Letter from the Editor The voices of our ancestors flow through us Speaking at new volumes Re-interpreting the world around us And providing the basis for who we are. ANTIquity lies in the thread That weaves the fabric of society And simultaneously tears each stitch apart Creating new patterns More beautiful than the last. Without change we have no beauty And without beauty there is no meaning For what our ancestors have done And what we have left to finish. We are here to bring you beauty. We are here to bring you change. We are here to create something that speaks. With you. With love,
1
A N T I q u i t y Everybody has their own story. Nobody’s identity or experience is identical to anyone else’s. For many of us, our lives take shape and meaning from the other people who are a part of it.
ANTIquity is an opportunity to look to ourselves and our communities. It is a chance to think about those who came before us as well as those who will come after. ANTIquity is a call to recognize and embrace the past, honoring our traditions. At the same time, ANTIquity demands that we celebrate and listen to people who are different from us. The people trying new things, the innovators, and the people who aren’t afraid to question things. ANTIquity compels us to look to the future without abandoning the past.
Abe Plaut 2
3
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
P. 1: Letter from the Editor P. 2: Theme Explanation P. 3-4: Table of Contents P. 5-6: Accreditations P. 7-14: Baroque P. 15-16: Local Designer Spotlight P. 17-28: Mod P. 29-30: National Artist Spotlight P. 31-50: Summer of ‘77 P. 51-54: Humans of Bloomington P. 55-60: Camp
4
TEAM ACCREDITATIONS EDITOR IN CHIEF: PAIGE VENTURI DIRECTORS DIRECTOR OF MERCH AND STYLING: ARJUN MADHAVAN DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE DESIGN: LIVV REECE DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL: CHRISTINA WINFREY AND RIN MCNUTT DIRECTOR OF MARKETING: CONNOR GARCIA CO-DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS: MADISON GODFREY CO-DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS: MIHIR TAK DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY: ERIK ROMERO MERCH AND STYLING
MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS
CREATIVE DESIGN
Merchandising Officers Karen Koak Kelsey Rike Erin Huston Anna Gebhardt Jess Becker Beth Reynolds Kayla Mary Schutter
Fiannce Coordiantor: Anna Moon
Graphic Design: Maddie Arias
Outreach Coordiantor: Alyssa Velez Event Planner: Laura Sherman
Layout Design: Elyse Ackerman Dan Babis Alex Dreier Kimberly Flores
EDITORIAL
PHOTOGRAPHY
Writers: Abe Plaut Connor Rafferty Meagan Wilson
Photographers: Brendan Spangler Lauren Thompson Sara Mantich
Stylists Nishi Muna Mackie Schroeter Sariah Borom Catie Cook Zee Brown Varsha Anand Hannah Morrolf Shaya Abbaspour Arianne Dora Autumn Brandt Jessica Van Winkle Rebecca White Kate Mojica Mikaela Blackwell Kennedy Keown
5
Copy Editors: Emily Baugh Clark Gudas
FOUNDER: SHARON HSU INTRODUCTION PROSE BY ARJUN MADHAVAN
NOUVEAUX RICHES
Dripping in pearls I indulge in all the pleasures around me Living and breathing opulence I bask in all my glory
7
Photographer: Lauren Thompson & Brenden Spangler. Models: Maggie Tully & Maia Rabenold. Stylists: Mackie Schroeter, Varsha Anand, Jessica Van Winkle, Autumn Brandt. Merch Officers: Karen Koak, Kelsey Rike , Erin Huston, Anna Gebhardt
9
11
12
STUDENT DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT Interview with Think Cool founder Joey Krengel Interview by Connor Rafferty Krengel: A lot of people like to wear their sorority’s or fraternity’s stuff or the Kilroys shirts and stuff like that. I don’t have a problem like that, I just think it’s kind of unoriginal. There are some very creative people that go here, and I feel like we kind of just set the bar kind of low with what we put out there sometimes. Like, all the sororities and fraternities and Kilroys, they’re all the same thing. They just find a different logo and change it. I feel like we could do so much better. We totally could Season Magazine sat down with Think Cool founder Joey Krengel, who started the clothing line when she come up with our own things that are cool. I don’t know if they don’t want to push themselves or they don’t was a high school senior in Chicago. She has continued to create designs during her time at IU, constantly think it’s going to sell. Because that’s a big thing, too, is what they like here. working on designs or searching for inspiration. An easy brand identifier is the logo, a bizarre face based on a Season: There are some weird pieces of clothing in the drawing Krengel saw in high school. Think Cool catalogue, “the face” in particular. What do you think “the face” expresses? Responses have been shortened for brevity and clarity. Krengel: It’s kind of bold…it gives no fucks, just does whatever they want. They don’t care, it doesn’t matter what everyone thinks. I have a pretty high respect Krengel: I kind of hated that everybody always wore the for people and genuine social skills and would never be same thing. I liked to wear my brother’s clothes since rude to someone for no reason, but I’m going to do, act forever. I would just cut up my own clothes. I ruined a and dress however I want, and I don’t care what anyone lot of clothes before I made anything cool. I liked to go thinks about it. That’s the message that I kind of want to portray. to a thrift store and make my own things. Season: What first got you into fashion—in particular designing it?
Season: According to an Envision Magazine article on the Think Cool website, one of the things you love is helping others express themselves through fashion. What do you think is being expressed through your specific apparel?
Season: What would you say are the keys to building that level of brand awareness?
Krengel: I think the key is literally like, social media. But more importantly the connections that you make personally. I’m not that crazy about social media, I think Krengel: A lot of girls are forced to look a certain way, it’s important, but the most impact I have on a person is or go out wearing certain things, stuff like that. It’s like, when I actually talk to them. When they actually know me and understand what I’m going for. Once they do why are guys allowed to go out in jerseys and look like trash, but girls can’t even go out in a T shirt? I wanted to know that, they love it. That’s also pretty cool, too. It keeps me from stopping. It keeps me going. make something cool that girls would want to go out in. I make things for guys and girls, which is the big thing about it, that anyone can wear it. You can still look cool Season: I read from the Envision Magazine article that you were inspired more by streetwear and alternative and different from everyone else. fashion trends. Are there any specific designers or Season: Are there any fashion trends that you feel are brands that you admire? 15 unique to Bloomington?
Krengel: Yeah, a lot. There’s Adidas and Nike and all those sports brands, stuff like that. Gucci’s dope, and so expensive and I can’t afford anything, but I feel like Gucci and all those top brands really push that line, like what’s fashionable. Like Gucci flip flops, what are those? Why are those so much nicer than the regular ones? If someone shows up in regular slides they’re going to be like “What the fuck are you doing?” but if they show up in Gucci flip flops it’s like “Okay, it’s fine, like they paid $200 for those” kind of thing, you know? Which is kind of weird. I really like Dickies, they’re not like a streetwear brand. Season: Are there any big brands that you feel have a strict artistic ethic that they adhere to? Krengel: Supreme, almost everything they make is “rare.” That’s why the value is so high, because there’s only X amount and their crowd is so big, everybody wants it, so they’ll pay a lot of money for it. I think they do a really good job. Also, the brand Mishka. They inspire me a lot. They’re a Russian street brand that’s based in New York.
They’re just wacky and wild. They’ve kind of adjusted to the times but at the same time haven’t changed at all. I really don’t know how they do it, I think it’s the people that wear it, the celebrities that wear it, how people hear about it, you know? I think Bathing Ape is pretty cool. I had only seen the guy stuff they had made, but when I was in California last summer in a women’s streetwear store, which I didn’t know existed, and they had these ladies’ bape hoodies that were so cool. Season: What’s your single favorite piece you’ve ever made? Krengel: I have this jacket that is like a varsity jacket, there’s three stripes here and the collar has three different stripes and the bottom has three stripes and it’s buttoned. It’s blue and swishy material. It just looks so legit, it pops, it’s in white. I always get compliments on it, people always try to buy it off me, and I’m like “okay, $400.” Until somebody offers me that $400 for it, I’m going to keep it.
Season: What advice would you give to those starting their own clothing line? Krengel: Just do it, just start. Show your friends, and if your friends like it, they’ll probably want it. And if they want it for free, give them the ones you messed up if they don’t want to pay for it. Because your friends should want to pay for it. Definitely just try and use your friends around you. Season: How can we at SEASON and our readers connect with you and support your craft? Krengel: You can connect with me on Instagram (@think.cool). You can DM me. I have a website also (https://www.thinkcoolchicago. com/), you can contact me on there. I love to do custom pieces for people too. That’s kind of why I got into it, because I want people to have different things. So if you come to me, I can make you something cool.
16
MOD
Stepping from the conformist we go in a different direction Changing the tide becoming the modernist
17
Photographer: Sara Mantich. Models: Catie Cook, Jessica Becker, Jack Boardman. Stylists: Mackie Schroeter, Sariah Borom, Arianne Dora, Catie Cook, Shaya Abbaspour. Merch Officers: Erin Huston , Jessica Becker, Beth Reynolds
18
In the last 10 years, conversations around gender and sexuality have made a steady and positive change. Once radical ideas like gender fluidity, sex reassignment and non-binarism are now generally seen to be common knowledge, and the amount of public figures identifying as trans or nonbinary have increased. Television shows, movies and other forms of media are showing more gender diversity than ever. Even in fashion, trans activists and artists are creating a space for themselves through modeling.
19
There is a delicious irony in trans individuals becoming models and muses in fashion, an industry that has always accepted only the most rigid beauty standards and gender roles. Even Victoria’s Secret Chief Marketer recently said that he would not allow trans models in his fashion shows because they don’t fit into the “fantasy” that the famous lingerie brand apparently represents (Out.com). However, his comment doesn’t seem to be stopping trans models from becoming extremely successful in the fashion industry.
Hari Nef, the first trans person to be signed to IMG Worldwide in 2015 (the same agency that boasts models like Gisele Bundchen and Gigi Hadid), has opened Gucci shows in Milan and starred in L’Oreal skincare campaigns. She has also recently embarked on a successful career in acting, starring in films like Assassination Nation, and as the recurring character Blythe on the popular Netflix show You.
21
Another trans model that has gained press is named Hunter Schafer, a 20-year-old North Carolina native, who began her activist career fighting the notorious “bathroom bill” that forced state residents to use the public bathrooms which matched the gender they were assigned at birth. Since then, Mx. Schafer has walked hundreds of runways and most recently starred in Vera Wang’s bridal campaign. She is not only a model but a visual artist, frequently posting sketchbook pages and handmade clothes. Her work seems to always be in dialogue with gender fluidity; her dream is to open a gallery in New York specifically for trans artists, and she is currently attending Central Saint Martins in London to create a genderless clothing line (NYT). Not only individual models, but designers themselves
are pushing for more inclusion of trans individuals in fashion. Most recently, Los Angeles designer Marco Marco featured all trans models for his September 2018 show, some of which included YouTube-famous Gigi Gorgeous and actress Trace Lysette. The designer said he wanted to “create a space to celebrate trans bodies” (Cosmopolitan). As small as the impact may seem, representation of trans individuals (especially in such an influential industry like fashion) has and will change the lives of men, women, and nonbinary people around the globe. Although there is still a significant lack of representation of trans and nonbinary individuals in popular media, these trailblazers will continue to pave the road for more representation in the future. Meagan Wilson 22
26
28
GLOBAL DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT DRESSEDUNDRESSED SPRING 2019
DressedUndressed, the duo comprised of T akeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato, continues to challenge gender roles in fashion with their Spring 2019 ready-towear collection. Their iconic deconstructed trousers once again made on appearance alongside two-buttoned neutral blazers in their edgy take on workwear. On one blazer the words ‘YOU ARE PRETTY’ are scrawled out in nearly incomprehensible penmanship, hidden underneath an orb containing an unidentified red liquid. The liquid slowly trickles down the blazer as the model
walks through the catwalk during Tokyo Fashion Week. DressedUndressed delivers yet again a genderless and minimalistic collection, but this season with even more simplistic perfection than the last. Kitazawa and Sato have mentioned in past interviews that they love to use black not only because of its elegance, but also “Black hides no flaws, commanding you to get all the details and materials right. That is why it is perfect for our clothes, designed with absolute
attention to detail.” Kitazawa has mentioned in interviews that separating the clothing by gender and size feels too stereotypical for their brand. He claims that the oversized clothing feels comfortable any time and on anyone. Their message is clear for the Spring ‘19 RTW as it is every collection: Be bold. Don’t be afraid to mix fabrics or wear androgynous clothing. Remember that no silhouette or pattern is off limits. Rin Mcnutt
30
SUMMER OF ‘77
Let the music take you Through each day and night party through this summer The best summer
31
Photographers: Sara Mantich, Brenden Spangler. Models: Jason Bell, Lawrence Williams, Jada Lucas, Charlie Kornblum, Autumn Siney, Hunter Pierce , Jeremy Trenta Stylists: Nishi Muna, Sariah Borom, Mackie Schroeter, Zee Brown, Catie Cook, Shaya Abbaspour, Varsha Anand, Rebecca White, Kate Mojica. Merch Officers: Karen Koak, Erin Huston, Jess Becker. Credit to Rod’s Barber Shop, SLCT Stock, and Urban Genius
34
37
39
40
42
44
45
46
47
49
HUMANS OF BLOOMINGTON BLOOMINGTON DRAG QUEENS Photographer: Erik Romero Models: Juniper Peron and Beeka Lovelace-Person
Every society has rules and norms, written and unwritten. Every society has expectations for how folks are supposed to look, act, speak, and dress, especially as it relates to gender. With origins in LGBT culture to subvert these gender expectations, drag queens are becoming increasingly visible, influential, and recognized in the mainstream fashion and beauty industries. What a queen chooses to wear (or not to wear) can speak vol51 umes to their artistic inspi
rations and their character’s personality.
house founded by Argenta Perón, the original show director at the Back Door, a Juniper Perón local queer bar in Blooming(Instagram @juniperperon) ton. According to Argenta Perón, who was the original Juniper Perón is no strangshowdirector at The Back er to Bloomington, having Door, gay bars Bullwinkles grown up in B’town herself (closed 2006) and Uncle and performing since 2017 E’s (closed New Years Eve, after being adopted into the 2013) used to be the main House of Perón. Her last venues for drag in Bloomingname Perón shows that she ton. The Back Door opened is part of a legacy of drag in 2013 to fill the gap that queens in Bloomington. was left behind by those two venues. Drag houses, someThe House of Perón is a drag times called drag families, are
groups of drag artists that teach and support one an other. A drag house is often led by a “drag mother” who adopts new queens into the family and teaches them relevant skills to their art. “If you have a drag mom, it’s like your mentor. It is somebody that guides you and teaches you how to do different things like sewing or hair or makeup. Because there are so many different aspects that go into being a drag queen... it’s just nice to have somebody that’s there to help do those different [things],” Juniper said. Elements of dance, comedy, music (live performance and/or lip-syncs), theater, and more can be incorporated into a queen’s act. Juniper’s first experience perfor-
ming in drag was Christmastime 2017 on December 22 shortly after being adopted into the House of Perón. With drag sisters named Paprika and Ginger Perón, Juniper knew she wanted a name that wouldn’t sound too out of place with spices. She took inspiration from the juniper berries that decorate Christmas trees in order to fit the theme with her sisters. Like her name, Juniper’s drag is flavorful and festive, drawing on a variety of pop culture figures like the band Florence and the Machine. She does her best to come across to audiences as “fun and happy,” and above all “human.” Juniper recognizes that she isn’t perfect and can’t do it all. “I definitely can’t dance, and I feel like that comes off as really endearing to other people
who can’t dance,” she said. Embracing her faults process in 2015 where she “put all the work in to helps her connect to the crowds that gather to make my [body shaping] pads, learn how to do see her perform. my makeup... getting a makeup routine and a face down that I actually enjoyed!” Beeka Lovelace-Perón Her first performance was later that Fall. Beeka’s (Instagram @beeka_lovelace) name is a reference to her passion for science, making a pun out of the word “beaker”. Out of Beeka Lovelace-Perón is also a part of the House drag, Beeka is currently pursuing a Masters in of Perón here in Bloomington. Originally from science. Grand Rapids, Michigan, Beeka first came to Bloomington for school. Her start into drag was While science isn’t always a focus of her drag somewhat unconventional compared to other performances, Beeka tries to “draw it in with queens. Salem Massacre, a Michigan based drag nerdy culture and little geeky things here and queen, is almost singularly responsible for leading there.” Lovelace wasn’t always part of Beeka’s Beeka to consider doing drag. drag name. Originally calling herself Beeka Darwin as a nod to Charles Darwin, the evolutionary “I started doing drag because I started going to scientist, she changed it to Lovelace after deshows with Salem, and Salem was just dragging ciding that she ought to do more to celebrate me out because I was the one who had the car! women in science. Lovelace comes from Ada I started going to shows and I was like ‘Actually, Lovelace, the 19th century mathematician who this is pretty f*****g cool! This is actually kind of is sometimes considered to be the world’s first interesting!’” computer programmer. Drag has since become very personal for Beeka. “I needed to fill a void, like a creative void in my life, and drag is such an eclectic thing where you learn how to do makeup and costuming and hair and even doing random other things you wouldn’t even think about doing for other stuff [in your life],” Beeka explained. In order for her to be confident enough to perform, she had to invest a lot of time and mental energy becoming proficient in many distinct artistic disciplines. “I had a Summer where I was learning about drag,” Beeka recalled. This was a months long
53
Beeka has done performances dressed as a mad scientist, as a school teacher lip syncing to “How to be a Heartbreaker” by Marina and the Diamonds, and once she even performed “The Periodic Table” from the viral YouTube video. Bold monochromatic looks are a staple in Beeka’s drag, sometimes conjuring images of superheroes, cartoons, and sci-fi characters. When you think about it, Beeka is practically the drag queen version of Ms. Frizzle, the cool science teacher everybody wants to go on a fieldtrip with. Abe Plaut
MARRY THE NIGHT
Take my hand I’ll take you to the dance floor Far from judgement Closer to your truth
55
Photographer: Erik Romero. Models: Bella Briones, Nishi Muna. Stylists: Nishi Muna, Zee Brown, Mikaela Blackwell, Catie Cook, Hannah Morrolf. Merch Officers: Karen Koak, Kelsey Rike, Kayla Mary Schutter. Hair & Makeup: Kennedy Keown & Autumn Brandt
56
57
58
59