TASTE&FLAIR NOVEMBER 2019 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 124 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

NOVEMBER 2019 ISSUE 124

Feed your imagination A journey through food, drink, art, and design

NOVEMBER 2019

122 Valley Road, Bâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Kara T. 21492149 info@satariano.com | satariano.com @Satariano

Italian Masterpieces GranTorino sofa designed by Jean-Marie Massaud Fumoir armchair designed by Renzo Frau

poltronafrau.com

Malta_470x325_SatarianoHome_GT.indd 3

16/10/19 15:45

VALLETTA • SLIEMA • TIGNE • BAY STREET • DANIELS • NAXXAR

*Contents subject to availability, missing hamper items may be replaced with similar products of the same value.

T&F EDITORIAL Photo by Claire Borg. See feature starting on page 53.

Welcome

ovember is a neither-herenor-there time of year. It’s no longer summer, not quite winter, and not quite full-swing festive season. But it’s a good time to turn things around at home, refreshing your interior surroundings with new accessories and stocking up on comfort food and seasonal produce. Set the tone of a room with a new lamp or rug, or give a tired interior a lift with pillowy cushions in jewel colours or berry shades. Scatter plants around your home or workspace and bring in colour and organic shapes for a relaxed feel. Or add a natural accent with a bowl of seasonal fruit. Pomegranates are at their best right now, almonds are ripening, and late autumn strawberries will be here soon. Picked straight off the tree – and out of the fruit bowl – pomegranates add colour and taste to many of this issue’s food features. Michael and Janine Diacono’s travels in Jordan inspired a middle eastern feast, Claire Borg’s trip to Helsinki brings you berry Vispipuuro, wild mushroom tarts and warming soup cooked outdoors. There are tarts warm from the oven, moreish salads from Greece, and desserts of seasonal fruit. As this magazine goes to print, a thunderstorm rages overhead but there’s sunshine on the horizon. While we wrap up Taste&Flair November, we’re already at work on our fabulous Christmas issue. Look out for it on 1st December.

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

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ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

NAVIS

Now open for Sunday Lunch! +356 23561111 fb.goldensands@rdbmalta.com Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Golden Sands

CONTENTS T&F

CONTENTS FOOD & DRINK

INTERIORS, ART & DESIGN

100

38 53 64 68 74 85

Tantalising tarts Scrumptious meals in minutes

Eastern promise Michael Diacono takes a trip to Jordan

Picnic by the river Claire Borg and Minna Talka take it outdoors

Sweet surrender Andrew Azzopardi on the pleasures of underrated wines

112 120 128

Jungle story Who says corporate offices are boring?

Artful interior Texture, pattern, colour and art in a family home

History laid bare Creating warmth and a sense of place

Inspired by the east A new exhibition explores Orientalism

In good spirits Rum and whisky

Just desserts Where summer meets autumn

Fresh from Greece Heather Thomas celebrates colour, aroma and texture

ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

T&F SIDE DISH

Quick and Crispy Courgette Fritters Light and crispy, these fritters make for an ideal nibble with wine or accompaniment to a meal.

Serves 4

3. Pour plenty of olive oil in a small

YOU WILL NEED

3 courgettes • 1 onion • 2 eggs 50g flour • 50g spreadable cheese extra light olive oil • salt

1. Wash and grate the courgettes

using the thickest part of the grater. Put the grated courgette into a colander and sprinkle with salt. Let them sweat for about half an hour to release the water, which will make for crispier fritters.

saucepan. When hot, add small balls of the mixture using a spoon or piping bag. When the fritters are golden brown, turn them over. Transfer the fritters to paper towel to drain some of the oil. 4. Another option is to bake them in

the oven: arrange them on baking paper and bake for 10 minutes at 180ºC, then turn them over and give them 10 more minutes.

2. Chop the onion and slowly fry it

COOKING TIP:

in a saucepan with a dash of olive oil for about 10 minutes. Mix the onion with the grated courgette, beaten eggs and spreadable cheese. Stir well and slowly add the flour to get a good texture.

When deep-frying food, make sure that the oil is very hot and completely covers the food. The best approach is to use a small saucepan and fry small amounts at a time to make sure the oil remains hot.

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Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Project: Rosselli â&#x20AC;&#x201C; AX Privilege. Architects: Forward Architects. Photo: Jeremy Debattista.

www.halmannvella.com

CHRISTMAS GIFTS T&F

Delectable

Gifts

Indulge in some of the best food, drink, home accessories and more. Shop for great gifts for family and friends, or as a special treat for yourself.

Butlers is the home specialist when it comes to a big occasions such as Christmas, from Christmas lights to charming Christmas dĂŠcor on dining tables and vast Christmas ornaments for all genres of living spaces. Visit our store in Tower Road, Sliema, and prepare the perfect setup this Christmas at your home for your loved ones.

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T&F CHRISTMAS GIFTS

KRUPS Essential Espresso maker delivers the essence of espresso straight to your cup. Experience the essence of espresso from bean to cup with the KRUPS Essential Espresso maker. This fully automatic espresso machine offers all the convenience of a compact format with no compromise on capacity, combining easyto-use features with the true taste of coffee and espresso for outstanding results. Enjoy perfect espresso with absolute ease. Equipped with advanced technology, the patented KRUPS Compact Thermoblock system captures the true taste of coffee at its purest essence, giving you outstanding flavour and aroma. A&A Mizzi Ltd. Tel: 2148 8132, www.aamizzi.com

The Cleland & Souchet Hamper Collection. A distinctive collection of genuinely extraordinary hampers and gifts. Each is expertly prepared and guaranteed to offer you the unrivalled quality and excellent value that you expect from Malta’s leading luxury lifestyle retail brand. Visit their website or pop into their shop at Portomaso for more information. Parking for patrons is free. Cleland & Souchet, Block 14, Portomaso, St Julians. Phone 2138 9898. Enquiries info@clelandsouchet.com Online Sales www.clelandsouchet.com

Delectable

Gifts

Dical House offers an extensive selection of quality spirits and liqueurs some of which are exclusive to the Dical House Cellar. Ideal for gifting on their own or included in one of the distinctive Dical House Hampers any time of the year. Dical House is open all day, every day, as from the third week of November. Choose your Christmas gifts from the Dical House Catalogue or pay us a visit to enjoy customising your own gifts and hampers, making them unique across the Maltese islands. Corporate clients are invited to set a personalised meeting via foods@dicalgroup.com or tel. 2142 4600/1. www.dicalhouse.com

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Lifelike Beauties. Each flower in this beautiful arrangement has been skillfully hand-crafted and given a special natural coating to make it look and feel just like the real thing. Enclosed with your natural-touch flowers is a bottle of scented perfume, which you can spray directly onto the flowers to refresh and enhance their built-in, gel-infused fragrance. In other words, it’s all the pleasure and none of the pain. Grey & Adler, Toni Bajada Street, Naxxar. Tel: 2740 6407 www.greyandadler.com

The Festive Season is that time of year when friends, family and colleagues gather together and bond over food, drinks and music. InterContinental Malta offers a variety of dining and entertainment facilities; whether you are looking for a formal gala dinner for hundreds of guests, a festive lunch with all the family or the staff party of the year. Our professional Events Team are ready at hand to create a tailor-made occasion, together with a variety of menus available. For more information: www.malta.intercontinental.com/christmas

CHRISTMAS GIFTS T&F

For every kind of Christmas, Next HOME store Bisazza Street Sliema is open on Sundays. Celebrate Christmas in style with our Christmas at Home range. We have all the essentials to help you make your home look festive, from Christmas trees and tree decorations to cosy bedding. The Next Home range of wrapping paper will ensure gifts to your loved ones go down a treat. Now that the Festive season is fast approaching, plan ahead and benefit from this exceptional offer. With over 100 years of experience, the reputable Lagostina brand, synonymous with Italian fine cooking, presents Deliziosa, a 6-piece combination of distinctive 18/10 stainless steel pots and pans, all for just €139.00. The range comes with a 25-year guarantee on stainless steel parts, against material and manufacturing defects. Visit Oxford House of Triq L-Imdina, Birkirkara on Black Friday from 09:00hrs until 21:00hrs or on Saturday 30th November 2019 from 09:00hrs until 16:00hrs and do not miss out on this opportunity.

Gift Vouchers from Joinwell. Everyone loves a beautifully furnished home. Gift Vouchers from Joinwell are suitable for any occasion and can be used against furniture, home accessories and even giftware. Joinwell Home is brimming with accessories that make beautiful gifts for Christmas and beyond. Joinwell Home is located within the Joinwell Showroom, in Mill Street Qormi.

Delectable

Gifts

Feeling the spirit? We have a wide array of delights for you to enjoy this Christmas – discover what’s new at Savina for the coming festive season, including a range of liqueurs, festive delights with a difference and hampers to suit every budget. Choose from our prepared hampers or create your own bespoke basket. Whatever you select, you are sure to make an impact. Visit our website at www.savina.com.mt or contact us on info@savina.com.mt to receive our hamper brochure collection 2019-2020.

Dark Lights. These limited-edition candles are housed in deep-black glass vials embossed with an elegant golden crest. A stunning ornament for any bureau or mantelpiece, all you’ll need to do is light the wick to unleash a scent so deep it will transport you to worlds beyond our own. Grey & Adler, Toni Bajada Street, Naxxar. Tel: 2740 6407 www.greyandadler.com

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Zewwieqa Ref. Code: 25472

The Gift of Good Taste Make use of our free packaging and hamper delivery services in Malta & Overseas Savina Creations Limited, The Magro Food Village, Xewkija XWK3000, Gozo - Malta Tel: +356 2156 2236 • Mob: +356 7956 2236 savina creations • www.savina.com.mt

T&F LIGHT MEALS

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

TANTALISING

TARTS There’s nothing like a warm, savoury tart, fresh out of the oven, to satisfy the keenest of appetites. P H O T O G R A P H Y

B Y

C O R I N N E

V E L L A

Melt-in-the-mouth pastry tarts with savoury fillings and toppings can be prepared in minutes and left to bake while you attend to other matters. When you’re floored by one of those “what’s for supper moments” a freshly baked tart will fill the gap nicely. Try some of these or make up your own, using whatever’s available in your kitchen.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Sweet potato and goat cheese galette Sweet potato combined with mildly salty, soft cheese, sharp red onions in red currant jelly, and chili pepper, wrapped in a crisp pastry shell. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be put off by the preparation time. Most of it is spent baking and roasting, which leaves you free to do something else.

Preparation 90 minutes, including baking and roasting | Serves 4-6

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Sweet potato combined with mildly salty, soft cheese, sharp red onions in red currant jelly, and chili pepper

YOU WILL NEED

500g sweet potato, peeled and diced 150g goat’s cheese, broken into chunks 3 medium red onions, peeled and finely sliced 2 tablespoons red currant jelly • 3 tablespoons olive oil 4-5 tablespoons red wine vinegar 300g shortcrust pastry • 1 teaspoon chili flakes beaten egg, for brushing • salt flakes crushed black pepper • plain flour (for dusting) TO GARNISH

chili flakes • whole roasted chili

1. Line a baking tray with non-stick

paper, brush a roasting tin with olive oil, and pre-heat the oven to 200°C. 2. Toss the diced sweet potato with oil, salt, black

pepper and chili flakes. Spread out in the roasting tin and cook until soft and lightly browned (around 20 minutes). Turn the potatoes halfway through so they’ll brown nicely all over. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool, and turn the oven down to 180°C 3. Meanwhile, put 2 tablespoons of oil in a large

pan and set it over a low heat. Put in the sliced onions and let them cook until they’re well softened and starting to brown (around 20 minutes). 4. Now, add the red currant jelly and stir. Then

add the red wine vinegar and stir again. Let the pan simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid disappears (5-10 minutes). Set aside to cool. 5. Sprinkle some flour on a working surface and roll out

the pastry till it’s about 4mm thick. Use a sharp knife to cut out a large circle and transfer it to the baking tray. 6. Now, spread the cooled onions over the pastry,

leaving a 2.5cm gap around the edge. Top the onions with the sweet potato, then the goat’s cheese. Turn the edge of the pastry inwards and press it down lightly, pleating it where necessary, to partly cover the filling. Brush the pastry with beaten egg and bake the galette until the pastry is crisp and golden (around 35 minutes). 7. Serve warm, garnished with chili flakes and a

whole roasted chili, accompanied by a leafy salad.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Caramelised shallots with thyme Sweet onion and savoury thyme baked in flaky pastry. The simple flavours go well with a fresh, green salad for a light lunch or supper. This is best served freshly baked.

Preparation 45 minutes, including baking | Serves 3-4 YOU WILL NEED

1. Preheat the oven to 170Â°C and line

4. Turn down the heat and let the shallots

300g puff pastry 6-8 shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons soft brown sugar salt flakes freshly crushed black pepper 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves olive oil

a baking tray with non-stick paper.

cook for a few seconds, then add the balsamic vinegar and let it bubble up. Next, add the sherry and sprinkle in the thyme leaves. Let the shallots cook until the sugar caramelises (about 4 minutes). Then turn off the heat, and season the shallots with salt flakes and crushed black pepper.

2. Roll out the pastry till itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about 4mm

thick and cut out a large circle, using a plate as a guide. Use a knife to score a circle 2cm away for the outer edge. Transfer the pastry to the lined tray, cover it up and place it in the fridge.

TO GARNISH

3. Heat some oil in a large, heavy-

sprigs of fresh thyme

bottomed pan. Add the halved shallots and let them cook, over a medium heat, cut side up, for 3 minutes. Sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the shallots and turn them over so that the cut side faces down.

5. Take the pastry out of the fridge and

quickly transfer the caramelised shallots to the pastry using a large spoon. Place the shallots cut side up inside the scored circle so that the outer edge of the pastry will puff up while cooking. Bake the tart in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until golden. 6. Serve immediately, garnished

with sprigs of fresh thyme.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Spinach, feta and pistachio with orange Salty feta with orange zest and orange thyme is what gives this tart its particular taste. It can be served warm or cold. Serve this with a leafy green salad tossed with orange segments and a simple olive oil dressing seasoned with freshly crushed black pepper.

Preparation 40 minutes, including baking | Serves 4

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

YOU WILL NEED

100g feta, crumbled 1 red onion, peeled and sliced thinly 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 500g spinach leaves 400g shortcrust pastry 1 ½ tablespoons pistachio nuts, raw and unsalted, chopped zest of 1 orange 1 tablespoon orange thyme leaves olive oil TO GARNISH

sprigs of orange thyme

1. Brush a fluted tart dish with olive

oil and preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Wash the spinach and drain it well.

Heat some olive oil in a large, heavybottomed pan on a medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook it until it begins to soften (about 3 minutes). Remove the onion from the pan and set it aside. Now, add the spinach and chopped garlic and cook until the spinach wilts. Set it aside to cool. 3. Roll out the pastry to about 4mm

thick and lift it onto the tart dish. Press it down lightly to fit the dish and use a sharp knife to trim the edges. Line the pastry with non-stick paper and pour in baking beans. Blind bake the pastry case for 10 minutes (the beans will stop it puffing up). 4. Remove the beans and paper

and scoop the spinach and garlic mixture into the pastry-lined dish and spread it out in an even layer. Scatter the onions over the spinach. 5. Toss the feta with the orange zest

and orange thyme leaves and scatter it over the onion layer. Sprinkle the chopped pistachios over the top. Bake the tart in the preheated oven till the pastry cooks through and turns golden (about 15 minutes). 6. If you’re serving the tart cold, let it

cool down naturally. If you’re serving it warm, garnish it with orange thyme and serve it immediately accompanied by a green salad.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Almond & broccoli Lighter than quiche, this vegetable tart can be served warm or cold. Try it with a red-leaf salad dressed with olive oil on the side.

Preparation 50 minutes, including baking | Serves 4-6

YOU WILL NEED

1 sheet puff pastry (500g) 1 small head of broccoli, washed and broken up into florets 2 leeks, trimmed and finely sliced 150ml crème fraiche 65g grated parmesan cheese 2 egg yolks 1 small handful of flaked almonds olive oil

1. Pre-heat the oven to 220°C and line

a baking tray with non-stick paper. 2. Warm a little oil in a large shallow pan.

Add the finely sliced leeks and cook until softening (approximately 5 minutes). Stir occasionally, to prevent them sticking. Remove from the heat and set aside. 3. Roll out the pastry into a large

rectangle about 4mm thick and transfer it to the lined baking tray. Use a sharp knife to score through the pastry around 2.5 from the edge. 4. Spread the cooked leeks over the

pastry, keeping within the scored line. This will allow the edge of the pastry to puff up while cooking. Bake in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to the

boil. Mix the egg yolks, crème fraiche, and parmesan together in a small bowl and season with some crushed black pepper. 6. Blanch the broccoli florets in the

boiling water for a minute. Then drain and cool under running water to stop them cooking further. 7. Working quickly, arrange the blanched

broccoli over the leeks and pour the egg, crème fraiche and cheese mixture evenly over the surface. Sprinkle the flaked almonds over the top and put the tray back in the oven for another 15-20 minutes. ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

T&F LIGHT MEALS

Ricotta, rosemary, and roasted red vegetable tarts Sweet and spicy roast vegetables top a cheesy rosemary filling and in biscuity golden pastry shells. You will need a deep muffin tin to make the pastry cases, or save time by making up a large tart which can be served in slices.

Preparation 50 minutes, including baking | Makes 12 small tarts

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

YOU WILL NEED

2 red capsicum peppers, deseeded and cut into strips 4 small red chili peppers • 300g ricotta 3 small red onions, peeled and quartered 60g parmesan cheese, grated 1 sprig of rosemary • 2 medium-sized eggs 400g shortcrust pastry butter and flour (for the muffin pan) • olive oil TO GARNISH

rosemary tips

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Rub the inside

of the muffin tin with a little butter and sprinkle it with flour. Shake out the excess. 2. Brush a roasting pan with olive oil.

Arrange the red capsicum peppers, red chili peppers, and the onion quarters in the pan without mixing them, and transfer the tray to the oven. Roast until the vegetables are cooked through and only just starting to brown (about 20 minutes). Set the tray aside 3. Roll out the pastry into a large rectangle

about 4mm thick, and cut it into 12 small squares. To shape the pastry cases, place a square of pastry over one of holes in the muffin tin and lightly press it down, pleating and pressing the pasty so that it lines the tin and the four corners point upwards. Repeat with all the other pastry squares. 4. Put a square of non-stick paper into

each pasty case and fill it with baking beans. Place the muffin tray in the oven and bake the pastry for 10 minutes. The beans will stop the pastry puffing up. 5. Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Stir in

the grated cheese. Snip the rosemary leaves into the bowl, add the ricotta and mix everything well together. 6. Now, take the muffin tray from the oven,

and remove the baking beans and paper lining. Use a small spoon to scoop the filling into the pastry shells and return the muffin tray to the oven. Bake until the filling is set (around 15 minutes). It will puff up while cooking but will level out when cooling. 7. Remove the pastry shells from the

muffin tray and place them on a heatproof serving dish. Top the shells with the roasted vegetables and place the dish in the oven to warm through. Serve the tarts garnished with fresh rosemary tips.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Salmon with dill & red onion Salmon with a lemony filling scented with fresh dill and the tang of red onion. Perfect for a quick lunch or supper for one.

Preparation 30 minutes | Serves 1 YOU WILL NEED

1 portion salmon fillet (about 150g), chopped into chunks 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 small lemon • 75ml crème fraiche 1 ½ table spoons chopped fresh dill 90g puff pastry • 1 egg, beaten • olive oil crushed black pepper • salt flakes TO GARNISH

fresh dill

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C and line

a baking tray with non-stick paper. 2. Roll the pastry into a rectangular

shape about 4mm thick and use a sharp knife to score it all round, about 2 cm from the outer edge. 3. Arrange the salmon pieces over the

pastry base, keeping within the scored line. Brush the outer edge with a little beaten egg, reserving the rest for the filling. Arrange the onion slices over the pastry base. Drizzle very lightly with a bit of olive oil. Bake in the oven until the pastry edge puffs up. 4. Squeeze the juice of half the

lemon into the crème fraiche, add the remaining beaten egg and the chopped dill, season with salt flakes and crushed black pepper, and mix it all well together. Pour the mixture evenly over the salmon and onion filling and return the tray to the oven. Bake until the filling sets (about 10 minutes). 5. Slice the remaining half lemon and

cut the slices into quarters. Arrange them on the tart filling and return the tray to the oven for a minute or two. 6. Serve warm, garnished with fresh dill.

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

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T&F CUISINE

Jordan A TRIP TO

Food by Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Photography by Brian Grech • Wine recommendation by Andrew Azzopardi

trip to Jordan has been on Janine’s and my bucket list for a long time, and we were finally given a chance to take it. Jordan is beautiful and diverse, full of colour and contrasts: sounds and smells different to our norm, tastes and textures that intrigue; changing landscapes that enthral and captivate you, and a people so welcoming and friendly, one feels safe and at ease. We fell in love with the place. What is there not to fall in love with, really? The stunning Roman ruins in Jerash, that first sight of the Khazneh (Treasury) as

ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

you turn round the last corner of the Siq in Petra, the breathtaking beauty of the red desert in Wadi Rum, the crystal clear water of the Red sea and the odd and tingly experience of floating in the Dead sea, not to forget the simple pleasure of gazing up at a spectacular star-filled sky from the roof of a lodge so dedicatedly run by the local Bedouins in the middle of Dana Reserve. Then there’s Amman. Bustling, loud, sometimes smelly, sometimes not, with the occasional waft of jasmine. In the old Downtown area, stores, workshops and

stalls all making a brisk trade from the afternoon till late, sell everything and anything. The small food and vegetable market is alive with locals and tourists shopping, looking, tasting and observing. We bought some of the most delicious Jordanian pastries there. This was also a journey of culinary discovery. From the simple way tea is delicately scented with cinnamon and sage, to coffee beans grown in Yemen, toasted on an open fire and then brewed with cinnamon, and the quick,

CUISINE T&F

unbelievably fragrant falafel from one of the many roadside stalls. We discovered Zarb the Bedouin way of cooking lamb and vegetables in an underground oven in the middle of the desert, and Mansaf a yoghurt-based lamb recipe which is the national dish of Jordan. We rediscovered okra, a vegetable we occasionally used at home when I was young, cooked delicately with spices, and enjoyed simple iced fresh lemon and mint juice and the sinful pastries dripping with sugary rose water and orange blossom-

infused syrup. To end a meal, we dug into a wonderfully decadent slice of warm kunafeh, made with shredded filo pastry called kataifi, layered with cheese, spices and nuts, and then steeped in a lemony syrup. For Janine and myself, Jordan is a place to be revisited, with our sons next time, to dig deeper into a country with a mindboggling history, amazing everchanging scenery, a family-oriented culture and with a cuisine to match. Until then, we can enjoy Jordanian cuisine at home, and I hope you will too.

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T&F CUISINE

Maqluba As in Maltese, the name means overturned. Chicken and rice cooked together with vegetables and spices in a pot. The whole lot is then turned out onto a large serving plate for all to share.

Recommended wine: GewĂźrtztraminer | Serves 6 to 8 | Preparation and cooking: 1hr45mins

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CUISINE T&F

YOU WILL NEED

1 aubergine • salt • 1.5 to 1.8 kg chicken, jointed with bones in 2 teaspoons black pepper • 1 teaspoon ground cumin 6 cloves • 6 cardamom pods • 3 fresh bay leaves 2 ½ cups long grain rice • 1 onion, cut into wedges olive oil • 5 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks 1 large potato, sliced (1.5cm) 1 small cauliflower, broken into florets 1 teaspoon turmeric powder • 1 teaspoon cinnamon powder ½ teaspoon allspice powder • ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped • 75g pine nuts, toasted

1. Cut the aubergine into chunks (leaving the skin on) and place

it into a colander. Sprinkle with salt and leave for 30 minutes. 2. Place the jointed chicken pieces into a large pot (approx.

25cm/5lt) and season with salt, pepper, cumin, cloves, cardamom pods and bay leaves. Leave to marinate. 3. Place the rice into another bowl. Add 3 cups of boiling

water. Leave for 10 minutes then drain. Keep aside. 4. Add the onion wedges to the chicken. Add 1 tablespoon

salt and 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain the chicken, KEEPING THE STOCK. Discard the onion and spices. 5. Heat a good glug of olive oil in the same pot. Fry

the carrots for about 5 minutes till lightly browned. Season with salt then remove to a bowl. Do the same for the potato and cauliflower. Finally fry the aubergine pieces till golden, adding oil as necessary. 6. In the same pot heat some olive oil, add the drained rice

and stir fry for a few minutes to dry out then add salt, pepper, the turmeric, cinnamon, allspice, ground cloves and garlic. Stir well and cook for a minute or two. Turn out into a bowl. 7. Place the chicken, skin side down, back into the pot

then layer the vegetables and top these with the rice. Add the stock. Press the rice down gently and add just enough water, if needed, to barely cover the ingredients. 8. Bring to the boil then lower the heat to a gentle

simmer. Cover the pot and cook for 10 minutes, then try to gently stir the rice part only to combine the still hard rice at the top. Repeat after another 10 minutes. 9. Cook for a total of 30 minutes then turn off the heat. Leave the pot to rest for 10 minutes before very carefully overturning it onto a large serving platter. Let it rest for 5 minutes then remove it. Serve immediately, topped with the toasted pine nuts

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T&F CUISINE

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CUISINE T&F

Lemon&Mint

This is a refreshing drink which is ideal after a long trek or to accompany spicy and flavourful dishes. You will need a good liquidiser to make this.

Serves 4 Preparation 15 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

115g Sugar 90ml water 120ml fresh lemon juice 120ml cold water 40 mint leaves (approximately 5g) 20 ice cubes 2 drops pure orange blossom water

1. Place the sugar and 90ml of water into

a small pot. Bring to the boil and stir till the sugar dissolves. Cool completely. 2. Place the rest of the ingredients

into a liquidiser and blitz, then pour in the syrup. Blend till frothy. 3. Serve at once on ice in highball glasses with more mint to garnish.

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T&F CUISINE

Bamia

Bamia or Okra, a vegetable largely forgotten in Malta is used widely in Jordan in various recipes. In Malta you can find okra in the larger supermarkets.

Recommended wine: Prosecco DOC Serves 4 as a main with rice, or 8 as a side. Preparation and cooking 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil • 1 onion, peeled and chopped 500g fresh okra, washed, and topped • 2 fresh bay leaves 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 pinch of saffron • 1 litre vegetable stock 500g peeled tomatoes, chopped • salt, pepper and chili

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot, add the onion and garlic

and stir fry for 5 minutes till just starting to colour. 2. Add the okra, bay leaves, cumin and saffron and stir. 3. Pour in the stock and chopped tomatoes.

Season to taste, bring the pot to the boil and simmer for 25 minutes till done.

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Earth, Fire & Flavour

pots

MADE IN FRANCE SINCE 1850

CERAMIC and bakeware that BRING FAMILY AND FRIENDS the

together

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T&F CUISINE

Galayet Bandora

‘Ful Medames’ You’ll find ful medames on any breakfast table. It can also be served as a dip at lunch or dinner, as part of a larger spread.

Recommended wine Israeli Chardonnay Serves 2 for breakfast or 4 as a dip Preparation 15 minutes YOU WILL NEED

410g tin of fava beans 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped ½ tsp ground cumin chili salt and pepper 1 lemon, juice of and grated zest of ½ extra virgin olive oil parsley

1. Empty the contents

of the tin with the liquid into a pot and cook for about 10 minutes. 2. Remove the beans

using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a bowl and then mash them to a paste. 3. Mix the garlic, cumin,

Always found at every breakfast table together with another middle eastern favourite, ful medames, this is an easy fry of onions and tomatoes spiced up with chili. Served with warm pita bread.

Recommended wine Chianti Classico Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes

ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

YOU WILL NEED

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 onion, peeled and sliced ½ chili pepper, chopped 4 ripe sun ripened tomatoes, sliced salt and pepper

1. Heat the oil in

3. Season to

a heavy bottomed pan. Add the garlic, onions, chopped chili and whole pepper. Stir fry till soft.

taste, cover the pot and let it simmer for 20 minutes till thickened.

2. Top with the

sliced tomatoes and cook for a further 4 minutes before stirring.

4. Serve this

with warm pitta bread.

and chili into the mashed beans. Season to taste, then add the lemon and olive oil. Use some of the liquid to dilute the mix till you get a soft paste. Top with parsley, or with olive oil and yoghurt. 4. Serve this warm

with a selection of toppings like chopped tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, some cumin seeds, sumac, za’atar, coriander leaves, lime wedges and pitta bread.

CUISINE T&F

Ful Medames ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

T&F CUISINE

Mansaf Jordan’s national dish is lamb cooked with jameed, a dried yoghurt, and spices, and served with rice on a bed of khubz, arabic flatbread. There is a whole ritual to how this dish is served and eaten, where cutlery is unnecessary and only the right hand is used to scoop up the meat and rice. Jameed is dried goats milk yoghurt not readily available in Malta. I tried to make some by leaving some Greek yoghurt to drain in cheesecloth for a week in the fridge. The result was ok but did not have that earthy flavour found in Jameed. For ease, this recipe uses normal Greek yoghurt.

Recommended wine: Full bodied Lebanese blend Serves 4 Prep and cooking: 2 hours

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YOU WILL NEED

6 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter) - use olive oil if ghee is not available 1.5 kg lamb on the bone, cut into pieces (I used shoulder) - ask your butcher to do this. 1 large onion, roughly chopped • 3 fresh bay leaves • 5 cardamom pods • ½ cup pine nuts 3 cinnamon sticks • ½ teaspoon ground cumin • salt and pepper • 500g Greek yoghurt a pinch of saffron • 400g long grain rice • ½ cup blanched almonds • 4 large thin pitta bread

1. Melt 4 tablespoons of the clarified

butter in a large deep pot. Add the lamb and onion and cook for 10 minutes to brown all over. 2. Add the bay leaves, cinnamon,

cardamom, cumin, and 1 tablespoon salt and pepper. Stir, then cover the whole lot with boiling water. Cover and simmer gently for 90 minutes.

the mixture every 15 minutes or so to prevent the yoghurt from curdling. 5. Soak the rice in warm water for 10

minutes then drain it and cook it in salted boiling water with the saffron and 1 tablespoon clarified butter. 6. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon

3. Place the yoghurt into a food

clarified butter and fry the nuts for a few minutes till golden. Drain and season with salt.

processor. Add 60ml cold water and blend till smooth. Keep aside.

7. To serve, line a large serving platter

4. Add the mixture gradually to the

lamb as it cooks, stirring well each time. Do not add it all at once. Add some of

with the bread. Top with the cooked rice then spoon the lamb over. Garnish with the fried nuts and serve with the remaining sauce on the side.

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From a special selection of the highest quality olives cultivated under the Mediterranean sun, with all their original taste and aroma.

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T&F CUISINE

Kunafeh A delicious and sweet dessert bursting with all the flavours of the middle east. You can find frozen Kataifi pastry in the larger supermarkets.

Recommended wine Auslese Riesling (Late Harvest) Serves 8 | Prep and cooking: 1 hr30

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CUISINE T&F

YOU WILL NEED

60g unsalted butter, melted 250g Kataifi pastry SYRUP

200g sugar 250g water juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon pure orange blossom water

2. Into a small pot add the sugar, water,

lemon juice and orange blossom water. Bring it to the boil and let it simmer until all the sugar dissolves. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool completely. 3. Beat the ricotta with the

mozzarella and milk till creamy. 4. Mix the nuts with the golden

CHEESE

caster sugar and spices.

225g soft ricotta cheese 50g shredded mozzarella 1-2 tablespoons milk

5. Heat the oven to 175°C and spray a

TOPPING

6. Press 1/3 of kataifi pastry onto

50g shelled pistachio nuts 40g shelled walnuts 2 tablespoons golden caster sugar ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 pinch of allspice 20g toasted pine nuts to garnish

1. Defrost the pastry and place it into

a large bowl. Separate the strands using your hands then cut them into smaller pieces using a pair of kitchen scissors. Add the melted butter to the pastry and mix it very well to coat the pastry completely.

18cm flan dish with cooking spray.

the bottom of the flan dish. Top it with the ricotta mix and spread it out evenly. Sprinkle with some of the nut mix then top with another 1/3 of pastry. Press down gently 7. Sprinkle with ½ the nut mix then

cover with the remaining pastry. Top with the remaining nut and spice mix. 8. Bake the dessert for 30 to 35

minutes till it turns golden, then remove it from the oven and drench it with the cooled syrup. Serve warm with pine nuts to garnish.

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OUTDOORS T&F

PICNIC BY THE RIVER Food tastes better when shared with friends in a wonderful setting. Minna Talka and Claire Borg cook up a memorable picnic. Photography by Claire Borg

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T&F OUTDOORS

It’s worth creating a setting and presentation as amazing as the food we share.

t always helps to have a friend who is a professional at picnicking. On a cool, autumn day, my Finnish friend Minna organised a picnic on the outskirts of Helsinki. The way she was all geared up for the day left me in total awe. She chose a spot overlooking the river, draped sheepskins over a bench and piled up blankets to keep us all warm. This may have been an outdoor picnic, but it was no casual affair. Minna set out a table and topped it with a cloth and pretty decorations. She strung fairy lights through the tree branches overhead and brought out vintage crockery and proper cutlery. For the butter, we used a beautiful wooden knife. Everything was meticulously planned down to the last detail, from the sparkling wine, beer, hot tea and other drinks to the scrumptious food Minna cooked on a camper burner. Sharing a wonderful meal surrounded by nature in the crisp, cool air felt magical. We cooked a soup together and it went down a treat. A warming soup is just what you need when it’s cold outside. Minna used rainbow trout, but it can be replaced by wild salmon. Salmon soup is a staple Finnish dish that is warming and really tasty. The special touch in the rainbow trout soup was a shot of sherry stirred in just before serving. One of the pleasures of living in a place where nature flourishes is the fun of foraging, whether it’s berry picking or mushroom hunting. Minna had prepared tarts made with wild, seasonal mushrooms. They’re wonderful served hot so we warmed up ours by setting the tins in a pan over the burner. It was one of those moments when everything tastes just perfect. See the recipes on the following pages. >> page 62

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OUTDOORS T&F

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T&F OUTDOORS

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OUTDOORS T&F

WILD MUSHROOM TARTS Foraging for wild mushrooms isn’t advisable unless you know what to look for, as some innocent-looking species are poisonous. You won’t find wild mushrooms here but you can use a variety of shop-bought fresh mushrooms instead.

Cooking 30 minutes Makes 8 tarts YOU WILL NEED

400g puff pastry 4 shallots, finely chopped 400g mushrooms, preferably wild, brushed clean 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon chopped thyme zest of 1 lemon, grated 2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped 150ml double cream 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons grated cheese, e.g. parmesan salt and pepper

1. Cook the finely chopped

shallots in a bit of butter. 2. Add the mushrooms

and thyme and cook until softened. 3. Add the lemon zest, cream

and parsley, and turn off the heat. Let the mixture cool, then stir in an egg yolk and then the cheese. 4. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line small individual baking tins with puff pastry and add the mushroom filling. Put the tarts into the hot oven and bake until golden. Serve immediately.

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One of the pleasures of living in a place where nature flourishes is the fun of foraging 62

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<< page 54 The dessert was simple but lovely and not just pretty to look at. The custard-like pudding made with semolina and loganberries was as delicious as it looked. But then I’m a big fan of loganberries so anything made with them tastes amazing to me. This wonderful experience was way beyond the usual picnic and barbecue adventures and truly inspiring. It’s worth creating a setting and presentation as amazing as the food we share. They’re the ingredients that make a perfect outdoor meal a memorable experience. And this one was truly sensational. n

WINE T&F

All good sweet wine improves with age, and is considered one of the most challenging, labourintensive and expensive wines in the world to make. Inacio Pires

Good-quality sweet wines exude freshness, sweetness and balance. Contrary to popular belief, off-dry and late harvest and Sherry are two of the most recognised and popular wines such as Spätlese and Auslese can also be delightful fortified spirits, yet, as with the other sweet wines, too alternatives to dry wine, especially with rich fruity many people feel that Port is too strong or too sauces and compotes, spicy Indian curries or sweet, and Sherry is simply that drink that light fruit desserts. grandma adds to her traditional Christmas Despite the unfashionable trend for trifle. Though I’m a big fan of trifle, I wish sweet wines, icewine (Eiswein in Germany) to change these general unwarranted views has somewhat piqued the interest of on fortified wines. younger generations. Unlike the nobly The ubiquitous supermarket-style rotten wines from Tokaji, Sauternes Ruby and Tawny Ports are great for and Trockenbeerenauslese, icewine is cooking and just about good enough to Sales of sweet wines have been produced from frozen berries picked in a steal a glass or two while cooking up your declining year on year, causing few short hours, usually during the dead Christmas feast, but these are not the type prices to drop, yet quality keeps of night. The sugars do not freeze, but of special Ports I suggest you open by the improving. Selfishly speaking we the water does, allowing the sugars to fireplace on Christmas eve. are being gifted a huge number of concentrate and increase in sweetness. A good Tawny Port is aged in wooden bargains. Armed with a budget of Sadly, climate change has not helped barrels to release the smooth, nutty just €50 a bottle, I opened a bottle Germany and Austria in their quest to flavours expected from a Tawny. Premium of a 2001 wine from Sauternes for keep up volumes and prices have increased Tawny Port is labelled with the average a small wine-tasting session that I rather dramatically, but Canada, or more age of 20, 30, 40 or even 50 years old, organised. The result was gorgeous. specifically Lake Ontario, has been making and are often interesting, of great quality An explosion of marmalade in the some luscious icewines from the Vidal and fantastic value. But it’s the Vintage mouth, giving way to subtler flavours grape at relatively decent prices. Ports that remain the flagship of all Port. of dried peaches, vanilla and cream With Christmas just around the corner, Vintage Ports are only made in declared with a sprinkle of cinnamon. My my wife will be rummaging through our vintage years and are one of the only sweet tongue tingled with delight as the collection of CDs for the sultry-voiced wines I love to pair with dark chocolate. It refreshing acidity kept the fruit and Michael Bublé who admittedly couples is a wine that requires decades of aging, spice flavours toying with my taste pretty well with the fortified wines I left but the returns are worthwhile. buds for minutes on end. in the cupboard over the summer months. Renowned author and Master of Fortified wines are dry wines to which a Wine (MW) Jancis Robinson states that distilled spirit, often Brandy, is added. Port the 1977s are only just coming of age,

Value in a bottle

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T&F WINE

The beauty of sweet wines is the balance between the sweetness and acidity to create the perfect harmony.

Jordi Muray

though I did try a 1980 Port not so long ago that still went down a treat. Unlike Sauternes, where prices often drop after release, Vintage Port prices generally keep increasing and it is worth buying a bottle or two of the younger vintages to forget in your cupboard for a few years. The flavours will improve, the price will increase and your after-dinner Christmas drink for 2030 will be sorted well in advance. Just remember, that even though an open bottle of port can easily last a couple of weeks or even a month, the flavours will begin to tarnish, so it’s a great excuse to invite your friends and family over to help you finish the bottle, together with that huge chunk of left-over gammon from New Year’s Day. Some years ago, I had organised an intimate wine-tasting session when I was challenged by a lovely young woman to open a bottle of something special that would ‘blow her mind’. It was one of those extremely enjoyable evenings where work and pleasure merged and though I usually dismiss challenges that rely on subjectivity, I had drunk enough to feel it was worth a shot. I opened a bottle of a Gran Riserva Sherry and told her I’m giving her ‘Christmas in a glass’. She loved it. A dark brown, viscous, sticky-sweet roller coaster of Christmas flavours that linger on the palate for what seems like an eternity.

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Champagne history Historically, the sweeter the wine, the higher the rating. Due to the high sugar content, sweet wines were considered easier to drink and naturally lasted longer in the bottle, allowing for wines to be exported without spoiling before reaching their destination. Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon’s first Champagne production was honey-like in taste and syrupy in texture. With up to 300 grammes of sugar per litre, I’m quite sure it sent unsuspecting diabetics’ sugar-levels soaring. Strangely enough it was the British market that originally had an affinity to dry wines, and it was only when Madame Cliquot, from the neighbouring famous Champagne house Veuve Cliquot, intentionally started producing a drier-styled Champagne to suit English taste that Brut Champagne gained popularity – she even coined this style of wine as goût anglais or “English taste”.

T he Pedro Ximinez grapes are naturally sun-dried before fermentation and then treated to follow a traditional oxidative ageing technique, known in Spanish as “soleras y criaderas”, for a minimum of 25 years in oak barrels prior to its bottling. They are then only released when deemed to have attained the classic character desired. Those 25 years of ageing produce the most wonderful and complex flavours of dried figs and dates, treacle, nuts, tobacco, cinnamon, smoke, vanilla and even chocolate. At 340 grammes of sugar per litre, this barrage of sweetness and goodness is to be treated with the utmost respect and sipped in small quantities with dark chocolate pudding, Christmas pudding, mince pies or even poured over a big scoop of vanilla ice-cream. The beauty of sweet wines is the balance between the sweetness and acidity to create the perfect harmony. Too much acidity and the wine will taste bitter or harsh, and too little acidity will render the wine cloying or dull. As a rule, poor quality sweet wines will display undesired effects, but good-quality sweet wines will exude freshness, sweetness and balance, and hopefully a desire for more. Remove all preconceptions and give it a shot. You may be surprised. n

Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust.

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T&F HISTORY

THE STORY OF

RUM Rum began as the only alcohol in the Caribbean, made from molasses in the sugar plantations of the West Indies in the 17th century. The tipple of pirates, sailors and slaves has come a long way since then.

it was deemed too powerful for the sailors. t was in south-east Asia and the Middle The sailors’ obligatory ration of lemon East, where sugar-cane first grew, juice, taken to avoid scurvy, was mixed that people discovered how to make with rum to make it more palatable. alcoholic drinks from fermented sugarThe habit of drinking rum was spread cane juice. The Malay people have been throughout the world by the British navy. making the drink they call brum for many The origin of the name “rum” is As the British Empire spread to cover the hundreds of years, and there are reports as hazy as that of the liquor itself. globe, the navy took rum with it. Wherever from European travellers in 14th century One possible explanation is that, the navy went, rum stayed on as a habit. Persia of “very good wine of sugar”. rum being derived from sugar, In 1970, the Admiralty Board decided that The rum drunk today, though, is a its name is a clipped derivative the tradition’s time was up. The last tot West Indian invention. The French, Dutch of saccharum, the Latin word of naval-issue rum was drunk on 31 July and British colonised the Caribbean in the for sugar, or arôme, French for 17th century, for the specific purpose of 1970, known as Black Tot Day. “aroma”. Another claim is that Although distillation, a process growing sugar-cane, which they took there, it comes from roemer, the Dutch familiar to the British from the making of to satisfy the unbelievable demand for it word for drinking-glass, after whisky in Scotland and Ireland, went some in their home countries. These plantations the large drinking glasses known way towards smoothing and purifying were worked by slaves from Africa, and it as rummers which were used by this early rum, it remained quite rough. was the sugar industry that fed the slave Dutch seamen. Yet another story, A document dated 1651 and written trade for at least 200 years. Molasses, a byalso the result of conjecture, is in Barbados, the traditional home of product of sugar refinement, which is used that rum is a shortened form rum, is explicit about the subject: “The in cooking today but was then considered of “rumbullion”, an old English Chief fuddling they make in the island waste, fermented naturally in the heat of word meaning “a great tumult or is Rumbullion, alias Kill-Divil, and this is that climate to alcohol. Perhaps it wasn’t uproar”, likened to the effect that made of sugar canes distilled, a hot, hellish, recognised as alcohol, but the effect of raw rum produced in sailors. The and terrible liquor.” drinking it was unmistakable. most descriptive of the liquor’s That did not affect the thirst for rum Entrepreneurial slave owners saw traditional names is “Kill Devil”, and English privateers in the Caribbean its potential and began producing it possibly because of its stupefying began trading in what became a valuable commercially. There was a great deal of effect. The name has survived. In commodity. When some turned to piracy naval traffic around the islands and the some places, rum is still known as and buccaneering, they took with them ships’ pursers were desperate for alcohol Devil’s Death. their taste for rum, establishing the idea with which to keep the sailors happy. No of the liquor as the preferred beverage of beer or wine were produced in the region pirates (“Yo-ho-ho, and a bottle of rum.”). at that time, and all that the pursers could find to buy was rum. Rum became standard issue in the Royal Rum’s popularity spread north to colonial America, and by 1664 Navy in 1655 when Jamaica was captured by the British. The a distillery was set up on what is today Staten Island in New York, ships’ pursers checked the quality of the rum by mixing it with with another following three years later in Boston, Massachusetts. a few grains of gunpowder, then holding it under a magnifying Huge quantities of rum were consumed, and rum production glass in the full heat of the sun. If it was only the gunpowder that became the largest and most prosperous industry in early colonial ignited, then the rum was accepted. If the rum ignited too, then New England.

RUM – the origin of a name

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T&F HISTORY

Far left: Planting the sugar cane, watercolour c. 1880. Michael GrahamStewart Slavery Collection, National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. Left: Cane cutters in Jamaica, c. 1880

Pusser’s Rum Pusser’s rum was a daily ration before it became a brand. The purser on board Britain’s naval ships is responsible for the ship’s stores, which used to include a supply of rum that was issued daily to all aboard. Anything that came from the stores was known as pusser’s, a corruption of purser’s hence “pusser’s rum”.

With cruel irony, much of the rum produced by African slaves in North America and the Caribbean was shipped back to Africa and used to buy more slaves there. These slaves were then shipped across the Atlantic and used to produce more sugar and more rum. The ships crossed the Atlantic in one direction with cargoes of rum, and returned with cargoes of slaves to make even more of it. As whisky became more and more popular in the 18th century, and virtually supplanted wine and brandy in 19th century Europe when French vineyards were devastated by disease, so rum began to fade in popularity in Europe and North America, though it continued to be drunk elsewhere. The greatest blow to the North American rum industry came in the form of the National Prohibition in 1920, when most distilleries in North America were forced to close and the notorious Prohibition-era “rum-runners” prefer to smuggle whisky rather than rum into the USA. Diminished, but not abolished, rum production survived mainly in areas where sugarcane was grown, particularly in the Caribbean islands, where the rum shop is still usually the centre of community life. Over the last 50 years or so the liquor began to regain its popularity as Europeans and North Americans moved south in search of a warmer climate, and found it, like bounty hunters, in places where rum is the dominant spirit. n

ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

Early 19th century sugar plantation workers in the Danish West Indies.

The Franks Whisky & Rum Fair To many people rum usually means plain white or spiced rums, but there is a whole universe of flavour in aged rums, varying according to the production methods, oak ageing, and the location where the rum is aged. Rum aged in the Caribbean tastes different to the same type of rum aged in a warehouse in Scotland. Although rum is usually thought to be a Latin American drink, as its spiritual home is the Caribbean, there are several producers outside of that region. We have found that rum is a more democratic spirit as it is popular with both men and women. At the Franks Whisky & Rum Fair, we aim to help people understand their favourite spirits by comparing several different drinks in one night. The event will take place on 15-16 November in The Phoenicia hotel ballroom. This year we are hosting six master class sessions some of which will be exclusively based on whisky or on rum and all are hosted by leading brand ambassadors from all over the world. Each mini-tutorial lasts 45 minutes and gives the client an in-depth view of what makes that particular brand so special. Classes are on a first come, first served basis.

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T&F IN SEASON

A U T U M N

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IN SEASON T&F

D E S S E R T

November brings in an abundance of fresh pomegranates, a seasonal crop of almonds, and the last of the year’s strawberries, ripened by the late autumn warmth known as is-sajf ta’ San Martin – perfect for delicious desserts. Photography: Corinne Vella

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T&F IN SEASON

Strawberry and almond trifle The sweetness of fresh autumn strawberries balances the tartness of juicy pomegranate and lemon. This can be served in one large dish or made up into individual portions served in an ice cream coupe.

Preparation 25 minutes, excluding cooling time | Serves 2

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IN SEASON T&F

YOU WILL NEED

100g sponge cake (make your own or use ready-made) 4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 4 tablespoons fresh blanched almonds, chopped and toasted 150ml crème fraiche juice of half a lemon 1 small punnet fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced arils of half a pomegranate 1 tablespoon pistachio nuts (optional)

4. Remove the tin from the oven,

let it sit for a few minutes, then remove the cake from the tin and let it cool completely on a wire rack. 5. Shred 100g of sponge into the base

of a large coupe (or 50g into a singleserving coupe). Drizzle the pomegranate molasses over the top and mix lightly. 6. Now scatter two tablespoons

of flaked almonds in a thin layer to cover the sponge.

FOR THE SPONGE CAKE

1 egg and an equal weight of sugar, flour and butter

1. Weigh the egg. Then measure

7. Lightly whip the lemon juice into

the crème fraiche and then pour the mixture over the almond layer.

out an equal weight of each of the other ingredients.

8. Scatter the pomegranate arils over the

2. Beat the butter and sugar until light

9. Working from the outer edge

and fluffy. Mix in the beaten egg and then sift in the flour and fold it in.

inwards, arrange the strawberry slices over the pomegranate in overlapping, concentric circles.

3. Pour the batter into a lined

20cm cake tin and bake at 180°C until golden (about 15 minutes). The cake should spring back when lightly pressed.

cream, reserving some for the garnish.

10. Put the coupe in the fridge for about 20 minutes. Then serve scattered with the remaining pomegranate arils and pistachio nuts.

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T&F IN SEASON

These layers of crumbly cake, smooth marscarpone, crunchy biscuits and cream topped with fresh fruit are as good to look at as they are to eat.

Preparation 15 minutes, excluding cooling time Serves 3 150g sponge cake (see autumn fruit dessert) 300ml marscarpone 2 handfuls amaretti, crushed 100ml crème fraiche amaretto liquor arils of 1 large pomegranate

1. Crumble the sponge cake

and divide it evenly between the serving glasses. Press down lightly to form an even layer and drench the sponge with amaretto liquor. 2. Put 100ml marscarpone

into each glass and smooth it down using the back of a teaspoon. 3. Divide the crushed

MINI POMEGRANATE TRIFLES

amaretti between the serving glasses and pour in the crème fraiche. Drizzle a tiny amount of liquor over the crème fraiche, then top with the pomegranate arils. 4. Put the desserts into the

fridge to cool for 15 minutes and then serve immediately. 78

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T&F IN SEASON

JEWELLED CHOCOLATE Shards of dark chocolate studded with pomegranate and pistachio nuts are delicious served with coffee at the end of a meal. This can be prepared in minutes but will need around 24 hours to set properly. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to let the molten chocolate cool down naturally, rather than in the fridge, or it will turn dull.

Preparation 15 minutes, excluding setting time Makes several servings YOU WILL NEED

2 large bars of dark chocolate arils of half a large pomegranate 1 small handful of pistachio nuts, chopped (or use fresh, slivered almonds) zest of 1 large lemon or 2 small lemons

1. Line a baking tray with

non-stick paper. 2. Break up the chocolate into small,

even-sized pieces. Pile them up in a heat-proof bowl and place the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water for a few minutes until the chocolate melts. Stir the chocolate occasionally to make sure it melts evenly and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t caramelise. Alternatively, melt the chocolate in a microwave oven in short bursts at a low setting. 3. Pour the chocolate onto the lined

baking tray and use a spatula to spread it out evenly. It should be about 4mm thick. Let the surface cool slightly before you add the topping. 4. Working quickly, scatter the

pomegranate arils and pistachio nuts (or almonds) over the surface of the chocolate. Using the flat of your hand, press down gently to push the arils and nuts into the chocolate. They should not be completely embedded. 5. Zest half a large lemon or 1 whole

small one and scatter the zest over the surface. Set the tray aside to allow the chocolate to cool and set completely. 6. Serve the chocolate whole scattered

with fresh zest. Alternatively, break it up into shards, pile them up on a plate and scatter with fresh lemon zest.

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IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

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IN SEASON T&F

YOU WILL NEED

arils of 1 medium pomegranate 90g unsalted butter, chilled and diced 260g self-raising flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 ½ tablespoons golden caster sugar 150ml full-fat milk, plus extra for brushing 1 egg

1. Preheat the oven to 220°C and line

a baking tray with non-stick paper. 2. Put the diced butter into a large

mixing bowl and sift in the flour. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until it resembles bread crumbs. Next, stir in the baking powder and the sugar. 3. Beat the egg and milk together

in a separate bowl. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the liquid. Fold the ingredients together till they form a soft dough. If it’s too wet, add a little flour.

POMEGRANATE SCONES The tiny round oven-baked scones now served with jam and cream date back to early 19th century England, but they are part of a much older tradition. In 16th century Scotland, scones were large, round and flat, made from oats, cooked on a griddle and eaten for sustenance, rather than as a treat. These pomegranate scones are subtly sweet and can be enjoyed alone or served warm with butter. They’re best made on the day they’re meant to be eaten but will last for up to a day if stored properly in an airtight container. Left any longer, they’ll lose their pleasant, crumbly texture.

Preparation/cooking 30 minutes Serves 8

4. Knead the dough on a cool surface

for a few minutes then stretch it out into a thick layer. Scatter the pomegranate arils over the surface then fold the dough over so that it’s a double layer, pat it down. Then fold it over and pat it down again to distribute the arils throughout the dough. 5. Use your hands to shape the dough

into a large, flat disc. Place it onto the lined baking sheet and use a large knife to divide the dough into 8 sections. 6. Brush the dough with milk and

put the tray into the oven. Bake for 15 minutes or until the dough rises and turns golden. It should be cooked through (test it by inserting a cocktail stick – it should come out dry). 7. Remove the tray from the oven

and transfer the scones to a wire rack to cool down a little. 8. Serve warm with butter on the side.

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Our Phoenician ancestors were among the first to ferment grape juice from the vines growing in the Bekaa valley in Lebanon.

Shop online:www.attardcowines.com facebook.com/attardcowines facebook.com/attardcowines www.attardcowines.com

CUISINE T&F

FRESH FROM

GREECE Fresh produce plays a dominant role in Greek culinary tradition. Heather Thomasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipes celebrate a cuisine where colour, aroma, and texture are as important as taste. Photography by Haarala Hamilton.

The Greek Vegetarian Cookbook, published by Phaidon, celebrates the best of contemporary and traditional Greek vegetarian cooking. Heather Thomas is a food writer, editor and the author of several bestselling cookery books. She divides her time between London, Athens, and Mykonos.

ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

T&F CUISINE

Seedy Fennel Tzatziki and Beet Tzatziki In Greece, tzatziki is more than just a dip or a familiar dish in the meze spread. It is also served as a sauce to accompany grilled, griddled, or roasted foods, including vegetables and kebabs, or used as a topping for gyros. You can even dilute it with more yogurt to make a refreshing chilled soup. Adding grated beetroot gives it a glorious colour and sweetness, while adding fennel gives it a distinctive sweet yet aniseed flavor.

Preparation 10–15 minutes | Cooking 5 minutes | Serves 4 SEEDY FENNEL TZATZIKI

2 teaspoons fennel seeds 2 garlic cloves, peeled good pinch of sea salt crystals 400g thick Greek yogurt 1 small cucumber, diced 1 small fennel bulb grated zest and juice of ½ lemon 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar (optional) olive oil, for drizzling

1. Make the seedy fennel tzatziki: toast

the fennel seeds in a dry frying pan over medium heat, shaking occasionally, for 1–2 minutes, or until fragrant and darker. 2. Put the fennel seeds, garlic, and salt in a

pestle and mortar and coarsely crush. Mix into the Greek yogurt with the cucumber. 3. Trim the top of the stalks and the base

end off the fennel. Cut the fennel bulb in half and discard the hard outer layer. Finely chop the fennel bulb and leafy fronds (keeping a few back for garnish) and stir into the yogurt with the lemon zest and juice, and vinegar (if using). Check the seasoning, adding more salt if necessary. 4. Cover and chill in the refrigerator until required. Serve drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with chopped fennel fronds. The tzatziki will keep well for up to 3 days.

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BEET TZATZIKI

500g cooked beets (beetroot), peeled 1 small Lebanese cucumber 1 garlic clove, crushed 250 g thick Greek yogurt 1–2 tablespoons olive oil juice of 1 small lemon small bunch of dill, chopped, plus sprigs to garnish sea salt and freshly ground black pepper warm pita triangles or flatbreads, to serve

1. Make the beet tzatziki: place a sieve

over a bowl and coarsely grate the beetroot and cucumber into it. Let drain for 10–15 minutes, then press down with a saucer or spoon to squeeze out excess liquid. Pat dry with paper towels. 2. Put the garlic, yogurt, olive oil,

lemon juice, and dill into a bowl and mix well. Gently stir in the grated beets and cucumber until well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 3. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before serving, garnished with dill, with warm pita or flatbread.

CUISINE T&F

In Greece, tzatziki is more than just a dip or a familiar dish in the meze spread. ISSUE 124 NOVEMBER 2019

T&F CUISINE

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CUISINE T&F

Aubergine Salad with Goat Cheese Often referred to as ‘the poor man’s meat’ due to their firm texture, aubergines have a distinctive smoky flavor when baked in the oven. The dressing used for this salad is the classic ladolemono, a simple liaison of olive oil and lemon juice enlivened with capers. Kefalotyri can be made from goat or sheep milk. Like halloumi, it has a high melting point but a creamier texture. If it’s not available, use a creamy goat cheese instead.

Preparation 15 minutes Cooking 15–20 minutes Serves 4

LADOLEMONO DRESSING

50 ml fruity green olive oil juice of 1 lemon a few capers, finely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. 2. Make the dressing by whisking

together the olive oil and lemon until well combined. Then add the capers and season with salt and pepper. 3. Cut the aubergines into thin slices

lengthwise. Brush both sides with olive oil and place the slices on a baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes, or until tender and golden brown. 4. Meanwhile, toast the pine nuts

in a dry small frying pan over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, tossing gently, until they are golden brown and fragrant. Remove them from the pan before they burn.

SALAD

2 aubergines, trimmed 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for brushing 3 tablespoons pine nuts 4 thick slices of goat-milk Kefalotyri or creamy goat cheese, e.g. Chèvre 80g mixed wild greens, such as rocket, dandelion, spinach, beetroot leaves, or chard 1 small bunch of mint, finely chopped good-quality balsamic vinegar, for drizzling seeds of ½ a pomegranate warm pita bread triangles, to serve

5. Cook the goat cheese under a

preheated overhead grill for 3–4 minutes each side, or until golden. 6. Put the warm eggplant in a large

bowl with the greens or rocket and mint. Lightly toss in the dressing and divide between 4 serving plates. 7. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds and toasted pine nuts. Top with the hot cheese and serve immediately with warm pita triangles.

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T&F CUISINE

Green French Toast with Honey Drizzle This French toast is attractively flecked with green herbs and scallions (spring onions) for an aromatic savory flavor. The honey adds sweetness and is more subtle than the usual maple syrup. Katiki is a traditional cottage cheese made from goat milk. It has a smooth, creamy spreadable texture and a slightly sour taste. You can substitute this with any soft cheese, preferably made with goat or sheep milk.

Preparation 7-8 minutes Cooking 12–24 minutes Serves 4 YOU WILL NEED

4 medium free-range eggs 90ml milk 1 handful of flat-leaf parsley and dill, finely chopped 4 spring onions, finely chopped 4 medium slices Greek sesame bread or crusty white bread 1 tablespoon olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ground cinnamon, for dusting Greek thyme honey, for drizzling Greek yogurt or Katiki soft cheese, to serve

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1. Beat the eggs and milk

3. Meanwhile, heat the olive

together in a shallow bowl. Stir in the chopped herbs and spring onions. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

oil in a large nonstick frying pan over low–medium heat. When hot, add the soaked bread, 1–2 slices at a time, and cook for 2–3 minutes until crisp and golden brown underneath. Turn over the bread slices and cook the other side. Keep the cooked bread warm while you cook the remaining slices in the same way.

2. Place one or two slices of

bread (depending on the size of your frying pan) in the beaten egg mixture and leave it to soak for 2–3 minutes, turning it over to cover both sides. Don’t leave it too long or it will get soggy and fall apart.

4. Serve the French toast, dusted with cinnamon and drizzled with honey, with a large spoonful of yogurt or Katiki. For variety, add some chopped basil, thyme, or mint or serve the toast with griddled tomatoes on the vine.

T&F CUISINE

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CUISINE T&F

Balsamic-Glazed Briam with Halloumi Briam is the Greek name for a traditional dish of slow-cooked mixed roasted vegetables. The figs, walnuts, and fried halloumi add a modern twist, as does the balsamic glaze in our quicker version. The quality of the olive oil is a deal-maker or breaker in such a simple recipe, so use the best-quality fruity-flavored oil you can find. It will make all the difference. In Greece, briam is usually served with a large slice of salty feta for crumbling over the top, plus some crusty bread to mop up the delicious oil. You could try this and omit the halloumi.

Preparation 15 minutes | Cooking 30–35 minutesm | Serves 4 YOU WILL NEED

2 red onions, cut into wedges 1 aubergine, cut into chunks 2 red, yellow or green bell peppers, seeded and cut into chunks 6 garlic cloves, unpeeled fruity green olive oil, for drizzling 4 juicy tomatoes, halved 8 fresh figs, halved 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons brown sugar 30 g chopped walnuts 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley lemon wedges, for squeezing SESAME-CRUSTED HALLOUMI

250 g halloumi, cut into 8 slices 6 tablespoons white sesame seeds 2 tablespoons olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to

400°F/200°C/Gas Mark 6. 2. Put the onions, aubergine, and bell

peppers into a large roasting pan. Tuck the garlic cloves down in between the vegetables and drizzle generously with olive oil. Roast for 15 minutes. 3. Remove the pan from the oven and

add the tomatoes and figs. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle the balsamic vinegar and sugar over the top. Return to the oven for 10–15 minutes. 4. Remove the pan from the oven and stir in the walnuts. Return to the oven for 5 minutes, or until the figs and vegetables are tender and starting to caramelise. Squeeze the garlic out of the skins and mix into the roasted vegetables and figs. 5. Meanwhile, press the halloumi slices

Briam is the Greek name for a traditional dish of slow-cooked mixed roasted vegetables.

into the sesame seeds until coated on both sides. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and fry the halloumi, in batches, for 1–2 minutes each side until crisp and golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels. 6. Divide the briam between 4 serving plates and top with the fried halloumi. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately with lemon wedges for squeezing.

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T&F CUISINE

Almond Granola Bowl with Figs and Pomegranate Seeds This recipe makes enough granola for several breakfasts, so store what you don’t use in an airtight jar or container in a cool place. It will stay fresh for up to three weeks. You can also eat it as a snack, serve it with cold milk, or sprinkle it over ice cream and yogurt. When figs are unavailable, use fresh berries, peaches, dates, or melon instead. VARIATIONS

Use maple syrup instead of honey. Add pistachios, walnuts, or hazelnuts. u Use dairy-free coconut yogurt or soy yogurt. u Try stirring the following into the cooked granola: chocolate chips, carob chips, cacao nibs, coconut shavings, dried cherries, dates, apricots, and figs.

Preparation 5 minutes Cooking 25–30 minutes Makes 500g granola YOU WILL NEED

5 tablespoons smooth almond butter 2 tablespoons coconut oil 4 tablespoons clear Greek honey, plus extra for drizzling 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 340g rolled oats 120g coarsely chopped almonds 50g mixed seeds, e.g. pumpkin or sunflower 80g raisins 480g Greek yogurt seeds of 1 pomegranate 8 fresh figs, quartered or halved

baking sheet with parchment paper.

almonds, and seeds until everything is coated. If the mixture seems a bit dry, stir in some more honey. Spread out the mixture on the lined baking sheet.

2. Gently stir the almond butter,

4. Bake for 10 minutes, then stir the

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and line a

coconut oil, honey, and cinnamon in a small pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, or until they melt.

3. Pour into a bowl and stir in the oats,

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granola, turning it over, and bake for another 10–15 minutes, or until golden brown. Don’t worry if it seems

soft – it will crisp up as it cools. When cold, stir in the raisins and store in an airtight container. 5. Divide the yogurt between 4 shallow bowls. Stir 4 tablespoons granola into each bowl, then sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and top with the figs. Drizzle with honey and serve.

T&F CUISINE

Aubergine Gyros Gyros are Greek street food, traditionally made with meat, especially pork or chicken, wrapped up with salad and fried potatoes in a thick, soft flatbread, and drizzled with garlic sauce or tzatziki. But now that more people are embracing a vegetarian lifestyle, delicious vegan alternatives are becoming very popular in Athens, Thessaloniki, and some islands. Aubergines are so ‘meaty’ that they make a great filling, and you can use dairy-free yogurt to make the tzatziki (try soy-, almond-, cashew- or coconut milk-based ones). For variety, use hummus or tahini sauce instead of tzatziki, drizzle with hot chilli sauce or add a dash of harissa, or substitute fried or spicy baked tofu for the eggplant.

Preparation 15 minutes | Cooking 15 minutes | Serves 4 VEGAN

2. Brush the aubergine slices with oil on

2 large aubergines, thickly sliced olive oil, for brushing 1½ teaspoons za’atar 1½ teaspoons dried rigani (Greek oregano) or marjoram 4 large thick pita flatbreads ¼ cucumber, sliced 4 tomatoes, sliced or quartered ½ red onion, thinly sliced crisp lettuce leaves, shredded sea salt and freshly ground black pepper lemon wedges, for squeezing

both sides. Sprinkle with the za’atar and rigani (Greek oregano) or marjoram, and season lightly with salt and pepper. 3. Heat a large ridged griddle pan

over medium–high heat. When hot, add some aubergine slices (do this in batches) and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side, or until charred, golden brown, and attractively striped. Drain on paper towels and keep them warm while you cook the remaining aubergine in the same way.

TZATZIKI

250 g dairy-free yogurt 1 tablespoon fruity olive oil ½ cucumber, diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed a few mint sprigs, finely chopped a few dill sprigs, finely chopped grated zest and juice of ½ lemon

4. Assemble the gyros: warm the

1. Make the tzatziki: mix all the

5. Place each flatbread on a square of

ingredients together in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

kitchen foil or baking parchment and fold up or roll over to enclose the filling. Eat immediately while they are warm, with some lemon wedges for squeezing.

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flatbreads in a low oven or on a lightly oiled griddle pan. Divide the griddled eggplant, cucumber, tomatoes, onion, and lettuce between them. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and drizzle with tzatziki.

CUISINE T&F

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T&F CUISINE

Roast Pumpkin and Bulgur Pilaf The pleasantly nutty flavor and coarse texture of bulgur wheat lends itself to pilafs, making them more interesting than rice-based ones. Traditionally, bulgur was the food of the poor and in Cyprus, where it is known as pourgouri, it’s added to soups and salads as well as pilaf and even eaten plain as a side dish with yogurt. To vary this recipe, add some spinach or shredded greens or stir in some raisins or chopped pistachios. Vary the herbs and spices: try mint or tarragon, for instance, or ground cumin or allspice. Instead of pumpkin, roast some butternut squash, sweet potato or baby carrots. As a topping, try a spoonful of thick dairy-free yogurt.

Preparation 10 minutes Cooking 25-30 minutes Serves 4 VEGAN

500 g pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into cubes ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground coriander olive oil, for drizzling seeds of ½ pomegranate 2 tablespoons roasted pumpkin seeds BULGUR PILAF

4 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, chopped pinch of ground cinnamon 120 g bulgur wheat (dry weight)

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Traditionally, bulgur was the food of the poor and in Cyprus, where it is known as pourgouri, it’s added to soups and salads as well as pilaf. pinch of crushed red pepper (chilli) flakes 240ml vegetable broth 50 g chopped walnuts 1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 handful of cilantro (coriander), chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. Put the pumpkin on a

baking sheet and dust with the ground spices. Season with salt and pepper, and

drizzle with plenty of olive oil. Roast for 25–30 minutes, or until tender. 3. Meanwhile, make the

bulgur pilaf: heat the oil in a saucepan over low–medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes, or until softened. Stir in the cinnamon and bulgur wheat and cook for 1 minute. 4. Add the red pepper (chilli)

flakes and vegetable broth, cover and cook over a very

low heat for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes, still covered. The bulgur will continue cooking in the residual heat. 5. Fluff up the bulgur with a fork and stir in the walnuts and herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Gently stir in the roasted pumpkin and divide between 4 shallow bowls. Sprinkle with pomegranate and pumpkin seeds and serve warm. n

T&F INTERIORS

BACK TO

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This busy, multi-functional workspace has a relaxed jungle-by-the-beach feel. Design: Martina Fenech Adami, Senior Interior Designer, Forward Architects Photography: Darren Agius

NATURE

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INTERIORS T&F

Jungle motifs and organic forms, like the monkey lamps suspended from the walls, are playful elements that make the space feel comfortable and fun

A natural colour palette and materials, plants and organic motifs create a relaxed atmosphere. The built-in leather banquette was designed specially for this space.

ike painting, designing an interior begins with a canvas. What goes onto it depends on what is already there. When Forward Architects were commissioned to redesign a corporate office space, this was a practically blank canvas. There was little of the original aesthetic that needed to be retained. The client, an international company with offices in multiple locations, needed the same space to serve several functions: breakout areas for informal meetings, a large enough space for a monthly event when the whole staff gets together; space for formal meetings but no spaces to lie unused for weeks on end. The area needed to be flexible and with modular seating so that it could accommodate different numbers of people for varying uses at different times.

The breakout area is designed as a flexible space with lightweight furniture that is easily moved.

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he design process began with identifying the different areas of use, including two quiet meeting spaces – a challenge in a busy office where the spatial use is in a state of flux. Fixed points were identified, anchoring the fluidity of the rest of the area. A laptop bar runs along one wall, with multiple power points to allow staff to plug in for battery power. A designated formal meeting area was allocated, but designed to be taken apart and put together again at short notice. The company’s basic mood board is earthy with a calming effect which is important for staff wellbeing. Enveloping the hectic work pace in a calm interior creates an environment that is fun rather than stressful. The designers built on the company’s basic mood board, creating a relaxed, fun design with a jungle-by-thebeach theme. Furniture is lightweight and moveable, both functional and sculptural.

The board room, normally a dead space when not in use, is a glassed-in extension open to the main office. Curtains can be drawn to provide privacy during meetings, and the furniture can be moved easily for large office gatherings.

The board room seating colour is a muted green, which tones with the jungle theme. The bespoke table is in American walnut. The warm textures, soothing colours and carefully planned lighting create an atmosphere drastically different from the usual sterile look of corporate offices.

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he floor is covered in a natural coloured vinyl weave which creates a neutral, sand grain effect. Large, round cushions are scattered about, much like pebbles washed up on a beach. There are copious amounts of greenery, both in the planters and in the surface treatment. Rugs, inspired by tribal motifs, add flashes of colour without overwhelming the design. Jungle motifs and organic forms, like the monkey lamps suspended from the walls, are playful elements that make the space feel comfortable and fun, rather than rigidly corporate. There are occasional touches of bling – a neon-lit sign, a brass beaded effect stool – associated with the industry. Each and every piece was chosen with care. “We thought about how it fits into the overall design concept,” the designer Martina Fenech Adami says. To reorganise the lighting system, existing soffit inserts were blocked off, the ceiling area and the top part of the walls were painted black, and new track lighting installed with pendant fittings. This redirects the eye away from the older ceiling, focussing attention on the new design. The new lighting system includes “hot spots” which provide warm light for meeting areas, which complements the natural light.

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Large, round cushions are scattered about, much like pebbles washed up on a beach.

The ceiling and upper wall were sprayed in a dark tone and new suspended light was installed, transforming the sense of space.

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he company workspace is on a relatively high floor of a commercial building and flooded with natural light through its glass external walls. The downside is the distracting and rather unappealing roofscape of the surrounding area. The solution was to cover the plate glass in large see-through decals which let in natural light and allow near visibility while masking the visual clutter beyond. As the day wears on, the natural light filtering through the covered windows casts interesting and shifting shadows on the floor, much like what happens in an actual jungle. The jungle concept is carried through to the lap top bar. The bar top is in smooth wood with high legged seating in a leaflike design. The tiled backdrop featuring a jungle scene was custom-made. Finding a supplier for the wall tiles was challenging as all 400 pieces had to be individually printed, sealed, and numbered to fit into place. The effort was worthwhile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the innovative design is stunning.

Scatter rugs in a tribal motif add flashes of colour.

The designers built on the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basic mood board, creating a relaxed, fun design with a jungle-by-thebeach theme.

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400 individually printed tiles make up the customised jungle wall behind the laptop bar.

The "jungle by the beach" theme is carried throughout. Large "pebble" cushions are set adrift on a sand-like floor covering. The laptop bar is in wood with high stools in a leaf-like shape.

T&F INTERIORS

ver in the barista area, there’s a beachy, natural vibe with bamboo chairs, lots of natural materials – walnut wood, leather, real plants – and artisan accessories lining the smooth, dark shelves. The mix of metal surfaces and light-absorbing concrete generates an interesting play on light. The formal meeting room was created by installing glass partitions on part of the terrace, with the inner side of the area open to the rest of the workspace. For privacy, large drapes can be drawn across the glass walls and the open side of the space, cocooning the meeting space. The large boardroom table in American walnut was custom-designed and set on a geometric support system with a hollow metal section in a brass finish. It can be taken apart easily and moved around to rearrange the space for large staff gatherings. The board room chairs are green, which resonates with the overall design. The ultimate test for any interior design is how it affects its users. And when an office looks like this, who wouldn’t want to go to work? n

The sleek smoothness of the contemporary bar is a foil for the tactile decorative and functional artefacts.

Green acts as a colour accent in the largely neutral palette.

Circular rugs and pebble cushions soften the angularity of the space. The cushions are lightweight and can be moved easily whenever necessary.

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Low height furniture and vibrant colours and striped ottomans give the open-plan lounge an inviting and informal look.

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COLOUR Colour, pattern, art, and natural materials are brought together to create a stunning interior in a family home Project: ARRCC Interior design: Mark Rielly, Sarika Jacobs Interior architecture: Quintin Gilman, Wynand van Dam, Brian Bernhardt Architect: Jenny Mills Architecture Photography: Greg Cox Text: adapted from Tracy Lynn Chemaly

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he homeowners’ affinity for colour – and a multitude of materials – informed the creative journey in this statementmaking home. “By working with the homeowner’s wide and varied art collection we were able to create spaces that allow for a dynamic dialogue between the artworks and furnishings,” says ARRCC director Mark Rielly. This is immediately apparent in the expansive, marbled entrance hall where a brightly coloured, geometric cabinet is complemented by a two-tone suede sofa, angular rug and organically shaped side table. The scene sets a welcome sense of repose that carries through to the rest of the home. “Materiality is just as much a feature in this area,” says ARRCC designer Quintin Gilman, pointing to the architect’s vision for the staircase leading down to the basement level. The stairs are clad in a textured, creamy beige stone with soft veins of colour. “Crema Marfil marble, glass balustrades with brass cladding, and dark-stained timber all create unique textures in this stairwell,” he says. On the staircase wall, laser-cut, coated-steel cladding is back-lit for dramatic effect.

q The indoor lounge flows into this outdoor terrace equipped with its own fireplace. The timber beam covering creates dappled shade. Natural materials create a sense of warmth and texture.

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u Colour and natural materials define this home's interior. The organic curves of the wooden desk are reflected in the "molten glass" swivel chair in a vibrant sea-green.

T&F INTERIORS

p This is a home where you can kick off your shoes and relax. The geometic joinery piece in the hallway includes pigeonholes for temporary storage.

u In the dining area, cookbooks and art books line the shelves. The shape of the pendant lamp above the ebonised French oak table is inspired by driftwood.

olour is the focus in the informal lounge, where a marineblue rug grounds the layout, while teal cushions and green ceramic side tables continue the aquamarine theme. Chevron-patterned fabric in sorbet hues covers two ottomans, breaking up the blocks of colour and adding a touch of playfulness to this family room. A custom-designed DJ booth in dark and light grey tones means music is always part of the living experience. Around the fireplace, the armchair and standing lamp by a bespoke furniture studio add to the juxtaposition of forms, their whiteness tossing an element of cool crispness into the friendly interior. Colourful balloon-like glass vases further embrace the elegant play of form.

In the adjacent dining area materials and stunning art are the main attraction. An ebonised French oak table and brass-edged black leather dining chairs are presided over by a driftwood-shaped pendant light. Wood panelling on the walls adds to the deep familiar feel within this mealtime gathering spot. The kitchen links to the dining area via sliding pocket timber doors.

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5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412 5125

VALID DATES

LEE M CARDHOLDER

Credit

5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412 5123

VALID THRU

06/18 06/18

LEE M CARDHOLDER

Debit

5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412

5412

VALID 06/18 THRU 06/18

LEE M CARDHOLDER

EXPIRES END

4000 1234 1234 5678 5678 9010 9010 4000 4000 GOOD THRU

12-16 12-16

CARDHOLDER NAME

4000 1234 1234 5678 5678 9010 9010 4000 4000 GOOD THRU

CARDHOLDER NAME

Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c. ... always in your interest! www.lombardmalta.com

Head Office: 67 Republic Street Valletta Malta

T&F INTERIORS

Paint-splashed walls and a palette of primary colours decorates the children's bedrooms.

u Finishes, textiles, and furniture in netural tones are foil for flashes of colour like the turquoise pedestal.

he covered terrace is a natural extension of the entertainment area. The cool grey of the concrete floor slabs has been heightened using concrete and naturalstone panel blocks fitted onto the darker charcoal-coloured feature wall. Evenings are presented in an ambient glow, with some of these sand-blasted travertines and pre-cast concrete features backlit, creating a subtly moody effect.

This textured aesthetic manifests in the plaited armchairs too, with their weaving patterns relating to the spiralling forms found on the dyed cerise, turquoise and grey cushions dotted around this space. Creating a transition point between this area and the outdoor space beyond, a suspended sofa swings gently in the breeze – a reminder that this is a home to be enjoyed. On days that call for indoor hibernation, the family cinema on the basement level beckons. Upstairs, the bedrooms are an exercise in high-energy decorating, as per the homeowner’s brief. “The children’s bedrooms feature bold primary colours and paint-splashed walls, with playful elements such as hammocks and bucket stools adding youthful freshness,” says ARRCC designer Sarika Jacobs. More grown up, yet equally charming, the main guest bedroom continues the home’s pattern play through its wallpaper and custom-designed rug, which create imaginative shapes through their free-flow lines. n

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OPENING HOURS - MON TO FRI 9AM TO 8PM | SAT 9AM TO 6PM SUNDAY & PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 10AM TO 6PM

T&F RENOVATION

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RENOVATION T&F

HISTORY LAID BARE Exposing the building’s past and integrating it into a contemporary design gave this home warmth and a sense of place. Architecture: ÁBATON Interior design: BATAVIA Photography: Belem Imaz

nusually, the architects on this project helped their clients find the right space to create their home. For this, the firm’s 150th renovation project, the search led to an old building with distinctive architecture in which they found a flat they could turn into the home their client wanted. The architects redesigned the interior space to fit a contemporary, versatile concept together with original architectural elements which date back to the time the building was first constructed and which were carefully restored. The design maximised natural light and open spaces while keeping the social and private areas of the home separate from each other.

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t Sliding wood panels separate the kitchen and dining areas, adjusting the openness of the communal spaces.

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p The original floral motif ceiling mouldings in the master bedroom were carefully restored and highlighted by painting them a different colour from the walls.

q Soft furnishings add colour accents to the textured interior.

RENOVATION T&F

he social spaces are set around an open and well-lit lobby. The living room, dining room and kitchen are organised as successive areas which flow together, allowing visual continuity and increasing the overall sense of space and the penetration of natural light into the interior. The original structural and decorative elements and materials were restored, while retaining the signs and patina of age, and integrated into the contemporary concept and language of the use of space. The highlight is the spectacular floral motif moulding on the high ceiling in the master bedroom. The task of cleaning and restoration was entrusted to a professional restorer and the ceiling was repainted in the same colour, distinguishing it from the vertical walls. The furniture in the same room was custom-designed to allow the original moulding feature to be visible from all sides.

p Parts of the original structure were left exposed, adding an underlay of texture to the contemporary redesign. { Smooth and rough surfaces combine with natural materials to create a textured aesthetic. u Smooth clean lines define the contemporary bathroom design.

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T&F RENOVATION

he overall warm and cosy atmosphere was achieved through the judicious use of key materials and the sensitive treatment of original design elements, including the high ceilings with their intricate mouldings, an old marble fireplace and the woodwork of the doors and windows. In line with this concept, parts of the brick wall, showing the original traditional construction system, were left exposed where the metal reinforcement became a central element in the design. n

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p The social spaces flow into each other, increaing the penetration of natural light and the overall sense of space. u The high-ceiling dining area is well lit by the tall French windows.

Buy now pay later OPENING HOURS - MON TO FRI 9AM TO 8PM | SAT 9AM TO 6PM SUNDAY & PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 10AM TO 6PM

T&F TRENDS

t Meridiana Wine Estate’s Nexus DOK Malta is a premium red wine made exclusively from hand-picked Maltese Merlot grapes. Nexus has a clear, deep, purple-red colour; intense, ripe, cherryplum aromas; and rich, well-structured, fruit flavours with soft tannins and a long finish. For more information about Meridiana’s complete range of wines please visit www.meridiana. com.mt or you may also find us on Facebook. Trade enquiries: S Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

p The Phoenix Restaurant is a little piece of history nestled snugly into the grandeur of The Phoenicia, an unusually large room filled with natural light and adorned with rich fabrics, enhanced by patterned walls, colourful carpets and fine chandeliers. The quality of design is reflected in the culinary feats of the award-winning brigade of chefs. Here you can enjoy the fresh taste of the Mediterranean with the carefully crafted menu using only the finest ingredients. Open for dinner and weekend brunch, The Phoenix Restaurant eagerly awaits your visit. The Phoenicia Malta. Tel: +356 2122 5241, dine@phoeniciamalta.com, www.phoeniciamalta.com

t Les Bretèches is a quintessential Lebanese wine. With a finely spiced nose of blackcurrant and cherry, it reveals silky tannins and generous red fruits flavours. Facebook. com/attardcowines, www.attardcowines.com

u Tua Rita - Rosso dei Notri IGT has a deep ruby red colour, and aromas of black fruits, namely blackberries, plums and ripe black cherries, over more subtle notes of cocoa, liquorice, and sweet spice. On the palate, the wine is smooth, with silky tannins and bracing acidity, showing structural balance long into the finish. The blend is 50% Sangiovese and 50% blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Pair this wine with prosciuttowrapped asparagus, spice-rubbed chicken, or lasagne Bolognese with béchamel sauce. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. tel. +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@ abrahams.com.mt www.viniecapricci.com

t Real Thai Sweet Chilli Sauce is made in Thailand using a traditional Thai recipe and the finest ingredients. This flavourful sauce is a perfect marinade for barbeque meats and poultry. To spice up your stir fry or used as a dip for appetisers, the sauce is a perfect complement to a variety of foods. The classic Real Thai Spring Rolls Sauce is perfect for dipping your spring rolls in and also adds taste and spice to your food. Trade Enquiries: Attard & Co. Food Ltd, tel. 2123 7555. Facebook.com/attardcofood

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p Ginger and Lime Infuso by Twinings. The warm spicy tingle of ginger. The fresh, fragrant zap of lime peel. A new twist on the classic lemon and ginger combo, this zippy and intense infusion is simply bursting with tangy tastes. The ‘Infuso’ range is an ideal option for those looking for a treat that is both delicious and good for you. Distributed by Francis Busuttil & Sons (Marketing) Ltd., tel. +356 25497 000, www.fbsmarketing.com

p Taste the continents with our themed Sunday lunch menus served at Silver Heron restaurant within Urban Valley Resort & Spa. Our Sunday Buffet lunches offer an enriching distinctive variety of antipasti and mezes, soups and pasta, tasty carvery and roasts, hot dishes and accompaniments, and cheese and dessert stations, all featuring tastes and flavours from around the globe. A culinary feast of American, Asian, Mediterranean and African cuisines awaits discovery, to whet your appetite. Book your table by calling us on 2138 5926 or email info@urbanvalleyresort.com

DESIGN IDEAS T&F

Twiggy Floor Lamp by Foscarini. A fine arched line, a flexible sign which, as if by magic, suspends a large diffuser in mid-air: this is Twiggy, a floor lamp that meets multiple setting and lighting requirements. Available at Elektra Ltd, Qormi.

Add a touch of light and sparkle to your festive season decorations with these beautiful illuminated faux crystal reindeer figures, also suitable for external use. Featured here is the galloping reindeer (H: 85cm). Other ranges are also available. Find them in store now at ESS Ltd, Triq San Gwakkin, Zone 4, Central Business District, Birkirkara.

ALIM SIDE TABLES by Dutchbone. Alim nesting set of 3 side tables has a cosmopolitan character. Each tabletop has its own handsome finish: brass, metal and antique copper. The warm tones of the tabletops are accentuated by the black powder coated metal legs. Spread these nesting side tables when entertaining and arrange them together after your guests have left. No matter how you use them, placed together or alone, next to a favourite chair, Dutchbone›s Alim tables bring an interesting glow into the room. Dutchbone at Form, Valley Road, Msida.

NEW Editions to the Porcelanosa Collection. Bottega Calizia & Mosa Calizia. Floor Tiles 120cm x 120cm, Wall Tiles 45cm x 120cm. In Stock from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara. Take a walk on the wild side with the New collection from Arte - WildWalk. Wall coverings create an extension of your personality. Come and see our extensive collections at Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara.

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T&F EXHIBITION

Inspired by the east: how the Islamic world influenced western art The Joseph Hotung Great Court Gallery, British Museum Open until 26 January 2020

he representation of the east in western arts often blurred the lines between fantasy and reality. As an art movement, Orientalism reached its height during the 19th century when western artists began visiting the Middle East and North Africa in greater numbers. Orientalism in painting is the best known form, but its influence extends across many types of visual and decorative arts including ceramics, photography, glass, jewellery, manuscripts and clothing, as well as contemporary art. Today, Orientalism is a highly charged and contested term, but while Orientalist arts and crafts rapidly declined in popularity from the 1940s onwards, its visual language has remained a potent resource for some artists. Inspired by the east: how the Islamic world influenced western art charts the long and complex cultural interactions between Europe and North America in the ‘west’, and North Africa and the Middle East in the ‘east’, tracing the origins of Orientalism to the 1500s. Objects from the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia are displayed outside Malaysia for the first time, alongside key objects from the British Museum’s world-class Islamic collection, as well as a number of other loans. Important works in the exhibition are paintings by leading Orientalists including Eugène Delacroix, John Frederick Lewis and Frederick Arthur Bridgman, as well as significant but less familiar pieces, such as British artist Edmund Dulac’s original illustrations for a 1907 edition of the Arabian Nights, and ceramics by Théodore Deck, a leading French ceramicist who in the late nineteenth century created a range of pieces directly inspired by Islamic originals. Part of the exhibition is dedicated to how some artists from the Islamic world turned the Orientalist gaze back on itself during he 19th and early 20th centuries. The adoption of European ar tistic styles and technologies – particularly photography – was embraced and promoted by social elites, who, like their contemporaries in Paris and London, were active participants in the artistic and cultural trends of the period. Highlights include works by pioneering Ottoman photographer Pascal Sébah, and exquisitely decorated portrait medals from the Middle East but heavily influenced by European styles. The exhibition is a collaboration with the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia (IAMM) and includes a major loan of objects from the Kuala Lumpur-based institution, their first appearance outside of Malaysia. n

The next issue of will be out on 1st Decenber 2019 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt

T&F CHRISTMAS GIFTS

Delectable

Gifts

Fragranced natural wax candles. A timeless collection of highly fragranced natural wax candles in a lovely container complete with a paper weight lid. Grey & Adler, Toni Bajada Street, Naxxar. Tel: 2740 6407 www.greyandadler.com

M&S Traditional Christmas Hamper is a classic. Enjoy a rich fruity glass of mulled wine, with a traditional Christmas pudding. The always popular Jaffa cakes are great with a bottle of red wine. All-butter mini-shortbread trees melt in your mouth. For those with a sweet tooth, find delicious caramels, paired with gorgeous Prosecco, or for chilly nights in, a cup of Christmas tea. Find all these amazing treats, perfectly combined in a hamper, just in time for Christmas. M&S Traditional Christmas Hamper: €29.95. Spend €100 and get a free gift worth €30. Get a special gift for your loved ones and another one for yourself with Joinwell. Our Christmas offer is back. Spend €100 on Villeroy & Boch, Rivièra Maison, Eightmood or any other brand from our Home Section and we’ll treat you back with a free gift. Caring and sharing with Joinwell.

Bespoke hampers filled with unusual premium quality and artisan products that literally stand out from all the rest? Dical House of Mosta is the place to visit. An extensive selection of gourmet products hailing from various countries, many of which are produced in small, limited batches. Think ahead to enjoy the widest choice possible. Get in touch with our corporate managers to create exclusive gifts and hampers based on your taste and budgets. Call on 2142 4600/1 or send an email to foods@dicalgroup.com today. Dical House is open all day every day even during the run-up to the Festive season. www.dicalhouse.com

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Spiritual Liquids. A wonderful gift or a great first step into the world of whiskies, this handsome wooden box contains the elixir that will see its owner through the festive season and beyond. Grey & Adler, Toni Bajada Street, Naxxar. Tel: 2740 6407 www.greyandadler.com

Material: Cement Patterned Tiles Flooring. Photo: Espais Roca.