5 minute read
THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY IS *FINALLY* ADOPTING INCLUSIVE SHADE RANGES, BUT IT CERTAINLY ISN’T OVER YET
The Beauty Is *Finally* Adopting Inclusive Shade Ranges, But It Certainly Isn't Over Yet
2017 was a change-making year as we saw the iconic launch of Rihanna's cosmetics brand, Fenty Beauty, disrupt the beauty game with 40 shades (which is now 50 by the way!) of her Pro Filt'r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation. 5 years on, and with the beauty industry more inclusively diverse than ever before, we take a look at its progressive journey. But with that being said, there are still improvements that need to be made. Global beauty players such as Charlotte Tilbury, Mac, Urban Decay and Estee Lauder, are acing the game of diversity by each providing 40+ shade ranges; with heritage, high street brands, The Body Shop, Clinique and Lancome also having widened the inclusivity of the products they create. Similarly, innovators, Il Makiage are known (and loved) for their accurate shade matching quiz, helping customers to effectively purchase their correct shade online. The late 2010s was a movement of expanding beauty lines so that everyone can enjoy them. We spoke to 5 experts from the beauty industry to discuss their thoughts on the evolution of inclusive beauty, their favourite go-to products and what they think needs to happen next. Founder of WOW Beauty and The D.O.R Edit, Denise Rabor works to create an online destination for inclusive, ethical, independent and female-led skincare brands. The London-based entrepreneur describes how there has been some progress within the product diversity of the beauty industry, however, the issue is multifaceted and calls for increased diversity amongst the decisionmakers to reflect the world we live in: "The industry is about consumers and their experiences, but it’s also about those that work in it - from the beauty schools to the PRs to the corporate decision-makers."
Advertisement
‘The same energy that has gone into gender diversity needs to go into creating a diverse and inclusive beauty industry at all levels.
- Denise Rabor, Founder of WOW Beauty and The D.O.R Edit
Pushed into action by the 'Fenty effect', the beauty industry has seen many brands up their shade range over the last few years, but others such as NARS and Mac having always offered a diverse collection of choice. Rabor adds: "There is a lot more choice as more brands are coming to market, and existing brands are expanding their offerings so that darker shades are not just an afterthought amongst a sea of beige." The inclusive beauty expert applauds brands such as Bobbi Brown, Pat McGrath Labs, Mac, and Estée Lauder, as some of the more diverse brands in the market. Beauty, Fashion and Lifestyle Digital Creator, Sebina Hussain notes having seen the way brands and organisations are actively working on learning and becoming more inclusive. But there is still a lot of work to do, Hussain said: “When we are exposed to diversity on such a huge scale, it makes us question whether our own workplaces, industries and lives are as diverse and accepting as they should be.” Growing up within the South Asian community, Hussain also noted her love for Mac, Bobbi Brown and NARS’ broad shade offerings, she said: “In 2022, if as a brand you are offering anything less than 30-40 shades for a new launch, then it is nothing to be proud of.” To continue making diverse improvements, Hussain believes brands need to begin working more collaboratively within the communities they are marketing to, she added: “This can no longer be a tick box exercise or just tapping into a cultural moment for the commerciality of it all, in order to truly become more diverse and inclusive, brands have to create opportunities for open, honest conversations.”
- Wizz Selvey, Founder and CEO of WIZZ&CO
‘Providing vast shade options should be the norm.
- Wizz Selvey, Founder and CEO of WIZZ&CO
Media Makeup and Hair Artist, Bryanna Angel Ryder has welcomed progress with diversity and inclusion within the beauty industry, but insists there's still room for improvement and consistency: "Inclusion is not about ticking boxes, it needs to be consistent and the focus should remain on long term change - it isn't change if it's temporary." As an artist, Ryder has “noticed over the past couple of years an amazing change in the shades and undertones of beauty products,” Gravitating to products depending on their colour range and coverage, Ryder’s personal favourite brands including Beauty Blender, Ilia Beauty and Illamsqua. Moving forward, the artist said: “Advertising needs to be consistent and relatable, people shouldn’t have to look at advertising and only see a polished version of beautiful, we need to see real and relatable, so we don’t compare ourselves.”
Stressing the importance of brands putting their customer at the heart of their communication, marketing and imagery, Founder and CEO of expert brand strategist company WIZZ&CO, Wizz Selvey said: "If a customer looks at a brand and doesn't seem themself, or their problem, reflected, they're much less likely to buy and become an advocate for that brand." Selvey added: "I feel it's an issue that has gone unspoken for years, and now people are really putting pressure on brands to think about it in every aspect of their business." Leading experts in artificial intelligence and augmented reality for beauty and fashion, Perfect Corp, are pushing to transform the consumer shopping experience, making struggles such as picking your shade online much easier. CEO Alice Chang described the beauty industry’s overdue shift to embrace a multi-dimensional approach that speaks to the unique needs and preferences of the customer, she said: “Augmented Reality (AR) and Artificial Intelligence (AI) virtual try-on technologies, which enable brands to connect with individual consumers and deliver more personalized beauty recommendations that encourage personal discovery, and diversity throughout the industry.” Chang explains advanced AI technology can help accurately detect the complete range of 89,000 individual skin tones, guiding customers through a personalised experience to find their unique identity, and purchase the best 34 matching shade for them.
