Magnificent Montpelier

Marisa Mackie was charmed by the capital of France’s Herault region

Summer is here, and weekends away to hotter climates suddenly feel very tempting. If you don’t want to venture too far, France is a great option. The South of the country has always been popular with us Irish, and it’s hard to beat Montpelier as a destination.

The bustling, beautiful French city is the capital of France’s Herault region. On my first visit to Montpelier, about a decade ago, I was enchanted by the outdoor cafes, the chic boutiques and the delightful walks along the river. I was staying with my sister, who was studying medicine at Montpellier at the time.

The city is renowned for having the oldest still-active medical school in Europe. It has a fascinating history, and the charms of yesteryear can be found wandering through the pretty, but tiny medieval, cobbled streets.

I returned recently and found Montpelier just as captivating as the last time. After checking into my hotel, I ambled around the main square, enjoying the lovely mild weather. I stumbled across a gorgeous Irish bar called O’ Carolans, and relishing the Friday evening atmosphere, I savoured an ice-cold glass of wine. and immediately relaxed. Ah yes, it was good to be back.

Later on that evening, after changing into more fancy clothes, I met up with friends and we sampled a gorgeous restaurant called Le Petit Jardin www.petit-jardin.com

As the ‘Little Garden’ name suggests, many of the tables were outside, and it was so pleasant to sit under the trees and relax while enjoying great local wines and spectacular food. Gentlemen, if you’re thinking of proposing any time soon, book a trip to Montpellier and secure a table at this very special establishment. It’s so romantic that she’s bound to say yes!

Back to my centrally-located hotel (Hotel d’Aragon), I enjoyed a relaxing bath and put my head down for the night, excited

I about what the next day would bring. And it certainly didn’t disappoint. Just after breakfast (fresh butter croissants and pains-au-chocolat – ssshhh!), I felt rested enough to enjoy taking in the city’s sights by foot.

I was lucky enough to find an entertaining local tour guide who took me to see the interesting architecture of the town hall. He showed me a fascinating underground Jewish mikvah, which is a ceremonial bath in the old town (it’s possible to book a private visit with the tourist board). The guide also brought me to the cathedral – a truly majestic, magnificent building with twin turrets and breath-taking detailing.

On the tour I also discovered Montpellier’s anatomy museum where human dissections used to take place hundreds of years ago during the winter months (when bodies were slower to decay).

I was intrigued by all this information. Human dissections? Really? Well, yes, apparently. The only bodies that could be dissected were those of executed criminals, or so I was told. The museum was in fact, closed to the public for many years, but now, not-so-squeamish modern visitors may book a tour via the French tourist office. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if that eerie place was haunted, Enter at your peril!

Montpellier is fairly small for a city, so it’s easy to walk around and you don’t need a car. The trams are frequent and efficient, should you wish to rest your feet. The vibrant, city has a heaving student population, but the students are replaced with tourists in the summer. Many of the streets are pedestrianised, so it is perfectly easy to stroll around. The main square is called Place de la Comedie. This is a favourite meeting hub for people watchers to sit outside the bars and restaurants with a nice glass cool aperitif before dinner.

The nearby Champ de Mars garden is a truly splendid avenue with pretty trees and fountains and is the perfect place for either a morning or evening stroll. This is where you will also find the Museé Fabre [MM1], a spectacular art gallery where I disappeared to for an entire morning to admire the works of amazing French, Dutch, Flemish and Italian painters. I found this place an unexpected treasure and a highlight of my visit. If you appreciate wonderful art, you will be in your element.

Montpellier, as it’s so close to the Mediterranean, enjoys a gorgeous, mild climate. It lends itself perfectly for eating outdoors. A very popular eaterie I stumbled upon was Chez Boris. This gem of a spot for lunch, is located very near the gallery (look out for the red roof!) www.chezboris.com

Now, after all that sightseeing and people-watching, you may just fancy a trip to the beach, and the region is blessed with magnificent beaches within a short driving distance. You can also get a tram from the city during the summer months. The beaches boast soft, white clean sand. There is nothing stopping you taking a dip in the Med!

Helpful websites include: www.languedoc.com www.aerlingus.com www.montpellier-france.com