamom or fennel seeds). The more you experiment with it, the more you’ll come to see which version is your family’s favourite.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

Makes about 240g 70g unhulled sesame seeds 70g pistachios 70g whole or blanched almonds 2 tablespoons unsweetened dessicated coconut 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon crushed rose petals (optional)

1. In a medium frying pan, dry-roast

the sesame seeds over medium-low heat, stirring regularly, until they are slightly darker in colour and fragrant and you start to hear a popping sound (about 5 minutes). Set aside on a plate to cool.

2. Add the pistachios to the same pan and dry-roast, stirring regularly, until fragrant (about 5 minutes). Set aside on a separate plate to cool. Repeat with the almonds, adding them to the plate with the pistachios. 3. Add the coconut to the same pan and dry-roast, stirring frequently, until fragrant and golden brown. This will happen very quickly, less than a minute, as the pan is hot. Transfer to the plate with the nuts to cool. 4. Add the coriander seeds to the pan and dry-roast until fragrant and lightly browned (another minute). Add to the plate with the nuts. 5. Allow the ingredients to cool

completely, otherwise you could end up with a paste instead of a powder when you grind. In a food processor, combine the pistachios, almonds, coconut, coriander seeds, and half of the sesame seeds and pulse until coarsely ground.

6. Pour into a large bowl, add the

remaining sesame seeds and rose petals (if using), and mix well with a spoon until combined. Transfer to a jar or airtight container where it will keep at room temperature for about 1 month.

ARABESQUE T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F ARABESQUE

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

ARABESQUE T&F

Halaweh Halaweh (halva) and all derivatives of that globally used word are rooted in the Arabic word halv, which means “sweet”. The first known written recipe for halaweh appeared in the early tenth-century Kitab alTabikh, but it has since spread across the world, from India to the Balkans, where each culture has its own unique version. When Arabs use the word, however, it refers to the confection made from tahini milled from sesame seeds. Originally, it was made from tahini and the root of the soapwort plant. Today, however, few commercial varieties are made in the traditional way, with many using artificial flavourings and sugar instead. But if you’ve had the original kind, you know there is a huge difference between good halaweh, which is smooth and dense with a deep nutty flavour, and the commercial variety, which is often powdery and sticky with a single note of sweetness. This recipe is the best solution I have found for making it at home, which gives the wonderful flavour of original halaweh but with only a few simple ingredients. It can be sliced or crumbled and eaten with bread or crackers, or simply as it is.

Makes about 450g 20g icing sugar 20g whole milk powder 200g tahini, stirred well before using 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon coarsely crushed pistachios

1. In a medium bowl, combine the icing sugar

and milk powder and stir to combine. Add the tahini and vanilla and mix until starting to come together, then use your hands to knead into a paste. It will take a couple of minutes, but the mixture should come together into a smooth ball and not be sticky, like shiny Play-Doh.

2. Depending on the brand of milk powder and tahini, you may need to adjust slightly. If you still find it too dry and crumbly after kneading for a couple of minutes, add a teaspoon of tahini at a time until you reach the right consistency. If it is too sticky, sprinkle a teaspoon of powdered milk until it comes together more smoothly. 3. Line a 710ml round, square, or rectangular glass container with clingfilm, leaving an overhang around the edges. 4. Sprinkle the crushed pistachios evenly at the bottom and tip the tahini mixture on top. Press the mixture down to pack tightly, then bring the plastic overhang over the top to cover it. Cover with a lid and put in the refridgerator for several hours or overnight. 5. To serve, remove the lid, open the plastic

wrap, then place an inverted plate over the container and flip it over. Unmould the halva and remove the plastic wrap to reveal a beautiful pistachio-studded top. Variations

Experiment with different combinations for toppings. These are just a few suggestions.

• Add 1 tablespoon crushed pistachios and ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom to the powdered sugar/milk powder mix. • Add 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder and 1 more tablespoon powdered sugar to the powdered sugar/milk powder mix. Line the mould with crushed roasted peanuts instead of pistachios. • Add 1 teaspoon rose water when you add the tahini. Line the mould with freezedried raspberries or dried rose buds instead of (or along with) the pistachios.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F PROMOTION

THE

HÜLSTA

More than 80 years ago AloisHüls opened a carpenter’s shop with 10 employees in the Westphalian town of Stadtlohn and in doing so laid the foundations of the company. The brand name hülsta originates from the family name of the founder (Hüls) and the name of the town (Stadtlohn). The founder’s son, Karl Hüls, took over the company in 1960 and developed it into the most famous German furniture brand manufacturer.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

Furniture Manufacturing In manufacturing its furniture, hülsta places the greatest importance on sparing use of resources, longevity, and a good microclimate in the home. That is why hülsta ensures that its wood comes from controlled sustainable forestry regions and does not use any tropical wood. This not only saves the rainforests but also shortens transport distances and therefore reduces the emission of greenhouse gases. The use of environmentally friendly lacquers and glues for a healthy climate both outside and inside your home is, of course, another key feature of sustainable furniture production. The best wood requires perfect processing. To ensure that hülsta’s customers enjoy their hülsta furniture for a very long time, hülsta only uses proven technologies. This allows hülsta to create furniture for people who value durable, aesthetically pleasing, highly functional interiors – furniture that one will feel at home with for years and years.

PROMOTION T&F

COMPANY HISTORY Quality. Design. Individuality. One look, one touch is sufficient to recognise hülsta’s genuine quality. This is proven by exclusive design, meticulously selected materials, high-quality manufacturing and detailed craftsmanship, as well as by sustainability, perfect functionality, and consistent beauty that retains its attraction for many years. This is the type of quality synonymous with hülsta. Living with values Living with hülsta is living in an environment with special furniture that is individually made for you and perfectly expresses your personality and style. Each piece of hülsta furniture is manufactured especially for you in accordance with strict quality criteria and the highest standards of craftsmanship, and to suit your personal requirements. hülsta also comes with a 5-year warranty which is backed by a worldwide network of leading service providers in the sector.

HÜLSTA’S GUARANTEE • Meticulous manufacturing and quality checks ensure that each piece of hülsta and now! By hülsta furniture leaves the factories in perfect condition. • hülsta customers benefit from extra security beyond the legal requirements. • Your satisfaction is a top priority for hülsta. The hülsta network is there to support you beyond the guarantee – especially by providing an add-on purchase service. • hülsta also provides an online-service whereby customers with hülsta furniture registered on the web-site will benefit from timely information by email in the event of a discontinuation of their particular range. This leaves the hülsta owner plenty of time to decide upon a possible addon purchase for their existing combination.

Joinwell is the exclusive agent of hülsta in Malta.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F INTERIORS

TAKING DESIGN TO NEW HEIGHTS Luxury and elegance come together in a timeless interior that is both functional and welcoming Design: Sandy Bonnici Interiors Photography: Brian Grech

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

INTERIORS T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F INTERIORS

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

INTERIORS T&F

ncreasingly a rarity now that floor area and building volume are at a premium, wonderfully high ceilings give an interior an airy sense of space. Matched with a stream of natural light that pours in through sizeable windows, the sheer height makes a fresh distinction when designing the interior aesthetic. In this particular project, the designer’s aim was to design an interior look that is functional and timeless, giving a palatial and sophisticated feel to the property, making it a welcoming holiday home or a haven to return to at the end of a busy day. The starting point for the interior design of a new property is usually the bare shell form where electrical wiring and lighting design are planned from scratch to fit the final look. When Sandy Bonnici took on this project, wiring, soffits and flooring were already in place, setting a parameter for the design process. “Normally, electrical and lighting designs are an essential part of my design service,” she says. “Here, I had to study the existing design which automatically affected where I could position furniture and work with lighting creating the right shadows and effects. Electrical points were already in place, so I had to come up with a final layout without having to make too many alterations to what was already there.”

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F INTERIORS

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

INTERIORS T&F

rom this point onwards, the designer had a relatively free hand to transform the space and create a very detailed design finish with bespoke soft furnishings. The aesthetic includes both classic and contemporary elements with textured luxury fabrics, light oak veneer to add warmth to the space, and brass touches brought in throughout the interior by the decorative lamps and furniture. “Brass, aside from being the metal of the moment, adds warm tones and elegance to any given space,” says Sandy Bonnici. The Art Deco chandelier in cut, frosted glass, hanging over the dining table, is a focal point in the open plan living and dining area, bringing in a dramatic and sophisticated note to the overall design. The mid-century style natural cane and black finish chair adds a cool touch to the elegant look. The minimalistic, slim stem brass lamp behind the chair backlights the space, making this a statement corner in the design. The fitted oak veneer and marble Carrara kitchen is contemporary and minimalistic in style, in contrast to other, more glamorous features within the apartment. “I like to balance out modern and classical elements to create a contemporary clean feel when it comes to kitchens,” Sandy Bonnici says.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F INTERIORS

s a rule, her design approach is to start with a neutral colour palette and then add in accents of colour, texture and pattern through the use of scatter cushions, carpets, and artwork. In the open plan area, Sandy chose cream and earthy colours with aqua green and blue feature walls teamed with silk satin curtains. Aqua is a creative and light-hearted colour that allows space for calm and balance. The sheer, broken white blinds chosen as an alternative to closed sheer curtains allows one to appreciate the view and sense of space that comes from living in a high-rise building. “Selecting the ideal fabric textures for my projects is as important as finding a colour I love” Sandy Bonnnici says. “When it comes to bedrooms it’s essential to take care of the finest details in the bedding. Your bed should be the comfiest piece of furniture in your home,” Sandy Bonnici says. “I love puffy duvets and soft plush pillows. They make a bed look lovely and fluffy, inviting you to lie down and feel calm. The master bedroom has a tranquil and calming palette, typical of the designer’s style when it comes to bedrooms, featuring soft creams and powder blues. The style of the second bedroom is also very neutral, this time playing with grey and blue tones, with bed cushions embroidered with safari animals, creating a touch of playfulness. The ribbed, thick-piled carpets help to create a comfortable atmosphere in each bedroom.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F INTERIORS

n the spare bedroom, blinds and curtains in neutral tones can be pulled up and back to flood the room with natural light. The palette is cream with accents in soft pink hues and features a focal point in the corner of the room with a tall brass lamp and large, comfy armchair inviting you to curl up with a book and your favourite drink. “This is one of my personal favourite schemes,” Sandy Bonnici says. You could hardly disagree. n

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T: 2166 8053 | info@sigmamalta.com | sigmamalta.com |

SigmaMalta

T&F REHABILITATION

THEHOUSE AT THE END OF THEALLEY

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

REHABILITATION T&F

A centuries-old farmer’s house has been converted into a welcoming family home. Interior architecture and design: DAAA Haus Photography: Diana Iskander

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F REHABILITATION

House 04 is a three-

bedroomed house of character situated at the end of a short alley just off a quiet road in the centre of Rabat, Malta. The house lies over catacombs first used over 2,000 years ago and parts of the house itself are believed to be over 350 years old. By the time the current owners first discovered it, its ownership had cascaded down through generations and was divided among 13 different families.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

REHABILITATION T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F REHABILITATION

t its the rear end, the house abuts the Church of St. Paul, which was essentially the reason why an earlier owner had purchased the dwelling in 1919. The Rabat farmer wanted to have a place for his family to stay close to the church, which was convenient for them to attend mass at the weekend. Back then, the property consisted of 4 separate rooms, with a central courtyard, forming part of a kerrejja. The courtyard led to a cave beneath the house and a well was excavated beneath the yard, to store fresh water accessed from a borehole. The new design of this unusual house saw the size of the courtyard area slightly reduced to allow for a sheltered connection between the front part of the house and its back rooms. This connection was built in light metal and glass structure separating the old structure from the new, while allowing natural light to flood all the rooms and reflecting the pointed stone wall in the glass. 68

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

www.halmannvella.com

BIANCO CARRARA KITCHEN TOP AND TRAVERTINE FLOORING

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta

T: (+356) 21 433 636

E: info@halmannvella.com

T&F REHABILITATION

reviously, two separate staircases led from the ground floor to each of the 1st floor rooms, taking up a lot of space in the house. The new custom staircase has different landings connecting to all rooms, including the washroom and roof area with a magnificent view of St. Paul’s Church dome. There is beauty and pride in working on such a project, which is always very rewarding, however more challenging it is during its course. During the execution of works, a number of characteristics were discovered which had been hidden away for decades.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

REHABILITATION T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F REHABILITATION

hen the cave area beneath the house was being cleared, rockcut steps were uncovered which led to a series of wartime shelters filled with debris and rotten wood. The shelters were cleared, but left intact with exposed lighting connection, to be used as a wine cellar. Old supporting stone arches were discovered behind the thick plaster on the walls, along with pigeonholes which had been closed off. Openings in the walls were unearthed, which had previously served as storage units within the rooms. Stone slabs were discovered beneath the patterned traditional Maltese tiles, further indicating that even the first-floor rooms were originally built much earlier than the existing finish suggested.

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

The colour palette for the interior was picked up from patterned tiles that have been restored (see previous page). The Saturno travertine flooring seen here is by Halmann Vella.

REHABILITATION T&F

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F REHABILITATION

ost of the house is built using large, irregularly sized stone. While all the wooden beams had to be replaced with new ones to ensure sound and safe structure, the existing stone slabs in the ceiling xorok were cleaned and reused, rather than replaced. In the dining room, the birth room area – which was typically a mezzanine space above a small room – is now being used to conceal air conditioning units, water boilers, and other services. Furthermore, the process of designing the interior paid a lot of attention to detail and the clients’ specifications. Storage space was maximised with wall-fitted, custombuilt furniture. The colour palette for the interior was picked up from the patterned tiles that have been restored, and architecture lighting was carefully planned to create different moods throughout the house at different times of day. n

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F WINE

Investing in wine is not a new idea, but is it really worth it? Andrew Azzopardi has some advice

At the time of writing, the week-long en primeur for the 2020 harvest was coming to an end in Bordeaux. Usually, this is a time when everybody in the trade convenes in Bordeaux to taste the barrel samples of the previous harvest. The world’s eyes are on the point ratings given to the wines tasted by the finest wine critics who carefully sample some of the best wines from the region.

ampling wines from a barrel gain or lose value according to the is no easy feat. The flavours of newly assigned scores. Thus, it could the wines are far from the final be that the value of the wine would product that the consumer gets to taste, have peaked just before the new scores but wine aficionados and professionals are released. However, at other times, alike get to speculate on the quality when a very high score is repeated or and potential of the vintage once it is even increased, the value of the wine is released. In a frenzy, the wine traders set boosted with a new surge in demand. off in a rush to purchase several of their Ultimately, it is the consistently high preferred wines, in the hope of getting demand and reduced supply which the very best prices. It’s a time when drive the value of the wine up or down. the wine trade is wisely researching Wine produced in a certain vintage is and selecting the wines to invest in limited to the actual yield of the year, for their business or on behalf of their which may be unusually low due to, say, clients. Once the wines are selected and frost, but without necessarily affecting Getting professional advice paid for up front (considered as “wine its quality. The fixed volume of wine on purchasing, storage and futures”), they are “forgotten” for two produced is then depleted year in year wine investments in general, years after which they are finally bottled out due to consumption, and, assuming is highly recommended. and shipped. Investing in wine is not a demand remains high, the wine’s value new idea, but is it really worth it? will increase. Wine from a specific year Typically, speculation creates opportunity for the savvy will inevitably become scarcer over the years, pushing up wine investor to take their chance in purchasing wines they prices. It’s a simple supply and demand argument, which feel will increase in price. They get their first feedback on makes for sound investment. Or does it? their investments once the wines are finally bottled, released We have all heard those unbelievable stories of a friend onto the market and re-tasted by the world’s critics. Scores or uncle who had bought a couple of cases of Bordeaux for are then reassigned and some of those wines will inevitably a few hundred euros a box and eventually sold them for

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

WINE T&F

Photo: Didier Sibourg

enough money to pay for his daughter’s wedding. True, many can be quite high on the lower and mid-level wines that are of these stories are over-exaggerated, but looking back at often inconsistent in ratings and even more so when it comes top-flight Bordeaux over the last 20 years shows insight into to demand. Unsurprisingly, this is where the most gains can be the incredible investment gains realised. In 1995, a case of made too. Wines that have been steadily improving in quality super-premium Château Margaux was released at €800 per due to a change of ownership or possibly a new oenologist case during en primeur, but was fetching €3,800 a case by and are seeing a consistent upward trend in ratings, often 2019. That’s a whopping 370% increase in value over 24 years lag behind in their pricing, giving investors an opportunity to (Note: this does not take into consideration any storage costs make good returns before the value of the wines (their prices) catch up with the ratings and, consequently, the demand. or inflation, nor the average 10 – 20% broker’s commission). However, the top five Premier Cru Classés from the So how does this compare to other investment opportunities 1855 classification, as well as several such as Standard & Poor’s 500 (S&P exclusive Pomerols such as Le Pin and 500)? Between the years 2009 and Petrus, a handful of top-flight Burgundy, 2019, S&P500 declared a growth of super-premium Champagne and a 189%, whereas Liv-ex (The London couple of Super Tuscans, still remain International Vintners Exchange), the least risky investment wines. Liv-ex which is the global marketplace for published a report showing the average the wine trade, declared that, on the annualised rate of return and volatility top 10 Bordeaux investment wines, over 3 years, 5 years, 7 years and 10 the growth was of 357% over the same years respectively, where the average period, beating S&P500 by over 150%. annual rate of return for fine wines So, if just one bottle of each of the decreased only slightly over the ten top 10 investment wines was bought years (just a 2% reduction), but the in 2009, that would have generated risk factor decreased to a mere 1.46%. over 50,000 euros in profit. However, This means that investing in blue chip it should be said that, since 2019, the wines over 10 years seems to have Live-ex pricing of top-flight Bordeaux Wine from a specific year will been a fairly safe bet, albeit a rather has taken a slight dip. inevitably become scarcer over expensive one, considering that these Naturally, one should question the the years, pushing up prices. wines usually sell for upwards of 4000 risk factor in investing in such fine euros a case of 12 bottles. wines, and I believe that the risk factor

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F WINE

Wine produced in a certain vintage is limited to the actual yield of the year.

Still, investing in fine wines does not guarantee positive returns. There are times when wines do take a dip in value. Recent examples include the well-known, first growth 2009 Bordeaux Lafite Rothschild which was released in 2010 at 15,000 euros a case, peaked at 16,800 euros in 2011, but steadily declined to its current value at 8,100 euros a case. Investors suggest that the highly rated 2009 Margaux was such a hit with investors that many of the wines were simply bought for investment purposes and therefore the supply was not being depleted at the rate expected. The question is whether the value of the 2009 Margaux will eventually spike or remain at half the initial price. That being said, there still is a chance for these investors, as the 2009 Margaux is actually a fantastic combination of power and finesse and, according to the Wine Advocate, it is expected to remain within its drinking window till 2050, giving investors much hope. There are other points to consider. Unlike many other investment opportunities, wine is a physical co mmodi t y w h i c h c a n lea d to complications, such as breakages or obvious visible wine faults such as stained or discoloured labels or capsules. It is assumed that, for profitable investments, the source or provenance of the wines is guaranteed, and that storage was optimal. So, in all probability, that friend who bought a couple of boxes of Chateau Lafite Rothschild back in 1995 and stored them under his bed in Malta, is probably sitting on a real value of zilch,

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

solely because they were stored badly. However, if the wines were stored in a wine cellar at a constant cool temperature of around 15 degrees Celsius, the seller would still need to prove the provenance of the wines and guarantee they are not fake. According to Maureen Downey, one of the foremost experts on fake wine, there are around 3 billion dollars of fake wine around. Any wine aficionado worth his salt looking to buy your stock would want guarantees that the wine is 100% genuine. Even when storage is optimal, provenance is guaranteed and the value of the wines you bought ten years ago is valued at a profit, you have to find the right buyer, which may often take time, especially if you’re not well connected in the wine world or don’t have access to

auctions. Converting your stock to liquid cash may take longer than expected, or end up earning you less than you expected. Investing in wine is not necessarily extremely expensive. A couple of hundred euros can land you some decent investments. Being patient and getting professional advice on purchasing, storage and wine investments in general, is highly recommended and will increase your chances of realising a good deal. However, ultimately, wine investments should be fun. Discover the world of fine wines and buy those wines you feel especially connected to. You’ll know that, if the wine you bought doesn’t increase in value, at least you’re drinking some of the finest wine in the world. Enjoy the journey. n

GARDENS T&F

Romeo Romano Gardens

omeo Romano Gardens are an integral part of the architecture of the early-eighteenth century country villa in Santa Venera, now known as Casa Leoni, which was built as a summer residence for Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena. The large walled gardens are laid out in the style that typifies the baroque era, with formal spaces organized in perfect symmetry along a clearly delineated main axis, leading to an ‘amphitheatre’ style garden. The gardens’ passage-ways are experienced as a stroll through a series of outdoor rooms of individual character planted with a variety of trees, including a citrus orchard. The atmosphere is quiet and contemplative, disturbed only by the resident cat colony and the splash of the fountain at the centre of the ‘amphitheatre’. The gardens were scheduled as a grade 1 monument and are some of the very few in Malta to have retained their original layout, preserving the historical value of the villa’s architecture as a whole. They are in need of rehabilitation and restoration and efforts to preserve the gardens are to be commended as long as historical and architectural sensitivity prevail. n

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

T&F TRENDS

t Malta Dairy Products has relaunched its Benna Lactose Free Vanilla Milkshake with a delicious improved taste. Whether you are lactose intolerant or not, you will surely enjoy this fresh and tasty milkshake. Added to morning cereals or in a refreshing smoothie, it will certainly add a kick to your day. Benna’s Lactose Free Vanilla Milkshake is available in stores across Malta and Gozo.

u KOI surface mounted downlighters offer a sleek and neat solution, where aesthetic and function are of top priority. Offering an IP66 rating, they are intended for outdoor use, however their superb design and execution make them also ideal for internal use. The downlighters are available in round and rectangular configurations, as well as bollards. They are extremely versatile especially since they come in four different finishes: white, light grey, anthracite grey and corten. Find them on display and exclusively available at Elektra Ltd.

t 10 years of Ginger by Poltrona. Designed in 2011 by Roberto Lazzaroni, it enjoyed immediate success. Now it’s dressed up in two new types of upholstery. Exclusively available from Satariano 122, Msida Valley, Birkirkara, Tel. 21492149.

p Sit back, relax and stay cool. Our Jardinico umbrellas will keep you cool and out of the scorching sun. They are easy-to-use with a simple crank-lift system to open and close them. The infinite tilt allows the umbrella to tilt forwards or backwards, and right or left. The extra-sturdy frame rotates a complete 360°. Exclusively available from Satariano - 122, Msida Valley, Birkirkara, Tel. 21492149.

p Meridiana Wine Estate is spread over 19 hectares and is situated in Ta’ Qali. Most of the 140,000 bottles of D.O.K. wines produced annually are sold in Malta. Meridiana’s wine selection includes the Isis Chardonnay, Astarte Vermentino, Melqart Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Bel Syrah, Nexus Merlot, Celsius Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and the Baltis Moscato Passito. The more casual Fenici range is made of a White, a Rose and a Red, three lovely easy to drink wines which, apart from Meridiana’s renowned quality, also offer great value for money. For home deliveries, order online on www.srausi.com #staysafe

The next issue will be out in July 2021 with The Malta Independent on Sunday

ISSUE 138 JUNE 2021

p Your new favourite restaurant is waiting. Just open your patio doors and Broil King Barbecues will do the rest. Every Broil King grill is built to provide unparalleled cooking versatility, no matter what model you choose. The legendary Broil King cooking system give you the ability to cook almost anything on you grill. Exclusively available from Satariano - 122, Msida Valley, Birkirkara, Tel. 21492149.

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt