Wanderlust

Good times shore thing

Discover cultural mix making Hobart such a buoyant hub

PAGES 16 AND 17

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‘‘ This very Australian getaway has all the creature comforts you need to unwind.

There’s plenty to admire on the Zodiac Trail. Get away to the Tweed Valley FEEL THE SERENITY: Tweed Valley has much to offer. Pictures: Shirley Sinclair

Shirley Sinclair

IT IS so quiet. Quiet as only the Australian bush can be. The unmistakable laugh of far-off kookaburras breaks the prolonged silence.

Then a whipbird. Quickly, tranquillity returns, leaving only the slight rustling of leaves around us.

From our comfy chairs on the undercover veranda, the break in the eucalypts reveals a herd of dairy cows on their morning graze and a smattering of farmhouses amid grand sprawling trees below, climbing past cleared grasslands and forests to the prized vista: the summit of Wollumbin Mount Warning. This is what we’ve been waiting for. Our arrival the previous afternoon in this rainforest canopy had been met with cloud cover and a smoky haze from distant bushfires over the border in Queensland.

But the morning breeze has cleared the air and uncovered the reason behind the name of our villa: Mountain View.

But we’re certainly not roughing it in the bush. We’re sampling the hospitality of Mistere Spa and Retreat, Urliup, in

The undercover veranda at the aptly named Mountain View villa. Soak up the lushness from the Waterfall View villa’s spa bath.

northern NSW – three spacious, luxury selfcontained villas that offer the privacy and downtime we’ve been craving.

This very Australian getaway (pronounced, aptly, like “mist” and air”) has all the creature comforts you need to unwind – from the soft sophistication of the modern four-poster bed, electric fireplace and airconditioning to the bespoke timber coffee table and warm embrace of the spa bath.

This is how to get away from it all … without being away from it all.

The “secret” retreat in the stunning Tweed Valley is hidden amid 52ha of idyllic,

The beautifully appointed Mountain View villa.

pristine rainforest. Yet Murwillumbah is only 10 minutes (8km) away, down and around our mountain road, then a few bends further on to the west.

Cabarita Beach – where we came from yesterday – lies only half an hour east. A flatscreen TV, Wi-Fi and great mobile phone coverage are waiting for you – if you can’t do without them.

So are boutique shopping and restaurants in Murwillumbah (and I highly recommend Bacaro Restaurant Bar for authentic Italian). And you could spend hours playing board games and chess or reading a host of books and tourism information.

It’s so much nicer putting down the remote control, leaving the phone in the handbag and tuning in to the wildlife, which can range from “growling” male koalas looking for mates to mountain brushtail possums to shy wallabies, cheeky goannas and water dragons, plus birdlife including owls on lamp posts, exotic parrots and tiny kingfishers. The Urliup villas – Mountain View, Fountain View and Waterfall View – previously were known as Wychwood but were totally cosmetically renovated to officially open on Remembrance Day (November 11) in 2017.

While Fountain View and Waterfall View sit by the perch-filled dam, Mountain View has a beautiful outlook to Wollumbin Mt Warning. After breakfast, we decide to take a stroll on the Zodiac Trail to find our Year of the Water Tiger. It’s one of two pleasant walks that are filled with sculptures and oddities, flowering plants and massive trees. We take our time reconnecting with nature – and each other. And in less than 24 hours, I’m ready to face the real world again. AT A GLANCE: What: Regal Retreats’ Mistere Spa and Retreat. Where: 1110 Urliup Rd, Urliup, NSW.

The villas can be occupied by one couple for the ultimate in privacy or by groups and families. Breakfast baskets and barbecue packs are available to buy before check-in. Regal Retreats prides itself on unique Australian accommodation.

Info: Visit www.mistere spaandretreat.com or call 0411 052 759 to book.

SENIORS \\MARCH, 2020 ESCAPE Irish luxury through the roof

IF it’s luxury you’re after, there are plenty of topnotch hotels across Northern Ireland. If it’s something amazing, unusual or even eccentric, here are seven self-catering options that will fit the bill. 1. Twilight Bunkhouse, Carnlough, County Antrim Cosy indie coffee shop downstairs, comfy getaway upstairs, with views over Carnlough Harbour – or the Braavos Canal for Game of Thrones fans (the harbour was a film location for the HBO blockbuster). The two six-person dorms and two four-person private rooms come complete with kitchen, guest lounge and access to a courtyard. 2. Finn Lough Bubble Domes, County Fermanagh

A cosy little bubble to call home deep in the forest of a lakeland resort. These polished, airy and 360- degree glass-dome suites, with complimentary Wi-Fi, flatscreens and tea- and coffee-making facilities, mean you can stargaze the night sky on comfy seats or recline on the four-poster bed. 3. Aurora, Bushmills,

CLEAR FAVOURITE: The Finn Lough Bubble Domes lie deep in the forest of a lakeland resort.

Picture: Contributed

County Antrim

Hewn from Canadian cedar, this pair of deluxe log cabins comes complete with supersized beds, wood burners, outdoor hot tubs and private verandas. Just 1.6km from the worldfamous Giant’s Causeway, there are myriad attractions to explore nearby. 4. Quarry Hill Church, Strangford County Down A unique opportunity to stay in a stunning converted Presbyterian church built in

Train of thought is taking off

1846. The spectacular fivebedroom property is at the entrance to the picturesque village of Strangford, overlooking Castleward Bay. 5. Blackrock Beach House, Portrush, County Antrim

This superlative holiday home overlooks a Blue Flag beach in the seaside resort of Portrush. The best local bars and fine-dining restaurants are no further than a pleasant stroll along the promenade. This is the perfect base for exploring the Causeway Coastal Route.

6. Waterfall Caves, Limavady, County Londonderry

A perfect getaway for a weekend in the outdoors, this quirky subterranean setup lies at the foot of Binevenagh Mountain. The luxury caves sleep up to four. 7. Further Space, Glenarm Castle, County Antrim

A distinctive comfort zone in the grounds of a 17th-century castle, these stylish glamping pods are set on a spectacular hilltop site with breathtaking views. Info: ireland.com.

BRAND INSIGHTS

WHEN Simon Mitchell came home one day and casually mentioned to his partner of 10 years that he bought a train, he got the rise of the eyebrows that he expected from Danielle Smith.

After all, she knew her partner had been a keen railway modeller for years. When he mentioned that the scale of the train was actually 12” to the foot, he finally got the reaction he was looking for!

It turns out Mitchell, a retired accountant, had bought seven ex-Southern Aurora sleeping carriages from the liquidators of the Australian Railway Historical Society (ACT).

The carriages travelled by rail to Lithgow Railway Workshops, where four twinette carriages were painstakingly restored to operating condition. They currently form part of the Southern Aurora fleet at the NSW Rail Transport Museum, Thirlmere, and have gone on a number of rail tours over the past nine months. For at least two of these carriages, it was their first passenger-carrying service since 1994.

Mitchell and Smith have also restored a further twinette carriage at the now-reopened Canberra Rail Museum, and two Roomette carriages at Goulburn Locomotive Roundhouse.

As a team they have gone on to buy 14 carriages, to be returned to operation.

The carriages have been kept in as original condition as possible. Mitchell said: “We’re amazed that the original vinyl wallpaper has survived since 1962. We’ve really grown to appreciate the mid-century vintage appeal of these carriages.’’ The pair’s passion comes through when they talk about the rail heritage community. “We have had tremendous support from the community, who really want to see the return of this icon of Australian rail travel,” Mitchell said.

Trading as Vintage Rail Journeys, Mitchell and Smith recently released two exciting rail tours allowing you to travel for five days and four nights, sleeping and dining on the train and covering 1500km around rural and regional NSW. “We really wanted our guests to see everything possible, so we only travel during daylight hours,’’ Mitchell said. “We stable the train at night at rail stations, and it is quite a challenge finding somewhere to park up a 400m-long, shiny stainless-steel train.

“Our guests tell us they want to get out of the city and into the bush, so we have developed a northern loop (Golden West Rail Tour) and a southern loop (Riverina Rail Tour).’’

Both tours start at the iconic Sydney Central railway station. The Golden West Rail Tour goes north to the Hawkesbury River, the Hunter Valley, Orange and the Blue Mountains and then back to Sydney. The Riverina Rail Tour goes south, along the Illawarra line, up the escarpment to Moss Vale and on to Goulburn. Time is spent in Griffith, Temora (featuring Warbirds Downunder 2020) and the Blue Mountains before returning to Sydney.

Mitchell and Smith have sourced caterers from the areas the train will travel through. They have engaged a wine consultant who will travel on the train and assist guests with tastings.

The response from the travelling public has MOVING EXPERIENCE: Simon Mitchell aboard one of the trains in his Vintage Rail business. Picture: Contributed

reflected the desire to visit the bush, with the first Golden West Rail Tour, on April 1-5, being sold out. Tickets for the Golden West Rail Tour on September 9-13 and Riverina Rail Tour on October 14-18 are on sale now. www. vintage railjourneys .com.au.

16 ESCAPE Warming to hip Hobart’s culture club

THERE’S more to Tasmania than apples, wine and seafood. The island state to the south of the Australian mainland is full of cultural surprises, whether it be art, music or architecture.

And as well as the worldfamous Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race, there is another link to an even greater journey … a link to man’s landing on the moon.

It’s something I quickly discovered after an earlymorning mystery flight from Brisbane in late November. Just pack a jumper, walking shoes and an iPhone, I was told. No need for a passport. That narrowed the destination down to Victoria, South Australia or Tasmania. Arriving at Gate 38, departures were either Melbourne or Hobart. Hobart it was.

In a little more than two hours we were off the east coast of this southernmost part of Australia and starting the approach to Hobart International Airport.

Even though it’s virtually the start of summer there is a chill in the air on leaving the terminal. And I’m glad there is a woollen beanie to pull on. After all, next landfall is Antarctica.

Everything feels fresh. Friendly. After the novel greeting of life-size replicas of the native wildlife at the luggage collection area in the airport terminal, the drive into Hobart is mostly through bushland or rolling farming country.

The approach to the Derwent River Bridge opens up the beautiful view of the city on both sides of the glacial-formed river and deep harbour. The backdrop is the majestic Mount Wellington, known as kunanyi by the first people, the Muwinina. Hobart is easy Art, music add to southern belle’s core appeal Erle Levey to love. And to get around in. It’s such a walkable city for the most part.

You only need a car for day trips to such locations as the wineries of the Coal Valley, historic Port Arthur Convict Settlement, the wooden boats centre in the Huon Valley or to the summit of Mount Wellington.

There is the magnificent Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) to explore, the coastline of Bruny Island and so many walks.

You don’t expect it to snow on the first night in summer. You don’t expect to stumble upon an art exhibition opening on your way to dinner.

You don’t expect to experience the strings section of a symphony orchestra playing to a packed house at a brewery. There’s a lot to Hobart you don’t expect … and that’s part of its charm.

Hobart is easy to love … even when the weather turns cold and grey.

To see the Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra at Hobart Brewing’s Red Shed at Mac Point was something to warm the soul. It was simply an 800m walk from the Old Woolstore Apartment Hotel, near Victoria Dock. Despite the soft rain and chill wind the atmosphere was warm at the brewery. Flannelette shirts and Blundstone boots were the order of the night as the sold-out crowd readily warmed to the unusual blending of an exceptional orchestra in such an industrial setting.

Pot-belly stoves inside, open fires in the courtyard and the talk from the bar area added to the sense of occasion.

The TSO is based right in the heart of Hobart. It is widely travelled throughout Australia and the most played on ABC Classic FM. Tonight the strings section will be playing everything from Elgar to Lady Gaga.

On Saturday night is another sold-out event with the orchestra’s brass section performing at St David’s Anglican Cathedral, about another 800m up the hill in Murray Street.

The TSO reaches a broad cross-section of listeners with free outdoor concerts in Hobart and Launceston, and performs in regional Tasmania, schools and community centres as well as these events that started three years ago to reach out to new audiences.

As marketing director Sam Cairnduff says, they are looking at different ways to take music out there.

“We are going through our most successful period in 71 years. While subscriptions around the country are challenging, ours are going up year on year. “We are pretty much getting right around the state, and around Australia. “A specialty is Australian composers. We have recorded more than any other orchestra.

“We have championed a lot of composers. Our ECLECTIC MIX: The panoramic view of thriving Hobart from Mount Nelson. Pictures: Erle Levey

The Cascades Female Factory, a former Australian workhouse for female convicts.

Tasmania Symphony Orchestra Strings at the Red Shed, Hobart Brewing Company.

Australian conductors’ workshop is a pipeline for aspiring conductors to build skills.’’

Tasmania’s food and wine are celebrated for their quality, especially its seafood. And there are so many good places to eat in the city.

Walking back from the brewery, we stop at the Drunken Admiral, right on Victoria Dock.

I had wondered about it, being in such a convenient position. Would it be a tourist place? Friends had all talked about it, including those who had lived in Hobart. Yet fears of it being impersonal were quickly dismissed as soon as we walked through the door.

It was a step back in time … to the inside of an old sailing ship with bowsprits, figureheads, heavy timber tables, all sorts of nautical bits and pieces such as shackles, ropes and chains, old sails, and gimballed navigation lights. Everywhere you looked was like being in an antiques shop.

It was busy … and despite it being a cold night the welcoming was warm. We were happy to sit up at the bar and grab a drink while ordering.

The rum barrel behind the bar reminded you of what it must have been like in the time of sail.

Bruny Island oysters are arguably the best you will taste, then there’s the scallops, the seafood chowder, crusty bread … and a Tasmanian red. To finish we walked around the waterfront to the floating Van Diemens Land Creamery.

The city fronts the River Derwent, so it has not just a nautical past but it is still part of its seafaring culture. Constitution Dock, famous for the finish of the SydneyHobart Yacht Race, is also home to sailing ships from Tasmania’s past.

The sailing vessel May Queen, Australia’s oldest sail trading vessel, is one of only a handful of wooden vessels of her era still afloat in the world.

Westward is a fishing vessel that was converted to a racing yacht and claimed handicap victories in the Sydney-Hobart Yacht Races of both 1947 and 1948. Recently, the SydneyHobart pioneer Mistral II has joined the fleet, in preparation for a major restoration to take several years.

Being able to virtually walk everywhere in Hobart adds to the intimacy of the city. Such as enjoying the Salamanca Markets of a Saturday morning, on the western side of the

It’s well worth the walk up to Battery Point for the stunning surrounds and gorgeous views.

‘‘ There’s a lot to Hobart you don’t expect … and that’s part of its charm.

waterfront. And then to walk up to Battery Point and places such as Jackman and McRoss Bakery, or on to the Shipwright’s Arms Hotel for a counter meal, particularly of a Thursday for the jazz night.

Shippies, as it is known, was established in 1846 and remains a traditional oldschool pub complete with nautical mementos and pictures to celebrate its history. Yet Hobart also has a host of interesting places within easy reach, whether it be by car, tour or ferry. Mt Wellington, the dramatic backdrop to the city, is 1270 metres high, and climbed in 1798 by surgeon and explorer George Bass.

You can drive up, walk up or take a bike tour. Yet the weather can change quickly … from sunshine to cloud and scotch mist in minutes. But the view is enormous. Stop at the convict women’s factory in South Hobart to get a glimpse of the harsh conditions the prisoners found themselves in during the 1800s.

Catch the ferry out to MONA, a remarkable art gallery cut into the sandstone cliffs and privately funded by Tasmanian David Walsh. Allow time to discover what’s there as there is a remarkable backstory about how it came about.

Although it is not publicly funded it has earned such a name that virtually everyone who goes to Hobart probably experiences it … 400,000 visitors a year. Set in the grounds of Moorilla Winery, the oldest in Tasmania, and on the banks of the Derwent, MONA has made a giant difference to the Tasmanian economy. Art and wine … both need even temperatures and controlled The Jackman and McRoss Bakery is a Battery Point highlight – one of the rewards for visiting the area.

light to preserve them at their best. MONA was built in 2011 with the philosophy that arts and culture should always be accessible. A bit further out is Richmond in the Coal Valley, the perfect place to wander through the wineries, try the food and sketch the secondmost photographed bridge in Australia.

Standing among the rows of grapevines at Frogmore Creek Winery, the shape of the Mount Pleasant radio telescope provides a juxtaposition. Something from the future in such an old landscape.

Now run by the University of Tasmania, it had been part of the deep-space research program of the 1960s.

It had been the Orroral Valley radio telescope to the south of Canberra and was the first deep-space tracking station. That was before nearby Honeysuckle Creek and then Parkes, in the central west of New South Wales, became forever etched in history as the sites to relay the first televised pictures of the moon landing … the “one step for man, one giant step for mankind’’.

Between mountain and sea, Australia’s southernmost state capital is wrapped up in history, culture, adventure and the natural environment. Hobart is timeless. Such clean air, good food and interesting landscapes.

Even the story of Tasmania is somewhat of an adventure. The first reported sighting of Tasmania by a European was on November 24, 1642, by the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, who named the island Anthoonij van Diemenslandt, later shortened to Van Diemen’s Land. The square-rigged sailing ship Yukon at Franklin in the Huon Valley.

18 MARCH, 2020// SENIORS ESCAPE Perth’s worth easy to savour

ENJOY all-inclusive Perth touring at its best, featuring the Margaret River, Pinnacles Desert, Swan River lunch cruise, Fremantle, special lunches, a magnificent cruise and more. The Discover Australia tour spans six days in Perth, with flights, Western Australia luxury touring, the cruise, accommodation, breakfast daily, other meals and personalised transfers included.

Admire the remarkable moonscape of the Pinnacles Desert, the world-famous Margaret River region, the longest wooden jetty in the southern hemisphere, Busselton jetty and the bohemian port town of Fremantle and enjoy a special lunch cruise down the iconic Swan River. Discover Australia’s packages are wonderful for senior and solo travellers and those with some mobility limitations.

The package costs $1532 per person, twin share. Info: www.discover australia.com.au or phone 1800 519 678. TRY A TASTE OF MEXICO EXPERIENCE Mexico’s distinctive cuisine while travelling through Oaxaca, Puebla, Huatulco and Mexico City.

Meander through Oaxaca’s aromatic markets, take to the streets of Puebla to sample the city’s local specialties, indulge in fresh seafood on the beach and take to the streets of Mexico City on a taco crawl to experience a culinary heritage that goes back thousands of years.

If you’re after cultural richness, authentic experiences and flavoursome food that’s tinged with fiesta, this Real Food Adventure is for you. In Oaxaca you’ll enter the heart of pre-Hispanic cuisine – taste chillies, chocolate, mezcal and the surprisingly delicious chapulines (grasshoppers).

Take a guided “taco crawl’’ through Mexico City’s bustling markets.

A Pacific Ocean boating expedition followed by a CAPITAL IDEA: Perth is the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding region.

coastal cuisine master class on one of Mexico’s stunning beaches is the perfect way to wrap up your culinary adventure.

While Intrepid Travel tries to cater for specific dietary requirements, some meals and food activities are set in advance and may be difficult to adjust. If you have dietary requirements, contact your agent at the time of booking for information on how this may impact on your ability to take part in included activities and meals.

You will be covering a fair amount of ground on this trip, so be prepared for some driving. Mexico is a big country, however there’s only one very long bus trip (about nine hours) from Oaxaca to Huatulco.

The price for the nine-day trip is $2230 per adult, twin share.

Info: www.intrepidtravel. com.au or phone 1300 574 321. US ROAD TRIP: SEE BEST OF THE WEST SKYSCRAPERS, sequoias and impossibly big skies await you in the US West.

This 15-day tour through the urban and natural wonders of California, Arizona and Nevada is perfect for travellers who want to inject a little downtown energy into their out-of-town escapes. In the cities, you’ll traverse the concrete jungle by day with an expert CEO (chief experience officer)

Up-market shopping on Rodeo Drive is an LA highlight.

and overnight in hotels and hostels. You’ll marvel at the Grand Canyon and the giant sequoias of Yosemite before diving into a barbecue dinner and camping. Highlights are stargazing in Los Angeles, marvelling at a Grand Canyon sunset, opting to spend a night in dramatic Monument Valley, taking a chance in Las Vegas, camping under the stars and hiking in Yosemite. Included are accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Info: www.statravel.com. au/tours-on-sale.htm or phone 1300 735 277. GO FOR A WALK IN WALES THE Exploring Wales on Foot tour is a small-group walking tour designed for mature travellers.

On this 11-night tour, travel by coach across the length of Wales with the chance to walk up to 15km a day. The paths selected will take you through some of the most spectacular scenery in the country.

The tour takes you from Betwys-y-Coed in the north

Pictures: Contributed

Revel in the fresh Welsh air on a picturesque walking track.

Picture: Contributed

to St Davids in the south. Travel through rolling hills, rocky mountain passes and along the magical coastline. The tour, rated moderate to challenging, encompasses a range of natural and cultural wonders. Throughout the experience you will be listening to stories of local

The beautiful Margaret River area has so much to offer, with local wine a favourite.

history and culture from local guides, with the chance to explore some of the hidden gems of Wales.

You will walk to see the limestone and dolomite cliffs at Great Orme’s Head and visit the walled town of Conwy (where you can see “the Smallest House in Great Britain”). Along the way, you’ll see castles, including Castell Dolbadarn and Castell Coch. There is also the chance to enter Carreg Cennen castle, perched on a limestone outcrop.

The departure point is in Manchester and from there you travel to the small town of Penrhyn Bay on the northern coast of Wales.

Towards the end of the trip there is the opportunity to explore Cardiff with a guided day tour before finishing in London.

The price is from $US5310 ($8116) twin share and the tour runs from August 8–20. This trip is paired with Odyssey’s Walking Tour of Ireland and the Lake District, offered to the active mature walker. The number of participants in this tour will be 12 or fewer, with the addition of an Odyssey program leader.

Info: www.odyssey traveller.com/tours/walkingwales or phone 1300 888 225.