TASTE&FLAIR APRIL 2022 ISSUE No145 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 145 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Happy Easter

FOOD · WINE · ART · CONTEMPORARY INTERIORS

APRIL 2022

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

think quality, get comfort, live luxury.

YOUR PERFECT KITCHEN COMPANION NEFF and Lagostina work in perfect harmony, enticing you to create culinary masterpieces, from the pan to the oven.

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt | www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL Michael Diacono’s Broad bean and pea ‘Scotch eggs’. See feature starting on page 30. Photograph: Brian Grech

Welcome I

n times of uncertainty, it’s always good to have something to look forward to and food, however simple or extravagant, is always something to celebrate. If a formal festive lunch is not your thing, try serving up a laid-back brunch. You could buy in lots of little dishes for a casual buffet, or invest some time in putting together your own medley. We’ve got a few ideas for you inside these pages. Seasonal produce is a good place to start. Michael Diacono cooks up new ways of serving a bean that has fed the Mediterranean for millennia; Claire Borg’s gorgeous desserts are a feast for the eyes and a deliciously tempting way to finish off a meal; and our Easter brunch includes recipes that could be served any day you just want something quick and easy to prepare. If you have a bit more time, try making your own Lenten bread from Mandy Mallia’s recipe. For a feast for the eyes, take a look at Megan Mallia’s meander through the world of food in art, and for design inspiration, turn to our features on contemporary interiors. We’ll be back in May with another fabulous issue. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Crown daisy Glebionis coronaria (Lellux Żigland), spring field, Bidnija.

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T&F CONTENTS

p68

p11

p43

A taste of tradition Mandy Mallia’s Lenten bread

Queen of the dessert Claire Borg’s sweet temptations

28 p30

Profit and pleasure Andrew Azzopardi on investing in wine

CONTENTS 43

Seasonal bounty Michael Diacono’s new ways with beans

Easter brunch Light and easy

A visual feast Megan Mallia explores food in art

Domestic harmony Marrying different tastes in style

p52

A room with a view How a show flat turned into a home

p15 8

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p54

PAY YOUR BILLS WHEREVER YOU ARE

Talk to us | bov.com |

@bovofficial

Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Żakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130. Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).

T&F PROMOTION

Springtime at

VALLETTA WATERFRONT

alletta Waterfront is a contemporary destination anchored in a historical context. With evocative scenery of the Grand Harbour, Valletta Waterfront is home to 13 diverse catering outlets: perfect for a cup of coffee or a leisurely meal, with both indoor and outdoor seating. Enjoy live entertainment, and a variety of products to browse and purchase. Valletta Waterfront is easily accessible. It’s just a short stroll from Valletta and the Gozo Fast Ferry Terminal, plus ample parking – excellent for a family day out, or to catch up with friends.

www.vallettawaterfront.com

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TRADITION T&F

Qagħqa

tal-Appostli Fill your home with the evocative scent and taste of freshly baked Lenten bread. Baking: Mandy Mallia • Photography: Megan Mallia

Makes: 1 loaf

Preparation & baking: 1 hour, plus resting time YOU WILL NEED

500gr plain flour 12g dry yeast ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon sugar 280ml warm water 2 tablespoons olive oil a sprinkling of semolina TO FINISH

1 egg mixed with 2 tablespoons water (for egg wash) 12 almonds sesame seeds

1. Sift the flour into a mixing bowl and stir in

4. Knock back the dough to remove large air bubbles, knead it lightly, and shape it into a ring. Transfer this to a round baking tray lined with baking paper and sprinkled with semolina. Stretch the dough ring and flatten it slightly to fill most of the baking tray.

2. When the yeast has bubbled up, mix the ingredients together to form a dough. If you use a mechanical mixer, use a dough hook at low speed. Check the texture of the dough. It should be smooth and elastic. If it is too sticky, add a bit more flour.

5. Cover the tray loosely with cling film or

the salt. Stir the sugar into a cupful of warm water until it dissolves, then add the yeast. Make a well in the middle of the flour. Pour in the olive oil and then the yeast water. Let it stand for a few minutes while the yeast activates.

3. Knead the dough lightly and shape it

into a ball. Put it in a lightly oiled bowl and cover that loosely with cling film or a damp cloth to stop the dough drying out. Leave the bowl in a warm place until the dough doubles in size (about an hour).

a slightly damp cloth and set it aside for the dough to rise. Leave it for about 20-30 minutes. Any longer, and it will rise too much.

6. Preheat oven to 180°C (gas mark 4).

Brush the surface of the dough with the egg wash, sprinkle it with sesame seeds and push in 12 evenly-spaced almonds.

7. Bake the bread for around 30 minutes until it is lightly golden. This is best served on the day it is made.

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T&F PROMOTION

Mediterranean ingredients, bold flavours

Le Bistro

It’s the small things that make the most difference. Stepping into a restaurant for the first time, there are always several elements at play, attracting, impacting, making a significant and a lasting impression.

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he senses are always heightened in new contexts – the eyes dart, desperately trying to soak up every inch of space (despite the moody lighting), clocking as many details as possible. The ears perk up to any sound, to the music, to the volume of the chitter chatter from staff or patrons, while the nose eagerly sniffs around for pleasant or familiar smells that tap into our mind’s picture bank and our intricate web of memories. And all this, in anticipation of the activation of the most important of all senses in this context: the sense of taste. Le Bistro – housed within the Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s - is quietly unassuming in its design and aesthetic. Neutral tones impart a sense of calm and ease, yet there is simultaneously something chic and elegant about the interior - a pleasant introduction to the welcoming and attentive staff, the masterful plating and the flavourful culinary experience to be had within.

PROMOTION T&F

Tables are well-distanced to allow for privacy and intimacy. The light from the candle creates dancing shadows on the table’s surface, while reflecting and refracting from the tall wine glasses. Despite the facemasks, smiling eyes greet guests and patrons and well-trained voices explain menus and specials. The list is considerable, as is the tantalising choice of possibilities. Starter vis-à-vis dessert…? Which to keep, which to “lose”. Perhaps both can be enjoyed, if courses are shared, rather than consumed solo. The wine list includes a few favourites such as a dark and full bodied Primitivo - the perfect pairing for a variety of main courses including Barbary Duck and Beef Tagliata, ordered with a starter to share, such as the enticing homemade chargrilled trio of sausages. A basket of deliciously warm bread, coupled with homemade olive oil, herb butter and a particularly sweet yet spicy tomato purée, comfort eager taste buds as the sense of anticipation mounts for the starter, main course, and of course dessert.

Good food can be compared to a book, a movie or to a piece of music. There should be a steady crescendo leading up to the main “plot” or happening. Once the plot is revealed, or the peak in music achieved, the build up to that crucial moment must be slowly released, while the process can be finally and fully appreciated. An introduction, the body, and a conclusion: Words can hardly do justice to the explosion of well-rounded, complementary flavours, to the ambience or to the meticulously artful plating. Dining at Le Bistro has it all and, truth be told, a little more. Truly, it is an experience to be savoured. n Le Bistro is open Monday to Thursday from 6pm to 10pm, and Friday and Saturday from 6pm to 10.30pm. As from the 10th April Le Bistro will be open for Sunday lunch. To book your table, call on 2137 4894 or visit www.lebistromalta.com. Free parking is available to diners on a first-come, first-served basis.

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from Monday 4TH April

s e r o t S r u o t i Vis r and Discove a lot of Specialties

800g pack

Deluxe

Argentinian Prawns

11.99

1kg = € 14.99

Big on Quality, Lidl on Price

SWEETS T&F

QUEENOF

THE DESSERT Spices and dark chocolate bring a taste of the exotic to homelier ingredients like fruit, cheese, and freshly made pastry. There’s nothing like a luscious dessert, and these scrumptious sweets are irresistible, perfect for rounding off a meal or brightening up a quiet afternoon. Food and photography by Claire Borg

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T&F SWEETS

‘PARIS-BREST’

WITH HONEY AND FRESH VANILLA PASTRY CREAM

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SWEETS T&F

Paris-Brest was named for the route of a bicycle race that runs from the French capital to Brest, a naval town in Brittany. In its traditional form, the circle of choux pastry – said to evoke the shape of a bicycle wheel – is filled with praline crème mousseline. I filled these with a vanilla version. FOR THE CHOUX PASTRY

80g butter 200ml water 4g sugar 4g salt 125g plain flour 200g eggs (approximately 3 large ones or 4 small) FOR THE CUSTARD

500ml milk ½ a vanilla pod 125g sugar 40g custard powder 80g egg yolks 30g butter TO ASSEMBLE

300ml whipping cream 300g pastry cream 2 tablespoons honey icing sugar

1. To make the choux pastry, put the

butter, water, salt, and sugar in a pan and bring it to the boil, stirring the mixture gently to combine the ingredients. Remove the pan from the heat and add the sifted flour all at once. Stir well until the mixture is even. Return the pan to the heat and cook it, while stirring, for about 2 minutes.

2. Remove from the pan from the heat and transfer the mixture to a mixer bowl. Using the paddle attachment, beat the pastry until it is cold. Lightly beat the eggs with a fork and add them to the mixing bowl a little at a time until they are well combined. 3. Preheat the oven to 140°C. Using a piping bag with a large nozzle, pipe 10cm pastry circles onto a greased baking sheet (or one lined with non-stick baking paper).

8. Wrap the bowl in cling film, ensuring

that the cling film touches the whole surface of the custard to prevent a crust forming, and store the bowl in the fridge until you need it.

9. Using a whisk, beat the whipping cream

until soft peaks form, but be careful to not whip it so much that it becomes buttery. Mix the honey into the custard and then fold the custard into the whipped cream.

10. Transfer the cream mixture to a

piping bag. Slice open a choux circle across the middle, pipe a layer of cream onto one half, top it with the other half and press it down lightly. Repeat with the other choux circles. Serve these dusted with icing sugar.

4. Bake the choux circles in the preheated oven for 25 minutes. Now, turn up the heat to 160°C and bake them for another 12 minutes. Turn off the oven, open the oven door, and let the baked pastry circles cool on the baking tray. 5. To make the cream filling, start

by scraping the vanilla pod into a pan of milk and bringing it to the boil. Meanwhile, in another bowl, mix the egg yolks, custard powder and sugar together.

6. Once the milk starts to boil, turn off

the heat and add a little of the milk to the custard mix while whisking it. Now, remove the vanilla pod from the milk pan and scrape the custard mixture into the pan, whisk it, and return the pan to the heat.

7. Keep whisking the mixture steadily as it cooks and thickens into custard. Remove the pan from the stove and transfer the custard to a mixing bowl. Add 30g of cold butter and keep whisking the custard until it cools down completely.

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T&F SWEETS

Guinness and Dark Chocolate Vegan Cheesecake For this, I used chocolate with 75% cocoa but if you want a sweeter version of the cake, use a lighter chocolate and add more maple syrup. FOR THE BASE

200g Bourbon creams (chocolate biscuits) 65g vegan butter FOR THE FILLING

350g silken tofu juice of a small lemon 25g cocoa powder 150g natural vegan cream cheese 300g vegan chocolate 1 large can Guinness 60g maple syrup

1. Blitz the biscuits in a blender until

finely ground. Melt the vegan butter and mix it in. Scoop the paste into an 8-inch springform cake tin and pat it down firmly to compress it. Use the base of a jar or a glass to make sure it is pressed down well. Place the tin in freezer while you prepare the rest of the cheesecake. 2. Over a low heat, reduce the beer till it weighs 180g. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool. 3. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of boiling water (bain marie). Stir occasionally to prevent the chocolate from caramelising. Once it has melted down, turn off the heat and set the bowl aside. 4. Put the cocoa powder, maple syrup, cream cheese, tofu, lemon juice and reduced beer into a food processor and blend the mixture until it is very smooth. Fold in the melted chocolate and blend the mixture until it is well combined. 5. Pour the mixture over the biscuit

base and pat it down. Leave the cheesecake in the fridge overnight to set. Serve this garnished with fresh fruit or vegan chocolate shavings.

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SWEETS T&F

Tahini and Honey Biscuits I used a toasted sesame paste (tahini) which I bought from an Asian food store. It makes the biscuits taste even nuttier. For a milder flavour, use the regular tahini made from untoasted sesame seeds. These biscuits will keep well in an airtight container. YOU WILL NEED

200g tahini 100g honey 100g sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla essence 2 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 300g pure ground almonds 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 100g sesame seeds

1. Using the whisk attachment in

your mixer, beat together the sugar, honey, tahini, vanilla essence and eggs until smooth. In another bowl, mix the bicarbonate of soda with the ground almonds, and stir the mixture evenly into the tahini mix.

2. Using lightly wet hands, shape the dough into balls of approximately 15g each and roll each one in sesame seeds until it is well coated. Place the dough balls on a lined baking tray (I used two trays and baked twice), leaving plenty of space between them. Use the flat of your hand to press each dough ball into a flat cookie. 3. Bake the cookies at 170°C for 11 minutes or until they turn golden. Remove the tray from the oven and let the cookies cool in it for a few minutes. Use a palette to transfer the cooled biscuits onto cooling rack. Once they cool down, transfer them to an airtight container.

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T&F SWEETS

Vanilla and Tonka Bean Crème Brûlée Tonka beans are actually highly aromatic seeds that are harvested from the Amazon rainforest. You only need a small amount to infuse this dessert with an intense flavour. If you cannot find any tonka beans, use a whole vanilla pod instead.

Makes 6-8 servings YOU WILL NEED

500ml whipping cream 70g egg yolks 1 egg ½ a vanilla pod ½ a tonka bean 75g sugar extra sugar for serving

1. Put the cream into a pan, scrape

in the vanilla pod, grate in the tonka bean, and stir. Warm the cream gently then let the pan stand for 30 minutes while the flavours infuse.

2. Mix the eggs with the sugar, then mix in the cream. Strain the mixture and discard any leftover bits. Pour the flavoured cream into oven-proof cups or ramekins and place them in a baking dish. 3. Pour hot water into the dish until it is half way up the cups/ramekins. Set the oven to 120°C and bake them for an hour. Check the cream at around 50 minutes and, again, another 10 minutes later. When done, it should be set but a bit wobbly when taken out of oven. 4. Remove the tray from the oven and let the cream cool down completely. Next, place the cups in the fridge. 5. Before serving, sprinkle the surface

of the cream with sugar and use a blow torch to caramelise it.

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T&F SWEETS

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SWEETS T&F

Cardamom and Star Anise Poached Pear cheesecake I had various packets of biscuits open, so rather than opening a new packet of a particular type, I used a combination of butter stem ginger biscuits, marie biscuits, and a few digestive biscuits too.

FOR THE BISCUIT BASE

300g crushed biscuits 100g butter FOR THE POACHED PEARS

200g sugar 100g butter 1l elderflower tonic water 6 green cardamom pods 6 pieces of star anise 8-10 small pears, peeled FOR THE FILLING

600g cream cheese 3 eggs 2 egg yolks 200g sugar 50g whipping cream ½ a vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla paste 40g plain flour

1. Bring the tonic water to a

simmer in a medium-sized pan and then turn off the heat.

2. Make a dry caramel by cooking the sugar alone in a clean pan until it turns golden. Add the butter and stir it in using a whisk. Slowly and carefully, while whisking, add the hot tonic water to the caramel and keep mixing until it is all incorporated. 3. Add the star anise and the cardamom. Place the pears into the syrup, making sure they are submerged. Let them simmer for 30 minutes until they are soft and cooked. Skim off the froth and discard it. 4. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pears and set them aside. Let the syrup simmer gently until it thickens and reduces, then remove the pan from the heat. Discard the spices or set them aside to use as a garnish. Let the pears and syrup cool down, then put them in the fridge for later use.

6. Using the whisk attachment on

your mixer, beat together the flour, sugar and cream cheese. Add the remaining ingredients and whip the mixture until it is smooth. Pour this over the biscuit base in the tin, wrap the tin with thick foil and place it in a roasting tray.

7. Pour hot water into the roasting tray until it reaches ¾ of the way up the cake tin. Bake the cake at 160°C for about 90 minutes. When done, the cheesecake should wobbly but set. 8. When it is done, take the cake

out of the oven and let it cool in the tin. When totally cold, place it in the fridge for 4 hours or, even better, overnight.

9. To assemble the cake, first warm

the caramel syrup to a pouring consistency. Arrange the poached pears on top of the cheesecake and use a squeezy bottle to drizzle the caramel over them.

5. Blitz the biscuits until they

are like fine sand and mix in the melted butter. Scoop the mixture into a 10” springform round baking tin and pat it down evenly until it is well compressed.

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T&F SWEETS

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SWEETS T&F

Quick Strawberry and Custard Millefoglie Flaky pastry with a creamy filling and fresh sweet strawberries are a tempting combination. You can fill these with fresh whipped cream, pastry cream, or custard. I used the custard from the ‘Paris-Brest’ recipe. The pastry and filling can be prepared ahead and the dessert assembled just before serving.

Makes 6 YOU WILL NEED

1 roll ready-made puff pastry 15-18 strawberries, washed and sliced toasted flaked almonds icing sugar Pastry cream or custard

1. Make the custard ahead and store it

in the fridge until you need it.

2. Line a baking tray with non-stick paper. Unroll the puff pastry, cut it up into 12 even-sized rectangles, and place these on the lined tray. 3. Heat the oven to 210°C and bake the pastry until it turns golden on both top and bottom. Remove the tray from the oven and let the pastry cool on a wire rack. 4. Just before serving, assemble the pastries by first piping the filling onto a base and adding a layer of sliced strawberries and then another piece of pastry. Pipe a bit of filling on the second pastry layer and top that with sliced strawberries. Repeat with the rest of the pastry. 5. Sprinkle the pastries with flaked almonds and a

dusting of icing sugar and serve immediately.

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T&F PROMOTION

ELEVATING the

Leisurely Lunch

Renowned culinary destination Corinthia Palace has just introduced Laid-Back Lunching at Villa Corinthia. Executive Head Chef STEFAN HOGAN explains how this exciting new concept adds a five-star touch to a relaxed Sunday lunch. Photography Brian Grech.

ith its award-winning culinary team, Corinthia Palace is a gastronomic experience. From allday dining to an indulgent afternoon tea at Villa Corinthia, from a Far Eastern-inspired dinner to a speciality coffee and plant-based food at Josephine’s, Corinthia Palace leads the way for sheer culinary variety. Now, its latest concept will transform yet another food moment into a five-star experience. Every Sunday, LaidBack Lunching takes the much-loved concept of traditional Sunday lunch and adds to it Corinthia Palace’s signature flair 26

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for flavour, a unique setting and masterfully delicious food. “This is the ultimate unrushed Sunday lunch,” says Corinthia Palace Executive Head Chef Stefan Hogan. “Inside the beautiful Villa Corinthia, guests can enjoy a leisurely lunch with flavourful food, great music from a live DJ and innovative sharing plates – while sipping a refreshing cocktail, freshly mixed at their table by our bartender using our house-infused gins and vodkas from the cocktail trolley. Customised, table-side service of this kind adds a special touch of old-school luxury to a laid-back lunch. This is classic

PROMOTION T&F

“Inside the beautiful Villa Corinthia, guests can enjoy a leisurely lunch with flavourful food, great music from a live DJ and innovative sharing plates – while sipping a refreshing cocktail, freshly mixed at their table by our bartender using our house-infused gins and vodkas from the cocktail trolley.” sophistication blended with the modern family lunchtime to bookend the week in style.” The Laid-Back Lunching menu features foods that family and friends might share over lunch – with a Corinthia twist. Seasonally evolving sharing plates open and close the meal with tasty combinations such as burrata with orange, pink grapefruit, coriander and lavender oil or crispy fried calamari with nori salt and a charcoal oil emulsion. Chef Hogan and his team have carefully curated the four-course menu so that diners can pace themselves, sampling from the sharing plates before reaching their Grand Finale main course. Here, guests can choose from mouth-watering mains such as grilled striploin with portobello mushroom, charred tomato roast onion and thyme jus or roasted pumpkin with miso-glazed baby carrots, ezme butternut squash purée and pumpkin seed oil, before indulging in a spread of sharing desserts. Music completes the relaxed, yet elegant atmosphere inside Villa Corinthia. Live DJ Don Peltrinsky will set the scene with chill-out tunes, as the ideal backdrop for dining and

conversation. By incorporating music, Laid-Back Lunching honours Villa Corinthia’s long heritage, while preparing this historic venue for an equally extraordinary future. “Villa Corinthia lends itself to timeless elegance. It is the ideal setting for a menu designed to showcase wholesome, delicious food served in a new way,” continues Chef Hogan. “Laid-Back Lunching elevates the holistic experience of comfort and excellent food, with a striking setting, vibrant atmosphere and five-star service.” n Scan the QR Code to view the full menu More information about Laid-Back Lunching at Corinthia Palace is available at www.corinthia.com/palace-hotel-and-spa/restaurants-bars/

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T&F WINE

TURNING A PASSION FOR WINE INTO INVESTMENT Andrew Azzopardi on how wine can pay dividends in both profit and pleasure.

The "cave des vieux millesimes" at Chateau Haut Brion in Pessac-Léognan

The author at Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion

arren Buffet allegedly said that “when you’re truly passionate about life and what you’re doing, you’ll wake up early, stay up late, and tap dance to work.” Though I cannot confirm whether he really said it or not, I subscribe to that line of thinking. It’s no secret that I have a passion for wine. It’s not my only passion in life, but one that takes centre stage. Wine taught me history and geography in the most enjoyable of ways. Fine wine is bottled history – every time you drink a glass of wine you are drinking a small piece of history from a particular geographical location. Every wine tells us a story, but only great wine evokes emotion. A passionate winemaker’s objective is to try and fill the consumer with a feeling. Just like fine art can bring out certain feelings and emotions, so does wine and it’s easy to become passionate about it. I’ve collected several bottles over the years. Some are of extremely sentimental value while others are not so much. Collecting wine is not the cheapest hobby around and, considering that I don’t have the deepest of pockets, it sometimes gets rather difficult to sustain the habit. I try my best to buy wine at the best possible price and this has served me well over the years. Most of my collection is worth way more than what I paid for it initially. But that’s not the main goal if I’m to eventually drink it anyway, right? That’s where I feel my wine-collecting passion has somewhat changed. I still don’t buy wine that I have no interest in drinking, but I would buy wine with the aim of

reselling. When one is forced to look beyond the dismal rates of a savings account, the volatility of stocks and shares, or the volatility of the apparent property bubble, combining your passion with investment can sound rather enticing. The current financial scenario looks uncertain both in Malta and internationally. The world is still reeling from a global pandemic, and while businesses and the tourism sector are hoping to bounce back fast, war and political turmoil on the horizon concern even the savviest of investors. Political instability is worrying, but as Forbes magazine described wine investment in late 2020, “wine offers a safe yet profitable haven for your capital, with very low correlation to the stock market”. Wine is historically a stable and safe performer in times of financial difficulty. This was proven during both the 2008 financial crisis and the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2008, the fine wine market fell a negligible 0.6% compared to a 38% drop in the S&P 500 and again, between January and March 2020, the S&P 500 Global Luxury Index fell 24% against the relatively small drop of 4% on fine wine (according to Liv-ex 1000). Traditional investments are all about corporate growth and economic activity, where the value of the investment is based purely on what kind of economic output it can produce, rather than on the cultural or aesthetic value. On the other hand, passion investments such as wine are defined by their rarity and quality, and by demand. As global wealth grows, the demand for such products increases, raising the value further. Better

To buy wine today is to buy a moment in history.

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WINE T&F

I still don’t buy wine that I have no interest in drinking, but I would buy wine with the aim of reselling.

Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac

Private dining room, Château Palmer, Margaux

However, as investors know, the old adage of history not being a guarantor for the future still rings true. Wine is constantly evolving, such that no vintage will be repeated. Furthermore, climate change is one of the factors ensuring wine will continue to change and evolve. What was Bordeaux in the eighties is no longer Bordeaux now, and Bordeaux in ten years’ time will be more different still. To buy wine today is to buy a moment in history. Unlike other investments, investing in wine automatically makes you part of an exclusive and exciting club. You are invited to special lunches, private tastings and privileged tours of wine producers’ vineyards. Many of the super-premium wineries are not accessible to the general public, but only for people in the trade. It’s not a matter of money, but a matter of genuine passion and vested interest in their wines that will make them open their doors – and once their doors are opened, you can expect to be treated like the proverbial royalty. As an investor in their wines, you suddenly have access to accommodation in their private Chateaux and are served champagne for breakfast. You are whisked away to their private wine cellars where they are often happy to open a bottle of one of their most prized and rare bottles to show their appreciation of your investment. You will be shown round their vineyards where they will enthusiastically explain how they have moved into more sustainable vineyard practices or how they stopped ploughing the soil in order not the destroy the communication between vines. They share their love for their vines, the soil and all the organisms that live beneath, and you are guaranteed to fall further in love with their wines and ideologies. Their approach to business is a breath of fresh-air and I don’t just mean in the real sense of natural expanse, but in how they respect nature at every level. Though, for example, honey is a welcome by-product of the introduction of bees to the vineyards to fend off unwanted pests, the winemakers would only take tiny samples of the honey for their own consumption, so as not to disrupt the balance of the ecosystem. This is the type of industry that I want to invest in – one that often puts quality before profit and where nature is the primary focus. An industry that has started to realise that what we put into the earth will be returned twofold. Though wine has proven to be a stable investment, I am not guaranteed to make huge returns, but I am guaranteed an experience that will allow me to tap dance my way to work tomorrow.

Every wine tells us a story, but only great wine evokes emotion. Château Phélan Ségur, Saint-Estèphe

still, wine is a finite product where a limited number of bottles are produced after each vintage and there is no way a producer can increase production to satisfy increasing demand. Globally, the number of UHNWI (Ultra High Net Worth Individuals) rose by 9.3% in 2021 and the number of people with assets worth $30 million or more is forecast to grow by 43% over the next 10 years, far outpacing general population growth over the same period, according to The Knight Frank “wealth report 2022”. Investors and new millionaires looking for new passion investments become more of a driving force in the intentional investing marketplace. But even nonmillionaires can invest profitably, though more modestly, in quality wines. According to the fine wine marketplace, Liv-EX, wine was the highest performing luxury asset in the past 12 months in comparison to luxury cars, art, gold, and diamonds.

Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust.

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T&F IN SEASON

“Our short spring season brings with it a selection of delicious vegetables, one of them being the broad bean - a very important crop in Malta, which, after the potato, I would say counts as our national vegetable. Strangely enough, although I love ful cooked in any way, I just cannot eat them raw.”

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IN SEASON T&F

BEAN BOUNTY Broad beans are popular in the Mediterranean region and the Levant, where evidence of their cultivation dates back some 10,000 years. Inevitably, they are a springtime favourite here in Malta too. Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, serves up the seasonal bean in refreshing new ways. Photography: Brian Grech • Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi

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T&F IN SEASON

Spaghetti neri with broad beans, prawns and king oyster mushrooms A few ingredients make for a beautiful and easy dish which is sure to impress. This recipe uses just the caps of the mushrooms. The stalks can be reserved for later use.

Serves: 4 as a starter

YOU WILL NEED

75ml extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped chilli 8 king oyster mushrooms, caps only 16 medium-sized prawns, peeled salt and pepper 250g black spaghetti 200g shelled and peeled fresh broad beans a little fresh parsley, finely chopped TO SERVE

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 80g fine fresh breadcrumbs 1clove garlic, finely minced ½ teaspoon paprika

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1. Prepare the fried breadcrumbs first.

Simply heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small frying pan. Add the garlic and cook it for a few seconds, then add the breadcrumbs and paprika. Stir fry for a few minutes till the breadcrumbs are coloured and crunchy. Remove the pan from the heat and let the breadcrumbs cool.

2. Put a large pot of salted water on the heat to bring it to the boil and cook the pasta while you cook the mushrooms and prawns.

Preparation & cooking: 30 minutes

Recommended wine: Bordeaux Blanc (white)

3. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Add the garlic and some chilli, if using. Cook this for a few seconds only then add the oyster mushroom caps and the prawns. Stir fry gently, and then season. 4. A minute before the pasta cooking time is up, add the broad beans to the pot. Then drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water, and swiftly transfer it to the large pan. Add chopped parsley to the mix and toss it over a very high heat to reduce the liquid. 5. Serve the pasta immediately, topped

with the fried breadcrumbs.

IN SEASON T&F

Broad bean and leek soup Another great vegetable to make its appearance in springtime is the Maltese leek. Sweet and with such a delicate flavour they marry so well with ful to create this beautifully coloured soup. I served this with a quenelle of ricotta, simply beaten with some broad beans and mint. 1. Peel the leeks and discard the tough

top bits. Cut them into thick slices and then wash them very well.

Serves: 6 persons

Preparation & cooking: 1 hour

Recommended wine: Chablis

YOU WILL NEED

4 medium-sized Maltese leeks. 20g butter 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 1.2l water salt and white pepper 500g fresh broad beans, without pod and second skin

2. Heat the butter and extra-virgin olive oil in a large pot. When the butter has melted, add the drained leeks and sweat them for a few minutes, stirring often. Add the chopped potatoes and stir well. Cook for a further 2 minutes.

3. Add the water and bring it to the boil. Season the soup with salt and white pepper, then lower the heat, cover the pot and let it simmer for 30 minutes till the potatoes are soft. 4. Uncover the pot, add the broad beans and boil the soup for 5 minutes only. Remove the pot from the heat and blend the soup using a stick blender. For an extra smooth finish, run the soup through a Mouli.

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T&F IN SEASON

Broad bean and pea ‘Scotch eggs’ Scotch eggs seem to be the flavour of the month right now, so I decided to ride the wave as well and make them with broad beans and fresh peas. The results are delicious and ideal as a starter, served with dressed rucola. Taste&Flair note: Panko breadcrumbs are made from crustless white bread, shredded into flakes which are then dried. They absorb less oil and have a lighter, crunchier texture than conventional breadcrumbs.

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IN SEASON T&F

Makes: 8 pieces

Preparation Recommended wine: & cooking: Crémant de Bourgogne or similar 1 hour plus 6 traditional-method sparkling wine hours resting time

YOU WILL NEED

8 fresh eggs 250g podded and shelled broad beans 200g fresh peas, podded a handful of parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped mint 75g grated Pecorino grated zest of ½ lemon salt and pepper flour to coat 3 eggs, lightly beaten with 100ml milk Panko breadcrumbs vegetable oil to fry

1. Boil the eggs for 7 minutes exactly, then

chill them immediately in iced water. When they are cool enough to handle, peel them carefully and set them aside.

2. Meanwhile, blanch the beans and peas in salted water for 2 minutes. Drain them and refresh them in cold water to stop them cooking. Drain them very well once they cool down completely. 3. Place the beans and peas in a food processor and pulse with the parsley, mint, Pecorino, lemon zest and seasoning. Do not overwork the mix as it should be just a bit coarse. If the mixture is too dry, add a drizzle or two of extra-virgin olive oil. You should have a thick paste that will hold itself together. 4. Using damp hands, coat the eggs with the mixture making sure that all the egg is completely covered. When all the eggs are coated, place them in the fridge for about 4 hours to set. 5. To cook the coated eggs, first carefully roll

them in flour then run them through the beaten eggs and finally coat them with the panko breadcrumbs. Leave the eggs to rest in the fridge for another 2 hours before deep frying in abundant oil for about 5-6 minutes till golden brown and crunchy. Serve at once.

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T&F IN SEASON

Seared calamari with stir fried broad bean, celery and leek salad Local fresh calamari are so deliciously tender that a 2-minute sear on a super hot grill is all that is needed to bring out their sweet, divine flavour. Matched with this super quick cooked salad, they make a great lunchtime treat. FOR THE SALAD

2-4 local leeks (depending on their size), washed and cleaned well extra-virgin olive oil 4 sticks celery 300g broad beans, both skins removed, and blanched chopped fresh parsley a few basil leaves, torn a little chopped fresh chilli salt and pepper FOR THE CALAMARI

800g to 1kg fresh calamari, cleaned 1 lemon some freshly chopped parsley 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper

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Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 30 minutes

Recommended wine: Albariño

1. Using a very sharp knife score lines

along the flesh of the calamari and place them in a large glass bowl. Add the tentacles as well. Squeeze the lemon over the calamari and add the chopped parsley. Stir in the garlic and extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cover the bowl with cling film and set it aside for 15 minutes for the calamari to marinade.

2. Put some olive oil in a pan and warm it up. Meanwhile, slice the leeks and celery diagonally and then stir fry them on high heat for 2-3 minutes. Add the blanched beans, stir and heat through quickly.

3. Season with chopped parsley, basil, a little chilli and salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside. 4. Heat a flat-top grill to full (or use a large non-stick frying pan). When it is hot, simply add the calamari, scored side down, and cook them for 1 minute. Next, turn them over and cook the other side for another minute. Cook the tentacles for the same amount of time.Remove the calamari from the grill and serve them topped with the prepared salad.

T&F IN SEASON

Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 20 minutes

Recommended wine: Beaujolais-Villages

A delightful starter with distinct flavours. The sweetness of the molasses contrasts so well with the sour notes imparted by sumac. Fresh broad beans bring the whole dish together. YOU WILL NEED

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 500g cleaned fresh chicken livers salt and pepper 1 teaspoon butter 4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 1 teaspoon sumac 200g broad beans, both skins removed a little roughly chopped parsley TO SERVE

Greek yoghurt sliced radishes, to garnish flat bread

1. Heat the olive oil in a large

frying pan. When hot, add the chicken livers and fry them for 6-8 minutes depending on how pink you like them. Be careful as they tend to spit while cooking. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Add the butter and allow it to melt before adding the molasses and sumac. Let the pan bubble gently for a few moments. 3. Add the raw beans, stir them in and heat the mixture through. Add the chopped parsley and serve the dish at once garnished with sliced radishes, a few dollops of Greek yoghurt and fried flat breads.

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Chicken livers with pomegranate molasses, sumac and broad beans

IN SEASON T&F

ISSUE 145 APRIL 2022

T&F IN SEASON

Broad bean and strawberry spring salad

YOU WILL NEED

Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 20 minutes

Recommended wine: Provençal rosé

Besides being colourful, the different textures and tastes in this salad provide a complete light lunch experience. Some fresh Maltese bread is all that is needed.

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1 packet (125g) salad spinach leaves, either baby leaves or regular size 400g broad beans, both skins removed 1 orange, thinly sliced 50g dried cranberries 1 punnet Maltese strawberries, washed and sliced 80g toasted pistachio nuts, chopped FOR THE DRESSING

1 fresh chilli, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 20ml apple cider vinegar 75ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon sugar salt and pepper

1. Prepare the dressing by placing all

the ingredients into a jar. Screw the top on tightly and shake it well.

2. I personally don’t really enjoy raw broad beans so I blanched them for a few seconds and refreshed them in cold water. If you like them raw I’m quite sure they would work very well too. 3. Simply build your salad by layering all the ingredients in a large salad bowl. Add a very little dressing, leaving the rest in a serving bowl for everyone to help themselves.

T&F LIGHT MEALS

EASTER 42

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

BRUNCH If a big, traditional Easter lunch is not for you, try serving a light brunch instead. Photography: Corinne Vella

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Citrus Salad

Sweet and tart citrus fruit marry well with crunchy sugar snap peas, greens and herbs. Prepare the fruit and peas ahead and store them in the fridge until needed.

1. Put the oil in a small mixing bowl.

Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 50 minutes FOR THE SALAD

1 large butter lettuce 150g sugar snap peas 1 small bunch mint 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley 3 fronds of fresh dill 1 pink grapefruit 1 plain orange 1 blood orange 1 tablespoon snipped chives (optional) FOR THE DRESSING

extra-virgin olive oil 1 lemon 2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar sea salt black pepper, crushed

Zest the lemon and add the peel to the jar along with the juice of half the lemon. Add the white vinegar. Season with salt and crushed pepper and whisk all the ingredients together. Pour the dressing into a jar and let it stand for a couple of hours to infuse.

2. Peel the citrus fruits and separate

then into segments and use a sharp knife to remove the membrane and any seeds. Separate the lettuce leaves, wash them, and shake off the excess water before patting them dry with a clean cloth or kitchen paper. Wash the herbs. Roughly chop the mint and parsley leaves, and pull the dill fronds apart.

3. Bring a pot of water to the boil and tip in the sugar snap peas. Let them blanch until they turn bright green (1-2 minutes), then drain them immediately and plunge them into iced water to stop them cooking. Drain them again. 4. Arrange the lettuce leaves on a serving platter, scatter over the sugar snap peas, fruit, and herbs. Sprinkle the chopped chives on top, if you are using them. Serve immediately, accompanied by the dressing.

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Quail’s eggs and chicory with spiced salt Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 20 minutes

Chicory dipped into spiced salt tastes surprisingly good. Serve this with hard-boiled quails eggs.

Serves 4 Preparation: 20 minutes YOU WILL NEED

20 quail’s eggs 4 heads of chicory 3 tablespoons rough sea salt 1 tablespoon pink peppercorns ½ tablespoon dried coriander seeds extra-virgin olive oil

1. Put the salt into a serving bowl. Dry

roast the peppercorns and coriander seeds in a frying pan for 2-3 minutes, then set them aside to cool. Use a pestle and mortar to roughly crush them, then stir them into the sea salt.

2. Put the quail’s eggs into a pot and pour in enough water to cover them. Bring the pan to the boil and let it bubble for 4 minutes. Remove the eggs from the water and put them aside to cool before peeling them. 3. Snap the leaves off the heads of chicory. To serve, lay out the chicory leaves on a board with a small bowl of olive oil, the eggs, and the spiced salt.

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LIGHT MEALS T&F

Pickled onions YOU WILL NEED

4 medium-sized red onions 1 cup of white vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar sea salt

1. Thinly slice the onions and put them

Marinated Feta YOU WILL NEED

120g aged feta cheese 120g regular feta cheese zest of 1 lemon 1 small bunch of dill chilli flakes olive oil

in a deep bowl. Stir the sugar and some salt into a pot of water until they dissolve. Next, stir in the vinegar.

2. Pour the liquid over the onions. Use a small plate with a weight on top to keep the onions submerged, and set the bowl aside. After roughly 30 minutes, check the onions. If they’re bright pink and softer, they’re done.

1. Cut the feta cheese into cubes and put

them in a bowl. Drizzle with olive oil.

2. Wash the dill and shake out the excess water, then chop if finely and add it to the bowl. 3. Add the lemon zest and a sprinkling of chilli flakes, then toss the mixture well. Serve accompanied by white bread or pita bread

ISSUE 145 APRIL 2022

T&F LIGHT MEALS

Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 40 minutes

The beauty of this salad is the mixture of textures: soft fresh buffalo mozzarella and crispy beets tossed with juicy cucumber, and peppery rocket and radishes. YOU WILL NEED

4 medium-sized beetroots 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 cucumber 1 English (seedless) cucumber, chopped 7 medium-sized radishes baby rocket leaves 2 balls fresh mozzarella

1. Heat the oven to 200°C. 2. Trim and peel the beetroots and slice them into rounds about 4mm thick. Brush them with olive oil and roast them in the pre-heated oven until they crisp up. Set them aside to cool. 3. Wash and trim the cucumber

and chop it into rough chunks. Trim the radishes and slice them thinly. Use your hands to tear the mozzarella into large pieces. 4. In a large bowl, mix together the cucumber, radishes and beets, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and toss until the vegetables are well coated. Spread out the rocket leaves on a platter, then drop in the oiled vegetable mix and lumps of mozzarella. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

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Roast beets and mozzarella salad

LIGHT MEALS T&F

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T&F LIGHT MEALS

Serves: 3 persons

Preparation & cooking: 50 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

250g puff pastry (readymade is fine) 175g soft ricotta 2 spring onions 1 lemon 1 egg 120g asparagus stems, trimmed and sliced in half lengthways 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 loose handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves, roughly chopped salt & pepper flour

1. Unfold the pastry and

place it on a sheet of non-stick baking paper lightly sprinkled with flour. Cover it with another sheet of non-stick paper and roll it out into a square roughly 4mm thick. Use a sharp knife to score the pastry ½” away from the edge on all four sides.

3. Put the ricotta into a mixing bowl. Trim the spring onions, slice them thinly and add them to the bowl, then grate in the lemon zest and add the chopped parsley and tarragon. 3. Beat the egg lightly and brush some on the borders of the pastry. Pour the remaining egg into the mixing bowl and stir it in. Now, scoop the mixture onto the pastry and spread it out evenly inside the scored border and lay the asparagus stems on top. 4. Heat the oven to 200°C. Drizzle the asparagus with olive oil and bake the tart until the pastry border puffs up and turns golden brown. Serve immediately with a green salad. 50

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Roasted Asparagus and Ricotta Tart Most of what you need for this is probably already in your kitchen cupboards, and it’s quick and easy to make.

LIGHT MEALS T&F

Serves: 4 persons

Preparation & cooking: 60 minutes

YOU WILL NEED

20 small potatoes 8 rashers of streaky bacon fresh rosemary tips extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper

1. Scrub the potatoes clean

and use a very sharp knife to slice them across, leaving the base of the skin intact.

2. Heat the oven to 180°C. Pour some oil into a bowl, add the potatoes and toss them until they are well-coated. Place the potatoes, cut side up, on a baking tray that is lightly brushed with oil. Scatter with fresh rosemary, season with salt and pepper, and roast the potatoes till they’re done (about 40 minutes)

Hasselback potatoes Small potatoes served with oven-crisped bacon

3. Trim the rind off the bacon rashers, spread them out on a baking tray and place it in the oven. Let the bacon cook till it’s crispy, then use a spatula to transfer it to a plate lined with kitchen paper. 4. Using your hands, break up the bacon rashers into small piece and scatter them over the potatoes. Add some more fresh rosemary, before serving. ISSUE 145 APRIL 2022

T&F ART

The Last Supper, attributed to Giovanni Antonio Boltraffio and Giampietrino, c.1515-1520.

Left: Unswept floor, Museo Profano Gregoriano, Vatican city Right: Thermopolium of Lucius Vetutius Placidus, Pompeii, depicting Bacchus (far right)

A VISUAL FEAST

“But first, let me paint a fresco.” Would anyone in earlier times have said that before indulging in a banquet or a homely meal? Maybe not, but the human fascination with food and the desire to document and depict it in imagery began millennia before Instagram. Article by Megan Mallia

t its most basic level, food is essential for living. But it is also a way of life. It connects people and communities, creating a sense of context and belonging, and also differentiates them. For biological reasons, we cannot do without food, but nor can culture. Food is a form of language; it creates a common system of understanding. And art, of course, is no stranger to symbolism. Da Vinci’s famous Last Supper, that graces Santa Maria delle Grazie monastery in Milan, for instance, has been subject to endless debate about the significance of the food in the artwork. Often mistakenly assumed to be a fresco, it actually departs from this traditional technique. Rather than applying pigment to wet plaster for the two to set together, da Vinci painted his Last Supper “a secco”, applying tempera and oil to a double layer of dry plaster, pitch and mastic. The result was a timeless image that was quickly ravaged by time, for, not long after its completion around the end of the fifteenth century, da Vinci’s visionary painting began to flake and fade. Several centuries later, it remains a source of fascination. In copies of the original painting – the clearest and better

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known being the one attributed to two of da Vinci’s pupils, Giampietrino and Giovanni Antonio Boltraffio – the details are easier to discern, such as the overturned salt cellar that lies beside Judas’ arm. It is said to symbolise Judas’ betrayal of Jesus because, in sixteenth century Europe, spilled salt was seen to be a bad omen. The slices of fish or eel depicted on plates with segments of orange, recall that Jesus lived around Lake Tiberias near the fishermen from among whom he chose his disciples. But is it fish or eel? The Italian word for eel, aringa, is phonetically similar to the term arringa, Italian for a solemn speech or pleading a cause. However, it’s tempting to conclude that the food is a particular type of fish – herring, in northern Italian dialect is renga, meaning he who denies religion, which fits with Jesus’ prediction that Peter would deny him. The academic debate over the subject and its symbolism continues. In classical times, the realistic representation of food in art was a way for artists to flaunt their flair, a legacy that would live on in the still life genre of painting throughout Western art history. Food took on religious importance in the frescoes of ancient Rome. Offerings to the gods tended to take the form of good meat and abundant fruit, and some crops

ART T&F

Cristofano Gherardi (1508-1556) Festoon decoration (detail) c. 1550s, Palazzo Vitello a Sant' Egidio, Città di Castello, Italy.

were associated with specific deities. Bacchus, god of wine and revelry, was rarely depicted without grapes, just as Ceres, goddess of agriculture, was never far from a sheaf of wheat. It was in wall frescoes that food featured in devotional contexts, yet nothing went to waste as there was always room for more. On floors, leftovers from banquets were made permanent in mosaics. They may have been depictions of food scraps, but they were luxurious food scraps and therefore served as a symbol of prestige. While the symbolism of food in art is fascinating, that it can also offer us glimpses into the tastes and eating habits of a time tucked away in history is no less intriguing. In Pompeii, for example, a brilliant ochre-coloured food counter snakes through an empty tavern, its frescoes well preserved despite Vesuvius’s deadly eruption in 79 AD. Discovered only a couple of years back, this thermopolium – a place where hot food could be purchased – hints at what might have been on offer: chickens, ducks and various plants, possibly herbs, feature in the frescoes on the counter. Frescoes can help unlock the mystery of historical varieties of fruit and vegetables. Archaeobotanist Isabella Dalla Ragione, who has been described as “the Indiana Jones

Giorgio Vasari, The first fruits from earth offered to Saturn (1555-1557), Palazzo Vecchio, Florence, Italy.

of missing fruits”, has made it her mission to rediscover the hundreds of plant varieties from Renaissance Italy depicted in art. It was while studying the archives of the sixteenth century Castello Bufalini in San Giustino, which houses a collection of ancient kitchen invoices and recipes brimming with references to historic plants, that the revelation hit her – the finest clues are hidden right beneath our noses or, rather, above our heads. While poring over documents in the archive, she would sometimes give her eyes a rest by looking up at the ceiling, and that is when she began to wonder if the frescoes she saw there held clues about ancient varieties. The frescoes that captured Dalla Ragione’s imagination were the work of Cristofano Gherardi, a student of Giorgio Vasari, the master artist who encouraged his protégés to use real fruit as subjects for their art. In one of Vasari’s own famous frescoes, found in the Palazzo Vecchio Museum in Florence, Saturn is depicted as being offered the first fruits of the earth. Gherardi’s frescoes ‘spoke’ to Dalla Ragione – if he had painted fruit and vegetables from life, they must have grown nearby in farms or orchards. Art, in itself, is a visual feast, but when food is involved, it is so much more. That, at least, is food for thought. n

It is said to symbolise Judas’ betrayal of Jesus because, in sixteenth century Europe, spilled salt was seen to be a bad omen.

Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), The Last Supper (1495-1498), Santa Maria delle Grazie, Milan, Italy.

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T&F INTERIORS

ISSUE 145 APRIL 2022

INTERIORS T&F

DOMESTIC

HARMONY Opposites attract, but blending together opposing tastes in style is a challenge. When one half of a couple likes the Scandinavian look, all softness and light oak flooring, and the other half favours dark colours and sharp lines, it’s time to call in an expert. Interior design: Martina Fenech-Adami, KCo Design Photography: Ramon Portelli

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T&F INTERIORS

hen Martina Fenech-Adami of KCo Design took on the task of finishing off a contemporary interior for a couple’s home, she had to find a way to marry two diametrically opposed tastes in style. “We tried to strike a balance,” she says. “We introduced the soft palettes in the wave of the curtain, the upholstered pieces I worked on with her, the chairs outside, the sofa. His aesthetic sense shaped the structural base of the interior design – the components that divide the space, the reflective black glass wall. Her softer, feminine aesthetic is in the pieces we designed and had custom-made. It was a process of give and take. As I worked on the project, we created the interior from ideas they both like.” The original property was an empty shell, with the standard layout that is typical of most new-builds and which usually determines the layout of the internal spaces. As Martina puts it, “You end up with a kitchen which is large piece you stick against a wall, the TV goes on the opposite side wall, and the sofa is just a chunky piece that ends up floating somewhere in between.” In her design approach, Martina wanted to get away from that reductive process, and to define the layout differently to what is usually dictated by the existing walls and floor space. The design concept grew from what initially attracted the owners to the apartment - the view and the flood of natural light from the large open balcony: “We wanted to enhance and exploit this, and use the view as a source concept. With every project I pick on a source to get me going. The concept base here was the light and view. How to bring the external indoors.”

The wall is alive. Wherever you move, the light and reflections change.

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T&F INTERIORS

p The floating cabinet, the feature wall in the dining area and marble inset in the Lazy Susan are all in Pulips Italstone Ceramic by Italgraniti Group from Rabat Marbles. The ceiling light is from Elektra.

hat concept and the need to configure the layout led to the creation of a bespoke element – a black glass wall that both splits and unites the space, dividing it into distinct areas while commanding attention all round as the central feature in the public part of the apartment. At once visible and yet invisible, it runs perpendicular to the balcony, separating the lounge from the kitchen and dining space, and into the area just inside the main entrance, framing a transition point for anyone who walks into the apartment. “We inserted the glass wall in the middle so that it reflects the views, Martina says. “Anywhere you walk in the room you catch a glimpse of the view outside. It reflects all the light that comes through the opening and bounces it into the room. The wall is alive. Wherever you move, the light and reflections change according to the time of day or year, and according to the weather. Aesthetically and functionally, it just made the space.” The substructure includes a block of marble that cuts across the glass wall. It looks like a large floating marble block, as it’s cantilevered. Aesthetically, it appears to be a sculptural piece in the centre of the room, a feature that sets the particular project apart. The marble structure was designed to further enhance the impression that it is a solid block. The sheets of marble have mitred edges and the veins are matched to appear continuous, so that the whole element looks like a block rather than a cabinet with doors.

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INTERIORS T&F

“With every project I pick on a source to get me going. The concept base here was the light and view. How to bring the external indoors.”

p Most of the indoor and outdoor furniture is custom-made to specifications by KCo Design. The Daikin air-conditioning throughout the apartment is from M.A.A. Services Ltd.

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T&F INTERIORS

hen the position of the wall was established, the new location for the sofa became apparent. There was a nook against the facing wall for which Martina designed a customised sofa. The TV is set against the glass wall where the material serves another purpose. When the TV is switched off its glass screen visually blends into the background so “once you don’t have light and sound beaming from it, you can ignore it,” Martina says. The extension of the glass wall all the way to the entrance area, creates the sort of entry space you find in larger houses. It shields the sense of personal space of anyone inside from someone walking in through the main door. “The reflective surface of the wall has another use – it functions as a mirror as you enter and exit,” Martina adds. The kitchen design is the result of long discussions. The home owners wanted a large one and this one is unusually large, designed to maximise the space. The 3-metre marble island is backed by floor-to-ceiling storage units. The rounded off corner hides a “secret” pantry behind the black cladding. The light fittings here are architectural as they are throughout the apartment. The minimalist space speaks for itself, so architectural light fittings suit the aesthetic.

t Dark panels and sharp lines define the space, while light tones and gentle curves soften the overall look. The oakwood veneer flooring is by Brands International Ltd.

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T&F INTERIORS

he scheme of the interior was initially inspired by some materials seen in a previous project of Martina’s. “The clients wanted a luxury, high-end feel – marble, stone, glass, wood,” she says. “I introduced their ideas into the basic design concept. The first palette was different. After some discussion, we settled on the one you see here. I like one strong palette and using it throughout the space.” The bathroom, for instance, is clad in travertine which glows with a hint of salmon pink, an effect further enhanced by having the vanity units spray-painted to specifically to match the tone of the tiles. The black vanity unit is stained oak, the same wood used for the concealed doors and many other places in the apartment. The palette and balance of opposites continues into the personal spaces and all of the apartment has the same holistic feel, with natural oakwood floors that merge throughout. Martina points to the bedroom as an example, where the light fittings have hard lines but the fabrics and bedding create softness

“Customisation gives you a really good hold on the palette and design.”

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T&F INTERIORS

ll the furniture was custom-made except for the dining chairs. “I’m a product designer originally,” Martina says. “If you have the fabrics already, it’s actually cost-effective to create the pieces yourself. For instance, I wanted the sofa to fit exactly into that nook behind the glass wall. There’s a whole science behind making the sofa. We tested out the various types and thicknesses of foam and cushions.” “Customisation gives you a really good hold on the palette and design. We could be more on point matching furniture and colours with the travertine and the wood, to be more specific about the overall theme. I like to go a lot into that sort of detail, all the different tonalities and weaves of fabrics. Some have a tighter mesh or softer fabric finish. This gives us a nice soft base with feminine tones. The custom pieces allowed me to bring that through.” She points out the outdoor furniture as an example of customization. The balcony is long and narrow and standard sized chairs would have looked bulky and constrained, so both the chairs and the outdoor table were designed to fit. The outdoor table is slimmer than a normal table but it is large enough for entertaining. It’s made from Iroko wood with powder-coated metal legs. With customisation we can be specific about what we’re using and why, and we can be meticulous with finishes. It makes it possible to think about what materials are efficient for our weather, for example,” Martina says.

u The kitchen area has a clean, uncluttered look, thanks to storage units that run the full length of the space. The 3-metre long island is in Pulips Italstone Ceramic by Italgraniti Group from Rabat Marbles. The architectural light fittings are from OK Home.

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INTERIORS T&F

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T&F INTERIORS

he wall behind the indoor dining table is clad in marble and mirrored glass, reflecting glimpses of the outdoors and creating the illusion that the curtain continues beyond the space – a play on materials, reflections and light. The dining chairs were bought ready-made, but the table was designed and made specifically for the space. The home owner wanted a round table that is large enough for 10 people, with a lazy Susan at the centre. It would have been difficult to find a ready-made product that fits the bill and having the table custom-made meant that additional details could be included. “We added a touch of marble to the lazy Susan and finished the table in lacquer to match. The floating cabinet is also finished in lacquer to match the dining table. The colour-blocking effect throughout the apartment creates a smooth feeling,” Martina says. The subtle continuity of the colour palette is picked up in the paintings that hang in the lounge area. The choice is no accident. “In the renders I show to clients, I usually include artworks from a gallery,” Martina says. Taking that as her cue, the home owner noted the dimensions of the artworks in the renders and the details of the planned colour palette and asked an artist to create paintings specifically for the space. Too much of an eye for detail? Not at all. The effect is both stunning and soothing. n

t The bathroom vanity units are spray-painted in the same tone as the travertine cladding. The tiles and fittings (left and top right) are from Satariano.

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A ROOM WITH 68

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A VIEW

Being given a free hand is a designer’s dream come true. Interior design and styling: Henry “Henners” Catania Photography: Brian Grech

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“Round mirrors, set inside custommade, wall-mounted moulding on either side, reflect the moon lamp to infinity.” “The previous owner asked me to finish off the show flat and to do it any way I liked. I had pretty much a blank canvas,” Henry “Henners” Catania says. He’s speaking of a cavernous space, one of several flats created when a seafront hotel was converted into a residential building. The developer-owner wanted to show prospective buyers what their new home could look like, and commissioned Henry to fill that blank canvas artistically. Before any works began, he spent several months visiting the site to get a feel for the space and think about how to transform it. Twin lifts rise directly into the high-level flat which open out into a large, open area. To the right, short corridors veer off at either end, leading to individual rooms. The open area is fronted by a deep terrace and large, glass doors that run the full width of the building, flooding the interior with natural light and a wonderful view of the bay beneath and the open horizon beyond it. For inspiration, he first looked at a couple of the other flats in the block that had already been finished. The living room and TV were positioned right next to the terrace. “That meant you’d be sitting next to a spectacular sea view, but ignoring to look at the TV,” Henry says. Back in the show flat, he reversed that layout, moving the TV area inwards and placing the dining and lounge space next to the terrace.

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A Valley Road, Msida T +(356) 2144 6000

T&F INTERIORS

p The pink ceiling is a surprise element that contrasts with the grey walls. All paints throughout are by Zuber from Camilleriparismode.

“Intuitively, this makes more sense,” he says. “Dining is the most enjoyable part of home life, when everyone gets together around a table. You get to look at the view most of the time, and when the weather’s fine, the terrace becomes part of a large indoor-outdoor area, rather than a separate space.” Half-way through planning the interior and starting on the works, the project still had a future as a show-flat. But one day, the owner said that two people were coming to see the flat because they were interested in buying it. Henry had already decided on everything about the interior, but all that was ready at that point was the walls which were painted in graduated shades of grey – dark near the terrace door, medium grey in the middle and light grey on the inner side.

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“I’d chosen the wall colours before even selecting the interior,” Henry said. “Not even the flooring was in. The wall colours I’d chosen were ‘safe’ because I didn’t know who would eventually move in, but I wanted to do something different with the ceiling, so I had it painted blush pink. When the new owners were first on the scene, that was the first thing they fell in love with.” The prospective owners had moved to Malta and had been renting for a while. When they saw the flat, they quickly made up their mind that this was to be their permanent home. That could have disrupted Henry’s plans, but it turned out to be a smooth transition. “At first, I didn’t know whether I would continue the work, but they asked me to do so,” he says.

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“Dining is the most enjoyable part of home life, when everyone gets together around a table.”

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“I wanted to do something different with the ceiling, so I had it painted blush pink.” “I didn’t show them any plans, details or colours. All I did was give them an overview. I had already chosen the kitchen and bathrooms and had even bought the fabrics. I’d ordered them before I’d known who would live here. I told the buyers that this would be quite different from other places they had seen till then. But they trusted me completely and I finished it off as I had originally planned it, except for a few things. This is a 4-bedroomed flat but we decided to turn one of the bedrooms into a gym with its own bathroom, and they chose most of the lights and the outdoor furniture themselves.” The one light-fitting Henry chose was the “moon” lamp which hangs over the dining table. Round mirrors, set inside custom-made, wall-mounted moulding on either side, reflect the moon lamp to infinity. When lit at night, the arrangement has a pleasing fantasy effect, evoking memories of ‘space age’ children’s literature. The open plan area has been zoned into a kitchen, living, dining and lounge area which flows beautifully. On entering the flat, you find yourself in a entry “hall”, set off from the main area by an open-shelving unit customised from standard component parts, which creates a visual partition between the “hall” and the kitchen area beyond.

u Neutral tones create a sense of calm in the master bedroom. The fittings in the ensuite bathroom are by Satariano.

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Turning left, you face a panoramic sea view, fronted by smooth parquet flooring and clean-line furniture. To the right, an unusual kitchen island fronts a discreet kitchen space. “When planning the kitchen I first thought about how much space I’d need for a nice dining area,” Henry says. “I knew how wide it would be. The question was how deep.” The kitchen is minimalistic, its door panels painted to match the walls, which has the effect of fading into the background, an effect broken only by the rough texture of the cupboard doors. “Since the kitchen is rigidly rectilinear, with flat surfaces and sharp angled edges, I decided to created a different sort of kitchen island. Something that flows, not something that blocks you visually and physically,” Henry says. The kitchen island feels like it’s there without creating any physical barrier or visual interruption. Its striking form stands out like a sculpture against the plain, muted grey kitchen in the background. The entire structure was custom-made to Henry’s original design. The large pot that appears to grow out of the marble column can be removed and replaced with a brass-bound marble inset, enlarging the island’s surface area. The detailing throughout is impeccable, right down to the ridged texture of the copper kitchen taps which Henry chose to complement the copper-coloured vein of the marble backsplash. The mirrors and coving were custom-made by a craftsman whom Henry discovered through a tradesman brought in to lay the terrace decking. Each of the bathrooms has a luxurious feel created by the custom-made marble vanity units, and particularities such as the fabric blinds in the guest bathroom.

A study nook and hidden storage are tucked away between the public and private areas of the apartment. Paints, fabrics, furniture, and door handles here and throughout the apartment were sourced from Camillierparismode.

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The interior architecture of the flat was left untouched, save for the ensuite bathroom in the main bedroom, which is tucked away from the open plan area, down a short corridor. Henry shifted the bath’s position to the right side of the room and moved the bathroom door leftwards towards the bedroom door. This makes the bathroom feel larger. Unusually, the bathroom window looks out onto the street side of the building, framing the view of the church across the bay. Just outside the main bedroom, Henry had a small study area installed where a desk in a contemporary design sits under a window shielded from bright sunshine by light curtains. Part of the area has been hived off behind a gypsum panel to create extra storage space. “This is a big flat but the storage spaces were small so I “stole” extra storage space wherever possible,” Henry says. Part of the main bedroom is partitioned off, creating a walk-in wardrobe area. The room is finished in a calm pale grey with accents of red – the pendant bedside lamps, a large planter, and luxurious drapes in an ikat-style weave that “puddle” on the floor. In another of the bedrooms, the pale grey of the walls is a foil for the blush pink bedcover, cushions and chair and the custom-made window blind in fabric printed with a tree motif. In the third bedroom, a leather headboard dominates over the cool grey tones. The wooden doors and cupboards throughout the flat were custom-made. “There’s only one more unit that needs to be installed,” Henry says. And before that brings this project to a close, he’s already at work on another one for the same owners. Clearly, he must be doing something right.

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T&F TRENDS

Isis has a brilliant, straw-yellow colour with a pale green rim; a fresh, complex bouquet of grapefruit and other exotic white fruits with gentle floral notes; and a well-structured, citrus taste with a long, pleasantly acidic aftertaste. This wine pairs well with grilled fish and seafood and white meats such as chicken and rabbit. For information about Meridiana Wine Estate’s full range of wines www.meridiana.com.mt or find us on Facebook. Trade Enquiries: S. Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

t The New Forma Vanity by Porcelanosa. A unique design with plenty of storage space, drawers in the centre and on the sides, and additional shelves can be found in the revolving mirror for your everyday products. The Forma tap has also been updated with additional new finishes to match the colour of the vanity. Exclusively available from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. T. 2149 2149

p Attic is a modern modular collection consisting of two lampshades in various sizes, one conical and the other cylindrical, in black, white, and matt gold. It comes with a hanging system that may be used alone or in combination with other pieces. Attic creates pleasant environments by varying the arrangement of its wires and casings, offering an endless number of compositional and aesthetic options. Find Attic exclusively at Elektra Ltd., Triq il-Mithna, Zone 5, Central Business District, Qormi. www.elektra.com.mt

t These small tables can make a big impact! Long, narrow, and infinitely versatile, console tables are essential for small spaces since they can be placed anywhere from tiny entryways to more spacious living areas. Large selection of console tables available from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. T. 2149 2149

The next issue will be out in May with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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p Walk-in, open, fitted or on its own. San Giacomo have wardrobes to fit any style and space and most undoubtedly to suit your clothes. Exclusively available from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. T. 2149 2149

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt

Cooking at home Looking after your health by preparing home-cooked meals Convenience food, also called processed food, is food that is commercially prepared to improve its convenience. This type of food can have an adverse effect on one’s health, as it tends to be processed (and therefore have less nutrients) and larger in portion than the recommended guidelines*. One way to improve your health is to prepare homecooked meals. A common issue with cooking at home relates mainly around time and energy to prepare meals or that this is a task only suitable for experienced cooks. Overcoming obstacles to cooking at home often starts with changing the way one prepares meals or time spent in the kitchen. One simple way to do this is by using items you have already in the fridge or freezer which is also one important way to reduce food waste and ultimately save money. Cooking at home and being able to make substitutions for healthier meals ensures more control over the nutrients consumed and is crucial for people who are on special diets to control medical conditions. Healthy cooking at home

should include simple meals that do not involve much time for preparation. It is recommended that such meals include ingredients that conform with national dietary guidelines*. Indeed, studies have shown that home cooking can take less time that eating out and improves the likelihood of choosing healthier choices **. Furthermore, the simple process of cooking at home can be empowering and improve one’s mood and selfesteem, as it can act a stress reliever from a busy schedule. So, whether your goal is to get healthy or improve your culinary skills, cooking at home will be an important way to achieve it! *Dietary guidelines for Maltese adults: Healthy Eating - the Mediterranean Way (2015): https://deputyprimeminister.gov.mt/en/health-promotion/documents/library/publications/ healthy%20plate%20en.pdf : Accessed 28/2/2022 **Wolfson JA, Bleich SN. Is cooking at home associated with better diet quality or weightloss intention? Public Health Nutr. 2015 Jun;18(8):1397-406.

Superintendence of Public Health

Take your taste buds on a journey through South America, whilst overlooking the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. St Georges Bay, St Julians, STJ 3301, Malta M: +356 7728 3342 • experience@susurrus.com.mt