TASTE&FLAIR AUGUST2019 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE ISSUE 121 121 DISTRIBUTED DISTRIBUTED WITH WITH THETHE MALTA MALTA INDEPENDENT INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY ON SUNDAY

AUGUST AUGUST 20192019

AUGUST 2019 ISSUE 121

Feed Feedyour yourimagination imagination

Mediterranean Mediterraneancuisine cuisine· Colourful · Colourfuldrinks drinks· Dreamy · Dreamydesserts desserts· Award-winning · Award-winningdesign design

Wall Tiles:120cm x 240cm - Floor Tiles:120cm x 120cm

122, Valley Road, B'Kara satariano.com

The Maltese Tomato: Queen of Crops

Tomatoes play a very important role in the Mediterranean diet but very little is known about their origin in the Maltese Islands. The tomato plant was first cultivated by the Aztecs in Mexico and is thought to have been brought over to Europe by the Spanish explorer Cortes, where it was then distributed throughout the Spanish empire. Although the importation into Malta is still speculative to this day, there is a possibility that tomatoes were

It was at this opportune time that Gianni Magro, founder of Magro Brothers (Foods) Ltd began offering incentives to farmers to grow the tomatoes on a commercial scale, instead of just as a means of bartering at the Valletta Ta’ Liesse market. It was a decision that in the long run would enhance business in Gozo and prove beneficial to the whole island. Mr Magro agreed to buy all the tomatoes produced in Gozo against cash which was a totally new concept for the farming industry. This incentive not only increased the work force in Gozo but also ensured that the growing of tomatoes was a main contributor to the Gozitan agricultural economy. In those days, transportation of tomatoes was in “mezez”, large wicker baskets carried by two persons which weighed around 30kg each. During World Agricultural produce being transported in “kaxxi tal-balal” War II, farmers recycled the boxes used for bomb transportation, introduced as early as the known as “kaxxi tal-balal”, as they were 1600’s during the reign of the Knights of easier to handle and were cheaper than the St John, however by the mid 1800’s wicker baskets. As the war ended and the tomatoes were being regularly imported boxes were no longer used, Magro Brothers into the Maltese Islands and were invested in wooden crates, which although frequently used in the Maltese kitchen. were convenient to carry, they were heavy Up to the early 1900’s tomatoes were only and still had to be carried by two people. As grown in gardens, and this especially in time progressed, in the early ‘80’s, the Gozo which was always more rural! It was wooden boxes were replaced with plastic only in the 1930’s, when the British colony containers that carried around 18kg per box. in Malta was setting up a solid base for Over time, the amount of farmers working mass production of agricultural produce, their fields diminished significantly, however and wanted to establish the British the ones that invested in tomato-growing Empire as one of the strongest in the increased their yields immensely. Hence, world, that tomatoes started to be Magro Brothers began transporting farmed commercially, even in Malta, in tomatoes for processing in large bins with a open fields. capacity of over 250kg.

“Mezez” filled with

tomatoes

This year, over a hundred years down the line, and still faithful to Gianni Magro’s determination and clear business strategies, Magro Brothers constantly aim to develop new methodologies with a formidable determination to move forward notwithstanding all odds! Facing another drastic reduction of farmers and investing heavily in the tomato industry, Magro Brothers are now experimenting with new container bins that will carry over 5000kgs of tomatoes each. This new concept transportation aims to facilitate further the hard work done by farmers and helps reduce their costs so that the return on their crop is maximised. Since 1916, the Magro family have worked hand in hand with local farmers to ensure that the Maltese Tomato will forever have its own distinct taste and flavour in the wide range of tomato products they produce. Bins with a capacity of 250kg

GĦAŻEL BEJN jew MAGĦMUL MINN TADAM FRISK

KUNSERVA ĦELWA B’TADAM IMQADDED

‘Il-Kunserva’ ilha ssir minn Magro Brothers sa mill-1934. Hija magħmula minn tadam Malti frisk fix-xhur sħan tas-sajf.

‘Il-Ħelwa’ hija tip ta’ Kunserva magħmula minn tadam imqadded bix-xemx u ftit melħ u zokkor għal togħma ħelwa u bnina.

‘Il-Kunserva’ u ‘Il-Ħelwa’ jintużaw kemm fuq il-ħobż Malti frisk bil-qoxra tqarmeċ, fit-tisjir ta’ kuljum jew inkella bħala ‘dip’.

ISSUE 121 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

AUGUST 2019

Editorial F

or an island in the Mediterranean, Malta is remarkably indifferent to the pleasures of Mediterranean cuisine. Freshness, simplicity, and a reliance on agricultural produce, seafood, and copious amounts of olive oil are its essential elements. It is wideranging and versatile, but too many default to a basic repertoire of recipes that reduces food to its functional purpose – orphaned from its cultural history and context – and missing out on much of what makes food pleasurable and so closely tied to a sense of place and belonging. Almost without forethought, this August issue of Taste&Flair has evolved as a nod to Mediterranean identity, with most of our features closely linked to that sense of place we all crave and sometimes find in the food we share and the homes we create for ourselves. Though there are some characteristics of Mediterranean cuisine that are widely shared, islands have their own particularities influenced by individual social conditions, the availability of ingredients, and the cultural influences that swept across history. Taking inspiration from the region, Amy Mallia serves up colourful dishes that are mostly a taste of the Mediterranean islands. Megan Mallia’s painterly photos of chilled infusions with seasonal fruit will tempt you to slake your thirst by brewing up a jugful or two. If you feel like something stronger, add a dash of prosecco or mix yourself a Bellini. You’ll find the recipe for the classic Venetian cocktail inside. For more of a taste of Italy, try Michael Diacono’s pasta dishes, a mix of family favourites and classic dishes that are worth their time and effort. In another nod to Mediterranean islands, Claire Borg revisits Caprese salad, reinventing it in her Gozo kitchen and reversing some of its rules. For dessert, she ventured further afield. Her gorgeous summer cakes feature fruit from around the world. And because nothing is more physical about a sense of place than our built environment, in our design section we feature some of the winners of the first edition of the Malta Chamber of Architects’ Premju Emmanuele Luigi Galizia. We wrap up the design section with a feature about a home and garden that was designed around established trees, a comforting thought as yet another swathe of mature trees is felled around us. While you read this, we’re already working on the September issue. Look out for it on the first Sunday of the month. We’ll be back on 1st September with another gorgeous issue of Taste&Flair.

Feed your imagination

Mediterranean cuisine · Colourful drinks · Dreamy desserts · Award-winning design

Follow us on Facebook, Twitter & Instagram All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com PUBLISHER

The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation c/o 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta EDITORIAL BOARD

Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Corinne Vella

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Megan Mallia Amy Mallia

ART DIRECTOR

Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net ADVERTISING MANAGER & EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTOR

Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt ADVERTISING ASSISTANT

Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt PRODUCTION MANAGER

André Camilleri

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT

Conrad Bondin

PREPRESS & PRINTING

Print It

Chilled and iced infusion with seasonal herbs and fruit. See recipes starting on page 76

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Amy Mallia’s Lemon Granita. See feature starting on page 44. Photo by Amy Mallia.

T&F EDITORIAL

THE WIDEST SELECTION OF OUTDOOR FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES IN MALTA & GOZO

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T&F CONTENTS

CONTENTS FOOD & DRINK

LIFESTYLE

58 88

Sweet surrender Claire Borg’s gorgeous fruit bakes

The pleasure of pasta Michael Diacono’s new ways with an old favourite

Time for wine Andrew Azzopardi on the resurgence of rosé

Mediterranean holiday Amy Mallia’s colourful take on island cuisine

Capri inspiration Claire Borg reimagines a classic salad

Refreshers Cool down with chilled, home-made infusions

128

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Architecture awards 2019 Premju Emanuele Luigi Galizia

First edition winners President’s Award and Quality in Architecture Award Civil Engineering Award Urban Regeneration Award

116

Magical Mykonos

Classic cocktail The Bellini backstory

Living with nature How established trees shaped a home’s design

CONTENTS T&F

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F FRESH

BURRATA WITH MIXED LEAVES & TOMATO CONFIT

1. Cut out the eye of the tomatoes

and cut a small cross in the bottom of each one. Blanch them in a pan of boiling water for a minute then plunge into ice water and remove the skin. Put the peeled tomatoes onto a dish with salt, rosemary and olive oil. 2. Preheat the oven to about 100ºC and

A fresh light starter for summer.

cook the tomatoes for about 1½ hours, until they are fully done. Put to one side, together with the olive oil mixture they were cooked in.

SERVES 4

3. Carefully arrange the burrata in the

200g cherry tomatoes 100g fresh burrata 50ml extra virgin oilive oil 200g mixed leaves a sprig of rosemary salt

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

centre of a large, flat dish. Scatter the mixed leaves around the dish and put the tomatoes on top, without the olive oil mixture. Finish off by drizzling some of the olive oil mixture and sprinkling some salt over the whole dish.

CREATIVE MENU WITH A UNIQUE MEDITERRANEAN TWIST A VAST COLLECTION OF WINES AND SPIRITS, CENTRALLY LOCATED WITH HASSLE FREE PARKING

Elba is Open Everyday for Lunch and Dinner For bookings call us on 21381639/99499960 Elba Restaurant, Coast Road, Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq

T&F PROMOTION

Beefbar:

The ‘wow’ factor Malta’s culinary scene is going through an interesting period of reinvention. Now, ‘Beefbar on the Beach’ brings you something that’s truly innovative.

he brainchild of restaurateur and owner Riccardo Giraudi, Beefbar breaks the tradition of formal high-end dining. Banishing the rigidity usually associated with top class restaurants, Giraudi and Monaco-based architecture and interior design firm Humbert & Poyet deliver quality through simplicity in both design and taste. The focus is on freshness through purity with an element of daring, and on carefully crafting dishes using the best and rarest beef cuts in the world, cooked and served in a variety of ways, quite unlike the conventional American-style steakhouse. Giraudi’s inspiration was his experience of working in London with Bacchus PR, a renowned brand development and creative agency which manages some of the biggest names in the international culinary arena. “After studying at University in the UK, I delayed my return to Monaco for as long as I could, wanting to experience more of life and different brands,” Giraudi says. At the time, Giraudi stood to inherit one of the leading high-quality meat import companies in Europe: Giraudi Group, a business which his father started in the early 1970s and which initially focused on the importation of Dutch and French veal to Italy. Eventually, he did return to Monaco, but after a few years in the family business, he was ready to try something new on the other side of the food and beverage industry: a restaurant. “I started Beefbar in 2005 because I felt there was something missing in Monaco at that time,” he says. “It seemed everywhere I looked there were only Michelin star restaurants or Italian Trattorias. There was a missing link. Something that could incorporate glamour, beef and myself. I partnered up with two friends to create the Beefbar concept.” He laughs, “I can’t say we got it right at the beginning. Looking back now I realise the first menu leaned a little too much on the classic American-style steakhouse. But I was courageous and young, so I set about delivering the difference I knew we could achieve and that I knew the international audience in Monaco really wanted.”

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This is where it all changed for Riccardo. He drew inspiration from Japanese food presentation techniques - small, delicate portions where quality could be enjoyed in every morsel of the food. Choosing substance and style over heaviness and bulk, the menu was transformed. Working with executive chef Thierry Paludetto, Giraudi fashioned a menu based on the purest cuts of fine beef and simple treatment which allowed the quality of the meat to shine through.

PROMOTION T&F

As the name suggests, Beefbar offers the best quality beef from around the world, with exclusive access to certified Japanese Kobe beef, as well as grass-fed Argentinian Angus beef, corn-fed American Prime Black Angus beef and Australian WX Wagyu beef. When Riccardo introduced the Street Food Menu at Beefbar just four years ago, the Beefbar concept really struck a chord with the international restaurant scene. Riccardo explains: “We have 8 chefs from different countries like Japan, Malaysia, France, Italy, Mexico and India and they have provided us with a selection of street food dishes inspired by their own countries.” Imagine taking the best street food from around the world and reinventing it in delicate portions using the best beef in the world as the core ingredient. The names of delicious dishes roll off Giraudi’s tongue, like their divine beef sliders, ribeye tataki, gyoza, tartare and bao buns. Beef, however, isn’t the only delicacy you’ll find on the Beefbar menu. Riccardo explains that “Malta’s Beefbar on the Beach concept is something special. Looking out at a view of the Mediterranean Sea, beef is great, but it’s not enough. We have a great selection of fish dishes on the menu as well. Leafbar dishes, which is a new concept I am exploring using plant-based protein instead of meat, will also be available in Malta. There’s a lot about the menu to be excited about.” “We’ll see exactly what works and what doesn’t and we’ll adapt accordingly. We’re here to get to know Maltese people and what they like. We don’t come with the arrogance that we know everybody and everything. Knowing your market is how you create a name.” All Beefbar destinations across the globe including Paris, Hong Kong, Monaco, Dubai, Mykonos and now Malta, have been designed by award-winning design and architectural firm Humbert & Poyet. Almost all the elements for “Beefbar on the Beach” are bespoke and conceptualised just for this particular space, underlining craftsmanship and detail. The refined result reflects the quality of the restaurant and the lounge and Malta’s natural environment. The location will also offer a VIP Gazebo area, a private pool and a lounge area. “Guests are invited for lunch,

for dinner or simply to spend the afternoon and evening relaxing with us and tasting delicacies from our menu,” Riccardo explains. He may already be a famous restaurant entrepreneur and connoisseur of all things related to beef, but it’s Riccardo Giraudi’s passion and determination to find the next big idea in the culinary world that really sets him apart. Along with his never-ending quest to keep delivering a wow factor to every one of his customers across the globe. “We have a lot more openings planned after Malta: Rome, Athens, Saudi Arabia, then the USA. There’s a lot going on, my team is growing as we speak. I can’t wait. The more time I have to be creative, the better experience we can offer our customers. But for now, I invite everyone in Malta to experience something different, something special and something tasty - our Beefbar’s “wow” factor.”

Beefbar on the Beach Dawret il Gżejjer San Pawl il-Baħar Follow the ‘Beefbar on the Beach’ Facebook page for regular updates.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

REDIFINING THE NEW

BUSINESS CLASS IN-FLIGHT EXPERIENCE

www.airmalta.com

TasteandFlare_Km 1

25/07/2019 14:23 09/05/2019 20:36

PROMOTION T&F

MALTA’S GRAPE HARVEST FESTA IS HERE

Wine in and of itself calls for a celebration, especially during grape harvest season. As the first lots of grapes are rolling into the wine presses, wine enthusiasts are getting ready for Malta’s grandest grape harvest festa, the Delicata Classic Wine Festival at the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta. The festival will be held every evening from 7pm until midnight from 8 to 11 August and the wines are the real stars here. Malta’s most iconic Grand Vin de Hauteville and Gran Cavalier labels are on show along with other delicious DOK and IGT boutique wines such as Medina and Victoria Heights as well as the rare, award-winning wines Girgentina and Ġellewża Frizzante. Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilised pleasures, so the festival will offer a tempting variety of both traditional Maltese and international dishes prepared by Maypole, Gate of India, Noodle Box and Il-Kċina to tease and please a wide range of palates. Every evening there is a double-bill of top Maltese talent performing live music, including Airport Impressions on Thursday, The Crowns on Sunday and other great bands. Don’t miss the Classic Wine Festival in Valletta. If you really can’t make it, save - or savour - the dates of the Gozo edition. Delicata’s annual wine fest will cross over to Nadur from 23 to 25 August, and is being organised in close collaboration with the Nadur Local Council. With more than 20 Delicata quality wines to try, whether you join in the fun at the Malta or Gozo edition, either event is just another perfect occasion to clink glasses this summer. Entry to the Valletta festival and to the Gozo festival is free of charge. To sample the wines, there is a one-time charge of €16 for a souvenir wine glass and 24 wine coins which may be exchanged for several 150ml glasses of the wide selection of award-winning wines served from stalls in the stunning, starlit gardens. More festival details at www.delicata.com

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PROMOTION T&F

New Phoenix à la carte launched The new Phoenix à la carte menu is a breath of fresh air with a range of fresh, light, tasty dishes that embrace the beautiful produce that summer brings, and highlights the contribution made by an acre of kitchen garden exclusive to the flagship restaurant.

The Phoenix Restaurant, The Phoenicia, The Mall, Floriana FRN 1478. Tel: +356 2122 5241. Email: dine@phoeniciamalta.com www.phoeniciamalta.com

njoying panoramic views from the elegant terrace all the way to the Marsamxetto Harbour and the shimmering horizon beyond, rich, silky, Chilled Vichyssoise with Avruga caviar will have you reaching for a chunk of freshly baked bread to mop up the last drops while a fragrant Mediterranean salad of Gilthead bream passionfruit escabeche, coconut and kaffir lime is full of feel-good factor with its rainbow-like array of ingredients. The aroma of freshly cooked food hangs in the air each evening together with a feeling of being rested and of how good it is to be alive. Pampered by an army of service staff, warm smiles are never far away at the start of another delicious meal prepared only with seasonal ingredients sourced in Malta. From the field to the sea, Phoenix’s new à la carte menu features what the award-winning signature restaurant truly does best, great classics served with Executive Chef Daniel Debatista’s unique twist whether it is the best ever monkfish, curry, courgette, green olive combination or Iberico Pork basquaise paired with sensational sardine. It is especially romantic dining on the genial terrace overlooking seven-and-ahalf acres of manicured landscaped gardens bursting with colour and fragrance. The à la carte al fresco combines the spell of a relaxing sea-breeze cast with the charm of sunset and the grand setting next to Valletta’s mighty bastions married to stunning seasonal gourmet enjoyment. If desserts are your thing there are plenty of reasons to visit The Phoenix this summer, including sampling Mango Soufflé, coconut ice cream, lemon and lime sauce or delighting in the unctuous Frangelico Parfait, crème Chantilly, peach and hazelnut. Delight your sense of taste with this heavenly gourmet menu. We think this is the Grande Dame’s best à la carte menu ever, so pull up a chair on the expansive terrace, sink into the sunset with a bottle of the finest wine and find out for yourself. We’re sure you’ll be in absolute agreement.

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T&F SWEETS

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

SWEETS T&F

Fruity Bakes Sweet, tangy and colourful, who can say no to a piece of cake as beautiful as these? Cooking, styling and photography by Claire Borg

The cheese and fruit toppings wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t keep well. Bake the cakes ahead and then decorate them just before serving.

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T&F SWEETS

ragon fruit grows in tropical climates on a type of cactus and has a “crunchy” texture and a mild, sweet taste. The fruit comes in different varieties with either white or pink flesh. The pink-skinned varieties are either white or pink inside, so check what you’re getting when buying. If you can’t find any dragon fruit, you can substitute it with another firmfleshed fruit that can be cut into chunks without disintegrating. MAKES

PREPARATION

HOURS

CUPCAKES

YOU WILL NEED

170g plain flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 170g sugar 1 tablespoon lemon zest, grated 100g vanilla yoghurt 100g vegetable oil 2 eggs 50ml milk TO DECORATE

1 pink dragon fruit, peeled and chopped into chunks 200g cream cheese 4 tablespoons icing sugar

1. Mix the wet ingredients together

and set aside. In a large bowl, sift the flour and baking powder and add the lemon zest and sugar. Pour the wet mix into the dry mix and fold in the mixture until properly combined. 2. Fill the lined cupcake tray evenly and

bake in a hot oven set on 160°C if fanoperated, (180°C, if not), or gas mark 4. Bake for about 20-25 minutes, checking whether the cakes are done by inserting a cocktail stick or skewer into the centre. 3. Turn out the cupcakes onto a wire rack

and let them cool down completely. 4. To decorate, mix the icing sugar

and cream cheese together. Scoop a dollop onto each cupcake and decorate with chopped red dragon fruit.

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Lemon and dragon fruit cupcakes

SWEETS T&F

Dragon fruit grows in tropical climates on a type of cactus and has a “crunchy” texture and a mild, sweet taste.

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T&F SWEETS

Kiwi and chia seed cake

decorated this with tropical fruit, mixing sweet and sour flavours to complement the kiwi in the cake recipe. You can adjust the decoration according to your taste, using any fruit available in your kitchen. TIME

SERVES

MINUTES

PERSONS

YOU WILL NEED

200g plain flour 200g sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 kiwi fruit 150g milk 2 eggs 140g vegetable oil 4 tablespoons chia seeds TO DECORATE

marscarpone cheese 1 banana, sliced shredded coconut 1 passionfruit, cut into wedges 1 kiwi, peeled and sliced 1 lime cut into wedges juice of 1 lime

1. Sift the flour and baking powder

into a large bowl. Add the sugar and chia seeds and mix well. Set aside. 2. Using a stick blender, blend the

peeled kiwis, milk, eggs and vegetable oil together. Pour the mixture into the dry mix and fold in. 3. Pre-heat the oven to 160°C, if fan-

operated (180°C, if not), or gas mark 4. 4. Line a baking tin (10”) with butter

and a sprinkle of flour, and pour the cake mix into it. Bake for about 40-50 minutes or until done. Test the cake with a skewer first or it’ll collapse if it’s not properly done. 5. Cool the cake in the tin for the first

20 minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack and let it cool down completely. 6. To decorate the cake, top it with

mascarpone and garnish with whatever fruit you have handy. I used banana tossed in lime juice then coated with coconut, passionfruit, kiwi and wedges of lime.

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T&F SWEETS

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SWEETS T&F

Colourful, tangy currants make a delightful topping. Leave them on their stems for a more elegant look TIME

SERVES

MINUTES

PERSONS

YOU WILL NEED

200g plain flour 200g sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 160g milk juice of 1 lemon 2 eggs 160g vegetable oil 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon grated lime zest TO DECORATE

white chocolate spread red currants white currants black currants chia seeds

1. Sift the flour and baking powder into

a large bowl. Add the sugar and lemon and lime zest and mix well. Set aside. 2. Pour the lemon juice over the milk

and let it stand for 5 minutes without stirring, then add the vegetable oil and eggs and mix together. Pour into the dry mix and fold in. 3. Pre-heat the oven to 160°C, if fan-

operated (180°C, if not), or gas mark 4.

Lime and lemon cake with mixed fresh currants

4. Line a baking tin (10”) with butter and

a sprinkle of flour, and pour the cake mix into it. Bake for about 40-50 minutes or until done. Test the cake with a skewer before removing it from the oven 5. Let the cake cool in the tin for the first

20 minutes, then remove it from the tin and let it cool properly on a wire rack. 6. To decorate, first wash the currants

and leave them on a clean cloth to dry. Scoop some soft white chocolate spread onto the cake top and spread it out using the back of a spoon. Garnish with fresh red, white and black currants and a sprinkle of chia seeds.

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T&F SWEETS

Peach, sesame and peanut loaf TIME

SERVES

6-8

MINUTES

PERSONS

As good to look at as it tastes, this cake loaf combines sweet summer peaches with the exotic taste of coconut. YOU WILL NEED

180g plain flour 180g sugar • 1¾ tseaspoons baking powder 4 tablespoons desiccated coconut 4 tablespoons crushed sesame seeds • raw peanuts 2 tablespoons white 1 tablespoon black sesame seeds 140g milk • 2 eggs 140g vegetable oil TO DECORATE

cream cheese icing sugar peaches sesame seeds toasted peanuts

1. In a large dry skillet,

dry toast the peanuts, coconut and sesame seeds very gently and lightly, taking care to avoid them burning. Turn them out onto a heat-proof plate and allow them to cool. 2. Sift the flour and

baking powder into a large bowl. Add the sugar and toasted

seeds and nuts and mix well. Set aside. 3. Mix the milk,

vegetable oil and eggs together. Pour this into the dry mix and fold it in. 4. Pre-heat the oven

to 160°C, if fanoperated (180°C, if not), or gas mark 4.

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5. Line a loaf tin with

6. Let the cake cool

butter and a sprinkle of flour, and pour the cake mix into it. Bake for about 40-50 minutes or until done. Test the cake with a skewer before removing it from the oven

in the tin for the first 20 minutes, then remove it and let it cool properly on a wire rack. 7. To decorate, sweeten

the cream cheese by stirring in some icing

sugar and spread a thickish layer over the cooled loaf. Wash, dry and destone the peaches, and cut them into wedges and lightly press the fruit into the topping. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and toasted peanuts and serve at once.

MAKE BREAKFAST BETTER WITH

C ZIN

IRON

VIT D

T&F PASTA

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pasta is my ultimate comfort food and the first thing I cook at home after a holiday. I simply love pasta as it is so versatile, be it a simple Cacio e pepe or a more elaborate home-made fresh egg pasta with sea urchins.â&#x20AC;?

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PASTA T&F

Even the most determined carbfree dieters would admit to loving pasta. It’s a perennially favourite ingredient, loved for its variety and versatility. These recipes are drenched in flavour and richly satisfying.

PASTA DISHES “Everything you see I owe to spaghetti” Sophia Loren

Food by Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Styling and photography by Brian Grech Wine recommendations by Andrew Azzopardi

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T&F PASTA

Linguine Cacio e pepe It takes just 4 ingredients to make this typical Roman dish. It might sound simple but there are a few techniques that should be followed to get that perfect, creamy end result.

COOKING TIME

SERVES

MINUTES

AS A STARTER

WINE SUGGESTION

Chianti Classico YOU WILL NEED

320g linguine a handful of black peppercorns 200g aged Pecorino Romano, grated salt

1. Crush the peppercorns in

a pestle and mortar. 2. Bring a large pot of salted water

to the boil. Add the pasta. 3. Heat a large non-stick pan and toast Â˝

the amount of crushed pepper for a few minutes till fragrant then douse it with 2 ladles of water from the pasta pot. 4. Cook the pasta till very al dente

then transfer it directly to the pan, reserving the cooking water. Cook the pasta while stirring it continuously, adding some water if it gets too dry. 5. Meanwhile, place the Pecorino into a

bowl and add 2 ladles of the hot reserved water. Whisk it vigorously to obtain a cream then pour this over the pasta, stirring energetically all the time. 6. Sprinkle 4 pasta bowls with

some grated Pecorino and serve the pasta in these. Garnish with the remaining pepper.

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PASTA T&F

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T&F PASTA

Fettuccia con Citro e Bottarga Very unusual flavours come together in this recipe. The taste is warmly satisfying and elegant.

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PASTA T&F

COOKING TIME

SERVES

MINUTES

AS A STARTER

YOU WILL NEED

320g Fettuccia 40g unsalted Butter 100g Kalamata black olives, stoned and halved grated zest of Â˝ an orange juice of Â˝ an orange 70g bottarga, grated pepper chopped parsley

WINE SUGGESTION

Vermentino di Sardegna

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the

boil and cook the pasta till al dente. 2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large pan. Add the olives and cook for a minute before adding the orange zest and juice. Cook for 2 minutes. 3. Add the drained pasta to the pan

and toss well, adding pasta water if needed to create an emulsion. 4. Season with pepper. Add the grated

bottarga. Stir and serve at once in warm plates topped with a sprinkling of parsley.

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T&F PASTA

Nidi Fritti

This was always a favourite at home and they remind me of my dad who used to love them. I have changed the recipe a bit and added neonati to them for a more summery feel.

YOU WILL NEED

400g capellini pasta 300g neonati, defrosted and drained well 5 eggs, lightly beaten a good handful of parsley, chopped 50g grated pecorino grated rind of Â˝ lemon chili pepper salt and pepper oil to fry fresh rocket to serve

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COOKING TIME

SERVES

MINUTES, INCLUDING PREPARATION

GENEROUSLY

WINE SUGGESTION

Pinot Grigio

1. Boil the pasta in plenty of salted

3. Drain the chilled pasta well and

water till super al dente. I normally cook it for half the recommended time. Drain the pasta and plunge it into a bowl of cold water to chill and stop it cooking.

add it to the neonati mix. Season. Mix the whole mixture very well.

2. Place the drained neonati into

a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs, parsley, cheese, lemon peel and chili. Mix well.

4. Heat some oil in a large pan then

fry the fritters in batches, turning them over when golden brown. 5. Place the fritters on absorbent paper and

keep them warm in the oven till they are all done. Serve topped with fresh rocket leaves.

T&F PASTA

Paccheri con cipolle e spada in agrodolce A delicious combo of sweet onions, saffron, swordfish, pistachio nuts and a hint of fennel.

COOKING TIME

SERVES

MINUTES, INCLUDING PREPARATION

AS A STARTER

WINE SUGGESTION

Fiano d'Avellino YOU WILL NEED

320g paccheri olive oil 2 sticks cinnamon 2 large red onions, peeled and sliced a good pinch of saffron 8 tablespoons white wine vinegar 75g shelled pistachio nuts, chopped 350g swordfish, diced parsley, chopped salt and pepper 1 small teaspoon fennel seeds

1. Place the sliced onions into a bowl

and cover with cold water. Leave them to soak for 15 minutes. 2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-

bottomed pan with a tightfitting lid. Add the cinnamon sticks, then the drained onions. Stir and heat through, then cover the pan and let it simmer gently for 20 minutes. 3. Soak the saffron in a tablespoon

of hot water and the vinegar. 4. Cook the pasta in boiling salted

water till al dente. A few minutes before the pasta is ready, remove the lid from the onions. 5. Raise the heat, discard the

cinnamon sticks and add the steeped saffron. Add the pistachio nuts, swordfish and parsley. Season. 6. Toss the drained pasta into the

sauce and mix well. If it is too dry, add some of the pasta cooking water. 7. Serve topped with a very light

sprinkling of toasted fennel seeds.

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T&F PASTA

Spaghetti alla chitarra con ceci e melanzane Chick peas and aubergines together make for a great pasta dish. Throw in anchovy, garlic and sweet pomodorini to complete the picture.

COOKING TIME

SERVES

MINUTES, INCLUDING PREPARATION

AS A STARTER

YOU WILL NEED

320g spaghetti alla chitarra olive oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 6 anchovy fillets 1 large aubergine, washed and diced chili 1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 175g pomodorini, halved fresh mint, basil and parsley

WINE SUGGESTION

Sicilian Nerello Mascalese 1. Prepare the breadcrumb topping

first by frying the breadcrumbs in olive oil with the grated horseradish and chili flakes for a few minutes till golden brown and crisp. Keep aside. 2. Heat olive oil in a frying pan. Add the

garlic and anchovies. Fry till browned slightly and the fillets disintegrate. 3. Add the diced aubergine and fry,

TO SERVE

50g stale breadcrumbs 5cm piece fresh horseradish, grated 1 teaspoon chili flakes

adding more olive oil as needed. Cook for 10 minutes before adding the chili and chickpeas. Stir and cook for a further 5 minutes. 4. Add the pomodorini and coarsely

chopped herbs. Simmer gently while you cook the pasta till al dente. Drain lightly and add to the pan. Mix well before serving with the fried breadcrumbs on the side.

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PASTA T&F

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F PASTA

Pasta al uovo con ricci di mare A bit of a fancy dish, yet very easy to make and great to serve up for that special occasion.

COOKING TIME

SERVES

MINUTES, INCLUDING PREPARATION & RESTING TIME

AS A STARTER

PASTA

400g plain flour, sifted 4 eggs salt 1 tablespoon olive oil SAUCE

80g butter 1 leek, cleaned and finely chopped approximately 1 litre fish stock (see step 5) 50g Parmesan, grated salt and pepper 2 small tubs sea urchins micro herbs to garnish

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3. Warm up the fish stock. WINE SUGGESTION

Premium CĂ´tes de Provence RosĂŠ 1. Place the flour in a food processor.

Add the eggs, salt and olive oil. Blitz to combine, then turn out onto a floured surface and work the dough for a few seconds to bring it together. Wrap it in plastic and leave it to rest in the fridge for 1 hour. 2. Cut the pastry into 4 pieces. Roll

it out on a floured surface using your hands to make four long ribbons then use a sharp knife to cut it into little gnocchi shapes (approximately 1cm in size). Transfer the pasta to a well-floured tray.

4. Melt 60g of the butter in a large

pan. Add the leeks and cook them till softened but do not allow them to brown. Carefully add the pasta shapes and stir very gently to coat them, then add 2 ladles of the fish stock. 5. Allow the pasta to absorb the liquid,

then add more stock as you would when preparing a risotto. Check and adjust the seasoning. Continue till the pasta is cooked but still with a bit of bite. (You might not need all the stock or you might need more. This depends upon the size of the pasta.) 6. Add the grated cheese and stir it to

melt, then add the rest of the butter. Remove the pan from the heat and mix till the butter is melted. Serve topped with the raw sea urchin poured over and a few micro herbs to garnish.

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T&F WINE

THERENAISSANCEOF Traditionally dismissed by wine aficionados as not being a wine drinkers’ wine, rosé is enjoying a resurgence, says Andrew Azzopardi

“Our warm summer evenings and light Mediterranean foods are such a good match with the Provence-style rosés available, that it has become a great alternative to white wine” 42

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

WINE T&F

icture yourself soaking up the sun on board a fancy yacht, in the middle of an empty Blue Lagoon, eating lavish arrays of fresh fish, vegetables and fruit, and sipping a refreshing glass of delicious rosé. This is often the mental image I conjure up when someone mentions rosé. Yet, only a few years ago, my visualisation would have been somewhat different. Then it was super-sweet, low quality, quasiquaffable wine my ex-girlfriend bought on special offer from the local convenience shop. Of course, that is nothing to do with the reason she’s now an ex-girlfriend. It’s true that in both cases, I sound rather extreme, but the resurgence of rosé in recent years has been just that – extreme. Often referred to as a wine for people who don’t really like wine, rosé has not only recovered from a terrible reputation but is now arguably the trendiest wine to drink while vacationing in St Tropez. The cool marketing, stylish bottles and sexy “instagramable” pink colour helped revive this type of wine. Still, hashtags and funky advertising alone could not have propelled rosé to the international stardom it enjoys today.

wine rosé, e.g. Schillerwein in Germany. An exception is made in the case of Champagne, where some producers still use this method to ensure a consistent colour and taste year in and year out. A general understanding of the different methods used behind the production of rosé wine allows one to appreciate the reasons behind the extreme quality variations. Giant producers Louis Roederer were one of the early trend setters of superior quality rosé, with their gastronomic rendition of Domaines Ott. Former power couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie also wanted to focus on quality and teamed up with wellknown winemakers Perrin et Fils, to produce a premium wine that can compete at the highest levels. Flamboyant producer Sascha Lichine stormed onto the market shortly after with Chateau D’Esclans, boasting a luscious selection of rosé at different price points with beautiful feminine names, leaving their mark in the world of wine. Suddenly, stylish, elegant and extremely enjoyable rosé wines were getting noticed. By 2015, Michelin starred restaurants and well-known sommeliers started including rosé wines on their wine-lists further confirming demand of these dry, pale-coloured Provence rosés that were already so immensely popular in celebrity-studded places such as Monaco, Cannes, Ibiza and Mallorca. These wines had become synonymous with fresh, zesty, thirst-quenching wines with refreshing summery flavours of red fruits such as strawberries, raspberries and watermelon, with a superb mineral backbone best enjoyed during the warm summer months. As a result of the huge increase in demand for rosé, other wineproducing countries immediately followed suit, and renowned quality producers from Italy, Spain, New Zealand, Oregon and Austria started producing refreshing rosés each with their own individual styles. The demand in rosé prompted other producers to start experimenting with new techniques, grapes and methods and complex rosé wines started to emerge Unfortunately, not only quality producers jumped on the bandwagon, but cheap mass-produced table wine soon exploded onto the market, and supermarket shelves were suddenly bursting at their seams with pink hues from light salmon-coloured wines to darker, more copper-coloured rosé from all over the world, all with different levels of quality and style. The rise in popularity of rosé wine is fantastic news to us, the consumer, due to the abundant choice of good quality rosé wine. However, to the less experienced, sifting through pink plonk may not be such an easy task. The colour will often give a good indication of what to expect. The lighter Provence-style rosé wines are usually fruitier, lighter and crisper in structure, whereas darker, burnt orange or coppercoloured rosé wines are fuller-bodied, richer and best served with food. Price is often consistent with quality and spending a few more euros often returns better value. Our warm summer evenings and light Mediterranean foods are such a good match with the Provence-style rosés available, that it has become a great alternative to white wine, and I often leave a bottle or two in the fridge ready for that day by the pool or at the beach.

“These wines had become synonymous with fresh, zesty, thirst-quenching wines with refreshing summery taste.”

ROSÉ

Serious winemakers have been giving rosé wine the attention it deserves since the early 2000s and the outcome has been nothing short of impressive. The renaissance of these pink coloured wines has been so successful that the consumer has benefitted from countless choices of rosés ranging from refreshingly crisp, fruity and fun, to more structured, complex and age-worthy wines already turning heads in the wine-world. From a technical point of view, most good quality rosé wine is made in a similar way to red wine, but with less skin contact (shorter maceration) and therefore less colour. Just like tea remains light-coloured if you only leave the teabag in contact with the water for a short time, similarly rosé wine remains in contact with the grape skins for a short enough time (usually a few hours to just a few days) to simply give a pink colour to the juice. Sometimes, winemakers bleed off a bit of the pink coloured juice, commonly referred to as must, to make rosé wine, while leaving the remainder in contact with the skins to ultimately make red wine. This method, known as Saignée (or bleeding method), is commonly associated with cheaper or entry-level rosé wines, though it is a bit unfair to say that all rosé wines made in this method are low quality. The remaining must will eventually result in a bolder and richer red wine, and the producer would have managed to extract rosé wine as a by-product. Blending red and white wine is almost never done – very few producers do this but they are not legally allowed to call the

Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F CUISINE

Mediterranean Holiday Beat the summer heat with refreshing salads and juicy fish cooked in minutes. These recipes are (mostly) drawn from the cuisine of Mediterranean islands. Food and photography by Amy Mallia.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

CUISINE T&F

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F CUISINE

INSALATA Eoliana

n archipelago of seven islands off the Northern coast of Sicily, the Aeolian Islands take their name from Aeolus, the Greek god of the winds. Emerging from the sea over 600,000 years ago, the islands have rich agricultural soil thanks to volcanic activity. Two of the islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; volcanoes, Stromboli and Volcano, are still active. This recipe uses red onions from Tropea, which were first brought to Calabria by the Greeks, who had learned of them from the Assyrians and Babylonians. The cultivation of the Tropea onion was perfected by the Arabs who had settled in the Calabrian region. The onions have a sweet taste and delicate scent thanks to the particularities of the soil in which they grow. In Malta, they can be found in some supermarkets. Fresh, summer sun-ripened tomatoes are best for this recipe because they have a richer taste than the greenhouse varieties.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

1. Wash and slice up the PREPARATION

SERVES

MINUTES

AS PART OF A SPREAD

tomatoes, peel and thinly slice the Tropea onion into rings. 2. Layer the tomato slices and

onion slices on a platter. Scatter the olives and capers over the top. YOU WILL NEED

800g tomatoes 1 Tropea red onion 1 small can anchovy fillets (optional) green olives capers fresh oregano a few fresh basil leaves extra-virgin olive oil red wine vinegar

The cultivation of the Tropea onion was perfected by the Arabs who had settled in the Calabrian region.

3. If you are using the anchovy

fillets, cut them in half and spread them over the salad. 4. Drizzle the salad with olive

oil mixed with red wine vinegar and season to taste. Sprinkle the oregano and basil leaves over the dish and serve immediately.

T&F CUISINE

MEDITERRANEAN

chickpea farro salad with prawns F

arro, often confused with spelt, is a fibre and protein-packed grain that has been traced back to early Mesopotamia. The name “farro” refers to ancient grains which were brought to Ancient Rome from the Middle East around 44 B.C. Cooked farro looks similar to pearl barley but has a chewier texture and an interesting nutty taste. This salad is ideal to make in advance and can be stored in the fridge until needed.

PREPARATION

SERVES

MINUTES

PERSONS

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

CUISINE T&F

FOR THE SALAD

345g cooked farro 330g cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed (you can use canned chickpeas) 280g cherry tomatoes, halved 1 cucumber, diced 2 spring onions, trimmed and chopped (both white and green parts) 1 large handful fresh parsley, chopped mint leaves, chopped FOR THE PRAWNS

450g prawns, peeled and deveined, with the tails left on (or use readypeeled frozen ones for convenience) sea salt black pepper extra virgin olive oil FOR THE SALAD DRESSING

juice of 1 lemon 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil sea salt black pepper 2 teaspoons dried oregano Â˝ teaspoon ground cumin Â˝ teaspoon sumac

1. Place all the ingredients for

the salad dressing in a bowl and whisk well until combined. 2. In a separate large bowl, combine

the cooked farro with the chickpeas, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, green onion, parsley and mint leaves. 3. Pour most of the dressing on

the salad and toss to combine, leaving a bit of dressing for the shrimp. Set aside for later. 4. Place the prawns in a bowl, pat

dry with some kitchen paper. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with extra virgin olive. 5. Heat a frying pan or grill pan over

a high heat. Add the prawns and cook on one side till they start to turn pink, turn over and cook on both sides. This should take about 5 minutes in total. 6. Take the prawns out of the pan

and toss them in the remainder of the salad dressing. 7. Place the salad on a serving platter

and add the shrimp on top.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

Rich in fiber,

ideal for a nutritious delicious and balanced meal

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CUISINE T&F

SANTORINI salad T

ypically, Santorini salad is made with kefalotyri, a hard cheese which can be grated and has a similar taste and texture to Pecorino Romano. Kefalotyri should not be confused with chlorotyri, which is made in Santorini in limited quantities and is unlikely to be found outside the island. Chlorotyri is the first part of the feta cheese making process and is traditionally given to brides by their mother on their wedding day. The salad is normally served on crisp rye bread. I used thinly sliced, crusty bread roasted with olive oil until crisp and dark, and feta cheese instead of kefalotyri. The textureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s different but it tastes delicious.

Chlorotyri is the first batch of the feta cheese making process and is traditionally given to brides by their mother on their wedding day. 1. Preheat the oven to 200Â°C. Place PREPARATION

SERVES

MINUTES

AS PART OF A SPREAD

YOU WILL NEED

half a punnet of sun-ripened cherry tomatoes 1 cucumber, thinly sliced 70ml extra-virgin olive oil 4-6 thin slices of crusty, rustic bread 6 anchovy fillets 40g feta cheese, diced finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 1 garlic clove, crushed a small handful of mint leaves, torn a small handful of flat-leaf parsley, torn a small handful of dill tops, torn 1 salad onion, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons baby capers in brine, rinsed 2 tablespoons oregano

the bread slices on a lined baking tray, brush with olive oil, season well and bake until crisp and dark-golden brown (6-7 minutes). Remove the tray from the oven, set it aside and allow the toasted bread to cool. 2. Meanwhile, whisk 60ml olive oil

with 1 finely chopped anchovy fillet, the lemon rind and juice, and the garlic and oregano. Season to taste. 3. In a large bowl, mix together all

the remaining ingredients (except the cheese), pour in half the dressing and toss the salad well. 4. Arrange the cooled, roasted

bread slices on a platter and spoon the salad over them. Scatter the cheese cubes over the top, drizzle the salad with the remaining salad dressing and serve immediately.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F CUISINE

una-fishing in the Mediterranean goes back several thousand years. The practice is mentioned in Aristotleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s History of Animals, which dates back to around 350 B.C. Atlantic Bluefin tuna are highly-migratory, arriving from afar to enter the Mediterranean through the Straits of Gibraltar to spawn. Traditional tunnara fishing in Malta with large nets (see Taste issue 005, summer 2005), began in 1748 when Grand Master Pinto set up the first tunnara net in Ghadira Bay in Mellieha. The tunnara lasted up to 1961 when fishermen laid nets off the coast of L-Imgiebah below Selmun, just outside Mellieha, hoping for a bigger catch. A patrolling naval frigate became entangled in the uncharted nets, which led to the longstanding tunnara tradition to a sudden and unexpected end. This recipe is quick and easy to prepare. Keep some extra sesame seeds to hand in case you need them while cooking. YOU WILL NEED

400g tuna fillet 5 tablespoons of sesame seeds 1 lemon extra virgin olive oil salt

1. Mix the juice of 1 lemon and

olive oil together with some salt. Cut the tuna into small cubes, place them in a bowl and pour over the oil and lemon juice mix. Set the bowl aside and let the fish marinate for around 30 minutes. 2. To cook, heat a flat grill or large

frying pan until it is very hot. Spread out the sesame seeds on a flat plate. Using a slotted spoon, lift the tuna cubes out of the marinade and roll each one in the sesame seeds until they are all completely coated. 3. Sear the sesame-coated tuna

cubes on all sides until the seeds turn golden and the fish is lightly cooked on the outside but rare in the middle (around 2-3 minutes). Serve at once with a Mediterranean salad.

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SEARED TUNA

in sesame seeds PREPARATION

SERVES

MINUTES, EXCLUDING MARINATION

AS PART OF A SPREAD

CUISINE T&F

Tuna-fishing is mentioned in Aristotleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s History of Animals, which dates back to around 350 B.C.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

CUISINE T&F

PREPARATION

20 MINUTES

SERVES

4 AS PART OF A SPREAD

YOU WILL NEED

2 navel oranges or blood oranges 1 large fennel bulb, sliced vertically 1 red onion, peeled and sliced thinly small fresh mint leaves, torn 3 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil dark olives

1. Peel the oranges and remove all the pith, using a sharp knife to scrape off the stubborn bits. 2. Using a serrated knife,

slice the oranges across the middle so that you cut across the segments. (You can also separate the segments and remove the membrane, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fiddlier and takes more time).

The navel oranges used in this recipe derive from a single tree which grew in Brazil some 200 years ago.

3. Lightly brush a platter with

extra virgin olive oil. Lay the orange rounds and fennel slices on the platter in alternating layers and scatter the olives and onion slices over the top and drizzle with olive oil. 4. Leave the platter in the fridge until the salad turns cold (about 30 minutes), then serve it seasoned with freshly ground black pepper and scattered with torn mint leaves. 5. Alternatively, separate the

oranges into segments and toss them with shredded fennel, onion, mint, and oil in large bowl until well coated. Season the salad with freshly ground black pepper, turn it out onto a platter and serve immediately garnished with olives.

ORANGE, FENNEL AND MINT salad T

he navel oranges used in this recipe derive from a single tree which grew in Brazil some 200 years ago. A mutation in the treeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s DNA caused two oranges to be produced in one single fruit. The second orange, which developed at the bottom of the fruit, resembles a human navel, hence its name. The seedless oranges are propagated using techniques like grafting, so every navel orange can be considered a descendant of that single mutated tree dating back to the 1800s. A typical Sicilian dish, orange and fennel salad is possibly my favourite. The sweet tanginess of the oranges contrasts perfectly with the sharpness of the red onion, and the fennel adds interesting flavour.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F CUISINE

LEMON

granita

PREPARATION

10 MINUTES, EXCLUDING FREEZING TIME

MAKES SEVERAL SERVINGS

his is a family favourite that my mother makes. She says that “scraping” the granita is much easier than it sounds, but that it’s worth the effort for its refreshing taste and for the memories of many a happy childhood spent by the sea. I quite agree.

1. Put the granulated sugar into a saucepan with the water

YOU WILL NEED

safe container, then add the egg and stir gently. The egg mix might rise to the surface when first combined with the lemon syrup mix, but it will blend in when you mix it as it freezes.

500ml freshly-squeezed lemon juice 2.5l water 1 egg white 200g granulated sugar 50g icing sugar TO GARNISH

fresh, whole mint leaves

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

and bring it to the boil. Let the mixture boil, uncovered, until it turns syrupy, (around 15 minutes) stirring occasionally. Set the pot aside and allow the liquid to cool. 2. Set a heat-proof bowl over a pot of boiling water (bain-marie). Pour in

the egg white and icing sugar and whisk the mixture thoroughly until it forms soft peaks. Remove the bowl from the heat immediately. 3. Combine the lemon juice with the sugar syrup in a freezer-

4. Freeze the mixture for at least 6 hours, stirring it with a balloon

whisk at various intervals until it reaches the right consistency. 5. Once the mixture is properly frozen, scrape the granita into granules

with a metal spoon, and store it in a closed box in the freezer. Serve this in a large bowl or as individual portions, topped with mint leaves.

T&F ISLAND LIFE

MAGICAL MYKONOS A strange current that makes you tingle with excitement runs through Mykonos. It has a metaphysical quality. If you really want to get to know someone, bring them to Mykonos and set them free” – Sofia Thanopoulou

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

ISLAND LIFE T&F

“Listen to the land when you build” Aris Konstantinidis, Two Villages from Mykonos

lder than legend, the Cycladian islands in the Aegean are mythologised as the bodies of gods felled by Hercules in antiquity, and have played host to countless varying cultures over the millennia. Among them sits Mykonos, the “island of the winds”, so-called because of the fresh breezes that blow all year round, turning the pristine waters wild, filling the sails of pleasure boats, and ruffling visitors’ sarongs and kaftans. Permanently home today to a community of just 10,000, in the 1960s the “Ibiza of Greece” drew a stream of socialites, stars, and dreamers who were attracted by the island’s unspoilt nature and the chance to party without the endless scrutiny of paparazzi. Lizy Manola, a Greek documentary photographer, first came to Mykonos as a young traveler in the 1970s. She fell in love with the island, eventually buying a house there to which she has returned for long summer holidays for the past thirty years. Her description of the Mykonos of her youth is an homage to a lost world where Bohemians and the beau monde mingled with hospitable Mykonians, the resident population who subsisted on hard graft. In the streets of Mykonos, against the backdrop of the island’s distinct whitewashed architecture and windmills, a parade of artists, photographers, models and designers, mingled with families, fortune hunters, shipping tycoons and hippies.

Lizt Manola on Mykonos in the late 1970s © Peter Schoenborn.

Detail of a 2nd century mosaic at the House of Dionysus on Delos © Lizy Manola.

Little Venice at dusk - this is where the sea captains lived during Ottoman rule. Sailors resorted to piracy, building their homes over the the sea to be able to unload their spoils directly into their cellars © Lizy Manola.

One of the iconic windmills, built in the 16th century © Lizy Manola.

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T&F ISLAND LIFE

“Unless you have seen the houses of Mykonos, you can’t pretend to be an architect. Whatever architecture has to say, it is said here.” Le Corbusier A secret deck for skinny dipping at Paraga - nudism became fashionable in the 1970s, a spin off of the flower power revolution © Lizy Manola.

This was an era when the shock waves of the flower power revolution could still be felt and when travelling in the Mediterranean was still adventurous and exotic. Mykonos’ beaches were unspoilt and uncrowded, mechanised transport was non-existent, and the island could only be reached by propeller plane or, more commonly, by boat, an 8-hour journey from Piraeus, Greece’s main port. It was a place where fishermen bobbed in brightly painted boats and mended their nets on the quays, where young children could sit by the sea, dangling their feet in the water, without any worried adults hovering over them, while older children dived off the jetty to scoop up sea urchins and could split them open to rake out the roe with their fingers and enjoy it fresh out of the shell. Mykonos Muse chronicles the culture and society that has defined the island over the past century—from its days as a hideout for such luminaries and elites as Le Corbusier and Antonis Benakis, to its moment as a sanctuary for the gay community, to its predominant party scene, and indulging the reader with the ruins and myths hidden there. n

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

A sinuous, brushed concrete staircase at a house in Chora © Ioanna Roufopoulou.

Mykonos Muse (text by Lizy Manola with Rachel Howard and Michael Skafidas) is published by Assouline www.assouline.com

The steep, rocky terrain was incorporated into the design of this house by sculptor and interior designer Deborah French © Roland Beaufre.

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DÉCOR T&F

Mediterranean motifs

Freshen up your home with colours that evoke the crystalline blue-green sea and fresh fruit falling ripe from a tree. Decorate your shelves and tabletops with a mix of curios with a nod to the bohemian look, but an even bigger nod to the Mediterranean palette and portfolio. Megan Mallia has a few ideas to get you started.

THE SCALLOP SHELL Seashells allude to glittering sun-speckled waters and have been collected and used in decoration for centuries. One particular type of shell has been celebrated more than any other in the arts - the scallop shell. Think of Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus where the golden-haired goddess stands on a larger-than-life scallop shell. The same shell features more subtly in Da Vinci’s Annunciation. In Christianity, the scallop shell is symbolic of baptism and is associated with James the apostle, the brother of John. The motif echoes and resonates throughout art as a metaphor for purity and renewal. Next time you are in Valletta, play the tourist and look for the scallop motif on the façade of St John’s Co-cathedral as well as above several doors in the narrow side streets. Toast Renaissance art and the Mediterranean simultaneously by placing scallops among your books and on your tabletops. For a more beautiful effect, give your shelves a fresh slick of Prussian blue paint or drape your table with a turquoise cloth as a foil for the off white, cream and caramel hues of the shells. Try using a shell as a quirky ring holder on your dressing table or as a dish for hand soap in your kitchen or bathroom.

Photo: Megan Mallia

FISH

s with seashells, the fish motif is an instant calling to the sea. What better way to capture the look of the glittering expanses of blue Mediterranean water than through the creatures that have spent millennia swimming through them? Quite like the scallop shell, the symbolism of the fish spans several centuries and civilisations. From early times, the fish was the mark of a Christian, after it came to stand for Jesus Christ from the Greek word ἰχθύς, meaning “sign of the fish”. In Buddhism, the fish represents happiness because it has the freedom of living in water, swimming where it pleases. As a gastronomic and monetary resource, fish were historically one of the ties that bind societies, as they still are in some places, hence their importance in art. Fish have swum through watercolour and other pigments because of their importance. Just look at Japanese gyotaku art, which dates back to the 19th century, where actual fish are used to create prints (see Taste&Flair 095, December 2016), or Ernst Haeckel’s marine art. You can use the fish motif in any part of your furniture or decoration, such as printed bowls, tablecloths or cushions. For a vintage feel, hang up prints of Ernst Haekel’s fish on your walls. You never really will lose out because today most shops for the home offer an array of dishes in the shape of fish, some large enough to serve lunch in, others small enough to hold trinkets. For an authentically Sicilian touch, trawl the markets or – even better – hop over to Palermo for hand-painted ceramic fish-shaped dishes.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

T&F DÉCOR

Coral and turquoise

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

Photo: Megan Mallia

As a colour, coral seems to come back into fashion every few years and the same happens with turquoise. The two make such a bold and beautiful complementary pair, yet they are hardly ever combined in interiors. Although often thought of as a plant, coral is technically an animal because it does not have the convenient plant-esque feature of producing its own food through photosynthesis. Instead, it takes root on the seabed and scoops tiny drifting particles of food into its almost invisible mouth. Coral and algae exist in a symbiotic relationship, each benefitting from what the other has to give. Algae benefits from shelter because it grows within the coral’s tissues, and also makes use of the coral’s metabolic waste products to photosynthesise. Coral benefits from oxygen produced by the algae, allowing it to thrive and grow into a coral reef. Turquoise is one of the oldest gemstones in the world. In Ancient Egypt, it was known as mefkat, which loosely translates to “joy” or “delight”. Throughout history, civilisations have used turquoise to embellish sacred statues and create jewellery. Turquoise’s blue-green hues are a result of its copper and aluminium components, shaped under the right conditions over millennia. To incorporate this colour palette in your home, try experimenting with a block colour look. Paint a small coffee table in coral and top it with turquoise vases or figurines, and repaint a bookshelf next to it in a deeper shade of turquoise. Try a softer, textured look by picking out an array of cushions in a gradient of one colour, laying them on a sofa of the complementary shade.

Pomegranates Pomegranates evoke a sense of abundance, the harvest and sweet ruby-red jewels in hard cases falling from trees. It is not a summer fruit, but the motif is a Mediterranean staple at any time of year. The Greeks consider the pomegranate as a symbol of luck. Even to this day, new brides toss and break open pomegranates for good fortune. In classical mythology, the fruit marks Persephone’s seasonal return to the Underworld after she eats it. While the myth of Persephone does not immediate suggest an association between luck and the pomegranate (only a pessimist would call an annual six months with Hades ‘luck’), it does parallel pomegranates with a good harvest. Demeter, the mother of Persephone, controlled the fertility of the soil, and when her daughter was made to spend half of each year with Hades she stopped the crops with drought. When Persephone returned after each sixth month, however, Demeter graced the soils with fertility and created a great harvest, marking the change of seasons. Pomegranates can be left to dry and be used in a groups as a centrepiece, or scattered singly around a room. Because of their organic shape, as with any other element of nature, they soften the angles and corners of hard furnishing. If the skin is discoloured or looks leathery and the fruit is soft to the touch, the fruit has begun to rot and should be discarded. Ceramic pomegranates, on the other hand, last all year round.

Chilled Chilea n

Tel: 21 237555 • facebook.com/attardcowines • www.attardcowines.com

LIGHT & FRESH T&F

CAPRI

INSPIRATION

Created in Capri, the classic combination of summer tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh basil drizzled with olive oil gets a fresh new look in a Gozo kitchen. Food and photography by Claire Borg

e know where Caprese salad came from, but its originator remains unknown. That person may have been an Italian labourer in the early 20th century who made himself a patriotic tricoloured sandwich, or it may really have been a cook at Hotel Quissisana in Capri inspired by Futurism’s founder Filippo Tommaso Marinetti’s raging about pasta being passé. Whoever created this salad found a perfect formula that is still popular today. These recipes are variations on that theme.

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T&F LIGHT & FRESH

Tomato focaccia with mozzarella and basil

Caprese salad signalled a flour-free future cuisine that hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite replaced the satisfying pleasure of freshly baked focaccia. 68

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LIGHT & FRESH T&F

aprese salad signalled a flourfree future cuisine that hasn’t quite replaced the satisfying pleasure of freshly baked focaccia. And nothing tastes better than home-baked focaccia, unless it’s home-baked focaccia Caprese filled with the taste of fresh basil, creamy mozzarella and summer tomatoes. Don’t be put off by the long preparation time. The actual work involved is minimal.

PREPARATION

SERVES

HOURS

PERSONS

YOU WILL NEED

500g flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 11g dry active yeast 50g olive oil 100g white wine 159g water cherry tomatoes mozzarella cut into chunks basil leaves

1. Mix the yeast with the water and

let it stand for 5-10 minutes. 2. Mix the salt, sugar and flour together

in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the yeasty water. Using a knife or scraper, push some of the flour mix into the water and use the knife tip to stir it to form a smooth paste. Cover

the bowl and let it rest for about 15-20 minutes to allow the yeast to rise. 3. Add the olive oil and white wine

to the well and mix it all together to form a soft dough. Turn it out onto a clean, lightly-floured surface and knead it for 10 minutes. Towards the end of the kneading, add the chopped basil and chunks of mozzarella. 4. Brush the inside of a clean bowl

with olive oil and place the dough inside. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and let the dough rise until it doubles in size (about 1½ hours). Knock back the dough, let it rest, then roll it out on a lightly-floured surface. It should be about an inch thick. 5. Place the dough on an oiled baking

sheet, cover it with a clean cloth and let it prove again until it doubles in size. 6. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Using

your fingertips, make dimples in the dough’s surface, drizzle it with olive oil, press cherry tomatoes and basil into the top of the dough, and sprinkle it with some sea salt. 7. Bake the focaccia in a hot oven for

about 30-40 minutes until golden brown. To check that the focaccia is cooked, tap the underside – it will sound hollow when done. 8. Let the focaccia cool down properly,

then serve it in slices or split open and filled with more tomatoes, mozzarella and basil drizzled with olive oil.

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T&F LIGHT & FRESH

Pasta salad

his recipe reverses the no-flour ethos of the original Caprese salad. Varying quantities of different types of tomato give it extra taste and colour. I used white, orange and red cherry tomatoes and heirloom varieties. PREPARATION

20 MINUTES

SERVES

5 PERSONS

YOU WILL NEED

500g pasta of your choice 4 tablespoons basil pesto a variety of tomatoes, cut up a small handful of basil leaves, chopped a handful rucola leaves, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons sundried tomatoes, minced or finely chopped 4 tablespoons olive oil 100g walnuts freshly ground black pepper 25/30 mini fresh mozzarella balls

1. Cook the pasta as

indicated, then drain it and rinse it under cold water to stop it cooking. Toss the pasta with a little bit of olive oil to stop it sticking and let it cool completely. 2. Put all the remaining

ingredients into a large mixing bowl and stir everything together. 3. Mix in the cooled, cooked

pasta, season to taste. Put the salad in the fridge for 30 minutes to cool down before serving with extra dressing on the side.

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CMY

T&F LIGHT & FRESH

Caprese salad

he essence of a Caprese salad are its lightness and simplicity and the use of quality ingredients: mozzarella, tomato, basil and olive oil. Use freshly cut basil and sun-ripened tomatoes for this classic dish. PREPARATION

5 MINUTES

SERVES

1 PERSON

YOU WILL NEED

fresh mozzarella sun-ripened tomatoes basil leaves olive oil

1. Wash the basil leaves

and pat them dry with kitchen paper. 2. Core and evenly slice

the tomatoes across their middle. Cut up the mozzarella balls into equally thick slices. 3. Assemble the

salad by layering the tomato, mozzarella, and basil alternately. 4. Drizzle with olive oil

and serve immediately.

The essence of a Caprese salad are its lightness and simplicity and the use of quality ingredients. 72

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LIGHT & FRESH T&F

Caprese skewers

aprese salad on mini-skewers is a fun idea to serve as a light appetiser or to accompany drinks.

PREPARATION

10 MINUTES

SERVES

6 AS AN APPETISER

YOU WILL NEED

12 cherry tomatoes 12 mini mozzarella balls large, freshly cut basil leaves

1. Wash the basil leaves and tomatoes and pat them dry with kitchen paper. 2. Using mediumsized bamboo sticks, skewer the mozzarella balls, basil leaves and cherry tomatoes. 3. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re serving these

on a plate as appetisers, drizzle them with olive oil when plated.

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T&F LIGHT & FRESH

Capricious Caprese

hen you crave the clean quality of a classic Caprese salad but want a little something extra, this salad fills the void. For the best taste, use fresh salad leaves, rather than the ready-washed and bagged variety, and the best olive oil you can find. PREPARATION

10 MINUTES

SERVES

1 PERSON

YOU WILL NEED

a generous handful of mixed cherry tomatoes 8-10 mozzarelline baby salad leaves a few fresh basil leaves 1 tablespoon flaked almonds 1 teaspoon chia seeds 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons olive oil

1. Wash the baby salad

leaves and basil leaves and pat them dry. 2. Chop the cherry

tomatoes in half. Mix the leaves and tomatoes together. Add the mozzarelline and mix again. 3. Shake the olive oil and

vinegar together and drizzle over the salad. Save any extra dressing and store it in the fridge. 4. Scatter the chia seeds

over the salad, toss it well until it is wellcoated in dressing, and serve immediately.

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T&F REFRESHERS

CHILLED TEA AND CAKE Teatime in hot weather calls for cold drinks and ice cream. Try these infusions made with tea, fruit and herbs. Serve them chilled or poured over ice with a slice of home-made ice cream cake. Photography: Megan Mallia and Corinne Vella

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REFRESHERS T&F

Karkade with rose hips and lemon Karkade is made from the dark red hibiscus flower and has a surprising berrylike flavour. It can be infused alone but tastes better when infused with rose hips. FOR THE INFUSION SERVES

3-4 PERSONS

PREPARATION

10 MINUTES, EXCLUDING COOLING & FREEZING TIME

1 handful of dried hibiscus flowers (you can find these in specialist grocery shops) 1 tablespoon rose hips 600ml water TO SERVE

lemon slices karkade ice cubes with mint tips

1. Bring the water to the

3. Fill an ice cube tray with

boil. Add the dried hibiscus flowers and rose hips. Keep the water boiling for 2-3 minutes, stirring it occasionally with a metal spoon (the dark colour of karkade will stain a wooden spoon).

mint tips, pour in some of the cooled infusion and freeze the tray. Put the remaining liquid in the fridge for several hours or overnight.

2. Remove the pan from

4. Serve the karkade chilled

with lemon slices or poured over mint and karkade ice cubes. (see page 84)

the heat and strain the infusion into a heat-proof glass container to remove the flowers. Let the mixture stand until it cools.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Ginger and nectarine green tea infusion Alternately sweet, tart, and spicy, this is a different take on a classic peach tea. The drink is only as good as the infusion. If the water’s too hot, you’ll end up with a liquid that tastes like boiled cabbage.

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REFRESHERS T&F

PREPARATION

SERVES

2-3

MINUTES, EXCLUDING COOLING TIME

PERSONS

FOR THE INFUSION

2 ripe but firm-fleshed nectarines 4 teaspoons of green tea leaves a piece of ginger root, approximately 2” 500ml water honey (optional) TO SERVE

1 quarter nectarine per person ginger root, peeled and sliced 1 tablespoon finely chopped Moroccan mint leaves

1. Slice the unpeeled nectarines

in half, remove the stone, and slice the fruit into halfmoons about 4mm thick. 2. Peel the ginger root and slice

it into discs about 4mm thick. 3. Heat the water to

approximately 70°C 4. Put the sliced fruit and ginger into

a heat-proof jug or pot with the tea leaves and pour in the hot water. Let the mixture infuse for around 15 minutes. It should turn a light golden brown with a slightly green tint. 5. Strain the mixture into another

Green tea tastes best when infused in hot water well below boiling point, roughly 60-75°C.

pot. Quickly rinse the fruit and ginger slices to remove the tea leaves and put them back into the liquid, and put the container into the fridge to infuse for a few hours. 6. To serve, place a few fresh slices of

nectarine in each glass, skewer the ginger discs with cocktail sticks (3-4 per person) and roll them in freshly chopped mint. Pour the cooled infusion into the glasses and top each one with a ginger mint cocktail stick.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Basil, lemon and green tea infusion Green tea tastes best when infused in hot water well below boiling point, roughly 60°C-75°C. Infusing green tea in boiling water ruins the taste. The ideal water temperature for green tea depends on the particular type. If you don’t have a tea thermometer, boil the water then mix it with water at room temperature. The proportion should be approximately 3 parts boiling water to 1 part water at room temperature.

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REFRESHERS T&F

Infusing green tea in boiling water ruins the taste. PREPARATION

SERVES

2-3

MINUTES, EXCLUDING INFUSING & CHILLING TIME

PERSONS

FOR THE INFUSION

3 teaspoons green tea leaves 1 loose handful of freshly picked basil leaves, washed 1 lemon, unwaxed, washed and thinly sliced honey, if you like your tea sweet 750ml water TO GARNISH

basil flower stems (optional)

1. Put the tea leaves into a heat-

resistant glass jug or teapot. Heat the water to 60-75Â°C, pour it over the tea leaves and stir gently. 2. Add the half the sliced lemon and

basil leaves, stir them in gently, and leave the jug or pot to stand for 15 minutes while the tea infuses. 3. Strain the infusion into another

heat-resistant jug or pot to remove the infused ingredients. Add the remaining basil leaves and lemon slices to the infused liquid, cover the container and leave it in the fridge for a few hours to chill completely. 4. Serve in individual glasses

garnished with basil flower stems.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Green tea with peppermint and melon Use a tea thermometer to check the water temperature before adding the tea leaves. If the water is too hot, the leaves will cook, giving the infusion an unpleasant taste. PREPARATION

SERVES

2-3

MINUTES, EXCLUDING COOLING TIME

PERSONS

FOR THE INFUSION

a small handful of peppermint leaves, washed 3 teaspoons good green tea leaves two tablespoons caster sugar (or light acacia honey) half a small green melon, peeled 500ml water TO SERVE

peppermint stems chopped mint leaves melon balls

1. Heat up the water to around

70Â°C. Pour it over the green tea leaves in a heat-proof jug or pot and stir. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes. 2. Strain the infusion to remove

the tea leaves. Cut the melon into large slivers, put them in the infusion, stir lightly, and place the container in the fridge for several hours. 3. Remove the melon slivers,

lightly crush the peppermint leaves and add them to the liquid. Let them steep for a few minutes, then remove the leaves and stir in the honey or sugar, if using. 4. To serve, strain the

liquid into glasses, place a clean peppermint stem in each glass and add a cocktail stick of melon balls rolled in chopped mint.

ISSUE 121 AUGUST 2019

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T&F REFRESHERS

Fig and pistachio ice cream layer cake We made this with the last of the early summer figs but you can use the mid-summer figs which are coming into season just now. To assemble the cake, you will need a cake tin with a removable base. If you’re pressed for time, use ready-made plain vanilla ice cream and start from step 2.

PREPARATION

SERVES

HOUR, EXCLUDING FREEZING TIME

PERSONS

FOR THE ICE CREAM

1 can evaporated milk 300ml fresh cream 3 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons caster sugar 2 tablespoons gelatin powder a few drops of vanilla essence 3 large soft figs (or 6 medium-sized), peeled and very finely chopped 2 tablespoons lemon zest, freshly grated juice of ½ a lemon FOR THE CAKE BASE

1 egg, weighed an equal weight of each of the following: self-raising flour butter caster sugar 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest TO ASSEMBLE THE CAKE

4 medium figs of equal size, washed and unpeeled 2 handfuls pistachios 1 shot limoncello TO GARNISH

strips of lemon zest

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REFRESHERS T&F

1. First, make the ice cream. Dissolve

the gelatin in a little bit of water. Whip the milk, cream, sugar, and honey well in a bowl. Add the dissolved gelatin and stir it in. 2. Pour a third of the mixture into a

separate bowl. Add the lemon juice and zest to the first bowl and stir. Add the figs to the second bowl and stir. Put both bowls in the freezer for an hour, then stir both mixtures quickly with a fork and return the bowls to the freezer immediately. Repeat this several times over a few hours until the ice cream firms up without hardening. 3. Meanwhile, bake the cake base. Weigh

the egg and measure out an equal weight of each of the other ingredients. Beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, add the egg and beat again. Then add the flour and fold it in. 4. Pour the cake batter into a cake tin

lined with non-stick paper and bake at 160Â°C until done (about 15 minutes). Let the cake cool in the tin, then turn it out to cool completely on a wire rack. Once it has cooled properly, trim 3-4mm off the circumference of the cake. 5. To assemble the ice-cream cake,

line the base of a clean cake tin with non-stick paper. Put in the cake, prick it lightly all over with a fork and drench it in limoncello. 6. Wash and cut the figs into slices

3-4mm thick and place the slices around the inside of the cake tin. Scoop in the lemon ice cream and spread it out into a thick layer. Scatter in a handful of pistachio nuts. Top this with a layer of fig ice cream and finish off with a layer of pistachio nuts. Put the cake tin in the freezer for at least a couple of hours for the cake layers to firm up. 7. Remove the cake from the tin,

place it on a plate and allow it to stand for a minute or two before slicing it up for serving.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Black tea with lime, Moroccan mint and honey The tartness of black tea with lime is an acquired taste. Stir in some wild thyme honey to soften the sharpness.

PREPARATION

SERVES

2-3

MINUTES, EXCLUDING COOLING TIME

PERSONS

FOR THE INFUSION

a handful of Moroccan mint leaves, washed 2 teaspoons black tea leaves two tablespoons wild thyme honey 1 lime, sliced thinly 500ml water TO SERVE

lime wedges

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1. Boil the water

and pour it over the tea leaves in a heat-proof jug or pot. Allow the tea to infuse for 3-5 minutes then strain the liquid to remove the leaves.

2. Lightly crush

3. Stir in the wild

4. Remove the

the mint leaves and add them to the infusion stirring lightly to mix them in. Let the leaves infuse for approximately 5 minutes, then remove them using a fork or by straining the liquid.

thyme honey until it dissolves, then add the lime slices. Put the container in the fridge for a few hours.

lime slices from the infusion, pour the liquid into individual glasses and serve with lime wedges and extra mint on the side.

DE MONDION

PALAZZO DE PIRO

DE MONDION

T&F PREMJU E L GALIZIA

PREMJU EMANUELE LUIGI GALIZIA The Premju Emanuele Luigi Galizia was launched by the Kamra tal-Periti, Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s professional association for architects and civil engineers, in 2018 to support, encourage and promote excellence and quality design in the built environment. The awards aim to promote quality and sustainability in architecture and to develop public awareness and understanding of the importance and value of good design. The finals of the 2019 edition of the awards were held on 25th July, marking the 100th anniversary of the coming into force of the Architectsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Ordinance on the 25th July 1919. This year, the Council honoured Emanuele Luigi Galizia with a posthumous Lifetime Achievement Award.

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PREMJU E L GALIZIA T&F

EMANUELE LUIGI GALIZIA Emanuele Luigi Galizia was one of the most prolific and important architects in nineteenth-century Malta. Married to Victoria Vella*, whose father, Giovanni, and brother, Francesco, were the equivalent of today’s cabinet ministers, the couple had five children, two of whom eventually followed in their father’s footsteps. The older son, James, became Superintendent of Public Works. His brother Godwin, an architect, is known for his neo-Romanesque architecture including the Church of St Gregory in Sliema. Emanuele Galizia studied architecture and civil engineering in Malta and entered government service himself in 1846, first serving as apprentice to William Lamb Arrowsmith, and eventually rising to Superintendent of Public Works. He was elected Member of the Institution of Civil Engineers in 1886 and became a Fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects two years later. That same year, he was sent on a tour of Europe, where he broadened his knowledge of Gothic Revival architecture. During his 42-year long career, Emanuele Galizia designed and realized several important projects, many of which are still standing today despite the ravages of time and encroachment. Among them were the marbling of the Parlance Corridors in the Grandmaster’s Palace, the doubling of the size of Valletta’s Victoria Gate on the Grand Harbour and of St Anne’s Gate, which was later demolished to make way for the predecessor of today’s main gate, and the water supply and road infrastructure that eased life in various parts of the islands.

During his 42-year long career, Emanuele Galizia designed and realized several important projects, many of which are still standing today despite the ravages of time and encroachment. His talent was versatile, allowing him to turn his hand to whatever style was required.

However, it is for his Neo-Gothic architecture that Emanuele Galizia is best known, particularly the Addolorata Cemetery and its approaches which are now under siege by relentless roadbuilding in the name of progress. His talent was versatile, allowing him to turn his hand to whatever style was required, such as the French Neo-Classical style of the Istituto Tecnico Bugeja, the Moghul and Moorish style of Villa Alhambra, his summer residence in Sliema, and of the

Ottoman Military Cemetery in Marsa. He was made a knight of the Order of St. Gregory the Great by Pope Leo XIII, and was admitted to the Order of the Medjidie by the Ottoman Sultan Abdülaziz during his visit to Malta in 1867, in recognition of his work on the Turkish Military Cemetery. *Victoria’s brother’s great-great grand daughter, Daphne, founded and edited Taste&Flair.

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2019 AWARDS

We would have loved to include more of the 2019 award submissions but we were already wrapping up this issue of Taste&Flair by the time the competition finals were concluded. Look out for more of Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best design projects in the coming issue of Taste&Flair

Presidentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Award for Best Overall Project International Project Award REEF GUEST HOUSE, BAHRAIN Design: Chris Briffa Architects Photo: Aldo Amoretti

four-year collaboration between Bahraini architect Jalal Al Najjar and Chris Briffa Architects , the project went through many design challenges. Structural limitations of building on a man-made island on sea level, together with extreme local weather conditions were constant trials during the design process. Orienting all rooms towards the sea meant plenty of ventilation from prevailing NW winds, but also extreme exposure to wind-driven sand and salts. A high level of detailing together with the appropriate choice of materials in the external shell and its apertures accompanied all building stages.

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Eames Fiberglass Chairs, Charles & Ray Eames, 1950

www.vitra.com/efc

The Fiberglass Chairs were launched on the market in 1950, introducing a new furniture typology that has since become widespread: the multifunctional chair whose shell can be combined with a variety of bases to serve different purposes

Purchase 4x Eames Fiberglass Chairs and receive an Eames House Bird as a gift!. Offer ends 30th September 2019. “Sponsor of E.L. Galizia Architects’ Awards 2019”. Available at your exclusive, local Vitra dealer: Vivendo Group, Mdina Road, Qormi, QRM9011 · 2260 7383 · fpuglisi@vivendo.mt · vitra.vivendo.com.mt

Vitra_T&F_Jul19.indd 1

25/07/2019 12:16

T&F PREMJU E L GALIZIA

Quality Architecture Award LIMBER LATTICE Design: MJMDA Architects Photo: MJMDA

he work of architecture realised has been designed integrally and stems from a client brief, integrating structure with architecture & interiors as well as building services and environmental efficiency in a dexterous swipe. Strung between two large planes to the left and right of the site a grid was conceived to optimize each aspect of the building. The grid is literally stretched between the two opposing walls to create spaces and volumes that inspire the greatness and confidence required. At the heart of this latticework lies a functional sculpture that has its seeds in the pharaoh hound, a symbol synonymous for the owners to the nature of the business.

Interior Spaces Award QORMI INDUSTRIAL MINIMALIST HOME Design: MMK Studio Photo: MMK Studio

he property is well hidden with the urban conservation area of Qormi with an unassuming entrance in a deadend alley. The original structure is over 100 years old and still very well preserved, but the property had been neglected for years. The design project included the preservation of the old structures and the construction of an extension in reinforced concrete. The project brief included maximizing the indoor-outdoor flow for the two wild cats which share their ownersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; home.

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Interior Spaces Special Commendation 5-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN VALLETTA Design: Forward Architects Photo: Jeremy Debattista

orward Architectsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; design for a 5-star boutique hotel in Valletta was featured in Taste&Flairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s July issue. The hotel interior includes a mix of skilled artisan work, including composite marble flooring, intricate wood paneling, and hand-crafted brass inlays. Similar attention to craftsmanship and design detail informed the choice of proprietary and customised furniture selection and design. The spaces are contemporary without falling victim to design trend. The mix of styles is not an end in itself but a timeless means to a more important goal: visitor experience.

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T&F PREMJU E L GALIZIA

Emerging Practice Special Commendation Design: Archi+ Photo: Therese Debono

e focus on delivering projects that will stand the test of time. Archi+ puts its quest for innovation to work for its clients by prioritising honest and open dialogue and by offering an environment where creativity of talented architects can flourish.

Emerging Practice Award shortlist Design: Atelier Maison Photo: Alexandra Pace

he mantra of Atelier Maison, is that the design and way a space works must revolve around the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lifestyle or requirements â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ending up with a very client specific brief and therefore a tailor made experience of space. All projects designed by Atelier Maison, not only address how the space will work in the present, but also how it will evolve in the future. It is all about innovative ideas in the form of custom designs and good detailing, while looking at the architecture holistically. Elements such as planes, volumes and light shafts are adopted to create spaces to their maximum potential and spatial capability.

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t Timber cladding shields the entrance to the house, a smooth contrast to the texture of the stone walls.

p Traditional materials, contemporary lines and endemic planting define a design that takes its cues from its context.

HOUSE59 Design: CVC architecture studio Photography: Sean Mallia

FIRST EDITION WINNER President’s Award Quality in Architecture Award

he President’s Award honours the project that best represents the values of studied and researched design incorporating the project’s context, sustainability and respect for the environment. CVC’s orientation and position of the new building, use of recycled building materials, built-in rain water storage, integrated passive cooling systems, and innovative design solutions for internal services and garage spaces earned the first ever edition of the award.

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T&F PREMJU E L GALIZIA

t The smooth white of the custom-built staircase contrasts with the recycled natural stone. Stair treads are in timber. u The raised pool area takes in longdistance views.

House 59

is a family home in a designated villa area of low-density building characterised by the use of traditional stone, in a Mediterranean setting of natural vegetation and fields bounded by rubble walls. Fusing traditional materials with contemporary lines, the home is designed to respect the lie of the land and the natural tones of the surrounding landscape. The basic form of the building is defined by its vertical planes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; long, solid walls of recycled natural stone designed to shield its occupantsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; privacy from neighbouring construction as yet unbuilt â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the horizontal plane of the cantilevered roof. The entrances to the house are hidden behind timber cladding, a smooth contrast to the rough texture of the recycled stone wall. Endemic plants and trees planted around the house complete the natural palette. The building sits comfortably in its context, its varying planes creating a shifting visual narrative as one approaches the building along the road.

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PREMJU E L GALIZIA T&F

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T&F PREMJU E L GALIZIA

nternally, the sleeping quarters are in a separate, private wing of the house while the living spaces are designed to facilitate flow and visual connections between the different areas. A gym, indoor pool, and other recreational spaces are set on the lower level. The outdoor pool area was raised, affording long-distance views which would otherwise have been missed. Floor-to-ceiling glazing divides the interior living space from the pool deck. In fine weather, the doors can be folded back behind their timber screens, dissolving the division between indoors and outdoors. n

p The house sits naturally in its context, following the lie of the land.

t The communal areas of the house flow seamlessly together. Services are neatly masked by innovative design solutions.

100

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q The staircase was conceived an element caught in a spider's web hung from the existing and new structures.

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FARSONS

CORPORATE

OFFICE EXTENSION Architectural and Structural design: TBA Periti Photography: Sean Mallia for TBA Periti

FIRST EDITION WINNER Civil Engineering Excellence Award

xtension projects pose particularly challenging architectural and structural engineering problems. The project was completed in under three years, including 12 months for the detailed design and the permit process, and a further 18-22 months to commission and install the customised structures, and to construct and finish the additional floors. The solution to the design challenges involved the construction of a light-weight structure for a two-floor office extension based on structural steel work and external cladding. What began as a constraint was transformed into a design philosophy, creating an aesthetic that reflects the projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s industrial context. q The Carrara marble cladding supplied by Halmann Vella is a material link to the memory of the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old entrance. Photo: Frederick Muscat

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q The skylight on the upper level is designed in exposed, pre-cast concrete supplied by Ballut Blocks.

ntroducing daylight into the interior of the building was vital and, as the warehousing activities on the lower level could not be interrupted nor the existing roof slab pierced or strengthened, an internal vertical movement had to be created within the 1950sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Brewery building. The original concept developed into two flights of oval spiral steps, rising within a top-lit atrium, designed to make the walk up as comfortable and well-lit as possible. The idea for the oval-shaped staircase evolved from the original idea for a continuous loop, which was based on visualising the staircase as a spiral flow up the atrium. The structure clearly needed to be based on steel, so that it was not too heavy. The beauty of the staircase had to lie in the lightness of the supporting structure, but that raised the question of how to secure it in place.

p The project's constraint became its design philosophy creating the project's industrial aesthetic which fits its context.

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Material: Infinity Calacatta Oro Countertop and Silestone Merope Backsplash.

www.halmannvella.com

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t The idea for the oval-shaped staircase evolved from the original idea for a continuous loop flowing upwards through the atrium.

he designers’ solution was to suspend the staircase from the existing and surrounding structures by a web of stainless steel proprietary cables. As the idea evolved, the structural detailing of the elements and materials fell into place almost effortlessly. The continuous tube that serves as a handrail is supported by a limited number of vertical elements and a perforated stainless steel curved mesh, a structure that is both materially and visually light. The finishing touches include bianco carrara marble, a material link to the memory of the old entrance to the Farsons offices. Each staircase (there are two, one above the other), is completely custommade and manufactured in Italy in three parts, the flights manufactured separately from the large curved central landing. The individual parts were assembled very carefully on site – the tolerance limit was millimetrical, since the levels of the steps had to coincide with the finished floor level – and were then welded on site by specialist welders. n

t The staircases were completely custommade and then assembled on site. The railing is designed to be materially and visually light.

t Two flights of oval spiral steps rise within the top-lit atrium.

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The top floor was integrated with the façades below by extending the stair towers and creating a copper cornice. Photo: Luis Rodríguez López

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PREMJU E L GALIZIA T&F

PHOENICIA

HOTEL Design: Architecture Project

FIRST EDITION WINNER Urban Regeneration Award

he Phoenicia Hotel, the first five-star hotel to be built in Malta, is located just outside Valletta. The increasing number of people visiting the capital city and the expected growth in demand for hotel accommodation, are factored into the redesign of the hotel grounds which span half the width of the peninsula on which Valletta is built. In recent years, the extensive grounds had become underused and derelict. The aim of the renovation project was to restore the hotel to its former glory, reshaping the existing premises into a building which is both reminiscent of its history and relevant to today.

The new infinity pool area next to the protected glacis restores the legibility of its original architecture. Photo: James McDonald

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he masterplan for rehabilitation and renewal covers 8 areas of interest in 3 phases. Phase 1 focused on the scheduled hotel building, originally designed by Lt. Col. W. B. Binnie, as well as the redevelopment of the pool area at the foot of Valletta’s fortified walls. The aim was to create a contemporary experience that paid tribute to both the Art Deco building as well as its siting within Valletta’s 16th century land-front fortifications. The concept combines the old-world grandeur of the hotel with contemporary design, in line with the Urban Plan of Valletta which covers the span from Valletta City Gate to Floriana’s former parade ground across the road from the hotel’s side entrance. The top floor, a 1990s extension not in line with the original 1930s architecture, was integrated with the façades below by extending the stair towers and creating a copper cornice at the uppermost level. The 90s’ additions were further integrated with the hotel’s façades by replacing the frontispieces and roof structures with new sky lounges.

p The Phoenicia Hotel in the 1940s, with its cane blinds used on the exterior to keep out the sun, and its beautifully iconic colonial veranda.

Photo: Johannes Buch

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he hotel’s gardens contain historic structures belonging to the outer fortifications of the city. Adjacent to the protected glacis, the hotel’s new pool area restores the legibility of its original architecture while drawing the curtain back on the greater city context. The swimming pool’s infinity edge blurs the boundary between the pool itself and the sea beyond. New structures are invisible, enhancing the massive scale of the adjacent bastions. The pool is built out of pigmented concrete. The deck areas are paved with pigmented cement and travertine, the latter material having been extensively used in the original 1930s project. New materials such as copper alloy and glass are used as cladding for the pool bar to visually connect this area of the hotel with the main building. Vegetation in planters softens the landscape.

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p The deck areas are paved with pigmented cement and with travertine, which was used extensively in the original 1930s building. Photo: AP Valletta u View of the pool and the surroundings Photo: AP Valletta

PREMJU E L GALIZIA T&F

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he restoration of the façades was carried out using Maltese limestone (globigerina), the same material used in the original project. Wherever possible, stones were not replaced and cleaned gently with de-ionised water and poultices to retain and preserve the original patina. All new extensions were constructed with sufficient structural sensitivity to preserve the original building fabric, using Maltese limestone and traditional construction methodologies. A copper alloy cornice on the uppermost level provides a much-needed ending to the traditional composition. n

p The top floor was integrated with the façades below by extending the stair towers and creating a copper cornice. Photo: Johannes Buch u New structures are invisible, enhancing the massive scale of the historic fortified walls. Photo: AP Valletta

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T&F GARDEN HOUSE

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GARDEN HOUSE T&F

LIVING WITH

NATURE

The basic brief for this design project was to preserve the existing trees and other vegetation on the site. The result is beautiful views from every room and a welcoming and serene atmosphere. Architecture project and building by ÁBATON (www.abaton.es) Interior Design Project by ÁBATON and BATAVIA (batavia.es) Photography by Belén Imaz

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he starting point for this project was to preserve the siteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s existing vegetation. All the built elements, even the arrangement of the access routes to the house, were designed to preserve the existing holm oaks and the other vegetation on the site, linking it to the house. The design strategy was to open the house southwards to increase the amount of natural light entering the building and to make the most of the views of the garden.

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p Preserving onsite vegetation was part of the basic brief. A line of Cypress was added, creating a path to the entrance.

q The house design offers a sequence of indoor-outdoor spaces which flow naturally into each other.

T&F GARDEN HOUSE

he design of the house itself follows from the intersection of two exposed structural concrete walls cast in timberboard formwork. One wall leads to the entrance, generating an exterior path between the wall itself and a line of cypress trees, while the other wall divides the kitchen and living areas and also extends outdoors into the open porch. The design of the dwelling follows from these two walls by adding different volumes which generate an internal patio, a central feature of the house. The design provides a sequence of indoor-outdoor spaces that flow from the porch to the living room, patio to the dining room, and onwards to the outside.

u Preserving the mature trees gave this bedroom its peaceful treetop view.

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GARDEN HOUSE T&F

t The house centres on an internal patio. through which the sequence of indoor spaces flows onto the outside.

q Large plate glass windows maximise the natural light and offer views of the surrounding greenery.

he construction used is based on a solid timber structure assembled with 12cm-thick structural walls which have the advantage of not requiring any columns or any other visual interruptions. The floor slabs allow broad spans using little thickness and do not interfere with the architectural design. These boards are prefabricated, customised units. The pieces are numbered to facilitate assembly on site while achieving very high energy efficiency levels for the dwelling. The exposed structural timber in some internal areas also adds a feeling of warmth and comfort.

t The living area is separated from the dining area by the central patio. On fine days, the apertures can be left open with movement flowing seamlessly from the garden on one side of the house to the outdoor space on the other.

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he living room, dining room, office, gym, study, library, kitchen, TV room and guest bedroom are all on the ground floor. The first floor has two distinct areas which are joined by a corridor over the patio. One area includes the master bedroom and the other area has three further bedrooms. The roof over the living room on this floor is used as an external patio with a porch. The garage, boiler room, and cinema are located in the basement. The result of integrating the natural environment into the design is a very homely dwelling, open, cosy and in constant dialogue with nature, with warm and welcoming spaces on a very human scale, despite its 750m2 surface area. n

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t The bedroom includes a window seat, perfect for curling up in with a book or just for some quiet time. { The dining area is flooded with natural light. u The internal patio is filled with greenery and brings natural light into the indoor spaces.

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VALID DATES

LEE M CARDHOLDER

Credit

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VALID THRU

06/18 06/18

LEE M CARDHOLDER

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CARDHOLDER NAME

Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c. ... always in your interest! www.lombardmalta.com

Head Office: 67 Republic Street Valletta Malta

T&F TRENDS

4 2

1. Made exclusively from Malta-grown Vermentino grapes, Meridiana’s ASTARTE DOK has a straw yellow colour and is characterised by intense aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with hints of flowers. The palate is fresh with a pleasantly acidic finish. Distributed by S Rausi Trading Ltd, Gzira Tel: 2133 0447, 7909 3197, info@srausi.com www.meridiana.com.mt 2. The Phoenix Restaurant, inspired by the grand cafés of Europe, is known for its elegant charm. The carefully crafted menu uses only the finest ingredients thus putting the joy of food at the centre of any dining experience. Here one can bask in the sun out on the Terrace with its sweeping garden views all the way to Marsamxett Harbour. Open for lunch and dinner, The Phoenix Restaurant eagerly awaits your visit. The Phoenicia Malta. Tel: 2122 5241, dine@phoeniciamalta.com, www.phoeniciamalta.com 3. STREET KITCHEN. Looking for inspiration in the kitchen? Our all natural, easy-to-use from scratch kits gather the essence of real street cuisines, allowing you to create authentic dishes in three simple steps. All you need to do, is add meat and vegetables. Attard & Co. Food Ltd, Tel: 2123 7555. facebook.com/attardcofood

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4. Introducing Mighty Nuts, a new range of snacks, from the healthiest to ones which keep you craving for more. The Mighty Nuts range consists of the most delicious nuts and snacks one can find in Malta. This energetic brand with its colourful and modern packaging will give you all the might you need. Each snack is available in two sizes, for single snacking or to share. The bigger packets are also resealable to help maintain product freshness and to be enjoyed on multiple occasions. Collect packaging, get rewarded with great gifts and we will sort out the recycling for you. www.fb.com/lambbrand

6. The Conference Centre at Urban Valley Resort & Spa is the perfect balance of beauty and versatility. The threestorey building features a foyer, reception area and a multipurpose conference room on the ground floor and a large conference area seating 210 delegates on the first floor. Create functional spaces with the five break-out rooms and adjustable soundproof panels and raised flooring. State of the art audio-visual facilities, high-speed internet connection and on-site parking provide a complete hassle-free experience. Opening September 2019. Urban Valley Resort & Spa, Triq Wied Ghollieqa, Kappara, SGN4437 Malta. www.urbanvalleyresort.com T: +356 2138 5926, E: events@urbanvalleyresort.com

5. Elba Restaurant is located within the recently renovated 18th Century building situated on the Bahar ic-Caghaq shore line and serves a fine selection of homemade pastas and pizzas, fresh local fish and quality meats. This beautiful and imposing building currently also houses Barlatte Gelato and Cafe serving a wide selection of ice cream and cakes. Elba is open everyday for lunch and dinner. For bookings phone 2138 1639 or 9949 9960.

7. BRONZE FOR DELICATA’S MEDINA VERMENTINO ZIBIBBO. Delicata’s 2018 Medina Vermentino Zibibbo DOK Malta has landed a bronze medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Top wine experts of the world characterised Delicata’s dry white wine as having “a fresh, aromatic nose of white flesh fruit and white flowers with good fruit intensity on the palate and persistent length”. Delicata is the only Maltese winery to win an award at the 2019 DWWA in London. 8. Borgo Molino - Glera Extra Dry is a sparkling wine of refined elegance, with a brilliant straw yellow colour, a fine and persistent perlage, and a delicate and pleasant fragrance. It has a pleasantly structured, balanced and fresh fragrant taste with good aromatic persistence. Excellent if drunk on its own, as an aperitif wine. Serve at 6-8°C. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt www.viniecapricci.com

DRINK T&F

ABSINTHE A

9. 35°South takes its name from the geographical coordinates where San Pedro’s main vineyards in Chile are located, at the San Pedro Molina Estate, deep in the Curicó Valley. 35°South Sauvignon Blanc: Intense and elegant wine, where aromas of tropical fruit and grapefruit stand out, combined with other fresh aromas. Ideal with seafood and salads, or to be enjoyed by itself. 35°South Merlot: A deep wine, with great smoothness and a long finish. Ideal for accompanying pastas and pizzas, as well as Serrano ham and mature cheeses. Trade Enquiries: Attard & Co, Tel: 2123 7555, facebook. com/attardcowines, www.attardcowines.com

bsinthe, also known as la fée verte (“the green fairy”), was first produced by Madame Henroid in the Swiss town of Couvet near Neuchatel in the late 18 th century. It was supposed to boost creativity, making it very popular with poets and artists. By the 1860s l’heure verte was an accepted part of the day’s ritual. Eventually banned in the United States and much of Europe for most of the twentieth century, absinthe was revived in the 1990s following much research and updated food and beverage laws. Absinthe is seen as a member of the anise family, but it is wormwood which gives it its unique qualities. I ts main botanicals are grande wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), green anise and Florence fennel. Many other herbs may be used such as petite wormwood (Artemisia pontica), hyssop, melissa, star anise, angelica, sweet flag, dittany, coriander, veronica, juniper and nutmeg. Wormwood adds a musky floral note, as well as contributing a bitter quality to the flavour. Absinthe’s jade colour is provided by petite wormwood, hyssop and/or Melissa. The traditional way of serving absinthe is to place a sugar cube on the top of a specially designed slotted spoon, then placing this on a glass of absinthe. Iced water is then dripped over the sugar cube with the water slowly and evenly displaced into the absinthe. A slight variation is the “Bohemian method” where the sugar cube is pre-soaked in alcohol and set alight, then the sugar dropped in the alcohol and finally a shot glass of water added to douse the flames. However, absinthe lovers claim this method destroys the flavours. To tell whether an absinthe is a classic or an imitation, add water to it. Only a classic well-made absinthe will turn cloudy when water is added.

10. Offering a truly unique Maltese culinary experience in the heart of Mosta, Ta’ Marija Restaurant encourages you to savour their creative Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine. With over 50 years of experience, the familyrun restaurant offers an elegant, warm and informal ambience and a quality friendly service. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner, with Maltese themed nights every Wednesday and Friday (complete with folk dancers, mandolins and guitars) and an all-inclusive buffet extravaganza on Saturdays nights and Sunday lunches for only €30, with regular live shows and entertainment. You can also dine al fresco thanks to the outdoor dining area with stunning views of the Mosta church. Find out more at www.tamarija.com For bookings call 21434444.

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p Along with other great kitchen and tableware you’ll find a range of fantastic mugs at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique, from the personal to the stylish. HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique. Unique gift ideas for him, for her… or for yourself. Visit HENRI in Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Tel: 2010 6306, facebook/henrimalta p Mdina Glass produces a wide variety of handmade glass sculptures that will add style and fun to your surroundings, like this octopus, a product of true craftsmanship. For more information, call +356 2141 5786, email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt or find Mdina Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass. Shop online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt p Novamobili wardrobes are functional, modular and fitted with a whole host of accessories. Flush-closing sliding or hinged door wardrobes: a comprehensive system that’s all about flexibility and rationality designed to define and organise the space, with an extensive selection of finishes, handles and internal accessories for customising your look. A large selection of Novamobili wardrobes is available from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149

p Anker has made its name on affordable, high-end, dependable products. Anker Soundcore Liberty Air includes two built-in microphones with uplink noise cancellation to boost clarity by recognising your voice and filtering out ambient noises to ensure your sound is crystal-clear even in noisy spaces. Every detail of the music, from the deepest bass, to the brightest mids and lush treble is delivered with extraordinary clarity and no distortion. Anker Liberty Air earphones are water resistant to a rating of IPX 5 – that means they’ll be protected from damage if you take them on a sweaty jog. The Anker Liberty Air earphones are an excellent choice for people who want all of the features of a good quality pair of soundbuds with a pleasant price tag. Available from myshopmalta.com and from leading outlets. p The SOIRÉE by Delta Light takes its inspiration from many angles. From the play of light and shadow in architecture, to natural light effects, the shape of everyday objects and sculptural art. The result is a nest of light, made of circles or rectangles, both structural and decorative, generating a seductive luminous effect. Even when not turned on, they bring texture and character to rooms, defining different areas with small and large contemporary pendants. Available at Elektra Ltd, Qormi. t Neutra 6.0 unleashed designs. Fine porcelain stoneware becomes a true element of design, walls become enormous paintings where the colour is understood as the main element of expression. The collection is available in 8 colour schemes recommended both for floor and wall applications. The Neutra 6.0 collection is available from Satariano, Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149

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p Create a wonderful ambience with stunning handmade lanterns by Mdina Glass. Encased in a metal structure and finished off with a high grade leather handle, the range of lanterns comes in a variety of sizes and colours. For more information, call: +356 2141 5786, email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt or find Mdina Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass. Shop online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt

PROMOTION T&F

Aperol raises a toast to 100 years of joy Aperol, the iconic Italian bittersweet aperitif, celebrates its 100th birthday in true Italian style this year. Malta has been joining in the centenary celebrations with a series of activities aimed to spark joyful connections between new and old friends.

opular radio hosts Nate, Frank and Rossi from Vibe FM once again front the Aperol Spritz campaign “Together We Joy”, raising smiles and laughs with their own inimitable humorous style. Aperol also coloured Hugo’s Lounge orange with its Mix ’n’ Mingle Happy Hour, while during the Malta Trade Fair 2019 at MFCC visitors could stop by the Aperol stand for a refreshing break. Befitting Malta’s capital, Valletta was the centre stage for an Aperol summer get-together at Caffe Cordina in Pjazza Regina on 26th July, while brightly coloured Aperol-branded bicycles were set to bring fun and enjoyment to village squares and beaches using universal languages such as art, music and Aperol Spritz, bringing people together wherever they are. To mark the momentous year, Aperol launched limitededition labels for its bottles. Each one is truly unique, thanks to an advanced chromatic formula that recreated infinite single variations on an iconic design by Italian artist Lorenzo Mattotti (1990) portraying a young couple dancing holding an Aperol bottle and two glasses full of the unmistakable drink. Limitededition bottles have been available for sale from Farsonsdirect and selected outlets since July. Launched in 1919 at the Padua International Fair, Aperol was created by the Barbieri brothers, Luigi and Silvio, who coined the name “Aperol”, having taken inspiration from the French term for apéritif, “Apéro”. Made with citrus oil infused with herbs and roots to create a perfectly balanced combination, the original recipe has remained unchanged and is a secret to this day. Aperol Spritz was traditionally consumed all over Veneto, in Venetian bars called the bàcari, which epitomise the Venetian way of life, promoting the culture of staying together, enjoying cichetti, traditional bite-sized snacks, and enjoying an aperitif moment. For more information, visit the Aperol Spritz Malta Facebook page facebook.com/aperolspritz.mlt or find Aperol Spritz Malta on Instagram instagram.com/stories/aperol_spritz_mt. Watch the Aperol Spritz Summer 2019 commercial for Malta featuring Nate, Frank & Rossi on youtube.com/watch?v=NP2ZDM2PSKI Aperol is marketed and distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Ltd. Trade Enquiries: 2381 4400.

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“My father’s true invention was the Bellini, the drink in which the delicate flavour of fruit softens the tartness of prosecco and that in July, at the time of year when peaches are at their best, acquires a beautiful pink colour.” Arrigo Cipriani, Harry’s Bar, Venice

Bellinis at Harry’s Bar T

o the Cipriani family who own it, the now legendary Harry’s Bar was always simply “il bar”, a family-run concern that provided the family’s income and sustenance. Giuseppe Cipriani, its founder, had emigrated to Germany from Verona with his family and returned to Italy when the first world war broke out. He began work as a waiter and rose to become the barman at Venice’s Hotel Europa in 1928. His sympathy for a young American traveller and frequent visitor to the hotel bar was a turning point. Harry Pickering was in Italy accompanying his aunt, a wealthy but frugal woman who had little patience for her nephew’s behaviour. Having grown tired of his reckless spending and drinking adventures, she abandoned him in Venice without a penny and returned to America. Dissolute and unable to afford a drink, Pickering turned up at the hotel bar as usual. His melancholic look prompted Giuseppe Cipriani to ask what was wrong. Feeling sympathy for the young man, he offered to help him out with a 10,000 lire loan. Two years later, Pickering returned to Venice and immediately called on Giuseppe Cipriani to settle his debt, surprising him with an additional gift of 30,000 lire “to open a bar”. They agreed that Harry’s would be a good name for a bar and so it was. Harry’s Bar in Venice is where Giuseppe Cipriani created his now world-famous Bellini cocktail. For years, it was only available during the peach season but it is now served at any time you can find the white peaches that give it its particular character. As Arrigo Cipriani says, “the peaches must be white, never yellow, and better if they are small with a pinkish skin.” The classic Bellini is made with Conegliano prosecco, but a good sparkling wine can do instead, preferably one produced by the méthode champenoise. The fruit should thoroughly washed but left unpeeled and macerated in a closed blender to avoid the juice coming into contact with air.

The next issue of will be out on 1st September 2019 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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How to make a Bellini

For every person, you will need a ripe peach, halved and with the stone removed. Chill your champagne flutes first. Use champagne, prosecco or good sparkling wine or Cava, thoroughly chilled. Blend the peach flesh until you have a very smooth purée. Spoon it into the glasses and top up with sparkling wine or Champagne, stirring as you pour. The perfect proportions are one part peach to two parts wine. Serve this as an aperitif. Bellini variations The Tiziano is a Bellini made with grape juice (uva fragola). Mimosa’s ingredients are mandarin and orange. The Rossini is made with strawberry juice.

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt

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All pictures Allshown pictures areshown for illustration are for illustration purpose only. purpose Actual only. products Actual may products vary. © may 2019 vary. McDonald’s © 2019 McDonald’s Corporation. Corporation.