Secret Walks Ibiza North 18 walks of extraordinary beauty revealed by forgotten pathways Rob Smith
c
a
b
Ibiza North Highlights
Perfect BBQ sardines near Sant Miquel
Sunset drumming at Benirràs beach
N.07
N.08
An ancient shrine called Es Culleram
N.11
d
A tantalising secret beach called Es Portitxol N.06
Portinatx
e
a
b e Cala d’Albarca - awe inspiring scenery N.05
g
c
h
Sant Joan
d Sant
f Mateu i
f
k
l Santa Gertrudis
Sant j Carles
Santa Eulària
Local wine tasting and festivals in Sant Mateu N.04
m g Sant Rafael
Eivissa
Almond blossom and clifftop paths in Santa Agnès N.01
h
Traditional island life in Sant Vicent
N.12
i
A pretty fishing port and impressive geology
N.14
k
j
A famous fisherman’s restaurant
N.15
The importance of water and three family restaurants N.16
l
Sleepy farms and fields in Santa Gertrudis N.17
m
A mysterious tunnel leading to a secret beach N.18
Secret Walks Ibiza North
Secret Walks Ibiza North by Rob Smith With additional texts by Martin Davies
This is an abridged preview of the printed book. The full book contains 192 colour pages and 18 walks of varying length and difficulty. All walk instructions in this preview have been obscured for online viewing.
First published by One More Grain Of Sand, 2015 info@onemoregrainofsand.com www.secretseeker.com www.onemoregrainofsand.com www.ibizawalkingassociation.com Edited by Martin Davies with Katie Halpin and Ulrike Humphreys Spanish translation by Eva Ríos German translation by Ulrike Humphreys Printed by Sterling, UK. Research and photography by Robert Smith Design by Ben Hoo and Robert Smith Maps by Dog’s Body Design, Chunning Chang, Joan Costa Bonet and Robert Smith
ONE MORE GRAIN OF SAND
All contents including text, photographs, maps and design © Robert A. L. Smith 2015, unless otherwise stated. Image on pp.14–15 produced in collaboration with the Arxiu d’Imatge i So Municipal d’Eivissa.AISME The moral right of Robert Smith to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act of 1988. The moral right of Martin Davies to be identified as the author of the Extra Step articles within this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act of 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from One More Grain Of Sand. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978 Help us update: Over two years, 3000km and numerous pairs of walking shoes have gone into making this guide the best it can be, but if you think something could be improved, an instruction could be clearer or you find the perfect pitstop to include in the next edition, we’d love to hear from you: info@onemoregrainofsand.com Publisher’s note: Many of the walks within this publication follow steep, rocky pathways which may be little used and are susceptible to erosion. Every effort has been made to provide sufficient warning where necessary. The publisher and author accept no responsibility for injuries or deaths that arise from following the routes featured in this book. You are responsible for your own safety – rely on your own assessment of whether a particular route is suitable for your abilities and whether it has deteriorated since publication of the book to a point where it is not safe. Place-names in this book, including on the maps, have been given in the local language, Ibicenco, a dialect of Catalan. Every effort has been made to trace copyright ownership and to obtain permission for reproduction of the Extra Steps images. If you believe you are the copyright owner, and we have not requested your permission, please contact us.
CONTENTS
KIT BAG
Introduction The Ibizan countryside code The island The climate Kit list Catalan or Spanish Bites, stings and other nasty things Getting around Ibiza road map How to use this book Icons and technical information Maps and map key Glossary The northern Extra Steps
THE WALKS
The northern Secret Walks Northern walking route map N.01 Santa Agnès South N.02 Santa Agnès Coastal N.03 Santa Agnès North N.04 Cala d’Albarca West N.05 Cala d’Albarca East N.06 Es Portitxol N.07 Sant Miquel N.08 Benirràs N.09 Punta de Xarracó N.10 Portinatx Peninsula N.11 Sant Vicent N.12 Sant Joan East N.13 Sant Joan South N.14 Pou des Lleó N.15 Sant Carles N.16 Sant Llorenç N.17 Santa Gertrudis North N.18 Siesta
16 17 20 30 36 44 56 66 76 86 94 104 110 118 128 138 146 154 162 172
BACK PACK
Tying knots: how to join routes together Loose ends: how to shorten routes Best walks for... About the author Martin Davies and Barbary Press Acknowledgements and special thanks
180 185 186 188 189 192
6 7 8 8 9 9 10 11 11 12 12 13 13 14
INTRODUCTION
Recent years have seen north Ibiza rise as a Mecca for those searching for a quieter holiday experience, and for good reason. The hills of the northwestern coastline and the farmland surrounding sleepy traditional villages make for glorious walking and exploring. Like the south, there are sites that will surprise you with the secrets of earlier civilisations. Worthy of note here is the Tanit Cave (Es Culleram), an ancient place of worship and sacrifice where it is believed priests rendered homage to the Carthaginian goddess of fertility as long ago as the 5th century BC. The northern part of Ibiza has more than its fair share of tiny secluded beaches and nooks to explore too. It even has its own iconic rock formation, the Benirràs stack, to rival the monolithic Es Vedrà. Our routes will lead you to viewpoints that etch themselves in your memory and will leave you enthralled by the beauty of this pine-clad isle. Turn your attention to the first two pages of each walk where we have described the routes and provided you with the technical information you will need before you head out into the wilderness. Also, be sure to take the time to read the ‘Extra Step’ articles. These short essays will take you on a journey through Ibiza’s history and provide an opportunity to find out more about this extraordinary island – a place often misread by the world’s media and waiting to take its rightful place as a holiday destination for nature lovers. Our final suggestion is to draw your attention to the recommended beaches and pitstops. These have been carefully selected from our other books, Secret Beaches and Secret Kitchen.
THE IBIZAN COUNTRYSIDE CODE
PROTECT Although allowed during the cooler part of the year, we would advise you not to make fires. There are parts of the island which have been severely damaged by forest fires started by tiny sparks. Charcoal barbecues are also firmly prohibited during the summer months. Try to leave no trace of your passing by. We would love to encourage you to pick up litter as well, if you see any. Nature on Ibiza is fragile and compromised every year by summer tourism. Please help it to recover and avoid damaging plants or animal habitats. Keep an eye on your canine friend if you have one, and please use a leash in areas where there is livestock.
RESPECT There are many public-access caminos and tracks used to access homes, many of which cross private land. Even if they look disused, please don’t block lanes when you park and stick to the path when walking. Ibiza is open to ramblers and while most island residents love to help and chat, please don’t trespass on obviously private property. It’s always best to close any gates you go through – or leave them open if that is how you found them.
THE ISLAND
Ibiza is the third largest of the Balearic Islands, small enough to drive from tip to tip in about an hour, yet large enough to get pleasantly lost in. For fiends of fact, the island is split into five municipalities, it’s about 572 square kilometres, 40 by 20km, sits around 80km off the coast of Valencia, the highest peak is 476m above sea level and the length of the coastline, with all its beaches, bays and inlets is an incredible 210km.
SANT JOAN DE LABRITJA SANT ANTONI DE PORTMANY SANTA EULĂ€RIA DEL RIU
SANT JOSEP DE SA TALAIA
EIVISSA
THE CLIMATE
Ibiza is relatively temperate and it is safe to walk at any time of year, so long as you are properly prepared. During the summer months (mid-June to mid-September) it is best to walk in the early morning or late evening, as afternoon temperatures can peak at over 35 degrees. Make sure you take plenty of water and protect yourself from the sun with a hat and sunscreen. During the winter months (mid-December to mid-February) the weather can do anything. One day you will be walking in shorts and T-shirts, the next you may need to wear a jumper or raincoat. Spring and autumn are usually perfect walking weather, but it can definitely get hot and there is always a chance of a good deluge. Our graphs below give you an idea of the temperature and precipitation averages to expect. AVERAGE RAINFALL
AVERAGE AIR TEMPERATURE
(MM)
AVERAGE WATER TEMPERATURE
(C)
70
40
35
60
35
30
50
30
25
40
25
20
30
20
15
20
15
10
10
10
5
0
5 J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
(C)
0 J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
KIT LIST
At any time of year it’s best to prepare for any eventuality. Always carry plenty of water. On hot days, a rough guide is about half a litre for each hour you are walking. We recommend walking boots, but during summer trainers with a good gripping sole will suffice.
SUMMER
SPRING/AUTUMN
Water and lots of it Sun hat Sunscreen Lightweight clothes
Water Sunscreen Sun hat Clothes for any situation
WINTER Water Sunscreen Extra layer Showerproof coat
CATALAN OR SPANISH
We have used Ibicenco, a dialect of the Catalan language, in our texts and maps. This will mean that all the place names you see in our book will match road signs and local directions. Just in case you are supplementing our book with a guidebook or map that is in Spanish, here is a list of the more common Catalan names with their Spanish equivalents:
CATALAN SPANISH Eivissa Sant Antoni (de Portmany) Santa Eulària (des Río) Sant Carles (de Peralta) Sant Joan (de Labritja) Es Canar Sant Josep (de sa Talaia) Sant Llorenç (de Balafia) Sant Rafel (de sa Creu) Sant Jordi (de ses Salines) Sant Miquel (de Balansat) Santa Agnès (de Corona) Platja d’en Bossa Platja de ses Salines Platjes de Comte
Ibiza San Antonio Santa Eulalia San Carlos San Juan Es Caná San José San Lorenzo San Rafael San Jorge San Miguel Santa Inés Playa d’en Bossa Playa de las Salinas Cala Conta
BITES, STINGS AND OTHER NASTY THINGS
Ibiza is a relatively safe island compared to other holiday destinations with warm climates. There are no venomous insects, snakes or dangerous animals.
JELLYFISH If you swim regularly around Ibiza, you are likely to come across a jellyfish or two. The most common jellyfish you are likely to encounter is the Pelagia noctiluca – the ‘mauve stinger’ – which, while painful, does not pose any serious health risks.
SPIDERS Spiders will often spin webs between vegetation across pathways. Keep your eye out for these on our longer, more secluded walks.
SEA URCHINS These are common around the shores and in the rock pools of Ibiza. They’re easy to spot, so take care not to step on them – an urchin’s spike in your foot isn’t much fun on the dance-floor.
SNAKES Whether you believe the legends or not, there are no poisonous snakes living wild in Ibiza. Non-venomous snakes, however, arrived about twelve years ago in olive trees imported for garden centres.
DOGS Our canine friends can get very protective when walkers are near their territory. Their natural instinct compels them to bark aggressively to ward off any potential threat. Dog bites are extremely rare though and most dogs will not approach closer than a few metres.
GETTING AROUND Outside the summer months public transport is very hit-and-miss. Infrequent bus services run to the main villages and some can be full, meaning they might not stop for you. The website for routes and timetables is www.ibizabus.com but we strongly recommend you hire a car, moped or bicycle. There are several websites where off-season you can rent for as little as €10 a day, worth every penny considering how much more you will be able to discover with the freedom of your own transport.
IBIZA ROAD MAP
Cala d’en Serra
PM811
es Figueral PM804
PMV804-1
PM812
C733 PM810
Platges de Comte
PMV812-1
PMV812-2 PM810
E30 C733 C731
PMV810-1
Puig d’en Valls
E10 E20 PM803
PM801-1
Platja d’en Bossa 5km
es Vedrà
2 miles
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Important – read instructions carefully and stay on track Ibiza is a fantastic place to walk and explore and the routes within this book will take you to areas of the island that are wild and seldon trodden. At regular intervals we ask you to look for small, specific markers in order to find a pathway. This means you must be aware of your surroundings and make sure you fully read the instruction you are following, and ideally the subsequent one as well, in order to not get lost. This is all the more important when walking and chatting with friends and family as it is easy to get distracted, misjudge distances and miss turnings. Important for GPS users – estimated distances within the instructions Rather than giving the exact distances recorded by GPS between reference points in the instructions, we have given rough distances and adjusted them very slightly according to the terrain. On rocky terrain it will always feel like you have walked further than you actually have, and so we have accounted for this. The walk durations are based on an easy pace of 3km/hr with no stopping time.
ICONS AND TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Each walk has a series of icons that will give you important information about the route. Below is what they mean and how you should interpret them. 167m
225m
Max height The maximum height the walk reaches above sea level
Total height gain The total uphill walking during the walk
5 Panoramic views rated 1 to 5
E
18km
Walk difficulty E = Easy M = Moderate H = Hard X = Extreme
Walk length We have rounded this up to the nearest km
5 Family suitability rated 1 to 5
5hrs
Walk duration This is based on a leisurely walking speed without stops
5 Nature and beauty rated 1 to 5
MAPS AND MAP KEY The maps we have created for the book should be used to give you an idea of where you are along the route and a sense of your surroundings. It is not possible to show every road and pathway at the scale we use so don’t worry if you see turnings not marked on the map. Simply follow the detailed written instructions. Walking route & instruction w numbers
Wide asphalt road Narrow asphalt or wide dirt road
q
Narrow dirt road, track or pathway
Optional extra or short-cut route
R
Start point
Pitstop / restaurant
Church
Chiringuito
Watch-tower
Chapel
Viewpoint
Picnic spot
Spring / Well
Car park
Lighthouse
GLOSSARY Here are a few useful Spanish terms you’ll come across in this book and on the walks:
SPANISH ENGLISH camino coto privado de caza chiringuito finca carrer (Catalan) / calle ayuntamiento bodega bocadillo tostada café caleta hierbas alioli
small dirt road private hunting reserve beach bar, often serving food traditional country house street town hall wine bar or cellar filled roll or baguette open-faced toasted sandwich coffee with cinnamon and Brandy herb and aniseed liqueur garlic mayonnaise
THE NORTHERN EXTRA STEPS
The Extra Step articles in this walking book cover a range of subjects that include nature, history, architecture, ethnography and more. Written by Martin Davies of Barbary Press, these short, accessible essays complement each walk with a little slice of island life. We hope they will make your time exploring Ibiza even more enjoyable.
Limelight
p.27
Wine Fever
p.52
The Ammonites of Es Amunts
p.62
The Crane Dance
p.72
Lime kilns and how they worked
Sant Mateu and the Pityusan wine renaissance
Fossil-hunting in the northern cliffs
Ibizan traditions in Sant Miquel
Land of Milk and Honey
p.100
The Goddess and her Shrine
p.114
Black Gold
p.124
The Millennial Olive
p.134
Triassic Park
p.142
Finca Fabulosa
p.158
A Slippery Tale
p.168
All abuzz in Ibiza’s hives
Es Culleram and Tanit
Charcoal: Ibiza’s forgotten little earner
Ibiza’s ancient groves and their golden harvest
Tagomago and the formation of Ibiza
Ibiza’s traditional architecture
Snakes, Ibiza’s soil and the truth
Can Jordi, Santa Agnès, ca. 1920 Narcís Puget.AISME
THE NORTHERN SECRET WALKS
Santa Agnès South
w
Santa Agnès Coastal
e
Santa Agnès North
r
Cala d’Albarca West
t
Cala d’Albarca East
y
Es Portitxol
Medium – 11km – p.66
u
Sant Miquel
Medium – 9.5km – p.76
Po To
i
Benirràs
Medium – 11km – p.86
S Ag
o
Punta de Xarracó
Easy – 3.5km – p.94
a
Portinatx Peninsula
Easy – 4.5km – p.104
s
Sant Vicent
Medium – 7.5km – p.110
Es Cub
d
Sant Joan East
Hard – 15km – p.118
Cala Platja Vedella Cube
f
Sant Joan South
Hard – 15.5km – p.128
g
Pou des Lleó
h
Sant Carles
j
Sant Llorenç
k
Santa Gertrudis North
1*
Siesta
Medium – 8.5km – p.20
The limestone trail and the Buscastell valley
Hard – 3km – p.30
Towering cliffs and remote ruins
Extreme – 5km – p.36
High above the orchards
Hard – 16km – p.44
The mysterious sanctuary and clifftop views
Medium – 6km – p.56
The giants’ playground
The tear-drop beach and the clifftop views The secret beach circuit And a beach called Moon Hidden coves and crumbling beehives The lighthouse ramble A shrine in the forest
A church-to-church circular #1 The Serra Grossa and views over the Morna valley The watch-tower and views of Tagomago Cala Mastella and the forgotten vineyard Wells and restaurants A church-to-church circular #2
The secret tunnel and coastal views
C Sa
Medium – 4.5km – p.138
Medium – 9km – p.146
Easy – 3.5km – p.154
Medium – 18km – p.162
Hard – 10km – p.172
Cala Bassa
Cala de Xarraca Port de Sant Miquel Cala d’Albarca
Ses Margalides
ty
e
w
Santa Agnès
q
Es Portitxol
r
a
Portinatx
i o
u
d
Sant Joan
Sant Mateu
Sant Llorenç
j
Sant Antoni
Santa Gertrudis
Es Canar
l
Platja de S. Eulària Cala Llonga
Jesús
Eivissa
Sant Josep
Sant Jordí
s’Estanyol
Talamanca
bells Platja d’en Bossa
des ells
Ses Salines Port des Jondal
Sa Caleta Platja des Cavallet
Platja de ses Salines
s’Espardell s’Espalmador
Pou des Lleó
h
g
Cala Llenya
Platja des Canar
Santa Eulària
Sant Rafel
Sant gustí
Cala de S. Vicent
Cala de Boix
Siesta
ort des orrent
s
Es Figueral
Sant Carles
k
Cala alada
Forada
Sant Vicent
f
Sant Miquel
Can Germà
Cala d’en Serra
N 4 km 2 miles
01
272m
Santa Agnès South
The limestone trail and the Buscastell valley
239m
M
8.5km
3hrs
N.01 S. JOAN
IBIZA
S. EULÀRIA
S. ANTONI EIVISSA S. JOSEP
This walk in the Santa Agnès area highlights the history of lime and charcoal production, once important industries on Ibiza. Many trails and pathways were originally laid down by kiln workers who needed to access the easily quarried limestone. On many other walks in this book you will see the remains of thriving woodland activity, but none has so many in such good condition. Our route takes you up onto a high ridge that passes over Puig d’en Frit at 231m, where you can take in breathtaking views right across the island, and then descends on an old trail passing seven kilns, no less – the last few in extremely good condition. The walk then makes its way through the lush Buscastell valley back to the starting-point.
5
2
5
200
Santa Agnès South
01
The limestone trail and the Buscastell Valley sa Tanca Puig Verd
SANTA AGNÈS DE CORONA
R
200 ès gn aA ant S a ateu Sant M C. de
Puig d’en Coca
200
250
2$ 2^
2& q
2!
2@ 2#
150
2%
N.04
2)
250
w
Puig d’en Francolí
Puig d’en Blai
; l
200
e
Ses Marrades
k j Es Broll h
r t y u
-1 -812 PMV
250
-1) 821 VM (P
Puig d’en Frit
S.15
g
i
200
100
o
150 150
To Bu rre sc nt d as e te ll
a f
s
d
S.15
N 400m 1,000ft
Puig des Sant
CLIMBS
Puig d’en Secorrat 200
150
275m 225m 175m 125m 75m
1km
2km
3km
4km
5km
6km
7km
8km
9km
100
GETTING THERE A
The easiest way for us toprinted describebook how to for find full our start point is to begin See at Santa Agnès church. Drive away from the small village down the walk directions long straight road heading south. Soon you see turnings for Sant Antoni and Sant Mateu, ignore these. Just after these turnings the road will start to climb uphill and bend to the left. Keep following and after a few hundred metres you reach a right-hand bend. Turn off here onto a dirt road. There is a flat dirt parking area and wider sections of the road where you can park without blocking.
THE WALK
Starting the walk, you should follow the dirt road leading you away from the main road. After about 500m you reach a junction. Turn right, and Seeaprinted book off foronfull after about 250m take pathway leading your right. It starts as a narrow dirt road and there is a bit of a rocky clearing. After about 100m walk directions it becomes a path and you begin heading steeply uphill.
w
After just 150m of uphill walking you will reach a summit with views all around and especially down behind you to the almond groves of Santa Agnès.
e
As the path along the ridge continues, more vistas open up across the Sant Antoni valley to the southern hills of Sant Josep, even to Ibiza Town.
r
Just on a small bend we see our first lime kiln. A very old and basic example, demonstrating how diverse in size and construction they were.
t
Keep going for about 300m along this undulating ridge, and just before you start to descend, soak up the last view of Sant Mateu to your left and across the centre of the island to the sea beyond Ses Salines.
y
On a small hillock on the descending route is our second kiln. This must have been well used, as the surrounding earth is still black with ash and charcoal after all these years.
u
A further 150m along the trail, just off to your left and about 15m into the bushes is our third kiln.
i
A little distance after a steep downhill section over smooth rocks, look to your right for the most impressive and well-constructed kiln so far. Make sure you have a good look inside at where the walls have been whitened by the intense heat.
e e
N.01
01
Santa Agnès South
The limestone trail and the Buscastell Valley
o
The fifth limekiln is as big as the previous one, but the fine stoking hatch and strongly buttressed wall point to experienced builders. From here on the path is fairly level and very wide, hinting at the use of carts printed book full to transport the See ‘cooked’ limestone out for of the valley
1)
The next two kilns are even bigger and more impressive, the second resembling a small building as you approach. The front above the stoking hatch has collapsed to reveal the deep interior and a large diameter of over 3m. It is possible to see that this kiln has been built into the hillside itself, with a rear wall carved out of the surrounding rock.
s
After 2.5km in total of walking along this historic trail, the pathway widens next to a beautiful wild grove of carob and almond trees, turning into a track. This gradually becomes a dirt road, and after about 250m you reach a crossroads. Go left and start to follow another dirt road.
1@
This little dirt road ends at Can Fietona. Just before the house go left very briefly onto a concrete driveway and then right onto a small path leading between low stone walls.
f
Follow for 150m down to the dry river bed, over to the other side, and then up past a house on a concrete path. After a couple of bends you reach a dirt road. Look left here to see one of the rare watermills on the island – at the house on the left called Ca’n Max.
g
Turn left and follow the dirt road for a few hundred metres, then 50m after a house on the right where you see an impressive bridge over the dry stream bed, go right to follow the water channel alongside a low stone wall. Continue for about 200m, using the path when it appears and the channel when it peters out.
1%
Keep following the channel, even when canes almost block your way. You will reach a point where you see the water from Es Broll spilling down another small channel. Go over the little bridge and up onto the terrace. Go right and climb over a third channel onto the terrace next to the recently restored mill. Walk past it and pick up the path that leads steeply uphill in front of the high wall.
j
At the top of this short uphill section go left past the mill roof onto a grassy terrace, perfect for a picnic. Here is also the Es Broll water source. See Not to Miss opposite.
walk directions
N.01
NOT TO MISS Es Broll (‘The Source’) Walk across the picnic terrace to the far side and peek over the wall where the irrigation channel flows under it. Just on the other side you will see the spring’s source – Es Broll – looking in fact, like a deep brimming well. Old wives’ tales are told about the healing qualities of the water which bursts out the ground at this spot. But the only life-giving property is manifested in the lush and fertile valley all around, as even in summer, fresh water gushes from this special Ibizan spring.
k l ; 2) 2!
131
THE EXTRA STEP Limelight Lime kilns and how they worked Thanks to its chalky soil and dense forests, Ibiza was once the perfect place for making lime, a key ingredient in mortar, the substance that held buildings together from the time of the Romans to the advent of cement. Slaked lime or whitewash (calç) was also the standard disinfectant for interiors during millennia, while rainwater cisterns were purified by throwing in unslaked lime. Whitewashing exteriors was a practice that swept Ibiza a mereSee two hundred ago,for butfull it gave rise in turn to an printedyears book enduring nickname. In September 1912 Santiago Rusiñol summed up the article magic of Dalt Vila for those arriving by sea: “Suddenly, as if a ray of light has seared your vision, there stands before you a hillside of houses of such pristine whiteness that it feels as if you are opening your eyes on an unknown light.” His Illa Blanca articles were written in the wake of a second visit the following spring. But how exactly does the many-sided substance come into being? The story starts with the compressed mollusc shells that account for the abundant calcium in our rocks. These yield two kinds of lime, one for mortar, calç negra, and a more expensive type used in whitewashing, calç blanca. Both were made by cooking rocks for up to five days and nights in circular ‘flare’ kilns, particularly numerous in Santa Agnès thanks to its hard stone (pedra viva) and endless supply of brushwood and pine. The demand for building mortar dried up in the early 1960s, while whitewash fell victim to acrylic paint in the 1980s. By 1990 limestone firing had joined the long list of defunct woodland industries, the empty kilns standing as mute witness to a once thriving practice. Their long-vanished key feature was the stone vault in the middle of the rendered ‘pot’, which rested in turn on a circular stone ledge. Below this domelike structure was the fire cavity, stoked by three men working in shifts. Embers, fuel and flames filled the half-buried olla (pot), while the upper part of the cylinder was crammed with its limestone charge, rocks to be transformed into cooked lime ‘shells’. A final cap of flagstones helped retain heat. The task, carried out during the blasting Mediterranean summer, was as demanding as delicate, but it was leavened by something quite magical as darkness fell. Blowing on a triton shell, stokers would invite all within earshot to assist them, bringing music and dance for much-needed relief. All across Ibiza these impromptu gatherings were lit by the will-o’-the-wisp glow of active kilns, a party with a purpose that formed the highlight of dreamlike midsummer nights. Lime kiln with sunshade, 1963, Robert Cairns © Lisa Cairns
N.01
THE PITSTOP Sa Palmera This a traditional restaurant in the centre of Santa Agnès that fills with locals at any time of year. Make sure you ask the waiter or owner for recommendations as he will invariably offer what he feels the best, most popular dish or describe one of the fresh and tantalising daily specials. 971 80 50 20
1&
After picnicking or resting, head up the steps that lead uphill from printed book fullpath, then left onto the corner of theSee terrace, go right on thefor small walk immediately directionsright to head uphill on a the track, then almost well-defined track.
1*
Follow for 300m and ignore the track leading off to the right about half way. Soon the track levels and you pass ruins of a house on your left.
1(
After a further 150m you meet a dirt road. Turn left, then after 150m when you meet a wider dirt road turn right.
2)
After 300m and a long straight section, turn left onto a well-defined dirt road on the left. There is a driveway on the right just before the turning. After about 750m you meet an asphalt road. Go straight ahead (left).
2!
Keeping to the left-hand side, follow the asphalt road for 200m, then turn left onto a small dirt road that slopes up at the start.
2@
After only 20m look for the path that leads up the steep bank on your right onto a terrace. You will need to scramble up two of these banks at the beginning, quite difficult when they’re wet. After these steep ones, the rest are easier – follow up several more of varying heights. After climbing onto about six terraces in quick succession, follow the path left and along a terrace, then to the right and uphill towards some woods.
N.01
2#
Once in the woods, make your way uphill for a short section. Then make sure you follow indistinctbook path tofor thefull left that leads down over Seetheprinted low rocks to a flat area. Continue past a high broken wall and then up walk directions a slope onto a terrace to leave the wooded area. This path is now much more distinct.
2$
The path will wind out along the terrace and then turn back on itself, working uphill over several more low terraces and back towards the woods. At the woods again, for a few metres follow the path down the slope and then to the left for 25m. Then let it lead you left and out of the woods to work uphill over terraces once again.
2%
This will now lead you to the top of the hill. At the top is a wall – do not climb over this where it is broken. Instead go left to where you meet a proper opening in the wall.
2^
Walk through the opening and keep straight ahead. There will be trees nearby on the right. Walk for 50m then join the dirt road going straight ahead. Do not go right.
2&
Ignoring the first smaller dirt road on the left, keep going for about 400m on this little dirt road / track. When you meet a wider dirt road go straight ahead (left) uphill for a further 100m, and you will start to recognise it as the dirt road you walked along at the start.
04
368m
Cala d’Albarca West
The mysterious sanctuary and clifftop views
323m
H
16km
5hrs
N.04 S. JOAN
IBIZA
S. EULÀRIA
S. ANTONI EIVISSA S. JOSEP
Cala d’Albarca is a must for any nature lover. The huge semi-circular bay with its mysterious depths is overlooked by sheer limestone cliffs that provide a challenge for rock climbers from around the world. Secret Beaches: Ibiza, has a route down to the small, rocky beach located at the foot of these cliffs, but for walkers we have chosen a more inspiring – and pretty – route that includes a viewpoint chosen centuries ago by residents who were not there to admire the view but something more serious – to keep an eye out for marauding invaders. This is a long walk with a couple of fairly steep uphill sections. We have rated it as ‘hard’ but it shouldn’t be too much of a challenge for an experienced walker.
5
2
5
Cala d’Albarca West
04
Morro des Cap The mysterious sanctuary and clifftop views
Cap des Mossons Punta de ses Torretes
Na Coloms
Racó Verd Davall es Alls Ses Torres d’en Lluc
50
h k l
j
Es Alls
250
200
y
300
r e
200
250
Pla d’Albarca
Puig d’en Jaume
2)
w R
Pla de Sant Gelabert
Puig Verd
nt e C. d
200
Sa
200
V-812 teu a San PM Ma ta Agnès (
250
Puig d’en Francolí 250
CLIMBS
2$ 2%
2@ 2#
SANT MATEU D’ALBARCA Sant Miquel
Puig d’en Tonió 300
804-1 PMV-
2! 200
Puig d’en Rotavella
q 3) 2(
) -1
Santa Agnès
200
250
Puig d’en Guillermí
t
Puig d’en Pau de Dalt
;
250
u
Campvell
Puig d’en Can Racó Pujolet
Puig d’en Cires
Racó de sa Punta 150
s d gf 350
100
Cala d’Albarca
a
o i
Cap des Rubió
N
2*
2^ 2&
400m 1,000ft
150
N.01
150
Serra des Forn Nou
350m 300m 250m
Puig d’en Frit
200m 150m 100m
2km
4km
6km
Es Broll
8km
10km
12km
14km
16km
150
GETTING THERE A
The start point isSee in theprinted small village of Sant Mateu, which is marked on book for full all island maps. walk In summer there are two buses from Ibiza Town, one directions in the morning, one in the evening. (During winter you should check ibizabus.com.) If you arrive by car, park anywhere near the church in Sant Mateu.
THE WALK
ď ą
Face the church from the bus stop opposite, turn left and follow the road downhill, passing our pitstop, Can Cires, after 50m.
w
Walk past the cemetery on the second left bend after this, about walkand directions 350m after Can Cires, take the dirt road on your right that follows a row of telegraph poles.
e
This little track takes you through beautiful pear orchards alive with humming bees and dancing butterflies. After about 1km, continue as the track turns to a pathway and then go left onto an asphalt road.
r
After only 20m on asphalt, turn onto the first rocky dirt road on the right. Follow this to bear right between stone walls after 40m. Then keep following up and into the woods.
t y
Ignore driveways and the first pronounced dirt road on your right.
u
This track winds along the hillside with tantalising glimpses of the incredible Cala d’Albarca between the trees. After about 300m go left at the fork and follow this as it curves left into the trees.
i
This small woodland path will wind down into a hidden valley where terraces crumble and the forest is abundant. Then back up to the other side. After about 600m of following this path you reach a junction at the top of a short ascent. There should be a large cairn here. Remember this junction for your return. Go right at the junction.
See printed book for full
e e
Soon you reach an area of ancient terraces and enclosed gardens run wild, untended for many decades. The effect is beautiful and you will know when you have arrived here. Look for the dirt track on your right and follow.
N.04
04
Cala d’Albarca West
The mysterious sanctuary and clifftop views
o
To reach the Torres (see Not to Miss), after 100m a smaller path splits off to the left – there should be cairns and painted arrows here. This path will bend to the right to run alongside an old wall. After about 100m the See printed book for full path crosses the wall. Instead of following it, walk left and the Torres ruins will come intowalk view. directions
1)
To visit our recommended viewpoint and picnic spot above Cala d’Albarca, keep going past the turning for the Torres in the previous instruction and carry on straight ahead past old walls and along terraces for about 250m. When you reach it, walk past the old shepherd’s hut and downhill slightly to the cliffs.
s
After picnicking or visiting the Torres, go back to the junction we asked you to remember in Instruction 8. Go straight on here instead of turning left which would take you back the way you came. The path quickly starts to rise. When you reach another fork, go left. After a stiff uphill climb, it levels then undulates until you reach a property boundary.
1@
Veer left to follow the property boundary wall, then right at the fork to keep close to the wall.
f
At the corner of the property boundary turn right to keep following the wall. When you reach a camino go left, uphill. After a further 250m, when you meet another dirt road, go right.
g
After only about 50m on this dirt road take the first track on the right. Then, after another 50m go diagonally left across a clearing where you should see some timber posts that have been cut back to almost ground level. Look for and join the small path that leads into the woods here. You are now heading west.
1%
After about 350m you will ascend to the top of a hill for fantastic views across the island to the top of Es Vedrà and at times even mainland Spain.
1^
After this, descend to a flat stretch of about 100m on a terrace and at the fork, go right, downhill. You will now be on a wide track. Then, after about 300m go left just before you reach a flat open area.
1&
When you reach another clearing on a corner after 200m, walk across the clearing and pick up the small path. Follow this 50m there and back to another incredible viewpoint.
ď Ź 1(
Returning to the route after the viewpoint, walk downhill.
2)
Turn left onto the asphalt road, then after 150m turn right onto a dirt road heading south. (Ignore the first turn which is a small track.)
2!
Follow this old farm road through peaceful farmland for about 2.5km, crossing straight over an asphalt road half-way.
2@
About 1km after you cross the asphalt road (roughly 100m after some woods adjoin the road on both sides) turn left onto a smaller dirt road just by an old electrical box.
2#
After about 100m fork left then fork left again after just 10m. (For an Optional Extra to Es Broll turn right just before the first fork, see p.54)
2$
Follow now for 300m through woods and then fork left again to start walking up a small hill.
2%
After 50m you exit the woods and the route takes you alongside fields and between some farm buildings.
2^
After the farm, you wind along the edge of more woods for about 250m and then meet a dirt road. Go right and walk along with a wall on your left.
2& 2*
After 150m fork left when you meet another dirt road.
2(
Go past a junction with an asphalt road after 20m, then after 200m at the second dirt road on your left fork off and carry straight on this road for 150m.
3)
Turn right when you meet the first dirt road on your right. When you reach the asphalt road, turn left for the pitstop Can Cires, right for the church and your car.
Follow this now for almost 1km. The track becomes a quiet dirt road See printed book for full that winds through terraced meadows of flowers and long grass, past walk the lovingly restored Candirections Pujolet (an agroturismo hotel) until you arrive at an asphalt road.
After several bends and about 400m of walking you will see a slightly smaller dirt road heading uphill on the left. It is actually straight ahead, as there is a right-hand bend in the road you are on. A driveway also comes in from the left at this junction. Go up the dirt road ahead of you and follow straight for just under 1km until you meet an asphalt road where you should go left.
N.04
THE EXTRA STEP Wine Fever Sant Mateu and the Pityusan wine renaissance In 2014, commercial winemaking on Ibiza celebrated a rather special birthday: twenty-one eventful years. From humble beginnings in 1993, there are now four island bodegas, plus two more on Formentera, producing between them a score of vintages, several of which are served in select establishments from Germany to Japan. French and Galician oenologists have joined home-grown experts, with each winery bringing something distinctive to the table. All areSee passionate about local for conditions, printed book full the proximity of hills to sea bringing daily mists to keep vines happily hydrated. Rich red earth article and vital minerals strengthen roots in subtle ways, but what makes Ibizan wine outstanding is the survival of ancient gene banks thanks to the rare monastrell grape, introduced by Phoencian farmers. Ibizan viticulture has had its highs and lows, but one surprise is the extent to which wine was exported to the mainland in ancient times. Extensive finds of Ebusitan amphorae and their lees are supported by excavations in Ibiza Town and north of Santa Gertrudis, uncovering the tell-tale trenches dug by Roman winemakers. Even under Islamic rule, Idris al-Sabini, one of the foremost writers of 11th century al-Andalus, extolled Ibiza’s fine wine in his oft-quoted poem ‘The Goblets’. A 1780s government scheme to boost Pityusan agricultural exports led to the planting of vines on a massive scale, but successive plagues in 1834, 1851 and 1891 devastated these promising vineyards. During the last epidemic, the sandy soil of Sant Agustí kept at bay the dreaded American phylloxera louse, whose larvae attacked root systems across the island, as well as Europe. Almonds became the new cash crop, although Ibicenco farmers continued pressing imported grapes from the Spanish mainland. In 1991, Sant Mateu inaugurated its annual ‘Festa de Vi Pagès’, which takes place on the second Saturday of December. Up to thirty Ibicenco farmers offer up their latest vintage, alongside sobrasada and botifarró. A truly authentic celebration, tailor-made for connoisseurs of Ibiza’s rural past. Sant Mateu has also been the cradle of a second wine renaissance, spearheaded by individuals with true expertise in catering and hostelry. In 1993, Joan Bonet of Sa Cova decided to mature the local vintage in oak barrels with due attention to temperature and acidity. Antonio Costa of nearby Can Maymó followed suit in 1995, and Can Rich on Sant Antoni plain became a third player in 1997. Latest on the scene is Totem Wines, launched in 2007 by Burgundian Laurent Frésart (‘Wine is my religion’) and two associates. Their cleverly branded Ibizkus red and rosado, using grapes from plots all around the island, have secured second slot in terms of volume (after Can Rich) and make up 75% of the island’s wine exports. The future, to coin a phrase, looks rosy! Colonnade with grape vines 1935, Antonio Ferrer Viñas © José Ferrer Gotarredona
N.04
NOT TO MISS Ses Torres d’en Lluc Thought to be part of a defensive wall that completes a naturally fortified clifftop stronghold, little is certain about this site. Archaeological exploration has not revealed any reliable dating and there are conflicting theories as to who might have built and used it. Most experts are of the opinion that it was an elaborate shelter where island residents could protect themselves while external forces stormed the rest of the island. Others believe it might be the remains of a last stronghold of the Moors before they were ousted completely from the island, although the minimal amount of fertile land within the enclosure hints that it would not have been suitable for prolonged occupancy.
OPTIONAL EXTRA TO ES BROLL In Instruction 23, just before forking left, go right onto a well-defined track. After 150m you will pass a derelict finca on your right, after which you should fork left and the track starts to take you downhill. At the T-junction after 50m go left to keep walking downhill, round a bend to another T-junction. Go left and then on the next bend walk onto the terrace on the right and turn to page 25 for a description of this celebrated water source.
THE PITSTOP Can Cires Situated right next to the start and end point of the walk, this restaurant is one of our favourites in the book. The owner/chef has Alsatian roots and the menu reflects this. Amongst the high-quality meat and fresh salads you will find the house speciality – tarte flambée, a perfectly cooked thin and crispy pizza-style dish that is perfect for sharing as a starter or else as a main course. 971 80 55 51. cancires.com
N.04
06
314m
Es Portitxol
The tear-drop beach and clifftop views
462m
M
11km
4hrs
N.06 S. JOAN
IBIZA
S. EULÀRIA
S. ANTONI EIVISSA S. JOSEP
Es Portitxol is one of the finest ‘secret' beaches on Ibiza. A thin channel of deep seawater cuts through cliffs to a nearly perfect circular bay. Fishermen’s huts occupy two segments along its shore, and at the end of the summer it’s a popular place for locals to sample the year’s vi pagès (a semi-fermented wine, almost sweet grape juice). Our route is as sublime as the beach itself, following small tracks through verdant pinewoods to clifftop pathways. Our pitstop is the classy Na Xamena hotel, perched on the very edge of a high sea cliff, looking west over the Mediterranean towards the Spanish mainland. We have rated the route medium difficulty but be aware there is a substantial climb after the beach.
5
2
5
Es Portitxol
06
100
The tear-drop beach and clifftop views
Punta de sa Creu
200
Cingle de sa Sal 150
N 100
500m 1,000ft
Punta d’en Palerm
Cap des Rubió
Penyal de s’Àguila
Cap de sa Galera
150
Racó de 50 na Xemena
1&
100
r
Es Portitxol
t y u N.05
na Xemena
1^
e
50
1( l w
q
N.07
Puig Pelat 200
1%
Illa Blanca
i
Puig des Mossons
N.07
o 250
s
a
Puig de sa Paret
d f
150
g 200
R
250
C. a el iqu tM San
CLIMBS 250
200
300m 250m 200m 150m 100m 50m 0m
1km
2km
3km
4km
5km
6km
7km
8km
9km
10km 11km
GETTING THERE A
Start in Sant Miquel and drive towards Sant Mateu, following the signs.
See printed book for full ignoredirections the left turn to Sant Mateu. Follow the road B After just over 1kmwalk and signs to Illa Blanca for around 3km.
C
Just before Illa Blanca you climb a steep, winding hill. At the top, follow the road around to the left.
D
Drive down through the housing development until the asphalt road becomes extremely potholed and you can go no further. Leave your car in the dirt parking area on the left.
THE WALK e e
ď ą w e
Starting at the parking area, walk downhill on the potholed road.
See printed book for full walk directions Keep going for about 300m to a junction where you should go left. After a further 300m of downhill walking you will walk alongside a high rock wall on your left. At the sharp right-hand bend where the wall ends, continue straight ahead onto a well-defined path.
NOT TO MISS The Fossil Bank If you follow the bend in the dirt road to the right and keep walking downhill for about 250m you will see a tall, rusty, chimney-like metal tower on your right. Walk to this and then follow the path to the left. Just where the bank slopes steeply you will be able to start looking for fossils. There are plenty of small ones to look out for, especially when there has been heavy rain.
r
Back on the walkingSee route, on the well-defined path, when you reach a printed book for full junction after aboutwalk 500m turn right onto a smaller path. directions
t
This will lead you down to Es Portitxol. There is a bit of a network of paths towards the bottom. If you walk to the right you will be able to explore the promontory, or simply walk along one of the pathways that wind left and down to the enticing waters.
N.06
06
Es Portitxol
The tear-drop beach and clifftop views
NOT TO MISS Relaxing on the boat slips This is the time to linger in the sun or picnic in the shade on this walk. You’ll find plenty of smooth, flat areas in front of the fishermen’s huts where you can spread out a towel and relax.
y
You will see that Es Portitxol has two distinct areas of huts. Just before you reach the farthest you willbook see a for pathfull heading steeply up the See set, printed bank behind the bay. Take this and after about 300m of steep ascent, walk directions just after you pass a well-preserved terrace, go right at the fork.
u
After a further 200m of uphill walking you will reach a threshing circle and a couple of small ruined buildings. After exploring, keep following the path that heads uphill behind the threshing circle.
i
You now have another steep climb. Near the top, you reach a welldefined junction. Go left and follow a roughly level path. (Right here is the connection route to N.05 – see page 180.)
o
After about 150m you pass over a ridge to an area sparse of trees. Keep going straight ahead on the path which now starts to descend slightly.
1)
150m further, go left onto a small dirt track to carry on walking downhill. Then, after 150m again, go left to join another track that almost doubles back on you and heads quite steeply uphill.
s
Walk up this steep track now for about 250m. It will turn fairly sharply right near the top and then start to climb less steeply. Walk a further 100m then join the small but distinct pathway that heads downhill on your right.
1@
See bookforest. for full This path undulates andprinted winds through Eventually it becomes walk directions wider and turns into a track. After about 500m, just on a straight downhill section you will see a well-preserved lime kiln with a pile of calç (baked limestone – pronounced ‘calse’) next to it.
NOT TO MISS Calç (baked limestone) All over the island it is possible to see limekilns where farmers or workers baked limestone to make calç, an important rural product used as a fertiliser, disinfectant, whitewash and for all sorts of purposes. However, it is very rare to see the calç itself, as it was nearly always removed from the site. At this kiln, for some reason, a large pile of the powdery substance has been left behind.
1# 1$
100m after the kiln go right onto a small dirt road.
1%
Follow this little dirt road for a couple of kilometres, ignoring driveways and turnoffs. You will walk along the side of a beautiful, wide valley where the hills of Sant Miquel and Benirràs are visible. You will turn a series of three sharp bends about half-way, but keep going and after the couple of kilometres there is a very sharp right-hand switchback bend and a smaller dirt road, more of a track, that leads off straight ahead. Take this. You should see some arrows on the rocks near here.
1^
After about 200m you reach a small clearing. Go left here and follow the official route marker sign. If you intend to lunch at our pitstop, Na Xamena, go straight ahead at this clearing and follow uphill for 600m and then downhill for 200m. (You can also drive to the hotel if you want to visit. It is signposted on the way to Port de Sant Miquel.)
1&
Taking the left turn and sticking to the route, after about 150m you reach the top of a cliff with an amazing view overlooking the sea, the pitstop Na Xamena, and even the Portinatx lighthouse in the distance. After admiring the view, follow the wide path left that runs along a raised bank and leads inland towards the trees.
See printed book for full
Head down this dirt walk road for about 400m to an asphalt road. Turn left directions onto this when you reach it and then turn off onto the second dirt road on the right after 150m. You will pass an electricity pylon on your right after 20m.
N.06
THE EXTRA STEP The Crane Dance Ibizan traditions in Sant Miquel Sant Miquel is a great place to explore Ibiza’s very special folk traditions. Apart from spectacular old murals in the hilltop church, there is a regular summer bonus for visitors. On Thursday evenings from June to September local musicians and dancers perform in the courtyard of the fortified church, first at 6.15pm. and again at 7pm. The Balansat troupe isSee the oldest of twenty dotted printed around the island, mostly dating from book for full the early 1980s. Sant Miquel’s enjoys article an unbroken history from 1965, and its co-founder, Toni d’en Planes, is a skilled sonador (flute-and-drum player) who played a major role in the island’s folklore revival. In 2013, the local ayuntamiento actually renamed the church square after him, and his unique collection of old Ibicenco instruments and home-made toys can be seen in a special room adjoining Can Xicu bar, just below the square. Back in June 1952 Planes belonged to an island-wide group which carried off second prize at Llangollen’s International Musical Eisteddfod in Wales: ‘Our costumes as well as music and dancing,’ wrote the manager, ‘caused a veritable sensation, with deafening ovations from the audience. We were constantly besieged by photographers and journalists.’ The startling success helped save the day for Ibiza’s enigmatic folklore, stigmatised at the time as irrelevant and out-of-date. A few weeks earlier the group had won first prize at an international festival in Palma, where Alan Lomax was among the judges. The great American folklorist decided
N.06 to explore Ibiza’s ancient songs and melodies the following month, and his marvellous recordings have recently been reissued by Rounder Records. Pityusan dances are accompanied by music played on long oleander flutes whose spiralling notes cast a See printed hypnotic spell, with percussion marked book and forlarge full castanets. out by tambors The exotic sound evokes a culture article remote in both time and place, and links have tentatively been suggested with the Caucasus, North Africa and even Yemen. But a tiny hamlet in the Pyrenean foothills, Falgars, may hold the key. An authority on Ibizan folklore, Toni Manonelles, has pointed out striking similarities between a forgotten number from this locality and La curta (‘The short one’), the low-key duet which opens Ibizan performances. Similar dances from medieval Languedoc were among the first in which men and women performed together. Village fiestas across Ibiza are an excellent place to see local troupes in action, as are rural springs after the harvest in late July and August. Such dances with their obvious fertility symbolism reach deep into the pagan past, but folkdance experts have noted an ornithological connection as well: the female’s rapid movements are called ‘partridge steps’ in the archaic Catalan dance alluded to, while the floppy Phrygian cap of the encircling males on Ibiza has often been likened to a rooster’s cockscomb. But their athletic bounding resembles the courtship display of another bird with a striking red crown. Theseus performed a ‘crane dance’ on his return from Crete, which suggests that Ibiza might be a veritable crossroads for Mediterranean folkways – from the medieval West as well as the ancient East. Typical dances, Sant Miguel © Antoni Campaña, ca. 1975
06
1*
Es Portitxol
The tear-drop beach and clifftop views
See printed book for full
The pathway narrows when you meet the trees and you should follow directions through the woodswalk for about 300m to a clear area. Go straight up one of the paths on the opposite side of the clearing to the road. Turn right to walk downhill
N.06
THE PITSTOP Na Xamena This is the original luxury retreat hotel on Ibiza. It opened its doors in 1971, when there were no asphalt roads, electricity or running water in this part of the island. Today it is still one of the most exclusive places to visit on the island. Its dramatic location, perched on a series of precipices overlooking Ibiza's northwest coast, guarantees a memorable experience, as does the restaurant menu. Scrub up well if you are visiting for supper as you could easily be dining with celebrities. 971 33 45 00. hotelhacienda-ibiza.com
1(
Seepast printed forthe full Keep walking downhill housesbook and after third sharp bend go left onto a rocky dirt road that heads uphill. You will recognise this as walk directions the first part of your route out. Follow up to your car.
11
186m
Sant Vicent
A shrine in the forest
311m
M
7.5km
3hrs
N.11 S. JOAN
IBIZA
S. EULĂ€RIA
S. ANTONI EIVISSA S. JOSEP
With an option to visit a stunning location featured in Secret Beaches: Ibiza, a short hike through tranquil pine forests and a visit to the former shrine of Ibiza's matriarchal goddess, Tanit, this is a feature-packed, four-hour adventure. Our route starts at the large beach Cala Sant Vicent on Ibiza's northeastern tip, and can be accessed easily by bus. It is then a short stroll uphill to where the forest trail begins that will take you up a dry stream bed and over a valley hilltop into the scented forest that reaches out across Sant Vicent's northern hills. We have rated this route Medium but please be aware that there is a short but slightly challenging uphill scramble about half way.
4
3
5
11
Sant Vicent
A shrine in the forest
S’Escollat Punta Verda
N Cala d’Emboscar
400m 1000ft
Puig de ses Penyes
100
150
Se rra d’e nN eg re
Puig d’en Clapers OPTIONAL EXTRA
u
i 200
150
Cap Negret
Vénda de Cas Rierons
Pla de ses Formigues
r
yt
50
Punta de s’Aigua Dolça Cala de Jonc
e
150
Serra des Port
Clot des Llamp
150
Sant Vicent
Cova des o Culleram
Punta des Forn
a
PM -8 11
200
s
50
d
f
Punta Grossa
q
g PM -81 0
Puig d’en Toni Marge
CLIMBS
Racó de sa Allà Dins Penya Blanca
w
100
50
200
Caló des Moltons
100
P
s gle Cin Es
CALA DE SANT VICENT
200m 150m 100m 50m 0m
150
1.0km
150 Carles Sant
2.0km
3.0km
4.0km
5.0km
6.0km
7.0km
GETTING THERE A
Park in any of the car printed parks at Cala Santfor Vicent, See book fullwhich is easily found on any island map, and find your way to the small roundabout where you will see the bus stop. Buses from Sant Joan and Santa Eulària run regularly during the summer months. NOTE: For those wishing to see inside Es Culleram, opening times are Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 2pm, April to October.
THE WALK
From the bus stop next to the roundabout in Cala Sant Vicent, walk along the road with rear of the beach hotels Seetheprinted book for fullon your right and the high wall on your left. This is heading northeast towards Allà Dins.
walk directions
e
You will walk past a car park and then the road will climb for about 300m to the summit of the hill. (Ignore the right turn about 100m after you start the ascent.) At the top, you will see the reception area and parking for the Allà Dins holiday complex. Keep to the road and descend 50m. Just before the sharp right-hand bend and opposite the reception building you will see a small path leading into the forest. Take this pathway. (There should be a small hiking sign here.)
Follow this small pathway as it meanders next to the coast and in and out of a small valley. After about 2km you will descend into a second valley where you will see a dry stream bed cutting directly inland to your left. There will be some blue markings on rocks here. This stream bed has a distinct pathway. If you wish to go to the secluded beach, S’Aigua Dolça, carry on along the path you were following. It is uphill at first, but when it levels out keep walking ahead to the low sloping cliffs where, if you scout about, you will find the route down. Walk back to the stream bed pathway junction after visiting the beach to carry on the walk.
e
NOT TO MISS Secluded beach S’Aigua Dolça means ‘sweet (i.e. fresh) water’, which derives from the spring at the foot of its cliffs. It's also a perfect label for this secluded cove nestling under a sloping cliff at the end of a broad inlet, whose clear, calm waters make it a haven for snorkellers and families. A hill behind the beach casts a shadow late afternoon so be sure to visit earlier in the day.
N.11
THE EXTRA STEP The Goddess and her Shrine Es Culleram and Tanit It was a baking hot morning in July 1907 when seven intrepid souls set out from Ibiza Town to investigate rumours of a cave high in the woods behind Cala Mayans. There was no road to Sant Vicent until 1964, so after leaving mule-carts in Es Figueral the group hiked along the coast and up the steep slope to the cave’s entrance. (Its trapezoidal outline was obliterated a few years later by explosives while removing obstructive boulders.) Late in the See printed book for full day they crawled inside ‘on hands and knees,’ as Juan Román y Calbet article recalled, ‘leaving bits of our clothes on the sharp rocks. We then began serious excavation.’ First to see the light of day was ‘a beautiful clay head, followed by a bell-shaped statuette, then another, and another and another.’ Over the following weeks 600 votive Tanits were revealed, plus fragments from a thousand more, transforming the site into one of the most exciting Carthaginian finds of all time. Archaeology had begun on Ibiza just four years earlier at the Puig des Molins necropolis, and the early decades witnessed some terrible blunders. Among them was leaving Es Culleram to the mercy of dynamiters and looters from 1912 to 1917, and again between 1940 and the early 1960s. After that first examination the legendary Punic shrine still guarded many of its secrets, but more professional excavations between 1909 and 1981 have allowed experts to piece together the elaborate rites that took place in Tanit’s lofty sanctuary high above Ibiza’s eastern shore. The 1909 campaign uncovered evidence of the cave’s prehistoric use, probably as a dwelling, but the main story at Es Culleram has always been the two thousand bell-shaped Tanits of the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC, painted in colours that flaked away centuries ago. It is humbler evidence, however, which explains what actually went on.
Bones of young sheep and goats reared in nearby pens suggest ritual sacrifices every spring (dental analysis point to late February–early March) to guarantee See printed book for full harvests and livestock. These were a matter of life and death in the ancient articlewere vital to ensure rainfall and freedom from world, and fertility goddesses agricultural blights. Later digs at Es Culleram uncovered cooking pots, lids, plates, bowls, water jars and amphorae – evidently dashed to smithereens. Thus ritual meals (Tanit claimed the head, blood, entrails and fat) were followed by plate-smashing, the bones and crockery buried in the remotest part of the cave alongside ashes from burnt offerings and vividly painted ex votos. Incense burners and perfume bottles hint at altered states of consciousness, heightened by sacred music and dance in dark recesses. The long journey by sea and foot would have been a veritable pilgrimage, and processions doubtless wound their way up the hill accompanied by hand drums and double pipes (female musicians are suggested by two Es Culleram figurines now in a Madrid museum). Feet and hands would have been washed in the large ablutions basin still visible left of the entrance, before pilgrims purchased a lamb or kid, which was then killed, dismembered, burnt and eaten, its remains interred in the sacred space. Humans were never sacrificed at Es Culleram, while sacred prostitutes belong to a different goddess, Astarte. Instead we have a complex ritual involving priests, scribes, butchers, cleaners, potters, shepherds, bakers, musicians and dancers. A bronze plaque discovered in 1923 (now in Alicante) has two Punic inscriptions, the later alluding to repairs to ‘the sanctuary of Tanit, the All-Powerful’. Es Culleram’s treasures may be scattered in public and private collections throughout Spain, but an excellent follow-up is the Puig des Molins Museum in Ibiza Town. Here you will also see the famous bust discovered nearby, a mesmerizing, frizzy-haired deity balancing an incense-burner on her head. She is probably a representation of the Greek fertility goddess, Demeter, but who cares? This is Ibiza, after all.
N.11
11
Sant Vicent
A shrine in the forest
Walking up the dry stream bed you should ignore small paths and cairns until you reach a point, after a good 500m, where the path cuts up the steep bank to your left andbook you will See printed forhave fullto scramble up some rocks. (There should be some noticeable markings and several cairns walk directions here – it is obvious when you see it. After this point, the stream bed becomes difficult to follow as the undergrowth closes in – so you will know if you have walked too far.)
This small path is very steep for the first 20m or so and will involve a bit of clambering – but nothing a fit person cannot easily handle. After this short, steep section, the path veers to the right and starts to level out. Very soon you are being led along the side of a wooded valley, climbing slightly and noting the occasional blue mark or small cairn. After about 750m you reach a steeper section of pathway and very soon you reach the brow of a hill where you should carry on over.
After only about 20m of descent from the top of the hill, you reach a T-junction, where you turn right. Continue on over some flat rocks and you will quickly find yourself on a solid trail. Keep following.
After about 500m on this trail you emerge from the forest onto a flat plain where you will see a walled orchard in front of you. Walk down the track to your left with the orchard wall on your right.
This track turns into a dirt road, and then an asphalt road. Keep going straight. About 400m after it turns into asphalt you reach a four-way junction where there is a small house on your right. Go left, uphill on a concrete road, following the sign for Es Culleram. OPTIONAL EXTRA. From this four-way junction is a highly recommended 3km there-and-back addition which follows a dirt road to a marvellous viewpoint where the entire Sant Vicent valley is visible. i) At the junction before you turn left in Instruction 8, turn right then after 20m go left onto the dirt road that cuts back slightly uphill. ii)Keep following this for about 1km until you reach a newly renovated finca. Here, take the diverted path around the property and then re-join the dirt road, now a pathway. iii) Follow as you start to steadily climb uphill through trees and around several bends. On the final stretch before you start to descend, look back for the view and by continuing to the other side of the hill, a view stretches out the other way over the sea.
Back on the route, after about 600m of ascent to the brow of a hill where there is a small parking area, keep walking straight ahead. Join the pathway and then go down the steps that lead to Es Culleram.
After visiting the cave-shrine, walk along the stone terrace in front and descend the See second set of stone steps the left. Start to follow printed book foronfull the pathway downhill. Look for the troughs and the carved water walk directions receptacle in the rocks on your right about halfway down.
After this downhill section on the pathway you emerge onto a small driveway where you will see a parking area and road below. Walk down to the road and turn left onto the asphalt.
Walk about 150m on the asphalt and just after the bend join the little dirt road on your right that leads into farmland. Follow this 100m to the crossways junction and turn left onto another dirt road to follow with the dry stream bed on your left.
After a further 200m join the tiny asphalt lane going straight ahead (left). Then, after 150m join the dirt road straight ahead of you on a lefthand bend. It is just next to a telegraph pole.
After 150m join a small asphalt road and walk 20m downhill to the main road. Here, go straight over onto the small dirt road diagonally opposite to your left. This tiny camino will lead you the last 250m back to Cala San Vicent where you will easily find your car or the bus stop.
THE PITSTOP Can Gat Not many restaurants claim that two fishermen work exclusively for them – but Can Gat can and does. This is one of the island's classic establishments whose two head chefs, born and bred on Ibiza, know the island’s traditional recipes as part of their upbringing and heritage. Amongst the paellas and fish stews, you will find succulent lobster stews. 971 32 01 23. cangatibiza.es
N.11
18
199m
Siesta
The secret tunnel and coastal views
443m
H
10km
3.5hrs
N.18 S. JOAN
IBIZA
S. EULĂ€RIA
S. ANTONI EIVISSA S. JOSEP
On this walk you will a visit an incredible secluded bay, featured in Secret Beaches: Ibiza, which is accessed through a long dark tunnel. After visiting this sequestered strand, the walk will take you up to an amazing viewpoint overlooking the eastern coast of Ibiza and return to where you started along sleepy caminos, lanes and woodland trails. We have given the walk a rating of Hard because it joins a very steep path at one stage that can be slippery, and as it is quite demanding with an overall height gain of nearly half a kilometre.
5
3
4
18
Siesta
SIESTA
The secret tunnel and coastal views
Caló de s’Alga
PMV-810-1
C. Dàlies
q
s ònie org C. G
50
MONTAÑAS VERDES
100
BUENAVISTA
150
Puig d’en Pep
g VALVERDE
Puig d’en Purredó
k s iol ad Gl . C
C. Mont Everest
R
Llon ga
50
h i
w le
t r y u
o
s
150
Puig Marina
d
Cala Pi
j
f
Ca na Polla Av. C ala
C. La va nd es
100
200
Es Mal Pas
Punta de sa Cova Blanca Cala Blanca
100 50
Punta Roja
a Puig de sa Vinya
N
CALA LLONGA
400m 1,000ft
Cala Llonga Na Freda
CLIMBS
200m 175m 150m 125m 100m 75m 50m 25m
150
1km
es Castellar
2km
3km
4km
5km
6km
100
Cap des Llibrell
7km
50
8km
9km
10km
GETTING THERE A
From the roundabout next to Santa Eulària bridge, turn onto the road printed full that is signpostedSee Siesta. (There isbook a largefor boat merchants by the directions roundabout, just inwalk case you get the wrong one.)
B
After 300m, turn left onto the road signposted Siesta. Follow this road uphill through Siesta and past the shops.
C
When the road becomes one way, keep going and then take the left after a steep climb onto Calle de les Dàlies.
D
Go straight down this road. After 150m, just where it turns sharply downhill, turn onto the dirt road on your right. After about 100m you will see an area that is suitable for parking. If this is full, the first 50m or so of the road is quite wide so you can park at the roadside.
THE WALK
e e
From where you have parked your car, start walking with the sea on your left. Enjoy views the islandbook of Tagomago and the high hills Seeofprinted for full looking back to the north. walk directions
After about 500m the dirt road has a section that is concreted for about 200m. Just after the road returns to a dirt surface, go around the sharp left-hand bend and then take the left fork, carrying on along the dirt road downhill.
Follow this down for just over 100m and just as you reach a left-hand bend, take the pathway off to your right. When you reach the cliff edge, walk to the right and after about 50m fork right.
You should now be on a roughly level path with views across the valley to your left. Keep to this and you will be led along the side of the valley and then steeply downhill to take you across a small dry stream bed to a well-defined path. Turn left to visit Cala Blanca (see page 176) or right to continue the walk.
N.18
18
Siesta
The secret tunnel and coastal views
NOT TO MISS Cala Blanca To access this atmospheric beach simply follow the path after turning left in Instruction 4 until you come to the tunnel. Take your time walking through it as it can be dark and there are loose stones and rocks on the floor. Once you are on the flat area overlooking the bay it is possible to access the shoreline by following the little path down the steep slippery slope. If you walk to your right, there should be an area to relax and recline in the sun.
Continuing the route by turning right, keep following as the path winds uphill and becomes a small dirt road. After about 500m on a right-hand bend, take the path leading off to the left.
See printed book for full walk directions
At the end of this pathway you meet a high cliff with a fantastic view over Cala Blanca – be very careful at the edge as it is an extremely high sheer drop. Just a metre or two back from the edge, look up to your right and pick your way uphill. The path is very steep, rocky and indistinct for the first few metres, but quickly becomes easier to follow.
After 150m of steep uphill walking you reach a high stone wall. Go right, following the wall and onto the clearing on top to take in the most spectacular views of the north of Ibiza one way and Formentera to the south. This is our first recommended picnic spot. After soaking it all up, take the dirt road heading uphill and inland.
After 300m you meet an asphalt road. Go left and then almost immediately left again onto a small pathway next to a blue post. Remember this junction for your return.
This path will lead uphill for about 200m to a cairn. This is the peak and another recommended picnic spot in the shade of the pine trees. Once rested, look for the continuation of the path leading downhill.
When you reach a second cairn, smaller than the last one, keep following the path left and downhill. This becomes a steep and rocky section for about 150m. Keep to the main path and follow over some larger rocks where the path becomes a little indistinct. Eventually you will descend to a small clearing where there is another blue post. Continue on the same path which is much more level after this point.
After about 250m you reach a dirt road. Keep going downhill. Then, after a further 500m you reach an asphalt road. Continue downhill.
After 100m, when you reach the junction, there will be a shop and a small taverna called Zebra Bar ahead of you. This is a great place to stop for refreshment, but it is only open during the summer months. To continue the route, follow the junction around to the right to take the first road on your right. You will see signs for Valverde.
After 250m where the road splits by the recycling bins, go straight ahead up a steep hill following an asphalt road called Carrer de les Gladiolas.
N.18
18
Siesta
The secret tunnel and coastal views
This quiet asphaltSee roadprinted will take you up the book forhillside full to a level part where you will see somewalk gardens and apartment blocks on you right, called directions Dukal. Keep going straight, and just after the apartment blocks go right onto the road that leads steeply uphill behind the blocks called Carrer de les Lavandes.
Keep going to the top where the road levels and you will recognise the junction we asked you to remember on your way out in Instruction 8. Keep going on the asphalt road, passing a house on your right and a blue post on your left.
THE PITSTOPS Restaurante Albissa This family pitstop is relaxed and unpretentious. It's a place where tourists visiting this part of Ibiza will regularly go for their favourite meal, simply because of the friendly atmosphere, good value and high-quality ingredients. The big test of any local restaurant is the alioli and the paella, both of which compare favourably with any other on the island. Try also the grilled sole, one of the flambé dishes, and finish off with a shot from their extensive range of hierbas, most of which are homemade. 971 33 07 60 El Rincón del Río Don't be put off by the plastic chairs and the €12.50 menu that includes three courses and a drink. This is one of the few restaurants on the island that serve authentic Thai food and they have a solid following to prove it. They are situated next to the bridge and river on the Siesta side of Santa Eulària and have a lovely view of the sea from their terrace. Our recommendations are the red curry main course and the fried banana dessert, two classic Thai dishes done to a turn. No telephone or website.
This road is level at first but will gradually ascend to a sharp See printed book for full left-hand bend in front of a large house. Do not take the bend, but walk directions go right to join a wide track. After about 100m, pass over the chain (vehicle barrier only) and join the pathway leading straight ahead into the forest.
You are now on a rocky pathway that is steep in places. Keep to the main path, ignoring a couple of offshoots to the left, until you see a house and a property fence ahead of you. Make sure you follow the path as it leads you left here and downhill quite steeply to arrive at a dirt road. You will see the driveway gate for the house on your right.
Join the dirt road and carry on downhill for about 200m until you meet another dirt road. This is the dirt road you followed at the beginning. Turn left and walk all the way back to where you parked.
N.18
Punta de sa Pesquereta
TYING KNOTS
How to join routes together
Cap des Rubió
Regama de Sa Punta
Es Portitxol Penyal de s’guila
Racó Fosc N 400m 1.000 ft
es Rubió
Puig de sa Paret Cala d’Albarca Puig d’en Cires
Racó de Sa Punta
N.06
N.05
PM V8 041
C. A
Puig d’en Guillermí
nca Bla Lsle
804-1 PMV
Cantó de Baix
N.05 and N.06
Sa Raconada
X
15km
5hrs
a) Following N.05 through to Instruction 8, take the hard route up the indistinct path. Follow now through 10 andfor in Instruction 11, join the SeeInstruction printed9,book full connection pathway onwalk the left where prompted directions b) Follow this now as it winds downhill, quite steeply in places, then through woodland and eventually after about 500m brings you to a point where you see a path doubling back downhill to your left. This is where you join N.06 in Instruction 8 to follow a roughly level path – you will walk straight ahead from the direction you are coming from, ignoring the path on the left to be led after 150m to an area sparse of trees as per Instruction 9. d) Now follow N.06 all the way around to Instruction 19 where instead of going left uphill on the rocky dirt road, keep going down hill and skip to Instruction 3, N.06. Now follow to Instruction 8, where you should turn right at the top rather than left. You will recognise this junction from where you joined N.06 before. e) You are now back on the connection route so retrace your steps from earlier to N.05. Turn left to walk 50m or so to the clearing and pick up from Instruction 12.
es Pujolots
Illa Murada Illa des Bosc
Venda de Rubió
Port de Benirràs
Venda des Port
Venda de Larracó
C. d e
PORT DE SANT MIQUEL Zam nas
Puig Pelat
N.07
PM 804
Racó d’en Gabrie ort el P C. d
Sa Serra
SANT MIQUEL DE BALANSAT
In this section we match up our walking routes to make extra-long hikes. You should plan carefully to make sure you have enough daylight to complete the routes. We’d also emphasise that these should oan not be undertaken on hot days. nJ Sa de C. They are simply too long. PM 804
Puig d’en Besora
N.06 and N.07
X
17km
6hrs
a) Starting with Instruction 1, N.06,book follow for all the way through to Instruction See printed full 16. Skip to Instruction 14, N.07 and you will see that the beginning of the two walk directions instructions are the same. Now follow the instructions in N.07 and ignore the left turn up the track where the walking route markings are. b) When you arrive back at the same clearing again, skip back to N.06 and pick up from Instruction 18 by taking the left turn. c) Now follow instructions in N.06 back to where you parked.
N.05, N.06 & N.07 SUPER-HIKE
X
24km
7hrs
printed forwalker. full By using the connection This one is for theSee seriously fit andbook hardened instructions on these twodirections pages you can make a huge challenging route. Because walk you are joining three circular routes, it’s quite complicated so plan well – you may feel it necessary to do the walks separately before taking on the full super-hike. This way you will be sure not to get lost while matching up walk directions.
TYING KNOTS
How to join routes together
Cala d’en Sardina N 400m
Puig d’en Raco
900 ft
Ses Margalides
Cap Negret
S’Illot
Es Corrals Puig d’en Valor
Raco de s’Amarador
na de C. Coro
N.02
N.03 SANTA AGNES DE CORONA
Penya Esbarrada
Calo d’en Vicentet
Dalt
1 281 VPM
Pla de Corona
12 V-8 PM
N.02 and N.03
X
9km
4hrs
a) Start at Instruction 1, N.03. Follow all the way through to Instruction 10 by taking the right turn to walk to the beginning of thefull gorge leading down to Ses See printed book for Balandres. Instead of going down the gorge (unless you want the detour) go walk directions straight ahead and look for the path on the left after a few metres. (You can actually go straight ahead here for a short there-and-back up to the high clifftop overlooking Ses Balandres. Well worth the extra 300m of walking.) b) Following this new path you will be led through woodland, taking some sharp bends here and there, to arrive at a rocky dirt road. Turn left. (Right is another detour to a promontory where there is an old building. A lovely picnic spot, but a steep climb back up.) c) Having turned left to walk uphill on the rocky dirt road, keep following the main route, ignoring tracks and offshoots until you reach a small asphalt road. Here turn right and follow about 800m or so until you see the small restaurant and dirt parking area. This is where you should join N.02 from Instruction 1. d) Follow all the way around to the restaurant again and then walk back along the way you came on the asphalt road. e) Ignore the turning where you joined the road earlier, simply keep going and you will eventually arrive at the starting point for N.03.
N.12 and N.13
X
29km
10hrs
a) Start by following the full route of N.12 or N.13. Both have the same thereSee printed book for full and-back section at the beginning and then loop around wonderful countryside walk directions in different directions. b) The there-and-back route takes you from the church in Sant Joan to a point in Instruction 6 (in either route) where you see the main road on your right. c) Simply choose which one you want to do first and follow the loop until you arrive back at the same point. Then switch to Instruction 6 in the other route to carry on walking instead of returning to Sant Joan church.
TYING KNOTS
How to join routes together Cala d’Albarca Davall es Alls
Cap d’en Mosson
es Alls
Raco de Sa Punta
Puig d’en Cires
N
PM V-8 041
800m
Cala d’en Sardina
0.5 miles
Ses Margalides
-1 -812 PMV
Puig d’en Raco
Puig d’en Joan Andreu
Puig d’en Pau de Dalt Puig d’en Jaume
SANTA AGNES DE CORONA
na de C. Coro
N.04
Plana d’Albercai
-1 PMV-812
Dalt
Pla de Sant Gelabert
nt e C. d
Sa
Agn
Puig d’en Coca
12 V-8 PM
puig d’en Rotavella Puig d’en Francoli
N.01
12-1 V-8 PM
Serra des Fom Nou
Puig d’en Frit
Puig des Sant
N.01 and N.04
Puig d’en Tonio
-1 -804 PMV
Puig d’en Baix
es
a Mateu d Abarca a San
SANT MATEU D’ALBARCA
t
Puig Verd
1 281 VPM
Puig d’en Guillermi
Puig d’en Socarrat
X
24km
8hrs
a) Starting with Instruction 1 in N.04, follow to the asphalt road mentioned in Instruction 22. Cross over asphalt road as instructed Seethe printed book for full and walk past two houses that you will see across fields to your left. Just before the driveway for the second house meets the dirt walk road youdirections are on, turn onto the dirt road on your right. b) Now you are on N.01. Follow this dirt road about 750m until you meet an asphalt road where you should go straight ahead (left). c) Skip to Instruction 21 in N.01 and follow the instructions to number 26. d) Instruction 27 (N.01) mentions a wider dirt road. Once on this wider dirt road, walk straight ahead. Ignore a turning / small parking area on your left after 250m. After just over 500m you will see a path and another rocky parking area on your left. Turn onto the path here and after about 100m the path starts to climb quite steeply uphill. e) Now skip to Instruction 2 in N.01 and follow through to Instruction 19. f) In Instruction 19, when you meet the dirt road, turn right instead of left. g) Take the first left fork and once again you will be on more of a track rather than a dirt road. Fork left again after a few metres. h) Now skip to Instruction 25 in N.04 and follow to where you started.
LOOSE ENDS
How to shorten routes Due to Ibiza’s high summer temperatures, we thought it might be useful for you to know how to turn some of the longer routes into short routes. N.04 – BUSCASTELL VALLEY
1.5km / 35mins / Easy
This is perfect for a picnic. Less than 1km downhill to get to the grassy terraces within the Buscastell Valley. a) The easiest way to describe how to find the picnic spot is to start from the See for fullGertrudis. After about 600m village of Sant Mateu andprinted drive southbook towards Santa turn right onto a small asphalt road signposted Santa Agnès. walk directions b) Follow this for just over 2km, then turn left onto a wide dirt road. There should be a sign for the Buscastell Valley. Drive down this dirt road for about 1km until the trees are on both sides and you see a dirt road on the left and a parking area on the right. Park here and start walking down the dirt road that was on your left. c) Now walk to the Buscastell Valley by following from Instruction 23, N.04 N.07 – FINCA CAN COSMI VIEWPOINT
2km / 45mins / Moderate
With a 20 min walk you reach one of the most majestic inland views in the north. a) Drive to Na Xamena Hotel by following the signs on the way down to Port de See printed book forbottom full and it will lead you all the Sant Miquel. The turning is on the left near the way to the top of a big hill. Park in the first dirt parking area on your left. walk directions b) Facing the entrance of Na Xamena, turn left and follow the dirt road. Walk up and over the hill going round a few sharp bends. You are now on a rocky track. c) The track will start to descend. Then after 150m or so you will see the sign for Finca Can Cosmi. Follow it left onto another track. Follow for about 300m. It ascends then descends. The public land is on the left and well signposted. d) Just after you enter the area, walk diagonally right on a small rocky path to access a viewing deck. There’s a map at the entrance that will help direct you. N.11 – TANIT’S CAVE (ES CULLERAM)
500m / 15mins / Easy
This is really just driving directions to find the parking for Tanit’s Shrine. a) Driving towards Cala Sant Vicent from Sant Vicent (or Sant Joan), turn onto Seenext printed book for full the small asphalt road to the bright pink signs on your left about halfway between Km markers 7 and 8. It’s on a bend and difficult to miss. walk directions b) Drive uphill on this asphalt lane and you soon reach a four-way junction. Go right here, still following the bright pink sign. You are now on a small concrete road. Drive to the top of the hill and park in the open area when you can go no further. Walk to the steps and follow down to the caves. N.11 – OPTIONAL VIEWPOINT
3km / 1hour / Medium
This is the optional extra for N.11 that takes you to the high viewpoint. a) Follow the driving instructions above to reach the Tanit Shrine except that See printed book full when you reach the four-way junction parkfor where you find some space without blocking the road.walk Walk back to the four-way junction and join the rocky dirt road directions that heads uphill. b) Follow this for about 1.5km past old houses and terraces to the viewpoint.
BEST WALKS FOR...
...SUNSETS N.02 Santa Agnès Coastal N.03 Santa Agnès North N.08 Benirràs N.10 Portinatx Peninsula
...LONG HIKES N.04 Cala d’Albarca West N.12 Sant Joan East N.13 Sant Joan South N.17 Santa Gertrudis North
...NATURE N.01 Santa Agnès South N.06 Es Portitxol N.17 Santa Gertrudis North N.18 Siesta
...SWIMMING & SUNBATHING N.06 Es Portitxol N.07 Sant Miquel N.09 Punta de Xarracó N.15 Sant Carles
...BREATHTAKING VIEWS N.03 Santa Agnès North N.05 Cala d’Albarca East N.07 Sant Miquel N.18 Siesta
...YOUNG FAMILIES N.05 Cala d’Albarca East N.09 Punta de Xarracó N.10 Portinatx Peninsula N.14 Pou des Lleó
...PITSTOPS N.07 Sant Miquel N.08 Benirràs N.16 Sant Llorenç N.17 Santa Gertrudis North
...PUBLIC TRANSPORT N.07 Sant Miquel N.12 Sant Joan East N.13 Sant Joan South N.17 Santa Gertrudis North
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Rob has always had a love of walking, which stems from long summer holidays spent in southwest England as a child. In his late teens he moved to France to follow his passion for cooking, working his way up from plongeur to chef at a variety of restaurants. He travelled leisurely from Provence to Paris before returning to the UK in 1996 to establish The Shoreditch Map. This monthly listings magazine, for which he wrote about venues and events across the stylish London neighbourhood, ran for over 80 issues before he passed it on as a successful enterprise. These days Rob divides his time between London and a remote hideaway in the west of Ibiza. To research this book he walked every path in every accessible corner of the island for a year and a half, clocking up over 3,000 kilometres – equivalent to walking to his home in London and back. Also during this time Rob founded the Ibiza Walking Association, a non-profit organisation that aims to promote the Pityuses as a walking destination, as well as giving local guides an internet presence and Facebook page where they can promote their services. For the past couple of years, Rob’s IWA has organised fundraising walks for Ibiza-based charities. Thanks in good measure to the skills and enthusiasm of the participants, over €15,000 has been raised so far for worthy initiatives such as the Centro Menor de Conseil de Eivissa (an orphanage and children’s home), The Ibiza Preservation Fund and Mojis Animal Sanctuary. Rob’s other activities in the IWA include clearing overgrown pathways so they can be easily followed without a guide. Over recent decades many have become difficult to locate, corresponding to the rapid decline of traditional activities in the countryside. Rob sincerely hopes that his work on the ground and as an author-publisher will promote Ibiza’s outstanding appeal to walkers, while establishing at the same time a lasting network of viable routes accessible to everyone. www.ibizawalkingassociation.com
MARTIN DAVIES AND BARBARY PRESS
Martin Davies, editor and contributor to the present guide, first succumbed to the spell of Ibiza and its enigmatic culture during two cycling holidays in 1992, the year before he settled permanently on the island. Long rambles in the interior brought him into close contact with traditional Pityusan architecture, and in 1997 he completed a full-length study of this subject. Since establishing Barbary Press in 1999, he has combined writing, translating and publishing, with eight popular titles to date exploring old photographs, archaeology, architecture, rural customs and birdlife. Over the past fifteen years Martin has contributed about 180 articles to various journals, books and websites. The ‘Extra Step’ project for this book has allowed him to focus on overlooked byways of island history and ethnography, while also unearthing the surprising truth beneath Ibiza’s many myths and legends. Further information on Martin’s publications can be found at his website, www.barbarypress.es c/ Murcia 10, 5º 1ª · 07800 Ibiza Tel. (0034) 971 399989 / 609 875 689 martind@telefonica.net
Please refer to Secret Walks: Ibiza South for information on Rika Humphreys (translator and contributor) and information about The Ibiza Preservation Fund, a charity dedicated to safeguarding Ibiza and Formentera’s exceptional beauty.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Writing a walking book for a place where you have spent a relatively small portion of your life is a fairly rare undertaking. Before starting on this project Rob had resided for a mere eight weeks on Ibiza and the final result is in no small part due to the unconditional help from the following people. Rob would like to pass on his profound gratitude for their assistance and point out to the readers that the book would not have been possible without them. Martin Davies, faultless editor and brilliant publisher, for his excellent work improving Rob’s writing and content. For his advice and introductions to everyone else that has helped on the book. And in particular, for his firm collaboration on all aspects including the ‘Extra Step’ articles. Rika Humphreys for her guidance, tips, opinions and corrections. Not to mention her magnificent German translation. Which is where a big thank you to Eva Ríos comes in as well, for her superb work as the Spanish translator. Rika and Eva’s attention to all the last-minute changes did not go unnoticed. In the production department, Ben Hoo for developing Rob’s basic layouts into the beautifully designed book you are holding now. Katie Halpin for some marvellous tweaking and proofing. Piers (Dog’s Body Design), Chunning Chang and Joan Costa Bonet for helping Rob tackle the daunting cartographical content. Lastly to Simon Borrough and Jo Kirby for their work on the final checks and design to bring everything to completion. Finally, but by no means insignificantly, thanks to all who helped Rob in miscellaneous ways. Carmen Ferrer, Carmen Sánchez, Teresa Campillo Angeles López, Joan Bosque, Mike and Rachel Wake, Detlev Baumhoff, Cat Milton, Brian and Di Whetton, Liisi Toom, Jim Arymer and of course Steve Marvell, for his stalwart technical support behind the scenes.
SPECIAL THANKS Rob would also like to mention his respect and appreciation of the late Rolf Hürten, author of the first walking guides for Ibiza. Rolf laid down most of the routes that are used by walkers on the island today. His small blue markings escorted Rob to the best locations and are the backbone of the research in this book.
The secret is out... From tranquil coves and hidden pathways to romantic restaurants and pop-up beach bars, Secret Seeker guides guarantee an unbeatable day out at the most beautiful and unusual locations on Ibiza. Available in the Secret Seeker: Ibiza series
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Discover the true nature of Ibiza with Secret Walks: Ibiza North. Within these meticulously researched pages you will find... - 18 spectacular walking routes of varying length and difficulty - Detours and shortcuts that take you to secret beaches or incredible viewpoints - Details of how to combine, shorten and adapt the routes for multiple variations - The best local restaurants, bars, cafés and chiringuitos - ‘Extra Step’ articles that reveal surprising secrets about island life All this is packed into the book with... - Easy-to-read maps and clear, detailed walking instructions - Hundreds of beautiful photographs - The Secret Seeker guarantee of an unbeatable day out
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