Breath-taking Bordeaux

Breathtaking Bordeaux

The Place de la Bourse reflected in Miror d’eau

John Low visits the city that has been described as ‘the very essence of elegance’

With the advent of affordable flights from Ireland, Bordeaux is another French jewel which, like, for example Nante, Aix, Lyon and Nice, is just the ticket for a short break or the base for surrounding excursions.

Even The Queen is a fan: ‘The very essence of elegance,’ she concluded after her last visit.

They say there’s a special atmosphere in Bordeaux and it’s easy to see why: After Paris it is probably France’s grandest -- some say grander -- riverside city with Unesco--recognised architecture and so much more space and light than the French capital to enjoy its attractions. Many of these line the majestic Garonne. As you would expect there’s restaurants, bars (don’t forget the Dog and Duck pub –happy hour from 5!) and cafes aplenty, with quirky historic lanes and districts boasting artisan foods, retro fashions, art galleries, markets, craft shops and smart boutiques. (Not to forgetting Sainte Catherine, the longest pedestrianised street in France where you will find all the main fashion names and designer labels). Top-end shops gravitate around the Triangle d’Or, Bordeaux’s monumental heart, bounded by three fine boulevards (Cours Clemenceau, Cours de l’Intendance, Allées de Tourny). For those more interested in quirky, individual fashion try the boutiques in the Saint Paul and Saint Piert districts.

A noteworthy feature of the city is the promenade on the left bank of the Garonne which has become one of Bordeaux’s most popular spots, hosting many events and festivals during the summer. The 4.5 km promenade is also perfect for a walk or a bicycle tour. The most interesting part of it is between the two bridges of Bordeaux. The old town has some of the largest concentrations of 18th century buildings in Europe which will knock your socks off.

And if you are in to markets you have to visit Marches des Capucines, the biggest daily market in the city. Among the displays of fruit, vegetables and sweets are numerous cafes and restaurants. It gets very busy at weekends

Interest-filled sidelanes abound in the city. Porte de Cailhau can be seen in the background

Miror d’eau

But undoubtedly one of the new main attractions of the city is the remarkable riverside Miroir d’eau. Built in 2006 it is the world’s largest reflecting pool. The surface is made from blue granite covered in water, reflecting the 18th century Place de la Bourse. At regular intervals fountains dotted all over its surface spray water 30 metres into the air and the game for youngsters is to try to avoid getting drenched. It’s also a popular game for older youngsters on a hot, sunny day.

Another modern attraction, particularly for wine lovers is Cité du Vin, the wine museum housed in a shiny aluminum structure that looks like a giant foot. It has an enormous wine shop featuring well over a thousand wines from France and the rest of the world as well as numerous tasting opportunities amid the mesmerising inter-active displays.

The Grand Theatre

Another modern attraction, particularly for wine lovers is Cité du Vin, the wine museum housed in a shiny aluminum structure that looks like a giant foot.

Meanwhile another section allow you to engage your senses of smell and taste as you identify typical notes in wines, from citrus and deep berry to leather and chocolate. Your visit can conclude with a glass of wine upstairs, in the tasting room featuring a variety of wines from France and around the world.

Some suggested day trips from Bordeaux

Saint Emilion

Of all the excursions convenient from Bordeaux Saint-Emilion is undoubtedly the most popular and is only about an hour by train. But be warned: it is a tourist honey-pot with prices noticeably higher than Bordeaux and many of its up-and-down side lanes, while delightful, are a challenge for the less mobile. That said it is a charming medieval village boasting world-famous wineries (many open to tour) and some excellent, if rather expensive restaurants, and beautiful architecture. The Saint-Emilion wines are world famous thanks to the Jurade, a wine brotherhood that was yet created in 1199 by John, King of England. It was disbanded during the French Revolution but resurrected in 1948. It is now in charge of promoting Saint-Emilion wine around the world and of organising every year the Spring Feast and the Ban des Vendanges (administrative authorisation to start the grape harvest).

Medoc

This is another ‘wine town’ 40 km northwest of Bordeaux, to the south of the estuary. Médoc is home to the most prestigious of the Bordeaux estates. Its Grands Crus, such as Château Margaux, are among the most expensive wines in the world.

Arcachon

Arcachon is Bordeaux's nearest -- Less than an hour by train -- seaside resort, on the Côte d’Argent, Atlantic coast. and is celebrated for its seafood restaurants featuring oysters from Cap Ferret. It is full of

The gothic St Michel church, whose free-standing spire is the tallest building in Bordeaux with outstanding views at the top. One Sunday mornings a flea market fills the surrounding square.

St Emilion is easily reached from Bordeaux. It is a most asttractive town, but beware of the hilly sidelanes!

As one of France’s celebrated gastronomic cities -- it holds the record for the number of restaurants per inhabitant in France -- Bordeaux can boast an extensive choice of restaurants, serving French classics, modern and regional fayre, Italian, Spanish and ethnic offerings. On the whole prices are more reasonable than Ireland and in many cases considerably less expensive, and you will definitely notice the lower-priced wine lists. As ever you need to walk around and window-shop the menus until you see something that appeals to you on the food and value front. My rough rule of thumb whenever I am going to stay in one place for three or four days is to take notes of places I fancy during my day-time wanderings, and after a light lunch, try them in the evening. These are two restaurants I can recommend ( It’s entirely coincidental that they are close to each other on the same street):

La Brasserie Bordelaise Specialises in steak and beef dishes but also serve some fine fish, chicken and duck 50 rue Saint-Rémi 33000 Bordeaux Tél. 05 57 87 11 91 Email: contact@brasserie-bordelaise.fr www.brasserie-bordelaise.fr Nearest tram stop: Grand Théâtre, Place de la Bourse

Le Chaudron Modern French with set menus from around 14 Euro up to 30-odd with an extensive a la carte. Favoured by the young-uns but don’t let that intimate you -the natives are friendly. Student waiters and waitresses – you know the story. Reasonably priced wine list. 41-43 Rue Saint Rem, 33000, Bordeaux. Tel: 055681 7430 www.le-chaudron.fr/

River cruises I would heartily recommend a river cruise with lunch. These are offered all over and it’s just a question of how much you want to spend. For around 70 Euro you can get a decent three-course lunch and a thoroughly enjoyable trip.

You can get information on hotels from the websites below but one I can recommend is:

Hôtel Regina. Situated directly opposite the Gare St Jean mainline railway station and the coach stop to and from the airport. Reasonable rates. A 15 minute tram ride into the city centre 34 Rue Charles Domercq, 33800 Bordeaux. Tél: +33 (0)5 56 91 66 07 Email: contact@hotelreginabordeaux.com www.hotelreginabordeaux.com

One of Bordeaux’s most distinctive sites is Maison Gobineau, the triangular-shaped building at the southern tip of Allées de Tourny that many compare with New York’s famous Flatiron Building. The ground floor is now a wine bar but it used to be a cinema.

Oyster beds at Cap Ferret

charming Victorian buildings boasting stained glass and wrought iron edifices, many now private apartments, shops and fine restaurants catering for all tastes and pockets. Seafood restaurants abound and if you are partial to oysters it would be sacrilege not to enjoy a leisurely lunch starring these molluscs with perhaps a tasty sole accompanied by one of the numerous splendid white wines from the region. These stylish restaurants are not cheap but infinitely more reasonable than ‘fine dining ‘in Ireland

The town has an elegant pier with grand hotels and is stylish without being intimidating. A great place for a stroll along its promenades.

Cap Ferret

A ferry operates from Arcachon to Cap Ferret which is an up-market resorts at the tip of the headland, full of smart people, smart restaurants, smart cars, and smart clothes. Its smart streets are peppered with oh-so-painfully trendy art galleries and craft shops and boutiques with minimalist displays. I’m sure it’s a lovely place to live and is certainly worth visiting and might interest those who aspire to take up residence there.

It’s worth taking a trip on the Tramway du Cap-Ferret, a diesel operated narrow-gauge railway which links the ferry landing on the shores of Arcachon Bay with the beaches on the Atlantic coast.

One travel writer summed it up well: ‘There are no museums, and no attractions apart from (obviously) the beaches, and the chance to live the French life .. Cap Ferret is akin to the Côte d'Azur - but without the bling and the desperate exhibitionism. You might say it is a kind of European Martha's Vineyard: exclusive, isolated, rather fine’.

Further information Bordeaux-tourisme.co.uk

Of all the excursions convenient from Bordeaux Saint-Emilion is undoubtedly the most popular and is only about an hour by train.

Sainte Catherine, the longest pedestrianised street in France where you will find all the main fashion names and designer labels

Getting around

A cheap and efficient tram service takes you all over the city and gets you back from the places you want to see.

Getting there

Ryanair flies from Dublin and Cork to Bordeaux

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux