Korea’s National Intangible Cultural Property No. 122 Yeon Deung Hoe
Lantern Parade
May 12(Sat)
7:00 ~ 9:30pm Along Jongno Street
(from Dongdaemun gate to Jogye-sa Temple)
Traditional Cultural Events May 13(Sun)
Noon ~ 7:00 pm Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple
2018
5.11 -
5.13
www.LLF.or.kr/eng
2018 FESTIVAL SCHEDULE WHAT
WHEN
WHERE
Exhibition of Traditional Lanterns
May 11 (Fri) ~ May 22 (Tue)
Jogye-sa, Bongeun-sa Temples / Cheonggye-cheon Stream
Eoulim Madang (Buddhist Cheer Rally)
May 12 (Sat) 4:30 ~ 6:00 pm
Dongguk University Stadium
Lantern Parade
May 12 (Sat) 7:00 ~ 9:30 pm
Jongno Street (Dongdaemun ~ Jogye-sa Temple)
Hoehyang Hanmadang (Post-Parade Celebration)
May 12 (Sat) 9:30 ~11:00 pm
Jonggak Intersection
Traditional Cultural Events
May 13 (Sun) Noon ~ 7:00 pm
Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple
Cultural Performances
May 13 (Sun) Noon ~ 6:00 pm
Performance Stage on the street in front of Jogye-sa Temple
Yeondeungnori (Final Celebration)
May 13 (Sun) 7:00 pm ~ 9:00 pm
Insa-dong ~ Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple
Buddha’s Birthday Dharma Ceremony & Lantern Lighting
May 22 (Tue) 10:00 am 7:00 pm
Jogye-sa Temple and all temples nationwide
Jeongdok Public Library 정독 도서관 It was April 9 of last year, a day when I just wanted to walk around without a care in the world. I went to a springtime hot spot, one well known to photographers but little known to the general public. Jeongdok Public Library is a place where you can heal without having to travel very far. I’m already looking forward to how beautiful the cherry blossoms will be this year. Jung In-hye began photography as a way to enjoy the moment, the here and now. Photography has since become a big part of her life. She wishes to share beautiful landscapes with as many people as possible and to give the world a better picture of Seoul. You can see her work on Instagram at @inhyeggo.
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The Lens
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EDITOR’S NOTE Publisher Kim Hyunggeun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Copy Editor Anna Bloom Designer Shin Eun-Ji Advertising & Sales/Producer & Coordinator Ha Gyungmin About the Cover Oil Tank Culture Park. Photographed by Hwang Sun-young Address 2nd fl., 43 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 03061, Korea / Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 / E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com / Website magazine.seoulselection.com / Registration No. 서울 라 09431 / Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publishers.
From the peak of Namsan Mountain to the Hangang River basin, Seoul is awash in color in spring. Cherry blossoms, forsythias, magnolias and azaleas lend their hues to the canvas of the city. Yet the collective palette that is Seoul would not be complete without other colors, too — the red of the palace eaves, the dark gray of the tile roofs, the silver of the Hangang River at midday. In this issue, we’ll explore Seoul’s chromatic identity, the tinges and tints, the pigments and shades that determine the city. Also in this issue, we’ll visit Oil Tank Culture Park, one of the city’s newest hot spots; wander Jeju’s southwestern coast; chat with model Han Hyun-min; try some tasty desserts and more.
Contents The Lens
Leisure
Jeongdok Public Library
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Brighten Up Your Night The Joys of Clay 44
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ADVERTISING To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email seoulad@seoulselection.com or hankinseoul@gmail.com
Feature
City of Color
Shopping
Hanbok, Modern and Accessible
10
Exploring Seoul
Culture Tanks
정기구독 안내
22
Travel
SUBSCRIPTION INFO
Southwestern Jeju
In Korea KRW 48,000 (for 12 months) KRW 30,000 (for 6 months)
Dining
Abroad USD 60 (for 12 months) USD 30 (for 6 months)
Arts & Culture
48
Previews
30
Concerts, Festivals and More Expat Buzz
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A Cuisine of Many Colors 38 Dreaming of Sugarplum Fairies 40
To subscribe to SEOUL magazine or inquire about overseas subscriptions, call (02) 734-9567 or email seoulad@seoulselection.com
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seoul foreign school I N S PI R I NG E XC E L L E NC E , B U I L DI NG C H A R A C T E R - S I NC E 1 9 1 2
At Seoul Foreign School we take our students and we create well-rounded, creative, passionate and kind young adults who make their mark in the world. August 2018 marks the opening of a brand new, state-of-the-art High School building at Seoul Foreign School. Our students continue to access the finest education in Seoul. A gift to our Students, a gift to Education and a gift to Korea. Contact us to hear the story of our new building.
Admissions now Open for 2018-19
Contact us at www.seoulforeign.org / admissions@seoulforeign.org
02-330-3100
City of Color Seoul’s official colors are more than just pretty. They tell the story of a nation and its capital. Written by Wooyoung Lee Photographed by Robert Koehler
Seoul Colors were introduced in 2009 as part of an effort by the city government to live up its reputation as a trend-forward capital of Asia. Instead of adding splashes of modern colors, the capital draws inspirations from its 600 years of history with a goal to create a balanced cityscape. The 10 signature Seoul Colors are not just a celebration of the past, but an effort to have the rapidly developed city find its link with rich history.
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Exploring Seoul
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The Jongchinbu was a ministry that handled the affairs of the royal family during Joseon (1392–1910). Originally located near Gyeongbokgung Palace, the historical building was moved to Jeongdok Public Library in Bukchon in 1981 but was returned to its original home in 2013. You can find it in the rear garden of the MMCA Seoul.
Dancheong Red (Seoul Red) How many of us have paid attention to the ornate paintings on the eaves of a royal palace or Buddhist temple? Frequently overlooked, the intricate paintings called dancheong are an indispensable part of traditional public architecture. In the spread of imageries in the five symbolic colors of blue, red, yellow, white and black, the strong, bright red lends a playfulness to the architecture. The crimson red serves both spiritual and functional purposes, warding off negative energy and preventing pests.
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Hangang Silver (Seoul White) After many frozen days during the unprecedented cold winter, the Hangang River regains its silver shimmer under the warm spring sun. Try riding along the banks of the river in the morning to get the full sight of the glint of sunlight off the river and take in the fresh spring smell. The pleasant scene also accompanies thousands of Seoulites crossing a total of 31 bridges over the river on their morning commute. The silvery white hue proves to be he Koreans’ all-time favorite color: statistics suggest white is the most preferred color for cars in the nation.
Seoul created today’s Hangang Park in the 1980s as part of the city’s drive to develop the Hangang River. Divided into 11 unique districts, the park runs the entire length of the Hangang River as it passes through Seoul. With walking trails, bike paths, gardens, sports fields and other leisure facilities, the park provides welcome respite to the city’s weary masses.
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Seoul Sky Blue (Seoul Blue) Over the course of years, a clear blue sky has become increasingly treasured by citizens who check air pollution levels as closely as a stock index. A cloudless day reveals the diverse beauties of the capital that go easily unnoticed on dusty days. Go up any mountain in the city to get a panoramic view of the bustling capital. One can easily get a view of distant Seoul landmarks such as the Lotte World Tower from an observatory in Bukhansan National Park.
Located just above Seochon’s Suseongdong Valley, Inwangsan Mountain’s Mumudae Observation Deck offers a panoramic view of downtown Seoul. You used to have to hike to the top of the mountain to get views like this. Not anymore.
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Founded in 1395, destroyed in the 16th century, rebuilt in the 19th century, almost completely dismantled in the early 20th century and the target of nearly constant restoration efforts ever since, Gyeongbokgung Palace is witness to over six centuries of drama. As you stroll around its gardens and courtyards, take some time to appreciate the beautiful floral designs on the west wall of Jagyeongjeon Hall, originally built in 1865 as the residence of Queen Dowager Hyoyu.
Kkotdam Hwangto (Seoul Orange) In a sea of monochrome vehicles, Seoul taxis in a warm orange-brown bring a splash of color. Seoul taxis had no signature color until this hue was introduced in 2009. The inspiration for this color can be found at the queen dowager’s residence in Gyeongbokgung Palace. The warm orange hue decorates its brick walls with floral tiles, or kkotdam, setting a feminine ambience in the masculine palace environment. Now the city hopes the color will settle as a symbolic color for taxis like New York’s yellow and London’s black cabs.
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Beautiful cloisters, or haenggak, line the main courtyard of Gyeongbokgung Palace. In the days of old, the haenggak functioned as passageways. Nowadays, they also present a stunning backdrop for photos.
Palace Brown (Seoul Brown) The rich brown hue of the wooden pillars and gates in Seoul’s royal palaces offers a calming feeling almost like walking in the woods. It strikes a chord with busy urbanites increasingly on the lookout to bring wooden furniture and products into their homes. The mountainous countryside has been a natural provider of wooden materials for palace construction from ancient times. Pine trees, known for resilience, have been popularly used to keep Korean architecture sustainable and durable throughout the centuries.
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Giwa Dark Gray (Seoul Dark Gray) What makes the utilitarian and rustic Hanok roof tiles, or giwa, dark gray? Following a usual process of earthenware making, the initial yellow-brown tiles are showered by smoke from burned pine trees. Through this process, roof tiles are born to offer complete protection against water and all weather conditions. It takes hours to discuss the minutiae of Hanok roof tiles, but take a look at a Hanok roof from any upper level to find a beauty in collective waves of patterns.
Stretching from Gyeongbokgung Palace in the west to Changdeokgung Palace in the east, Bukchon Hanok Village boasts Seoul’s largest collection of traditional tile roofed homes, or Hanok. To get a bird’s eye view of the neighborhood, try the Bukchon Observatory, a viewing platform on the top floor of an old brick apartment.
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Doldam Light Gray (Seoul Light Gray) A walk along the outer stone walls, or doldam, of the royal palaces can be a pleasantly tranquil experience in an otherwise bustling city. The light gray stone walls serves as a versatile backdrop for different groups of Seoul pedestrians. They make for a romantic spot for couples, Instagram-worthy spots for photo-savvy tourists, or a place of respite for hard-working and highly stressed Seoulites. Pick any royal palace and start exploring its outer circles The 1.1 km-long path along the outer wall of Deoksugung Palace is an especially popular walk, although myth has it that couples who complete the stroll will break up in the end.
The outer walls of Seoul’s royal palaces offer some of the city’s most pleasant walks, especially in spring and autumn. Though Deoksugung Palace’s promenade is the best known, the outer walls of Gyeongbokgung Palace make for a lovely stroll, too.
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Thick forests of pine trees blanket the slopes of Namsan Mountain. Beneath the dark canopy, a pine forest can inspire reverence and awe, the gnarled, scaly trunks and twisting, tangled limbs suggesting the surreal, the supernatural, that you aren’t alone.
Namsan Green (Seoul Green) Conifers are one of the most common tree species on Seoul’s landmark Namsan Mountain. The rich forest of evergreen pines keeps the city’s favorite leisure place looking green throughout the year. The trees have symbolized the mountain for far longer than N Seoul Tower. They even appear in the Korean national anthem. The mountain is also home to a collection of 80 different types of endemic Korean pine trees displayed in its wildflower garden, an outdoor arboretum showcasing different plant and flower species.
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Beautiful but hardy, ginkgo trees are the tough guys and girls of the arboreal world. Six ginkgo trees in Hiroshima survived the 1945 atomic bombing of the city, despite being just a kilometer or two from ground zero. They are still alive today. Moreover, fossils suggest the tree has remained largely unchanged for at least 200 million years.
Eunhaeng Yellow (Seoul Yellow) The ginkgo yellow beats the maple red during Seoul’s autumn as the former account for almost 40 percent of the city’s street trees. Widely blamed for the stink of their nuts, ginkgo trees, or eunhaeng, are incredibly hardy, withstanding urban air pollution and plant diseases. City authorities have attempted to replace female ginkgo trees, the sources of the unpleasant smell, with male trees. The common sight of older women picking ginkgo seeds in early fall, however, proves the firm status of female trees as a source for one of Koreans’ favorite snacks and dietary supplements.
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Sambe Beige (Seoul Beige) During Joseon (1392–1910), many commoners wore the understated color of white beige. Historical documents indicate that foreigners visiting Korea were often amazed at the sight of streets full of people wearing white from head to toe. The choice of fabrics and dyes reflected one’s social status. It was an economic choice for commoners to use natural threads sourced from hemp, ramie, cotton flowers and silkworms without having to dye and craft a daily uniform. The natural look eventually led to Koreans being called the “people of white.”
Most visitors know Gwangjang Market for its excellent street food. But the historical market, founded in 1905, is also an excellent place to find clothing materials, traditional Korean attire and vintage apparel. On the first floor of the market, you can find several shops specializing in hempen fabric, or sambe, including the fine Andongpo variety from Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
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Oil Tank Culture Park’s architecture reflects in a puddle after the rain.
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Exploring Seoul
문화비축기지
Culture Tanks Sangam-dong’s Oil Tank Culture Park has turned an abandoned industrial facility into a travel hot spot Written by Jennifer Chang Photographed by Dylan Goldby
A stroll through Sangam-dong’s Oil Tank Culture Park is a journey of the senses that can spark your imagination. As you move between the tanks, the remains of an abandoned oil storage facility, you take in the beauty of Maebongsan Mountain, the backdrop of the park, noticing how well the rusted tanks blend in with the trees and the grasses. Sometimes, it’s almost as if you’ve been transported to another part of the world far from the bustling metropolis of Seoul. Though Oil Tank Culture Park might be Sangam-dong’s latest draw, it’s not the only the reason to visit the district. Digital Media City offers opportunities to experience Korean entertainment companies and world-class digital media on an industrial scale. World Cup Park, meanwhile, awaits with a system of five sunbathed parks from which to choose. With a hint of gentrification and a few foodie-worthy restaurants popping up, Sangam-dong will surprise you with a range of dining options sure to satisfy everyone from locals to tourists.
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By reusing a historical site, Oil Tank Culture Park maintains continuity with the past.
Oil Tank Culture Park The concept of repurposing abandoned oil tanks into a cultural space for the public is one that has captivated the imagination of the urban planning communities around the world. The most successful example of this can be seen at the Tate Modern, London’s famous art gallery. Architects of the Herzog & de Meuron firm led the project of converting the subterranean oil tanks of the former Bankside power station in London into a cultural space dedicated to exhibiting live art. There’s also Tank Shanghai where Chinese art collector Qiao Zhibing is planning to open a combination art museum and recreation facility built from five empty oil tanks standing on the shores of the Huangpu River.
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Last of a series of urban renewal projects in Sangamdong, the transformation of the Mapo Oil Reserve Base into an Oil Tank Culture Park showcases the Seoul Metropolitan Government’s effort to revitalize the abandoned oil storage facility and return the land to the citizens. Located just across the west entrance of World Cup Stadium in Sangam-dong, Oil Tank Culture Park was originally an oil reserve facility constructed in 1976 in response to the oil crisis of 1973. Five underground storage tanks were placed at the foot of Maebongsan Mountain to store petroleum to prepare for emergency situations. When the World Cup Stadium was being constructed just across the road, it was classified as a hazardous facility and permanently shut down in 2000.
Exploring Seoul
As one of the first projects initiated by Mayor Park Won-soon after taking office, the Seoul Metropolitan Government led the renewal project with six rounds of public hearings and contests which allowed citizens, students and construction experts to participate and contribute ideas on how the space should be utilized. In 2013, a public consensus was reached that the site of the oil storage facility should be turned into an eco-friendly culture complex that can be the venue for various cultural activities including performances, exhibitions and festivals. The following year, an international design competition was held, and design plans were submitted by various architectural firms. “We were able to win the bid because of our dedication to respecting the existing topography of the land and taking the archaeological approach of carefully excavating the tanks from their surroundings,” said Baek Sang-jin, director of RoA Architects who submitted the winning design plan, “Petro: Reading the Story of the Site.” Construction of the site began in 2015 and the city government went to great lengths to reuse as much of the materials as possible from the existing five oil tanks, from interior and exterior walls to the retaining
The Oil Tank Culture Park hosts exhibits and other cultural events.
Tank Six contains, among other things, a café.
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Oil Tank Culture Park’s gritty textures have proven popular with the public.
walls. In line with the global trend towards revitalizing abandoned or underused spaces without demolishing the existing infrastructure, there was a conscious effort to preserve the history of the Mapo Oil Reserve facility. Among the five existing tanks, Tanks One and Two have seen the most transformation. Tank One has been turned into a multipurpose glass pavilion while Tank Two is an outdoor amphitheater perfect for performances when the weather warms up. Tanks Four and Five are mainly spaces for exhibitions and cultural events, and Tank Three has been left intact. Tank Six, which houses a café, conference rooms and administrative offices, is the only structure that was newly constructed using metal sheets from two existing tanks. It now functions as a community center that offers classes and a venue for hosting various cultural events. Visitors will soon be able to take curated tours of the Oil Tank Culture Park, and more information about future events is available on their Naver blog page (culturetank.blog.me) as well as their Facebook page.
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Digital Media City Considered the gateway to the northwestern region of Seoul, Sangam-dong district was part of a massive urban renewal project undertaken by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. Under the Sangam New Millennium City Development Plan (2000), the area was initially intended to be developed as a residential district to address housing shortages in the late 1990s, but plans for developing the greater Sangam-dong area were modified to build a sustainable town with futuristic residential complexes in the wake of the 2002 FIFA World Cup and the construction of World Cup Stadium. A key part of the New Millennium Town Development plan was Digital Media City (DMC), a state-of-the-art digital media entertainment cluster that was established with the goal of becoming the world’s leading producer of digital media content and the most sought-after business center in Northeast Asia. It is also home to many of Korea’s top broadcasting companies like MBC, SBS and JTBC. Attractions include the DMC Gallery,
Exploring Seoul
Digital Media Street, Digital Pavilion and the Korean Film Museum, the last one a must visit for Korean film fans. With an audio guide available in English, Japanese and Chinese, visitors can get a crash course in the history of Korean film. For those who might be in the mood for a flick, the Film Reference Library allows visitors to take out and watch a movie for free.
World Cup Park Along with the DMC, another important aspect of the Sangam New Millennium City Development Plan was the development of World Cup Park, a system of five parks built on the site of a former landfill. As a result of rapid urbanization and the economic and population growth in the 1970s, parts of Sangam-dong became massive landfills that housed much of Seoul’s municipal solid waste. As city officials realized that these landfills could no long handle the environmental damage done by the disposal of such vast amounts of waste, the Seoul Metropolitan Government launched a landfill recovery project to transform the landfill site into an eco-friendly park that promotes the harmonious
Futuristic art complements the futuristic DMC.
The DMC is home to many of Korea’s biggest media companies.
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Though beautiful today, Noeul Park was once a giant landfill.
coexistence of man and nature. It has since become a new landmark of Seoul that attracts over 10 million visitors annually and offers a wide range of special programs including performances and festivals. By far the most popular of the five parks, Haneul Park is well-known to locals and tourists alike because of the Seoul Silver Grass Festival that takes place every October when the grass, transplanted from Jeju, is in full bloom. For those who are more interested in a peaceful park with campgrounds, park golf, and a beautiful view of the Hangang River, Noeul Park is the place to head to. For camping and park golf, reservations are needed.
Signs of gentrification Sangam-dong is not exactly known as a foodie destination. However, if you happen to be hungry while in the area exploring, there is no shortage of restaurants and cafés. Perhaps not as noticeable as in areas like Hapjeong, Sangsu-dong, and Ikseon-dong, gentrification is slowly peeking its head into parts of Sangam-dong.
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Tucked away in the unassuming back alleys of the old part of Sangam-dong are a few restaurants worth noting. Bistro Ever (T. 02-303-7074), founded by partners Ji Joong-hyeok and Moon Hye-i n, is a multi-functioning bistro/café/bar that has become the “foodie spot” in town. With a background as a pastry chef, Moon started Ever Deli in Seochon. When she met Ji, they opened Bistro Ever in Sangam-dong. Freshly baked bread from Ever Deli is delivered each day to go deliciously with their seasonal menu of salads and pizzas. Most surprising is their huge list of domestic and imported bottled beers as well as their selection of world wines. Right next door is another noteworthy restaurant that specializes in Italian pastas. Trattoria Molto (T. 02-3031022) has received the Michelin symbol of “The Plate,” which means that you can expect quality food cooked with fresh ingredients. Owner-chef Oh Hui-seok is also a wine aficionado and he is preparing to open a wine shop just across from the restaurant, so it might just be worth your while to venture out to this part of town.
Exploring Seoul
Haneul Park transformed a mountain of garbage into one of the city’s most rejuvinating spots.
World Cup Stadium Station (Line 6)
Sangam-dong
Nature abounds in World Cup Park.
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제주
Green, Gold and Blue Southwestern Jeju dazzles with scenery, food and plenty of island charm Written and photographed by Robert Koehler
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Rapeseed fields shine golden beneath blue skies and Sanbangsan Mountain’s dome.
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Concrete hangers of Altteureu Airfield testify to Jeju’s tragic past.
Dusk descends over Chagwido Island.
It was late morning, and the sun still hung low enough in the sky to cast a warm hue over the rapeseed fields, the high-frequency light washing over the blanket of golden blossoms beneath the deep blue sky, intensifying the landscape like turning up the saturation on a high-def television set. Just beyond, its weathered basalt cliffs shining in the light, Sanbangsan Mountain stared down upon the fields like a giant sentinel, an old soldier battered, bruised but not beaten by millenia of battle against the elements. On any other day, there should have been crowds of tourists milling through the fields like ants through an ant farm, smartphones and tripods at the ready, all searching for the perfect angle to get the
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perfect selfie. This morning, however, there wasn’t a soul there — not for the first five minutes, at least — lending an extra layer of surreal tranquility to a majestic setting. Jeju is a land of much scenic splendor, and the southwest quadrant of the island is no exception to this, blessed as it is with beautiful seashores, lovely islands, dense forests, picturesque fields of flowers and barley, sprawling tea plantations and brilliant sunsets. What it lacks, relatively speaking anyway, is tourists. Compared to better-tread parts of the island, southwest Jeju is quiet, rustic, less gentrified. That’s not to say it’s empty — no place in Jeju is, and on a weekend, scenic spots sport the usual crowds of sightseers, hikers and photographers.
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Hallasan Mountain looming in the distance, hikers stroll along Songaksan Mountain.
What you won’t find, however, is the commercial hyperdevelopment seen elsewhere.
Beneath Sanbangsan Mountain For our purposes, southwest Jeju can be defined as stretching from the Yongmeori and Sagye coasts in the east to the volcanic tuft cone of Suwolbong Peak in the west. It’s a volcanic landscape shaped by the wind, water and, most importantly, the fire in the belly of Hallasan Mountain, the nearly 2,000-meter-high shield volcano that birthed the island itself. The Jeju Olle Trail (www.jejuolle.org), the island’s renowned network of coastal footpaths, connects most of the region’s scenic
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spots, namely along routes 10, 10-1, 11 and 12. The most important population center is the fishing port of Moseulpo, where you’ll find the biggest selection of restaurants and accommodation, not to mention the ferries to the islands of Gapado and Marado. The Yongmeori and Sagye coasts are volcanic seashores dominated by the awesome mass of Sanbangsan Mountain, the bell-shaped lava dome that defines the landscape of this part of Jeju. Likened by one enthusiastic Jeju Tourism Organization blogger to Arizona’s Grand Canyon, the Yongmeori Coast is a breathtaking system of lava cliffs that jut into the ocean like a dragon’s head — hence the name, which translates
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Gapado’s barley fields make for a picturesque walk.
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Exploring Seoul
A shop on Gapado offers crafts made with natural dyes.
as “Dragon’s Head.” While certainly worth exploring, weather conditions may keep you off the rocks. Much more accessible is the Sagye Coast, a long seashore stretching from the small town of Sagye in the east to Songaksan Mountain, a popular hiking destination, in the west. Here, the seashore alternates between sand and black volcanic rock. It’s especially beautiful at sunrise, when mist swathes Sanbangsan and Hallasan and the new sun bathes all in shades of red and violet. Flanked by blooming flowers, charming cafés and plenty of spectacular seaside views, the Sagye Coastal Road draws plenty of bicyclists and windshield tourists. In spring, fields of golden rapeseed blossoms blanket the lower slopes of Sanbangsan Mountain, especially around the town of Sagye. Hordes of photographers, young couples and families descend on the fields at this time, and for good reason — they’re stunningly beautiful. Pro tip: if you arrive early, you’ll not only avoid the crowds, but the warmer light will yield better photographs, too. Bring some small bills with you, though, as the fields are private property and owners typically charge you KRW 1,000 to enter.
attracts great crowds of hikers on the weekend. Indeed, the peak is the centerpiece of Route 10 of the Jeju Olle Trail. Also on the peak and in the cliffs below you’ll find old bunkers and artillery placements, built by Imperial Japan during their 35-year occupation of Korea. Korea’s Japanese colonizers militarized Jeju, especially towards the end of World War II, when they fortified the island to stop an anticipated onslaught by Allied forces on the Japanese home islands. No less than 69,000 Japanese troops were stationed on Jeju on Aug. 15, 1945, the day Tokyo surrendered. This at a time when there were just 200,000 people on the island. A poignant reminder of this history is Altteureu Airfield, a former Japanese naval air station near Songaksan Mountain. Though lettuce and potato fields have largely reclaimed the airfield, some facilities remain, most notably about 20 concrete hangers that incongruously dot the pastoral landscape like Enver Hoxha’s bunkers in Albania. Some of the hangers now contain works of art, a legacy of the Jeju Biennale 2017 arts festival.
Legacy of a tragic past At the west of the Sagye Coastal Road is Songaksan Mountain, a low volcanic cone on a small, windswept peninsula that thrusts into the sea. Surrounded by grassy fields and volcanic coastal cliffs and boasting inspiring views of Sanbangsan Mountain, Hallasan Mountain and the nearby islands of Gapado and Marado, the cone
Islands of barley and jjajangmyeon From the port of Unjin (a short walk from Moseulpo), ferries depart for Gapado and Marado, two nearby islands that are sometimes overlooked despite their abundant charm. Just 20 minutes away by ferry, Gapado is a small island covered in beautiful green fields of barley. In
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The day begins at Osulloc’s Seogwang-ri tea plantation.
spring, when the barley grows high, it can seem the entire island sways with the sea winds. A branch of the Jeju Olle Trail, Route 10-1, crisscrosses the island, taking you along stone wall-lined paths through the barley fields. So beautiful the scenery is that the island hosts the Gapado Barley Festival every spring. This year it is set for April 10–May 10. It takes about two hours to circuit the island, even at a leisurely pace. Some 40 minutes from the mainland by boat is Marado, a tiny island whose main claim to fame is being Korea’s southernmost piece of real estate. The island, home to about 50 people, boasts a couple of landmarks, most notably a tiny Catholic church whose design brings to mind the abalone, conch and other products offered by the surrounding seas. Oddly enough, the island has also become famous for its Chinese black bean noodles, or jjajangmyeon, served with seafood. You’ll find about 10 restaurants serving it, all warring with one another to win customers.
Jeju’s best sunsets? Suwolbong is a 77-meter peak surrounded by volcanic cliffs formed 18,000 years ago by a pyroclastic surge, a
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fluidized mass of gas and rock ejected during a volcanic eruption. The beautifully layered coastal cliffs are almost singularly well-preserved, making them of intense interest to volcanologists. To the general public, the cliffs provide a spectacular backdrop to coastal walks, especially at sunset, when the descending orb turns the sea crimson red. From Suwolbong, you can follow the cliffs all the way to Chagwi, a small fishing port that is also a wonderful spot to gaze upon the nearby Chagwido Islands. Jeju’s largest uninhabited islands, the islands are beloved by landscape photographers and local fishermen, albeit for different reasons. The tiny but charming Cafe Saudade offers not only lovely views of the islands, but fine lattes as well.
Fields of green If you’re willing to go inland, green tea giant Osulloc operates a plantation at Seogwang-ri, a town on the lower slopes of Hallasan Mountain and on the road linking Moseulpo and Jeju City. Unlike the terraced fields of Boseong, Jeju’s green tea fields are mostly flat, but they are no less beautiful, boasting as their backdrop
Travel
Moseulpo has a handful of reasonably priced hotels, and you’ll find the usual assortment of guest houses and pensions everywhere along the coast.
Try the seafood jjamppong at Moseulpo’s Hong Sung Bang.
Moseulpo is known for its seafood, especially yellowtail, or bangeo, and hairtail, or galchi. Moseulpo has a bit of the hip, too. Gla Gla Hawaii (T. 064-792-2737) does fish and chips and seafood boils. Just next door is Mendorong (T. 064-792-3727), a café that offers lovely handmade desserts, including apple pie à la mode. The trendy Chinese joint Hong Sung Bang (T. 064-794-9555) does a seafood jjamppong served with an entire crab. Flights to Jeju depart Seoul’s Gimpo Airport. Buses to Moseulpo depart Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal (travel time: about 1 hour, 30 minutes).
Jeju’s famous parasitic volcanic cones, or oreum, and the massive pyramid of Hallasan Mountain itself. Next to the plantation is the Osulloc Tea Museum (www.osulloc.com), a strikingly designed cultural space with galleries, a tea shop and, of course, a café where you can enjoy green tea and green tea ice cream. If you can, make a reservation for the Tea Stone, a stunning glass tea house where classes on the tea ceremony are given. Not far from Osulloc is Gotjawal Provincial Park. Gotjawal is a local term for the thick, mossy forests that grow on the volcanic bedrock of Hallasan Mountain’s middle slopes. Though similar forests can be found elsewhere on the volcano, this section is one of the most accessible. An observatory deck deep in the park gives you a view of the forest and surrounding landscape.
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A Cuisine of Many Colors Chef Kyung Won Jang of Michelin-starred Exquisine explores local seasonal flavors and colors Written by Jennifer Flinn Photographed by Romain John
Tucked away in a small space in Cheongdamdong, Exquisine immediately feels different from other fine dining establishments. There are only a few tables, a bar dominated by an indoor herb garden, a small but efficient open kitchen and no wait staff. Chef Kyung Won Jang and his small staff handle everything together, with the chefs bringing out each course and explaining all the elements, including the origins of ingredients of each dish, to lucky diners. The unusual serving concept, along with Chef Jang’s skills and dedication to sourcing unique indigenous Korean ingredients, have earned the restaurant plenty of accolades, including a Michelin star only a year after opening. “This isn’t a regular restaurant,” says Chef Jang. “I wanted to do something new, something that didn’t exist before. We use Korean ingredients and
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French techniques, but we’re Exquisine. Not Korean cuisine or French cuisine. That’s our concept.”
Freedom and freshness Chef Jang’s interest in cooking dates all the way back to his childhood, watching his mother cook: “When I saw my mom, she was always happy when she was cooking. I could feel her smile even when she had her back turned to me.” This manifested as an early desire to become a chef, but his own mother didn’t take his intended career seriously until he decided to go to culinary school. “I went to school first, because there was not much info on how to become a chef back then,” Jang reminisces. “I was young and had no info, so a friend told me to try the working holiday in Australia. I worked on a farm. They had milk cows, chickens, fruit
Dining | Chef Interview
trees. Everything they grew for themselves. I would milk the cow, then drink the milk for breakfast.” After returning from Australia, he finished school and headed to the United States and then later Toronto to work as a chef. His time at Toronto’s Yours Truly was especially important in helping him develop his style. “Their food inspired me a lot, with so much freedom on the plate. Before that I did very classic food, but at that restaurant they just made everything!” Returning to Korea, he found work again at a small restaurant in Samcheongdong, but the owner suddenly decided to close it down. Jang intended to just find another position, but other chefs encouraged him to take the opportunity to start his own restaurant. Nearly a year later, Jang opened Exquisine. His sous chef and cooks from his previous job waited the whole time so they could join him. “The first thing I considered was a small space so that I can see all the details with my own eyes,” Jang says. “The second thing was that I wanted it to be good for food culture.”
A happy food culture “I’m constantly thinking about what makes us different, what gives us our own color. We cut our herbs fresh, and they’re so much more aromatic because they’ve only been picked thirty minutes before. We use local vegetables and ingredients, and they are tastier than market vegetables because the farmers really care about the land and what they grow,” Jang explains. This commitment to Korean farming and foodways makes a real difference both in the flavors of the food and in future sustainability. Exquisine’s small garden provides many of the herbs
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they use. Other elements are sourced through a women’s farming cooperative (www.sistersgarden.org) that specializes in Korean heritage breeds, allowing Jang to create plates that tie the diners closer to the land, while offering new and intriguing flavors. Each vegetable, fruit, herb and protein has its own characteristics, which Jang highlights using techniques drawn from but not beholden to his classical education. His signature dish of a potato croquette topped with sea urchin butter relies on using two kinds of heritage potato varieties — one for a creamy interior, the other for a crispy exterior. A seasonal main of dry aged duck breast is accompanied by two differently flavored onions, allowing diners to really feel the impact of the produce. There’s nothing to disguise the original flavors, polished only by the chef’s technical abilities and creativity. Jang’s dedication to understanding the history and provenance of his ingredients, combined with his inventiveness, has helped make dining at Exquisine a unique experience. “We have no servers, so we chefs explain the food and where it comes from. If people know, they’ll find the farmers and seek it out. That’s why we explain ourselves. The farmers tell me about their food so I can tell the guests so the farmer can get bigger and make Korean food culture happy.”
Exquisine 6 Samseong-ro 140-gil, Gangnam-gu | 02-542-6921 @exquisine_seoul | www.facebook.com/exquisineseoul
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Dreaming of Sugarplum Fairies These delightful delicacies are bound to put some spring into your steps Written by Cynthia Yoo Photographed by Romain John
Little & Much Their slogan “little sweets, much flavour” perfectly sums it up. The elegant mousse cakes at Little & Much may be small in size but are packed with flavor. They’re a labor of love from Seung Ki Jung and Hwa Young Lee, a pâtissier couple whose friendship began in middle school. It took three years of planning for the couple to open their Hakdong dessert shop in 2014. The shop quickly won acclaim for their stunning mousse cakes that showcase the pair’s modern aesthetic. Not only the desserts but everything from the black and white packaging to the hand-folded paper lanterns show the pair’s attention to detail. Little & Much’s signature cake is the lovely “Blanc”
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(White Chocolate Dome). Inside the white chocolate mousse dome are layers of sweet and tart passion fruit curd, rich crème brûlée, and crispy feuilletine. A single dark red berry with a flower petal adorns the top of the white mousse dome, making it the most memorable (and Instagrammable) dessert. The other desserts on display are as colorful and dazzling to the eye, and rest assured, they’re as delicious as they look. In March, they opened a new brand, “A Lot,” with a new line of desserts and baked goods at the Amorepacific building near Sinyongsan Station. 49, Hakdong-ro 56-gil, Gangnam-gu | 02-545-1023 | @little_and_much | www.facebook.com
Dining | Dining Out
Mille Gâteaux Mille Gâteaux means “a thousand cakes” in French and owner-pâtissier Jewook Ko came up with the name as he made mille-feuille that he had enjoyed so much in Paris for his family back in Korea. “I want to introduce as many French cakes and desserts as possible to my customers here,” explained Ko. Only available from Friday to Sunday, his signature mille-feuille showcases layers of delicate but crispy pastry with vanilla crème mousseline, a very buttery vanilla custard cream. The mille-feuille is topped with tiny colorful macarons, adding another layer of color, flavor and decadence. Ko studied at the Cordon Bleu in Paris and earned his stripes at dessert brands like Pierre Hermé before returning home. His cosy dessert shop reflects his training by focusing on classic French pastries and desserts like the sable breton, Valrhona milk chocolate mousse and the elegant and scrumptious opera cake. The key is using quality ingredients and paying attention to detail. The seasonal fruit tarts are delectable cases in point. Try a classic lemon or seasonal strawberry tart with a cup of coffee or afternoon tea. 37 Seochodaero 58-gil, Seocho-gu| 02-585-9997 | @mille_gateaux
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Maillet This classic French pâtisserie is found in Seorae village, surrounded by authentic French eateries, cafés and bakeries. The owner-pâtissier couple, Sujin and Ronan Maillet, met at the Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon and earned their chops in Paris before opening up their own shop in Itaewon. Two years later, the couple opened a chic dessert boutique in Seorae village. The plush interior highlights grey-blue and mauve colors with pink gold accents. It’s perfect for an afternoon tea with one (or two!) of the delicious desserts on display. The mille-feuille and chocolate tart are the best sellers, but any dessert that uses Maillet’s rich and fragrant vanilla cream is very popular with the customers, says the owner. The caramel is made on-site and displays that perfect blend of salty sweetness that makes it another customer favorite. Also recommended are Maillet’s colorful macarons that make for great gifts to friends and family. 14 Sapyeongdae-ro 22-gil, Seocho-gu | | 02-7491411 | www.facebook.com/maillet.seoul
Honeybee Cakes If you’re a fan of delicious, decadent desserts, why not learn to make your own? Honeybee Cakes can help you reach your vanilla cream dreams. The owner-pâtissier Eunjung Cho studied pastry-making all over the world from the Chicago Chocolate Academy to Ecole Lenotre in Japan and Bellouet Conseil in Paris. Cho has worked in La Bocca and the Park Hyatt in Seoul before opening her baking studio, Honeybee Cakes, last year. She hopes to teach both hobbyists and professional pastry chefs interested in launching their own businesses. You can choose from a wide array of cakes and desserts, and often the recipes use seasonal ingredients. The Four Seasons one-day class features seasonal fruits, vegetables and colors to represent the the flavors and beauty of the season. The ssuk (mugwort) cake for example features a classic Korean herb that signals the arrival of spring. Layers of fragrant dark green sponge cake are lined with two buttercreams, white and ssuk flavored green. The resulting cakes are decorated with buttercream and sugar daisies and would make for a lovely gift. 23 Nonhyeon-ro 99-gil, Gangnam-gu | 010-90537783 | www.honeybeecakes.co.kr | www.facebook. com/honeybeecakes
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Brighten Up Your Night Discover the most colorful cocktails in town Written by S.C. Clarke Photographed by Robert Michael Evans
Everyone loves a good cocktail. While Seoul has options aplenty for securing such a beverage, some bars stand above the rest when it comes to delicious drinks. You don’t you want to waste your time with any old crude concoction. You want color! Craft! Pizazz! Grandeur in a glass! Luckily for you, we’ve tracked down and tested the best barkeeps in town. Do yourself a favor and kick-start your night off right.
Southside Parlor Since its inception, Southside Parlor has been the bar to beat for those seeking cocktails in Seoul. The twostory establishment — the upper level being a recently renovated rooftop — feels homey from the get-go, be it the weathered burgundy barstools or the soft glow of the jar lanterns emanating light above the bar. There’s a reason the drinks are so good here — it’s all about the details. Syrups are infused with fresh fruit and vegetables, liqueurs with spices and herbs. Even the base spirits have been prepared sous-vide. Everything is done on site, and always for a specific purpose.
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The highlight of their cocktail menu lies on the page labelled Greatest Hits. The Starburst is an inspired choice if you fancy something sweeter, while the Pimp’s Cup offers a tall jar of fruit for those feeling extra thirsty. The pick of the litter however, is without a doubt the Chiquita Pepita. This crisp, clean drink is made from cucumber-infused tequila, agave and lime. It’s rare that a cocktail tastes healthy. But this little green number is so good you’ll be ordering yourself a second before you’ve even put down your glass. 218 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu | 02-749-9522 | 6 p.m.–2 a.m. (Closed Mondays)
Leisure | Nightlife
Lord Behind the Hamilton Hotel in Itaewon lies Lord, a bar with a distinctly different ambience to the venues that surround it. Fish tanks frame an interior that wouldn’t look out of place in a 1950s noir film. Green bankers lamps keep the lighting low, while smooth jazz plays to round out the mood. Well-dressed waiters provide you with a hot towel and a menu, which comes in the form of a lavish, leather-bound book. Broken down into chapters, each section comes with a story describing both the presentation and origins of the high-caliber drinks on hand. If you’re after something strong, look no further than the Amerigo Old Fashioned. Sparing no expense, this new spin on a classic comes served in a wooden box. Within sit vials of fresh cinnamon and anise, the drink itself of course and, believe it or not, plumes of earthy, voluminous smoke. For something lighter and a tad more colorful, the Tasty Fizz is a bubbly delight made from raspberries, egg whites and cream. Each sip is like liquid candy cushioned by the gentlest nudge of booze. This is one cocktail that anyone can enjoy, should they fancy themselves a drinker or not. 116-7 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu | 010-9696-7951 | 6 p.m.–5 a.m.
BAR d.still While typically known for its nightclubs and hof bars, Hongdae is actually home to a number of upscale venues that pride themselves on their cocktails. Top of the pecking order is BAR d.still, a nook with an unassuming exterior a stone’s throw from Sangsu Station. No signage adorns the entrance. No clues allude to what awaits within beyond a well-lit wooden door. This is one of those rare establishments that can get by on reputation alone. While the drink menu is a broad one, the two most colourful cocktails come with a heady base of gin. First off is the Debutant, a tall glass of sophistication in both substance and style alike. Pomegranate syrup brewed up in house is emboldened by a dash of bitters, before lime and orange blossom water bring the cocktail into bloom. Next up is the Wild and Smooth, an aptly named fusion of classic ingredients along with locally sourced fare. Chamomile-infused gin is complimented with homemade syrup produced from Korean wildflowers and leaves. Lemon juice and egg whites strike a balance between the sweet and sour, while provincially procured flora serves as garnish for the glass. 10, Wausan-ro 15-gil, Mapo-gu | 02-337-7560 | 8 p.m.–3 a.m. (Closed Sundays)
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The Joys of Clay Ceramic workshops offer tranquility and a creative outlet Written by Lee Sang-ah
Ceramic workshops have always been available in our neighborhoods. Along with the DIY craze, many people became keen to adapt their personal taste to their environment, and naturally they started to pay more attention to the design of their own personal space. Of all elements of interior design, many see ceramics as an accessible and captivating option to unleash their creative energy. “Today, many people seem to place more weight on how they spend their time rather than what they eat or what they wear,” says Kim Min-seon, the owner of Line and Segment, a ceramics studio in Haebangcheon. If you are looking for a place where you can immerse yourself in an activity to counterbalance your hectic, everyday life, here are some ceramic workshops that deserve to be checked out.
© Warms of Pottery
Warms of Pottery 그릇의 온도 Jung Young-hwa opened Warms of Pottery in the middle of the residential area near Sinchon in 2016 with the thought that she would offer a relaxing and heartwarming activity through ceramics classes. “The residents in the vicinity make up the majority of people who drop by this studio or takes classes. Most people simply come here just curious at first, but when they start making something they can actually use in life, they tend to keep on challenging themselves with more sophisticated creations,” says Jung. She adds that some students just want to experience ceramic art,
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but others have specific goals in taking classes. For example, an Australian participant once took a class to make and sell ceramic accessories in Australia. To encourage the class participants one by one in their efforts to complete their works, Jung prefers a small class size — a maximum of five participants for the hand-building class and two for the wheel-throwing class. In the long run, Jung hopes to expand her professional offerings to the realm of art psychotherapy, as she sees the process of making ceramics as a natural healing process. 94 Baekbeom-ro 1-gil, Mapo-gu | @ the_bowl
Leisure | Diversions
© Ondo Studio © Ondo Studio
© Line and Segment
Line and Segment 선과 선분 Line and Segment is nestled in Haebangchon, which is smartening up under the city rejuvenation project by the Seoul Metropolitan Government. Kim Minseon, the owner, uses the studio herself to make her own works of art and runs classes for beginners on Wednesdays and Saturdays to share her experience with others. Kim says that it is indeed refreshing and inspiring to meet new people and to see them contented in her classes. In turn, those who take her classes say that working with clay to make dishes, bowls and cups of various kinds provides a tactile experience that relieves daily stress. “When I build a form with malleable clay, the time of absorption brings me inner peace, away from miscellaneous thoughts,” says Seok Hye-yoon, a class participant. Social media services like Instagram encourage the influx of the class participants living in Paju or Pangyo in Gyeonggi-do Province. “One of the reasons I chose this studio was the location. It is fun to see the sights after class,” says Choi Min-ah, a class participant.
Ondo Studio 온도 스튜디오 Yang Hyun-seok and Song Ji-hyun opened this Hanok studio dedicated to ceramics classes for both amateurs and experienced artists in 2016. Yang offers a flexible class to meet students’ needs. He has even used a potter’s wheel in the first session of a class, which is very rare for beginners. Sometimes participants bring images that they wish to make in the two-hour class, and in this case they can be helped to form the shape in the image. “Making something tangible with my own hands means a lot to me, and recently I started to engrave my name on my plates. The more I take classes, the deeper I fell into the charms of ceramics,” says Jung Hyang-hee, a former product designer. The recent surge in the number of male participants is a significant change in the composition of class takers. Florists, chefs and bakers are taking classes in search of vases or dishes to use in their workplaces. Ceramic classes are wide open to everybody who gravitates toward the beauty of ceramics. 14, Bukchon-ro 5na-gil, Jongno-gu | @ ondo_studio
28, Sowol-ro 20-gil, Yongsan-gu | @ lineandsegment_studio
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Hanbok, Modern and Accessible Combining traditional style with contemporary comfort, modernized Hanbok lend some color to the crowd this spring Written by Hahna Yoon Over the next few weeks, you may notice something a bit new in the usual sea of black coats and blue jeans you see on the subway. The modernized Hanbok, a contemporary twist on the traditional Korean costume, is back, fiercer and more accessible than ever. When the trend began in 2015, designers such as Tchai Kim and Leesle began playing with traditional Hanbok lines by changing the outfit’s length, print or fabric. At first, only a handful of brands offered modernized Hanbok. Now, however, you can find them at online shopping malls and a plethora of local shops.
© Teterot Salon
Like many modernized Hanbok lovers, Lee Sae-rom documents her outfits on an Instagram account (@tani_8327). She says, “When I wear Hanbok, I feel so comfortable.” Her favorite brands include Minjuhwa (minjuhwa.co.kr) and Levent (levent.kr), and she does most of her Hanbok shopping online. “Minjuhwa makes their Hanbok by freehand cutting, and that allows your tops to stay in place even if you move around a lot,” she says. “The skirts have two different loopholes to cater to your waist size and don’t easily slide down like the others. While they provide general sizes, you can send them your measurements and they’ll custom-make one for you at no extra cost.” Though Levent costs a bit more to customize, it has more designs. She adds, “I have to have all of my Hanbok custom-made because if I buy one off the racks, something seems out of place.” Christina Jung bought her first modernized Hanbok last February for the Lunar New Year and a trip to Europe. “I had always wanted a traditional outfit but hesitated to buy a Hanbok for myself because of the price and its impractical design,” says Jung. “[Then] I noticed that many designers were modernizing Hanbok and keeping the traditions
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Shopping
© Teterot Salon
© Coreano
alive through these outfits.” Chancing upon a sale at modernized Hanbok store Teterot Salon in Ikseon-dong, she decided to buy one with a friend. Located in a renovated Hanok, Teterot Salon has everything from bold prints in unique colors to matching checked tops and bottoms. “When I wear Hanbok, I like to braid my hair or put it up in a bun,” she says. “It really makes me feel like I’m in the past, and I think it looks pretty that way, too.” Having studied apparel design and production in college, Madeline Pagel was interested in the evolution of traditional costume and eventually purchased an outfit to have something by which to remember Korea. She says, “I also wanted to be able to dress up with my students on holidays, and they seem to enjoy seeing me in it.” Though she made her first purchase at the Anguk branch of Coreano, she says she realized there were several other modernized Hanbok shops in the same area and found their stock somewhat similar. “Don’t be afraid to take photos and mix and match across stores,” she says. “Also, keep in mind that’s it’s usually harder to mix and match prints.” She recommends getting a skirt in a solid cotton color you like and then buying seasonal jeogori, the upper garment, in various styles and patterns. For a great summery style, Karla Obispo suggests the company Hanbokful (facebook.com/hanbokfu), which
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specializes in many short-sleeved styles. To make your modernized Hanbok a bit more casual, Lee Hyeon-yeong from Busan suggests pairing modernized Hanbok with light makeup and simple sneakers. For foreigners who may have felt apprehensive about wearing Hanbok, Joann Short says a modernized Hanbok is a great alternative. She says, “Modernized Hanbok takes what I liked about traditional Hanboks and makes me more comfortable wearing Hanbok as a non-Korean.”
Teterot Salon 21-12 Supyo-ro 28-gil, Jongno-gu | 02-1600-2175 | Monday– Sunday 11 a.m.–7 p.m | teterot.com
Coreano 39 Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu | 02-720-0301 | Monday–Sunday 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m | coreano.kr
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Cinema
Award Winning ‘Jane’ Leads Wildflower Nominations Critically acclaimed drama is just one in a strong pack of independent films Written by Jason Bechervaise Photos courtesy of the Wildflower Film Awards
Entering its fifth year, the Wildflower Film Awards — founded and organized by film critics Darcy Paquet and Oh Dong-jin — seeks to bring recognition to the Korean independent film industry that bears much fruit despite difficulties in funding and distribution. Hence the name “Wildflower Film Awards,” which symbolizes the abundance of fertility in the face of such conditions.
Busan discoveries dominate nominations Topping this year’s nominations is Cho Hyun-hoon’s stupendous drama about teenage runaways, “Jane,” which has been warmly embraced by critics and audiences alike following its premiere at the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) in 2016. With six nominations including best director, best screenplay, best leading actor for Koo
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Kyo-hwan who plays a transgender woman called Jane and best leading actress for Lee Min-ji, it’s in poll position to win the grand prize. This award is chosen out of the films nominated for best director in the feature and documentary categories. But following closely behind reflecting its popularity with critics and those in the local industry is Lim Dae-hyeong’s touching tale, “Merry Christmas Mr. Mo,” which has landed five nominations. It is indeed a close race, not least for best leading actor, which sees character actor Key Joo-bong being nominated for his role as Mr. Mo, a barber suffering from terminal cancer with one last wish before he dies: to make a film. Also nominated for best director and best screenplay, it again underscores the importance of BIFF in discovering talent, which is where the film first greeted audiences. Other Busan films to feature in the nominations are Shin Dong-il’s “Come Together” and Shin Joon’s “Yongsoon” with three apiece; Lee Seung-won’s “Communication & Lies” with two while “Method,” “Romans 8:37,” “Lost to Shame” and “The Table” have one each.
Jeonju projects feature heavily Each year the Jeonju International Film Festival finances and produces several features and 2017 was a particularly strong year for these Jeonju Cinema projects. This is reflected in the nominations with all three projects from last year securing nominations. Kim Yang-hee’s drama “The Poet and the Boy,” about a married poet played by Yang Ik-june who develops feelings for a boy working in a donut shop, has bagged four nominations including best screenplay and best new director. The film was also invited to the Toronto Film Festival last year. The understated drama “The First Lap,”
which follows a young couple who are facing pressure to get married, has received three nominations, including best leading actress and best leading actor for Kim Sae-byuk and Cho Hyun-chul, respectively. The film directed by Kim Dae-hwan, who brought home the best new director award at the Locarno Film festival last year, is also nominated for best director. Lee Chang-jae’s political documentary box office hit, “Our President,” which looks at the rise of the late Korean president Roh Moohyun, has landed one nomination for best director in the documentary category.
Other films Hong Sangsoo’s “On the Beach and Night Alone” and “The Day After” also feature in the nominations with the prolific auteur landing a best director nomination for both films. Kim Min-hee, who won the Silver Bear for Best Actress for her role in the former at the Berlin Film Festival last year, is nominated for best actress, while Kwon Hae-hyo has secured a best leading actor nomination for his role in the latter. Other notable films to be nominated include Park Suk-young’s “Ash Flower,” with three nominations including best director, and the political documentaries “Bamseom Pirates Seoul Inferno” and “Criminal Conspiracy” have both landed a nomination for best director in the documentary category. The awards will be announced at a ceremony to take place on April 12 at Literature House Seoul near Chungmuro, the former home of the Korean film industry.
Arts & Culture
TV
Procedural Plethora SEOUL investigates this season’s top cop shows Written by Miruh Jeon
If you’re into police dramas, you’re in for a treat this season. Here’s a roundup of some of the best new police shows that you won’t want to miss. Whether you’re in the mood for a buddy cop show or a crime-fantasy thriller, you can count on these new shows to keep you on the edge of your seat.
Queen of Mystery Season 2 Choi Kang-hee and Kwon Sang-woo have joined forces again on the small screen for the second season of “Queen of Mystery.” This KBS series follows the adventures of Yoo Seol-ok, an aspiring police officer with a knack for deductive reasoning, and Ha Wanseung, a fearless detective who prefers to go with his gut. The previous season ended last May on a high note with this unlikely investigative duo forming a close bond. Season 2 is a continuation of their journey, making “Queen of Mystery” one of the first drama series on Korea’s terrestrial television to adopt the season format that is still quite uncommon here in Korea. Although the second season failed to start off with a bang, the ratings have been steadily rising due to its depictions of compelling criminal cases that deal with issues like juvenile delinquency and marriage fraud. The show also focuses on Yoo Seol-ok’s efforts to achieve her lifelong dream of becoming a police officer and, to make things more interesting, Yoo and Ha’s relationship takes a new turn as they get closer. Plus, the new season introduces several new cast members, including Lee Da-hae and Park Byung-eun, whose characters spice up the team dynamic. Children of a Lesser God For those that are looking for something a bit more suspenseful, OCN’s new crime thriller “Children of a Lesser God” is definitely worth watching. Starring actors Kang Ji-
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hwan and Kim Ok-bin, this new series comes from the same network that’s been producing some of the best crime shows in recent years, like the “Vampire Prosecutor” series and the more recent “Black.” This new “crime-fantasy” thriller combines police procedural with supernatural elements, making it quite dark but intriguing. The show revolves around an eerie incident that involves the death of 31 people at a welfare facility run by a corrupt religious organization. The two main characters, Cheon Jae-in and Kim Dan, cross paths as they attempt to solve this mysterious case that blurs the line between reality and fantasy but find themselves to be complete opposites. Cheon Jae-in is an exceptional forensics expert with an IQ of 167 and years of experience under his belt, while Kim Dan is a warm-hearted rookie detective with an extraordinary ability to recall and even feel the memories of a victim’s death.
Live TvN is taking a different approach to police drama. The network recently released a new series entitled “Live,” written by the veteran screenwriter Noh Hee-kyung who’s responsible for hit TV shows like “It’s Okay, That’s Love” and “Dear My Friends.” Unlike most police dramas that follow criminal cases, “Live” focuses more on the police officers themselves and tells the story of their daily lives. In the first episode, viewers are introduced to Han Jeong-oh (Jung Yu-mi) and Yeom Sang-soo (Lee Kwang-soo) who decide to become police officers after struggling year after year to land jobs in an incredibly tough job market. The show touches on gender inequality, fraud and other pressing issues that our society is facing today and aims to offer a ray of hope to those going through similar situations.
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Music
Five K-Indie Hidden Gems You Should Know Experience Acoustics in Suwon and a Barber(ette) shop trio Written by Kristina Manente
Thanks to the Internet and the age of social media, indie and underground musicians in Korea are able to find new fans a lot easier. However, unless you go looking for them, you may not find some truly talented artists that haven’t hit it big yet. From folk to rock ’n’ roll to acoustic ballads, here are five hidden gems that you really ought to know. Sundae 선데 You’ve probably never heard of this adorable acoustic team, which is a shame, because they’re wonderful. With a light and happy tone, it’s impossible not to immediately fall in love with Sundae. Comprised of vocalist Yoon Tae-rin and guitarist Kang So-won, Sundae are based south of Seoul in Suwon. If you’re looking for something that puts a smile on your face and a sweet voice in your ear, you need to give these two a listen. The pair even describe their work as “warm music that gives people a warm hug.”
Jun Bum Sun & the Yangbans
’80s rock sound. However, they are a very Korean band. Jun Bum Sun takes the idea of the yangban and plays with it, dressing himself up in traditional attire while playing an electric guitar, banging drums like a wild man and overall combining elements of traditional Korean music with contemporary rock ’n’ roll. While the group is sadly on hiatus because of Jun Bum Sun’s military service, that just means you have even more time to listen to all their albums.
Folkspoon 포크스푼 Folkspoon won lots of indie awards in 2017 with good reason. Their sound is fresh and pleasant, and the four person group frequently does covers and play singing games with fans on their social media. It’s a given considering the name, but many of their tracks have a folk slant, relying heavily on acoustic guitar. They do bust out the electric guitars occasionally though. The musicianship in Folkspoon is great, and if you’re a big guitar fan, they’re worth listening to for that reason alone.
Drain 드레인 If you watched “Hello, My Twenties 2,” then you’d recognize the dulcet tones of Drain. Soft spoken, but with a warm voice, this is a soloist to keep listening for. What’s even more impressive is that she does everything herself. She sings, plays her own piano accompaniment and even does the MIDI sequencing in some of her songs. Talk about a multi-talented lady! Drain mostly plays in the folk circuit in Seoul, but hopefully with her success at doing an OST, she’ll become more well known.
The Barberettes 바버렛츠 “The time-traveling girl group. For the love of harmony.” That’s how The Barberettes describe themselves, and it’s on the nose. This doo-wop trio of massively talented ladies is possibly the best kept secret of all. With killer vocals and a vintage twist, this girl group is anything but ordinary. They count The Ronettes, The Beach Boys and Etta James amongst their inspirations, which is all you need to know you’re going to have a fun time listening to them.
전범선과 양반들
If you’re a rock fan, you’ll love Jun Bum Sun & the Yangbans. You’ll get your fair share of guitar riffs and be treated to Jun Bum Sun’s smoky voice. The group has lots of British rock influences and sometimes even reaches towards a classic
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Arts & Culture
Books
A Thrilling Tale of Murder, Math and North Korea J. M. Lee’s ‘The Boy Who Escaped Paradise’ further demonstrates the health of Korean genre fiction Written by Barry Welsh
In a recent article, Britain’s Guardian newspaper asked if Korean genre novels were poised to become the next trend in international publishing. The article cited the recent bidding war and eventual six-figure sale of Kim Un-su’s “The Plotters” as evidence of the new trend. After the crossover success of Korean literary fiction such as Han Kang’s “The Vegetarian” and Shin Kyung-sook’s “Please Look After Mom,” are Korean crime novels about to be the next Korean wave? The article also mentioned the success of Un-su’s contemporary, J. M. Lee, whose prison-set literary thriller, “The Investigation,” about the life of beloved Korean poet Yun Dong-ju, was warmly received upon its release in 2014. Lee’s second novel in English translation, “The Boy Who Escaped Paradise,” was published to no small acclaim last year and is further evidence of the vibrancy of Korean genre fiction. “The Boy Who Escaped Paradise” is several things at once — a globetrotting crime thriller, a coming of age tale about a North Korean refugee, an odd romance and even an oblique primer on mathematical theories such as Poincare’s conjecture and Godel’s incompleteness theorem. The story begins in New York where the novel’s protagonist, 24-yearold Asperger’s sufferer Gil-mo, is arrested next to the body of a murdered North Korean defector. Equations written in blood are found around the dead man. The CIA accuse Gil-mo of being a murderer, gangster and terrorist. From there the story flashes back as Gil-mo attempts to explain the circumstances that brought him to New York. The story he tells begins with his
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birth in North Korea in 1988 to a family of undertakers. His family struggles through North Korea’s “Arduous March,” almost starving in the process. When his genius for math becomes apparent, he is moved to a school for talented youngsters and participates in Pyongyang’s mass games. His education is cut short when his father is discovered to be a secret Christian. Father and son are incarcerated in a prison camp where Gil-mo meets a vicious warden who will reappear in his life in unexpected ways and a beautiful young girl who will become his life’s obsession. From there the story eventually leads to the criminal underworlds of China and Japan, the glittering casinos of Macau, the Mexican desert and finally New York. Gil-mo is a brilliant creation. He tells his story through his love of math and symmetry, equating his experiences to mathematical formulas. Lee is a talented storyteller, and “The Boy Who Escaped Paradise” is clever and endlessly compelling. Readers can but hope that more Korean genre fiction makes it into translation soon. “The Boy Who Escaped Paradise” Written by J. M. Lee Translated by Chi-Young Kim Published by Pegasus Books (December 20, 2016) Hardcover: 288 pages
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Concerts, Festivals and More DRAWN BY THE WIND: SHIN YUN-BOK & JEONG SEON Dongdaemun Design Plaza Thru May 24 KRW 10,000 www.ddp.or.kr Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Lines 2, 4, and 5)
Shin Yun-bok and Jeong Seon: Although they focused on different subject matter, both artists fundamentally aimed to depict an ideal Joseon. The “Drawn by the Wind: Shin Yun-bok & Jeong Seon” exhibition aims to create harmony among centuries-old paintings, people and modern media technology by using cutting-edge media to introduce contemporary viewers to the spirit of Koreans who lived 300 years ago. This exhibition does not require viewers to attempt to understand it; rather, the exhibition strives to understand them. It is the perfect opportunity to see artworks by two master painters of the Joseon Dynasty and get a glimpse of the stories hidden behind these classical masterpieces through cutting-edge media.
FROM CLASSICISM TO IMPRESSIONISM: THREE CENTURIES OF THE FRENCH ART National Museum of Korea Thru April 15 KRW 6,000 T. 1688-0361 Jungang Line (Line 4), Exit 2
The National Museum of Korea presents “Fom Classicism to Impressionism: Three Centuries of the French Art, Masterpieces of the French Art of the XVII–XIX Centuries from the Collection of the Hermitage” in collaboration with the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia. The State Hermitage Museum has the largest collection of French art anywhere in the world outside of France. It is an impressive collection of French artworks that was acquired by the Romanov czars and czarinas including Catherine the Great, Russian aristocrats and entrepreneurs. Featuring 89 paintings, sculptures and drawings by French masters including Nicolas Poussin, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Claude Monet and Henri Rousseau, this exhibition is a wonderful opportunity to sense how the Russians in the 18th and 19th centuries appreciated French culture, and to see quintessential French art from that time.
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Previews
PAPER, PRESENT Daelim Museum Thru May 27 KRW 6,000 www.daelimmuseum.org Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3), Exit 3
Daelim Museum presents “Paper, Present,” an exhibition highlighting the moments of paper transforming into a sensual medium through the delicate sensibilities of international artists. The exhibition features the works of 10 individual and team artists from various fields that reveal the intrinsic qualities and pure beauty of paper. Paper has served as the starting point of creation in a myriad of areas, ranging from the medium for simple written records to the notebooks of ideas for artists. Adding inspiration to paper and transforming it into art, the exhibition “Paper, Present” delivers a unique experience to the viewers in the form of a present.
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THE MASTERPIECE Seoul Museum Thru April 8 KRW 9,000 T. 02-395-0100 Take Bus 1020, 1711, 7016, 7018, 7022 or 7212 from Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3), Exit 3
“The Masterpiece” was planned to mark the fifth anniversary of the Seoul Museum’s founding, and visitors will be able to see a range of incredible artworks. Seven of Korea’s most acclaimed modern artists will be on exhibition, names such as Lee Jung-seob, Kim Ki-chang and Do Sang-bong. Enjoy this rare opportunity to see the works of seven masters under one roof.
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THE PORTRAIT WITH(OUT) ARTISTS Nam Seoul Museum of Art Thru May 20 Free sema.seoul.go.kr Sadang Station (Line 2), Exit 6
For its first exhibition of 2018, Nam Seoul Museum of Art has prepared “The Portrait with(out) Artists” as a step towards becoming a hospitable and friendly art museum, an art museum with a heart. The exhibit explores the portraits of Korean artists and the portrait of contemporary art photographed by renowned photo artists in Korea. The faces of art personalities such as artists, poets, novelists, film directors and actors from the 1970s to 2000s, captured by representative photographers such as Joo Myung Duck, Yook Myeongshim, Koo Bohnchang, and Hein-kuhn Oh, form the center of this exhibition. Another axis of the exhibition in this time of universalization of photo media, represented by mobile phone cameras and social media, is not just to retro-illuminate the portrait of the artists, but to have an opportunity to contemplate on the meaning of artist and the art in the contemporary art of "here and now" through the photography of young photo artists.
SOUNDS HANGEUL: VARIATION OF THE KOREAN ALPHABET National Hangeul Museum April–June 3 Free www.hangeul.go.kr Ichon Station (Jungang Line or Line 4), Exit 2
“Sounds Hangeul: Variation of the Korean Alphabet” uncovers the phonetic alphabet of Korean characters. The special exhibition focuses on the visual aspect of Hangeul and how the sound and phonetic features of Hangeul are imaged. It also focuses on the phonetic aspect of Hangeul and how its sound is captured and recorded. In the exhibition, the designers’ works of graphic arts, furniture and accessories manifest how various meanings and sounds of Hangeul are formed and how the basic eight letters of Hangeul are expanded.
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Previews
JUNGJIN LEE: ECHO MMCA Gwacheon | Thru July 1 | KRW 2,000 | www.mmca.go.kr Seoul Grand Park Station (Line 4), Exit 2 or 4
The MMCA presents the exhibition “Jungjin Lee: Echo”, introducing the course of work developed by Jungjin Lee, an artist who plays an important role in expanding the artistic horizons of Korean photography. The exhibition is organized in conjunction with Fotomuseum Winterthur, one of Europe’s leading photography museums. The 2018 MMCA exhibition presents a more extensive version of Lee’s works—showcasing neverbefore-seen selections from the “American Desert” (1993– 1994), “Untitled” (1997–1999) and “Wind” (2004–2007) series along with a documentary film on the artist’s darkroom process of Hanji printing.
GWANGHWAMUN INTERNATIONAL ART FESTIVAL 2018 Gwanghwamun Square April 19–May 27 Free www.giaf.or.kr (Korean only) Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5)
TURANDOT Sejong Center for the Performing Arts | April 26–29 | KRW 20,000–120,000 T. 02-399-1000 | Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5), Exit 1 or 8
The Seoul Metropolitan Opera will perform Puccini’s “Turandot,” which premiered in 1926, at Sejong Center. Based on a story by the 12th century poet Nizami, “Turandot” tells the tale of Prince Calaf’s quest to marry the heartless but beautiful Turandot by solving three puzzles. One of Puccini’s top three works, it boasts of such famous arias such as “Nessun Dorma” (None Shall Sleep).
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Gwanghwamun International Art Festival 2018 will take place throughout Sejong Museum of Art, Gwanghwamun Square and Seoul Metro Art Center. Sejong Center for the Performing Arts will be offering free admission to its four exhibitions, one outdoor event and 11 art-related programs so that anyone can come and appreciate the art. Additionally, in celebration of Children's Day on May 5, there will be a Children’s Art Contest near the northern side of Gwanghwamun Square. The theme of the contest will be related to Gwanghwamun and open to elementary students.
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Expat Buzz MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON
MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON: SENSATIONAL SICILY AT IL PONTE The Millennium Seoul Hilton’s Italian restaurant, Il Ponte, is pleased to announce a special promotion featuring the sensational cuisine of Sicily. The special fivecourse menu will only be available during March and April, and is priced at KRW 98,000 per person. The mainstay of Sicilian cuisine is the fruits of the sea. Sicily is an island in the Mediterranean Sea surrounded by bountiful seafood and blessed with healthy harvests of eggplant, lemons, oranges, tomatoes and grapes for wine. The Sicilian set menu will include fried seafood with a spicy tomato sauce; cream of eggplant and red capiscum soup; spaghetti with eggplant and basil in tomato sauce; a choice of grilled beef tenderloin with Marsala wine sauce or pan-fried sea bass with pine nuts, capers, raisins, carrot cloud and cauliflower and Marsala wine sauce; and a ricotta cheese cake for dessert. Il Ponte’s Chef Im Jang-hwan said, “Sicilan food is vibrant, just like the people. In this special Sicilian showcase, we are using eggplant, lemons, preserved fruits, Marsala wine, seafood—all items that are representative in Sicilian cuisine. I hope that you will enjoy this taste of Sicily.”
blossoms and views of the Hangang River. The hike will be followed by a chimaek party. KRW 10,000 (the chimaek costs extra, though) www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup
Join the Seoul Hiking Nature Group for a hike up Eungbongsan Mountain, famous for its forsythia
SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP:
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탐앤탐스 페니 하우스 미니 선물세트
SPRING COLORFUL ROAD TRIP Apr. 6-8 Gyeongsangnam-do The Seoul Hiking Nature Group takes a road trip to Gyeongsangnam-do to take in the cherry blossoms in Jinhae, the azeleas of Geoje-do and the port beauty of Tongyeong. KRW 78,000
SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: ORGANIC STRAWBERRY PICKING Apr. 7 Yangpyeong, Gyeonggi-do The Seoul Hiking Nature Group will visit an organic strawberry farm near Dumulmeori to pick strawberries and to make strawberry waffles and ice cream. KRW 38,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup
RASKB: JINHAE BLOSSOMS & ROK NAVAL EXCURSION Apr. 7-8 Jinhae, Gyeongsangnam-do
www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup
Jinhae is Korea's most famous, and arguably the best, place to view cherry blossoms. To avoid most traffic hassles, this year we will travel largely by fast and comfortable KTX super express train, with just local connections by a chartered bus. KRW 165,000 for members, KRW 175,000 for non-members www.raskb.com
SIWA: SIWA CHARITY GALA 2018 Apr. 7 Conrad Hotel Seoul
SIWA: SEOUL FORTRESS WALL - PART 2 Apr. 10 Seoul Fortress Wall
For reservations or enquiries, please call Il Ponte at (02) 317-3270. Prices quoted above are already inclusive of tax and service charge SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: FORSYTHIA BLANKET EUNGBONGSAN Apr. 4 Eungbongsan Mountain
exotic cocktails, sumptuous food, dazzling entertainment, raffle prizes, dancing and more at the Carnaval Do Brasil-themed Charity Gala 2018. The annual Charity Gala is the second largest fundraising event with all net proceeds benefit local Korean charities. KRW 180,000 for members, KRW 200,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com
Join us for an exciting evening of
Join SIWA friends for a hike
over Inwangsan Mountain from Changuimun Gate to Sungnyemun Gate. This trek is 5.3 km and should take 4 ½ hours with a lunch break. KRW 5,000 for members, KRW 15,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com
RASKB: SHIFTING NATIONAL CHARACTERS ON DISPLAY AT CHANGGYEONGGUNG Apr. 10 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace David Kendall looks at some major changes in Korea’s governing and social structures as reflected in the grounds of Changgyeonggung. The speaker uses discourse and content analysis of guide books, brochures and websites to show how travel writers come to absorb conveniently condensed narratives and imagery as successive administrators place new monuments atop or alongside those of their predecessors in largely successful attempts to rewrite this geographic scene. Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com
SIWA: KOREAN ANTIQUE MARKET DAPSIMNI Apr. 12 Dapsimni Antique Shopping Complex
Hike, bike and explore in Gyeongju, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla. KRW 98,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup
BOTTEGA LOUNGE
NEW BOTTEGA LOUNGE OPENED
RASKB: CHANGGYEONGGUNG: KOREA IN A NUTSHELL WALKING TOUR Apr. 14 Changgyeonggung Once a royal residence, Changgyeonggung has symbolized a tumultuous struggle with national identity in real-time from the early 1900s to now. Joseon’s last rulers and colonial Japanese administrators began transforming this palace into Changgyeongwon in 1909. Like Tokyo’s Ueno Park, it had a zoo, botanical garden and museum showcases. Park Chung-hee’s government feted Changgyeongwon’s 60th anniversary with reparations from Japan, expanding the zoo and adding an amusement park. Subsequent dictators burnished cultural sites ahead of the 1988 Seoul Olympics and began palace restoration. Democratically elected administrations have since progressively stripped the grounds of Colonial and Authoritarian Era remnants in homage to Joseon and Korea. KRW 20,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.raskb.com
If you want to splurge or bargain hunt, this is a good place to start. An area of 150 shops awaits at Dapsimni Antique Shopping Complex. KRW 5,000 (SIWA members only) www.siwakorea.com
SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: SPRING PICNIC TO NAMISEOM ISLAND & RAIL BIKE IN CHUNCHEON Apr. 15 Namiseom, Gyeonggi-do
SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: GYEONGJU CHERRY FULL BLOSSOMS Apr. 13-15 Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbukdo
What better way to spend a spring day that by strolling around the splendor that is Namiseom Island? This trip includes a rail bike ride through Chuncheon and a dinner of Chuncheon Dak Galbi. KRW 53,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup
In collaboration with its local partner, Bottega inaugurated a prestigious Bottega Lounge in Seoul, where wines, spirits and liqueurs are offered. The glamorous space is located in Gangnam-gu, the exclusive quarter of the Korean capital, which has been chosen as a film set for numerous films. This area, the city's financial district, also hosts boutiques and stores of the most renowned international brands. Gangnam-gu, known for its widespread wealth and high level of well-being, is often compared by Koreans to universally famous neighborhoods like Beverly Hills. The most significant indicator is the value of properties, which are more than twice the average cost of a house in Seoul. The presence of a prominent Bottega lounge in this context helps to strengthen the image and the fame of the company throughout Korea. The lounge offers the opportunity to taste a selection of Italian Prosecco, Amarone della Valpolicella, Brunello di Montalcino, grappa and liqueurs.
SIWA: HISTORIC JEONG-DONG NEIGHBORHOOD Apr. 20 Jeong-dong Jeong-dong is a very picturesque, historic and quieter neighborhood just on the western side of
downtown Seoul, filled with architectural treasures exemplifying the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, as the Joseon Dynasty came crashing down under pressures from many foreign imperial powers, and saw the beginning of the tragic formal Japanese Colonial takeover of Korea.
KRW 15,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com
AWC: OVERNIGHT TRIP TO JEONJU Apr. 20-21
‘Hair in its Natural State’
Quno Hair
served as Art Director at London’s renowned Rush Salon and nominated by the Guardian for ‘Best Hairdresser’ EXPAT BUZZ Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm. Magic Straight & Treatment Highlight &Lowlight...etc English Spoken
Gangnam/ Apgujeong Branch 02-549-0335 www.qunohair.com www.hairandjoy.com
HAIR & JOY
3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Lotte Cinema (8F) UNIQLO (1F)
coco bruni About Me
NH Bank
Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2
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For more info, call Johnny 57
Phone : 02-363-4253 Mobile : 010-5586-0243
Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do Jeonju ranks among South Korea’s most popular destinations for Korean travelers. With its historic architecture and buzzing food scene—the city was named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2012—it’s easy to see why. For foreign travelers, it’s still flying under the radar, but as word spreads, that’s likely to change. KRW 50,000 for members, KRW 70,000 for non-members awcsouthkorea.com
SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: TAEANHAEAN NATIONAL PARK Apr. 21 Taeanhaean National Park, Chungcheongnam-do The Taeanhaean National Park has beautiful seacoast scenery with gorgeous beaches, cliffs, sand dunes and sunsets. KRW 32,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup
oldest and most scenic. We will cycle through paddy fields, beautifully illuminated tunnels and along a river. KRW 15,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com
SIWA: HISTORIC WALK ALONG THE RESTORED CHEONGGYECHEON STREAM AND ITS MUSEUM Apr. 27 Cheonggyecheon Stream This four-hour tour will visit the museum now dedicated to the Cheonggyecheon and its restoration project and then walk upstream to the fountain that now begins the stream near Gwanghwamun Intersection and City Hall in the center of downtown, hearing interesting historical stories about the sites we pass. KRW 15,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com
BASS: JUNGNIM-DONG TOUR Apr. 23 Jungnim-dong
————————————— REGULAR EVENTS —————————————
We discover the hidden and non-touristic area of Jungnim-dong, a neighborhood of Seoul with an important history, largely unknown to Koreans and overseas visitors alike. It is home to some of Korea's most iconic novels and delicious local dishes, hidden from the public eye. You can feel the 1970s atmosphere while you are walking along the small alleys. Free for members, KRW 5,000 for non-members www.britishseoul.com
We won’t teach you to make great toast, but if you want to learn to speak in front of people and get over your fear of public speaking, consider Seoul Toastmasters. Jongkak Station (Line 1) Exit 10, TOZ study center KRW 6,000 for all attendees www.seoultm.org
SIWA: RAILBIKE Apr. 24 Gimyujeong Station, Gyeonggi-do Railbiking is the latest trend in Korea. New paths are being opened on disused railroad tracks wherever you go. The route between Gimyujeong station and Gangchon is one of the
SEOUL TOASTMASTERS Every Thursday 7:15 p.m. Jongno
LEARN CERAMICS WITH SARAH’ MICS
Want to learn the art of ceramics? Ceramic designer and former Emirates flight attendant Sarah Kang offers a full range of classes for adults and children, including introductory workshops, in English. Basic classes include the “wheel and handbuilding” class and kids’ pottery class. Regular classes meet once or twice a week,
KOREAN KEYWORD
FINGER PRINCE OR FINGER PRINCESS Somebody visits an Internet forum or your blog and asks the kind of question that could have been answered by a simple web search. Couldn’t you have simply Googled this yourself, you ask yourself. Why bother me with it? As you can imagine, many Internet users find this sort of behavior lazy, an annoyance to be discouraged, with snark if necessary. The habit has led to its own response acronym, LMGTFY (“Let Me Google That For You”), which in turn birthed its own website, www.letmegooglethat.com, which allows users to passively-aggressively mock the search engine-impaired with animated displays of how Google works. Korean cyberspace is as susceptible to online information begging as anywhere else. Pingpeu is an portmanteau of two English words, “finger” and “prince” or “princess,” and describes a person who won’t lift a finger to run a simple search, who prefers, instead, to get other people to run the search for them. As a collective, these people are called the pingpeu jok, or “finger prince (or princess) tribe.” Some observers believe Internet users in their teens and younger are especially prone to this sort of behavior. In an article published in October of last year in Chosun Edu, an education-focused online newspaper run by the Chosun Ilbo, reporter Sin Ye-min laments how posts by pingpeu jok plague online communities dedicated to the university entrance exam. Whereas in the past, students often copied—read: stole—material from the Internet to complete their homework assignments, students nowadays can’t be bothered even to steal stuff as this would require the thief to, at the very least, search for quality posts to rip off. This has some observers worried that young people need to be better trained to search for information, to be taught the capacity to curate knowledge they need and trust.
while one-day classes are held every Saturday. You will learn the skills to produce your own functional or artistic ceramics.
“Brighten your Smile, Brighten your Life” International Prosthodontics & Implants Dental Clinic.
Reservation required. KRW 70,000 (one-day class) T. 010-9515-3180
SEOUL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY
The Seoul Shakespeare Company
CERECTM is a cutting edge CAD/
CAM system for providing all-ceramic restorations in a single visit. Patients receive custom, hand-crafted inlays, veneers, crowns & bridges in our clinic.
Cerec Doctor : One-visit IP&I is a name you can trust.
Dr. Paik, Sung ki
dentistry. Over 6,000 restorations since 2005. Korea’s leading Cerec specialist. Serving our patients with customized, doctor’s hand-crafted restorations.
DDS, MSD, Ph. D Member of American Prosthodontic Society
58 Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite #306, 2gil 7 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-140 KOREA Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr
Expat Buzz
is the city’s only English-language theater company devoted entirely to performing Shakespeare’s works. See their website for audition and show information. www.seoulshakespearecompany.org
THEATRE AMOEBA
Theatre Amoeba is an international physical theater project created in 2002. Amoeba’s ambition is to create, educate and exchange through intercultural performances and rigorous workshops around the planet. www.theatreamoeba.org
SELF-STUDY KOREAN CLASSES Every Tuesday at 4 p.m. You Are Here Café Bring your Korean books and any questions you may have to this café in Hongdae every Tuesday. A teacher from talktomeinkorean.com will be present to provide free assistance as you practice your fluency and ask questions. Talk to Me in Korean suggests that you RSVP before attending, as space is limited. Free Hongik University Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 3 www.talktomeinkorean.com
WEDNESDAY COMEDY NIGHT Every Wednesday Tony’s Aussie Bar and Bistro Ever thought about taking your humor to the next level and trying stand-up? Tony’s Bar has a supportive and encouraging crowd that makes it the perfect atmosphere to give performing a try. With its limited space and comedian fan base, Tony’s is always filled with people who know what it feels like to try and make a room of people laugh. Free www.facebook.com/pages/TonysAussie-Bar-Bistro/ Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 1
MAGPIE BREWERY CLASSES Offered monthly Magpie Brew Co. in Gyeongnidan and Hongdae Learn how to brew your own beer while acquiring some history and insight into what makes this beverage so tasty. Participants can choose to take just one introductory class or take the full-month course, which includes four classes. KRW 50,000–180,000 www.magpiebrewing.com
MAKGEOLLI MAMAS & PAPAS Regular monthly meetings Throughout Seoul Makgeolli Mamas & Papas seeks to build a community for those interested in Korea’s makgeolli culture. This means home-brewing resources, bar information and regular meetings. mmpkorea.wordpress.com
Seoul Homebrew, Itaewon An opportunity for brewers in Korea to share some beer and chat about brewing. Let the Seoul Homebrew Club know if you are interested in attending. Bring two or three bottles of your own brew to share. Free www.seoulhomebrew.com Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 4
CONRAD SEOUL
TEA PARTY ‘SPRING BLOSSOM’
TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS SATURDAYS Saturdays at 4 p.m. National Gugak Center Each month, the National Gugak Center will present a collection of shows that display the beauty and diversity of Korean performing arts. Concerts will specifically feature dance and/or music, with a total of 50 performances this year. www.visitseoul.net 10,000 Nambu Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to bus No. 4429 and get off at National Gugak Center.
VOLUNTEERING AT ANGEL HOUSE First Saturday of the month, 1:30–7 p.m. Angel House Angel House is a home for disabled individuals in need of round-theclock care. The facility depends on the help of volunteers, and a monthly program is in place to allow people to help out just by giving up an afternoon of their month. KRW 10,000 for donation (and a meal) Meeting point: Yeonsinnae Station 연신내역 ( (Line 3 or 6), Exit 3
WORDSMITHS Every second Sunday of the month, 6–9 p.m. Southside Parlor, Yongsan Check out Wordsmiths, where spoken word and live music collide. Wordsmiths is the only event in Seoul that focuses on spoken-word poetry. Free www.facebook.com/ SouthsideParlor Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2
ITAEWON JAM NIGHT Every Thursday Livewire, Itaewon A weekly live jam session that anyone can get involved in. Sign up on the Facebook page to book a slot for your act. Free www.facebook.com/ itaewonjamnight Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3
Conrad Seoul presents its Tea Party “Spring Blossom” to feel the bloom from March. The afternoon tea party at Conrad Seoul brings the ultimate spring mood to Yeouido, a place renowned for being the most beautiful spring blossom location in the city. The Tea Party “Spring Blossom” carries a seasonal cherry blossom theme, presenting the flowers and fragrance of spring and is available for this season only. To celebrate the bloom, experience a sweet leisurely afternoon tea at Flames in the lobby lounge from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. on weekends, from March 3. Tea Party “Spring Blossom” is inspired by the gardens in full bloom during spring and presents the season’s refreshing colors and wonderful fragrances in our tea and treat selections. The desserts span a wonderful array of colors served alongside a pot of Ronnefeldt tea. Served in a prestigious Royal Albert tea set, the British tea ware brand displays splendid rose patterns, signifying the warmth of the tea and the spring days ahead, with its elegant colors and pattern tones. The savory and sweets collection are served over three wonderful tray tiers. Savory offerings include crab sandwiches or Gouda cheese buns to tantalize those taste buds. The tea-based sweet selection presents petite desserts such as Meringue Jasmin, Hibiscus Cheese Mousse and Baked Cheesecake with Lavender Cream and Pound Cake Topped with Lemongrass Tea Cream to add a richer flavor to your afternoon. A serving of homemade scones and colorful cupcakes is also served alongside a complementing pot of tea. Choose from Earl Grey, English Breakfast and Darjeeling or a selection of aromatic herb or flower teas to suit your tea tastes from the Ronnefeldt tea collection. Whether natural, aromatic or floral, the tea will be brewed to perfection before being served at your table beside your afternoon tea treats to complete the delightful Spring Blossom experience. Tea Party “Spring Blossom” is available from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. on weekends from March 3 at Flames, the lobby lounge café located on the ground floor. The price is KRW 39,000 (per person, including tax). Advance reservation is needed for all Tea Party “Spring Blossom” bookings. For reservation & inquiries: 02-6137-7130
BREW POTLUCK Every first Saturday
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SEOUL
CAFÉ TTEURAN Café Tteuran is the first Hanok teahouse in the historic Ikseon-dong area, an increasingly popular neighborhood of old Korean-style homes. It serves medicinal teas made from the best ingredients and excellent red bean porridge and patbingsu made with the finest Korean red beans. Be sure to check out its lovely courtyard garden.
NETWORK
IMPERIAL PALACE SEOUL: BLOOMING PACKAGE
GANGNAM-UC RIVERSIDE (GNUCR): FREE SAMPLE CLASSES
The Imperial Palace Seoul’s Blooming Package offers guests an overnight stay in a cozy hotel room, a restaurant voucher to enjoy some palette-pleasing cuisine, and a 150 ml bottle of Eau Thermale Avène Thermal Spring Water Mist to protect and soothe sensitive skin types during the spring season.
GNUCR offers free “open” classes to give interested parties a taste of what it’s like to study with us. This month, GNUCR’s open classes fall on April 5 and April 10. Call us today to find out more or to reserve your seat. Mention “SEOUL Magazine” when you call for a special gift. Come join the more than 20,000 students who have studied at GNUCR since we opened in 2001.
T. 02-3440-8000 | www.imperialpalace.co.kr
www.gnucr.kr | Gangnam-gu Office Station 강남구청역, Exit 1 | info@gnucr.net | Kakao: @gnucr | 02-546-3260
166-76 Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu T. 02-745-7420, @café_innergarden (Instagram)
DR. ROBBIN Dr. Robbin offers healthy, delicious salads, pizzas, soups, pasta dishes, coffees, fruit juices and homemade gelato prepared from carefully selected natural ingredients. We use no sugar, butter or artificial enhancers. Try the Green Pasta, served with a bean cream sauce made from local beans and cooked using organic olive oil from Italy. It also uses a sugar-free syrup produced from stevia leaves, a zero-calorie sweetener that’s much sweeter than sugar. www.drrobbin.com
SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: VIETNAM@FEAST Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel is presenting a “Vietnam@Feast” promotion from April 6 to April 26, showcasing a variety of authentic Vietnam cuisine prepared by visiting guest chefs from Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers. The price starts from KRW 66,000 (inclusive of tax) per adult.
SHERATON GRAND INCHEON HOTEL: SPRING PICNIC@SONGDO PACKAGE This package includes a one night stay in a deluxe city view room with majestic night views, an Incheon city tour bus ticket for two that provides a way to enjoy exotic scenery of Songdo and several landmarks in the region and a snack box for the tour filled with a set of coffee or tea, muffins, cookies, macarons and a sturdy Sheraton tumbler. Complimentary access to the Sheraton fitness center and the indoor pool is also in the package. The Spring Picnic at Songdo package is available thru May 31, starting from KRW 179,000, exclusive of service charge and V.A.T. For inquiries or reservations, call T. 032-835-1004.
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Expat Buzz