Western ways

George Keegan on what’s happening in travel, the arts, food and entertainment along the Western Seaboard

The Humbert Way, a notable Mayo Greenway

The Franco/Irish army marched along the west shore of Lough Conn to Castlebar where they took the British forces completely by surprise

The appetite for more outdoor pursuits has increased dramatically in recent years as the number of new greenways, walking trails and cycle routes proves. Here along the Western Seaboard we are spoiled with the number of options on offer. One interesting and historic trail is called the Humbert Way.

The name comes from Jean Joseph Amable Humbert a general and leader of a French expeditionary force who landed at Kilcummin Pier on Killala Bay in the year 1798.They arrived to help the Irish in their rebellion and on board ship were 1,000 men including Matthew Tone the brother of Wolfe Tone.

On coming ashore they took over the residence of Bishop Joseph Stock then protestant Bishop of Killala as their temporary headquarters before starting out on the long journey across country to Ballina and Castlebar. Along the way some 3000 Irishmen joined the force with many carrying just pikes and pitchforks. The Franco/Irish army marched along the west shore of Lough Conn to Castlebar where they took the British forces completely by surprise. They then set about positioning themselves at vital points around the town. The Crown forces fled from Castlebar with the rebels in pursuit. Eventually however the rebels were themselves surrounded at Ballinamuck in County Longford in September of that year.

Now this famous route taken by General Humbert and his men has been made into a 225km cycle trail passing through the foir counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim and Longford, starting from Kilcummin pier, Killala. On the route there are numerous finger signposts alerting cyclists to several areas of particular historical interest. It is deemed to be from easy to moderate and will suit cyclists of all ages and experience. The route will bring you through some really spectacular scenery especially along the coast passing Bartra Island on Killala Bay. Points of interest include Ballina, the largest town in Mayo where the wonderful Belleek Woods (a birdwatcher’s paradise) is situated, Rosserk Friary (7km north on the banks of the Moy), Moyne Abbey (an ecclesiastical ruin and national monument) the Moy Estuary, Bartra Island and Killala village. Each year a Tour De Humbert 90km cycling challenge takes place in summer and is scheduled to include the Síamsa Sráide summer street festival in Swinford( July 29th-Aug 3rd).

Moyne Abbey

The Humbert Memorial, Ballina The mausoleum in Belleek woods in Ballina Co Mayo. Sir Francis Author Knox Gore (18031878), inherited Belleek Demesne in 1818. He was responsible for building Belleek Manor (now Belleek Castle hotel). On his death he wished to be buried in the grounds of the demesne with his horse! His son, Sir Charles James Knox Gore, had the mausoleum built over what is thought to be his father’s grave.

Western Ways Foxford Looped Walks awaits you

Not far from Ballina you will find the interesting town of Foxford situated between the Ox and Nephin mountains and famous for its historic Mill. The town has established an excellent reputation for being a tourist centre and is popular too for anyone interested in fishing because the river Moy has some great stretches ideal for catching salmon. The two Loughs close by are also noted for brown trout. One famous son of the town was William Brown born 1777 who became the first Admiral of the Argentine Navy and is today considered a hero in that country. There is a memorial park in the town in his name.

At the car park beside the Foxford Sports and Leisure Centre and the children’s playground are a number of signs giving details of the looped walks. The series of walks were developed in partnership with Mayo North East Leader Company Teoranta, Mayo County Council, the County Development Board, local Rural Social Scheme, landowners and local communities. They range from one to eight hours depending on route chosen. All are well sign posted throughout. One of the easiest and most popular is the ‘Town Looped Walk’ which is just 4km and takes about 60 minutes to complete. The way is marked with green arrow on white background. It will bring you alongside the river Moy and there is a section through a quiet rural landscape before returning to the town. If pooch is with you on your visit he can go along too when on a lead.

The longest of the routes is the 86km Foxford Way which complements the Mayo Western Way. This goes south from the town to Straide, around Lough Cullin to Pontoon. It is in fact a circular tour of North East Mayo.

While Foxford now has a thriving community it was not always the case. During the time of the Great Famine there was nothing but poverty and desolation in the local area.

History of the Mills

Everything started to change when a nun, Sister Agnes Morrogh Bernard, originally from Cheltenham in England, became a member of the Irish Sisters of Charity. One day in 1892 she stood on the bridge in the town overlooking the rushing River Moy and had a vision of starting a woollen mill. Her aim was to help create employment for the unfortunate impoverished people of the area following the famine. This remarkable story took another twist when Sister Agnes was put in touch with a Protestant from County Tyrone named John Charles Smith, owner of a mill in that county. The pair were introduced by a relation of Sister Agnes who happened to be the Irish Political Leader Michael Davitt. This partnership, which was certainly very rare indeed in the Ireland of the 19th century, continued for several years with Smith taking on an advisory role in the Foxford business.

It is said that Sister Agnes showed a tireless energy when she set about her plan. In those early years she organised the setting up of the mill, turned a family home into a convent and transformed a corn store into a school, complete with dormitory and refectory plus sewing and loom room. This quite amazing person also constructed a mill race, erected a turbine and sometime later formed an orchestra and a brass and reed band. The band was formed specifically as a social outlet for the mill workers and still exists in the town today. The site for the new mill was of course ideal as the river was usually in full flood so producing plenty of power for the turbines. The whole concept turned out to be a blessing for the local community who were suddenly able to supplement their small income by spinning and weaving both woollen and linen in their houses. The fact that many sheep were raised locally was another plus as the wool could be sold to the mill. The business proved to be a real success story and not even the outbreak of a huge fire on the premises in 1907 stopped Sister Agnes from achieving her aim. Up to 220 workers were employed during the mill’s first 90 years. It’s interesting to note at one time all Garda uniforms for the force were produced in Foxford. The Mills are still in operation today.

Michael Davitt Museum worth a visit

A Heritage Museum in the village of Straide on the N58 between Ballyvary and Foxford contains a large collection of historical artefacts, original documents as well as photographs, letters, postcards and land acts all connected to the politician’s life and his work with the National Land League.

It is set in a restored pre-penal church in use prior to the enactment of the 1690 penal laws. There is a visitor centre, car park and a picnic area where local families and tourists can enjoy some lunch on a summer’s day. Adjacent to the museum is the remains of Straide Abbey where Davitt was buried.

Useful websites: www.northmayo.ie www.mayowalks.ie www.paradisepossible.ie www.visitfoxford.com www.michaeldavittmuseum.ie www.discoverireland.ie