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BOOKSTORES

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SEPTEMBER 2017

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The Lens

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The local, independently operated bookshop is making a comeback, at least for now. Offering carefully curated selections of largely independent publications, the independent bookstore is more than just a place to buy dead tree products. It is a nexus of communication, a cultural platform where ideas are discussed and interests are shared. In their location, design and merchandise, the shops reflect the passions of their owners and the desire of the community for something more than a simple book-buying experience. In this issue of SEOUL, we’ll introduce some of these bookstores, talking to owners, writers and publishers to examine what’s driving the independent bookstore boom and to learn what lies ahead. Also in this issue, we’ll explore some of the neighborhoods west of Seoullo 7017, venture to mountainous Yeongju, talk with artist Kim Hyun Jung, enjoy some hearty gopchang and much, much more.

Contents

The Lens

Dining

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Food as Play 46 Gopchang, Daechang, Makchang 48

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Nightlife

More Than a Local Bookshop

Ladies Manning the Bar 50 A Guide to Camping Near Seoul

Exploring Seoul

Off Seoullo 7017 20

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10 Your Mindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new space is tastefully designed and houses friendly cats to welcome its vistors.

Exploring Seoul

More Than a Local Bookshop Independent bookstores and publishers are building new platforms for expression and communication Written by Diana Park

ÂŠ Robert Koehler

Magazine

Amoo Bookstore’s walls are full of design-savvy decorations.

Books are making a comeback in Korea. In a nation where people seemingly prefer smartphones over books, neighborhood bookshops are attracting foot traffic all over the city. Among online bookshops and large chain bookstores that dominate the book industry, clusters of independent bookstores are forming a market of their own. Independent bookstores not only provide hard-to-find books, they also challenge the traditional role of the bookstore and experiment with new modes of book production and sales. In other words, they are more than places to just buy books; they are incubators for creative approaches and new opportunities. Located largely in trendy neighborhoods of Seoul, independent bookstores are becoming new cultural hot spots.

Different over better Steve Jobs, the late CEO of Apple, once told his employees, “Better is not enough. Try to be different.” This philosophy fuels the independent bookstore boom. Independent bookstores represent spaces “independent” from mainstream standards. Instead, they reflect the bookshop owner’s taste and curatorial

skills. While large chain stores gravitate towards bestselling titles and focus on sales, small bookshops boast carefully curated book collections that include titles uncommon in chain stores. In a city full of trend-savvy and experience-oriented residents, independent bookstores are an exceptional alternative to the cool café next door. Young people flock to these bookstores for an enhanced reading experience. After a grueling day at work, visitors can relax and find solace in books that speak to them. Many of these shops are in the trendiest neighborhoods like Hongdae, Seochon and Itaewon. The owner’s sensibility is evidenced through the books on the shelves, as well as through the space and interior design. Consumers find satisfaction not only in the beautiful books, but also through sharing their unique purchases and experiences through social media. These experiences encourage visitors to seek out remote brick-and-mortar bookshops rather than succumbing to the convenience of online shopping. Some independent bookshops are so-called “concept bookstores” with specific foci. Themed bookshops

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ÂŠ Lee Hyun-suk

ÂŠ Zipbob Visitors enjoy magazines at Storage Books and Film.

Magazine

Book and Pub offer a wide range of indepedent publications.

Exploring Seoul

14 Chowonenjoy Books books to satsify the taste of music enthusiasts. Seoulites thecarries charms of Seoullo 7017.

In a city full of trend-savvy and experience-oriented residents, independent bookstores are an exceptional alternative to the cool café next door.

with events and workshops elevate book shopping into a cohesive cultural experience. Sajeokin Bookshop, the name of which translates as “Intimate Bookshop,” is a private, by-appointment store in Mapo-gu that prescribes books to visitors after an intimate conversation with a book curator. In Book and Pub in Mapo-gu, you can enjoy your book over a nice glass of wine. Storage Book and Film in Haebangchon hosts workshops for aspiring book makers. B-Platform, near Hapjeong Station, comprises a bookshop, art gallery and studio space where bookbinding classes take place. Saie in Yeonamdong perks the visitor’s wanderlust through a selection of travel books. Cat Bookstore Schrodinger in Jongno-gu carries only cat-related books for cat lovers. The list is endless and will continue to grow to satisfy individuals who crave new stories and experiences.

Do what you love Bookshops are not, generally speaking, cash cows. They are labors of love, built from scratch by people who chose the trade out of a passion for books and print media. This passion shines through each book placed in their shops. As resignation reigns among young office workers worn out by Korea’s demanding office culture, and a desire grows to do what you love, independent bookshop owners and independent publishers show you can forge your own path by following your heart. Storage Book and Film, located in Haebangchon, opened in 2012. Before opening the shop, owner Kang Younggyu worked as a bank accountant for eight years. “Even when I was working, I never thought that office life was the answer,” he says. “I felt like the answer for my life wasn’t there. When I started making my own books, I realized that this was a true passion.” Ko Seong Bae, editor-in-chief of The Kooh, an

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independent magazine inspired by the Japanese otaku scene, and writer of many independent books, has a background in architecture. “Even when I was working, I wanted to learn things,” he says. “One of the many things I did was attending a magazine workshop. I made the first edition of The Kooh there. The instructors advised me not to quit my job, but I did soon after.” Now, he is a publisher, editor and marketer all in one. Kang of Storage Book and Film recalls, “I received little joy from the repetitive office lifestyle. As a bookstore owner, I never know when surprising events or opportunities will come. I find that rewarding and motivational, especially when things get tough.” One such surprise came at this year’s Seoul International Book Fair, Seoul’s biggest book fair, held in June 2017. Over 200,000 people attended the four-day event. His shop was part of the special section called “The Era of Bookstores.” This program highlighted the vibrant local book scene by featuring 20 neighborhood bookstores around Seoul. Storage Book and Film was one of the most popular booths in the section. “The response was explosive and surprising,” says Kang. “I think we were well received because we produce independent publications.” Independent publications are one-of-a-kind products with unique layouts, concepts, design and packaging that challenge the format and content of books seen in large stores. Like the bookstores in which they are often found, independent publications cover topics and ideas that may not be presented in mainstream outlets. “When I made my photo book in 2011, I realized there were few shops with independent publications,” says Kang. “So I opened my own to feature not just my books, but also others. Now many shops in Seoul sell independent publications.”

Iro of Your Mind shares about independent bookshop and publication market in Korea.

Rise of independent publications The concept and curation of independent bookstores ultimately reflect the owner’s tastes and preferences. Because they themselves want to read or feature certain books, they open bookstores to make these available to people. Likewise, independent publications offer content publishers want to share with readers. To sustain the independent market, the relationship between independent bookstores and independent publishers is critical. “I don’t think independent publishers and bookshops can function without each other,” says Ko. “We must collaborate because when bookshops do well, creators do well.” He adds, “We need each other because creators need to sell books and owners must have products to sell. We can help each other do that through quality.” Independent publications engineer a new level of creativity beyond the plain reading experience. Iro, owner of Your Mind, a bookshop and publication located in Yeonnam-dong, has been a pioneer in the

niche print market. Iro began selling art books and independent publications online in 2009. The following year, he opened a brick-and-mortar bookstore. For the past eight years, he’s hosted a one-of-kind independent festival called the Unlimited Edition (UE). The annual event, which kicked off humbly with just 900 attendees in 2009, grew exponentially over the years with 15,000 visitors last year. Last December, the eighth UE opened at the Ilmin Museum with over 200 vendors consisting of writers, artists, illustrators, photographers, designers and independent publishers. Iro is currently planning the ninth gathering, which will open at the end of the year. UE began as an attempt to answer a question commonly raised by customers of independent bookstores — who are the people behind these books? “In a typical bookstore, books include the author’s profile. Our books don’t have that information, so our visitors choose books purely based on their observation and perception,” said Iro. “We knew that people will be curious about the makers, and that the creators will also be interested in the people reading and following

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their work. What will happen when the person behind the book steps forward? So we started the fair.” While UE is a celebration of underground creators, the Seoul International Book Fair is a mainstream gathering of book lovers. “I was impressed by the public’s awareness of terms like ‘art books’ and ‘independent publication.’ Back in 2010, people didn’t know these terms,” says Iro. “But because people who came to the fair were interested in books, they had prior knowledge of things like bookstores’ histories.” The growing public awareness of the independent print industry is resulting in dynamic opportunities for its creators. The mix of independent bookstores and independent publications is creating a platform for existing makers to collaborate and for more people to experiment creatively. “The roles of independent publishers are evolving,” says Ko. “We’re moving from being bookmakers to innovators of cultural content. We are collaborating with magazines to write articles and hosting workshops on book creation in museums. The definition will only continue to expand.”

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B-Platform is full of international picture books.

The mix of independent bookstores and independent publications is creating a platform for existing makers to collaborate and for more people to experiment creatively.

A participant of Ko Seong Bae’s magazine workshop writes on her mockup magazine page.

Behind every well-intentioned effort is concern over the sustainability of independent bookstores. While local bookshops are increasing steadily in number, whether they develop over the long haul or die out as a short-lived trend is yet to be seen. Han Gi Ho, head of the Korean Publication Marketing Research Lab, said to the Kyunghyang Shinmun, “There are 160 neighborhood bookstores registered on Google, a number expected to increase to 200 soon.” Among these numbers, however, are untold tales of bookshops that never made it. “There are many stories about new bookstores, but none about the ones that disappeared. There are many that went out of business,” says Iro. “That’s unfortunate, but I personally want more to open up. It would be great to have more bookstores with more specific characters, personalities and colors.” One value the independent book market shares is freedom of expression, accessible and available to all. For the industry, books and magazines form an

expressive outlet. With the right tools and know-how, people who don’t have training in design or writing can become one-person publishers. Ko says, “They don’t necessarily have to be professionals, but can be anyone with an interest.” There are, however, concerns regarding the level of quality compared to when only experts made books. Iro is optimistic. “Since book crafting techniques are widespread now, the art can become a trend, sacrificing quality,” he says. “But from that pool comes an interesting book once in a while. I enjoy those surprises.” His optimism also stems from his confidence in the larger platform for the independent book market, the city of Seoul. “I love Seoul because you can take chances here,” he says “We’re opening under-the-radar bookstores featuring works of unknown creators. In cities where such risks are discouraged, people would be more skeptical. I find Seoul fascinating as a platform to explore and try new things, regardless of the risks.”

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UNIQUE BOOKSHOPS IN SEOUL Here is a list of bookstores in Seoulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendiest neighborhoods Written by Diana Park

JONGNO-GU

MAPO-GU

OTHER DISTRICTS

CAT BOOKSTORE SCHRODINGER 19 Naksan-gil T. 070-5123-2801 For: cat-related books for all cat lovers

BOOK AND PUB 9-60 Yeomni-dong E. booknpub@gmail.com For: books, literature gatherings and wine after work

AMOO BOOKSTORE 152-48 Jeonnong-dong, Dongdaemun-gu T. 010-8624-7462 For: independent publications, literature selections and drawing and reading classes

B-PLATFORM 372-7 Hapjeong-dong T. 070-4001-8388 For: local and foreign picture books, art books, art gallery and bookbinding classes

MYSTERY UNION 88-11 Ewhayeodae-gil, Daehyeon-dong, Seodaemun-gu T. 02-6080-7040 For: books and gatherings about mystery

CHOWON BOOKS 488-15 Yeomni-dong T. 02-702-5001 For: books about music and music-related workshops like songwriting

NORMAL A 2F, Euljiro 121-1, Jung-gu T. 070-4681-5858 For: graphic novels, independent publications and art books

LINER NOTE 240-47 Yeonnam-dong T. 02-337-9966 For: books about music, along with related performances and lectures

PRESCENT 14 1 Yangpyeong-ro 22ra-gil, Yeongdeungpogu T. 02-2679-1414 For: enjoying fragrance selections with books

IRASUN 7-13 Tongui-dong T. 010-5420-0908 For: specialized curation of photography books SEOUL SELECTION BOOKSHOP 105-2 Sagan-dong T. 02-734-9565 For: English and Korean books about Korean culture and language THE BOOK SOCIETY 22 Jahamun-ro 10-gil T. 070-8621-5676 For: design and art books, independent publications YONGSAN-GU BYEOL CHECK 8 Sinheung-ro 22ga-gil T. 070-5103-0341 For: used books, independent publications and design products GOYO BOOKSHOP 18-4 Sinheungro 15-gil T. 010-7262-4226 For: cultural-savvy literature and poetry books STORAGE BOOK AND FILM 1-701 Yongsandong 2(i)-ga T. 070-5103-9975 For: unique independent publications, and workshops about magazine and independent book making

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SAIE 2F, 223-44 Yeonnam-dong T. 02-325-6563 For: well-curated books about domestic and international travel

WIT N CYNICAL 3F, 27-33 Daehyeon-dong, Seodaemun-gu T. 070-7542-8972 For: a selection of poetry books in a store owned by a poet

SAJEOKIN BOOKSHOP 60 Seogangro 9-gil E. sajeokin_bookshop@naver.com For: by-appointment, personally prescribed books by a book curator YOUR MIND 10-6 Yeonhui-ro 11ra-gil T. 070-8821-8990 For: tasteful bookshop with art books, independent publications and cats

서울로 7017 주변 명소

Off Seoullo 7017 Grit, history and flavor await west of Seoul Station Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Cheongpa-dong offers fine views of the Seoul Station area and Mt. Namsan.

Exploring Seoul

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Virtually unchanged since 1927, Seongwoo Barbershop in Malli Market is a piece of living history.

Though Seoullo 7017 is worth seeing in its own right, Seoul’s elevated park is also an excuse to discover some of the city’s most under-appreciated neighborhoods. The hilly, largely working class zone west of Seoul Station is a rough batter of modern history, urban grit, residential tranquility, scenic beauty and, increasingly, creative sophistication. It’s an area you could spend all day exploring, wandering its claustrophobic alleys, taking in its panoramic views, drinking in its history and savoring its culinary offerings.

A piece of footwear history Spanning the railway tracks just north of Seoul Station, the Yeomcheongyo Bridge links the Namdaemun district to the east and the Jungnim-dong district to the west. It’s also the location of Yeomcheongyo Shoe Street, the birthplace of Korea’s handmade shoe industry. Around 130 cordwainers have workshops in an aging building atop the historical bridge. Some of them have been in the business for decades. You’ll find all sorts of finely

crafted shoes here, from dress shoes to hiking boots and dance shoes. Yeomcheongyo Shoe Street’s history begins in 1925, the year Seoul Station opened, leading to an influx of people and merchants. After the Korean War, local craftsmen began repairing and reselling old U.S. army boots. Soon, however, they were making handmade shoes of their own. During Korea’s development years, when a pair of handmade shoes was a must, Yeomcheongyo’s merchants enjoyed a golden age. In 1974, when a bowl of jajangmyeon cost KRW 50, a pair of handmade men’s shoes cost KRW 14,000. In the 1990s, however, competition from imports and a decline in interest in handmade shoes hit Yeomcheongyo Shoe Street hard. Moreover, with less young people learning the craft, the cordwainers are growing fewer and fewer in numbers. Still, efforts are being made to revitalize the street, which many are now rediscovering thanks to Seoullo 7017. If you’re at Yeomcheongyo Shoe Street, be sure to stop

Exploring Seoul

Yunseul in Malli-dong Square uses light and shadows to artistic effect.

Oppa Egg Bread, in front of Sookmyung Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s University, serves egg bread with a dash of humor.

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24 CafĂŠ Moon, on Yeomcheongyo Shoe Street, exudes a vintage charm.

Exploring Seoul

While it might not seem like much at first glance, Mallidong is fast becoming one of Seoul’s newest hot spots. Thanks to its position as Seoullo 7017’s western gateway, the older, hillier neighborhood behind Seoul Station is home to a growing number of trendy eateries, cafés and pubs. Goobok Mandu’s authentically Chinese dumplings are so good the joint was mentioned in the 2017 Michelin Guide Seoul.

into Café Moon (T. 02-393-3624), a delightfully vintage coffee shop in the historical arcade building. The menu, décor and music will really take you back, and English is spoken here. Overlooking Yeomcheongyo Shoe Street to the west is Yakhyeon Hill, or “Medicinal Herb Hill.” Crowning the hill is Jungnim-dong Catholic Church, also known as Yakhyeon Catholic Church, Korea’s oldest Western-style church. Erected in 1892 and restored in 1998 following a fire, the brick church, designed by French missionaries, mixes Gothic and Romanesque elements. It also provides views of Sungnyemun Gate and the Namdaemun district.

A new hot spot? While it might not seem like much at first glance, Mallidong is fast becoming one of Seoul’s newest hot spots. Thanks to its position as Seoullo 7017’s western gateway, the older, hillier neighborhood behind Seoul Station is home to a growing number of trendy eateries, cafés and pubs. With a number of places of historical interest and scenic beauty, it’s a neighborhood worth exploring in its own right. The views begin as soon as you descend Seoullo 7017. In Malli-dong Square, the western entrance to the park, you’ll find Yunseul, a sunken garden that resembles an amphitheater covered by a set of stainless steel louvers. In addition to reflecting images of the city above, the louvers cast light and shadows on the floor of the garden, an uneven space composed of 2,800 steps. Its an optically mesmerizing experience. While Malli-dong Square might be spotless and new, the neighborhood around it is anything but. Mallidong’s charms lie in its timeworn storefronts and gritty

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alleyways, the latter sheltering an eclectic mix of older homes and businesses and creatively renovated spaces. How long Malli-dong remains this way before it is gentrified beyond recognition is anybody’s guess, so it’s best to see it now. One Malli-dong hot spot that requires no introduction is Very Street Kitchen (T. 02-312-0205), a trendy eatery serving beautifully prepared dishes based on street cuisine from around the world. It also does creative takes on Korean cuisine such as French-style steamed kimchi and pork cooked in white wine and steamed ribs served with Milanese risotto. Housed in a century-old granite building, the restaurant exudes a flair befitting a space owned and operated by renowned furniture designer Oh Joon. Much easier to miss — thanks to the lack of signage — is Reasonable Kitchen (T. 02-363-5008), an intimate restaurant and pub tucked away on a side street. The friendly owner and chef, who grew up in the neighborhood, turns out delightful, home-style spicy chicken stew, or dakbokkeumtang, using no artificial condiments like MSG. You’ll find plenty of other Korean pub grub options, too, and the soju list boasts cheap favorites as well as high-end, handcrafted brands like Hwayo and Moonbaesool. A hidden gem is Bidulki House (T. 0507-1458-0125), a guest house and café hidden in Malli-dong’s network of alleyways. Run by the same family for three generations, the guest house is an old Korean-style inn, or yeoinsuk. The space preserves the old yeoinsuk layout, including narrow corridors and staircases, but with tastefully renovated décor and amenities. The rooftop garden offers views of the surrounding neighborhood, including

Bidulki House is a former Korean-style inn-turned-guest house.

Seoul Square and Seoullo 7017. The café on the first floor is a cozy spot to relax over a coffee. Just up the street from Bidulki House is HyunSangSo (T. 02-312-0318), an old photo processing lab that has been converted into a café and exhibition space. The wide open space, with its wooden floors, high ceiling, white walls and vintage furniture and lamps, is warm and atmospheric. The menu, hand-written and delivered in white envelopes, includes such innovative creations as sea salt cream espresso and coconut base lavender lemonade. Malli-dong’s alleyways are full of history. Just across the street from Seoul Station is the 200-seat Baik-Chang Theater, home to the National Theater Company of Korea. Named for two of Korea’s greatest thespians, Baik Sung-hee and Chang Min-ho, the bright red complex of stacked containers and remodeled warehouses and garages used to be a motor pool for an army counterintelligence unit. In addition to the Baik-Chang Theater, the complex includes NTC Creative Space Pan, a smaller, 80-seat theater designed for cozier performances. Not far from the Baik-Chang Theater is Gaemi Supermarket, an old colonial era home that has served as a local grocery store and meeting place for decades. Recently repainted red, the shop, which is still a functioning grocery store, is covered in Polaroid photos of the many visitors who have come to see this little piece of old Seoul. Further along, across the

main street, Mallijae-ro, atop a hill overlooking the neighborhood, is Son Kee Chung Memorial Hall, a museum dedicated to Son Ki-chung, the gold medalist in the marathon in the 1936 Summer Olympic Games in Berlin. Growing in front of the museum, the former main hall of Yangjeong Middle School, Son’s alma mater, is an old laurel tree, a gift to Son from, ahem, the German chancellor at the time.

A piece of old Seoul Just next to Malli-dong is Cheongpa-dong, another neighborhood being rediscovered after the opening of Seoullo 7017. A low-rise, largely working class neighborhood on a hilltop overlooking Seoul Station, Cheongpa-dong was a Japanese residential district during the colonial era. After Korea’s liberation from colonial rule in 1945, wealthy Koreans moved in, building Korean-style Hanok homes. In the 1970s, working class families began settling in the area, building simple, Western-style brick houses. Low-cost apartments and larger, multifamily homes followed in the 1980s. As a result, the hillside is a dense collection of Japanese, Korean and Western style dwellings, a scene architecture scholar Im Seok-jae called a virtual “museum of 20th century housing.” To explore Cheongpa-dong properly is to get lost in its web of alleyways, discovering what lies just beyond

Exploring Seoul

Baik-Chang Theater is home to the National Theater Company of Korea.

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27 Bidulki Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cafĂŠ is a friendly space to have a coffee.

Housed in a century-old stone building, Very Street Kitchen combines history, style and flavor.

28 Reasonable Kitchen serves healthy Korean pop grub like dakbokkeumtang in a cozy, intimate setting.

Exploring Seoul

Trendy Malli-dong café HyunSangSo brings together creative beverages and art in a chic space.

every corner. Sitting atop a hill, the neighborhood offers fine views over the city, particularly the Seoul Station area and, beyond it, Mt. Namsan. Although older neighborhood institutions such as Cheongpa-dong Photo Studio and Waffle House (T. 02-711-2649) are slowly being joined by newer cafés, restaurants and businesses, the area is still mostly quiet and residential. On the western slope of Cheongpa-dong’s hill is Malli Market, an old-school outdoor market where you can find food, groceries and sundries. Hidden in one of the market’s alleyways is Seongu Barbershop (T. 02-7142968), one of the the city’s most fascinating pieces of living history. Run by Lee Nam-yeol, a third-generation barber, Seongu Barbershop has remained virtually unchanged since Lee’s grandfather founded the place in 1927. Indeed, the only alteration made to the ramshackle wood buildings with misaligned doors and a noticeable tilt is the slate roof, which replaced a straw roof that blew away in a typhoon in 1959. While the place may look like it’s on the verge of collapse, it keeps going strong with a loyal customer base who treasure Lee’s old school haircuts and the authentically vintage charm of his establishment. Cheongpa-dong’s younger side can be experienced around Sookmyung Women’s University. As you’d expect, the area surrounding one of the city’s major universities boasts a wide range of cafés and restaurants catering to a student clientèle. One local favorite that should not be missed is Oppa Egg Bread (T. 02-706-7180), a small shop serving “super big” egg bread, a snack of sweet bread baked with egg, cheese and other fillings. Gone is the rooftop sign that once implored, “Eat me, baby,” but the cheap, tasty bread remains. For more substantial, but still reasonably priced eats, head to Goobok Mandu

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Very Street Kitchen’s French-style steamed kimchi and pork, cooked in white wine, demonstrates its flare for the delectably experimental.

(T. 02-797-8656), a dumpling shop near Exit 3 of Sookmyung Women’s University Station. Cozy, simple and cheap, the shop’s authentically Chinese dumplings, based on a recipe handed down by the Chinese ownerchef’s grandmother, are so good that they earned the place a mention in the 2017 Michelin Guide Seoul.

Seoul Station(Line 1, 4, Gyeongui Line, Airport Railroad Line)

Café Moon

Hoehyeon Stn.

Reasonable Kitchen HyunSangSo Bidulki House Very Street Kitchen

Seoul Stn. Seoul Stn. Stn. Seoul

Seoullo 7017 Seoul Stn.

Mallidong Market

Hyochang Park

Baik-Chang Theater

Oppa Egg Bread Waffle House

Goobok Mandu Sookmyung Women’s Univ. Stn.

영주

Land of Healing Yeongju soothes the soul with history, traditions and inspiration Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Exploring Seoul

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Buseoksa Temple is a masterpiece of Korean architecture and landscaping.

Museom Village is home to many historical homes.

Yeongju is a land of healing. From old Confucian academies where the spirit of Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scholars live on to serene Buddhist temples with majestic mountain vistas, the southwestern town at the foot of the Sobaeksan Mountains offers visitors many opportunities to relax, recharge and rejuvenate. With spectacular views and rich local traditions, the town exudes a restorative energy that salves the physical and psychological wounds of urban life. Though easy to access as a major railway hub, the city is still relatively under-appreciated as a travel destination, meaning

you can enjoy the bucolic charms in relative peace and tranquility.

The seonbi spirit The seonbi spirit is alive Yeongju. The virtuous scholars of Joseon (1392-1910), men who forsook prestigious and powerful positions in the royal bureaucracy to live quiet lives of integrity and academic pursuit, the seonbi were old Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart and soul. They were philosophers and poets who remained true to their convictions, often at great risk to their lives and property. Working for good,

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A flower blooms at Seonbichon Village.

Sosu Seowon was designed to inspire contemplation.

refusing to compromise with injustice, they could “look at the heavens without a bit of shame.” Blessed with high mountains, deep valleys and winding river, a landscape that lends itself to scholastic contemplation, Yeongju has produced many a seonbi over the centuries. There’s no more breathtaking evidence of this than Sosu Seowon, a historical Confucian academy hidden in a forest near the hamlet of Punggi. Punggi magistrate Ju Se-bong, himself a scholar of considerable renowned, founded the school in 1543 to pay tribute to the great academic

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Blessed with high mountains, deep valleys and winding river, a landscape that lends itself to scholastic contemplation, Yeongju has produced many a seonbi over the centuries.

and local son An Hyang (1243-1306), the man who brought neo-Confucian thought from China. Though

For centuries, a log foot bridge was the only way to get to Museom Village.

34 Buseoksa Temple looks out on the endless ridges of the Sobaeksan Mountains.

Exploring Seoul

Chewy noodles in tangy sauce, or jjolmyeon, is something of a local specialty.

private Confucian academies, or seowon, would become commonplace in Joseon, with many scholars establishing such schools throughout the countryside, Sosu Seowon was the progenitor of them all. Crucially, it was the first to receive a royal charter, with the court bestowing onto the school a signboard written by King Myeongjong himself. Like Korea’s other great seowon, Sosu Seowon enchants the visitor with an understated charm, its modest, rustic beauty an architectural expression of Confucian virtue. The cluster of wooden lecture halls and pavilions, surrounded by wooded hills and with a stream to its right, blends in harmoniously with its surroundings. Typical of seowon, which combined academic and spiritual functions, there’s also a memorial shrine to several great Confucian scholars, including An Hyang. The most beautiful spot, however, is the Chwihandae Pavilion, a small wooden gazebo hidden in the woods just across the stream near the entrance of the academy. Right next to Sosu Seowon is Seonbichon Village, a folk village of sorts where visitors can learn about and experience the seonbi tradition, with programs ranging from Korean calligraphy classes to traditional weddings and making rice cakes. Several historical homes, including both tile roofed aristocratic houses and thatched roof commoner dwellings, have been relocated to the village; some have been repurposed as guest

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houses. It’s a very pleasant spot in which to stroll and snap some photos.

Temple of the Floating Rock Of Korea’s countless Buddhist temples, Buseoksa Temple may be the most beautiful. Named for a large stone that seemingly floats next to the sancturary’s main hall, Buseoksa, or “Temple of the Floating Rock,” is a masterpiece of traditional architecture. Sitting high on the slopes of Mt. Bonghwangsan, the complex perched on a series of nine stone terraces, the temple makes masterful use of its surroundings, offering inspiring views of the mighty Sobaeksan Mountains, especially at sunset. To reach the main courtyard, visitors must climb nine flights of stone steps for a total of 108 steps. In Buddhism, nine and 108 are significant numbers, the first representing the nine degrees of rebirth before you can enter Nirvana, the second signifying the 108 defilements that torment the human condition. Accordingly, as you climb the steps, you are symbolically reborn, shedding defilements before you at last enter the temple’s main courtyard and, metaphorically, Nirvana. Uisang Daesa, one of the greatest monks of classical Korea, founded the temple in 676. The monastery is a virtual museum of religious architecture and art, home to no fewer than five National Treasures and many other important pieces of tangible heritage. Efforts are

Sosu Seowon’s Chwihandae Pavilion would have been a great place to compose poetry.

currently underway to register the temple on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The jewel in Buseoksa’s crown is its magnificent main hall, or Muryangsujeon. The current structure dates from 1376, making it one of only a handful of surviving wooden buildings from the Goryeo Kingdom. The hall, which enshrines the Amitabha Buddha at its west end, exudes a effortless elegance with its earthy tones and simple roof bracketing. Near Buseoksa is Mt. Sobaeksan and the eponymously named Sobaeksan National Park. Reaching a height of 1,439.5 meters, Mt. Sobaeksan is not an especially challenging hike, its main ridge gently undulating through a series of peaks topped by great fields of grass. It’s a long walk, though, especially if you walk the entire ridge, which can take you two days. With little tree cover, it can get quite windy as well. For something a bit more relaxing, try the National Forest Healing Center, a nationally operated spa surrounded by dense forests on the lower slopes of Mt. Sobaeksan. The center offers a variety of short-term

and long-term therapy programs designed to bring physical and psychological healing to the world-weary. It’s a very holistic experience, with pools, saunas, forest walks, gardens, meditation classes, healthy meals, rooms without televisions and more. See the website (http:// daslim.fowi.or.kr) for more details.

Island in a stream In the hamlet of Munsu-myeon, nestled on a remote oxbow where the Naeseongcheon and Yeongjucheon streams come together, is a picturesque village of 100 or so souls, mostly descendants of the Bannam Park and Yean Kim clans, who began settling the bend in the river in the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. Museom Village, the name of which translates as “Island in a Stream,” boasts many old Korean-style homes, including over a dozen historical homes from the late Joseon era. The peaceful community is like a smaller version of Hahoe Village, a Joseon-era oxbow village in the neighboring town of Andong that was added to

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A major railroad transportation junction, Yeonju has many reasonably priced hotels and motels. For something a bit more sophisticated, though, try the Goeheon Old House (T. 054-636-1755) or Ueom Old House (T. 054-637-1537), two historical mansions outside of town. You could also stay in Seonbichon Village or Museom Village. Museom Sikdang, in Museom Village, offers delightful spreads with broiled fish, cheonggukjang, rice and side dishes.

This old mill in downtown Yeongju testifies to the city’s modern history.

UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2010. For most of its history, Museom Village was an isolated place virtually unknown outside of Yeongju. This is changing, however, as television and Instagram conspire to put the community on the tourist map. Some homes are now guest houses, restaurants and cafés, and indeed, the village is one of the better places in Yeongju to stay. Museom Village’s biggest draw, by far, is its quaint single-lane log bridge, which snakes its way for 150 meters across the stream to link the village with the outside world. For over three centuries, this was the only way to get to the village. A concrete road bridge was added in 1979, but most visitors have a go at crossing the narrow foot bridge anyway. On a weekend, the foot bridge can get quite crowded. Early risers, though, are rewarded by a bridge that’s not only empty, but also blanketed in early morning mist.

Jjolmyeon, a bowl of chewy noodles served with a tangy sauce, is something of a local favorite. Try Jungang Bunsik or Nadeuri Bunsik in downtown Yeongju for this cheap dish. Trains to Yeongju depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station (travel time: 2 hours, 45 minutes). Alternatively, you can take a bus from Gangnam Express Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours, 40 minutes).

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Portrait of a Millennial Lady Artist Kim Hyun Jung is not your typical Korean artist behind a hanbok Written and photographed by Diana Park

Kim Hyun Jung is a breath of fresh air in the traditional Korean art scene. Few could picture a woman dressed in Korea’s traditional dress, or hanbok, eating junk food or riding a motorcycle. These incongruous scenes unfold day in and day out in Kim’s drawings. She humorously defies convention by placing women clad in hanbok in absurdly contemporary situations. These daring rebellions, far from offensive, are quite charming. The artist’s quirky, pop art-esque style brings a smile to the face of the viewer. A pop star in the Korean art scene, Kim breaks records wherever she exhibits her work while staying true to her 21st century femininity. Her 2014 solo exhibition at the Insa Art Center, “Feign Olympics,” drew over 24,000 people in just ten days, an attendance record for the venue. The following year, she was the youngest artist featured in a special exhibit of Korean paintings at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Korea. In 2016, she was invited by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York for a solo exhibition. Earlier this

year, she held another local exhibition, “Feign Amusement Park,” which drew over 67,000 people. Kim was recently selected by Forbes as one of its “30 under 30” in Asia. The magazine praised her as an artist who “defies convention with her Koreaninfluenced artwork.”

Birth of Naesoong series Even as a child, Kim was a traditional Korean artist in the making. “I’ve always loved the hanbok,” she says. “Since I was young, I’ve loved its vibrant colors and fabric, as well as its traditional accessories.” She has been drawing from a very young age, too. “I loved imitating my older sister,” she says. “She studied art as well. So naturally I started drawing when I was five, and went to art-focused middle and high schools.” Ultimately, she attended Seoul National University, majoring in Eastern painting. Her college years were foundational in forming her personal and artistic identity. “When I was 20, social relationships often left me

in despair,” she recalls. “I especially struggled with people’s rash assumptions about me.” This painful time of depression inspired her signature drawing series, “Naesoong,” which translates to “Feign.” Naesoong is a deceptive attitude: docile on the outside, but sly and cunning inside. She initially began the series to capture observations of people in her life who exhibited this behavior. As she drew, however, she realized that her observations reflected herself. Since then, she has drawn herself wearing the hanbok in a variety of modern life scenarios. The stereotypically ideal woman in hanbok is coy and docile. Not so in Kim’s drawings, however. The drawing “Feign: You Move Me,” for example, portrays a woman riding a McDonald’s delivery motorcycle with her skirt running up her knees. In “Feign: Oops,” a woman looks in distress at her ruined designer bag, stained by coffee from a spilt Starbucks cup. Unfortunately, she is eating instant noodles, and so cannot move the bag.

Interview

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Feign: Live Due to Form, Die Due to Form, painting with Korea traditional ink color and collage on traditional Asian paper, 2013 © Kim Hyun Jung © Lee Wan

Feign: You Move Me, painting with Korea traditional ink, color and collage on traditional Asian paper, 2013

Interview

“Artists should express the problems in society that people themselves are unable to express freely, despite being impacted by them.”

Likewise, notions of expectations and reality for Korean women are challenged through her work. “One of my motives for this series is to shake up the paradigm that we unconsciously consider unquestionable,” she says. “While the standards we evaluate and judge can provide stability, they can also destroy unique, individual qualities.” Despite the modern play on traditional imagery, Kim applies Eastern painting techniques to her drawings. She photographs her figure for reference, sketches it on traditional Korean paper, or hanji, and repeats the rigorous process of collaging paper and layering Korean traditional ink for vibrant results. Each piece requires around 10 hours per day for over a month. As Kim’s drawings are self-portraits, her inspiration naturally comes from her daily life. “My ideas come from my life experiences,” she says. “I realize that life is not a repetition of groundbreaking events. Rather, it’s a series of mundane occurrences that occasionally result in humorous episodes. I discover dynamic perspectives by observing differently and create through new approaches.”

A communicating artist Kim is also famous for her social media following. With over 19,000 followers

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on Instagram, she regularly posts about her art, life and upcoming events. Realizing the importance of communication early, she set herself up to be communicating artist, double majoring in business management. Her unconventional education stemmed from her interest in both the commercial and public aspects of art. “I saw a close relationship between business and art marketing,” she says. “I thought about how to minimize the perceived distance between the public and art, and realized finding humor in daily life and applying it to my work could be a solution. Studying business influenced my work in many ways.” During this time, she adopted the vision of communicating with the public through art. In addition to social media, Kim gives lectures and hosts workshops for corporations and educational institutions. She hopes to eventually start a genre called “social drawing,” in which artists and the public can talk about art through social media, even creating art together. This could be an opportunity to not only collaborate, but also for people to create their own artwork. Her active social media presence and offline interactions with the public stem from her artistic vision. “I want to become an artist that scratches people’s

itches,” she says. “Artists should express the problems in society that people themselves are unable to express freely, despite being impacted by them. I don’t want to become consumed by my own world, but continuously observe and communicate with the world around me.” Through her works, she also hopes to encourage aspiring artists, especially women, to dream. “In college, I thought about the limitations of the Korean art scene for young artists,” she says. “I envisioned an ideal society where aspiring artists could work freely without worrying about financial stability.” She recognized, though, the importance for people to take risks to see their dreams become a reality. “I’m still learning, but I realize that never trying out of fear of failure is something to be embarrassed about,” she says. “This moment will not return, and I want to encourage young people to work hard and take risks in the present.”

Homepage: www.kimhyunjung.kr Blog: blog.naver.com/artistjunga Facebook: www.facebook.com/artistjunga Instagram: www.instagram.com/hyunjung_artist

Seoul Stories is a monthly exploration of Seoul through the lives of its people. Written and photographed by Diana Park

Hyojung Jung Musical actress

Tell us about yourself. I’m an actress. My work is primarily in musicals, but I’ve also played in theater and independent films. I direct a project theatre group called the Romantic Theater. Besides my work, I enjoy playing cello, taking photos and martial art sunmudo. How did you discover your love for acting? In high school, I signed up for a poetry writing club. For one of our public presentations, I felt like plain reading was too boring so I made a performance out of it. The response was extremely positive. I got many compliments from my teachers and peers and felt like I found my life calling.

I then went on to pursue theater and film in college.

“Comrades: Almost a Love Story.”

How did The Romantic Theater come about? Last year, I met an owner of a guest house at Gwangju. He was organizing an event and wanted me to perform. I gathered a group of my actor colleagues and we decided to call the group the Romantic Theater.

You were also commissioned by the city? Earlier this year, our group was chosen for the theater section of the commission project for Seoul’s young artists. I think the judges liked our idea of touring Seoul’s 25 districts and performing in cultural spaces where we can closely interact with the audience.

Tell us about your group’s work. Since last December, we’ve been performing music drama readings called “Salon Projects” around Seoul. I love the salon scene and the gathering of artists and thinkers in France of the 17th and 18th centuries. We wanted to revive that tradition and created our unique performances bringing together literature and music. We incorporated some of our favorite works like French philosopher Roland Barthes’ essay “Camera Lucida” and Chinese director Peter Chan’s film

Your thoughts of Seoul? Seoul is romance. It’s a spectacle mixing the old and modern. It is full of cultural benefits and fuels my creativity. I especially enjoy the Gwanghwamun area with Jogyesa Temple, Kyobo Book Centre and many museums. I see how many office workers lead extremely tiring lives, so I’m thankful that I get to enjoy the city during the week as a freelancer. Recently though, I’ve been thinking about moving elsewhere and giving back all that I received here.

Seoul Stories

Sujeong Yeo Perfumer

Tell us about yourself. I run a home fragrance brand and teach workshops at Make Sense, a cultural space in Haebangchon with a café, art studio and fragrance showroom. I previously worked as a marketer for over 10 years in various fields like city branding, home décor buying and the entertainment industry. How did the home fragrance market evolve in Korea? I grew up seeing candles only in religious or ceremony settings, or as souvenirs from people who traveled abroad. In the early 2000s, boutique shops in Gangnam began selling American brand candles. The fragrance boom began with the introduction of candles in the

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mainstream home décor market. Around five years ago, the trend of niche perfumes coincided with novelty candles. Nowadays, people attained higher standards for fragrance but prefer budget-friendly DIY and handmade options. What sparked your love for fragrance? In 2003, I lived in the U.K. for a year, and I was inspired by how fragrance is well assimilated into the culture. I was always interested in the market but didn’t realize how it can easily become part of daily living. How did you start your brand? In 2015, I started making wax tablets and gifted them to people around me. I then received many purchase requests from strangers. I eventually left my marketing career to build the brand. I launched the online mall last year and collaborated with other creatives to open up the showroom this past May. Your thoughts on Seoul? My family

lived in Seoul for three generations in the Dongdaemun area. I never thought of being in any other place besides Seoul. To me, Seoul is culture. People say that there isn’t much to show visitors here. For that reason, everything is concentrated on its people. They acquire many interests and adapt quickly to survive in an overpopulated country What inspired your space? I met Make Sense’s café owner and artist at a drawing class I was attending. We all envisioned a space for our craft and decided to open one together. What do you envision for this space? Healing is a luxury in a culture where people work without resting to save vacation days. I hope that people can experience rest here through engaging all their senses. Through good coffee, fragrance and art, people can heal within Seoul and even “travel” without an airplane.

Yooyoung’s Oasis Cozy Sinchon hideaway is a perfect base from which to explore Seoul Written and photographed by Romain John

This column may have described Hongdae as a traveler’s haven, but the neighboring Sinchon neighborhood lends itself to travelers, too. You can think of Sinchon as Hongdae’s older sister. It has as many restaurants and cafés, it is bordered by two of Korea’s major universities, and it is a bit more mature than Hongdae. You will find all you need for dining, drinking, sightseeing and having fun. Conveniently located on Line 2, it is also a very good base from which to explore the city. Sinchon doesn’t sleep — there is always something happening, something to do any time of day or night. This is precisely where Yooyoung’s Oasis scores: it is situated a couple of blocks behind the main streets — in a little alleyway behind a school, in fact — guaranteeing the tranquility you seek after a long day.

Accommodation

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to relax on the terrace. Oasis offers a cool breeze you can enjoy while resting on the sofas at your disposal. Read a book, plan your next day or your next meal, or share a conversation on the terrace, in the calm ambience of the night while reminiscing the best moments of your day. Yooyoung, the host, has equipped her cozy Oasis with all you need during your stay. She knows what you need because she herself is an avid traveler. Ask her about her trips around the world, ask her about Chile or her favorite place in Italy she visited, and she will have stories to tell you. She describes herself as a travel essayist, a exercise in which she recounts her deep experiences in local cultures and landscapes. She knows what you may need, so she will be more than happy to share a meal in the area to show you a glimpse of the local Korean culture. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss this opportunity, as there is nothing like a good meal over which knowledge and experiences are shared to enrich your trip.

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31-2, Sinchon-ro 11-gil, Seodaemun-gu Contact info: Yooyoung Lee 010-8526-2866 yoing88@naver.com

Food as Play Chef Chanoh Manu Lee of Chanou combines art and culture to create food fit for the five senses. Written by Cynthia Yoo Photographs courtesy of Chanou

Chef Chanoh Lee’s bashful smile and soft voice belie his tall, broad physique. “Sorry, I talk about this too many times, and I don’t enjoy saying this but it’s my story.” His story of how he became a top chef began when he moved to Sydney, Australia to study sports marketing. Chef Lee began working part-time as a dishwasher and also roomed with a cook. His roommate had famed Chef Charlie Trotter’s cookbook Seafood and it mesmerized him. Born into an artistic family with a sculptor father and a designer mother, Chef Lee developed an artistic bent, and he fell in love with the exotic ingredients and colorful dishes featured in the book. Chef Lee then focused entirely on cooking, on French cuisine in particular. “It doesn’t matter what nationality you are. If you cook French food well, you get respect.” He was young and ambitious. “I was the only foreigner in that kitchen, the only Korean.” But Chef Lee worked hard, building expertise at highly-regarded restaurants in Sydney and became head-chef by the time he turned 25. After six years, he made the move to France. He became chef de partie of a two-starred Michelin restaurant and then received a head-chef offer at a new restaurant in the Netherlands. It gave him the freedom to create new dishes using Korean ingredients, and he helped put the restaurant into the Hague’s top 20 list. Chef Lee paid his dues during these tough eight years abroad and he doesn’t regret it. “It was an amazing experience. I couldn’t make it to where I am without it.” Nonetheless, it was time to return home, if only to complete his military service. Chef Lee used even his military stint to further his cooking studies. He worked as a cook for a general, and he developed over a hundred new recipes to broaden his repertoire.

Chanou 샤누 25, Seolleung-ro 152-gil, Gangnam-gu | 02-511-1005 | Instagram: @chanouseoul www.facebook.com/pages/샤누-Chanou/369344660111003

On being a celebrity chef Lauded in culinary circles as as a young creative chef, Chef Lee felt ready in 2015 to open his own restaurant, Manu Terrace. “I had no money, no experience, but we built it and it’s been successful.” Manu Terrace serves fine French dining in the main hall but there’s also a casual

Dining

Carpaccio langoustine

Mediterranean-style roasted paprika

space in the terrace that expresses Chef Lee’s lifestyle. It’s a charming open-air bar where folks can drop by and enjoy a glass of wine with tapas, over a light breeze and music. It was also this time when Chef Lee took an uncomfortable stint as a celebrity chef. He chuckles and sighs, “Sure, being a celeb chef means you can earn some money and customers. But the downside is that you’re going to lose your career. You have to be on TV all the time and there’s little time for your work. And yeah, people come but they’re not your target clients.” And the moniker of “top chef” was exhausting. “When it comes to a chef’s life, especially when you’ve reached the top, there’s a lot that I don’t enjoy. But it’s not something that you want to admit to. To be honest, cooking isn’t all that drives me anymore. It doesn’t really describe all I want to do.” It was time to make a change. Chef Lee got off the celebrity chef circuit and decided to open a new space where he could use what he learned from the past two years. At his new restaurant, Chanou, he put considerable time and effort into the design, artwork and floor-plan. “A restaurant is where you make and serve food and you give the diners a good time. It depends on the customers. But here at Chanou, I want to give people inspiration – as soon as they open the door.” Chanou is filled with color: from the brilliant blue and burnt orange velvet furnishings and the gilded brass accents to the artwork from Chef Lee and his friends found everywhere.

impromptu art-classes provided at Manu Terrace and Chanou. “Friends manage the classes, but they came to me because I have a reputation as a chef and artist. It’s a very good space to have a class.” That philosophy is also found in the food, not only in its presentation but also in its process. Chef Lee points to their signature carpaccio langoustine. “This langoustine dish came together after we all worked on it. The headchef came up with the recipe but everyone in the kitchen got involved in reworking it so that it represents our direction.” It’s a thing of beauty. A light lemon-butter sauce is the background, punctuated by a bright orange disc of carrot puree. Wedges of roasted corn sit on a bed of bright green pea puree and small clusters of green peas peek from under pieces of langoustine. “The dish represents Chanou style. It’s all about beautiful colors and abstraction. I hope we’re unique in this.” Chef Lee shares a series of photos he took on a recent trip to Greece. “I’m inspired by nature and by everyday moments you see in the sky, the trees, the sea,” he says as he flips over photos of clouds, grapes on a vine, wildflowers and well-worn foot paths. He and his kitchen crew developed a new menu based on his impressions of Greece. The dishes display strong colors and flavors. One dish looks as though someone painted thick red brush-strokes over a warm golden background. It’s as simple as a dish can be, with slices of roasted and peeled paprika over olive oil, sprinkled with salt and pepper. It’s as delicious as it is simple. “People are tired of fine dining. But we want to inspire people with culture and art. And a style that we’re really good at.”

Chanou Style The Chanou philosophy is based on building community and encouraging creativity, says Chef Lee. There are

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Gopchang, Daechang, Makchang Written by Cynthia Yoo Photographed by Romain John

Take your pick of Seoul’s tastiest beef innards and offals at these specialty restaurants below.

Yangmiock

This gopchang nopo has been serving some of the city’s best gopchang-gui or grilled beef intestines for 27 years at its Euljiro branch. The family-run operation is now into its second generation with the son, Tak Hyun Jin, heading a spanking new restaurant in Namdaemun. The three-storied restaurant is a sign of how this humble dish of beef intestines has turned into a prized delicacy catering to well-heeled foodies. The new Namdaemun

restaurant can serve up to 250 diners, and there are private dining rooms for special events. It’s also a good spot to take out-of-towners as there are staff who can communicate in English and Japanese. Yangmiock serves its gopchang Gyeongsangdo-style, seasoning it with a slightly sweet and spicy gochujang sauce. The well-balanced sauce makes the dish appealing even for first-timers. Its signature yang-gopchang or beef blanket tripe has no fat and boasts a chewy and crunchy texture, bursting with umami flavors. The trick lies in how it’s grilled, avoiding that overcooked rubbery taste. You can trust the folks at Yangmiok to grill their yang-gopchang, daechang, and gopchang perfectly at the table, each and every time. Don’t forget to finish your barbecue with either a gopchang-jeongol hotpot or a doenjangguk stew.

Gopchang is sometimes seen as an expensive dish for the older generation. Gopchangjo bucked that trend by carving out a new all-you-can-eat franchise popular with young people. But it was an accident of sorts. The all-you-can-eat concept was a temporary PR exercise when the shop first opened in Hongdae. But the long lines of customers were a sign

that the restaurant hit upon a great idea. So they kept it. And the rest is gopchang history. The gopchang is aged on site to make it more tender and tasty. The meat is grilled over charcoal but to keep costs reasonable, it’s pre-grilled in the main kitchen before being served. The allyou-can-eat menu includes: gopchang, daechang (large intestines), makchang (beef reed tripe), yeomtong (beef heart), fried rice, and stew. À la carte items are also available on the menu, but it’s the gopchang buffet that draws the long lines of diners. Another popular draw is the young and energetic vibe of the restaurant. The owner drew upon his memories of his family’s old wood-burning oven kitchen to create the restaurant’s nostalgic interior design.

양미옥 남대문점 Bukchangdong 북창동 9-1, Namdaemun-ro 5-gil, Jung-gu 02-565-8836

Gopchangjo 김덕후의 곱창조 Sangsudong 상수동 1/2Fl 51-9 Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu 070-7592-0590

Dining

Yamaya 야마야 Suhadoung 수하동 B1 Fl Ferrum Tower 5-gil Euljiro, Jung-gu 02-6353-8946 https://www.facebook.com/yamaya.seoul

Jungang Haejang 중앙해장 Daechidong 대치동 1Fl Yukin Bldg. 17, 86-gil Youngdong-daero, Gangnam-gu 02-558-7905

goku-miso (soybean sauce), or kabosuponzu (citrus sauce). The ago-dashi option is the most classic style and makes for a good introduction to the dish. The nabe is filled with fatty gopchang, thick slices of cabbage, burdock roots, chives, and tofu, all topped with a healthy sprinkling of red chilli pepper powder and garlic. Yamaya is the brainchild of its parent Fukuoka company that specializes in mentaiko, or pollack roe, so it would be a shame to fail to try their delicious pollack dishes. It takes 168 hours to prepare and age the mentaiko served here at Yamaya. The difficulty is in choosing among the wide array of dishes available: from the simple grilled karashi mentaiko or the mentaiko omelette, to the grilled chicken leg flavored with, you guessed it, mentaiko. Yamaya also serves great lunch specials popular with the office-worker crowd.

Opened over a year and a half ago, Jungang Haejang is a relative newcomer to the haejangguk scene, but it’s become a foodie favorite. The reason for that may be those popular chefs who come late night after work and post on social media. Another reason is that the restaurant is owned and managed by a Majang-dong livestock company, Jungang Chuksan, specializing

in hanwoo beef by-products. That’s more than evident from the rich beef-stock broth found in their haejang stews and hot pots. The restaurant’s popularity is found in what Koreans love in their stews: great quantity and quality of the meat. There are all manner of beef innards and offals from various intestines, tripe, organs and even seonji, clotted ox-blood. The various haejangguk meals range around 10,000 won but the gopchang jeongol or hot pot is about five times the price for a two-person serving. The gopchang jeongol is seasoned with a spicy gochujang-based sauce and is lovely to behold with its mountain of greens surrounded by various mushrooms, green onions and carrots. Udon noodles fill out the meal, but fried rice is also available upon request.

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Fukuoka, Japan, is a popular travel destination for Koreans these days and many come back with a hankering for the region’s motsunabe or hot pot with beef or pork tripe and offals. Yamaya Seoul is here to satisfy that most urgent craving and they do it with three broth options. Their Hakata-style motsunabe is available with broth made with either ago-dashi soy sauce (dried flying fish),

Ladies Manning the Bar Meet Seoul’s female bartenders and their bars Written by Marta Allina Photographed by Robert Michael Evans When you hear the word “bartender,” an image may come to mind of a smug, bearded gentleman, clad in an elegant suit, whirling a jigger and a shaker in his hands. Or if you’ve seen the movie Cocktail, perhaps it’s someone more like the disco-flaring Tom Cruise. Either way, it’s a dude. Despite it being over a century ago that Ada Coleman ran the famous Savoy Hotel bar (do try her “Hanky Panky”), the public’s subconscious has yet to register that that a whiskey sour may be just as good — or better — when crafted by feminine hands. In Seoul the story is the same. To be honest, we expected that those few girls seen manning bars would be parttimers, destined to leave once they secured a more stable job. But we were surprised to find that there are women in the industry managing the highest-end of bars, creating exquisite cocktail menus and assembling fascinating whisky collections. We talked with them about what it’s like to be a woman in Seoul’s bartender world.

Beaugrance 뷰그랑스 “It’s a tough job for a woman,” says Misun “Sky” Kim as she pours us another glass of cava. Her bar, Beaugrance, is a classy mixture of chic and cozy. As a specialist in wine and whiskies, she caters to the taste buds of the young female crowd from the surrounding universities. She points out that for girls in their 20s, it’s important to not just work and sleep but to also indulge in everyday pleasures of life: things as simple as a glass of wine with a friend. “We need it for our mental health,” she claims. Suyudong, located in Seoul’s northern reaches, may be far for some, but it’s worth a visit — if not just for the delicious wine-food-whisky pairings, then also for neighborhood’s vibrant atmosphere that may put Hongdae to shame. 27, Hancheon-ro 143-gil, Gangbuk-gu | 070-7607-9908 7 p.m.–3 a.m.

Nightlife

D.Still 디스틸 Well-hidden in Hongdae, D.Still was one of the first speakeasies to open before every other cocktail bar had a “secret” door installed. Once you’re inside, the bar’s wooden interior, blackboard with quotes of the day, and friendly crowd makes it feels as familiar as walking into your own living room. It employs an experienced team of mixologists managed by GaHee Shin, a multiple-titled bartender. “I used to be too embarrassed to tell my friends that I work as a bartender. The fear of the stereotype of women bartenders being ‘easy’ and the job having ‘additional services’ was too much to come clean.” This has changed, as can be seen in the fact that GaHee herself is a recognized figure not only in the bartender community but also on the F&B scene. She is one of those cocktail whizzes that can put together a wicked spirit combination to please the tastes of D.Still’s most discerning guests. “There have been awkward moments,” she admits, “but my team and the customers make it all worthwhile.” 10, Wausan-ro 15-gil, Mapo-gu | 02-337-7560 8 p.m.–2 a.m. (Closed on Sundays)

Some Kind of Bar 썸카인드오브바 “Women have more grace behind the bar,” says Hanna Jeong, the owner of Some Kind of Bar in southeastern Seoul. The bar combines the Hanna’s talents in interior design and floristry, creating an elegant-yet-comfortable space that tempts you to spend all day and night there. Newcomers can find illustrated descriptions of cocktails on the menu, while “old dogs” can ask the bartenders for their favorites off the menu. Dessert-like cocktails and liquors tap into a female audience’s tastes, making the bar a perfect place for a night hanging out with your girlfriends. “Other than the stereotypes, bar owners are reluctant to hire women because of the maternity leave issues.” Hanna says. “But as the society’s perception changes, I expect more girls to step behind the bar, because, really, we can do just as well as guys.” 1089, Cheonho-daero, Gangdong-gu | 02-478-4542 11 a.m.–2 a.m., 7 p.m.–2 a.m.

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A Guide to Camping Near Seoul Pitch your tent and get back in touch with nature Written by Emma Hall Photographed by Jarrod Hall

Camping in a secluded forest provides quiet shelter for a campsite.

So you have the weekend free, and the weather is gorgeous — it’s the perfect time for camping! While camping in Korea can pose certain challenges, great campsites can be found when you get creative. To find the best campsites, there are two main options. The first is to visit a designated public campsite, which will offer basic facilities like toilets, showers and a barbecue grill for a fee. While quiet and lovely off-season, these sites can get crowded, smelly and noisy during peak season months like September. The second option is wild camping: setting out for yourself in areas not specifically designated for tents. This month, we present the best of both options. Note: Camping in national parks is illegal (for good reason!), but you can quietly camp in many other wild areas as long as you are discreet and respectful. Although

you can’t have a campfire, a contained camp cooker or small barbecue is usually fine if you choose a safe and secluded spot.

Beach camping Along the peninsula’s many public beaches are a great place to camp and often excellent public campsites. Near pretty and quiet beaches along the East Coast, you can find plenty of commercial sites, while on the west coast, you can head to Muuido Island if you’re not too fussy about mud. Catch a train to Incheon, then hop on a bus or taxi to the ferry and you’re there! The island has a several paid sites. There’s also the option to wild camp along the coast in a quiet area. Some people even camp on Korea’s main beaches, as long as it’s past the busy summer swimming

Nightlife

Experience a beautiful sunset once you get out of Seoul, camping along the Hangang River near Yangsu-ri.

A beautiful valley near Daegu, camping along the bike path to Busan

For more tips about camping and other outdoor adventures, check out Emma and Jarrod’s blog at www.koreanrooftop.com. Camping along the Hangang River near Chuncheon

season. However, on popular beaches, you will most likely be asked to move on. Sokcho in the east offers some of the best beaches for camping. It’s easy to get there by intercity bus (make sure to book your ticket in advance for a weekend trip). From Sokcho terminal, the beach is just a five-minute walk. Simply walk a bit further up to find yourself a site.

Quiet forests While you shouldn’t try your luck somewhere as busy as Namsan, it is possible to camp in the city forest of Achasan. This writer has been there personally. Not wanting to brave insane Chuseok traffic, our family still really wanted to go camping and ended up hiking our local mountain to camp there. If you try it yourself, you may be woken up by early-morning hikers, but you’ll have beautiful views and peace and quiet in the evening. Note though that in early spring, forests can get extremely cold and damp overnight, so make sure to bring very warm sleeping bags.

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Along a river Some of the nicest camping spots we have seen were along rivers, found during our own cross-country bike tours with our young son. During one such trip, we found what seemed to be a derelict campsite along the Naerincheon River, an hour or so out of Seoul. The river was crystal clear and great for a swim before setting up the tent. All went well, but at 6 a.m. we were woken by a persistent visitor. Wondering what on earth she wanted, we grudgingly opened the tent door. She gave us hot, toasted chestnuts for breakfast and reminded us to clean up when we left. Not bad! As many a visitor have noticed, day camping along the Hangang River is also hugely popular when the weather warms up. When evening rolls around, it may seem easy to just go on camping straight through the night. Indeed, a fellow cross-country bike tourist that we know camped along the Hangang River during his trip with no problems — but the key is definitely discretion.

Seoul Stores with More ‘One-stop shops’ give you more than just a shopping experience Written by Kate Carter Hickey Instagram: @torontoseoulcialite Seoul is well known for its plethora of quirky animal cafés, but these days “one-stop shops” are making waves in locales that actually have some style. Seoul’s dog, cat, raccoon, sheep and Hello Kitty cafés may have offered novelty Instagram opportunities, but were not necessarily known for serving up much in the way of flavor. “One-stop shops,” however, offer everything you’d find in a fashionable clothing, accessory, or cosmetics store, but with an added twist. Whether it be an adjacent café, restaurant or art exhibition, these shops are the perfect solution for those days when a simple shopping spree is just not enough. While these stylish cross-over stores are popping up all over Korea, they are best visited in the capital. Seoul’s retailer game is strong. Ditch the meerkats and venture through Myeong-dong, Hannam-dong and Garosu-gil for our first picks in this fantastic new trend. MYEONGDONG

Style Nanda Pink Hotel & Pink Pool Café Style Nanda’s new flagship store is called the “Pink Hotel.” Eccentrically reminiscent of Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel, each floor is styled like a different part of an actual hotel. This multi-level store has it all – and for a good price. While clothing tends to be “free size,” there are a variety of sizing options for jeans and shoes. Accessories and make-up are plentiful, with Style Nanda’s 3CE line of cosmetics located on the first and second floors. The store designers have missed no details in this pink, gold, luxurious location, from the artistic hotel key display in the lobby to the wacky, tiled vibe of the coffee shop. The Pink Pool Café offers an extensive menu of espresso-based beverages, hot-chocolates, milkshakes, fresh fruit and vegetable juices, ades and teas, as well as a signature collection of slushies topped with colorful cotton candy.

Innisfree & Green Café Beyond the massive ground floor of natural beauty products from “the Hawaii of Korea,” Jeju Island, you’ll find the second and third floor of this impressive store dedicated to the Green Café. Lush, green shrubbery adorns the walls and tables, while the combination of green tones and wooden furniture makes one feel like they’re dining in a forest, rather than one of the most saturated parts of the city. Go for the sheet masks, stay for the healthy eats. The Green Café offers natural juices and layered salads as well as sweet Jeju treats like green tea bingsu (and tiramisu) and volcanic rock bread. Bonus(es): The store also boasts a Virtual Reality Experience, and the fourth floor is a handy space for travelers to leave luggage for the day. If you need a break from flashing lights, beckoning retailers and greasy street food, this is the place to go.

37-8, Myeongdong 8-gil, Jung-gu | 02-752-4546 Monday–Sunday ,11 a.m.–11 p.m.

13, Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu | 02-776-0117 Monday–Sunday, 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

Shopping

GAROSUGIL

Gentle Monster The Gentle Monster store in Garosugil (alongside the ones also in Gangnam, Bukchon, Busan and Daegu) is like its very own art gallery. Each location of the sunglasses shop, known for its quirky and colorful styles in metallic and acetate, has its own artistic concept. Whether or not you’re not in the market for a pair of designer sunnies (styles vary in price but average around KRW 250,000), the shops themselves are works of art and well worth a visit. Snap a selfie with curved wooden walls and dynamic, modern sculptures supporting the accessory styles.

Skinfood & Skinfood Café While Skinfood may sound like something straight out of “Hannibal,” the brand actually offers a delightful selection of plush cosmetics and skincare, with store interiors themed along seasonal scents. Skinfood brands itself as “the first cosmetic brand to root itself in food.” This store-cum-café offers a place to shop for skincare, alongside a coffee shop well aligned with the brand vision. The café is also a surprisingly more affordable alternative to many of the surrounding eateries in the glitzy Garosugil neighborhood. What’s more – the food is good! Think tons of avocado and real red velvet cake.

23, Apgujeong-ro 10-gil, Gangnam-gu, 070-5080-0196 | Monday–Sunday, 12 p.m.–9 p.m.

37 Apgujeong-ro 12-gil, Gangnam-gu 070-8668-4191 | Monday–Sunday, 11a.m.–10 p.m.

HANNAMDONG Theory Theory is American brand of men’s and women’s sophisticated styles. Seoul now joins Paris, London, Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong with its own pop up Theory shop in Hannam-dong. Styled as a giant shipping container, the shop itself offers a variety of basic, tailored pieces for the urban professional. As simple as their apparel, the location also offers a peaceful garden café. Enjoy your java on their AstroTurf in the back-yard where, if you’re lucky, you may also catch a movie showing. As the brand states, “We’re popping up in Seoul: Visit our new concept store to shop the latest collection and chill out with a cup of coffee on our outdoor patio.” 255, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu 02-544-0065 | Monday–Sunday, 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

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Cinema

Multiplex Nation Korea’s multiplexes embrace different theatrical formats Written by Jason Bechervaise Photos courtesy of Warner Bros. Korea

When one walks into a multiplex in Korea today, it is easy to forget how far the local film industry has come in a relatively short space of time, together with how motion pictures here are exhibited. Koreans now see on average four films per year, more than most other countries. Korea has become a major film market in Asia, the sixth largest in the world. This is in part due to the fact that there are so many screens in Seoul and across the country.

Multiplexes dominate movie exhibition sector At the end of 2016, there were 2,575 screens in Korea, while in 2004 there were 1,451 screens, marking an increase of 77.5 percent in just twelve years. In terms of theaters, at the end of last year there were 417 theaters, while in 2004 there were 302, underscoring how the multiplexes with a large number of screens are dominating the market. It was in the late 1990s when CGV and Lotte Cinemas were born, while in 2000, Megabox was launched. These three chains continue to dominate the film exhibition market with more than 90 percent of all box office sales. This, of course, is also a problem illustrated by the banning of Bong Joon-ho’s “Okja” from these multiplexes. It was screened

in independent cinemas, where it has still managed to accrue a very impressive 317,000 admissions. The release of Ryoo Seung-wan’s “The Battleship Island” also caused controversy, having opened on 80 percent of all the screens in the country in July. There are certainly regulations that need to be enforced, this writer would argue, to ensure fairer competition in the film exhibition sector and wider film industry. But I do think it is worth highlighting how audiences in Korea are spoilt for choice in terms of the different formats they can watch films on in an era where streaming sites like Netflix are providing platforms to watch films at home.

World’s biggest multiplex IMAX opens in Seoul In July, seemingly to coincide with the release of Christopher Nolan’s “Dunkirk,” the world’s biggest multiplex IMAX screen was opened in the newly renovated CGV in Yongsan, measuring 31 meters wide and 22.4 meters high. The screen is equipped with the laser IMAX projector, meaning it presents the picture twice as clearly and 50 percent brighter. Tickets for “Dunkirk” in this format remain the hottest tickets in town. The cinema also includes screens that

combines Screen X technology, where the film is also projected on the walls to either side of the screen, and 4DX multisensory moving chairs.

World’s first projector-less screen unveiled in Jamsil The world’s first High Dynamic Range (HDR), LED cinema screen, a projectorless screen was unveiled at the Lotte World Tower in July. It is essentially a giant TV screen, but with projection at its peak to be the equivalent of ten times a normal projection lamp, the picture quality is extremely crisp. The multiplex also includes a 34-meter-wide screen, which entered the Guinness Book of World Records in 2014 for being the world’s largest screen. Dolby Atmos In terms of high quality sound, audiences can have the option to go to Dolby Atmos-fitted screens in Seoul and further afield. Dolby Atmos takes surround sound to a different level, making it more immersive. The sound system has also been fitted to the Myung Films Art Center in Paju, which has been screening “Okja” in 4K projection, twice the resolution as the standard 2K, and is one of the best cinemas in the country to see the film.

Arts & Entertainment

New Trend: Celebrities’ Families Family variety shows get ratings, but depictions of the lifestyles of the rich and famous may be depressing viewers Written by Lee Jungjin

Over the years, many Korean TV shows focus on celebrities’ families. The trend started with their kids. Celebrity dads went camping with their kids or took care of their children all by themselves, realizing how hard childcare was. Now, the “family variety show” trend has produced a series of mutations. First, celebrities’ teenage or adult kids appear on some shows, sometimes their parents step up to the plate, or celebrities’ wives seek freedom from their daily routines. And the family variety shows get good ratings. “Same Bed, Different Dreams,” SBS’s Monday night show that follows famous couples, is the most popular TV show in its time slot. “My Ugly Ducklings” appeals to many mothers who are curious about how their adult children are like when they are not around, as the show focuses on four mothers watching how their celebrity sons live their lives. In fact, the family variety shows

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attract people as they satisfy the public’s desire to know about stars. Unlike paparazzi who are notorious for privacy invasion, these programs serve as a legal and ethical window into celebrities’ lives, each with some relatable messages like “fathers should take more responsibility at home,” or “wives also need some space.” The problem is, however, those shows might make people less happy with themselves, in a very subtle way. For years, many Korean viewers have been showered with TV dramas in which a rich man falls in love with a poor girl, and they started to raise their voice against the “Cinderella” storyline — which means the audiences now know that it is only a fantasy. When it comes to the family variety shows, however, viewers have come to learn that there are actual people who are wealthy enough to live in big houses with a spectacular view of the Hangang River, while many hard-working Koreans have a hard

time getting a home of their own on the outskirts of Seoul. It might then be only natural that viewers compare themselves with those celebrities while watching the shows. As several studies have pointed out that Facebook might make its users unhappy as it allows them to learn all the achievements of others, the family variety shows might be doing the same thing as many social networking sites — depressing viewers by showing the life of celebrities and their families. Some viewers rightfully get upset and choose to turn away from the family variety shows. “I don’t watch those shows because I don’t want to feel like I’m not a good enough mother for my kids,” said Kim Min-young, a mother of two in her 40s. Apparently, producers need to come up with something that will truly entertain the viewers before they lose all of them.

Music

The (Re?)Rise of the Idol Band Guitar-playing idols aim to go mainstream Written by Kristina Manente

There are new idol groups debuting every month at a rather alarming rate. The harsh judgement of time will reveal which make it through a year and which will fade into obscurity before they’ve even had a chance to prove themselves. The K-pop world is too saturated, too cut-throat, and too dependent on trends that quickly change. However, in the constant stream of girl groups and boy groups, something is sweeping into the Korean music scene. What’s that breath of fresh air? Idol bands. CNBLUE and FTISLAND aren’t new, the latter is celebrating it’s tenth anniversary this year as a matter of fact,

DAY6

but these idol rock bands were never in the majority. Sure, they are relatively successful, and their sound definitely makes them stand out, yet it is the new crop of instrument-playing, singing entertainers that is starting to really create a change in Korean’s music scene so often obsessed with synchronized dancing. Bands are re-entering the popular consciousness here. Even Wonder Girls came back as a new-age retro band image before their disbandment earlier this year. In general, these idol bands have the four basic building blocks of any band: a vocalist, a drummer, a guitarist and a bassist. Occasionally there’s a keyboardist

or rapper. Just this year there have been a number of groups that have debuted with this formula. FNC Entertainment’s HONEYST and N.Flying are starting to attract some attention, but this trend isn’t limited to small entertainment companies, as JYP came out with DAY6 late last year. With groups such as KARD going with mixed-gender line-ups, it’s leaked over into the bands as well; South Club has a female keyboardist in their ranks, a welcomed addition and a trend we can only hope continues. The newest band to enter the market is IZ (pronounced like “eyes”), which debuted with Music K Entertainment at the end of August. They’re being marketed as a flower-boy rock band, blending that K-pop aesthetic with the band trend. And it’s working. Teenage girls are the biggest market, frankly, in the world. It is them that go to concerts, buy merchandise, create fan clubs and happily obsess and share anything and everything about their biases and favs. So it’s no surprise, and really a smart move, that IZ has spent the time before their debut playing gigs and mini-concerts at middle schools, high schools and universities around Korea. They already have lightsticks and their own YouTube show, a more and more common outlet that groups, especially those signed to smaller agencies, are employing to attract new fans and entertain existing ones. Only time will tell if the idol bands will truly take hold in Korea’s volatile mainstream music market, but we can only hope it does. The variety it will offer will be a wonderful addition, plus who doesn’t want to see some idols rock out for once?

Arts & Entertainment

Books

Adventures in Liminality Jeon Sungtae’s ‘Wolves’ is Korean literature in a non-Korean setting Written by Charles Montgomery

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Most of these stories have, as one of their motors, economic survival. In “The Magnolia,” the narrator talks of both his and the restaurant business. In “Wolves,” the narrator finds he “can feel my soul slowly falling apart,” as a Korean customer begins to wear him down. “Wolves” is recounted by multiple narrators, and one, “The Monk,” summarizes Jeon’s take on getting by in a liminal land, “I have realized that the dharma is a compromise...” As “Wolves” ends, the plot tightens and in increasingly short segments builds tension to nearly unbearable. The other stories are excellent. “Southern Plants” explores South Korean worry around defection. “Korean Soldier” neatly outlines the otherness and impotence a “foreigner” can feel in another country. The narrator of “The Second Waltz,” a Mongolian woman named Nyami, is hobbled by romanticized and controlling images of women that date back to Mongolia’s socialism. “Chinese Fireworks” presents a Korean pastor’s on-the-ground interaction with Mongolia’s modernization, as he accidentally becomes an important part in the economic life of local homeless children. “River Crossers” is a tragic defection story. “Has Anyone Seen My Shoes?” shows bawdy overdrinking, a kind of bigamy and two shoes. “Kids Need Money Too” is obviously autobiographical, and “Imitayshun” begins as an amusing story about the dance between a mother, principal, and foreign hagwon teacher. What begins in a humorous pas de trois resolves in issues of self-meaning, ethnic identification and, of course, work.

As Korean modern literature developed across the previous century it featured, often for very practical reasons, a strong tendency to focus on internal Korean issues. Even if a story was to stray across the ocean to Japan, or above the border to Mongolia, the journey was always taken in order to point out something related to internal Korean development and regional politics. In the last 25 years, moving from Kim In-Suk’s “The Long Road” (Australia) to Cho Chongnae’s “The Human Jungle” (China, but with a completely multicultural cast of characters), this horizon has expanded considerably. Characters of all sorts and in all places have begun to inhabit Korean fiction. The latest translated contribution to this expansion is Jeon Sungtae’s “Wolves,” a collection of ten short stories. “Wolves” centers on Mongolia, in the liminal area between city and steppe, modernity and anti-modernity, national and international, socialist and capitalist. In fact, six of the stories take place in Mongolia. Even more expansively, the well-portrayed characters include Koreans, Mongolians and other nationalities, most of whom struggle with issues of self-identity, meaning, and work. The first story is named “The Magnolia.” The Magnolia is a Korean restaurant in Ulaanbaatar, seemingly modeled on the famous chain of North Korean “Pyongyang” restaurants scattered across Asia. Here characters discuss life, philosophy, politics and occasionally even Korean literary figures. Drunken Korean tourists, high on alcohol or God, are introduced and dissected. In relatively few words, Jeon manages to portray entire sub-cultures.

Sora Kim-Russell does her typically excellent translation. Considering a school principal, a character reports, “All the employees said working there was easy as long as you could dodge her fastballs.” You can’t describe it much better than that, and all of the translation is literary and accessible. “Wolves” is intricately and carefully plotted. Jeon uses his microscope, zeroing in on very particular characters and events, to create an impressionistic and impressing overview of Koreans, Korean-Mongolian relations and even international trends, in a series of very well-constructed, well translated and entertaining stories.

Concerts, Festivals and More SIDANCE 2017 ARKO Arts Theater, Seoul Arts Center, Sogang University Mary Hall and elsewhere Oct. 9-29 KRW 20,000-70,000 www.sidance.org

The Seoul International Dance Festival (SIDance) is a regular international festival, hosted by the Seoul section of CID-UNESCO. SIDance aims to foster exchange between dancers and performances, organizing co-productions and tours and performing as a leading entity of cultural exchange. Moreover, by collaborating with international performance art festivals, such as Mexico’s Festival International Cervantino, France’s Festival Montpellier Dance and the Singapore Arts Festival, it is also taking the role of promoting the excellence of Korean performance art throughout the world. This year’s festival has two international sections, an International Collaboration section with three programs by 11 companies from seven nations, and an Official Invitation section with 16 programs by 17 companies from 13 countries. The domestic section features seven programs by 17 companies. The festival also includes a workshop and conversations with artists.

HONGKONG DESIGN CENTER CONFLUENCE•20+ SEOUL EXHIBITION

TREASURES THAT GERMAN KINGS LOVED

Thru Sept. 16 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza | Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Lines 2, 4, and 5), Exit 1 or 2 | Free | www.ddp.or.kr

Sep. 19-Nov. 26 | National Museum of Korea | Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line), Exit 2 | KRW 9,000 | T. 1688-0361

Confluence • 20+ is a multidisciplinary exhibition series that offers a perspective on Hong Kong’s creative ecologies. The exhibition made its debut at the internationally celebrated Milan Design Week in April 2017 and returned to Hong Kong in June 2017. This Seoul Edition continues to feature twenty collaborative and design research projects presented by Hong Kong’s design talent across disciplines.

“Treasures That German Kings Loved" spotlights the art, clothing and other cultural treasures of Dresden, the historical capital of the German state of Dresden. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Dresden was a major center of Baroque art. More than 140 historical items from the city, including military uniforms, statues, accessories and jewelry, will be on display.

Previews

KIAF 2017 ART SEOUL COEX Hall A and B Sep. 21-23 (11 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.) Sep. 24 (11 a.m. – 5 p.m.) KRW 15,000 T. 02-733-3706 Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), Exit 5 or 6 www.kiaf.org

The 16th edition of the Korea International Art Fair (KIAF) strives to bring together groundbreaking and thought-provoking artworks of the highest quality in order to realize its ideal of becoming the pre-eminent art platform of Korea. Taking part in this year’s fair are 167 galleries from 13 nations. This year’s fair also includes new Highlight and Solo Project sectors that feature carefully selected works along with artist conversations and party programs. By nurturing the continued growth of the Korean art market and serving as a conduit between Asia and the international scene, KIAF ART SEOUL has become a principal destination for art professionals and enthusiasts worldwide. In addition, by inviting key curators, collectors and other figures from across the world, KIAF ART SEOUL facilitates the introduction of vibrant new Korean art to the global art scene, thus revitalizing and spurring fresh interest in the arts.

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MMCA: DEOKSUGUNG OUTDOOR PROJECT Deoksugung Palace Sep. 1-Nov. 26 Free, but Deoksugung has a KRW 1,000 entry fee T. 02-2022-0600 City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1 or 2), Exit 1, 2 or 3

In 2012 in collaboration with the Cultural Heritage Administration, MMCA presented Deoksugung Project, which showcased contemporary works of art created on the basis of the rich heritage of Deoksugung Palace. The exhibition was greatly received in the art scene and by the general public. Now, casting new light on the spiritual and material value of Korea’s cultural heritage, Deoksugung Project 2017 centers on the idea of the coexistence of the past and the present. The project will install contemporary artworks of various forms, including media art, sculpture and installation art, to speak to the history and environment of Deoksugung Palace. By doing so, it aims to invigorate and enrich the old palace and broaden the communicative horizon between the cultural heritage of the past and the audiences of the present. In addition, the harmonious conjunction between contemporary art and the cultural heritage of the Korean palace aims to contribute to the enhancement of educational opportunities by developing viewers’ interest in the modern and contemporary history of Korea.

MOOMIN: ORIGINAL ARTWORKS EXHIBITION

SEOUL BIENNALE OF ARCHITECTURE AND URBANISM 2017 DDP

Sep. 2-Nov. 26 | Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center | Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429. | KRW 13,000 | T. 02-837-6611

Sep. 2-Nov. 5 | Donuimun Museum Village, Seun Sangga and elsewhere | KRW 9,000 | seoulbiennale.org

Korea’s first major exhibition of artwork related to the Moomins also celebrates a century of Finnish independence. Created by Finnish illustrator Tove Jansson, the Moomins — big, white anthropomorphic animals that resemble hippos — are the central characters in a series of popular books and comic strips beloved across the world. The Moomins have also starred in movies, plays, ballets and even operas. Some 350 original works of art are on display in this exhibit.

Employing architecture and urbanism as a medium, Seoul Biennale of Architecture and Urbanism (Seoul Biennale) encompasses a wide range of fields — from sociology, geography and economics to literature, art, theater and film — to engage in the present and future cities of the world. Seeking innovative design and policy alternatives, the Seoul Biennale actively collaborates with public, experts, artists, architects and policy makers.

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Expat Buzz SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: SWEET AUTUMN DELIGHT

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: NAMISEOM ISLAND & CHUNCHEON MULLEGIL CANOE Sep 1 Chuncheon, Gangwon-do You'll see totally different surroundings if you drive away for just two hours from Seoul. Let's go to the famous Nami Island and Chuncheon Mulle-gil for canoeing. KRW 71,500 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

RASKB: DANYANG: WORAKSAN NATIONAL PARK, GOSU CAVE & CHUNGJU LAKE Sep 2 Chungcheongbuk-do This adventure will take us southeast to North Chungcheong province, site of Gosu Cave and the beautiful Chungju Lake. KRW 72,000 for members, KRW 86,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel’s 41st floor Lobby Lounge Bar presents the sweet flavors of autumn with an autumn dessert buffet, “Sweet Autumn Delight,” from September 2 to November 26 on weekends and public holidays with two seating time slots. Enjoy various kinds of autumn-inspired desserts made fresh with autumn harvest fruits. Special autumn desserts prepared by the Sheraton pastry chef include fig pound train cake, macadamia pecan pie, lemon tart, apple and pear square pie, fig blueberry tart, Mont blanc with walnut, caramel apple mousse cake, orange angel chiffon, classic chai tea latte panna cotta, raspberry ripple, yuzu trifle, sweet potato autumn fool and chocolate nuts bites. Also, for refreshment and enjoyment there will be salmon, lemon and banana peanut butter sandwiches and four kinds of special pizza (mushroom, pork, Margherita, Gorgonzola), as well as tteokbokki, and a selection of fruits are served to refresh your palate. The non-alcoholic welcome cocktail “Gunabana,” a mix of sweet potato and banana, is offered, and the dessert buffet can be enjoyed with a choice of coffee, tea or non-alcoholic cocktail. “Sweet Autumn Delight” is available for two seatings. The first seating goes from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. and the second seating is from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. The promotion is available for Saturday, Sunday and any public holiday.

Period: September 2-November 26 (Weekends & Public Holidays) Hours: First seating 2 p.m. – 4 p.m. / Second seating 4:30 p.m. – 6:30 p.m. Price: KRW 32,000/person *Inclusive of tax Location: Lobby Lounge.Bar 41F Information and reservations: T. 02-2211-1740

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: FIREFLY MOUNTAIN RIVER CAMP TREAT,FIREFLY FESTIVAL MUJU, DEOKYUSAN NATIONAL PARK Sep 2-3 Muju, Jeollabuk-do This is the season for the fireflies lighting to find their mate - only seven-14 days and then they finish their lives. It's just magical to see them flying. KRW 65,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

2017 SEOUL FRIENDSHIP FAIR Sep 2-3 Seoul Square and elsewhere The 2017 Seoul Friendship Fair is Seoul’s largest and most multicultural fair. It will have more than sixty participating countries, including sister and friendship cities. The Fair will take place in Citizen’s Hall, Seoul Plaza, Mugyo-ro, and Cheonggye Square. In addition to unique performances from foreign countries, there will be various kinds of foods and time to experience world culture. Please spare some time to participate in this special event. www.seoulfriendshipfair.org

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: SEOUL CITY WALL & IHWA MURAL VILLAGE EVENING WALKING

TOUR Sep 3 Ihwa Mural Village, Seoul Why don't we take a stroll around Seoul City Wall and Ihwa Mural Village? When you know the stories behind the scene, the whole place will be seen differently. Take this walking tour and learn about Seoul's history. KRW 18,700 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: CHEONGGYECHEON STREAM AT NIGHT Sep 5 Cheonggyecheon Stream We will meet at the Exit 5 of City Hall Station and walk up to Gwangjang Market and have a chat over beer and makgeolli. Free www.meetup.com/globalexpats

SIWA: GILSANGSA TEMPLE AND KOREAN FURNITURE MUSEUM Sep 6 Gilsangsa Temple Both the Gilsangsa Temple and the Korean Furniture Museum are cultural treasures located in Seongbuk-dong. In the 1980s, Gilsangsa Temple was transformed from an upper class restaurant into a now well-known temple. The Korean Furniture Museum is a complex of 10 Hanoks. It gives a glimpse of traditional Korean life. Furniture made from persimmon, marble, oak, zelkova, bamboo and more are on display. KRW 20,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members siwapage.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: STUNNING INWANGSAN NIGHT HIKE Sep 7 Mt. Inwangsan Join the Seoul Hiking Nature Group for a meditative night hike up Seoul’s Mt. Inwangsan. The views alone make this hike worth it. KRW 5,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: HIKING TO SEUNGGASA IN BUKHANSAN Sep 7 Bukhansan National Park The temple is a one-hour hike away, up a well-maintained but steep road-trail. Seeing the temple involves climbing past the steep road, up several stone stairways. It is worth the exertion. The nearly five-meter Goryeo Dynasty sitting Buddha carving is spectacular, as

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are the views of Seoul from here. KRW 5,000 for members, KRW 15,000 for non-members siwapage.com

SIWA: K-ORIENTATION: KAKAOTAXI FOR BEGINNERS Sep 8 Itaewon Global Village Center In this orientation, we will focus on the iPhone app called KakaoTaxi. Although the app is in Korean, you will learn the basic functions: how to find your current location, put in a destination, submit your request and track the taxi’s movement in real time. Free, but exclusive for SIWA Members siwapage.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: JIRISAN NATIONAL PARK Sep 8-10 Jirisan National Park When you start hiking, you can see only the light of the stars and moon and can hear only the sound of the streams and the beautiful sounds of birds celebrating the dawn. Make it to the highest temple in Korea to watch a stunning sunrise over the 1,000-year old pagoda with the layers of mountains. KRW 85,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

RASKB: A WALK THROUGH LOWER SEOCHON: TONGUIDONG TO SAJIKDAN Sep 9 Seochon, Seoul In this excursion, we will explore part of the Seochon (West Village) neighborhood of Seoul that sits between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Mt. Inwangsan. Composed of 13 small administrative districts called "dongs," the neighborhood is a showcase of the layers of 20thcentury urban history. KRW 20,000 for members, KRW

25,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

SIWA: NAMSAN CITY WALL AND SUNGNYEMUN Sep 9 Mt. Namsan and Sungnyemun

YISS

YISS FUNFEST 2017 “CIRCUS”

Mr. H.K. Choi will climb with us up and over Namsan, which means “south mountain.” As we follow the old Seoul City wall, Mr. Choi will share about its history and restoration. KRW 5,000 for members, KRW 15,000 for non-members siwapage.com

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: JEONJU HANOK VILLAGE AND NAMBU MARKET TOUR Sep 10 Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do Enjoy every corner of the wellpreserved city of Jeonju, which is one of the best cities to experience traditional Korean culture. Indulge in delicious street foods at Jeonju Nambu Market and take a stroll through old streets with traditional houses at Jeonju Hanok Village. KRW 60,500 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

SIWA: DAY TRIP TO SOYANG DAM IN GANGWON-DO Sep 12 Gangwon-do Explore Chuncheong’s Soyang Dam and Reservoir and tour Cheongpyeong Temple on this day trip from Seoul. The Soyang Dam area combines beautiful vistas, a boat trip, hiking, a magnificent mountain panorama, a waterfall and the delicious Chuncheon spicy specialty, dakgalbi. KRW 25,000 for members, KRW 35,000 for non-members siwapage.com

RASKB: THE CRACKS

Mark your calendar for FunFest 2017 “Circus” on Friday, September 22 from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. at YISS. Come with your family and friends to enjoy exciting carnival games, various activities, inflatable play areas, delicious food and drinks, and more! Event proceeds will be used to support student enrichment programs.

Date: Friday, September 22, 2017 Time: 4 p.m. – 7 p.m. Location: Yongsan International School of Seoul Address: 285 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / Near Hangangjin Station (Line 6), Exit 1 On-campus parking is not available. Please use public transportation or park off-campus. For more information about FunFest, visit www.yisspto.org. For more information about YISS, visit www.yisseoul.org.

“Brighten your Smile, Brighten your Life” International Prosthodontics & Implants Dental Clinic.

CERECTM is a cutting edge CAD/

CAM system for providing all-ceramic restorations in a single visit. Patients receive custom, hand-crafted inlays, veneers, crowns & bridges in our clinic.

Cerec Doctor : One-visit IP&I is a name you can trust.

Dr. Paik, Sung ki

dentistry. Over 6,000 restorations since 2005. Korea’s leading Cerec specialist. Serving our patients with customized, doctor’s hand-crafted restorations.

DDS, MSD, Ph. D Member of American Prosthodontic Society

Magazine Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite #306, 2gil 7 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-140 KOREA Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr

SHERATON GRAND INCHEON HOTEL

SHERATON GRAND INCHEON HOTEL: LETTER OF THE FALL PACKAGE

IN THE ALLIANCE: THE SOVIET UNION AND NORTH KOREA IN 19551960 Sep 12 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace Professor Andrei Lankov looks at the complex and dramatic history of relations between the Soviet Union and North Korea following the Korean War. Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

BASS: WALKIE TALKIE UNMYEONSAN Sep 13 Mt. Umyeonsan This trail up Mt Umyeonsan takes us back on the Seoul Trail and is an opportunity to collect some more stamps (map and booklet available from City Hall). The trail passes close to Seoul Arts Center before continuing to Yangjae Citizen's Forest and is on gentle slopes through woodland. Please bring water and a snack. Hiking books advisable. For further information contact Stephanie at 010-49126755. Free for members, KRW 5,000 for non-members www.britishseoul.com

To celebrate the cooler weather, the Sheraton Grand Incheon Hotel presents its “Letter in Autumn Package” for the full month of September. The package consists of a one night stay in the Deluxe City View Room, along with a warm, filling breakfast at the signature buffet restaurant FEAST for two adults and one child. You also get a set of color pens and a letter. Complimentary access to the Sheraton fitness center and the indoor swimming pool will provide an opportunity for refreshment. The provided letter, decorated with various color pens, will be delivered to your loved ones by putting it in the “Red Post Box,” designed by artist Song Jinsoo, in the lobby. The price for the package starts from KRW 180,000 not including service charge and V.A.T. For more information, call 032-835-1004.

SIWA AND NORDIC CLUB SEOUL: KOREAN ANTIQUE MARKET DAPSIMNI Sep 14 Dapsimni Antique Shopping Complex If you want to splurge or bargain hunt, this is a good place to start. An area of 150 shops awaits at Dapsimni Antique Shopping Complex. Our tour guide, Yvonne Stehle, is a trinket hunting expert. She will probably find things for you that you weren’t even looking for. KRW 15,000 (SIWA and Nordic Club Members only) siwapage.com

SIWA: TREASURES OF JUNG-GU, THE HISTORIC DOWNTOWN CENTER Sep 15 Jung-gu, Seoul This tour will cover the most interesting historic sites found right in the middle of old Seoul, often overlooked by expat-residents. KRW 15,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members siwapage.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: SEORAKSAN NATIONAL PARK Sep 15-17 Seoraksan National Park September, when it's cool in the morning like fall and dry and warm in the daytime, is the perfect time to hike the summit of Seoraksan and the amazing Dinosaur Ridge. KRW 67,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

RASKB: A HISTORICAL WALK THROUGH BUAM-DONG Sep 16 Buam-dong This little adventure will take us to several historic sites in the Buamdong area, exploring the area's rich history, ranging over seven centuries. KRW 20,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

BASS: WALKIE TALKIE ACHASAN Sep 20 Mt. Achasan One of Stephanie's (our Walkie Talkie guide) favourite walks on the Seoul Trail with the chance to collect some more stamps (maps and booklets available from City Hall). This popular route over Mt Youngmasan and Mt Achasan provides great views on the way up and along the ridge looking out over the Han river towards Namsan

Expat Buzz

and Downtown Seoul before finishing at Mangu station. There are some steep sections on the trail and the path can be slippery at times so hiking boots are advisable. Please bring water and a snack. For more information contact Stephanie at 010-4912-6755. Free for members, KRW 5,000 for non-members www.britishseoul.com

RASKB: SEONUNSA TEMPLE AND AN ONGGI POTTER Sep 23 Seonunsa Temple, Jeollabuk-do We will visit an ancient temple, Seonunsa, in North Jeolla Province. In springtime, Seonunsa is celebrated for the flowering of the forest of native Korean camellias standing just behind it. In September, a special festival celebrates the blossoming of another flower, the Lycoris radiata, or red spider lily. KRW 69,000 for members, KRW 82,800 for non-members www.raskb.com

AWC: SEODAEMUN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Sep 23 Seodaemun Museum of Natural History Get your fill of dinosaurs, rocks, planets and plants. Visit the Seodaemun Museum of Natural History with the AWC. The museum is great if the weather is still hot and humid. KRW 2,000-6,000 awckorea.com

RASKB: ANTIAMERICANISM IN CONTEMPORARY SOUTH KOREA Sep 26 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace David Straub discusses the wave of anti-Americanism that swept

KOREAN BUZZ WORD

MESSENGER PRISON 메신저 감옥 Information technology is making more people feel at work, even when they are not Written by Diana Park

Messenger gamok, or “messenger prison,” is a term from Korean office culture that refers to the stress-inducing phenomenon of excessive messages sent during and after work hours. Kakao Messenger is an ubiquitous communication app and the primary mode of communication in many Korean offices. But its work-related usage has gone overboard. Online employment portal Saramin asked 1,245 employees whether they receive work-related messages on Kakao messenger during non-work hours. Seven out of ten answered yes. Respondents shared that they received messages after work hours, on weekends and even during vacation. Some 71 percent of these messages were from office managers, and other included coworkers, members from other departments and clients. One may argue that a worker has a right to be free from work duties outside of office hours. However, the pressure-heavy office culture in Korea makes workers feel obligated to answer off-duty messages. Over half of respondents (51 percent) said they couldn’t ignore the messages sent to them. The pressure doesn’t end on smartphone screens. An alarming number — 86 percent — responded that they took care of messages immediately, while 56.9 percent have actually returned to work after getting such messages. The chatting app allows users to more efficiently assign and carry out work assignments. Sadly, though, it has also made more workers feel like they are at work even when they’re not in the office. They might benefit from being able to rest outside of work, but the days when that was possible are an increasingly faded memory.

through South Korea between 1999 and 2002. The lecturer, at the time a senior official in the American embassy in Seoul charged with responding to the situation, has provided an American perspective on the phenomenon in his book Anti-Americanism in Democratizing South Korea, published by Stanford University's Shorenstein Asia-Pacific Research Center in 2015. Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

SIWA AND NORDIC CLUB SEOUL: SEOUL FOLK FLEA MARKET Sep 26 Seoul Folk Flea Market

visitors to enjoy shopping and eating all under one roof. KRW 5,000 (SIWA and Nordic Club Members only) siwapage.com

Are you hunting for second hand vintage goods or just want to see and feel the atmosphere? Then come with us! The market sells typical Korean items, everyday goods, souvenirs, traditional goods and traditional food, allowing

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: JEJU TRIP TO ENJOY THE LATE SUMMER Sep 28-30 Jeju

Seoul Expat Global Meetup Group's Harry Yoon will be going to Jejudo on Sep 28 for three days to enjoy the late summer, walking on the Olle Trail, swimming at the beaches and driving along the coastal road. If anyone can join him at Jeju Airport around 1:00 p.m. or at Gimpo airport at 11:00 a.m. on Sept. 28, you can join him for three days. KRW 99,000 (not including airfare) www.meetup.com/globalexpats

‘Hair in its Natural State’

Quno Hair

served as Art Director at London’s renowned Rush Salon and nominated by the Guardian for ‘Best Hairdresser’ EXPAT BUZZ Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm. Magic Straight & Treatment Highlight &Lowlight...etc English Spoken

Gangnam/ Apgujeong Branch 02-549-0335 www.qunohair.com www.hairandjoy.com

HAIR & JOY

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNIQLO (1F)

coco bruni About Me

NH Bank

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

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For more info, call Johnny 67

Phone : 02-363-4253 Mobile : 010-5586-0243

SEOUL

NETWORK

SHERATON GRAND INCHEON: YEOHYU PACKAGE FOR CHUSEOK CAFÉ TTEURAN Café Tteuran is the first Hanok teahouse in the historic Ikseon-dong area, an increasingly popular neighborhood of old Korean-style homes. It serves medicinal teas made from the best ingredients and excellent red bean porridge and patbingsu made with the finest Korean red beans. Be sure to check out its lovely courtyard garden. 166-76 Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu T. 02-745-7420, @café_innergarden (Instagram)

Sheraton Grand Incheon Hotel presents the Chuseok Yeohyu package, a chance to recharge after loads of holiday chores and housework. The package consists of a muscle relaxing spa at The Spa Hasta and complimentary warm breakfast at the signature buffet restaurant, FEAST. The package is available from September 30 to October 15 starting at KRW 261,000, service charge and V.A.T. not included. Free access to indoor swimming pool and the fitness center is included. For more information, call 032-835-1004.

GLOBAL DIASPORA MULTICULTURAL COACHING NETWORK IMPERIAL PALACE SEOUL HOTEL: DELMAR DATE PACKAGE The Delmar Date Package includes a one-night stay, desserts and tea for 2, Imperial Palace Seoul signature tea cup set, 20 Café Delmar discount voucher, and 20 signature tea tray set discount voucher. The Delmar Date Package is available from September 1 to November 30 starting from KRW 179,000 (exclusive of tax and service charges). T. 02-3440-8000.

We provide professional psychotherapy and coaching services to help and support personal growth and happiness. Our counselors and coaches are proficient in more than one language and have earned advanced professional degrees in various mental health fields. Counseling services include individual, couple, family, pre-marital, crisis intervention and group therapy and coaching services include life, business, cultural adaptation and parenting coaching. Appointments can be made by calling 070-4040-3081 or by e-mailing globaldiasporamn@gmail.com. 136, Worldcupbuk-ro, Mapo-gu, Shin-An Building, 6th floor | Website: www.globaldiaspora.or.kr

GANGNAM-UC RIVERSIDE (GNUCR): ENGLISH, KOREAN, CHINESE CLASSES Study English in the heart of Gangnam and earn University of California credit and transcripts! Or brush up on your Korean with GNUCR’s Korean classes from Seoul National University. If Chinese is more your thing, GNUCR’s got that, too. Try our new Enhancing Speaking Proficiency (ESP) class! It's offered every day from 9 a.m. to noon. www.gnucr.kr | Gangnam-gu Office Station

강남구청역, Exit 1 | info@gnucr.net | Kakao: @gnucr |

02-546-3260

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: HAPPY BIRTHDAY SHERATON PACKAGE Celebrate Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel’s 6th year anniversary and enjoy the special benefits and promotions. The “Happy Birthday Sheraton Package” is offered at a fixed room price at the Club room which includes Club Lounge benefits and access to the Sheraton Fitness, swimming pool and sauna. Reservation for “Happy Birthday Sheraton Package” is available from September 1 to September 16 and guests can stay in the hotel from September 1 to September 30. Prices begin from KRW 260,000 (exclusive of 10% VAT). T. 02-2211-2100.

Seoul Network

Same Great Taste and Aroma, Minus the Caffeine Starbucks Korea introduces decaffeinated beverages nationwide

Decaffeinated coffee has finally arrived at Starbucks Korea. On August 22, Starbucks Korea began offering decaffeinated espresso beverages at 1,060 shops around the country. Using decaffeinated beans, Starbucks offers all espresso shot-based beverages in decaffeinated form, including Americanos and lattes. Beverages to which you can add a shot, such as Frappuccinos, are also available decaffeinated. In Korea, coffee may be labeled as decaffeinated if 90 percent or more of its caffeine has been removed. With Starbucks’s decaffeinated coffee bean, 99 percent of the caffeine has been removed, making Starbucks’s decaffeinated coffee beverages perfect for customers who are pregnant,

nursing or just sensitive to caffeine. In accordance with Ministry of Food and Drug Safety standards, Starbucks uses a carbon dioxide process to decaffeinate its beans, removing the caffeine and the caffeine only. Since this decaffeination method requires a bigger investment than other methods, the price of the decaffeinated bean is a bit higher. The rich taste and aroma of the coffee, however, remain exactly the same as their caffeinated counterparts. For a mere KRW 300 more, you can enjoy a decaffeinated version of your favorite espresso-based beverage. “We’ve finally answered the many requests we’ve gotten from customers for decaffeinated beverages,” said Park Hyeonsuk, head of Starbucks Korea’s category

beverage team. “We will provide our customers with an even broader experience with beverages that maintain Starbucks’s rich flavor and aroma, despite removing the caffeine.”