Cruising the Rivers oF Burgundy and ProvencE
2014 SRH
An 8-day cruise from Chalon-sur-Sa么ne to Avignon aboard the Viking Neptune with Virginia Bolen, Agnes Hamos, Emel Singer, and Sel Yackley. October 2-9, 2013
Cruising the Rivers oF Burgundy and ProvencE
Cruising the Rivers oF Burgundy and ProvencE
Cruising the Rivers oF Burgundy and ProvencE
Cruising the Rivers of
Burgundy and Provence October 2013 France in autumn! From Burgundy to Provence! Sailing the pastoral Sa么ne and Rh么ne Rivers, far from highways and traffic! Visiting Lyon and Marseille as well as smaller towns, all of which existed during the Roman Empire, the Middle Ages, and the Renaissance, and are still enchanting today.
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Chalon-sur-Saône Embarkation point for the cruise. The boat was anchored on the Saône River right in center of the city. Since ancient days, Chalon has been the highest navigable point of the Saône, which is the largest tributary of the Rhône.
Milk dispenser glimpsed on a street in Chalon: a kiosk vending raw milk. In the US, raw milk is strictly regulated, if available at all, and the “food police” would have fits! 2
Beaune Capital of the Burgundy wine country The Hopsice de Beaune was founded in 1443 by the Chancellor of the Duke of Burgundy and his wife to alleviate poverty and illness in their town after the Hundred Years’ War. They and other patrons assured its future by donating vineyards and salt mines, the income from which continues to the present day. The Hospice owns 62 hectares of prime vineyards, and every November there is a wine auction conducted by Christie’s to raise funds for the hospital. The hospital operation itself has been moved to a modern building, so the remarkable Hotel-Dieu is now a museum, showing the former wards, kitchens, and pharmacy. There is also the 1443 FlemishBurgundian polyptych, The Last Judgment, by Roger van der Weyden; Medieval tapestries; and altars, which were in every ward. The multicolored tiled roof is typical of Medieval Burgundy. 3
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We tasted an assortment of the wonderful regional wines in the caves of the Cellier de la Cabiote, served with delectable gougères!
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Lyon The Romans arrived in Lyon in 42 BC, taking over the Celtic settlement between the Rhône and the Saône. Many important Roman ruins and artifacts continue to be found. On the right bank of the Saône is Vieux Lyon, the UNESCO heritage site of the Medieval and Renaissance old town. Lyon%suffered%greatly%in% the%French%Revolution%and%World%War%II%(when%it%was%a%center%of%the%French% Résistance).%%Today,%its%economy%is%second%only%to%that%of%Paris,%with%chemical,% manufacturing,%and%publishing%Cirms.%For%centuries,%it%has%been%the%traditional% home%of%the%French%textile%(especially%silk)%industry.%Since%1989,%Interpol%has%been% headquartered%here.%Its%proximity%to%the%vineyards%of%Burgundy%and%Beaujolais% contributes%to%its%reputation%as%perhaps%the%most%celebrated%gastronomic% destination%in%Europe.%The%ConCluence,%a%former%industrial%area%just%south%of%the% city%center%where%the%%Saône%enters%the%%Rhône,%is%being%rePdeveloped%with%ofCices,% housing,%shops,%and%restaurants.%
The Palais de Justice (Basilique de Fouvrière up the hill). Bridge over the Saône, restaurant in Vieux Lyon where we had dinner.
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The traboules, secret covered passageways through buildings, honeycomb Vieux Lyon. People hid there and fled through them during the Revolution and WWII (the Germans didn’t know their way around them.) They were originally built for the silk weavers to meet and to safely carry their products to market. They now have electric lights – but imagine finding your way by lantern light! Or torches?
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Basilique Notre Dame de Fouvrière
Basilique Notre Dame de Fouvrière, built in 1896 on a hilltop overlooking Lyon. Its interior decoration features many mosaics.
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View of Lyon across the Saône from Fouvrière Hill with Cathédrale de St. Jean (12th-15th century) in the foreground.
Lyon is famous for its buildings painted in the trompe l’oeil style. This large yellow one depicts famous people of Lyon. The chef in the ground floor shop is Paul Bocuse whose original restaurant in Lyon is known worldwide. Above are the Lumière brothers who invented cinema photography. Above them is Antoine de St. Exupéry in aviator costume, with Le Petit Prince (The Lyon airport is named Aeroport St. Exupéry.) 11
Les Halles de Lyon, named for Paul Bocuse. A fascinating emporium of upscale food and drink of all kinds. Restaurateurs, including some of Lyon’s many Michelin-starred restaurants, shop here too. Some vendors have tables so you can dine right there. Oysters and Chablis, anyone?
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Vienne One of the oldest towns in France. Founded by the Romans in the age of Pontius Pilate, it became Rome’s major wine port on the Rhône. Roman remains and artifacts abound. The beautiful Roman Temple of Augustus and Livia in the center of town became a “Temple of Reason” during the Revolution, and has been a courthouse or library at various other times (those alterations have been removed.) The amphitheater on the hillside, discovered and excavated in 1927, seated 13,000 and is still used today. In the Middle Ages Vienne was an ecclesiastical center; the FlamboyantGothic Cathedral of St. Maurice was built in the 12th to the 15th centuries.
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Vienne
The ruins of Chateau de la Batie, 13th Century, on Mount Solomon overlooking Vienne.
Tournon and Tain l’Hermitage Gateway to the Ardèche Sister cities across the river from each other, they are joined by the first suspension bridge built across the Rhône. Tournon is much older, with a feudal castle built into the rock and a church where the side chapels were converted into dwellings for the poor by the anticlerical Revolutionary government. Some are still occupied (they hang out their laundry!) Outside Tain l’Hermitage are the hills of many vineyards, where the owners’ names are written on the walls. 19
We visited Domaine du Murinais, in the CrozesHermitage appellation. The picking of the grapes was to commence the next day – they were plump and delicious!
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Viviers A Roman settlement that became a bishop’s seat in the 4th century. The 12th century Cathedral of St. Vincent is in the Old Town where we did a night-time walking tour.
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Arles An important seaport in Roman times, but river sediment took over and today the Camargue and salt marshes occupy the 20 miles where once there was sea. The Roman Emperor Constantine named Arles the second capitol of his empire in 306 AD. Legions were headquartered here. The giant arena held 22,000, and is still in use today for cultural events and for bullfights. The portal of St. Trophime Cathedral at the Place de la RĂŠpublique is 11th century, adapted from a triumphal arch. 22
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Pont du Gard This monumental Roman structure dating from about 19 BC was part of a winding 31-mile-long aqueduct bringing mountain water from Uzès to the city of Nimes. Most of the workings were underground, but this portion was built to cross the Gardon River. The huge stones were put together without mortar on three levels, each with differentsized arches. Its total length is about 900 feet; it is 160 feet high and carried 44 million (imperial) gallons of water per day to the homes, baths, fountains, and gymnasia of Nimes. The museum nearby has many interesting exhibits on the construction of the aqueduct, its route, and on Roman life, especially activities involving water.
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Avignon We were anchored just north of the great Pont d’Avignon. The famous walled city of Avignon, seat of the French Popes during the 14th century, features the largest Gothic palace in existence, the Palace of the Popes; a cathedral; and a charming city center, the Place de l’Horloge. The clock tower and the 19th Century Hôtel de Ville are particularly interesting.
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road trip to Marseille The drive featured postcard sights of Provence: the Abbaye de SĂŠnanque and its lavender fields, the hill village of Gordes, other villages and vistas, and a stop in Aix-enProvence to stroll along the famous Cours Mirabeau, have lunch, and take a tour of the city center.
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Gordes 34
Provence Sights
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Pediment on the 1761 Corn Exchange building, representing allegorically the bounty of the RhĂ´ne and the Durance Rivers, so important to the region
Aix-enProvence
Custom-designed balcony at former home of a famous 19th century “libertine� 37
Marseille Arguably the second largest city in France, and certainly the oldest, having been founded by the Greeks as a port in the 6th century BC. It is still one of the most important ports of Europe. The commercial port operations were moved away from the center in the late 1800’s. The former port, Vieux Port, today is filled with fishing boats and small pleasure boats, and is a lively central scene. The fishermen sell their catch in the mornings. The Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde overlooks the town from a hilltop above the Vieux Port. Major development is in progress in the downtown area.
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Chateau d’If was built by Francis I to defend Marseille, and was the locale for the fictional Count of Monte Cristo and The Man in the Iron Mask.
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Basilique notre-dame de la Garde
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The Fish Market 41
Vieux Port
On Board the Viking Neptune 43
We went though several locks along the way, guided by our able captain.
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Peaceful Cruising
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Shipboard Fun Celebrating Agnes’s birthday; Below left and right: Ginny, Donna Kotulak, Emel; Agnes, Sel, Ron Kotulak. Captain’s Table refreshments, Sel dancing on deck, and a “cook’s tour” for Emel. Friends at dinner: clockwise from bottom: Carol Bacon, Karen Combs, J.C. Combs, Sel, William Schantz, Emel, Agnes, Ron Kotulak, Ginny, Donna Kotulak.
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Emel’s Flowers of France
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An 8-day cruise from Chalon-sur-Sa么ne to Avignon aboard the Viking Neptune with Virginia Bolen, Agnes Hamos, Emel Singer, and Sel Yackley. October 2-9, 2013 50