dty hdr by selenafresgo

Drive This 1957 Chevy Home ... See How Inside!

Is It A Truck, Is It A Car ... Yes, They’re Both Hot Rods!

Working Aluminum For Interior Panels & Dash HOME SHOP: Making Your Own Custom Trim Installing & Insulating A New Floorboard

$8.95 INTHEGARAGEMEDIA.COM • AUGUST 2021 • ISSUE 11

Improve Your IFS With CPP Spindle & Brake Kit

MODERN RODDING CONTENTS

InTheGarageMedia.com

DEPARTMENTS

Core Strength Installing a New Radiator Core Support in Your 1966-1971 Ford Torino, Fairlane, or Ranchero By Brian Brennan, Photography by Jason Chandler

08 Starting Over........................................................................ Brian Brennan 12 Parts Department .............................................................New Products 89 Ad Index ......................................Those Supporting Our Industry

East Coast Graffiti How to Buy a Used Hot Rod and Then Begin to Bring it Back to Life By John Gilbert, Photography by the Author

FEATURES The Best of Both Worlds George Lange’s 1970 Chevy El Camino By Brian Brennan, Photography by John Jackson

El Ranchero Mike and Lynn Connor’s 1971 Ford Ranchero By Brian Brennan, Photography by John Jackson

Feature of the Month

Transitions Clayton Machine Works Provides a Trim Solution By Gerry Burger, Photography by the Author

84 Feature of the Month

ON THE COVER The debate goes on, and on: Is an El Camino or a Ranchero a car or a truck? Well, we like to think of them as excellent examples of hot rods. The Connors own this outstanding example of a 1971 Ford Ranchero (built by the Painthouse) while the Langes own the equally amazing 1970 Chevy El Camino (built by Alloway’s Hot Rod Shop). Photography by John Jackson

Bowtie Delight The American Tri-Five Association Giveaway Car: 1957 Chevy 150 By Brian Brennan, Photography by Gabrielle Sauerland

Root Beer ’n’ Maple Vaughn and Kelly Veit’s 1933 Ford Station Wagon By Chuck Vranas, Photography by the Author

Resplendent in Red Rob and Marilyn Morrison’s 1932 Ford Coupe By Chuck Vranas, Photography by the Author

TECH Powerful Stoppers Enhance Your Braking With a CPP Modular Brake Kit and Spindles By Brian Brennan

Modern Rodding ISSN 2692-2371 (print) ISSN 2692-238X (online) Issue 11 is published monthly by In The Garage Media, 370 E. Orangethorpe Avenue, Placentia, CA 92870-6502. Application to mail at Periodicals prices is pending at Placentia, CA. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Modern Rodding, c/o In The Garage Media, 1350 E. Chapman Ave #6550, Fullerton, CA 92834-6550 or email ITGM at subscription@inthegaragemedia.com. Copyright (c) 2021 IN THE GARAGE MEDIA. Printed in the USA. The Modern Rodding trademark is a registered trademark of In The Garage Media.

Department of the Interior Aluminum Paneling & One Dashing Custom Dash By Gerry Burger

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

1970 BUICK SKYLARK FRONT BUMPER

BU06-70F .... 1970 Skylark Front Bumper

1953 CHEVY CAR PARK LAMP HOUSINGS

1957 CHEVY FENDERS WITH MOLDING HOLES BEST QUALITY ON THE MARKET!

HO07-692..Flat Hood 1969-72 GM Truck

(1967-68 STYLE)

MANAGING EDITOR & AD COORDINATOR SARAH GONZALES sgonzales@inthegaragemedia.com

BEST QUALITY ON THE MARKET!

QP13-57FML .....57 Chevy - Drivers Side* QP13-57FMR ..........57 Chevy - Pass Side

1955-57 CHEVY 150 QUARTER PANEL MOLDING WITH DOOR SPEARS

1957 CHEVY REAR BUMPER ENDS BU13-57ES .... 57 Rear Bumper Ends (pr)

(1967-68 STYLE) HO07-693.................Flat Hood with Vent 1969-72 GM Truck

PUBLISHER TIM FOSS tfoss@inthegaragemedia.com

1957 CHEVY QUARTER VERTICAL & TOP FIN MOLDING KIT

ML13-551S .. Chevy 150 Qtr Molding Set

HO07-694...............Cowl Induction Hood 1969-72 GM Truck

NICK LICATA nlicata@inthegaragemedia.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & OPERATIONS MANAGER YASMIN FAJATIN yfajatin@inthegaragemedia.com

PK13-53P ............. 1953 Chevy Car (pair)

(1967-68 STYLE)

SENIOR EDITORS ROB FORTIER rfortier@inthegaragemedia.com

FE13-571L .............1957 Chevy - Drivers FE13-571R ....... 1957 Chevy - Passenger

*Custom 1-Piece Style!

1969-72 GM TRUCK HOODS

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR/EDITOR BRIAN BRENNAN bbrennan@inthegaragemedia.com

1947-53 CHEVY PICKUP FRONT FENDERS

ART DIRECTOR ROB MUNOZ EDITORIAL TEAM Wes Allison, Rodney Bauman, Gerry Burger, Tommy Lee Byrd, Ron Ceridono, Michael Christensen, Ron Covell, Grant Cox, Dominic Damato, John Drummond, Eric Geisert, John Gilbert, Joe Greeves, John Jackson, Chadly Johnson, Barry Kluczyk, Scotty Lachenauer, Ryan Manson, Josh Mishler, Dale Moreau, Todd Ryden, Jason Scudellari, Chris Shelton, Tim Sutton, Chuck Vranas, John Winter — Writers and Photographers IN THE GARAGE MEDIA ON THE WEB AllChevyPerformance.com ClassicTruckPerformance.com ModernRodding.com InTheGarageMedia.com SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@inthegaragemedia.com ADVERTISING Mark Dewey National Sales Manager Patrick Walsh Sales Representative Travis Weeks Sales Representative ads@inthegaragemedia.com BACK ISSUES inthegaragemedia.com “Online Store” EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTIONS info@inthegaragemedia.com Editorial contributions are welcomed but editors recommend that contributors query first. Contribution inquiries should first be emailed to info@inthegaragemedia.com. Do not mail via USPS as we assume no responsibility for loss or damage thereto. IN THE GARAGE MEDIA reserves the right to use material at its discretion, and we reserve the right to edit material to meet our requirements. Upon publication, payment will be made at our current rate, and that said, payment will cover author’s and contributor’s rights of the contribution. Contributors’ act of emailing contribution shall constitute and express warranty that material is original and no infringement on the rights of others.

(1967-68 STYLE) HO07-695 .........Cowl Induction Hood Vent 1969-72 GM Truck

• GREAT PRICING • HUGE INVENTORY • OE QUALITY & BEST FITMENT

FE07-47L..............Front Fender - Drivers FE07-47R ....... Front Fender - Passenger

• EXTENSIVE DEVELOPMENT • FIRST-TO-MARKET NEW ITEMS • #1 CHOICE OF BUILDERS

www.GoldenStarAuto.com • 1-972-315-3758

GET THE SUMMIT ADVANTAGE! THE BRAND YOU TRUST. Chevy LS 5.3L 450HP Long Block Crate Engine

Ëìê Ùòúèõ ä÷ äñ Êğ òõçäåïè Ùõìæè SUM-150153 $3,499.99 each SUM LS 5.3L 450HP

Push-Button Electric Emergency Brake Kit

Tru Trac Serpentine Systems with A/C

Radiator Shells for Ford Model A

VN471 Salt Flat Special Polished Wheels

Floor Dimmer Switch Kits

EFI Self-Tuning Fuel Injection Systems

Billet Two-Piece GM Door Handles

RedTop 12-Volt Starting Batteries

Doubles as an Anti-Theft Device ESC-ESK001 $543.99 kit ESC Emergency Push

Max Performance Carburetors Show-Quality Finish as low as

$329.99 each SUM Max Carburetor

Add the Wow Factor to Your Ride as low as $288.99 each ARE VN471

Built for Easy Assembly as low as $2,064.99 kit BSP Tru Trac A/C

Switch to a Stylish Dimmer as low as $35.90 kit NTH Dimmer Kit

For Restoration or Restyling as low as $171.99 each KNS Radiator Shell

EFI without the Hassle as low as $1,019.95 kit SNE EFI Self-Tuning

V8 Engine Gas Grill

Satisfy High-Power Hunger HRH-GHH350EG

$739.99 each HRH V8 Engine

Altman Easy Latch Kits Smooth Door Operation as low as $176.99 kit TFG Altman

1967-69 Camaro Design as low as $425.00 pair RGB Two-Piece GM

Stronger Burst of Ignition Power as low as $199.99 each ULT RedTop 12

UNBEATABLE SERVICE, TECH ADVICE, SATISFACTION, AND SELECTION. Order by 10 PM EST: In-Stock Parts Shipped That Day! 1.800.230.3030 • Int'l: 1.330.630.0230 SCode: 2108MO • Prices subject to change without notice. Visit SummitRacing.com for current pricing. Typographical, description, or photography errors are subject to correction. Some parts are not legal for use in California or other states with similar laws/regulations. Please check your state and/or local laws/regulations. © 2021 AUTOSALES, INC.

MODERN RODDING STARTING OVER

InTheGarageMedia.com

country. Both of us would talk about our life’s plans; he was most assuredly working his. Turns out Craig had plenty of friends, although you can never have enough, and while sitting behind the keyboard I had the opportunity to go over a myriad of Craig-inspired stories. Turns out Randy Borcherding of Painthouse (a Texasbased shop known for their expertise, especially in all things related to paint) was a close friend of Craig’s. Each enjoyed a similar excitement about their chosen vocations and shared countless stories about their much-enjoyed avocations. When talking to Randy, he said it best about a loss any of us might experience. “We all have a ‘Born On’ and a ‘Died On’ date. What we do in between those dates is the important part. There is no doubt Craig left behind an enviable legacy. From quite literally exploring the globe to revolutionizing an entire industry, what he accomplished in his fleeting 46 years is nothing short of epic.” I believe that sums up Craig pretty well. Randy also went on to tell me, “Craig was a once-in-alifetime, one-of-a-kind shooting star in the galaxy of humans we exist within. His smile, humor, and passion for anything he touched, not only the hot rod industry, BY BRIAN BRENNAN WITH RANDY BORCHERDING but his friends and family, were to be admired, and more ’ve always said the best reason to be a hot rodder importantly, emulated. His wake has spread far and wide.” comes from the true friends you garner. Make sure to hold them close because they are special and According to Randy he and Craig became fast friends rare, and enjoy their company whether behind the “because of the industry we are both passionate about but wheel, under the hood, or at the dinner table. For me, to find also because of our quirky sense of humor, a mutual love myself sitting in a parking lot ingesting a pizza and a few cold of an outdoor adventure, and, perhaps, an appreciation for ones after a hot day of tramping around blistering asphalt is the occasional glass of ‘high-quality brown-colored water.’” a blessing come true. One such “special and rare” individual was Craig Morrison from Art Morrison Enterprises out of And that brings me to a saying that Craig repeated often Washington. Craig was my friend and a friend to countless and I would hear for years to come. While at an industry others. Having good friends to enjoy is hard enough to come function such as a car event, trade show, or while working on a story the subject would come up about having a “cold by but losing one has proven to be very painful. one.” I would offer and he would always say to me, “Well, it I’ve said this before when writing about the loss of a would be rude to refuse, so thank you.” I would chuckle, as friend, “If you want all of the details you will have to look would all those around. I was never in the man’s presence elsewhere because you probably won’t find them here.” when he didn’t have an infectious smile that immediately For me, my reflections about 46-year-old Craig are more everyone would see and respond in kind. about the loss of a friend and what that means than the whys and wherefores. To me everything else is “stuff.” To support my hypothesis let me share another quote He was noticeably younger than I but it never stopped from Randy: either one of us from talking “shop,” enjoying a good laugh, or mapping out where we wanted to end up and “His smile, we all know that ever-present, sincere, and often how we would get there. Aside from our hot rod world, mischievous smile. I have never seen a photo where Craig we enjoyed the outdoors, especially the mountains, was not smiling or laughing, none of which was posed or Jeeps, four-wheeling, and the friends we have across this staged. Seeds of happiness planted.”

A Moment in Time

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING STARTING OVER Craig was known for his sense of humor; man he could be fun. On more than one occasion I found myself shuffling off to bed while he continued to entertain and be entertained by his growing world of friends. One night at an industry trade show we had numerous pizzas delivered to the room and for hours the Morrisons (Craig and his dad, Art) would play the part of the perfect hosts by making sure everyone had something to eat and something to wash it down, all the time laughing and smiling and telling stories. Some of those stories had to have been “whoppers”! I remember going back to my room that night only to return to theirs the next morning and found pizza remnants on the table and possibly 50 water-soaked bath towels on the floor. Not sure exactly what happened but I know everyone around was laughing and smiling along with the Morrisons.

InTheGarageMedia.com

In thinking, how can an individual like Craig be replaced. Well, he can’t. Randy will tell you that, “Sadly, we are all left with a Craig-shaped hole in our lives. This hole appeared tragically and suddenly, without respect for timing or reason.” The best thing any of us can do when we lose someone of such proportions in our own lives is to remember them and all of the good that they brought to us and all those around. By remembering the good the sadness will not vanish but it will at the very least become more manageable. In speaking with Randy, he went on to say, “If there is one lesson I have gleaned from all of this tragedy it is the alltoo-true fact that life is far too short, whether you are called home at 6, 46, or 106. I plan to slow down and enjoy myself more, just as he was so adept at doing.”

According to Randy (which I wholeheartedly concur), “His sense of humor was nothing short of infinite, infectious, and spontaneous. If you were around Craig, or had his phone number, there was always a joke to be heard or a life story to be shared. Seeds of joy planted.”

I would be willing to guess, and I believe Randy would agree, that for all of the love we have for our industry and/ or hobby we probably invest too much time in these cars and not enough time with the living, breathing friends who we have become so close to. Friends are irreplaceable; hot At the time of his death, Craig and I were working on rods, well, there’s always the next project. a project. Over the years we had worked on many magazine stories but this time the project was something It should be noted that Craig has a son, 12-year-old nearer to me. I found myself really enjoying getting into Alexander, who to this point enjoyed a mother and father the minutia, so many details, but it was fun to “listen” to who were, are, totally devoted to giving him a foundation his mind work as he sorted out my random wanderings that will serve him well for the rest of his life. and kept me on path. To Alexander: When you need an answer to one of life’s I believe the first time we met was right around the challenges, look to your mom for guidance as well as others millennium. It began with telephone conversations, lots in your family. Remember, you came from them too. If you of emails, and then came the first “face-to-face” meeting find yourself looking for some real insight about your dad, with himself and Art. I will never forget. He and Art had look to Grandma Jeanette. All of us are what we become based just driven down to our offices in SoCal with the first on our foundation and it was she who was the guiding force 1955 Chevy to be outfitted with their brand-new Tri-Five behind your dad. She is one heck of an adventurer and we are chassis. This was the first one and let me tell you how pretty sure that’s where your dad got his sense of adventure; excited all of us were to see it. I can remember clearly how his“what’s out there” curiosity. She masterfully raised a family Craig and Art explained how they would take off-ramps while Grandpa Art was building the family business. Once your just so they could feel how well the car would handle dad wanted to learn more as a businessman, an outdoorsman, at speed and then negotiate the next on-ramp so they and a great hot rodder it was Grandpa Art who was there. MR could accelerate back up to speed. Now, for those of you who know Art, he too is built with a perpetual smile and a “spring” in his voice. The eternal optimist. I knew that going in but here I was looking at a twentysomethingyear-old who was a carbon copy of the old man. Craig was full of the youthful exuberance, and rightfully so. Randy would say this, “Craig was a trendsetter in our industry but–more importantly–I saw him as a ‘friendsetter.’ Once you met him, a handshake was not enough. Hugs were the order of the day.” MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

In Motion Mike Braswell’s Bad Black Willys Built By Detroit Speed

TEXAS made

COOL!

Driving Your Hot Rod Should Be A Pleasure. For over forty years our goal has been to bring all -season comfor t a n d reliability to rod and custom enthusiasts. And we know t h a t installing air conditioning may seem complicated to the average car owner. But our factory trained d i s t r i bu t o rs h av e years of experience guiding rodders through the simple steps of selecting just the right combination of system components and controls to complete your custom installation. If you have a good collection of hand tools and some experience with modifications, like a cam or carburetion, your installation will be a straight ahead project.

No matter what type vehicle you are wanting to air condition, Vintage Air has the experience and components to get the job done right. Plus, if you should need additional advice, we have a full time technical staff ready to help. Call today to discuss your project. PRODUCT INFORMATION LINE:

Complete Catalog Online At : Gen IV is a trade name of Vintage Air Inc.

MODERN RODDING NEW PRODUCTS

InTheGarageMedia.com

3. 2. 2. AN OLD DOG WITH A NEW TRICK

1. SOMETHING NEW FOR 1933–1934 FORD GAUGES Classic Instruments has released 1933–1934 Ford car electronic-operation gauges. The cluster will include a speedometer, fuel level, temperature, oil pressure, and volt gauges, along with indicator lights. A matching 3-3/8-inch tachometer in a chrome mounting cup is also available. The fuel gauge is programmable for any ohm range with a selector switch on the back of the cluster, meaning the fuel gauge will work with the stock sending unit, any other factory sending units, or any Classic Instruments fuel sending unit. The package includes a machined, chrome-plated bezel and engine-turned aluminum faceplate. The standard sending unit kit included is Classic Instruments’ SNFD. For more info, check out Classic Instruments by calling (800) 575-0461 or visit classicinstruments.com.

With the popularity of custom builds, engine swaps with tight engine compartments, steering column, steering shaft, headers, and the frame itself, clearance has become more of a problem. A SEMA Best New Street Rod Product and Best New Engineered Product—the VDOG 90-degree steering gearbox from Flaming River—may be the answer to your woes. VDOG features a 35-degree variable angle, articulating ball output shaft, allowing for maximum adjustment of the steering angle to the steering gear and 3/4-inch-diameter, 36-spline input and output shafts for universal joint or coupler connection. The VDOG has no chains or sprockets providing instant steering response and can be mounted at multiple vertical and inverted positions within an engine compartment or behind dashboards or firewalls. It is made in the USA. For more info, check out Flaming River by calling (800) 648-8022 or visit flamingriver.com. MODERN RODDING

3. SEALED SHUT Steele Rubber Products now offers a new part for the 1958 Chevrolet Impala convertible: Convertible Roof Rail Weatherstrips (PN 70-4102-65). This set replaces factory PN 4724608/09 (front), PN 4724159/60 (center), and PN 4724031 (rear). You can also request from Steele Rubber Products a vehicle-specific catalog just for your 1958 Chevy Impala. This six-piece set, designed from original parts for proper fit and made from high-quality EPDM rubber, fits the folding roof of the 1958 Chevy Impala convertible to seal the side windows when fully raised. The rubber is molded over steel core inserts, again, ensuring durability and a proper fit. For more info, contact Steele Rubber Products by calling (800) 230-8101 or visit steelerubber.com.

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

WE ENGINEERED THE QUIT OUT OF IT At OPTIMA® we build and test every battery in the world’s most advanced facility. Everything that goes in guarantees you get the most out — on the track, the trail, the water … anywhere ultimate power, performance and reliability is needed. LEARN MORE AT OPTIMABATTERIES.COM

A CLARIOS BRAND

WATCH HOW QUALITY IS MADE

MODERN RODDING FEATURE

BY BRIAN BRENNAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN JACKSON

he Chevrolet El Camino for all of its popularity was late coming to market and suffered through fits and starts. It was as early as 1952 that GM’s own Harley Earl suggested a “coupe pickup.” Yet the El Camino didn’t enter the market segment until 1959, two years after the Ford Ranchero, and then initially it lasted for only two seasons in 1959 and 1960. The El Camino began with the 1959-1960 years, followed by the 1964-1967s, the 1968-1972s, 1973-1977s, and 1978-1987s. It should be noted that 1959-1960 was based on the B-body platform. From 1964-1977 the El Camino was based on the Chevelle platform, while 1978-1987 was based in the G-body platform.

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

InTheGarageMedia.com

Two for the Price of One: The Chevy El Camino

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

MODERN RODDING FEATURE

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

InTheGarageMedia.com

Based on the new-for-1959 Brookwood twodoor station wagon, it benefited from the completely redesigned Chevrolet body style, outselling the Ranchero in 1959. It did have a distinct advantage over the new Brookwood and the sedan delivery alternative; the El Camino was available with any of the fullsized Chevrolet drivetrains and came in a single mid-level trim: the Bel Air. The original El Camino was also touted as the first Chevrolet “pickup” built with a steel rather than wood bed floor. Hidden beneath the bed was the floorpan from the two-door wagon, complete with foot wells. Among the V-8s offered there was the base 283 with a two- or four-barrel carb, then came a 348 with either a four-barrel or three two-barrel carb setup producing 355 hp, and then the rarest of all the 250- or 290hp 283 with Rochester Ramjet fuel injection.

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

MODERN RODDING FEATURE And that brings us to George Lange’s 1970 Chevy El Camino from Alloway’s Hot Rod Shop (AHRS). It features Chevrolet’s largest displacement and potent V-8 of the day—what appears to be an LS6 454 pumping 450 hp and 500 lb-ft of torque is really an outwardly nearly correct looking engine, but the “heartbeat” comes from a Jeff Taylor Performance–built big-block that sports stock exhaust manifolds run through 2-1/2-inch stainless tubing matched to a pair of Borla ProXS mufflers that is all neatly fabricated by Barillaro Speed Emporium. Other engine accessories include a Vintage Air Front Runner, Powermaster starter, a stock-appearing ignition with Taylor wires, and a Cooling Components electric fan partnered with a Walker radiator. The big-block is then bolted via an American Powertrain system, which includes a TREMEC TKO five-speed, a Centerforce clutch, and a GM flywheel. Once this power is gathered up it is sent back to a 4:11-packed 12-bolt rearend from GearFX Driveline. Harnessing the powertrain is a stock frame with a Detroit Speed IFS, which includes the Wilwood Pro dropped spindles, JRi coilover shocks at the corners, and Wilwood calipers, hubs, and rotors in front and Chevy drums in back while Detroit Speed front and rear sway bars are positioned. Holding this potent chassis off the ground is a set of Super Sport wheels, not factory

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

(although they look the part) but rather are custom made by Billet Specialties measuring 17x7 and 20x9.5 shod with Continental high-performance 235/45ZR17 and 275/45ZR20 rubber. What began as a grocery getter was turned into the heartthrob of the Chevelle world, an LS6 454 equipped and a cowl induction hood street machine, while retaining the remainder of the stock sheetmetal. AHRS once again showed their expertise in body- and paintwork covering the El Camino in PPG 9700 Black basecoat with 2002 clear. Once again, another peek inside shows off plenty of the original OE look. However, upon closer inspection you realize that this “re-manufactured” big-block hot rod now sports SS bucket seats minus its original Naugahyde coverings replaced by beautiful black leather stitched by Steve Holcomb of Pro Auto Custom Interior. Holcomb also covered the floor with black Daytona Weave carpeting. Still giving the appearance of stock, the factory dash is furnished with Classic Instruments mechanically updated but original-looking gauges. Pulling all the electrics together is plenty of custom wiring from the busy hands at AHRS. The gennie column is now topped with a Lecarra three-spoke and leather-wrapped wheel showing off the Chevy factory horn button. MR

Monty Belsham’s AMBR Award Winner

Build It Better! Make Any Street Rod The Best It Can Be With ARP Fasteners

Head/Main Studs & Bolts

Connecting Rod Bolts

Exhaust Fasteners

Driveline Bolts & Studs

Wheel Studs

Valve Cover Bolts & Studs

Accessory Fasteners

Carburetor Bolts & Studs

Q ARP Stainless is 20% stronger than Grade 8 Q Made in-house at ARP’s California facilities

Building a Chevy LS/LX, Ford Coyote or Gen III Hemi? Get these informative Product Guides online.

Q Manufactured to the industry’s highest standards Q Family owned and operated since 1968

800-826-3045 www.arp-bolts.com

Check out the 5,000-plus fastener kits online or request a free printed copy of the latest ARP catalog

MODERN RODDING TECH

Enhance Your Braking With a CPP Modular Brake Kit and Spindles

POWERFUL STOPPERS BY BRIAN BRENNAN

here’s an old expression that states: “You shouldn’t drive faster than you can stop.” Notice we wrote, “shouldn’t,” given the fact many rodders don’t always do what they should do when they should do it! But the smart ones realize getting out in front of a problem is the best way to avoid a problem. Something all of us should always closely watch is our hot rod’s braking capacity. Knowing this we thought it a good idea to take a look at what’s offered from Classic Performance Products (CPP) in the way of stopping power for one of the most popular brake systems used in our world.

the swap. That brings us to the CPP Mustang II Modular Spindle Wheel Brake Kit (PN M2SWBK-MOD-S) for stock height spindles that will fit the popular Mustang II IFS. CPP also offers a 2-inch drop one-piece forged spindle for this same kit (PN M2SWBK-MOD-D) that will work in the same applications. Should you go for the 2-inch drop spindle you will want to make sure that you have the proper wheel and tire clearance within the front wheelwell area for both suspension travel, turning, and ground clearance for the undercarriage.

To show off the CPP Mustang II Modular Spindle Wheel Brake Kit we used this 1941 Ford. The front suspension is One of if not the most popular swap in our hobby is the the ever-popular Mustang II IFS that rolls on Coker Classic Mustang II front crossmember with IFS. It has shown up Firestone rubber mounted to Wheel Vintiques steelies. under every kind of hot rod imaginable and for good reason—it works. But you can always improve on a good The CPP Kit thing if you know what to look for and how to accomplish The CPP Mustang II Modular Spindle Wheel Brake Kit MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

1. Classic Performance Products (CPP) offers their Mustang II Modular Spindle Wheel Brake Kit in both a stock height (PN M2SWBK-MOD-S) and drop (PN M2SWBK-MOD-D) spindle. Particularly helpful is the kit comes fully assembled with all of the necessary hardware to make the swap quick and accurate.

2. The spindles are bare from CPP; should you want them painted, you will need to disassemble and give them a coat or two of color before reassembly.

3-5. Disassembly of your front brake and spindle package will require your old brakes, spindles, and separation of tie-rod end related to steering.

6. Odds are you will need a hammer to “shock” the tie-rod ends in order for them to loosen and then remove. At this point leave the castle nut in place so that the tie-rod end doesn’t fall to the ground.

7. Before removing the caliper make sure to disconnect the brake line. In this case our project car had stainless flexible brake lines that we wish to retain. The kit comes with rubber lines. Your choice but we like the flexible look and performance.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

10.

8-9. Working on the upper control arm here we are loosening the ball joint. Hand tools will get this job done—and a good hammer! 10. Here we are positioning the CPP stock height spindle between the A-arms and held in location by the upper and lower ball joints.

can be ordered with stock or 2-inch drop spindles. While the kit comes with a “solid face” two-piece rotor (forged aluminum hub and slip-on rotor) the kit can be ordered with drilled-and-slotted rotors for enhanced performance and looks. It also comes in all of the popular bolt patterns: 5x4.5, 5x4.75, 5x5, 5x5.5, and 6x5.5. The 11.75-inch rotors offer 32 percent more stopping power than industry standard (other kits offer 9-inch rotors) for a Mustang II brake kit. The spindles themselves are proprietary to CPP and are part of their modular spindle line that can be used with the 11.75inch rotors and the CPP Big Bore calipers or other popular aftermarket big brake kits. The kit itself comes with a pair of rotors, hubs, spindles (stock or 2-inch drop), calipers and brackets with hardware, rubber brake lines with hardware, and bearings and seals to upgrade your Mustang II IFS.

MODERN RODDING

11-12. If the hole in the ball joint is oriented in a way that makes it tough or impossible to install a cotter pin (or key as it is sometimes called), you can use a small screwdriver to rotate the ball joint stud to your liking. 13-14. Next, tighten the upper and lower ball joints with the castle nuts and cotter pins. The castle nut should be tightened until snug, then backed off slightly, about maybe an eighth of a turn or until you can slide the pin into position. Remember to bend each length of the pin back around the nut.

11.

12.

13.

14.

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

Request the Best

REQUEST DANCHUK QUALITY

BECOME A DANCHUK VIP AND GET REWARDED FOR YOUR LOYALTY - GIFT CARDS AND MERCH

WHEN ONLY THE BEST WILL DO FOR YOUR

'55 '56 '57 CHOOSE TRI-FIVE

CHOOSE TRI-FIVE

EXCLUSIVE

QUALITY

KNOWLEDGE

‘55 GRILLE, CHROME............. #478 ......$395.95/ea. ‘55 GRILLE, STAINLESS ......... #10203 ..$549.95/ea. ‘55 HOOD BIRD...................... #472 ......$164.95/ea. ‘55 HOOD EMBLEM W /BEZEL .............................................. #371 ........$74.95/ea. ‘55 TRUNK EMBLEM W/ BEZEL .............................................. #371A ......$74.95/ea. ‘55 CREST EMBLEM, GOLD .............................................. #365 ........$52.95/ea. ‘55 “BEL AIR” SCRIPT .......... #538 ........$64.95/ea. ‘55 GRILLE MOULDING SET.... #1564 ....$499.95/ea. ‘55 GAS DOOR GUARD ........... #489 ........$28.95/ea. ‘55 PAINT DIVIDERS .............. #152 ........$52.95/set ‘55 TAILLIGHT HOUSING ASSEMBLY .............................................. #15512 ..$269.95/set ‘55 DASH TRIM SET ............... #217A ....$189.95/set ‘55 DOOR HANDLE ASSY ........ #794 ........$99.95/set ‘55 UNDER TAILLGHT V8 EMBLEMS .............................................. #384 .........$59.95/pr.

‘56 GRILLE, CHROME............. #479 ......$384.95/ea. ‘56 GRILLE, STAINLESS ......... #14203 ..$549.95/ea. ‘56 HOOD BIRD...................... #484 ......$164.95/ea. ‘56 HOOD EMBLEM W/ BEZEL .............................................. #373A ......$62.95/ea. ‘56 TRUNK EMBLEM W/ BEZEL .............................................. #374A ......$62.95/ea. ‘56 CREST EMBLEM, CHROME .............................................. #365A ......$52.95/ea. ‘56 “CHEVROLET” SCRIPT .... #540 .........$69.95/pr. ‘56 GRILLE TIE BAR, CHROME .............................................. #14204 ..$119.95/ea. ‘56 HOOD VEES, V8................ #1041 ......$54.95/ea. ‘56 OUTSIDE REAR VIEW MIRROR .............................................. #531 ........$69.95/set ‘56 FENDER EXTENSIONS ...... #356 .......$149.95/pr. ‘56 DASH TRIM SET ............... #217B....$189.95/set ‘56 TAILLIGHT HOUSING ASSEMBLY .............................................. #1045 ....$579.95/set

‘57 GRILLE, 150/210 SILVER .............................................. #460A ....$139.95/ea. ‘57 GRILLE, BEL AIR, GOLD ... #460 ......$139.95/ea. ‘57 GRILLE, CHROME............. #460H....$199.95/ea. ‘57 GRILLE BAR ..................... #966 ......$419.95/set ‘57 HOOD ROCKET ASSEMBLY .............................................. #467 ......$299.95/ea. ‘57 CREST EMBLEM, SHOW QUALITY .............................................. #2342 .......$75.95/pr. ‘57 HOOD VEES, V8................ #590 ......$119.95/ea. ‘57 ALUMINUM SIDE PANELS .............................................. #573 .......$699.95/pr. ‘57 FENDER LOUVERS, GOLD . #530 ........$49.95/set ‘57 BUMPER BULLETS, CHROME .............................................. #330A .......$99.95/pr. ‘57 TRUNK VEES .................... #592 ......$119.95/ea. ‘57 DASH TRIM SET ............... #217 ......$199.95/set ‘57 TAILLIGHT HOUSING ASSEMBLY .............................................. #965 .......$469.95/pr.

Order a Catalog for $5 GET A FREE 2021 CALENDAR Order the most comprehensive Tri-Five catalog in the industry for $5, which is refunded to your account, and receive a FREE 2021 DANCHUK CALENDAR packed with beautiful Tri-Fives to enjoy all year. Calendar available while supplies last.

CHECK DANCHUK.COM FOR UPCOMING SHOWS • DEALER INQUIRIES WELCOME

(800)261-9890 DANCHUK.COM

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

Brake Lines This 1941 Ford has already been tinkered with and over time we have installed stainless steel brake lines. The CPP kit comes with traditional rubber lines so we have opted to stick with our stainless steel lines. It should be noted that over time with exposure to the elements heat braking generates and the rubber hose can become expended. Hence, it’s always a good idea to replace the brake lines you have with the fresh set provided in the CPP kit. In our everyday cars a rubber brake line is designed to last for up to six years (yes, all of us have much older on our daily drivers) so be on the lookout for cracks, tears, or even loose-hanging threads—this all means the hose is on the verge of developing leaks or failing. You can always upgrade through CPP to braided stainless steel brake hoses. Historically, the braided hose will withstand the pressure associated with the brake system and it doesn’t swell. As a result, the lifespan of braided hose is much longer than rubber hoses. Again, for the most part, we don’t drive our hot rods that often or subject them to the trials and tribulations as that of our “daily drivers.” However, the use of braided hose is more of a “it looks good” accessory rather than necessity, but that’s OK. Follow along with the photos to see how we performed the swap to the latest from CPP. In the meantime, let’s take a look at several important areas of service when it comes to properly functioning brake systems.

15-16. Should you purchase the complete CPP kit the wheel bearings come prepacked but should they be “dry” the bearing will need to be packed with wheel bearing grease. This can be done the old fashion way by hand (which I’m sure all of us have done at some time) or you can purchase an inexpensive and nifty wheel bearing grease tool such as the Harbor Freight universal bearing packer (PN LNL145).

15.

16.

17. Once the bearings are packed with the proper grease you can then install them into the hubs.

17.

18. Shown is the installation of the seal on the rear of the hub. If you purchased the complete CPP kit then this step is already handled for you.

Brake Fluids When it comes time to bleed your brakes you will want to use new brake fluid. Always use fresh brake fluid and stay away from brake fluid containers that are open, especially if they have been open for any time. Brake fluid can attract moisture (water) and that’s a no-no.

18.

What to use? Odds are you are familiar with either DOT 3 or DOT 4. What’s the difference? DOT 3 brake fluid will absorb less water than DOT 4 from the air over time, meaning you’ll change the system’s fluid less frequently. DOT 4 brake fluid has higher dry and wet boiling points, making it safer for higher operating temperatures. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

Dynamat® is the leader at stopping road noise and controlling heat. High levels of noise and heat develop in your vehicle due to impacts from the suspension and drivetrain. Stopping the noise-causing vibration with Dynamat® Xtreme® is the key to a quieter vehicle. Use our Dynaliner® on top of Dynamat® Xtreme® to drastically reduce heat where its needed. The two products work together better than a multi-layered, single style product. Dynamat® Brand Products control noise and heat across automotive, marine, home, architectural and commercial environments.

Discover the Dynamat Diﬀerence. www.dynamat.com

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

Are they compatible? Yes, DOT 3 brake fluid is compatible with DOT 4 brake fluid. However, you should really never mix brake fluids, thereby avoiding dilution and contamination of the braking fluid properties. (Do not mix DOT 5, synthetic, brake fluid with any other, especially DOT 3 or 4.) Something else to keep in mind: Never reuse brake fluid and never mix old with new. Flush your system of the old before installing fresh fluid. Bleeding Brakes Bleeding one’s brakes can be easily achieved with any one of the numbers of vacuum brake bleeding kits that are on the market. Give a look-see in the Harbor Freight catalog for affordable options. They typically work in this fashion. Instead of forcing air and fluid out of the caliper via the brake pedal, it is sucked out with a vacuum pump hooked to a bleeder bottle (container). Next, fill the master cylinder, suck out the old fluid and any air, and close the bleeder. Then move onto the next wheel. What order should I bleed the brakes? It’s common in cases to begin with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. Typically, this is the passenger rear. From here you move to the driver rear, then the passenger front, and then the driver front. Check the brake fluid after bleeding each corner. If there is air in the line that will be readily noticeable because you will have the sensation of a soft or spongy pedal. It’s the bleeding of the brakes that removes this air and gives you back the firm pedal feel.

19-21. Many of us have probably done this step a time or two: the tightening of the outer wheel bearing. It entails installing the flat washer, spindle nut, the nut cage, and cotter pin. Tighten nut to 12 lb-ft, then spin hub to endure bearings are seated. Is the nut still tight (yes)? Then back off nut until it’s “just” loose. The cotter pin goes through the hole in spindle while the cage nut backs up against the pin. This allows enough “play” but pin cannot back out. Last step install the dust cap.

19.

20.

21.

22. Install the disc brake caliper bracket to the back side of the spindle.

22.

Given we were changing just the front brakes on the 1941 Ford that was by no means an excuse to not fully bleed the system and remove the old brake fluid and then refill with fresh DOT 3 fluid. You have now accomplished two projects: You have brand-new front brakes and you have performed brake maintenance by flushing out the old brake fluid from the system and replacing with fresh fluid. Breaking in New Brakes This is a step that we are all aware of but because it does require time and effort, we tend not to properly break in our brakes. Breaking in fresh brake pads and rotors is called “bedding.” There are several ways of doing this but below is an accepted way to handle our street-driven hot rods. Probably best to do this early on a Sunday morning when there’s an absence of traffic. Odds are you most likely performed the brake project on a Saturday, so the timing is perfect. If you can find a country-like road you will be better off, or find yourself a really large parking lot.

MODERN RODDING

23.

24.

23-24. Here Louis installs the rotor. There are also drilled-and-slotted rotors, if so desired. Use a pair of lug nuts (wheel nuts) to hold the rotor in place before beginning the caliper installation. VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

WHEN FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION TOUGH ENOUGH FOR THE EXTREME, BUT MADE FOR EVERYDAY DRIVING. DURALAST PARTS ARE ENGINEERED TO MEET OR EXCEED OE PERFORMANCE, AND THEY'RE TESTED TO HOLD UP IN EVEN THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS ON OUR PROVING GROUNDS. BECAUSE YOUR SHOPS’ REPUTATION DEMANDS IT, AND YOUR CUSTOMERS DEPEND ON IT.

EXPLORE THE PROVING GROUNDS DURALASTPARTS.COM © 2021 AutoZone, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Duralast and Duralast Gold are registered marks of AutoZone IP, LLC or one of it’s affiliates. All other marks are property of their respective owners.

MODERN RODDING TECH

25.

25-26. Install the calipers and tighten to specifications provided by CPP in their instructions.

InTheGarageMedia.com

You will want to accelerate up to 35 mph and while using moderate brake pressure slow down to 5 mph. You will want to repeat this process two to three times. Next, you will speed up to 55 mph and then use “strong” brake pressure to slow down to 5 mph, repeating this step four to five times.

26.

Lastly, while driving moderately for 10 minutes plus this will allow the brakes to slowly cool down. After you have accomplished this then you can park your hot rod for at least an hour or so until the brakes fully cool. After this you should have bedded pads and rotors and you are “good to go.”

27.

27. Use the provided banjo bolt with its copper compression washers (two, one each side of bolt) to install the brake line to the caliper bottom. Once done, spin the rotor and make sure all clears the caliper and brake line.

28.

29.

30.

31.

Experience has taught us that having new, high-quality brakes, is an immediate “feel good” situation. You don’t have to go out and get yourself into a “panic” situation as even the most mundane of driving will allow you to immediately feel the value of quality brakes. Remember, you really shouldn’t be driving any faster than you can safely stop! MR

28. Don’t forget to install the bleed screw, it goes on top of the caliper. 29. Next you will retighten the brake at the chassis contact point. 30-31. Make sure to now reinstall the tie rod as it’s always a good idea to use a new cotter pin.

32.

32. With new brake pads and rotors it’s important to properly break them in. The process is called “bedding.” The idea is to put a layer of brake material onto the surface of the rotor from the brake pad.

SOURCE CLASSIC PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS (866) 882-6882 classicperform.com

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE

BY BRIAN BRENNAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN JACKSON

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

InTheGarageMedia.com

FoMoCo Never Had This in Mind When They Were Designing the 1971 Ford Ranchero

ow often have any, or maybe all, of us started in one direction only to make an unsuspecting turn midway through our journey. Such was the case for Mike and Lynn Connor of Tennessee and their 1971 Ford Ranchero.

It was back in 2013 that the Connors were alerted a friend was selling his 1971 Ranchero, piquing Mike’s interest. It seemed like a cool project, so a deal was struck and to its new home went the Ranchero. What was to be a mild-mannered rebuild turned into something more—but that wasn’t the end of the story. Another friend of Mike’s was a longtime dirt track racer and metal fabricator. This led to a series of suspension upgrades, including a fresh Mustang II IFS, a narrowed rearend filled with Strange Engineering goodies, and then the two of them designed and built their own rear four-link. From here a freshened-up 351 and overdrive transmission was added. Next up, the unsuspecting “turn” arises mid project. After the suspension and other mods were completed, it was off to the paint shop, which should have been a very happy day. It was at this precise moment that Mike was informed his 1971 Ranchero was “too far gone” for final paint and something else would have to be done. Probably not the most fortuitous time to find out that your pride and joy isn’t paintable and, we might add, not the end of unforeseen “lane changes”! Mike did round up another 1971 Ranchero but now it’s 2015 and two years have gone up in smoke. (We won’t mention the lost time—labor and budget.) Mike brought both Rancheros home where he relocated parts from one to the other. In what has become a story we hear far too often, the original shop now had control of the second Ranchero with its fresh parts and in 2017 informed Mike that they were closing their doors and, “… to please come and get your car out of our shop. …” Not cool, but what were Mike’s choices? Remember, four years have now passed and Mike still doesn’t have the freshened-up 1971 Ranchero he was hoping to drive around with Lynn.

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

MODERN RODDING FEATURE A great deal of bodywork and other sheetmetal work was initiated at this point. The Ranchero sat in primer, an aluminum bed cover in its beginning stages was visible, an egg-crate grille had been mocked up, and the exterior door handles were shaved. One modification though was a good one and would be kept. The Ford Ranchero B-pillars weren’t deemed attractive enough for this ride so fresh B-pillars were made that were aesthetically pleasing, like the El Camino B-pillar. As any hot rodder has learned, one change leads to another. The factory bedrail and roof moldings were no longer usable and would need replacing. It was at this time that Randy Borcherding of Painthouse (Cypress, Texas) came onto the scene. Mike was introduced to Borcherding by another good friend of Mike’s, Jan Van Kooten of Stitch by Stitch Designs in Cookeville, Tennessee. Taking Keith Kaucher’s original artwork and then modifying it to fit the new dream it was back out into the shop. Borcherding bestowed the name “El Ranchero” upon his latest project, paying homage to both the Ranchero and the El Camino. With Kaucher’s “ink to paper” ideas in hand, Borcherding and everyone at Painthouse began at, where else, the front by finishing up a Torino GT-style frontend, complete with hood scoop and hidden headlights. From here the obligatory “tucked” front and rear (with custom license plate position) bumper treatment was initiated, giving it a cleaner appearance.

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

According to Borcherding rodders might not notice the external trim but it’s most assuredly not stock. Factory trim fits but it doesn’t really fit. Knowing this, Borcherding began the tedious task of making the freshly created trim fit. In back there’s an aluminum bed cover that’s actuated via a remotely operated electric motor. Inside the bed area it’s carpeted with the same interior carpet and it’s painted in a matte finish body color, same as the underhood. The body has undergone a handful of well thought out changes to enhance the already-strong appearance of the 1971 Ranchero. Borcherding opted to make a pair of custom LED taillights that fit into the end of the two quarter-panels and in so doing solved two problems: the factory lenses are very good looking and they are nearly impossible to find. Stitch by Stitch not only handled the upholstery but also came up with the hand-molded bed and roof moldings, handmade bedrail inserts, tailgate molding (one piece) and interior moldings were created out of brass. According to Borcherding a great deal of credit goes to Van Kooten. “He came to our shop, stayed at our home, and worked for a week to create molds (on the body) and hand pour the shapes needed using some high-end manufacturing resin. Once the shapes were created, we then bodyworked, refined, sanded, and painted the moldings to fit the vehicle. Van Kooten came up with the resin-based idea and it has worked splendidly to date, despite our heat, humidity, and the rare Houston-freezing, several-days-long snowstorm.”

InTheGarageMedia.com

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

MODERN RODDING FEATURE Once these pieces were fitted, they were sent off to Advanced Plating for chrome. After Painthouse was finished with the never-ending block sanding, the custom-created PPG Deltron basecoat color called Dark Maroondy Pearl was applied. According to Borcherding, it’s a two-stage PPG basecoat/clearcoat, very easy to spray and match. This was followed with six coats of DCU2021 urethane clearcoat shortly followed with lots of wet sanding and polishing with Griot’s Garage Stuff. The engine and bed area are also body color but the matte finish was achieved by applying PPG matte clear (D8115). There’s a wide matte finish stripe on the hood achieved by spraying on more custom-created paint, this time Gray Pearl titled Greyt 8. This color was also used on the bed cover and handmade bedrail moldings, the engine, and transmission. The handmade air cleaner is also painted in the same color but this time finished off in a DCU2021 gloss to give the shiny appearance. On the flipside, PPG epoxy primer was used along with U-POL Raptor Liner and then a satin black PPG finish. The power for the 1971 Ranchero comes by way of a 351 Cleveland punched out to 408 inches and fed by a modern Holley Terminator electronic fuel injection, an MSD ignition, and topped off with a custom air cleaner made at the Painthouse. The exhaust system is based on a pair of Doug’s headers flowing into 2-1/2-inch custom stainless steel tubes with electric cutouts and completely wrapped using Heatshield Products Lava wrap, all completed by the Painthouse. More accessories include a pair of SPAL electric fans, a March alternator, and a pair of Optima YellowTop batteries located in the bed. Backed up to the Cleveland is a Ford AOD trans and this combo ushering the 450 hp and some 450 lb-ft of

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

InTheGarageMedia.com

torque back to the Ford 9-inch rearend equipped with 3.25 gears. Corralling this power is a stock frame that’s outfitted with a Mustang II IFS, rack-and-pinion, and features QA1 coilovers in the front and rear, Wilwood Pro spindles, and a pair of Wilwood 13-inch rotors, fourpiston calipers along with a Wilwood master cylinder, and factory pedal assembly. A set of Schott Accelerator wheels are covered with Michelin rubber, measuring 235/40R18 and 345/30R19 at the corners. The interior was handled by Van Kooten, owner and craftsman of Stitch by Stitch. Van Kooten covered the interior and custom-made seats in Moore & Giles graycolored hides. He also made the center console, complete audio, and handmade brass and chrome moldings. A German square-weave carpet was selected (also in the bed area) for use inside. A narrowed 1971 Mustang dash is utilized while the Ranchero cabin is incorporated with a headliner and visors that tuck up along with the hidden sound system. Dakota Digital VHX gauges, an American Autowire Highway 22 Plus system, and a Flaming River steering column with a Billet Specialties leather-wrapped wheel are also deployed. A little closer look and you will see the Classic Auto Air A/C and the March serpentine belt system with a Billet Specialties manifold on the compressor. The El Ranchero was widely accepted over the past year, which is an accomplishment unto itself given what all of us have gone through. It was awarded Top 12 in the 2020 SEMA Battle of the Builders competition and finishing as one of the Top 3 Trucks. In 2021, the Connors hope to compete and do well in the Goodguys Truck of the Year (Late) pick. Time will tell but we believe this 1971 Ford Ranchero will be a hard one to beat. MR

MODERN RODDING TECH BY GERRY BURGER

DEPARTMENT INTERIOR OF THE

It took some world-class fabricators, but with time and effort the old hot rod became a metal masterpiece. Now it was time to bring the interior up to that same level.

Aluminum Paneling & One Dashing Custom Dash MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

e have been following along with the construction of the Bill Sather 1934 Ford five-window coupe at BBT Fabrications for the past year. With the exterior of the car flawlessly metal-finished it was time to take a look inside. With a traditional hot rod profile on the exterior, the interior consists of current-day metal shaping while maintaining the hot rod flavor. Actually, that has been the theme throughout the build, forming a traditional hot rod but with the fit and finish of a show-worthy, modern-day hot rod. Even the powerplant is a blend of both worlds, with a big GMC 6-71 blower pumping wind into a modern LS motor that lies below.

1. We are dealing with interior metal fabrication, so first we must travel back in time. The floor was fabricated early in the build and welded into the body before chopping the top. This gave the body the structural rigidity required (along with ample crossbracing).

2. The entire floorpan was fabricated on the bare chassis before being attached to the body. Here we see the sheetmetal being formed to the shape of the framerails. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

The interior design draws heavily on the original 1934 Ford five-window coupe shapes but it’s also cleaner, better fitting, and will make for a very sanitary interior. The “bellypan” under the dashboard is an example of that concept. This removable panel will hide everything from the Vintage Air components to the wiring while providing a panel to mount the A/C ducts. The hood release mechanism also protrudes through the panel for more of that sanitized look.

3. The transmission and driveshaft tunnel was fabricated and added to the floorpan. A combination of welding and riveting join the panels, while the raised panels look great and stiffen the sheetmetal. 4. Here is the finished floorpan on the chassis waiting to be attached to the body. Note the very nice rear crossmember housing riveted to the rear of the floor. An angle lip was formed inside the body and the floorpan will be welded to that lip.

5. It seems sad to cover all of that great metalwork with sound deadening material, but that is all part of the process. The good news is the metalwork shows nicely when viewing the underside of this hot rod.

6. While the top side of the floor may be covered with sound deadening material, the bottom view will be finish-painted so the work can still be appreciated.

7. The doors were converted to “suicide doors” and part of that process was installing an all-new bear claw latch system. This system utilizes the stock door handle with all-new latching assembly. 8. The actual latch was welded into the doorjamb; this jamb once held hinges before the doors were reverse opened. The excellent metalwork makes the bear claw latch look like a factory piece.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

9. The latch pin mounts to the A-pillar so the door will close securely. Bear claw latches are secure and do not exert any pressure on the door opening like the original latches.

10. After the fabrication of the door latches were complete, BBT formed these perfectly fitted door panels. Also notice the nicely finished garnish moldings. A simple door handle will be located in the center of the door. Power windows eliminate the need for a crank handle. The small pin below the latch is a safety latch/door lock.

11.

10.

12.

11. Not all interiors include a fuel and battery, but in the case of the Sather coupe both the custom-fabricated fuel tank and battery mount are located behind the seat. The mount on the right will hold an Optima battery.

The headliner, door panels, and all interior are hand-formed aluminum, the craftsmanship is so nice one may be tempted to leave the interior in bare metal. The final plan is to cover them in leather, and so, like many things on a good hot rod, much of this work will be covered. The same goes for the floorpan. The beautiful metalwork will be covered with sound-deadening material, but all is not lost as the metalwork is easily seen when viewing the underside of the car.

14.

12. Since the coupe will have EFI two fuel lines are required, a feed and a return line. Both are beautifully formed and connected to a bulkhead fitting that passes the lines through the floor panel. 13. After all the fuel and electrical needs were addressed, the trunk interior panels were fabricated. The stamped panels use the same basic design on each panel. Note the positive and negative connectors leading to the Optima battery.

13.

15.

14. Troy Gudgel handled all this fabrication, including the new doorsills. These doorsills borrow heavily from the original design, but are cleaner and blend well with the rest of the sheetmetal on the car. 15. After fabricating an all-new dash, a “bellypan” for the dash was formed. This will make for a very tidy cabin. Note the A/C vents and hood latch handle. Speaking of air conditioning, this pan also hides the Vintage Air unit and all the wiring.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

16.

InTheGarageMedia.com

17. Once again team BBT showcased their talents with aluminum interior panels. Fabricating these panels will save the upholstery shop a lot of work while also dictating the final shape and contours of the interior.

18.

17.

18. Here we see the panels all in place, ready for upholstery. The business-like appearance would tempt some people to never cover the panels. Note the speaker hole nicely formed in the side panel. It will take a powerful stereo to overpower the sound of a 6-71 blown small-block Chevy.

16. A closer look at the big A/C vents on either side of the steering column. They will allow plenty of cool Vintage Air to be pumped down on the drivers’ feet. Once all this is upholstered it will be very stylish.

19.

19. The headliner is simply gorgeous. Plain and simple with a minimum of contours it will look great upholstered. It’s a great example of “less is more.”

20.

20. While there is a lot to love about the interior panels, this modified dashboard is still the crown jewel. At first glance it may appear stock but the centerpiece has been narrowed and lengthened and a valance added below the entire dash. The Dakota Digital RTX package is the perfect gauge cluster for this dash. 21. This original dash allows us to see how the original design remains, but was enhanced to house all the required components, making for a great street rod dash.

21.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH 22. The engine-turned insert from Dakota Digital with the bone-colored gauges is pure vintage flavor. Custom A/C vents complete the dash package.

InTheGarageMedia.com

Space and time prevent us from showing you the step-by-step fabricating of this amazing interior. Instead, we decided a good pictorial of the interior in bare metal would give you ample ideas for your own street rod. While you may not have the tools or the talent to do everything you see on these pages, you should be able to garner some great ideas and inspiration for your own effort. Let’s take a look inside Bill Sather’s 1934 Ford five-window coupe. MR

22.

23. The back side of the Dakota Digital gauges shows a clean-and-simple mounting system with plug-and-play wiring. This makes for one very clean wiring harness. 24. Here we see the dashboard installed in the car. The glovebox door remains to be fabricated, but the overall look is simply stunning. A very nice detail is the slightly raised panel housing the Dakota Digital gauge cluster.

23.

SOURCES BBT FABRICATIONS (217) 586-5699 bbtfabrications.com DAKOTA DIGITAL (800) 852-3228 dakotadigital.com OPTIMA BATTERIES optimabatteries.com VINTAGE AIR (800) 727-7094 vintageair.com

24.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE

Bowtie

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

Delight

The American Tri-Five Association Will Give This 1957 Chevy 150 Away at Their 6th Annual Tri-Five Nationals BY BRIAN BRENNAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GABRIELLE SAUERLAND

omeone is going home this summer with this 1957 Chevy 150 built by Woody’s Hot Rodz (WHR) as it will be given away at the 6th Annual Danchuk Tri-Five Nationals, held August 12-14. One might imagine driving home two cars could be a real “pain” but we are also thinking this hard luck tale is one all of us would gladly endure.

It’s summer, which means hot rods, sun, and fun with cars. It’s been a year where the majority of us were locked up, confined, shut down, shuttered, boarded up, or in some form or fashion put on “ice” and we are now ready to get out and have some fun. Each year the American Tri-Five Association holds their Danchuk TriFive Nationals in Bowling Green, Kentucky, at the iconic and most assuredly historic track Beech Bend Raceway. Steeped in tradition, the facility represents what’s good with having a weekend of fun at an event.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE If you are wondering if this was to be last summer’s giveaway grand prize you would be thinking in the correct direction. COVID-19 got everyone off track but now it’s time to unveil the 1957 Chevy 150 built at WHR in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. Constructed from unsullied Golden Star Classic Auto Parts (GSCAP) sheetmetal and an equally brand-new chassis from WHR it was built in 12 weeks. It sat during the hiatus but the time was well spent applying final touches, making it ready for this summer’s Danchuk Tri-Five Nationals. The Axalta Onyx Black and Colonial Cream was generously applied over the final sheetmetal and bodywork at WHR under the watchful spray pattern of Brian Graber (longest tenured employee at WHR at 16 years). One of the nifty external touches to the GSCAP

MODERN RODDING

sheetmetal is the OE-looking “Fuel Injection” emblems on the rear quarter-panels as well as the Route 66 150 side trim. The GSCAP newly minted metal is stock in all of its appearance but it’s what’s underneath the skin that one has to pay close attention to the detail to realize this is both a freshly minted 1957 Chevy but also one that sports loads of modern-day hot rod technology. This 1957 Chevy 150 is most assuredly fuel injected, not the mechanical Ram Jet from decades past but rather a brand-new LS376 (6.2L) Connect and Cruise package from Ed Rinke Chevrolet Buick GMC. The backend of the powertrain is a 4L70E trans, also from Ed Rinke, finishing out the C&C package. But we are not about to leave out the attentiongrabbing accessory that makes the fuel injection on this V-8 something special.

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

Resting on top of the LS is an LS Classics Series from Lokar Performance Products, which gives you all of the performance you would expect from an LS V-8 but with a vintage look. To be specific, the fuel injection is reminiscent of 1957 fuel-injection package one might have found on a 1957 Chevy of the day. This modern EFI brings back all of the vintage looks of the original mechanical fuel injection but the performance is oh-so modern and powerful. More engine goodies include a Holley Sniper in-tank EFI fuel pump that feeds the Holley Terminator X-Max with spent gases running out of the Hooker cast exhaust manifolds that butt up to WHR-fabricated 2-1/2inch exhaust tubing linked inline with a pair of Hooker Comp Turbo mufflers. A fun accessory is the Delco Tar Topper replica battery that gives a thorough taste of a vintage engine compartment but with the capability of meeting today’s electrical demands. Other engine dress items to continue the vintage look are the LS Classic faux distributor and coil kit.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE The WHR chassis is based on one of their newly produced frames, powdercoated by Creative Finishing, that utilizes a John’s Industries 9-inch rearend with 3.50 gears and 31-spline axles, also from John’s, along with a Cincinnati Driveline driveshaft. Resting behind the Mattson radiator is a RideTech suspension based on tubular A-arms, spindles, ShockWaves, and RideTech MuscleBar sway bar. The eye candy and the stopping performance aspect of the front and rear suspension rests in the Classic Performance Products (CPP) Big Brake kit. It utilizes a 13-inch cross-drilled, gas slotted, and zinc-washed rotor that’s mounted to its own hub and is mated up to a C15 caliper that utilizes a pair of 52mm pistons. Bringing all of this to bear is the CPP HydraStop hydraulic assist system providing plenty of comfortable pedal pressure yet more than enough power to stop quickly. Holding this ultimate-performing chassis off of the ground are a set of Schott Split-Window Cover-Loc wheels measuring 18x7 in front and 20x8.5 in the rear, while you will find Falken Azenis FK510 rubber 225/45ZR18 and 255/40ZR20 fore and aft.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

Inside the otherwise stock-appearing interior, the first thing you may notice is the rear seat delete package from WHR, while the front bench is from Ciadella stitched in a period-correct pattern, Cobblestone, and colors. Wrapped around the interior is OE green-tinted glass from Auto City. The dash, another stock-appearing item, complete with its radio delete panel, is painted in an accent gray and encases a set of Dakota Digital RTX gauges wired into use via an American Autowire Highway 22 Plus kit by the staff at WHR. Although there’s a radio delete panel there is a stereo; good vibrations always go hand in hand with a hot rod, so a Custom Autosound Secretaudio system is neatly tucked under the front bench seat along with a subwoofer. Two tweeters are hidden in the base of the rear utility shelf. The steering column comes from ididit while the wheel itself is an American Retro 15-inch (cut down from the original 18inch) 1957 Chevy 150 wheel. That’s one heck of a car for any rodder to win at the 6th Annual Danchuk Tri-Five Nationals, hosted by the American Tri-Five Association. (Editor’s note: Should you attend the Danchuk Tri-Five Nats, be on the lookout for any number of awards that Modern Rodding, Classic Truck Performance, and All Chevy Performance will be handing out. Yep, we are going to be there and join in the fun ourselves.) MR MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

CORE STRENGTH Installing a New Radiator Core Support in Your 1966-1971 Ford Torino, Fairlane, or Ranchero

1. Craig Hopkins is measuring the front panel, no matter what the shape, before removing it. In our case the hood and fenders lined up well, telling us the front end is in good shape with regards to factory gaps.

BY BRIAN BRENNAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON CHANDLER

hink back a few months (May ’21 issue) to our 1969 Ford Torino Cobra Jet 428 4V Q-code project. We’re back! The last time we replaced the passenger side quarter-panel. Yep, our Torino was in dire straights and needed lots of attention. Knowing this, we rounded up a fresh radiator core support (PN 350-8469) from Auto Metal Direct (AMD) and visited Craig Hopkins at The Installation Center where he quickly showed us how to replace a tired, worn, and/or rusted radiator core support.

having done this type of job hundreds of times over the years. Throw in a full complement of tools and a proper workspace and a task such as this is well within his capabilities. The best part while he was doing the work, he could take the time to tell us the best way to approach such a project all the while “hammering and banging” on sheetmetal without missing a beat (no pun intended). Anytime you are working on sheetmetal on a vintage piece of tin you want to make sure what you see is really what was intended by the original designers and the factory assembly team. How do you do that? Well, in our story here, make sure the fenders and hood are in good shape and that they line up (gaps) to your satisfaction. If they do you are good to go; if not, you will want to give some consideration as to where the problem is and make the necessary correction.

While it truly fits our Torino Cobra Jet, this radiator core support will also work on 1966-1969 Torinos, Fairlanes, and Rancheros. There is a second core support for the same vehicles for 1970-1971. While you are at it, you might want to also consider replacing both upper and lower radiator support mount brackets (upper, PN 351-8467-3 replaces factory PN C7OZ-8A193-A; and lower PN 351- As for tools you will want to make sure that you have a proper air chisel, welder, spot welder, hammer and 8467-2 replaces factory PN C7OZ-8052-A). dollies, 3/16-inch grinding disc to remove spot welds, A little more on fit. The reproduction radiator core vise grips, weld-through primer, and a full collection of support will work on all engine sizes except the six- C-clamps, both “deep and shallow throw.” To answer this cylinder model. According to AMD, “It’s stamped from question, we visited our local Harbor Freight store (which a high-quality OE 20-gauge steel on new tooling and for me is online) and rounded up a handful of examples each radiator core support features the correct original of the tools that will come in handy when doing a job of shapes, size, bends, tabs, and holes as the original.” It this nature or any number of other sheetmetal projects. comes bathed in an EPD coating to protect it against corrosion. (EPD is “electrophoretic deposition” or more Unless you have copious amounts of time and a great deal commonly called “electro coating.” It’s an immersion of experience don’t expect this to be a weekend project. It wet paint process that uses electrical current to help the can be but odds are this is going to take you three or four weekends to accomplish the task. Patience and safety paint product bond to the metal surface.) will always yield the best results. Follow along with the Of course for Hopkins, performing any magnitude of photos and watch how Hopkins performs a step-by-step sheetmetal work is just “another day at the office,” operation for changing out the radiator core support. MR MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

2. Hopkins unleashed his air chisel and began the removal process for the radiator core support. 3. Hopkins begins by cutting from the inside along the inner fender. (AMD offers these panels new, but since these panels are in good shape they were worth saving.) Be careful not to remove more metal than necessary; continue this process on the front side as well. 4. Available from Harbor Freight is the Chief Professional Medium Barrel Air Hammer (PN 56990) and the Professional 6-Piece Air Hammer Chisel Set (PN 56541). A handy tool that’s affordable and will be useful on many projects.

5. Most of the panel was removed and then the process was continued without damaging the components that will remain.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

6-7. Keep your hammer and dolly handy to maintain the shape of the panels as we go. Here Hopkins is making minor adjustments as needed.

8. The Maddox (PN 63259) Body and Fender 7-Piece Set is another handy hand tool that will last years (probably decades) in a hot rodder’s toolbox.

9. Note, next step is to remove the spots welds.

10.

11.

10-11. Hopkins used a 3/16-inch grinding disc to remove the spot welds. Be careful not to go through both panels; we are keeping the inner fenders and need them intact. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

12.

13.

12-13. A grinder is a “must-have” in any rodder’s toolbox. The Bauer (PN 64856) 4-1/2-inch Corded Angle Grinder along with the Bauer (PN 57758) 4-1/2-inch 120-Grit Flap replaceable discs are more great selections.

14.

15. This area is now ready for sanding to prep the area for a nice flush fit on the new core support. This is an Arizona rust-free car, and the inner fenders are worth saving. AMD offers the replacements if your car isn’t as lucky.

15.

16.

16. The lower cross rail is the last connection point and receives the same attention. With everything out of the way, we work on prepping the surfaces for installation.

14. The chisel was used to separate the two panels. This will give you some flexibility, so do not go too far when grinding and end up ruining the back panel.

17.

18. 18. The Torino is now ready for mocking up the new radiator core support.

17. A sanding disc is used to thoroughly clean the surfaces. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

19.

20.

20-21. Scribe an outline on the new panel where you will be welding. This will give you an easy reference for cleaning up the welding surfaces.

21.

19. To get proper alignment, clamp the new panel in place. Refer to the measurements you took at the beginning to make sure you are where you need to be. 23. The Auto Metal Direct 1966 radiator core support is a reproduction for the big-block– equipped cars and crosses over to the Mercury Comet and Cyclone. The 1967 reproduction will work with all V-8 engine models and equally equipped Cyclones and Comets. Each radiator support is EPD coated to help protect against rust and corrosion. The 1969 core support will work on all models except six-cylinder versions.

22.

23.

22. Since we will be spot welding, we will clean the entire outline and any mating areas. If you are going to be plug welding the new core support on, the outline gives you a reference where you will be drilling and then prep at each hole.

24.

24-25. AMD’s reproduction radiator brackets match perfectly, with the one shown for the 1966 big-block Fairlane, Comet, and Cyclone. Also available for the 1966 smallblock and 1967-1969 Fairlane, Torino, and Ranchero V-8s.

26.

25.

27.

26-27. Hopkins used a weld-through primer on these areas to help prevent rust and corrosion where the two panels meet. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

Dries the best

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

28.

30-31. Harbor Freight offers a wide range of C-clamps, such as the Pittsburgh 8-inch Deep Throat U-Clamp (PN 45917) and 6-inch C-Clamp (PN 37850). These have countless uses throughout a project, whether it be in the garage or around the garage!

29.

30.

31.

32. The spot-welding process begins and is repeated to ensure a factory fit. Notice the metal is bare; you should apply one or more “E-Coat in a Can” to finish the panel once it is completely installed.

28-29. At The Installation Center, lots of clamps are a must. The key to a good weld is a tight-fitting panel—and these are critical to achieve that fit.

33.

32. 33-34. Hopkins uses his commercial spot welder, making the installation a breeze. If you are plug welding, as you might be doing with your Harbor Freight 120V Chicago Electric Spot Welder (PN 61205), it takes a little more time but you can achieve similar results that the pros do.

34.

35. 35. When it comes time to break out the welder, this handy Harbor Freight Titanium 200 Unlimited Multiprocess welder should do the trick.

SOURCES AUTO METAL DIRECT (877) 575-3586 autometaldirect.com HARBOR FREIGHT (800) 444-3353 harborfreight.com THE INSTALLATION CENTER (706) 348-6653 amdinstallation.com

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE ith an amazing fusion of wood and steel, the Ford Motor Company designed and developed a station wagon (woodie) that could not only accommodate your family but also send you down the road in grand style. It’s easily seen from every angle when looking at the 1933 Ford wagon owned by Vaughn and Kelly Veit of Buffalo, Minnesota, laid out across our pages. Incorporating the flowing elegance of the newly designed front sheetmetal with that of a woodie body, the designers created a low production vehicle that would become even rarer to see in existence well over 80 years later—making this wagon even more unique.

It’s easy to see that the 1933 Ford wagon, or woodie as we like to call them today, was geared toward a more affluent client, where the car would find itself quite at home on a rolling estate for runs with the family through the countryside. Ford production in 1933 totaled 334,969 units, with only 1,654 woodies being built, retailing for $640. As a comparison, their Standard Tudor sedans were the most produced model with 106,387 rolling off the production line to illustrate how few wagons were built. With cars starting at $475 for the standard roadster, the cost of a wagon made it the most expensive vehicle in the lineup. When looking at the average household income of $1,550 and home price of $5,750 with gas at 10 cents per gallon, it all becomes clear how much the difference in price would have affected the average buyers.

Vaughn and Kelly Veit’s 1933 Ford Station Wagon Redefines Cool

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

BY CHUCK VRANAS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

Root Beer ’n’ Maple MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE For Vaughn, growing up in nearby Minneapolis during the ’50s, he was fully immersed in the fast-growing hot rod culture. By hanging out with the older crowd, he was able to experience firsthand the most-wicked hop-ups on the scene as they ran the ’strip as well as hanging out at the Sun Drive-In and Porky’s Drive-In to check them out in great detail. Once earning his license, he immediately got involved, starting with a 1950 Chevy mild custom, eventually working his way to hot rods, including numerous 1933 Fords and a number of muscle cars. Along the way his passion for 1933 Fords grew exponentially to a point where he set a goal of eventually collecting one of each model offered through the production years, which is no small feat. When it came time to starting the search for a 1933 station wagon, Vaughn carefully studied the availabilities online and weighed out his options. Since he wanted to build a hot rod, he could either start with an existing restored car or try and locate a suitable donor for the project. His search led him to fellow Ford collector Gordy Bruss in Wisconsin who just so happened to have one for sale. The car was an original V-8 model and mostly complete, although it had seen far better days. After reviewing it, the car would be a perfect base to start with seeing that it was a prime candidate for a full rebuild. A deal was made and the keys changed hands with the car moving onto its new owner. Wanting to infuse the perfect balance of mid-’60s hot rod into the new build, he contacted Dave Simard of East Coast Customs (ECC) in Leominster, Massachusetts. Having worked with Simard on prior projects it was easy to get together and share ideas on what it would take to bring the station wagon back with a perfect stance, period-correct driveline, and meticulous attention to detail. The car was shipped to ECC for initial evaluation. Simard and team member Ryan MacDonald wasted no time in tearing the wagon down while also cataloging all of the parts. It was obvious that the past decades had not been kind, however many of the crucial parts to take on the build were still intact. The original frame was sent off for blasting and was a perfect candidate for being updated. To create a rock-solid base, it was boxed, treated to custom crossmembers, and C-notched front and rear to dial in the lower stance. Out back a Ford 9-inch rear was packed with Currie 31-spline axles spinning 3.70 gears. It’s suspended in place by custom-fabricated ladder bars with matching Panhard bar, 1940 Ford transverse spring, and SO-CAL Speed Shop tube shocks. For that perfect nose-in-the-dirt stance, a SO-CAL 4-inch dropped forged axle was deftly matched to modified 1940 Ford spindles linked to SO-CAL hairpin radius rods while a Posies Super Slide transverse spring and SO-CAL tube shocks soak up the bumps. When it’s time to drop anchor, a GM dual master pushes fluid through polished stainless lines to 11-inch Ford drums out back and 11-inch discs and calipers up front from Magnum Suspension. To add elegance, a set of 15x6 front and 17x8 rear Wheel Vintiques 71-Series Street Rod Wires with 1933 Ford caps were treated to Kelly Edge A/S rubber. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE When building an era-correct hot rod, the devil is always in the details. For just the right mill between the ’rails, Simard had an ace up his sleeve. Years ago, he had attended an auction at an old engine shop in Upstate New York where he was able to purchase a number of factory-fresh, new old stock, 283ci GM crate engines. This was a perfect opportunity to bring one to life with a few speed shop bits to deliver even more punch. The fresh block was packed with the stock rotating assembly while Simard added a more potent bump from a Comp Cams stick. Factory iron heads generate plenty of pep while up top an Edelbrock three-deuce intake breathes deep through a trio of Stromberg 97-series carbs wearing classic frog-mouth air scoops. The attention to detail is breathtaking and includes custom fuel lines, vintage Corvette valve covers, and plenty of brightwork from Jon Wright’s Custom Chrome Plating. A PerTronix FlameThrower stock-look distributor lights the fire while spent gases flow through a set of Speedway Motors Ram Horns to a custom 2-inch stainless exhaust burbling through Stainless Specialties mufflers. To move the goods, a GM 700-R4 warmed over by Jeff Lynch links to a custom steel driveshaft from Mitchell Drivetrain Services.

MODERN RODDING

As you can imagine, breathing life into vintage steel that’s over 80 years old takes true craftsmen. Adding a dilapidated wood body structure (compromised of close to 200 pieces) to the mix raises that bar even higher. It’s a time where measurements, fitment, and hardware working in unison are elevated to the next level. To get started Simard and MacDonald metal finished all of the factory sheetmetal to perfection, which included the flowing fenders, hood, and grille. From there they started the rebuild of the body using a structure kit from Bruss as a base. With that, there were literally endless hours involved in fitting the new maple to recreate the body, including the rebuild and fitment of all doors, hardware (much of which was hand fabricated), and critical setting of the gaps. There was also the fabrication of new side curtains utilizing the original Ford blueprints by Nick Lupien of Running with Scissors Upholstery and restoration/refitment of the factory sliding window tracks for when the curtains are not in use. Finally, a new rooftop was installed by Lupien complete with fresh side rain gutters and trim. From there, team member Kevin Olson got busy starting with the application of 10 coats of varnish to the new wood, which was polished between coats to get the final luster. When it came to the steel body panels, Vaughn

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

selected a subtle coating of custom-blended PPG Root Beer to add the final allure straight from Olson’s spray gun. We would be remiss if we didn’t add the final icing that came from Custom Chrome by treating everything else to the chrome tank. Seeing that Vaughn owns Maple Hill Farm, he had “One Arm Bandit” Charlie Decker complete the exterior with his masterful gold leaf lettering. It was important to bring an equal amount of class inside to match the exterior. The factory dash was refreshed and filled with a set of original dials restored by Instrument Specialties while a cool starter button tagged “Fire” was also integrated to the dash face. A 1939 Ford banjo wheel was cut down to 15 inches by Bob Monetti of Bob’s Steering Wheels and treated to a brown translucent coating by Bob Deneault of D&D Automobilia. Shifts move through a Lokar swan-style unit and a vintage heater keeps the cabin warm. Making it all come together is a custom cloth-covered wiring harness by Skip Readio. When it came time for comfort, Lupien got busy working with the original seat frames. He re-angled them for comfort and covered them with an intricate brown leather basket weave pattern. He then complemented this with a matching firewall and side panels accented by squareweave carpeting. This is one truly memorable wagon that not only pays tribute to its rarity with a true mid-’60s hot rod vibe, it also looks wicked driving down the road, and to us that’s as cool as it gets! MR MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

If you are wondering who is in charge with this project take a closer look at the left front tire … Boss Cat!

EAST COAST GRAFFITI How to Buy a Used Hot Rod & Then Begin to Bring it Back to Life MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

BY JOHN GILBERT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

his story started out as a simple tech about installing Dynamat into a hot rod and then a more thorough examination of the car changed everything. This 1931 Model A Ford is the best example of the worst job building a hot rod that I’ve ever seen. The first time I saw the East Coast–style coupe it was too late to advise my son-in-law how to buy a used hot rod. Ramon had already bought the car and spent big bucks for questionable repairs before pulling it out of a dodgy shop.

My first opportunity to see the Model A in person was while our family gathered for Thanksgiving and it was a flashback to the ’80s. It was typical ’80s looking. Inside the coupe’s interior it was obvious the car had been built by an inept DIY guy using junkyard parts who owned a cutting torch but not a body grinder. I asked Ramon how he intended to use the coupe and he said he wanted to cruise it to the local weekend car shows like the doughnut shop, but no long road trips. The next question was which shop would finish it up? Ramon said he was happy with the customizing work 714 Motorsports in Westminster, California, did on his new Ford Super Duty, so he’d probably take it there.

1. It was going to be a simple task of installing Dynamat for sound insulation and to keep the elements out plus DynaPad to reduce engine noise and block heat from the firewall. Something about “… best laid plans …”

2. I got the 1965 Olds 425-inch Starfire engine to start and the oil pressure was good right until the aged feed line for the mechanical oil pressure gauge burst. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

I was familiar with 714 Motorsports, knowing Chip Foose had upholstery work done there on his cars. I was intrigued by the Model A, so I told Ramon if he’d like I’d trailer the A to my house and determine how much work it would take for 714 Motorsports to make the car right. The deeper I dug into the Model A the more problems I found. Big problems like after discovering the body had been welded onto an unsafe frame that it might be better to replace it with a new chassis than to invest the parts and labor needed to correct it.

There’s a difference to how a shop should undertake working on a customer’s car and what the DIY guy can get away with if he does it himself. For a shop there’s liability issues because they have to make absolutely sure the vehicle is safe to return to its owner or be responsible if it isn’t. And then as is the case for this Model A, the number of hours invested in shop labor making repairs it would make more sense to install new parts and cut way down on labor charges. 3. Having another hot rod to borrow parts from might be a blessing or a curse. I didn’t like the look of the wide blackwalls, so I robbed the whitewalls from my 1932 roadster.

4. High back bucket seats in a hot rod are too reminiscent of the ’80s for me. That and the seats were bolted into place without adjustable seat tracks meant they had to go. 5. Jack up the frontend and check the suspension and steering lock-to-lock to detect worn-out parts causing slop. Shake and spin the wheels to check the condition of the wheel bearings.

6. Improper placement of the steering column, shifter, brake and gas pedals not only makes the car uncomfortable to drive for any length of time, it makes it a dangerous car to drive. 7. The Model A needs as much work to make road ready as the 1932 roadster. I’ve been borrowing new parts intended for the 1932 to test-fit and determine what the Model A needs.

8. It’s hard to imagine a high-end sound system installer laying new carpet without installing Dynamat first. At this point I peeled back the fresh carpet and padding and discovered no Dynamat.

9. This floor is not worth reusing but if I was forced to reuse it applying Dynamat on top would seal up all the gaps where the elements and carbon monoxide fumes could leak inside. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com 10. Here my assistant helps to flatten out the carpet to be used as a template to cut out new carpeting. Then later I determined this carpet would be a bad pattern to follow and tossed it.

10.

11.

11. Check for unsafe conditions; here a 250-amp line runs adjacent the fuel cell and the undersized-for-this-application air compressor for Air Lift shocks instead of installing proper springs.

12.

I advised Ramon the best route for his Model A was to cut the body off the frame and set it onto a new rolling chassis with better suspension and brakes. And I didn’t have to tell him it would cost a lot of money to have a shop do the work. A few days later Ramon texted me saying he was going to sell the Model A because it was too big of a project. That’s all it took. I forgot everything I knew about buying a used hot rod and wanted to buy Ramon’s Model A. Ramon and I struck a deal and the 1931 Model A remained in my garage. I explained to my wife I could have the Model A on the road much sooner than my 1932 roadster. She liked sitting in the Model A’s Porsche high back bucket seats and listening to the massive Kenwood/Kicker sound system the dodgy guys installed. But the next time my wife came into the garage I had pitched the Porsche bucket seats to the driveway and the interior was gutted down to the bare framerails. She kind of freaked out; it was almost an unpleasant moment.

15.

16.

12. Look to see where the gas tank has been located. Typical for this poorly designed build the A’s gas tank (fuel cell) has been placed in the worst spot possible … think Ford Pinto. 13. The concentration for now is placed on correcting the position of the steering column, pedals, and seat location. Then a new removable rear floor section will be made.

13.

14.

14. Even the worst tilt steering column like this bulky GM product can help to make the car more comfortable to drive. A Flaming River roadster tilt steering column is on its way.

18.

17. 15. Installing the steering column at the wrong angle like this destroys valuable legroom. Look under the dash. If the wiring looks like this, plan on rewiring the entire car.

17. The stereo installer was a good pattern maker but choosing to use MDF (medium density fiberboard) was a dumb mistake for a hot rod because MDF dissolves when exposed to water.

16. Replacing broken glass or repairing rust damage gets expensive. I got really lucky on this Model A that the doors and the door glass are good—and an added bonus, it rolls up.

18. The difference in height between the doorsill and the floor reveals how many inches the body has been channeled (body dropped in modern terms). The wiring harness runs outside framerail. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

CHEVS 40’s OF THE

3688050

3705033B

World’s Most Complete Supplier of 1937–54 Chevrolet Car Parts

595073

986410

3705035

Hood Emblem

Hood Ornament

3688050 . .49 . . . . .$98.75 . . .Hood emblem 3687425 . .50 . . . . .$136.75 . .Chromed and painted 3702726 . .53 . . . . .$30 . . . . . .Plastic 3705033 . .54 . . . . .$41.75 . . .Plastic 3705033B .54 . . . . .$91.25 . . .Plastic w/ chrome bezel

595073 . . .37 . . . . .$160 . . . . .Original accessory 603476 . . .39 . . . . .$220.75 . .Original accessory 986410 . . .50 . . . . .$161.75 . .Chrome bird, original accessory 3705035 . .53-54 . .$99.50 . . .Original 54. Chrome. Superior quality!

3702729

3705031B

Trunk Emblem And Script

595744 . . .37 . . . . .$89 . . . . . .Sedan 597496 . . .38 . . . . .$89 . . . . . .Sedan 597496 4129243B .41-48 . .$32.75 . . .Fleetline 3702729 . .53 . . . . .$36 . . . . . .Plastic 3705031 . .54 . . . . .$40 . . . . . .Plastic 3705031B .54 . . . . .$88.50 . . .Plastic w/ chrome bezel 3707970 . .54 . . . . .$15.50 . . .Chevrolet. 13-1/4" x 1" 3707971 . .54 . . . . .$23 . . . . . .Powerglide FREE CATALOG WITH YOUR ORDER! SIGN UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER AND FOLLOW US ON

609582 986524A

603476A

Plastic for Accessory Hood Ornament 603476A . .39 . . . . .$36.25 . . .2-1/4" high, original (used) 609582 . . .46 . . . . .$29.50 . . .Blue, original 3847124 . .47-48 . .CALL . . . . .Clear, original 3847124C .47-48 . .$35 . . . . . .Red 986524A . .49 . . . . .$93 . . . . . .Red, original

Hood Side Name Plate 3682043-2 . 47-48 . . $375 . .Fleetmaster (pair)

CALL US TODAY! 800-952-8156 WWW.CHEVSOFTHE40S.COM NEED TO RETURN PARTS PURCHASED ELSEWHERE? CALL US!

ALL PRICES, PRODUCT IMAGES AND AVAILABILITY ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. PLEASE CALL FOR CURRENT AVAILABILITY AND PRICES

CORE SUPPORTS NOW AVAILABLE

AutoMetalDirect.com

1.888.255.3907

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

Falling in love with the 1931 Ford Model A blinded me and I failed to recognize everything about the car was done wrong except for a few minor details. I knew the steering column, brake and gas pedals were placed wrong, but it was a surprise to discover it had unevenly cut rotted plywood held in with plumber’s tape for floorboards. Ramon paid for new carpeting, which he got, but the upholstery guy didn’t think twice about covering gaping holes in the floorboards.

19. This view of the passenger inside of the cowl reveals the guy who channeled this car was a hack. This area will be blocked off to prevent water from entering.

19.

Because it is very expensive to correct rust damage one of the most important tips to buying any used hot rod is to peel back the carpeting and see what the floors look like. The difference between a car that has been constructed properly and one that hasn’t is the amount of labor it will require when the time comes to make repairs and install new parts.

20.

22.

20. Place the seat inside the car with the adjustable seat tracks centered and mount the seat where it fits you best for a driving position. Slide the seat backward and you have room to nap. 21. Not my first choice for seats, but after I dye these bucket seats black they’ll look better. When I fabricate this section of the new floor it will have Nutserts easing the removal and installation of the seats. (A Nutsert is a branded name for a rivet nut, which is a metal fastener with internal threads.)

21.

23.

22. A modified GM brake pedal was mounted to the clutch master cylinder hole in the firewall. I replaced it with a Speedway Motors universal brake pedal kit and used the hole intended for the brake master. 23. I figured a 1932 floor was close to a 1931 floor so I tried my Wescott Deuce floor and it was a close fit. Next step was to order Speedway Motors’ fiberglass 1932 floor.

24.

24. Only a few modifications were necessary to fit Speedway Motors’ fiberglass 1932 Ford floor to the firewall of my 1931 Model A. A Harbor Freight electric body saw made short work cutting the 1/4-20 studs.

25.

25. The two metal pieces seen on the floor had to be cut before Speedway Motors’ 1932-style steel dashboard for a Model A could be mounted to the existing holes for a stock Model A dashboard. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

PRINTED MAGAZINE AND DIGITAL FORMAT MAGAZINES AVAILABLE

DIGITAL ISSUES VIEW YOUR ISSUE ON A COMPUTER, LAPTOP, OR PHONE

SUBSCRIBE TODAY! CHECK THE BOX(ES) TO SELECT YOUR TITLE(S)

FOR FASTER SERVICE ORDER ONLINE AT INTHEGARAGEMEDIA.COM CALL (833) 985-9171 FOR MORE INFORMATION

USING YOUR SMARTPHONE, SCAN THE QR CODE FOR EASY ACCESS SUBSCRIPTIONS

Name _______________________________________________________ Phone____________________________ Address ________________________________________________________________________ Apt. # _______ City __________________________________________________________State ________ Zip ________________ Email _____________________________ ___________________________________________________________________ EMAIL REQUIRED FOR DIGITAL FORMAT

MAIL THIS FORM WITH PAYMENT TO: IN THE GARAGE MEDIA, PO BOX 6550, FULLERTON, CA 92834

MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO IN THE GARAGE MEDIA ALLOW 6 TO 8 WEEKS FOR DELIVERY OF FIRST ISSUE. SUBSCRIPTION WILL START WITH NEXT AVAILABLE ISSUE. DIGITAL ISSUES ARE EMAILED. IMAGES OF MAGAZINES IN THIS AD ARE BACK ISSUES.

MODERN RODDING TECH

26.

InTheGarageMedia.com 27. The seat floor made of marine-grade plywood will be cut to fit under the lip at the rear of the Speedway Motors fiberglass floor holding the front of the seat floor in place.

28.

27.

28. I mocked the dashboard up trying to see if there was a better spot to locate the Lokar polished billet aluminum six-gauge dash cluster. It was worth a try but center mounted works best.

26. Because I know this car will always need work, I’m installing the Speedway Motors floor so it can be easily be removed. It will bolt and unbolt from the firewall face and wood sill runners.

29.

30. I used existing holes in the firewall to mock up the Lokar brake and gas pedals. After the exact location is known for the steering column, new mounting holes will be drilled in a more exact location.

31.

30.

29. Speedway Motors was the source for the 12-inch Covico-style steering wheel headed for a Flaming River tilt column. John Milner’s coupe in American Graffiti had a 14-1/2-inch Covico wheel.

32.

31. In the next installment of East Coast Graffiti we’ll learn how to connect the steering column at the correct angle to the steering box using U-joints and support bearings plus punching holes for new gauges.

33.

32. The suspension found on a homebuilt hot rod can be a real surprise. An unknown artist created this screwed-up trailing arm setup complete without a Panhard bar and used air shocks for springs. 33. Beyond mounting with bad welds, the major flaws to this homemade trailing arm setup are the flimsy light gauge steel arms without bushings and the bolt threads able to cut as the suspension travels. 34. Channeling and welding the body to the frame using short lengths of box tubing for body mounts is not a recommended method. Notice rust holes and surface rust to be addressed in upcoming tech.

34.

That’s what I have been up against, not being able to bolt new parts directly back into place without first having to determine which are the right new parts and where to drill the new mounting holes. The plus side to buying the worst Model A hot rod ever built is job security. I’m a freelance tech editor, so Modern Rodding readers can look forward to more installments covering this grassroots approach. And the moniker “East Coast Graffiti” came to me because of the Model A’s East Coast style channeled with a stock height top and the same yellow color as John Milner’s coupe in American Graffiti. MR

SOURCES DYNAMAT (513) 860-5059 dynamat.com SPEEDWAY MOTORS (888) 503-4220 speedwaymotors.com

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

Customer Service Still #1

POWER STEERING

CONVERSION KITS & BOXES CPP’s high quality, compact 400 Series™ & 500 Series™ quick ratio power steering boxes utilize late model steering technology, OE-Style inverted ﬂare hoses, and are ready to bolt to your frame. Complete conversion kits directly replace the original manual box and keep perfect alignment with the OE or aftermarket column for a true bolt-on power steering solution!

14:1

S POR R ATIOT !

1955-59 CHEVY KIT SHOWN

1967-72 C10 KIT SHOWN

NEW UNITSU!ILT

N OT R E B COMPLETE CONVERSION KITS $ K starting at 539/kit

QUIC ! R ATIO

POWER STEERING BOXES starting at

379/ea

TRUE BOLT-0N

COMPLETE CONVERSION KITS $ starting at 649/kit POWER STEERING BOXES $ /ea starting at

379

1947-59 CHEVY POWERG 1960-66 CHEVY N I R E E 1967-87 CHEVY ST NS! TRUCK APPLICATIONS TRUCK APPLICATIONS SOLUTIO Classic Performance Products, Inc. 866-882-6882 1955-59 CHEVY 1953-60 FORD 1961-69 DODGE D100

378 E. Orangethorpe Ave. Placentia, CA 92870

CLASSICPERFORM.COM

#Classicperform

Prices subject to change without notice. Please note that kit contents, images, and prices may vary between certain applications.

Quiet Zone Series Option + Audio Recording Available

9" Rears Custom Made to Your Speciﬁcations 100’s of Applications Available Bare Housings & Axles to Complete Assemblies GM, Ford, Mopar & Beyond All New–Not Refurbished

Also: Driveshafts, Third Members, & Brakes Proudly Made in the

USA

1.800.332.3450 Tech Line 1.906.265.9999 www.johnsindustries.com

MODERN RODDING FEATURE

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

Rob and Marilyn Morrison’s Traditional 1932 Ford Coupe

BY CHUCK VRANAS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

here’s nothing better than being able to trace back the roots of a traditional hot rod to the day when it was first built. What was the inspiration for the project and how did it come about? Maybe it was a teenager looking to impress everyone at school, or was it possibly the thrill of building the car while hanging out with buddies in your driveway? Maybe it’s a 1932 Ford five-window coupe complete with channeled body and a vintage Flathead? Many times, if you’re lucky enough, you can find a basket case thanks to a private lead and then discover its lineage. Dig a bit deeper and just maybe you’ll get your hands on a few photos depicting its original glory and quite possibly the missing bits to bring it back to its original brilliance.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE Sometimes though, an old hot rod becomes your birthright. For Rob Morrison of Dunnville, Ontario, Canada, growing up in the family garage while his dad, Paul, was wrenching on cars, he and brother Gord had a front row seat in the confines of a tattered, old Deuce coupe. This wasn’t just any old shell however, it was the remains of one that a member of his family built way back in 1955. It’s quite a timeline of how he and his wife, Marilyn, brought the custom channeled 1932 Ford fivewindow coupe displayed across these pages back to its original glory. Hot rodding is all about the journey, and this car has a great story.

in building the neat red hop-up was even documented in his local newspaper, The Fort Erie News, in an article titled “True Hot Rodder Strives for Safety, Beauty, and Speed.” In the article, Maurice explained to the reporter that these were the three most important elements in his build to create something unique that would outperform others while paying homage to Henry Ford’s “ideal car for hot rodders.”

Back in 1955 in Fort Erie, Canada, Maurice Fostrey (Paul’s cousin) swapped $100 for the keys to a bone-stock 1932 Ford five-window coupe he had been longing for. With ideas already percolating in his head, the 17-year-old also purchased a 1940 Ford convertible as a donor for its driveline, brakes, and suspension. In the months that followed, the young teen infused everything that he had studied in the little books, adding his own fingerprint to make his car stand out from the rest. The experience

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

with many other unappealing updates. The base of the car was still unchanged, including the updated Ford suspension and driveline. Seeing it was more or less complete, Ken made a deal and brought the car home. Moving forward, he cruised the car in its current state for a while until a decision was made to tear it down in Paul’s garage to get it ready to be restored. Well, family obligations came along and the coupe sat in stasis, eventually becoming an inspiration for a young Rob as he was growing into his teens.

To dial in the right combination on the build, stance was of the utmost importance, so Maurice channeled the coupe 7 inches, molded the rear fenders to the body, fabricated a rear roll pan and other details before adding the final gloss. By the time 1957 arrived, he was off to college and the coupe found a new owner who completed the interior and any remaining details. The new owner entered the car in the area’s very first indoor event hosted by Bob Larivee Sr. Taking place at The Forum in Hamilton, Ontario, in 1959, the coupe achieved Second Place in the Altered Street Coupe Class. Having always had a fascination with the car, Paul had tracked its owners over the years, eventually losing sight of it in the early ’70s. It was by chance years later that he and his brother, Ken, acted on a lead that brought them to a barn in a town north of Dundas. Peering into the structure they were once again face-to-face with the coupe. As time passed it was common for many hot rods to change with the times—although not always in the right direction. The old Ford didn’t particularly age well as it entered the ’70s and beyond and was now wearing metallic green paint MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING FEATURE

InTheGarageMedia.com

As fate would have it, Rob wound up making a deal with his uncle by swapping a recently completed 1949 Ford Tudor for the Deuce project in 1992. Starting with the original frame, it was stripped and boxed from the firewall forward by Bob Cranston. Out back a 1940 Ford rear packs 4.11 gears and is suspended in place by a matching wishbone combined with a parallel leaf spring and tube shocks. Up front a 1940 Ford axle meets matching spindles combined with a stock transverse leaf spring and chrome tube shocks. Maurice believed that safety was a primary concern when building a hot rod and incorporated a 1940 Ford master pushing fluid through steel lines to matching drum brakes at each corner. Linking it to the street are a set of 15x5 Ford steelies capped with Firestone/Coker bigs ’n’ littles wide whites with caps. Since nothing sounds better than a hopped-up Flathead V-8, the coupe has its original 1942 Ford V-8 back between the ’rails. The engine was massaged to 245 ci and packed with all the right goods, including a Merc crank and rods topped with matching pistons getting bumped by a stock cam. A set of Canadian high-compression aluminum heads make plenty of power, especially when matched to an Edmunds two-pot intake wearing Ford 94-series carbs and vintage chrome air cleaners. A stock ignition lights the fire with spent gases pushing through the original homespun chrome headers linked to a 2-inch stainless exhaust with glasspacks. The goods move through a refreshed 1939 Ford trans via torque tube.

MODERN RODDING

Thankfully the gennie Ford steel body, originally manufactured in Canada, withstood the test of time without being devastated by rust or alterations. It was stripped clean, revealing all of the updates initially completed by Maurice, including a 7-inch channel, molding of the rear fenders to the body, fabricating a custom rear roll pan, custom nerf bar, and adding 1950 Pontiac taillights. The vintage steel was massaged to perfection by Terry Hayes of Greensville who also laid down the classic coating of Sherwin-Williams 1954 Buick Titian Red, bringing everything back to life. Inside it’s a perfect combination of style, starting with a stock dash fitted with a 1951 Packard gauge cluster combined with early Stewart-Warner gauges to monitor the vitals. A 1940 Ford steering wheel and column moves through a matching steering box while a custom shifter pulls gears. The original interior by Irish Brothers Auto Trim of Hamilton, Ontario, installed in 1958 still looks great and incorporates early ’50s-era Morris Minor buckets covered in a classic red and white tuck ’n’ roll with complementing side panels and black loop carpet. Wiring by Peter Foulds of Hamilton completes the build. Rob and Marilyn have done an amazing job restoring this family heirloom hot rod and we know they’ll keep Maurice’s vision alive for decades to come as it hits the streets once again. MR

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

We found a solution for transitioning from the body panel to the interior header from Clayton Machine Works (a Lokar Company). The aluminum trim proved to be the perfect solution.

TRANSITIONS B BY GERRY BURGER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

uilding a hot rod is simply, or not-so simply, a series of challenges. While it definitely pays to plan ahead, sometimes you do things with the thought of “we’ll worry about that when ….” This is the tale of just such a postponement. Early on in our 1936 Ford phaeton build we decided the original top just had to go; we would be running topless in our tub (Author’s note: That didn’t come out just right.—BB ... “It never seems to!”—GB) with plans of either a tonneau cover for the back seats or possibly a Carson-style top.

So, the top was removed and sold, leaving an unsightly seam where the original steel body panel was unceremoniously nailed to a wood header. Ah yes, they just don’t build ’em like they used to. At one time the top was also nailed to this header. While creating a reasonable transition from steel to wood was obviously a problem, we put the project off and now the time had come to address a solution. MODERN RODDING

Clayton Machine Works Provides a Trim Solution 1.

1. Before we could fit the aluminum trim, we spent some time with a flat chisel to flatten the sheetmetal where it meets the wood header.

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

3. A quick hit with a small 80-grit grinding wheel cleaned all the old paint off the sheetmetal. We put down a temporary light coat of spray can primer as temporary protection and to make the new trim installation easier to see.

2. After the sheetmetal was flattened with the chisel, we spent some time setting all the small nails that hold the metal to the wood frame. We also pulled out a lot of old upholstery staples.

6. The leading edge of the trim must be shaped and contoured to fit the profile of the body. A simple poster board temple will be our initial guide.

7. The template was taped to the end of the Clayton Machine Works trim and a Sharpie transfers the shape to the aluminum. The corner was then cut off with a hacksaw.

5. Here you can see the contour; we opted to put the thin edge of the molding up. Once installed, the trim looks like it could have come from the factory.

4. This is the trim from Clayton Machine Works that will provide a clean transition from sheetmetal to wood on our 1936 Ford phaeton.

8. With our “soft jaws” in the vise we held the piece in place and did the finish shaping with a file, followed by sandpaper.

9. With the leading edge in its preliminary shape, we clamped the piece to the body to begin the forming process. Final shaping of the leading edge was performed after contouring the trim to the body.

10.

10. Careful marking, filing, sanding, and clamping again is required to fit the leading edge. File or sand a little, test-fit, then sand a bit more. This aluminum is very soft so you must take care not to remove too much material.

11.

11. The leading point of the trim is now perfectly formed and we can begin shaping the trim to the body with clamps. The Sharpie arrow marks where the trim had to be pushed down. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

12.

InTheGarageMedia.com

13. A pair of adjustable wrenches were used to ever-so-slightly rotate the trim. We should have put masking tape on the trim before doing this as the wrenches left marks on the trim that had to be sanded out later.

14.

13.

12. The back of a 1936 Ford phaeton is quite curvaceous. As the trim rounds the corner it becomes a compound curve where the trim must be very gently rotated so it stays flush with the body.

15.

14. As you can see, we have accomplished the basic shape of the body and the trim is providing a very pleasing transition. There are still some adjustments to be made. 16. Some final adjustments were made with a C-clamp and block of wood to gently push the molding down as it rounds the corner of the body. Once again, slow and easy is the way to form aluminum.

17.

16.

15. A closer look shows how nicely the trim fits up to the body panel. In some applications the trim can be held onto the body with 3M double-sided high-strength adhesive that is available when ordering the trim.

17. We had a couple of spots that needed to be tapped down to conform to the body. Gently tapping brought the trim down; we made this simple tool for the job. Be careful not to tap too hard in one spot or you will create a dreaded low spot in the trim.

We considered a type of upholstery trim or even aftermarket vinyl door protector but decided while that would be easy it would also look like an inexpensive aftermarket door trim. And so we continued our search, which led us to the Lokar website to check out their Clayton Machine Works offerings. The offerings are varied and all very cool, from door handles to shifter handles or pedals, they all have a great sense of style. But we were looking for trim; sure enough, there it was, Aluminum Exterior Trim. A mill-finished 6063T0 aluminum trim that could be mounted with 3M double-sided high-strength adhesive, it can be drilled and tapped for “blind fastener” installation or it can be drilled and screwed in place. The simple look of the trim was perfect for our hot rod, just two pleasant curves give the trim shape and even more important it would provide the perfect transition from body panel to the wood header. We contemplated using 3M adhesive to mount the trim but due to the uneven mounting surface we decided to screw the trim in place. We also felt some countersunk stainless screws would look more period correct on our vintage-style hot rod. If we were using this same material for side trim on a car we would definitely use the adhesive. A quick call to Lokar and we placed the order for two pieces 4 feet long (also available in 6- and 8-foot lengths). Several days later a heavy cardboard tube was delivered to our door. MODERN RODDING

18.

19.

18. After the trim was formed to the body it was time to drill the holes for the stainless steel sheetmetal screws that will hold the trim in place. We made a simple template from 22-gauge sheetmetal to ensure the holes were perfectly spaced. 19. The sheetmetal template conforms to the radius of the trim, allowing us to keep the trim holes perfectly spaced.

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

Fitting the trim to the back of our 1936 Ford phaeton proved to be quite simple, but due to the curves involved it was important to work slowly and carefully. The 6063-T0 aluminum is butter-soft and will form to contours easily, but like any metal you must be careful not to bend it too far as metal will stretch and shrink as you ask it to conform to curves, particularly compound curves. Returning bent metal to straight often results in an irregular shape, so work carefully, adding to the curvature slowly. The first order of business was deciding whether to put the concave side of the trim up or down. It quickly became obvious for our application the concave side would go up. Next came shaping the leading edge, as the trim would have to be tapered to a point on the leading edge of the trim. A simple template helped us shape the trim, then careful filing and sanding netted the final shape.

20.

20. We drilled and countersunk each hole and then installed the screw before moving onto the next hole. This ensured the trim would remain flat between screws. 21. After drilling all the holes and screwing the molding to the body it was time to polish the trim. A quick trip to Harbor Freight netted a couple of buffing pads for our drill along with two different buffing rouges.

21.

With the leading edge shaped we used a series of clamps to hold the front edge of the trim in place, then we carefully formed the trim to follow the line of the body, adding more clamps as we shaped the trim. As we rounded the corner of the body, we needed the trim to climb upward and also go around a bend. This compound curve took some time and patience but the aluminum willingly formed to the contours. A C-clamp and a block of wood helped to gently push the trim down to seat properly on the body. We also made a small T-dolly out of round stock and used that to gently tap the trim down in places. We cannot emphasize the word “gently” enough; tapping too hard can result in a low spot in the trim that can be difficult to remove and few things look worse on a car than wavy trim.

22.

23.

22. Finishing aluminum to a high gloss is much like buffing paint. We began by sanding the deeper scratches with 400- and then 600-grit paper. Then we sanded the entire piece with Scotch-Brite followed by 2,000- and 2500-grit sandpaper. 23. We used a simple handheld drill and the cotton buffs for the final finish. One buff for the polishing rouge and the final buff using Mother’s Mag and Aluminum polish. MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

24.

25.

24. This is a good look at the before and after buffing and polishing process. This aluminum trim is such high quality it is just begging to be buffed to a chrome-like finish.

With the driver side piece of trim formed and clamped in place it was time to do the final fastening to the body. A wise man once told me, “Only measure things as a last resort.” He was referring to spacing holes, as he preferred templates to a tape measure. A quick template was made from 22-gauge mild steel, with two holes drilled 6 inches apart. We used the template to mark the holes; the sheetmetal was flexible enough to give us exact spacing as we marked holes around the bends. Working carefully from the front we drilled and countersunk a hole and attached the trim with a screw. Then we moved to the next mark and repeated the procedure until the entire piece of trim was attached to the body. The passenger side was a repeat of the driver side and then both pieces were cut so the single seam would be exactly in the center of the rear panel.

27.

25. And here is the finished trim polished and held in place with stainless steel screws. The back of the 1936 Ford phaeton has a certain roller coaster shape that provides a great-looking panel and also provides challenges for the trim-forming process.

26.

26. This closer view shows how nicely the trim meets the body for a clean transition. The wood header will be covered with vinyl leatherette that will go down behind the trim, completing the transition. 27. We ordered two pieces of trim, 4 feet long to do our trim work. We ended up cutting about 6 inches off each piece to provide this final center seam. You may notice we managed to nick one piece with a file but luckily that will be covered with a center trim piece.

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021

MR AD INDEX ADVERTISER ...................................................PAGE # American Autowire .......................................................... 41 American Legend Wheels ............................................... 61 Art Morrison Enterprises ................................................ 35 Auto Metal Direct .............................................................73 Automotive Racing Products ......................................... 19 Bowler Performance Transmissions ............................ 83 Chevs of the 40’s ..............................................................73 Classic Instruments ............................................................9 Classic Performance Products ............................. 4-5, 77 CleanTools ........................................................................ 59 Dakota Digital ................................................................... 91 Danchuk USA.....................................................................23 Duralast ..............................................................................27 Dynamat ........................................................................... 25 Eaton Detroit Spring ....................................................... 83 Fat Man Fabrication ........................................................77 FiTech EFI ........................................................................... 61 Flaming River Industries ........................................ 83, 92 Gandrud Chevrolet ..........................................................89 Golden Star Classic Auto Parts ........................................ 6 Granatelli Motor Sports ................................................. 59 Heinzman Street Rod Shop...........................................89 John’s Industries ...............................................................77 Kugel Komponents ......................................................... 89 Lokar ............................................................................. 2, 29 National Street Rod Association ................................. 45 New Port Engineering......................................................77 Optima Batteries .............................................................. 13 Performance Online .........................................................57 Phoenix Machine Products ............................................ 89 Powermaster Performance .............................................71 Schwartz Performance................................................... 83 Scott’s Hotrods ..................................................................71 Speedway Motors............................................................ 43 Summit Racing Equipment .............................................. 7 Vintage Air .......................................................................... 11 Wilwood Engineering ..................................................... 39

MODERN RODDING TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

With the Clayton Machine Works trim formed and mounted to the body our next big decision was how shall we finish the trim? We could put a very nice brushed finish on the trim with a piece of Scotch-Brite, but decided that did not fit the theme of the car. We could also sand, prime, and paint the molding body color, and as nicely as the piece fit it would blend perfectly and make the trim appear to be a part of the body stamping. In the end we opted for option three and polished the aluminum trim to a chrome-like finish. In this polished finish it will provide a nice separation between body and the wood header that will be part of the interior. The header will be covered with leather grain vinyl and the screwed-on aluminum trim will work perfectly to hold that fabric in place.

28.

The final piece of the puzzle was covering the single joint in the aluminum trim. I contemplated making a small aluminum cover that would snap over the joint for a factory look. Sometimes it pays to take the easy route. I had a roll of chrome tape on the shelf and since the aluminum trim polished to a chrome-like finish I simply cut a small piece of the tape to go over the trim seam. It worked out nicely and goes virtually unnoticed. Of course, the trim will have to be removed and stored until the bodywork and paint are complete but we feel like we have solved our transition problem in high style. MR

29.

28. We considered forming a center seam trim piece from sheet aluminum, but then we remembered we had a roll of chrome tape on the shelf that we sourced from a local auto parts store. 29. The high-quality trim buffed to a chrome-like finish matching our chrome tape perfectly. Yeah, this may seem like cheating but sometimes easy is good. 30. Since we would be removing the actual trim, we didn’t want to apply the chrome tape to the polished pieces. We did put a piece of the tape on the two scrap pieces left over to illustrate how it will look.

30.

SOURCES CLAYTON MACHINE WORKS (877) 469-7440 claytonmachine.com HARBOR FREIGHT harborfreight.com LOKAR PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS (877) 469-7440 lokar.com

MODERN RODDING

VOLUME 2 • ISSUE 11 • 2021