13 minute read
Avisitto the Taj Mahal
A journey to the Taj Mahal
Joe Keane and his wife Cora embarked on an adventure which for most of us would be the trip of a lifetime..
It was middle of May 2018. This was high summer. My wife Cora and I, had come to India via Abu Dhabi for the purpose of visiting one of the most iconic mausoleums in the modern world -the Taj Mahal. But first we would experience New Delhi, a city which in many senses shares a historical past similar to ours. But any resemblance to its colonial heritage, is not apparent in the very modern infra-structure of the airport, which is considered one of the most beautiful in the world.
Having studied the internet assiduously before we came, we were wary of the many negative comments to expect in India, when we arrived. To our relief many of those did not materialise. Modern toilets are fast replacing the traditional squat systems, so often associated with Indian culture. The airport has the general appearance of being hygienic and is on a par with any similar facility in the modern world. As we had an eVisa (as opposed to a traditional one), we were forewarned about the extended queues, and people prostrating in the sweltering heat. Air conditioning if it existed at all, we were advised, is
not very effective. Again, this advice was inaccurate and misleading. We experienced no undue delay, and the usual airport formalities were performed expeditiously and professionally.
Soon, we were excitedly looking forward to our first glimpse of the intriguing metropolis, a city that has excited the expectations of travelers for centuries. But it must wait a little longer! First, we had to choose one of the many options of travel from the airport to Connaught Place - the soul of the urban sprawl - and the location of our hotel. I am not certain if we made the most prudent decision, at least from the point of view of personal comfort. The light rail artery to the city is contemporary and effective. But negotiating the tortuous route to the ticket office is a different story. We took the elevator from the departure hall, and went down to the next level. To our dismay, we had to descend a further twenty steps carrying our luggage, before we got to the ticket booth. At this point two very disheveled wanderers were struggling to retain their composure.
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The India Gate war memorial located astride the Rajpath, on the eastern edge of the ‘ceremonial axis’ of New Delhi.
A city of ten million citizens does not necessarily demonstrate an orderly, and disciplined queue of people, when all are striving to attain the same purpose. We were greeted by a pulsating mass of human beings, of different faiths, colors and traditions. Above the babble of diverse tongues, one could barely think, not alone speak. Yet, somehow we managed to obtain our tickets. Soon we were on our way in comfortable, air conditioned splendour. This type of adventure is not everyone’s tea party, but for me it epitomizes everything that is magical and exhilarating about foreign travel. There is something immensely satisfying about achieving a challenging objective.
The station at Connaught Place, was yet some distance from our hotel the ‘Shangri La’. When you emerge from the train, you get the first experience of the heat. It hits you with the velocity of a sauna bath. This is when it is imperative to engage the services of the auto rickshaws. People either love them or hate them, but in New Delhi, they are a prerequisite. Over the next few days they would drive us (literally) to distraction, with the constant haggling and deliberate misunderstandings. You must watch out for such warnings as ‘Sir, that hotel has closed, let me take you to a first class establishment’, and the classic, ‘the street is blocked off due to demonstrations, I will find a better location’. Then you are taken on a ride through the chaotic streets, scarier than fifty roller coasters.
26 Senior Times January - February 2020 l www.seniortimes.ie They eventually get you to your desired destination - well almost. More about that later. The hotel was metaphorically an oasis in a concrete jungle. Within its confines, we felt cosseted and safe. The following day, we decided to explore the old city. It is difficult to associate the smells and cacophony of sounds, with the glory and splendour of the heady days of the Raj. Its history of Victorian Imperialism, when Britain’s jurisdiction spread across the Indies and adjoining countries, is well recorded. As our teacher long ago (secretly a Royalist) so often quoted ‘the sun never sets on the King’s dominions’. But the ghosts of old authoritarian power, still obtains in the alleyways and side streets of the ancient city, although you may have to search with some diligence to discover their existence.
Like all Asian sprawls, your western nose will soon be assailed by the smells that are a combination of sweat, oriental cuisine and aromas that have been baked and ingrained for centuries in the sun drenched streets. India’s smells are unique. You may be either repulsed or intoxicated by their overwhelming presence, but one thing is certain, you will remember them long after you return home. The colour and variety of the urban scenes, the juggling acrobats, the snake charmers and the persevering touts, will seduce even the most reserved traveler. No visit to Delhi is complete without visiting one of its many picturesque markets. The array and variety of merchandise is awesome, and despite our lack of enthusiasm, we were tempted to buy one or two souvenirs.
To complete our visit to the city, we were intent on visiting some of the various attractions, and historical sites that are scattered around the metropolis. This is when we had to engage the services of the aforementioned rickshaw drivers again. Despite our best efforts, they succeeded in taking us to places that were of little interest to us. The purpose of course was to have us pay custom to some of their friends. In this battle of wits, we sometimes frustrated their best efforts, but on other occasions they stole a march on us. Nevertheless, we saw many traditional landmarks that will remain etched in our memory. One of those, is the most revered Mahatma Gandhi’s tomb. This is where the great pacifist leader was buried, and it’s a must for anyone visiting Delhi. There is a striking feature of this general area that remains with us. It is the utter tranquility and the sense of serenity that prevails around Ghandi’s burial
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Joe Keane and wife Cora in front of the iconic temple
place. We visited many of the city’s important monuments such as India Gate, the memorial to the thousands of Indian and British troops killed in the First World War, the Parliament House and other landmarks.
But soon it was time to go to the Piece De Resistance - Taj Mahal. A train ride in India, has been always one of my pet desires. This wasn’t the typical stereotype, the hooting engine, followed by a long cavalcade of maniacal passengers perched precariously on the roof, and slinging from every available orifice. Those pre-war trains still exist in India, but they are becoming exceedingly rare, as modern technology is slowly catching up. Instead, we traveled on a state of the art locomotive covering the 226 km. In 150 minutes, but in a weird way I would have preferred to experience the traditional rail car. On our train, breakfast was served, but my morbid fear of Deli Belly, induced me to adopt a Lough Derg stance - a day long fast.
28 Senior Times January - February 2020 l www.seniortimes.ie After the hustle and bustle of Delhi, the relative peace was a relief. An added bonus was the panoramic views as we whizzed past. Much too fast to obtain decent pictures unfortunately. The scenery was unspoiled, even idyllic. Soon, we were in the city of Agra, where we met our guide and were whisked towards the monument at the usual breakneck speed. I had the brainwave of booking a hotel for the day, so that we could get some respite from the heat later. At 19 Euro it was a steal and a life saver. Because of the extreme heat, even the Indians don’t come in May. So the queues were mercifully short, an unexpected bonus. The Taj Mahal, built by a heart broken Emperor in the seventeenth century in memory of his wife who died in childbirth, is mind dazzling. This marble clad tomb has fascinated millions of travelers down through the centuries. It is one of the seven wonders of the world. Our guide clearly held a passionate regard for this pearl in the crown of Indian culture. His insistence in describing every minutiae of its structure was admirable, but from our point of view extremely challenging.
There seemed no respite from the plumes of heat that shimmered from the pristine surfaces. Our temporary refuge in the hotel was a God send for a few hours. Later we saw other interesting sights in the City of Agra. Soon we were heading back to Delhi and blissful sleep.
In a short time, our trip to this captivating part of the world, would sadly come to a close. You come away with mixed feelings. For sure, this is a country of many contradictions. From a tourist point of view, it offers mystique and wonder. You come to terms with, and enjoy the novelty of the errant monkeys, who pinch your package of sandwiches from the park bench. You forgive the rickshaw drivers their petty misbehavior.
Indian people are amongst the warmest in the world. Yet, you come away feeling sorry for sections of its population who lack welfare and education. One day no doubt, this technologically advanced country, will redress this imbalance, and then India can rightly take her place amongst the great nations of the world.
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