A High-Tech Shock
for High-Value Traditional Italian Agriculture by Stefano Riela
I
f in this very moment you are enjoying a traditional Italian Aperitivo, it is probable that you are surrounded by red and blue dots. Take a close look at the packet of your Parma ham and on the label you will spot a red logo that reads “Protected designation of origin” (PDO). You will find the same symbol on your Prosecco bottle. If instead you are accompanying the Chocolate of Modica with a glass of Grappa or limoncello, the logos are blue and read “Protected geographical indication” (PGI). Those symbols have been adopted by the European Union as geographical indications (GIs). The main function of GIs is to identify the origin of goods, as they point to a specific place of production that gives particular characteristics and qualities to the product. This uniqueness linked to a terroir is gen-
Segmento Issue XXII • March-May 2021
erally the mix of physical characteristics as well as human factors such as knowhow and culture. The red logo is for PDO products, the ones with the strongest connection to the place where they are made. Every part of the production, processing and preparation must take place in the specified geographical area, and the products must adhere to designated specifications. PGI products use the blue logo and for them, it’s enough that at least one stage of production, processing or preparation takes place in the specified geographical area. Nothing in GI rules prevents anyone anywhere to produce balsamic vinegar adopting the same techniques specified for Aceto Balsamico di Modena (PGI) and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (PDO). However, producers outside Modena cannot use those names or the blue
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