TASTE&FLAIR SEPTEMBER 2021 ISSUE No 140 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 140 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

SEPTEMBER 2021

Feed your imagination Food from Morocco • Scrumptious brunch • Seafood & wine Gardening • City living • Contemporary architecture

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL Michael Diacono’s Oranges, Cinnamon and Rose Water See feature starting on page 9. Photograph: Brian Grech

Welcome F

ood is one of life’s simple pleasures. Thinking about what to prepare and serve is equally gratifying, particularly with Taste&Flair in hand. Bread for brunch? Claire Borg turns a simple staple into a scrumptious feast of taste, colour and texture with seasonal fruit, cheese, home grown vegetables, and an array of flavourful spreads. In Moroccan Flair, Michael Diacono serves up spicy and aromatic dishes from one of his favourite cuisines. Ideas for uncomplicated and quick-toprepare meals are always welcome, particularly on busy days. See Seafood & Salad for a few answers to the daily question, “what shall I cook today?” The impact of shifting weather patterns and rising temperatures on nature has raised concerns about food security and agriculture. The impact on viticulture and the winemaking industry is no less concerning. In Beating the Heat Andrew Azzopardi looks at how winemakers are adapting and producing quality wines in the face of changes. Food is the reason this magazine began and it remains at the heart of what we do, along with how homes are shaped by architects and designers to fit the lives inside them. Older buildings designed to fit contemporary lifestyles is the theme of our interior and architecture features this month: a traditional townhouse and a centuries-old house in Valletta. Enjoy this issue. We’ll be back in October. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Canestra di frutta, Caravaggio, c. 1597. The oil painting is part of the collection of Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

Follow Taste&Flair on

Quality in everyday life

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara

T. 2546 4000 info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

T&F CONTENTS

CONTENTS

p28

Moroccan Flair Michael Diacono’s fragrant and fiery dishes

Wine in a changing climate Andrew Azzopardi on Maltese winemaking

Bread at brunchtime Claire Borg’s scrumptious recipes

Seafood and salad The ultimate convenience foods

p52

Hover House Transforming a traditional townhouse

The Chaste Tree Rare in the wild, easy to grow

City living A Valletta house, reinvented

p66 6

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

Culture diary Poussin and the Dance

CUISINE T&F

Moroccan

Flair

Morocco is blessed with natural beauty and a kitchen to match - fragrant, aromatic, fiery and colourful, yet subtle and delicate at the same time. Michael Diacono prepares a few recipes from one of his favourite cuisines. Food: Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, assisted by George Diacono Styling and photography: Brian Grech

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CUISINE

YOU WILL NEED

2 large aubergines 2 large beef tomatoes (tadam catt) 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped a good handful parsley, chopped a good handful fresh coriander, chopped salt to taste 2 teaspoons sweet paprika chilli, as much or as little as you like juice of ½ lemon 4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to its highest

setting. Wash the aubergines and place them on a non-stick baking sheet. Prick the aubergines a few times with a sharp knife as they might burst while cooking, if you do not do this.

2. Drizzle the aubergines with a small amount of extra-virgin olive oil and use your hands to massage them all over. Place the aubergines in the hot oven and let them bake for 30-45 minutes until they are charred on the outside but soft and mushy inside. Remove them from oven and set them aside to cool. 3. Meanwhile, blanch and peel the tomatoes, and chop them coarsely. 4. Place the extra-virgin olive oil into a large, deep frying pan and set it on the heat. Add the cumin seeds and stir fry them for a minute or two. Next, add the garlic and cook it for a further minute before tossing in the chopped tomatoes, parsley and coriander. Season with salt, paprika and chilli, if using. Cook the sauce down for 10 minutes. 5. Halve the cooled aubergines

and scoop out the flesh. Transfer this to the simmering sauce and stir it in well. Let the mixture cook to reduce and thicken slightly, then remove the pan from the heat. Add the lemon juice.

6. Served this at room temperature

with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil over the top.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CUISINE T&F

“Zaalouk”

This recipe is prepared using aubergines as a base. It may be served as a dip, normally scooped up using Moroccan khobz, or as a side dish to accompany grilled fish. It is ideal matched with our own lampuki, which are in season right now.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes wine recommendation: Fiano D’Avellino from Campania, Italy

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CUISINE

Harira

This is a rich and satisfying soup-cum-stew. It is perfect for serving as a one dish supper, followed by a fresh green salad. This recipe uses smen which is a slightly fermented salted butter made from goats’ milk. I used the old fashioned butir mielaħ as a substitute.

Serves 6 Preparation and cooking: ?? Wine recommendation: Light bodied French or New Zealand Pinot Noir

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CUISINE T&F

YOU WILL NEED

6 large beef tomatoes (tadam catt) 1 large onion 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 400g lamb shoulder, cut into 4cm chunks a few stalks of Maltese celery (karfus), chopped salt to taste 2cm piece fresh ginger, grated or finely chopped freshly milled black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 tablespoon thick tomato paste 1 tablespoon salted butter (butir mielaħ) 150g orange lentils 1 handful parsley, roughly chopped 1 handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped 1 tin chick peas, drained lemon wedges, to serve

1. Cut the tomatoes into chunks

and push them through a food processor. Set them aside. Peel the onion and chop it finely.

2. Put the extra-virgin olive oil into a large, heavy bottomed pot and heat it up. Fry the lamb meat in batches until they colour. 3. Return all the lamb to the pot and add the celery, puréed tomatoes and chopped onions. Stir and cook for 5 minutes. 4. Add the spices, tomato purée and salted butter. Season with salt and pepper. Mix well, then add 750ml water. Bring the mixture to the boil then pour in the lentils. Stir, reduce to a gentle simmer, cover the pan and let it cook for 45 minutes. 5. Add the chopped herbs and chick

peas. Check the seasoning and let the pot simmer for a further 15 minutes.

6. Serve this hot with lemon

wedges and warm flat breads.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CUISINE

LAMB

with sweet potatoes and dates

This is easy to prepare, yet exotic enough to serve to guests at a casual get together.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes Wine recommendation: Spanish Rioja Reserva or Gran Reserva

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

YOU WILL NEED

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, chopped 500g cubed lamb fillets, cut into 3cm pieces 300g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 teaspoon cinnamon powder Chilli - as much as you like salt and pepper 1 tablespoon thick tomato paste 50g dates with stones removed 1 handful of fresh coriander, chopped

1. Heat the oil in a large pot.

Add the chopped onion and lamb and stir fry quickly on high heat till browned.

2. Add the sweet potatoes and all the spices. Season and stir well, then pour in 425ml hot water and the tomato paste. 3. Bring the pot to the boil, cover it and let it simmer for 15 minutes. Next, add the dates and let the pot cook for a further 10 minutes. 4. Sprinkle with coriander just before serving, ideally on steamed cous cous.

THE JOY OF COOKING HAS NO LIMITS Neff FlexInduction hobs with TwistPad Fire have an illuminated control, allowing you to simply point and twist to activate your required cooking zones.

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara

T. 2546 4000 info@oxfordhouse.com.mt www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

T&F CUISINE

Fish tagine The tradtional Moroccan clay cooking dish with the conical lid is called a tagine and this gives its name to the many recipes prepared in it. Here, we prepare a chermoula, a spice mix used widely in Morocco. I also used filleted lampuki.

Serves 6 Preparation and cooking time: 120 minutes plus at least 2 hours for marinating Wine recommendation: Alsatian or German Riesling

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CUISINE T&F

FOR THE CHERMOULA

a good bunch of fresh coriander, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoons paprika (I used smoked paprika) salt 1 teaspoon grated ginger chilli 1 pinch of saffron threads 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil juice of ½ a lemon SEASONING

1 teaspoon grated ginger 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper ½ teaspoon turmeric TAGINE

1kg filleted and skinned lampuki, cut into big chunks 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, sliced thinly 2 large potatoes, cut into slices 1 large carrot, cut into sticks 2 tomatoes, sliced 2 sweet peppers, cut into thin slices 70g black or green olives 1 preserved lemon, cut into quarters, pith removed and discarded chilli

1. Make the chermoula by simply mixing all the

ingredients together in a bowl. Prepare the seasoning by mixing the ingredients together.

2. Place the fish into a glass dish and pour half the chermoula over. Use your hands to spread the mixture all over the fish, then cover the dish and refridgerate it for at least 2 hours. 3. Add the olive oil to the bottom of your tagine and spread out the sliced onion. Place the carrots and then the potatoes over the onion in layers and sprinkle with the seasoning. Arrange the sliced tomatoes over the seasoned vegetables then pour over the remaining chermoula. 4. Add the fish together with its marinade the add the sliced peppers, chilli, olives and preserved lemon. Add a little water (about ½ a glass), cover the dish with the tagine lid and place it on medium heat. 5. Let the tagine simmer gently for about 45 to

50 minutes until the vegetables are cooked.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CUISINE

Oranges, cinnamon & rose water This super fragrant dessert is such a simple way to end a heavy meal. Use only pure rose water for this. Just a few drops will do the trick.

Serves 4 Preparation time: 10 minute plus 1 hour resting Wine recommendation: Moscato d’Asti DOCG YOU WILL NEED

4 oranges, peeled, sliced and pips removed a few drops pure rose water 1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon a few pomegrante arils mint leaves to garnish

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

1. Place the orange slices onto a serving plate.

Sprinkle them with a few drops of rose water and dust with the cinnamon powder.

2. Cover the dish and leave it for 1 hour in the fridge. 3. Before serving, garnish the oranges with pomegranate arils and fresh mint leaves.

CUISINE T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CUISINE

Almond milk drink Served very well chilled, this is a refreshing sweet glass of goodness.

Serves 2 Preparation: 5 minutes plus 2 hours cooling time

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

YOU WILL NEED

60g peeled almonds 375ml cold, full fat milk 1 tablespoon pure honey 1 teaspoon pure orange blossom water ½ teaspoon cinnamon powder

1. Place all the ingredients into

a pot and heat it gently till it just about reaches a boil, then remove from the heat.

2. Strain the liquid into a jug and let it cool before placing it in the fridge for at least 2 hours. 3. Serve in tall glasses with lots of ice.

NEW ITEMS AVAILABLE

Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901

MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901

T&F WINE

BEATING THE HEAT

Winemaking is impacted by shifts in seasonal weather patterns and rising temperatures. Andrew Azzopardi spoke to Maltese winemakers to find out how they’re delivering quality despite the changes. 22

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

WINE T&F

f you were somewhat sceptical about climate change, I’m sure the blazing heat we endured last month made you think twice. Those two weeks in August weren’t far from what one would expect from a tropical, desert climate such as Dubai. In fact, two Maltese friends mine who have been living in Dubai for several years decided to visit Malta for a short visit in hope of a cooler summer. Oh boy, were they wrong. With the UV index shooting through the roof and temperatures climbing above 41°C, the heat was nothing short of blistering. I recall walking merely 50 metres to the car to go out for dinner, only to sit down feeling like I needed another cold shower to cool off. As I sat down with streams of sweat pouring down my forehead, I remembered the recently published “code red” report by the landmark Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. It was a scary thought. Yet, we are somewhat lucky. We can remain indoors under the cool waft of breeze, or by the pool drinking a refreshingly ice-cold rosé, waiting for the temperatures to cool down to more normal levels, but out there in the hot midday sun, water is drying up fast and the sun is scorching those grapes ripening on the vine. In our already naturally hot and dry summers, our ecosystem is put under extreme stress and that must mean our vines are suffering too. Farmers have been on the front line, and grape growers especially have been seeing and feeling these profound changes in weather patterns since the 1990s. In an already challenging climate with no really high-altitude areas, most

Maltese wine-makers have planted the heat-resistant, international grape varieties such a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sryrah and Chardonnay, carefully grafted onto selected droughtresistant rootstocks. The naturally heat-resistant indigenous varieties such as Ġellewza and Girgentina have had years of adaptation to our weather and have increased in popularity, but the current heat-spikes have even affected these grape varieties. Excess heat and sunlight can already affect the vine during its flowering phase, resulting in poor fruitset (yield). Once grapes are ripening (veraison stage) they become more susceptible to heat damage as they soften. Dark coloured grapes may get much hotter than the surrounding air temperature and the berries may shrivel or end up sunburnt. Chris Cremona, viticulturist at Marsovin, explained that the darker, indigenous Ġellewza grape has been hit particularly hard. Just like we avoid darker colours in the summer because heat absorption from the sun is higher, so does the darker grape. Fortunately, the heavy, large leaves of the Ġellewza provide some shade, acting like a canopy over the grapes allowing them to retain the acidity. Matthew Delicata, viticulturist and winemaker at Delicata winery, highlights that an increase in average temperature by even a few degrees Celsius as a concern for winemakers, where a shortened ripening period owing to the excess heat may result in less flavoursome grapes. Luckily, the cool Mediterranean breeze has helped reduce this effect when compared to more landlocked areas.

All qualityconscious producers intentionally reduce yields of their crop to increase the quality of their grapes.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F WINE

he searing sun is not the only problem our grape growers are facing. Drought is a problem that seems to be getting worse year on year and, though winemakers and farmers have invested heavily in irrigation, there is no substitute for rain. Even the amateur plant enthusiast is aware of how plants only really come back to life after the first proper rains. Vines are no different. Farmers can continue investing in irrigation, but the nutrients that the vine gets from natural rain water is key to growing healthy grapes and, consequently, quality wine. Karl Chetcuti, Estate Manager at Meridiana Estates, feels that some of the more delicate international white grape varieties often need a little extra attention due to the lack of rain, whereas the international red grape varieties continue to mature extremely well, despite the drop in yield. This decline in berries per vine due to heat stress and other factors does not necessarily spell disaster. In fact, all quality-conscious producers intentionally reduce yields of their crop to increase the quality of their grapes. Just like pruning trees and plants

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

ultimately improves the health of the plant, cutting bunches of grapes to reduce the quantity of grapes per vine, increases the sugar content and quality of the remaining bunches and berries, hence we get better quality wine. However, I believe there is a caveat. When the yield is reduced further than originally intended by the winemaker, the volume of wine produced is also less than anticipated, thus potentially driving prices up for the consumer. This has become a relatively common occurrence elsewhere. The 2020 Bordeaux vintage, where quality is considered nothing short of fantastic, the volumes have decreased spectacularly and pushed up prices. Other international winemaking areas such as Chablis in Burgundy were hit also with severe April frost this year, slashing yields in some unprotected areas by up to 50%. I do not believe the quality will be affected, but I have no doubt that the smaller volumes will automatically drive prices up for good quality Chablis for this year’s vintage. So, though quality may not be affected, the consumer is often affected by price hikes.

T&F WINE

he investment and increased knowledge of winemaking in Malta have improved greatly over the years and techniques to combat the effects of climate change have been implemented for some time. Techniques known as canopy management – where a grapevine canopy (leaves, shoots, fruit) is managed using trellis techniques, irrigation management and rootstock choice – are commonly used. These techniques can be complex and challenging. For example, leaf cover is a technique to shade the berries from direct sunlight. However, when there is increased humidity the leaf cover could stifle good air circulation and be susceptible to diseases such as ‘grey rot’ which would infect the berries on the vine. It’s already a known fact that wine around the world has changed due to global warming. The winemaking map has increased with colder places like England managing to make some fantastic sparkling wines due to their warmer summers, while extreme weather shifts in more traditional wine-making areas such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany and Provence have declared lower yields for several recent vintages. It then comes as no surprise that quality Maltese

winemakers are also being affected with issues faced by winemakers in warmer climates, like Australia, where drought is of grave concern and yield a costly effect. The upside is that that the quality of international and Maltese wine has not been lessened and in most cases, has even improved because of reduced yield. When chatting to passionate winemakers, I am always impressed at their respect for nature and sustainability. Maltese winemakers are no different. Their awareness of Malta’s issues with drought and their mindful attitude towards their responsibility to water and long-term vision are palpable. It must be said, that grapevines remain one of the most efficient and sustainable crops we can grow in Malta with respect to good use of water resources. Looking towards the future, I would not be surprised if the more resistant, indigenous grape varieties increase in plantings around the island over the coming years. Even though we are not lucky enough to have extremely high altitudes, we are fortunate to always have the Mediterranean sea breeze somewhere close by cooling our vines and allowing us to continue producing the amazing quality Maltese wines we have now become so accustomed to. n

Their awareness of Malta’s issues with drought and their mindful attitude towards their responsibility to water and long-term vision are palpable.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

Plant Based Cakes at Corinthia Palace

@josephinescoffee

T&F LIGHT MEALS

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

LIGHT MEALS T&F

BREADs

BRUNCH Good, fresh crusty bread spread with colourful toppings popping with flavour is perfect for brunch or any time you want a light-but-satisfying snack. Food and photography: Claire Borg

If you have the time to make your own bread, it’s worth the while. There’s nothing quite like the taste of home-made sourdough and the scent of it baking is divine. A close second is thickly cut slices of a Maltese loaf, or slabs of brown rye. Top them with home-made spreads and cheese, vegetables, salad leaves and fruit, cured meat or shrimp. The possibilities are endless, but here are a few ideas to start.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F LIGHT MEALS

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

LIGHT MEALS T&F

Duo of crostini This medley of Mediterranean flavours looks good and tastes even better. Choose firm fleshed figs, which will hold their shape while you assemble the topping.

Serves 2 FOR THE HUMMUS

200 g canned chickpeas (leave a few aside for the topping) 1 teaspoon tahini 1 teaspoon za’atar spice or ½ teaspoon cumin juice of half a lemon 6 tablespoons olive oil 1-2 tablespoons of Greek yoghurt (optional) FOR THE TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA TOPPING

cherry tomatoes mini buffalo mozzarella balls hummus salad greens chickpeas 2 slices of sourdough bread garlic olive oil FOR THE FIG TOPPING

6 small figs 6-10 slices of bresaola some goat cheese salad greens 2 slices of sourdough bread garlic olive oil

1. Wash the figs and cut them in

half. Slice up the goat cheese.

2. Make the hummus by blending all the ingredients together until smooth. 3. Lightly toast the bread slices, rub them with cut garlic and drizzle them with olive oil and sea salt. 4. Spread a layer of hummus onto each slice, top with a mix of salad leaves and the other ingredients.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F LIGHT MEALS

Roasted Pepper and Aubergine Pâté with Chickpeas and Prawns I made these with home-grown ,white aubergines. Some were the size of a large egg, so I kept a couple aside, grilled and halved them, and served them on the side.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

6 medium-sized prawns, locally sourced 4 slices of bread 1 red pepper 1 small aubergine (I used 3 extra-small white ones which I grew in my garden) 1 can chickpeas 50 g walnuts 1 clove garlic olive oil juice of ½ a lemon ¼ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon tahini mint and parsley salt, pepper and chili flakes to taste

1. Over a barbecue (or directly on a gas

hob), grill the pepper until charred. Then peel and deseed it and set it aside.

2. Roast the aubergines (whole, with skin on) until soft. Cut it in half and scoop out the flesh. 3. In a large bowl, mix the aubergine pulp, pepper, walnuts, tahini, cumin, lemon juice, 4 tablespoons olive oil, one clove of garlic and half the can of chick peas. Add chili, salt and pepper to taste and blend until smooth. 4. Peel the prawns, leaving the tails on. Skewer them and grill them for 2-3 minutes on each side. Mix the remaining chickpeas with the mint and parsley. 5. Toast the bread and spread a generous amount of

the paste onto each slice. Top the paste with the whole chickpeas and then the grilled prawns. Serve immediately.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

LIGHT MEALS T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F LIGHT MEALS

French Toast with Grilled Peaches and Mascarpone Sweet, tangy, creamy, and crisp, this recipe is everything you could want on one plate.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

2 large peaches 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon brown sugar 100 ml white wine 2 sesame buns (like burger buns) 4 eggs ½ a vanilla pod 100 ml milk maple syrup mascarpone lime wedges to serve

1. In a pan, melt the butter, sprinkle

in the brown sugar, then place the peaches (halved and stone removed) face down. Cook them gently for about 5 minutes, then turn then over and cook for another 5 minutes.

2. Turn up the heat and add the white wine. Cook until the wine evaporates. Remove the peaches from the heat and set them aside. 3. To make the French toast, cut each bun into three slices horizontally. Beat the eggs, milk and scraped vanilla pod together. Dip each slice of bread in the mixture and cook the bread in melted butter until golden on each side. 4. Just before serving, grill the peaches until just golden on top. Add a spoon of mascarpone onto each slice of French toast, then stack the slices, drizzling them with maple syrup. Serve with lime wedges and the grilled peaches.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

LIGHT MEALS T&F

Shrimp and Avocado on Sourdough Squares I made this with a ripe, but firm avocado, using a potato peeler to shave it into ribbons, which makes a difference from simply mashing it.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

2-3 slices of sourdough bread or Maltese hobza cream cheese fresh chives dill ½ an avocado 200g cooked shrimps lemon and chilli (optional) to serve some mint leaves

1. Finely chop a tablespoon of chives

and a tablespoon of dill. Mix the herbs with 4 tablespoons of cream cheese.

2. Cut the bread into squares and top with a teaspoon of cream cheese. 3. Put the avocado over the cream cheese and top it with the shrimps. 4. Serve garnished with mint leaves, lemon and chilli. ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F LIGHT MEALS

Artichoke Heart Pâté with Smoked Salmon on Rye Bread Urfa chili flakes add a deliciously smoky, raisin-like taste to this recipe. Red chili flakes are a good substitute.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

12-15 artichoke hearts (leave a few aside for serving whole) 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 slices of white toast bread 2 slices of rye bread 4 tablespoons or more olive oil 100g pine nuts, toasted 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds 4-6 slices of smoked salmon lemon smoked chili or fresh chili flakes mint

1. Remove the crust of the white bread and cut the bread into cubes. 2. Mix the oil, mustard and vinegar, then add the diced bread and mix. 3. Put the artichoke hearts

in a bowl with the bread, mustard, vinegar, olive oil lemon zest, and pine nuts. Blend until smooth, adding more olive oil, if needed. 4. Top the rye bread with a generous amount of the paste. Add some salad leaves, then layer slices of smoked salmon, thin slices of lemon and artichoke hearts on top. 5. Serve sprinkled with pumpkin seeds and chili flakes, garnished with mint.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

LIGHT MEALS T&F

Fried tomato concasse on sourdough with boiled egg Simple but tasty, and made with just a few ingredients, this will go down well as a quick breakfast too.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED

2-4 slices of sourdough bread or Maltese hobza 5-6 heirloom tomatoes 8 cloves garlic 2 fresh chilies (optional) olive oil salad leaves 2 eggs

1. Hard boil the eggs and

set them aside to cool. Peel and finely chop the tomatoes. Peel and finely chop the garlic.

2. In a pan set on a high heat, warm up 4 tablespoons of olive oil and cook the tomatoes and garlic until the liquid reduces. 3. Add some chopped fresh chilies to the tomatoes if you want a spicy taste. 4. Toast the bread, then scoop the concasse on top. Add some mixed greens and finally the peeled boiled egg on top. Serve drizzled with some olive oil.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

Seafood &Salad

Seafood is the ultimate convenience food on busy days. What could be easier than popping a whole, fresh fish in the oven, steaming clams in wine to toss with pasta, or grilling prawns with garlic? Photography: Corinne Vella

Most of the ingredients in these recipes are usually in your store cupboard and vegetable crisper. All you need to add is the seafood. Pick some up on your way home, and you can have dinner ready in minutes.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

Herbroasted fish We used seabass but you could substitute that with almost any other type of white fish. Cooking fish in butter is unusual, but enriches the taste of this dish. You could replace it with an extra splash of olive oil.

Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 whole seabass (approximately, 750g), gutted and descaled 2 medium tomatoes 1 medium lemon 1 small onion 1 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional) extra-virgin olive oil 1 small bunch fresh parsley 1 small bunch fresh dill

1. Set the oven to 180°C. 2. Peel the onion and slice it finely into rings. Slice up the unpeeled tomatoes and lemon. Wash the herbs, shake off the excess water, and roughly chop them up (leaves and stems). 3. Brush an ovenproof dish with olive oil and spread out a third of the tomato and lemon slices and onion rings. Scatter with a third of the herbs. 4. Rub the inside of the fish with salt and pepper, stuff it with another third of the tomato, lemon, onion, and herbs, and place it in the dish. Top it with the remaining vegetables, lemon and herbs. 5. Drizzle the fish with olive oil and

dot it with butter, if you’re using it. Cover the dish loosely with foil and let the fish cook in the preheated oven until done (approximately 20 minutes). Serve immediately with salad and warm, crusty bread.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

YOU WILL NEED

2 skinless lampuki fillets 2 shallots 1 small marrow 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 100g cooked chickpeas 100g medium grain bulgar wheat 100ml water 100ml fish stock 1 tablespoon harissa ½ teaspoon crushed chili flakes 1½ handfuls cherry tomatoes 1 loose handful fresh mint leaves salt

1. Peel the shallots and slice them

into rings. Halve the cherry tomatoes. Trim the marrow, slice it in half lengthwise and cut it into half-moons about ¼ cm thick.

2. Set a large pan on a medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallots and marrow. Fry lightly for 1 minutes. Season with salt and sprinkle in the crushed chili flakes. Continue cooking until the shallots soften and the marrow starts to turn golden brown (5-7 minutes). 3. Stir in the dry bulgar wheat and continue to cook while stirring for 2-3 minutes. Add the chickpeas and cook for another minute. Add the water, fish stock, and tomatoes and stir. Turn the heat up until the mixture starts to simmer lightly. Cover the pan and let it simmer for another 7-9 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, season the fish fillets with salt and rub them on both sides with the harissa paste. Put the seasoned fillets into the pan and tuck them slightly into the mixture. Cover the pan again and let it simmer for another 6-7 minutes until the fish is done. 5. Remove the pan from the heat

and let it stand for a minute or two. Serve the fish on a bed of the wheat mixture, drizzled with oil and sprinkled with mint leaves.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

Lampuki with harissa Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes

QUICK MEALS T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Gambas a la guillo The fiddly part of this recipe is peeling the prawns. After that, it’s a breeze. The garlic and pepper sauce is rich and creamy without being overpowering. Omit the butter if you prefer using only olive oil.

Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

10 large prawns 100ml water 30ml dry white wine 200ml extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons butter ½ a bulb of garlic 2 large red chilies juice of half a lemon parsley stems, finely chopped salt

1. Peel the garlic and trim and deseed

the chili peppers. Mix the lemon juice with the olive oil, then put the mixture into a blender with the peppers and garlic and blend to a smooth paste.

2. Peel and devein the prawns, retaining the tails and heads, and sprinkle them lightly with salt. Warm some oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pan and sear the prawns for 2-3 minutes on each side. 3. Pour in the wine and let it bubble up. Add the water, butter, and garlic-chili blend. Tilt the pan gently to spread the butter around as it melts. Turn the heat down to a gentle simmer and let the mixture cook until the sauce reduces to a lightly creamy consistency. 4. Arrange the prawns on a serving dish and pour over the sauce. Serve at once, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley stems and some bread to mop up the juices.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

Linguine vongole This classic pasta dish is easy to prepare with just a few ingredients. Use a good quality dry white wine to complement the briny taste of the seafood.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 25 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1kg clams 400g linguine 1 ½ glasses dry white wine 2-3 red chilies 4 garlic cloves 1 small bunch parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Rinse the clams in fresh water. If any

of them are slightly open, tap them and bin the ones that don’t snap shut.

2. Peel and finely slice the garlic. Trim and deseed the peppers and chop them into small pieces. Wash and finely chop the parsley. 3. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and add the linguine. 4. Heat a large flat pan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and garlic and cook until the garlic starts to turn golden (about 2 minutes). 5. Add the clams and cook for

1 minute while stirring. Next, pour in the wine and let it bubble down. Stir in the chili pepper.

6. Cover the pan and lower the

heat to a simmer. Let clams cook until they open (about 5 minutes), shaking the pan occasionally.

7. Check the pasta. Once it is al dente, drain it, reserving a ladleful of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the clams, season to taste and sprinkle in the parsley. Toss lightly to coast the pasta with the sauce. Add a little bit of the cooking water, if necessary. 8. Let the mixture cook for another

minute, then serve immediately.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Spicy coconut fish stew This blend of tropical flavours with freshly crushed spices is a holiday on a plate.

Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 35 minutes YOU WILL NEED

2 skinless fish fillets (we used lampuki) 250g tomatoes 1 large onion 2 cloves garlic 200g coconut milk 2 tablespoons tikka curry paste ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 3 cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick 1cm piece fresh ginger 1 small bunch coriander 150g basmati rice 1 ½ tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and add the

rice. Let it cook while you prepare the curry sauce.

2. Cut the fish fillets into 2cm chunks. Peel and slice the onion and garlic. Peel and julienne the ginger. Split the cardamom pods and crush the seeds. Wash the tomatoes, remove the white core, and cut them into large chunks. Wash and chop the coriander leaves. 3. Heat the oil in a large pan set on a medium heat. Add the onions and let them cook until they soften and start to colour. Now, add the garlic and tomatoes and fry them for 2 minutes. Add the tikka paste and cook for a further 2 minutes. 4. Stir in the turmeric and crushed cardamom, and add the cinnamon stick. Pour in the coconut milk and turn up the heat until the mixture starts to boil. 5. Now, add the fish to the mixture and turn the heat

down. Let the pan simmer until the fish is cooked through (around 6-7 minutes). Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the chopped coriander, reserving some as a garnish.

6. Drain the rice and fluff it up with a fork. Serve

immediately topped with the curry sauce and garnished with the remaining coriander.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

QUICK MEALS T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F QUICK MEALS

Lemon & mint tomato salad This simple salad is made in minutes and enjoyed alone or as a side dish. Save any leftovers and toss them with steamed cooled cous cous or bulgar wheat.

Serves 2 Preparation: 15 minutes plus chilling time

YOU WILL NEED:

4 field tomatoes 1 handful fresh mint leaves 1 medium lemon extra-virgin olive oil sea salt

1. Wash the mint leaves and pat

them dry. Finely chop 2/3 of the leaves and reserve the rest.

2. Squeeze the lemon juice into half a cup of extra-virgin olive oil and whip them until well combined. 3. Stir the chopped mint into

the lemon dressing and set it aside for 5 minutes to infuse.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

4. Now, core and deseed the tomatoes and chop them finely. Toss the chopped tomato with the dressing and put the salad in the fridge to chill for 30 minutes. 5. Serve topped with whole

mint leaves accompanied by olive oil and crusty bread.

The Taste of

Street Food from Thursday 9TH September

Strada del Gusto - Italian Street Food

Strada del Gusto -Italian Street Food

Strada del Gusto - Italian Street Food

Crispy Squid Rings

Genoa-Style Focaccia

Mini Cannoli

Fizzy Soft Drinks

400g pack

180g pack

132g pack

200ml bottle

89 1kg = 7.23 €

www.lidl.com.mt

39 1kg = 7.72 €

29 1kg = 17.35 €

89 1L = 4.45 €

T&F CONTEMPORARY

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CONTEMPORARY T&F

H VER HOUSE The contemporary rethinking of a traditional townhouse shows that design can be both creative and cost-effective Architects: Anthea Huber and Daphne Bugeja, Archi+ Photography: Alex Attard

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CONTEMPORARY

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CONTEMPORARY T&F

hen Archi+ were tasked with extending an existing townhouse they set about reorganizing the architectural volumes. “The clients are a young family,” says Daphne Bugeja, senior architect at Archi+. “The present footprint of the house was quite large and they had more space than they needed, spread over three floors. That gave us more flexibility.” The existing fabric of the house was made up of rooms on different levels with no common connection. The architects wanted to outline the idea of different masses, so they developed the architectural plan into different volumes with a common link, while respecting the existing fabric of the building.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CONTEMPORARY

he architectural design pivoted on the creation of floating volumes. A double height space now marks the transition from the original house to the extension at the back. The volumes on the upper floor hover overhead, seemingly floating in space. “We wanted to respect the structure but create openness,” Daphne says. A steel-railed bridge links the floating volumes, separating the master bedroom from the other bedrooms. It is sprayed black in contrast to the stark white walls, marking a clear shift between the two volumes. At ground level, a wood-burning fireplace in black is set against the opposite wall, its flue running all the way up the double-height space, emphasizing its verticality. A skylight set into the ceiling above the fireplace creates a dramatic play of light and shadow which shifts and changes throughout the day. “Many of the interior house walls are white,” Daphne says. “It is the ideal colour to reflect light and make a space look as open as possible”

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CONTEMPORARY T&F

A skylight set above the double height space between the floating volumes of the upper floor creates shifting patterns of light and shade throughout the day. The wood-burning stove is by Star Fires.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CONTEMPORARY

olourful artwork lines the walls, the neutral tone of the interior acting as a foil for the art pieces, much as it would in an art gallery. The effect is a pleasing by-product of the design process: the concrete floor was an aesthetic and practical choice as the material is cost-effective and there are less joints. “There’s quite a lot going for it,” says Anthea Huber, partner and head of design at the firm “Our client is a keen art collector and very creative. He understood what the space is going to give back. We designed and finished the house, and once the art moved in, it all came together.” Unusually, this was a project where the architects were involved from the beginning to the end, including the detailing. Their clients gave them a lot of creative freedom, stepping in mainly when they were sure they did not want something in particular, and the plans were executed as designed. “We had an opportunity to see it all come together,” Daphne Bugeja says. “Projects usually take a long time to execute. This was a complete solution.”

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

FIND OUT WHY ARCHITECTS AND DESIGNERS LOVE WORKING WITH OUR CONTEMPORARY AND CLASSIC STYLES. PARTNERED WITH SOME OF EUROPE’S LEADING FIREPLACE BRANDS, STAR FIRES OFFERS THE LARGEST SELECTION OF FIREPLACES ON THE ISLAND. StarFires Shop 10/24, Triq iz-Zenqa Naxxar, NXR 1773, Malta Open MON - FRI 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00 - 19:00, SAT 09:00 - 13:00 Tel (+356) 2142 0255 / 262, (+356) 9947 2119

www.starfiresmalta.com

T&F CONTEMPORARY

“W

e were also involved in designing the kitchen and other bespoke furniture, the railing of the main stairwell, and light fittings in the master bedroom. We wanted to recreate the floating effect in this bedroom that we had created in the volumes over the ground floor. The bedroom is double height and we wanted to emphasise that. We worked with the lighting supplier and ironworker and with our client, trying to make it all work. Starting from a sketch to seeing it all installed is rewarding.” The bathrooms were designed differently from the conventional type which includes lots of reflective surfaces. “We designed them applying the same design principles used for living room and bedrooms,” Daphne says. As in other areas of the house there is a lot of detailing and the design resonates with the tiling effect and the steel parameters created and used in the living area. Storage space is maximized and each bathroom is themed to complement the associated bedroom or living space. What of the garden? “That was definitely a priority, for our clients,” Anthea says. “They were moving out of a smaller space.” There was a planning limitation. As the garden is part of a green enclave, it could not be developed further. In any case, the house owners wanted a green space at the back, and that is literally what they got. “The lawn is real, not artificial,” Anthea points out. The design of the back façade was as important as the rest of the building, particularly as the house owners wanted the garden to be a space they would use. The house is in an urban conservation area, so the traditional design of the front façade was retained. However, the back façade offered scope for experimental design.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

CONTEMPORARY T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CONTEMPORARY

“W

e wanted to emphasise the verticality with a panel effect but did not want to use marble or a similar material,” Daphne says. “This was a design experiment where we replicated proportions but in a contemporary style.” The solution was to use insulation boards separated by U-channels, creating linearity in an energy-efficient and costeffective manner, a key consideration when working within a budget. Several samples were studied and tested before the chosen solution was implemented over the back façade. The challenge when designing this space was keeping within the project budget. The architects came up with design solutions that are creative and detailed, but cost-effective in terms of design and materials. “They are small touches which are creative but realistic. It’s very rewarding as it makes good design more achievable for more people.” n

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F GARDENING

THE CHASTE TREE Now a rare sight in the wild, the aromatic and butterfly-friendly Siġret il-virġi can be cultivated domestically

Vitex agnus-gastus, more commonly known as The Chaste Tree, grows in the wild throughout southern Europe and other parts of the Mediterranean. Yet, although its presence in Malta predates the arrival of humans, the valley-growing tree is now a rare sight in the wild and is designated as a species under threat, protected by law. The Chaste Tree grows well in Malta’s climate as it is well-adapted to the arid environment and alkaline soil, and not particularly susceptible to diseases or pests. Left untended, it will spread high and wide – up to 6 metres or so – looking more like an overgrown shrub than a tall majestic tree. Bare in the winter (the tree is deciduous), in spring time it sprouts aromatic greygreen foliage and tall narrow spikes of flowers in pink, blue or purple that open in early summer and are particularly attractive to butterflies and bees.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

Saplings should be planted out in early spring in a spot where they can enjoy full sunshine for most of the day or, at most, only partial shade. The soil bed needs to be well-drained and fertile enough to encourage growth. However, the Chaste Tree can tolerate drier soil so long as it gets regular “deep” watering (once a week in summer, every 2-3 weeks in winter) which encourages root development and stronger growth. Naturally multi-trunked, the plant can be trained to grow into a monotrunked tree by careful pruning. Any damaged or dead branches could be removed in late spring but if the treepruning is done in the autumn months, it will help promote fruiting the following season. The fruit - Chasteberry, or Monk’s Pepper – is used as a herbal remedy but is better left to seed to help germinate new plants.

GARDENING T&F

To maintain the single trunk, the lowest branches and side shoots will need to be removed regularly every season as the tree grows until the crown reaches the desired height. Annual pruning will not affect its flowering as Chaste Tree flowers grow on new wood. Repeat blooming can be encouraged by cutting back the first flush of flowers as soon as they fade. You will be rewarded with a second flush later in the summer. Allow this to go to seed, rather than cutting back the faded blooms. Known in Maltese as S i ġ r e t i l virġi, Għadib, or Bżar il-Patrijiet, the Chaste Tree is also known as the Virgin Bush, because of its reputed anaphrodisiac properties, referenced in the anonymous Middle English allegorical poem, The Floure and the Leafe, as an attribute of the chaste Diana. As told by Pliny in Historia Naturalis, women used the aromatic

In spring time it sprouts aromatic grey-green foliage and tall narrow spikes of flowers in pink, blue or purple that are particularly attractive to butterflies and bees. lance-shaped leaves as bedding during the annual, women-only religious festival of Thesmophoria which was held in the sowing season and which celebrated fertility, both agricultural and human. The scent of the foliage supposedly cooled one’s ardour, so women who were away from their husbands were able to keep themselves chaste by sleeping on a bed of Chaste Tree leaves.

Saplings and seeds Chaste tree saplings are available from “Grow 10 Trees”, an active citizen programme aimed at encouraging participation in afforestration projects around the Maltese islands. If you’d like to participate in the programme by growing trees from seed, contact the “Grow 10 Trees” organisers at g10t.eu. Participants commit to growing and nurturing at least 10 indigenous trees or plants which will eventually be planted out in public spaces. “Grow 10 Trees” collects Chaste Tree seeds sustainably from the wild from September through to November for planting out in February or March. The seeds should be planted in containers about 1cm below the surface in humid soil that must be kept damp throughout the germination period. They will sprout 3-4 months later.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F VALLETTA

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

VALLETTA T&F

HOME

I N T H E

CITY Heritage architecture and contemporary finishes turned this house into a home. Architecture and Interior design: Forward Architects – Michael Pace, Nikki Muscat, Vera Jankovic, Angela Camilleri Design lead: Nikki Muscat Civil and Interiors contractors: Schranz Ltd Photography: David Pisani

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F VALLETTA

n the narrow streets of Valletta, houses tend to get brighter and the ceilings higher as you go up through the building. So, when Forward Architects were called in to turn an old Valletta house into a contemporary home, they turned it upside down, gutting it and redoing it from scratch. “It made sense to invert the traditional layout of public areas on the lower floors and private spaces on the upper floors,” says Michael Pace, a partner at the architecture firm. “That necessitated installing a lift so you can go straight up to the piano nobile, which is where the main living, kitchen, and dining quarters are. From there you can comfortably make your way down to the private bedroom areas, or up to the roof terrace.” The biggest challenges were how to make the house work and where to fit things like services without compromising the architectural character of the building. There are two staircases in separate locations, and a lift needed to be installed. “The planning of the place was the most difficult part. How to bring light down and still have access to a lift needed some thought,” Michael says. The solution was to provide access to the lift through the courtyard. “When you walk through the front door, you walk out into the courtyard, which is not roofed over. What’s nice about it is that you experience the courtyard every day and, if it’s raining, there are the stairs.”

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

www.schranzltd.com

+356 21418760

T&F VALLETTA

t the bottom end of the house, the basement was turned into a fitness room, which was ventilated by opening up the courtyard floor to allow light and air to enter. On the piano nobile, a mezzanine was built to house a library with enough space to walk its length. The structure gives a different look to the room without cramping its height and has the dual function of housing and concealing some of the services. The air conditioning system is tucked into the wood and metal structure, with a technical room just under the wooden stairs. Much of the wood work is bespoke. The kitchen, for example, was designed specially for the space it occupies. “We had it made to our designs,” Michael says. “When you need something particular, like replicating folding doors, you need bespoke work.” The addition of a small room at roof level created a summertime living area with immediate access to the street-side terrace with views to the side, a plunge pool and outdoor cooking facilities. The height of the new room had to be kept low so the roof is in a flat concrete slab to keep it as thin as possible. “It’s a new room and easily readable as such,” Michael says. “You won’t be mistaken in thinking that it’s not a new structure.”

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

VALLETTA T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F VALLETTA

“I

t’s possible to install modern comforts in a conversion of a heritage house,” Michael says. “Old houses are beautiful because of the way they’re built. Simply keeping the façade is meaningless. You may as well just buy a plot. If you see a beautiful house and pull it down to rebuild it, you’re defeating your own purpose.”

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

“The house had a lot of interesting architectural features like the high ceilings, and fittings like concertina doors, which we kept. We felt this was why the house was beautiful. All we needed to do was convert it with mod-cons, like underfloor heating and air-conditioning, that give it a feeling of luxury without losing the character of the space itself.”

The architects made use of everything the house had to offer, retaining its historic features while creating a high-spec home where, for example, the windows look traditional but are double-glazed and well insulated. The main contractor for this project, Schranz Ltd, provided a start to finish service for the civil and the finishing works.

VALLETTA T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F VALLETTA

o leave the original ceilings visible, soffits were avoided in most areas so services like air conditioning were concealed in wall linings and partitions. Installing a lift in an old house often means making compromises, though not in this case. “We managed to accommodate the lift without affecting the main spaces or the staircase,” Michael says. “It’s as good as it was originally. The flow through the house works. We kept all the windows onto the staircase and also retained the back garigor to access the service areas on the roof.” “The finishes are very particular. They’re bold and we used a lot of black, so it might not be to everybody’s liking. But for those who do like the boldness, it works. Every project is 2-way. Some clients are more involved than others. In this case, our client’s taste and ours were aligned. After moving in, our client retained the overall look, furnishing it with personal items that complemented what we had done, so we had a bit of luck there as well.”

It made sense to invert the traditional layout of public areas on the lower floors and private spaces on the upper floors 74

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

DEEP NATURE SPA AT THE PHOENICIA. DESIGNED BY AP VALLETTA

Surfacing the most beautiful spaces

Stoneline Gold Grip flooring and pool walls.

HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. T: (+356) 21 433 636 E: info@halmannvella.com

www.halmannvella.com

T&F VALLETTA

“D

uring the design stage, you think about the layout and spaces and what to retain, and you work out location of facilities. The result then evolves during the course of the design process. Once you know the volume, spaces, and circulation will work, you move onto thinking about the look and feel of the place which become a reality when you choose the materials and fittings and ultimately deliver a good quality job.” “Good design needn’t shout. I like to think when we’re doing these houses, that if you retain what works and you manage to get the spaces right, you get all the conveniences in, and then you work with simple, high quality natural materials and products – then the ensemble is likely to be a success.” n

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

VALLETTA T&F

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F CULTURE DIARY

p Nicolas Poussin A Dance to the Music of Time, about 1634-6 Oil on canvas, 82.5 x 104 cm By kind permission of the Trustees of the Wallace Collection, London (P108) © The Trustees of the Wallace Collection

p The Borghese Dancers, first century CE Marble 71.9 x 187 cm Paris, Musée du Louvre, Département des Antiquités Grecques, Étrusques et Romaines, inv. MA 1612 © RMN-Grand Palais

t Nicolas Poussin A Dance before a Herm of Pan, about 1631-2 Pen and ink with wash over graphite underdrawing 20.6 x 32.7 cm The Royal Collection / HM Queen Elizabeth II (RCIN 911979) Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2021

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

p The Borghese Vase, first century CE Marble 172 x 135 cm Paris, Musée du Louvre, Département des Antiquités Grecques, Étrusques et Romaines, inv. MR 985 © RMN-Grand Palais (musée du Louvre) / Hervé Lewandowski

CULTURE DIARY T&F

Poussin and the Dance

A new exhibition at London’s National Gallery 9 October 2021 – 2 January 2022

p Nicolas Poussin, c. 1634 Study for A Dance to the Music of Time Ink and wash on paper, 14.8 x 19.9 cm Scottish National Gallery © National Galleries of Scotland

p Nicolas Poussin, 1635-6 The Triumph of Bacchus, Oil on canvas 128 x 151.8 cm The Nelson - Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, Missouri Purchase: William Rockhill Nelson Trust, inv. 31-94 © Image courtesy of The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Media Services / Photo: John Lamberton

Nicolas Poussin is an artist’s artist. For centuries, his works have been hugely influential, inspiring artists as diverse as David and Cézanne, Picasso and Bacon. Yet Poussin is sometimes overlooked by the public who often find his paintings cold, difficult or overly erudite. Art historians have tended to characterise him as a philosopher, rather than a painter, and his pictures are rarely presented in a warm or approachable way. The new exhibition opening at the National Gallery next month, focuses on Poussin’s early career in Rome, from his arrival in the city in 1624 until about 1640 when he was called back to France to serve as First Painter to the King under Louis XIII. Born at Les Andelys in Normandy and first trained in Rouen, as a young man, Poussin was desperate to get to Rome. From 1612 he lived in Paris and in 1624 travelled via Venice to Rome, where he stayed for most of his life. Finally arriving in the city on his third attempt – having had two thwarted journeys take him as far as Florence and Lyon – he threw himself into the Classical world he saw around him, drawing inspiration from antique sculptures and bas reliefs as well as the works of artists such as Titian and Raphael. Poussin’s sensuous early canvases such as “The Nurture of Bacchus” reflect 16th-century Venetian art, especially that of Titian. He studied antique remains and his art reflects both this and an appreciation of Raphael. Many of the most celebrated antiquities he knew depicted dancers, and in Rome, Poussin himself, grappling with the concepts of both arresting and representing motion, took on the challenge of capturing dance on paper, in paint, and even in clay. When choreographing his compositions, he created wax figurines which he arranged in a kind of model theatre (or “grande machine”). Poussin read ancient writers such as Ovid and attempted to recreate ancient myth and history in his works. He mainly painted easel paintings for private patrons. His larger works for Louis XIII, made from 1640 to 1642 on his return to Paris, were less successful. Scholarly patrons in Rome and Paris included the antiquarian Cassiano dal Pozzo and the notable art collector, Cardinal de Richelieu. The exhibition “Poussin and the Dance” will include the artist’s most celebrated dance picture, “Dance to the Music of Time” (c. 1634-6), on loan from the Wallace Collection for the first time ever in in 121-year history. The group in “Dance to the Music of Time” represents the perpetual cycle of the human condition: Poverty, Labour, Wealth and Pleasure which, if indulged to excess, reverts to Poverty. The dancers are accompanied on the lyre by the winged figure of Time. The bubbles and hourglass are symbols for the brevity of life.

Over twenty paintings and drawings from public and private collections in Europe and the USA, and a series of drawings lent by Her Majesty the Queen, will be shown for the first time alongside some of the celebrated Classical antiquities that inspired them: “The Borghese Vase”, first century CE, and “The Borghese Dancers”, second century CE, both from the Musée du Louvre, Paris. These works will be seen together for the first time in a generation and will allow visitors to trace Poussin’s influences and the sophisticated translations he made between marble, paint and paper. Four paintings from the National Gallery Collection will also be on display, including The Triumph of Silenus (about 1636), which has recently been cleaned, restored and reattributed to Poussin.

ISSUE 140 SEPTEMBER 2021

T&F TRENDS

p The Walk-in shower collection by Inda is available in various finishes. Inda - A solution designed for you! Exclusively available from Satariano, 122 Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149 t Benna’s NEW Limited Edition Bubblegum milkshake is now available from all leading supermarkets. Get yours while stocks last. This new milkshake forms part of range of fresh milk products which Benna offers, from whole milk to skimmed, other flavoured milkshakes, creamy yoghurts and local ġbejniet. If it’s fresh, it’s Benna.

p KOI surface mounted downlighters offer a sleek and neat solution, where aesthetic and function are of top priority. Offering an IP66 rating, they are intended for outdoor use, however their superb design and execution make them also ideal for internal use. The downlighters are available in round and rectangular configurations, as well as bollards. They are extremely versatile especially since they come in four different finishes: white, light grey, anthracite grey and corten. Find them on display and exclusively available at Elektra Ltd.

p Wall covering like no other - unusual materials and techniques in the Samal Collection are what make Arte stand out from the crowd. These oyster-like shells are manually coloured, cut and inlaid in geometric patterns. Capiz is a real natural product. Each shell is unique and differs in colour and structure. This makes the collection an exclusive and artistic wallcovering. In addition, the colour nuances of the mother-of-pearl vary according to the light, creating a surprising and constantly changing effect. Large collection of Arte Wallcoverings available exclusively from Satariano, 122, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149

p Artic Bianco by Porcelanosa. A marble-inspired tile that gives the room,brightness, visual spaciousness and a touch of distinction. Exclusively available from Satariano, 122, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel. 2149 2149

The next issue will be out in October 2021 with The Malta Independent on Sunday

ISSUE 139 JULY 2021

p Meridiana ASTARTE DOK Made exclusively from Malta-grown Vermentino grapes, Meridiana’s ASTARTE DOK has a straw-yellow colour and is characterised by intense aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with hints of flowers. Its palate is fresh with a pleasantly acidic finish. Distributed by S Rausi Trading Ltd, Gzira, T. 2133 0447, M. 7909 3197, info@srausi.com www.meridiana.com.mt

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt

Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901

MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901