2018 서울매거진 5월 전체(웹용 단면) by Seoul Selection

OLD IS NEW AGAIN

HUAM-DONG

HADONG AND GURYE

Young entrepreneurs use old buildings to give Seoul new life

The hillside neighborhood on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain is a layered community

Countryside charms and nature’s beauty await along the banks of the Seomjingang River

AMKOR WORLDWIDE PRESENCE Strategically Located Factories and Customer Support Centers Amkor Headquarters

Sales/ Customer Support Center

Munich, Germany Archamps, France

ISSUE NO. 178

Porto, Portugal

Assembly & Test Facility

Seoul, Korea

Sales/ Customer Support Center & Assembly & Test Facility

Incheon, Korea(Global R&D Center) Gwangju, Korea

Japan-Fukui, Fukuoka, Hakodate, Kitakami, Kitsuki, Kumamoto, Oita, Usuki

Beijing, China Shanghai, China

Tokyo, Japan

Irvine, CA San Diego, CA

Zhubei City, Taiwan

MAY 2018

Shenzhen, China

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

San Jose, CA

Boston, MA Tempe, AZ Dallas, TX Austin, TX

Lung Tan Township, Taiwan Hsinchu, Taiwan

Singapore

Muntinlupa City, Philippines Binan Laguna, Philippines

WHO WE ARE MAY 2018

Opening ceremony for Amkor Global R&D Center and K5 campus.

Founded in 1968, Amkor’s continuous path of improvement, growth and innovation has led us to be a strategic and trusted manufacturing partner for more than 300 of the world’s leading semiconductor companies. Our unique expertise in high-volume manufacturing techniques and the ability to solve the technological challenges facing the industry are among our greatest strengths. Customer demand for highly sophisticated products has made semiconductor packaging a vital contributor to system performance. As one of the world’s largest suppliers of outsourced semiconductor advanced packaging design, assembly and test services, Amkor helps make innovative technologies a reality.

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES PACKAGING Consumers are demanding greater functionality and performance in a smaller space at a lower cost. Amkor is an industry leader in finding semiconductor packaging solutions to meet these complex requirements.

W 5,000 / US$ 5.00

ASSEMBLY With global high-volume manufacturing, Amkor assembles a broad portfolio of packaging solutions including wirebond and flip chip using Pb-free and green packaging.

NO. 178

ISSN: 1599-9963

FINAL TEST SERVICES Amkor provides a complete range of semiconductor test services including various types of final, system level, wafer and strip testing and complete end-of-line services up to and including final shipping.

FEATURED PRODUCTS INCLUDE 2.5/3D – THROUGH SILICON VIA Through Silicon Via (TSV) interconnects serve a wide range of 2.5D and 3D packaging applications and architectures. TSV meets high performance, low energy demands. FLIP CHIP Amkor is committed to being the leading provider of Flip Chip technology. Flip chip production capability is available in our Portugal, Philippines, Korea, Taiwan and China factories. SYSTEM IN PACKAGE (SIP) Industry demands for higher levels of integration and lower costs coupled with a growing awareness of complete system configuration drive the popularity of System in Package (SiP) solutions. WAFER LEVEL PACKAGING Amkor offers a broad array of Wafer Level Packaging capabilities and processes for packaging schemes from fan-out to chip scale to 3D to System in Package (SiP).

반도체

50년, 희망의 100년 The Air Gets Purer at Starbucks Coffee shop to expand its unique air purification system nationwide

Starbucks is striving to free itself of indoor fine particulate matter by expanding its air purification system, currently in operation on a trial basis at the coffee shop’s branches at Hongik University Station and Sincheondaero, to all newly opening branches. Starbucks has already installed an air purification system in Jeonju’s Innovation City branch. Each month, an existing branch will get its own system, too, following some renovation work. Starbucks’s air purification system is a five-stage one capable of detecting and removing ultrafine particles less that 1㎛

in diameter. Starbucks began its “Fine Particulate Matter Zero” project one year ago. The project confronts rising dust levels and provides an even more pleasant relaxation environment to the 500,000 people a day on average who leave their homes or offices to visit the coffee shop. As there were no examples of a cafe or restaurant with a flush-mounted air purifier on the ceiling, Starbucks had to ask a local manufacturer to develop one. Much thought especially went into technology – the had to be easy to maintain and repair if it was going to be

installed in every branch nationwide. For a year, Starbucks and LG Electronics prepared and tested the system. The result was a flush-mounted purifier optimized for Starbucks shops. In a poll of 200 customers at the two branches where the system was installed on a trial basis, 77 percent of respondents said they intended to visit a Starbucks branch with the air purification system installed. Some 82 percent said their satisfaction with the service improved after they learned about the system.

OLD IS NEW AGAIN

HUAM-DONG

HADONG AND GURYE

Young entrepreneurs use old buildings to give Seoul new life

The hillside neighborhood on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain is a layered community

Countryside charms and nature’s beauty await along the banks of the Seomjingang River

AMKOR WORLDWIDE PRESENCE Strategically Located Factories and Customer Support Centers Amkor Headquarters

Sales/ Customer Support Center

Munich, Germany Archamps, France

ISSUE NO. 178

Porto, Portugal

Assembly & Test Facility

Seoul, Korea

Sales/ Customer Support Center & Assembly & Test Facility

Incheon, Korea(Global R&D Center) Gwangju, Korea

Japan-Fukui, Fukuoka, Hakodate, Kitakami, Kitsuki, Kumamoto, Oita, Usuki

Beijing, China Shanghai, China

Tokyo, Japan

Irvine, CA San Diego, CA

Zhubei City, Taiwan

MAY 2018

Shenzhen, China

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

San Jose, CA

Boston, MA Tempe, AZ Dallas, TX Austin, TX

Lung Tan Township, Taiwan Hsinchu, Taiwan

Singapore

Muntinlupa City, Philippines Binan Laguna, Philippines

WHO WE ARE MAY 2018

Opening ceremony for Amkor Global R&D Center and K5 campus.

W 5,000 / US$ 5.00

ASSEMBLY With global high-volume manufacturing, Amkor assembles a broad portfolio of packaging solutions including wirebond and flip chip using Pb-free and green packaging.

NO. 178

ISSN: 1599-9963

반도체

50년, 희망의 100년 The Air Gets Purer at Starbucks Coffee shop to expand its unique air purification system nationwide

Jamsil Bridge 잠실대교

Namsan Mountain’s N Seoul Tower peeks beneath the Jamsil Bridge as the sun sets along the Hangang River. JL McKown is an American photographer based in Seoul. You can see his work on Instagram at @jameslucian.

The Lens

Magazine

EDITOR’S NOTE Publisher Kim Hyunggeun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Copy Editor Anna Bloom Designer Lee Bok-hyun Advertising & Sales/Producer & Coordinator Ha Gyungmin About the Cover Huamdong. Photographed by Dylan Goldby Address 2nd fl., 43 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 03061, Korea / Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 / E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com / Website magazine.seoulselection.com / Registration No. 서울 라 09431 / Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publishers.

Sprawling along the ridges of Namsan Mountain like a forest of concrete, Huam-dong isn’t easy to navigate, it narrow alleys and steep staircases more a labyrinth than a rational transportation network. What the neighborhood lacks in planning and accessibility, however, it more than makes up for in views, tranquility and old fashioned charm, with a bit of the hip thrown in for good measure. Don’t be afraid to get lost in the mix. Indeed, doing so is almost a prerequisite to getting the most out the place. Also in this issue of SEOUL, we head off to the green tea fields and flowering orchards of Hadong and Gurye, talk with model Han Hyung-min, enjoy a bite at some of Huam-dong’s best eateries, browse the bookshops of nearby Haebangchon and more.

Contents The Lens

Jamsil Bridge 2

ADVERTISING To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email seoulad@seoulselection.com or hankinseoul@gmail.com

Timing is Everything 50 Choice Eats on Namsan 52

Feature

Old Is New Again 14 Exploring Seoul

Huam-dong 24

정기구독 안내

Dining

Leisure

Hot and Happening in Huam-dong 54 Bookshops on the Hillside 56 Budnamu Brewery Barrels Ahead 58

Travel

SUBSCRIPTION INFO

Hadong and Gurye 32

Arts & Culture 60

In Korea KRW 48,000 (for 12 months) KRW 30,000 (for 6 months)

Special Feature

Previews

A Pioneer Turns 50 40

Concerts, Festivals and More 64

Abroad USD 60 (for 12 months) USD 30 (for 6 months)

Interview

Expat Buzz 68

Riding the Tide, Walking the Runway 46

To subscribe to SEOUL magazine or inquire about overseas subscriptions, call (02) 734-9567 or email seoulad@seoulselection.com

magazine.seoulselection.com

seoul foreign school I N S PI R I NG E XC E L L E NC E , B U I L DI NG C H A R A C T E R - S I NC E 1 9 1 2

August 2018 marks the opening of a brand new, state-of-the-art High School building at Seoul Foreign School. Our students continue to access the finest education in Seoul. A gift to our Students, a gift to Education, and a gift to Korea. Contact us to hear the story of our new building.

Admissions now Open for 2018-19

Exploring Seoul

Magazine

Korea’s National Intangible Cultural Property No. 122 Yeon Deung Hoe

Lantern Parade

May 12(Sat)

7:00 ~ 9:30pm Along Jongno Street

(from Dongdaemun gate to Jogye-sa Temple)

Traditional Cultural Events May 13(Sun)

Noon ~ 7:00 pm Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

2018

5.11 -

5.13

www.LLF.or.kr/eng

2018 FESTIVAL SCHEDULE WHAT

WHEN

WHERE

Exhibition of Traditional Lanterns

May 11 (Fri) ~ May 22 (Tue)

Jogye-sa, Bongeun-sa Temples / Cheonggye-cheon Stream

Eoulim Madang (Buddhist Cheer Rally)

May 12 (Sat) 4:30 ~ 6:00 pm

Dongguk University Stadium

Lantern Parade

May 12 (Sat) 7:00 ~ 9:30 pm

Jongno Street (Dongdaemun ~ Jogye-sa Temple)

Hoehyang Hanmadang (Post-Parade Celebration)

May 12 (Sat) 9:30 ~11:00 pm

Jonggak Intersection

Traditional Cultural Events

May 13 (Sun) Noon ~ 7:00 pm

Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

Cultural Performances

May 13 (Sun) Noon ~ 6:00 pm

Performance Stage on the street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

Yeondeungnori (Final Celebration)

May 13 (Sun) 7:00 pm ~ 9:00 pm

Insa-dong ~ Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

Buddha’s Birthday Dharma Ceremony & Lantern Lighting

May 22 (Tue) 10:00 am 7:00 pm

Jogye-sa Temple and all temples nationwide

Old Is New Again Young entrepreneurs use old buildings to give Seoul new life Written by Robert J. Fouser Photographed by Robert Koehler

“Dull, inert cities, it is true, do contain the seeds of their own destruction and little else. But lively, diverse, intense cities contain the seeds of their own regeneration, with energy enough to carry over for problems and needs outside themselves.” – Jane Jacobs, “The Death and Life of Great American Cities”

Exploring Seoul

Magazine

A disused water pumping station in Buam-dong now houses the Yun Dong-ju Literature House. 15 One of the stationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old water tanks serves as a garden, while another is a theater.

Café Yeon reminds visitors of what Samcheong-dong used to be like.

Jane Jacobs, one of the greatest theorists on cities of the 20th century, never visited Seoul, but the city’s energy and intensity would no doubt have impressed her. She likely would have written about the narrow streets and alleys full of pedestrians in the historic center of the city, the sound of children playing coming from playgrounds in vast apartment complexes and the laughter coming from groups of friends and co-workers on a busy Friday night. She would also have noted the many examples of the creative regeneration of old things that gives Seoul its unique vibe. Regeneration is a dynamic concept that allows for the creative updating of old things to new uses and sensibilities. Preservation is more static because it focuses on preserving old things authentically as a window on the past. Museums and famous buildings are the best example of the emphasis on authenticity in preserving historical treasures. Regeneration, by contrast, focuses on how old, new and in-between work together to create something new and unique. Jane Jacobs preferred regeneration because it implies people taking control of the city to define it on their terms. For

Jacobs, people were central to the life of a city.

A recent history of old things To understand regeneration in Seoul, we need to look at the recent history of old things in South Korea. Japanese colonial rule (1910–45) and the Korean War (1950–53) left South Korea impoverished and the future looked bleak. To overcome the situation, Korea adopted economic reforms in the 1960s that put it on the path of industrialization and export-led growth. The economy boomed, and Korea transformed itself into an urbanized industrial power in a generation. Democratization in 1987 and continued economic growth propelled it into the select group of advanced democracies by the 2000s. The upheavals of the 20th century, however, were not kind to old things. During the dark years of colonial rule and war, people focused on survival. As the economy boomed, they focused on keeping up with the unrelenting pace of change. In the rush to build a better life, people looked forward and, except for a few famous cultural relics, they did not value old things. To some, old things were a reminder of a past from which they

Feature

17 An old Hanok home is Seochon has been converted into a memorial hall dedicated to the 20th century avant-garde writer Yi Sang.

(Left) Song’s Kitchen in Seochon uses picture windows to open an old Hanok to the surroundings. (Right) Seochon's alleys contain many repurposed buildings, including brick homes and Hanok.

wanted to escape; to others, they were obstacles that got in the way of progress. Things began to change in the 2000s as Korea became a wealthy democracy. In the 1990s, Koreans began traveling overseas in large numbers and many were impressed by the wealth of historic sites and streetscapes in places like Paris and London. In the 2000s, the first generation to grow up in a democratic and increasingly wealthy country came of age. This generation, now moving into their mid-30s, combines an outward looking confidence with a desire for a higher quality of life. It is also the first generation to grow up in the generic built environments devoid of old things. To this generation, old things are curious and exotic, and appreciating them is part of the search for a higher quality of life.

Love of retro The first stirrings of interest in old things was the Samcheong-dong boom in the early 2000s. For years, the area lived under the shadow of the Blue House, but a loosening of restrictions under President Roh Moo-hyun made it easier for people to visit the area. Rents were cheap and young entrepreneurs began

turning old houses, including many Hanok, into cafés and restaurants in creative ways. Many young people flocked to Samcheong-dong to enjoy the juxtaposition of old and new in the area. The popularity of Samcheong-dong caused rents to rise, forcing young entrepreneurs to move to other neighborhoods. Most of the remodeled houses have been replaced by newer buildings, but Café Yeon, one of the first Hanok café renovations, remains as an example of what things were like in the early 2000s. In the 2010s, the paradigm of young entrepreneurs renovating old building and houses in creative ways to give them a new life spread rapidly to other areas. Seochon, the neighborhood on the opposite side of Gyeongbokgung Palace from Samcheong-dong, became popular for its winding alleys and retro atmosphere. The area is a mixture of Hanok, low-rise multifamily units and commercial buildings of various ages and sizes. Song’s Kitchen, a small gourmet pizza restaurant, turned several walls of a Hanok into picture windows to open the house up to the surrounding area, which gives it a welcoming feeling. From Seochon, renovation of old buildings spread to areas further from the historic center of the city to areas such as Yeonnam-dong near

Feature

To the generation that came of age in the 2000s, the first to grow up in a wealthy and democratic Korea, old things are curious and exotic, and appreciating them is part of the search for a higher quality of life.

Hongdae and Seongsu-dong southeast of the center. These areas developed in the 1960s and 1970s and have a retro atmosphere that evokes images of Seoul during the early years of the economic boom. As Seochon and other areas were attracting attention, a boom in guesthouses created new opportunities for young entrepreneurs. In the late 2000s, the city of Seoul began to promote guesthouses to accommodate an ever-rising number of tourists. A few years later, home sharing services like Airbnb made it easier for people to start guesthouses. Many houses built in the 1970s were large so that owners could rent out part of the house for extra income. As apartments became the norm in the late 1980s, these large houses were no longer popular, and many were demolished. Because of their size, many of these houses have been renovated into guesthouses. To attract customers, guesthouses began to pay more attention to design, which created a niche market for architects and designers. By the middle of the 2010s, cafĂŠs, bars, restaurants, shops, and guesthouses were popping up in neighborhoods in Seoul and around the country with a supply of old buildings and convenient transportation. Renovations ranged from minimal changes to complete

The founders of Anarchy Bros in Huam-dong have converted an old Japanese colonial house into a cafĂŠ and pub.

Magazine

As elsewhere, most business owners rent the space they use and thus try to limit renovation costs. Using the existing structure effectively helps reduce costs and gives the renovation a sense of authenticity that a complete overhaul often lacks.

A gritty industrial district in eastern Seoul, Seongsu-dong draws crowds of visitors to chic cafĂŠs housed in old factories or warehouses. An example is Onion, an old metalworking shop that has become one of the hottest destinations in the area.

overhauls, but most renovations highlight old elements, either from the existing building or added ones from other times and places. As elsewhere, most business owners rent the space they use and thus try to limit renovation costs. Using the existing structure effectively helps reduce costs and gives the renovation a sense of authenticity that a complete overhaul often lacks.

Not just Hanok One of the most recent areas to see a wave of renovations is Huam-dong on the hill heading east from Seoul Station. Unlike other popular areas that have experienced regeneration, Huam-dong has the largest concentration of houses built by the Japanese during the colonial period. At that time, most Koreans lived north of the Cheonggyecheon Stream, and most Japanese south of it. Huam-dong was a popular place for Japanese to live because it was easy to get to the Japanese commercial center in Myeong-dong and military facilities in Yongsan. After liberation, Koreans lived in these houses, but they began to disappear rapidly in the late 1980s as owners tore them down to build more profitable multifamily units. Unlike Hanok, colonial-era houses are not considered historically valuable and receive no protection or support from the government. Nookseoul in Huam-dong is a stunning example of an 80-year old colonial-era house renovated as an upscale guesthouse. The architect, Kim Seunghoy left as much of the original structure intact as possible but updated the kitchen and the bathrooms in contrasting contemporary style. In 2016, the project received an award for innovative architecture from the city of Seoul. Nearby, the JiWol Jang Guest House turned a house built on a large lot where a luxurious colonial-era house used to sit into a relaxing guesthouse amid trees and a

Feature

Magazine

A downside 1970s commercial property is now home to the Laundry Project, a â&#x20AC;&#x153;social laundromatâ&#x20AC;? in the trendy Haebangchon district. 21

An old neighborhood of Hanok houses in central Seoul, the Ikseon-dong district is home to many repurposed Hanok homes.

Feature

Expensive housing in Seoul has forced many young people to find creative solutions to a problem that affects many big cities around the world. In recent years, young people have started to renovate apartments in lessdesirable older buildings.

larger garden. One of the most interesting renovations is Huam Jubang, a fully equipped kitchen with a dining table that people can rent by the hour. The “shared kitchen” sits in the front of small 1960s-style house on a narrow side street. Several young architects started Huam Jubang to create a place for people to cook together and socialize in an attractive setting. In nearby Haebangchon, young entrepreneurs turned a downscale 1970s commercial space into the Laundry Project, a “social laundromat” with a café and workspace in bright, contemporary interior. Expensive housing in Seoul has forced many young people to find creative solutions to a problem that affects many big cities around the world. In recent years, young people have started to renovate apartments in less-desirable older buildings. Huam-dong is one of many neighborhoods full of older buildings that offer sweeping views, which designers are eager to integrate into the renovation. Many of these buildings lack parking spaces and are difficult to reach by car, but, as elsewhere, many young people are giving up cars in favor of walking and public transportation. The British novelist L. P. Hartley famously wrote that “The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there.” The speed of change that resulted from years of rapid economic growth in Korea has turned even the near-past and the old things that it produced into a foreign country for the generation that has come of age in the 21st century. The varied buildings of the 20th century—Hanok, Japanese colonial-era houses, 1970s single-family houses, and aging apartments—appeal to young Koreans because they are exotic and “foreign.” The creative energy of this well-traveled, outwardlooking generation is giving them new life as spaces that bring people to share a higher quality of life. Jacobs, no doubt, would have been very pleased.

Magazine

Huam-dong's hills provide stunning views over the city.

Exploring Seoul

후암동

Huam-dong The hillside neighborhood on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain is a layered community Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Magazine

In addition to coffee and tea, the café Sowolgil Milyeong serves up plenty of local history, too.

“Huam-dong is a neighborhood with a rich diversity of things in it, in the very heart of Seoul.” Lee Jun-hyeong, an architect with the architectural cooperative Dosi 0gam, sits in Huam Seojae, a shared library and study his organization operates. “You can see how Korean homes have changed over different eras and the communities those eras produced,” he explains. “I think Huam-dong is a space where you can relax while experiencing the various layers of Seoul in peace since it’s not too commercialized like Haebangchon or Yeonnam-dong.” Indeed, exploring Huam-dong’s narrow hillside alleyways can be a bit like riding a time machine into days past. Stately houses built in mixed Western

and Japanese styles, where wealthy Japanese lived during the colonial era, coexist with smaller, humbler homes built after the Korean War, when refugees from northern Korea and elsewhere settled on the slopes of Namsan Mountain. Higher in the hills, design-conscious families live in sleek, stylish homes with panoramic views of the city below. The architectural diversity comes with demographic diversity. On the streets, elderly residents mingle with young couples and small children. Huam-dong’s urban ecology shelters everything from traditional markets and old fashioned snack stalls to hipster cafés and hot restaurants trending on Instagram. And unlike some of Seoul’s more gentrified districts,

Exploring Seoul

the neighborhood still feels like a neighborhood, an organically developed space where people actually live as well as visit, a minor miracle given its position between the up-and-coming Seoul Station area and increasingly trendy Haebangchon.

In Namsan’s embrace Huam-dong is wedged into a steep valley on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain, just below Seoul’s old city walls. The steep hillsides and streams flowing down the mountain discouraged large-scale settlement. After Japan’s forced annexation of Korea in 1910, however, many wealthy Japanese settled in the area, which was near major institutions of imperial power such as the colonial central bank, the government-general, the railroad and the sprawling Japanese army camp at Yongsan. Their homes blended Western exterior elements with Japanese interior elements, including tatami mats. These homes, called “culture houses” or munhwa jutaek, reflected Japanese efforts to Westernize in the early 20th century. Though the Japanese left in 1945, many of their homes survive, easily recognized by their pointy,

Namsan Public Library boasts panoramic views of Namsan Mountain.

The 100 Food Truck is a very scenic spot to enjoy a meal.

Magazine

Mid Century Mood Coffee's Wave Toast is an Instagram favorite.

A renovated colonial home, Anarchy Bros blends beverages and history.

Huam Market continues to thrive.

Exploring Seoul

A mural celebrates the Hangang River.

Stuffed alpacas congregate at Wooyeon Sujib.

gabled roofs, often with dormer windows. The Seoul Museum of History believes over 300 of these houses remain in Huam-dong. Most are still homes, lived in by Korean families who took over the houses in 1945 or after. Some, however, have been repurposed. One such place is Anarchy Bros (T. 070-4069-6356), a popular café and pub near Sookmyung Women’s University Station combining Japanese woodwork with beam projections of music videos on the wall. The guest house Ji Wol Jang (www.jiwoljang.com) was the site of the specious villa of a Japanese railroad executive. After the Korean War, many families fleeing what is now North Korea settled on the slopes of Namsan Mountain, forming dense communities of narrow alleys and humble homes climbing the hillside, their layers connected by flights of concrete steps. These neighborhoods, once common in Seoul, have largely disappeared from the city. In Huam-dong, however, they remain, even if some of the homes are being converted into cafés and bed-and-breakfasts. As you climb the hills, you might catch a glimpse of Namsan Mountain at the end of a narrow alleyway, or get a panoramic view of southern Seoul with its skyscrapers

Magazine

and rolling hills of homes and offices. Naturally, you can enjoy the best views from the top of the hill — from Namsan Public Library, Yongsan Public Library, the old fortress wall or one of the eateries with open rooftops such as The 100 Food Truck or Oriole (see the Dining and Nightlife sections). Huam-dong has a vibrant outdoor market, too, one blessed with a dramatic location in the shadow of the futuristic Centreville Asterium Seoul apartment complex.

Youthful vibe Though Huam-dong is an old neighborhood, younger people find it an increasingly attractive place to live and work, drawn by the views, the central location, the cozy atmosphere and, of course, the relatively cheap rents. As new cafés and restaurants pop up throughout the area, word of the area’s charms is getting out, especially on social media. This has some locals worried. Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan-gil, the latter now a byword for gentrification, are within walking distance, after all. For now, however, Huam-dong remains mostly residential. Moreover, some of neighborhood’s more

Run by achitectural cooperative Dosi Ogam, Huam Seoje is a shared study and library.

recent arrivals have taken pains to respect the local character and involve residents in their activities. The architectural cooperative Dosi 0gam (www. facebook.com/dosi0gam), formed by a team of young architects, opened its office in the neighborhood in an old house near Huam Market. It also operates two shared spaces — Huam Seojae, a shared study, and Huam Jubang, a shared kitchen where young people who live in the area can cook and share a meal. The cooperative sketches historic homes in the neighborhood, publishes a magazine and sponsors other cultural activities, too. Just down the alley from Huam Jubang Is Café Woorida (T. 070-8886-1210), a tiny renovated space run by a returned local that makes up what it lacks in size with friendliness and delightful concoctions that include double cream mochas, matcha cream lattes and even butter coffee. In a second floor overlooking the rotary in front of Yongsan Middle School, the café Sowolgil Milyeong Take a load off at Café Hooam-dong.

Exploring Seoul

(02-779-1992) offers more than just beverages and baked goods in an exceptionally cozy setting. Its owner, Kim Gyu-wan, a long-time resident of Huamdong, has spent years documenting the neighborhood’s history. His maps and paintings adorn the walls of his café, which also serves as a local salon. Another lovely spot with some local history is Café Hooam-dong (010-2251-8232), on the main road to Yongsan High School. As its name would suggest, the owner really loves the neighborhood, and her café doubles as a local rest spot. The shop roasts its own coffee, too. The more artistically minded should stop by Wooyeon Sujib (02-778-0759), a craft space hidden in an alleyway below the old city walls, not far from the Hilton Hotel. The shop offers classes in a variety of crafts, including string art and lighting crafts. It also teaches classes at local schools. Young creatives are giving Huam-dong a bit of flair, too. A few houses up from Huam-dong Sejae is Mid Century Mood Coffee, a.k.a. MND

Coffee (02-6449-0177), where the design takes its cues from mid-century American hotels. Its Wave Toast, served with lashes of pastel pink or blue cream cheese, draws the Instagram crowd. Man Two Ron (070-7776-3333), a macaron shop run by — sit down for this — two dudes, combines simplicity with a macaron line-up that includes classics and creative experiments such as sweet pumpkin and Injeolmi powder. Hidden in a hole-in-the-wall near Huam Market, I Like Question (ilikeq.co.kr) sells hand-crafted scarfs and hand towels. These shops, and others mentioned in this issue of SEOUL, add a bit of chic to Huam-dong’s earthy grit.

Sookmyung Women's University Station (Line 4), Exit 3. From there, you can catch Bus 202, which takes you to Yongsan Middle School Rotary.

The guest house Ji Wol Jang puts history to good use.

Magazine

Exploring Seoul

하동과 구례

Hadong and Gurye Countryside charms and nature’s beauty await along the banks of the Seomjingang River Written and photographed by Roy Cruz

Magazine

Brightly colored blooms are a sign of spring at Ssangyesa Temple.

Gazing southeast, the sun rises slowly but surely over the horizon. The Seomjingang River’s pristine waters reflect the morning light and draws the eyes, meandering through the mountain ranges of the Jeollanam-do and Gyeongsangnam-do provinces. Another beautiful day begins in Hadong. Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do’s westernmost county, has a wide variety of offerings to those who seek it. Nestled between Jirisan Mountain and the Seomjingang River, Hadong has a beautiful mix of water, plains and mountainous terrain. From this picturesque landscape comes an abundance of sights, smells, textures and flavors to satisfy the senses and soothe the soul.

This, along with the friendly people and a laid-back countryside atmosphere makes Hadong a place where you’ll definitely want to take it slow. Also known as the Korean Alps, Hadong’s diverse terrain has something for everyone all year round. The warmth of spring brings a wide variety of flowers in the region. Visitors flock to stroll among the colorful blossoms and take in their fragrance. For the more adventurous, majestic Jirisan and the surrounding peaks make for great places to hike and explore. Autumn and winter are particularly beautiful in these mountains, bringing fiery colors and sparkling white vistas, respectively. The rice fields of Pyeongsa-ri and Agyang

Travel

Pine trees are reflected on the pristine waters of Dongjeong Lake on the Agyang Plain.

plain turn from striking green to golden yellow hues during harvest time.

Green tea heaven While Boseong and Jeju maybe the first places that come to mind when it comes to Korean green tea, Hadong was actually the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first tea producer. Hadong green tea is wild, dating back over a thousand years ago to the Silla kingdom where monks planted the Chinese tea plants around temple areas. The wild tea spread to other areas in Hwagae and Agyang-myeon, and can be found growing in the valleys to this day. Even in this era of modern machinery, Hadong prides itself Wild tea plants grow abundantly in the Hwagae Valley.

Magazine

Two monks enjoy spring at Hwaeomsa Temple in neighboring Gurye.

36 Mountain roots and herbs are plentiful at the Hwagae Market.

Exploring Seoul

A blacksmith makes tools by hand at Hwagae Market.

on producing high-grade teas using time-honored and traditional processing methods. Green tea is celebrated at plantations and museums around the county, such as the Maeam Tea Culture Museum and the Hadong Tea Culture Center. There are also numerous teahouses along the road to Ssangyesa Temple that offer green tea products and experiences. The biggest green tea celebration, however, happens during the Hadong Wild Tea Cultural Festival every May. Festival participants can get a taste of Hadong’s green tea culture through hands-on experiences, musical performances and more. One particularly interesting place to experience Hadong’s tea culture is a restaurant called Magic of Tea Leaf. Located in Hwagae-myeon across from Ssangyesa Temple’s entrance, Magic of Tea Leaf serves up tea in very creative ways. Meals typically start with tea seed oil, honey and green tea flower wine. Unique side dishes include green tea Korean pancakes, green tea apple pickles, and green tea sauces. Their most popular dishes include steamed samgyeopsal topped with fried green tea leaves and the crunchy fried acorn jelly bibimbap. If you’re just looking for a nice cup of tea, they also have a tea lounge with a great view of the Hwagae Valley. Though Hadong is filled with old-world charm, places like Magic of Tea Leaf add a refreshing, modern twist to the countryside landscape.

All you need at Hwagae Market Hadong’s Hwagae Market is one of the biggest traditional markets in Korea. It is one of the most

Magazine

popular tourist attractions in Hadong County, attracting visitors from all over the country and the world. Dating back to Joseon (1392–1910), this vibrant market has inspired songs, novels, films and even K-pop references. The iconic song by Korean singer Jo Yeong-nam — who actually has a statue in the market) — goes, “Even if it’s just a country bazaar, it has everything I need.” Strolling through the market, the song seems to speak the truth. Here you will find stall after stall of every Korean mountain root and herb imaginable. Browse a bit more and you will find fish, seafood and agricultural products from the surrounding region, as well as restaurants serving local delicacies and, of course, green tea. Other products such as ceramics, cookware, trinkets and handmade tools are also in abundance. One particularly interesting part of the market to this writer is the blacksmith’s shop, whose master craftsman has been making tools by hand for decades. Every spring, Hwagae becomes even more charming as the cherry blossoms turn the surrounding landscape into a snowy white. The road from Hwagae Market to Ssangyesa is known as the Simni Cherry Blossom Road. This dreamy stretch of road is lined with the the delicate trees that signal that spring has indeed arrived.

Ssangyesa Temple Past the cherry blossom trees and the wild green tea fields along the Simni road, you will find the ancient temple of Ssangyesa. The temple was founded in the year 722 by Sambeop and Daebi, disciples of the great scholar-monk

Afternoon tea is prepared at Magic of Tea Leaf’s tea lounge.

Uisang. According to legend, the two disciples were guided to this location by a Jiri mountain spirit, who took the form of a tiger. The name “Ssanggyesa” means twin-stream monastery. Notable treasures in the temple include the enshrined remains of Yuckcho, a patriarch of Zen Buddhism, as well as a monument dedicated to meditation master Jingam, also known as Republic of Korea National Treasure number 47. Ssangyesa is also a central figure in the history of tea in Korea. One story says that the monk Jingam brought tea plant seeds back after returning from his studies in China. He planted the seeds around the temple and in the foothills of Jiri mountain, which resulted in the beginning of tea production in South Korea. There are several different stories regarding the actual events that took place, but there is no doubt that the Korean tea tradition is literally rooted in the fertile land around Ssangyesa Temple.

A fine neighbor A few hundred meters from the Hwagae Market, one can cross the border into the next county and the next province. Jeollanam-do’s Gurye County, Hadong’s Hadong’s wild green tea is a must-try for visitors.

Travel

Hadong has a wide range of accommodations, from resort hotels to pensions, motels and even temple stays. Hadong’s countryside location does not make it any less accessible to online booking sites, making it very convenient for travelers. Hadong’s local specialty is jaecheop, freshwater clams. There are jaecheop restaurants all over Hadong serving the popular jaecheopguk soup or jaecheophoe salad. Also try Magic of Tea Leaf in Hwagae-myeon, which serves unique, tea infused dishes. Fried acorn jelly gives Magic of Tea Leaf’s bibimbap a distinct crunch.

The intercity bus from Nambu Terminal will take you to Hwagae Terminal in Hadong. From there, taxis and buses will be available, but the best exploration is done on foot.

neighbor to the northeast, is similarly alluring. Despite being in another province altogether with a different dialect, Gurye’s proximity to Hadong makes it an essential part of any trip to this area. This farming town also has its share of attractions, one of which is the the annual Sansuyu Festival. This spring flower festival celebrates the bright yellow sansuyu, or cornus fruit that grows all over the province. Gurye is also home to the picturesque temples of Hwaeomsa and Cheon-Eunsa, both wonderful places where Korean spirituality and tranquility are exemplified.

Seoul

Hadong

We wish you health and happiness!

Refreshing Green Shower

DRAGON HILL Spa & Resort

Enjoy these 24 hours a day

A natural leisure space in the heart of the city Dragon Hill Spa & Resort, an urban recreational complex for those seeking healthy lives Selected by CNN as a top

Healing Spa

Cooling Foot Massage

Relaxing Sports Massage

English Info

+82-10-4223-0001

Magazine Japanese Info +82-10-4223-0002

Chinese Info +82-704-222-8888, +82-10-8991-8688 Main Info +82-2-792-0001

1minute away

www.dragonhillspa.com www.facebook.com/dragonHillSpa

2,000 Discount on entry.

2,000 won 39 Discount

Special Feature

A Pioneer Turns 50 Korea’s first semiconductor company, Amkor Technology celebrates half a century by preparing for the future Written by Robert Koehler

Amkor Technology has done a lot in 50 years. Based on the bold — some said crazy — belief that semiconductors were Korea’s future, Amkor became the country’s first semiconductor manufacturer in 1968, a time when few Koreans even knew what a semiconductor was, let alone how to make one. A half century later, Amkor is the world’s second largest provider of semiconductor packaging and test services, a global giant with production, research and development facilities in seven countries. Its products have even been to space. The company owes its success to a deeply ingrained appreciation for quality control. “The people at Amkor put great care into everything we do, and it shows,” says Founder and Executive Chairman James J. Kim. “Our facilities are some of the most advanced in the world when it comes to minimizing defects and maximizing efficiency. Together, we do our best for every customer, helping enable and improve the technology that increasingly impacts all of our lives.” What’s more, Amkor isn’t taking time off in 2018, the 50th anniversary of the company’s founding. Instead, it’s busy preparing for the future with an eye towards becoming a century-old semiconductor manufacturer. At its glistening new research and development facility in Incheon’s Songdo, for instance, automated robots navigate

state-of-the-art clean rooms, managed by automated quality control facilities that ensure a production environment free from defects. Cooperating closely with customers, the company is also developing next-generation technologies suited to the demands of an age of ubiquitous computing and smaller, lighter, more sophisticated devices.

Achieving a bigger world James J. Kim was accepted to the top law school in Korea, which guaranteed a respected career and comfortable life. Instead, brushing aside an enviable future, he opted to go to the U.S. at the age of 19, with the vision of contributing to the economic development of Korea. “My father helped me see the bigger world and have better opportunities. I was and will always be grateful for that,” he said. “Sending a child overseas for better education at that juncture in the Korean history was something that required great sacrifice. I did the best that I could too. I earned my tuitions and living expenses by working in several jobs throughout my school years.” In 1957, Kim, then a student at the prestigious Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania, set off on a tour of the world with his father, inspecting major cities and industrial facilities in the United States, United

As Korea had many people but few natural resources, James J. Kim and his father believed that technology-based industries were a shortcut to national development.

Magazine

Kingdom, Germany, Switzerland, France, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands and elsewhere. Every day was an intense schedule. They were strongly motivated to meet new people and see the new world that inspired them. The trip was indeed well worth the effort because it helped them decide to start the semiconductor business later. As Korea had many people but few natural resources, they believed that technology-based industries were a shortcut to national development. Korea has been ravaged twice, first by the Japanese occupation and then by the Korean War. Kim and his father, the late Kim Hyang-soo, desperately needed to find ways to save the country from hunger and poverty. The late Kim Hyang-soo, in a way, had already made his first attempt by making a company in 1956, Korea Bicycle Industries, Inc., to manufacture bicycle parts. He believed the bicycle suited Korea. The country produced no oil, and bicycling would promote public health. “My father lived his whole life feeling responsible for his people and country and played a pivotal role in the development and industrialization of Korea,” said James J. Kim. “We have always agreed on the importance of making jobs for people, creating prosperity and wealth. I am still carrying out this worthy cause and thankfully, Amkor has grown to more than 30,000 employees worldwide. I will

keep trying my best to take a small but meaningful part in contributing to the prosperity of humanity worldwide, while dedicating myself to the world of business with trustworthiness, reliability and devotion.” In 1967, following a second tour of the world’s industrial facilities, James J. Kim, then an assistant professor at Villanova University in Villanova, Pennsylvania, decided to enter the semiconductor business, a growing and potentially exciting sector. In 1968, he established Amkor Electronics, Inc. in Pennsylvania to handle semiconductor packaging technology, sales and marketing. In the same year, his father purchased a factory in Seoul’s Hwayang-dong district and named it Anam Industrial. There the elder Kim began manufacturing semiconductors. And so Korea’s first semiconductor company was born. The father and the son were partners right from the start and embarking on a business that even Korea’s biggest corporations were hesitant to touch. Few Koreans understood semiconductors at the time. Indeed, only countries such as the United States, with its space exploration and missile development programs, had shown much interest in the sector. They were convinced that semiconductors represented Korea’s best path for development. They believed the technology-intensive and high value-added sector was perfect for Korea, a nation with few natural resources. With a pioneering spirit, they sought to grow an industry that would produce high-tech products, boost exports, expand employment and cultivate skills. Anam Industrial began in 1968 with semiconductor packaging — usually metal, plastic, glass or ceramic — that contains the semiconductor’s electronic components. The company’s semiconductor packaging business succeeded beyond anyone’s imagination. In 1970, Anam Industrial employed just seven people in its semiconductor operations. Just one year later, the number had grown to 140 and to 4,300 by 1975. Soon, the company had acquired a dominating 40 percent market share of the world’s semiconductor packaging market. Anam Industrial’s semiconductor packages even found themselves in the robotic arm of NASA’s space shuttle Columbia in 1982. Of course, the path hasn’t been all smooth sailing. Armed with economies of scale, big Japanese companies entered the semiconductor market in the 1980s, threatening even giants like Intel. Mother Nature could be capricious, too. Destructive floods in 1972, 1984, 1987 and 1990 caused much damage to the factory. Through a combination of wise management and a culture of cooperation with its employees, however, the company has managed not only to survive challenges, but to flourish. The company faced its biggest challenge in the wake of the East Asian financial crisis of 1997. The crisis hit the company hard, threatening its very survival. It took

Amkor Technology is now a true multinational with 19 production facilities and research centers in seven countries

The Chinese characters sinui mean “reliability and trust.” This is Amkor’s corporate motto.

The Total Quality Management is driven by the QualityFIRST initiative that incorporates a variety of preventative strategies, including total production maintenance, best known methods and benchmarking.

The company’s automated production line, a veritable “smart factory,” makes possible a zero defect environment.

James J. Kim five weeks to meet with 600 or so investment bankers from 120 financial institutions in the U.S. and Europe. His arduous work paid off in 1998, when he changed Amkor Electronics, Inc. to Amkor Technology, Inc. and listed it on the NASDAQ, raising more than USD 2.5 billion through an IPO over the next two years. In 1999, the company acquired Anam Industrial’s semiconductor facility in the southwestern city of Gwangju. The year after that, it acquired Anam Industrial’s three remaining semiconductor facilities. It started with a crisis but in a way, it was an opportunity for Amkor to evolve through the stages of growth and spread throughout the world and restructure.

Success through reliability and trust With its headquarters in Tempe, Arizona, Amkor Technology is now a true multinational with 19 production facilities and research centers in seven countries, including China, Japan, Taiwan, the Philippines, Malaysia, Portugal and, of course, Korea. It is one of the world’s leading providers of outsourced semiconductor packaging and test services. It offers more than 1,000 different package formats and sizes, from traditional leadframe ICs for through-hole and surface mounting, to those required in high pin count and high-density applications such as Stacked Die, wafer level, MEMS, Flip Chip, Through Silicon Via (TSV) and 2.5/3D Packaging. The company also provides semiconductor testing services, such as wafer and strip testing, and final, system level testing. In particular, the company offers full turnkey solutions, from semiconductor design to production and delivery. This is especially important when electronics and information technology, including smart phones, artificial intelligence, self-driving cars and the Internet of Things, are rapidly growing smaller, lighter and more advanced, requiring semiconductor packages that can take multiple chips. Though technology is important, even more important to Amkor’s success has been its corporate philosophy. For Amkor, reliability is everything. The corporate motto is sinui, Chinese characters that mean “reliability and trust.” In his autobiography, the late Kim Hyang-soo wrote, “‘The customer is king’ is a belief a corporation must live by. We may profess to have the best quality, best delivery, or best service, but if the customer is not convinced of our loyalty and devotion, we cannot survive and grow.” Amkor boasts a “Total Quality Management” culture, a policy that extends to its suppliers, too. The Total Quality Management is driven by the QualityFIRST initiative that incorporates a variety of preventative strategies, including total production maintenance, best known methods and benchmarking. The company’s automated production line,

Magazine

Amkor’s new, state-of-the-art Global R&D Center and K5 campus in Songdo, Incheon, is the most advanced semiconductor packaging and test facility

a veritable “smart factory,” makes possible a zero defect environment.

Ready for another 50 years At 50 years, most companies would be content to rest on their laurels, satisfied with their achievements and their position in the corporate ecosystem. Not Amkor, though. Based on the experience and global leadership gained over its first 50 years, the company is preparing for the next 50 with the goal of becoming a century-old semiconductor firm, no mean feat in a tech sector defined by constant disruption and change. At the center of this challenge is Amkor’s new, state-ofthe-art Global R&D Center and K5 campus in Songdo, a mere 20 minutes from Incheon International Airport, Korea’s most important logistical nexus. Beginning operation in March 2017, the sprawling complex is the most advanced semiconductor packaging facility in the world, boasting Class 100 cleanrooms and bleeding-edge automated systems such as auto guide vehicles that move wafers and assembly lots from process to process, advanced planning and scheduling, real-time dispatching and material control systems. The center reflects Amkor’s full turnkey solution strategy, handling everything from package design and research to testing and even drop shipping. To meet the demands of the so-called Fourth Industrial Revolution, a movement wedding ubiquitous information

technology to traditional industries, Amkor is working closely with customers to jointly develop packaging technologies for the 5G Internet environment, including 2.5/3D TSV (Through Silicon Via), Homogeneous/ Heterogeneous Integration, Fan-Out Packaging and SiP (System in Package). To boost competitiveness and prepare for the future, Amkor continues to strengthen its automotive capacities and maintain its technological edge. The company is also changing the mindset of its employees, too. This year, all employees attend “5S Day,” where they learn how to maintain and effective and efficient workspace. Through small group activities, they also learn how to make quality control part of their daily lives. Employees are also encouraged to find ways to cut costs and improve productivity. The firm is also establishing a global standard. Amkor is striving to establish production facilities in the world’s major electronics centers, facilities where employees adhere to the “Amkor Global Standard,” offering customers the same high level of services anywhere in the world. Executive Vice President Park Yong-chul, Amkor Worldwide Manufacturing Operations, said, “Continuously growing into a 100-year-old company by perfecting smart factories that are one step ahead by offering distinctive services only Amkor could provide is our goal as it celebrates its 50th anniversary.”

Building a Leader Through Trust and Innovation Amkor Technology Founder and Executive Chairman James J. Kim believes change is crucial to the company’s future

has been involved in every step of the company’s success, from fact-finding trips overseas in the 1950s to the present day. Throughout it all, he has striven to build and strengthen a relationship based on unwavering reliability, on trust not only with customers, but also with employees. “We recognized the employees as an important factor in Amkor’s success,” he says. “Retaining long-term employees allows for long-term growth and sustainability that builds upon our corporate history.”

Innovate or perish

“I have tried my best to implement the necessary changes to survive and adapt to the many challenges we faced during the last 50 years. I have tried to strike the balance between tradition and change. We regarded the relationships with customers and partners as being crucial to the success of Amkor. The mutually supportive relationships based on reliability, trust and dependability were essential to navigating and overcoming the changes and challenges we had to face.” Amkor Technology Founder and Executive Chairman James J. Kim

Magazine

Amkor’s growth mirrors that of Korea’s. When Kim and his father started the business in the 1960s, they had the future of the nation very much in mind. “We considered and were aware of much of the risks that could come along but still wanted to create jobs and establish a foothold for all the Korean conglomerates in the high tech electronic industry,” he says. “We wanted to make the country a strong one and did not want to pass down the hardships and sufferings to the younger generations.” Though the semiconductor industry is a difficult one, with technological advances constantly shortening the life cycle of products, Amkor has prospered because of innovation. In the 1980s, Kim’s brother, Dr. Kim Joo-chai, suggested the automation of the company’s factory. When it was implemented, productivity and product quality improved. Moreover, since the 1980s, the company has been a

technology leader in the industry. Amkor is determined to continue this spirit of innovation over the next 50 years, too, with the new Global Research and Development Center in Incheon’s Songdo as a launching pad. “Unless we continue to innovate and come up with groundbreaking products, we do not have a future,” he says. “The Amkor Global R&D Center & K5 campus will be the cornerstone of our global expansion, offering cutting edge products and technology platforms. The state-ofthe-art R&D center will lead us through the highly competitive market of the semiconductor packaging industry. Now in 2018, we are aiming to surpass what we have achieved over the last 50 years.”

Brighter times ahead As Amkor embarks on its next halfcentury, Kim wants nothing more than sustainable growth for the company. He says that the company not only needs technology, quality and service differentiation, but also should constantly update its organizational structures, foster leadership, transform its corporate culture and ensure global transparency standards. “With all these efforts and competitive advantages by each and every employee and management, we are sure to have a brighter future ahead of us,” he says. “Amkor Worldwide united, we can challenge ourselves to worthy causes and sustainable growth, which will ultimately ensure our continued presence amongst the ranks of best global companies.”

Riding the Tide, Walking the Runway Korea’s ‘first black model,’ Han Hyun-min adds beauty to Korea in more ways than one Written by Hahna Yoon Photographed by 15studio

On his Instagram feed, Han Hyun-min’s fierce facial expressions make it easy to forget that the internationally renowned model is only 16 years old. In real life, however, his shy, mischievous smile immediately betrays his youth. Born to a Nigerian father and Korean mother, Han has made headlines in Al Jazeera, BBC and Vogue as “Korea’s first black model.” Han was also chosen by Time Magazine as one of “The 30 Most Influential Teens of 2017.” Skipping class on a Tuesday afternoon, Han sat down with SEOUL to discuss what it was like to grow up dark skinned in a mostly homogeneous country, his modeling career and how he once dreamt of KRW 300,000 to shop at Uniqlo.

‘You are special’ The oldest of five children, Han knows what it’s like to be part of a big family. Asked if he’s ever received life advice from his mother, he chuckles. “Well, she always says, ‘Don’t get yourself into trouble!’” A second later, he adds, “Oh, but

when I was younger and getting teased, she would tell me, ‘You are special and someday, good things will come your way.’ I know it was hard for her to see what I went through.” Though he doesn’t describe himself as “the oldest brother type,” he gave up on his dream to become a baseball player for fear that it would financially burden his parents. He also wants to protect his younger siblings from facing the kind of discrimination he’s faced.

Past is past Han nonchalantly runs through a list of wrongs that have been committed against him. He was often teased by his fellow students, his friends’ mothers would tell them not to play with him. And throughout his life, many people have considered him a foreigner. “I hated being called a foreigner. I used to think, I was born in Korea and my mom is Korean, so why do I have to be called a foreigner?” With wisdom beyond his years, he adds, “The older I get, the less it bothers me. I’ve told myself that’s just the way it

goes. After all, I guess you can’t just look at my outer appearance and know I’m Korean.” Han, who grew up in the multicultural Itaewon district, considers himself lucky for having been immersed in such an international neighborhood. “I imagine that being biracial outside of Seoul, or even outside Itaewon, would be even harder,” he says. “I can’t imagine that my hardships are anything compared to [multiracial people who grew up outside of Seoul].”

Textile dreams When Han entered junior high school, his interest in fashion piqued. “I had this older friend who had just signed with a major modeling agency,” he says. “That helped me decide what sort of fashion work I should aspire to.” As a teenager with little money, however, Han’s love of clothing was a burden to his mother. “My mom couldn’t buy me as many clothes and I wanted because I had so many younger siblings,” he says. “And I wanted different

Interview

Magazine

for doing so seem to change. “At first, it was simply because I was interested in clothing. Right now, I feel like I want to model because I want to show it’s okay to be different.”

His lucky break Since Han couldn’t afford to go to a conventional modeling school, he learned how to model by watching YouTube videos of Seoul Fashion Week. He also had to pay his dues. He had to pose in Versace underwear during an audition in Milan. He was conned into modeling for an online shopping mall. “I’d been photographed before, but no great images came out it,” he says. Han’s lucky break came when SF Models agent Youn Bum contacted him for a face-to-face meeting in March of last year. Bum had found him on Instagram and wanted to meet him in person. “We met behind the main road in Itaewon. He asked me to walk and signed me right away,” he says. “I couldn’t believe it. It didn’t feel real.” He credits Bum for seeing something in him. “I’m forever grateful for what he’s done for my career.”

“Because the color of my skin is different, there were designers who initially didn’t want to work with me. But the upside is, I was able to develop my own look and brand.”

outfits for different occasions. I asked her to buy me clothes so often that she scolded me for being so superficial.” Nonetheless, Han was determined. “My dream was to have KRW 300,000 to buy clothes from Uniqlo,” he says. “I even worked a part time job distributing flyers at night.” A few years older now, Han says the more he models, the more his motivations

The life of a model Han immediately went on a few photo shoots, debuting not too long afterwards with contemporary casual wear brand Heich es Heich. “I really enjoy modeling. I enjoy being able to try on beautiful clothes and finding a way to express them,” he says. “When I try on an outfit, I imagine who belongs in the outfit. Perhaps one outfit tells the story of an attractive man walking down Manhattan. If another outfit feels like autumn, I try to recreate the season in my mind.” A participant in several Seoul Fashion Weeks, Han describes being on the runway at the city’s biggest fashion event as one of the most exciting experiences in his life. “Being on the runway is like if you’ve just bought a new outfit and

Interview

everyone is waiting to see it. I really like that feeling even though it lasts only 30 seconds.”

Normal kid Han When he’s not modeling, Han tries to attend school as much as possible. He admits that he stopped enjoying studying in the second grade. He says, “I think school is important for meeting friends and socializing but I don’t think studying is for me.” Although Han eventually does want to go to college, he says he isn’t studying for the university entrance exam. While most of his peers spend half their waking hours preparing for the exam, his day consists of school, playing computer games and fashion work. During large commercial shoots and Seoul Fashion Week, he hardly makes it to school at all. Down with apples Despite what some might call a leisurely life free from the usual academic pressures, being a model isn’t easy. “It takes two to three months to prepare for a Fashion Week event,” he says. “I have to lose weight. I have to work out. I have to go to casting calls, auditions and rehearsals.” A lover of soondaeguk, or blood sausage stew, Han explains that the hardest part about being a model is watching what he eats. “A month before Fashion Week, I’ll live on a diet of sweet potatoes and apples. There are days I live on one apple a day,” he says. “But I do eat a lot any chance I get. There are so many delicious things in this world.” The silver lining Han is overwhelmingly positive about his experience as a model in Korea and quick to see the silver lining to any challenge he’s faced. “Because the color of my skin is different, there were designers who initially didn’t want to work with me,” he says. “But the upside is, I was able to

Magazine

develop my own look and brand, which is more important for a model.” He’s also interested in acting. He understands, however, that his Koreanspeaking roles could become limited, despite being a monolingual Korean speaker. “Someone recently told me that if I learned English, I could go to Hollywood,” he says, a glint of excitement in his eye. “I want to learn English and perhaps try my hand at acting abroad.”

What lies ahead Still just a kid, Han is naturally uncertain about much. He seems to have enjoyed his experiences overseas. The selfdescribed Harry Potter fan especially liked London. In particular, he enjoys the diversity he finds in some foreign cities. “When I walk around in Korea, everyone does a double take,” he says. “In places like London or New York, I’m a normal human being. I really liked that feeling.” At the same time, however, Korea is

where Han’s heart is. “I like Korea,” he says. “It’s the place I was born and raised. It’s home.” Han is still glowing with his latest achievements. Last year, he was appointed honorary ambassador for multiculturalism by the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family. “I want to show fellow biracial Koreans that they can succeed even if others have looked down at them,” he says. “As Korea becomes more and more diverse, I hope the environment in Korea can be more accepting.” Han is very happy about the number of his Instagram followers — 146,000 as of April 2018 — and the people he’s reached. “I get messages and comments saying ‘You inspire me’ and ‘You give me courage’ and that warms my heart.” He is humbled by his mention in Time Magazine and vows due diligence. “There’s a Korean saying that goes ‘ride when the tide comes in’ so I think of that and work as hard as I can.”

Timing is Everything Luck is on the side of Huam-dong’s BBQ joint, The 100 Food Truck Written by Jennifer Flinn Photographed by Romain John

Sometimes, success is a matter of timing. Good timing can turn a good concept into a smashing success, while poor timing can turn great ideas into unworkable dreams. Seo Chang-baek’s timing has been impeccable. In the past few years he’s been able to ride one of the biggest trends in food in Seoul, blending together his love of American-style grill and barbeque food with Seoulite’s new infatuation with food trucks in his food truck and restaurant, The 100 Food Truck (or “the Baek Food Truck,” a pun on the “baek” in his name, which is a homonym for 100 in Korean). Seo and his brother, who work as the manager and CEO, didn’t end up going directly into the restaurant business, though. Instead, he went a more conventional route, working for an import

business before becoming a professional restaurateur. But the career shift was also a turn towards his roots, too. “When I was a kid, my mom had a restaurant that served basic meals like pork cutlets, chicken, and the rest. I used to help out. When I was in high school, I even studied cooking for a year to learn how to cook western and Korean food. But when I finished school I thought I had to earn money and so I worked in businesses like imports for over a decade. After all those years, I was bored and wanted a change so I decided to start a Japanese-style croquette restaurant. I learned the recipe in Japan, but after two years, the big company next door where most of our customers came from closed, and with them went most of our business,” explained Seo.

Dining | Chef Interview

Turning hardship into opportunity Some people might have given up, but Seo was undeterred and went hunting for his next big idea. He traveled to America, and found his inspiration there in the food truck culture of New York and California. Seo recalls, “First I went to San Diego, and the downtown area was filled at lunch time with these trucks serving food to business people and sightseers. And when I went to New York, I had my first real burger. There were lots of burger places in Korea but nothing like this place I went to by Central Park. They had a line around the block, so I started thinking about trying to create burgers here.” Once Seo returned to Korea and started working on his recipes, he found an unusual batch of testers at a local crossfit gym. Seo said, “There were lots of foreigners as well as Koreans, so I started trying out recipes on them for four to five months just to get feedback while I was looking for stores. I’d seen the food trucks in the U.S. and wanted to do something like it so we could do catering as well as a small store. About that time the laws were changed in Korea to make food trucks legal to operate.” “Our luck was really good because the movie ‘Chef’ came out about then, so we were able to do some promotions and got our first job catering Cuban sandwiches. We smoke the ham for those sandwiches ourselves, which takes more than ten days. We’ve learned to do so many things ourselves, including making our own ham and bacon. For things like buns that we don’t make ourselves, we work really hard to find a quality version.”

for the view and they don’t really want to order anything. Also, sometimes people are confused how to order. When you come in, you order on the first floor and then go up to find a seat. The server will use your order number to bring you the food, and once you’re seated you can continue to order straight from the server. People can also go up to the roof if they want, but we hope people will come to enjoy the food and not just the scenery.” “Our biggest concern is always the taste of the food. I think you have to think most about the food, and then the other aspects can come after.”

A delicious view Their restaurant isn’t just popular for its food though, thanks to commanding views of downtown Seoul. Seo admits, “Sometimes it’s hard because people just come

45-1 Sinheung-ro 20-gil, Huam-dong, Yongsan-gu | 02-777-3338 Instagram: @the100foodtruck Facebook: www.facebook.com/the100foodtruck

Magazine

The 100 Food Truck

Choice Eats on Namsan

Nestled in the slopes of Namsan’s Huam-dong are some very stylish cafés and delish eats Written by Cynthia Yoo

AVEC EL 아베크엘

The name comes from the French phrase “with him or her.” As the name goes, Avec El is better together because every nook and cranny of the chic café is an Instagram shot in waiting. The café is run by an online shopping site (avec-el.com) and you can shop while enjoying a cup of coffee. Lovely pieces of clothing and accessories are strewn about the space seemingly carelessly, but they are in fact for sale and add to the café’s winsome charm. Both the menu and the interior design are the product of the designer couple

Yongsan-gu 용산구

1F 29 Duteopbawi-ro 69-gil, Yongsan-gu https://www.instagram.com/avec.el/ http://www.avec-el.com

Yongsan-gu 용산구

10 Duteopbawi-ro, Yongsan-gu 02-797-8656 Goobokmandoo.modoo.at

For two years running, Michelin’s Bib Gourmand guide has recognized the delicious dumplings served up at Goobok Mandu. The dumplings follow a two century-old family recipe from China’s Jiangsu province. The shop is small and lines can be quite long because the dumplings are made upon order. The tiny shop has its own “open-kitchen” where you can see the dumplings stuffed, steamed, and served up. The signature Goobok mandu features the “steamed and fried” method, where one

Goobok Mandu 구복만두

side is fried for that crispy texture and the other side is steamed, leaving the dumplings juicy and tender. The dumplings are topped with golden-brown “flowers” made with flour, starch, and lotus root powder. Another customer favorite are the long xiao long bao or “soup dumplings” served in individual stainless steel dishes so you don’t lose out on a single drop of the stuffing. Lines can be long but we hardly have to tell you that the dumplings are worth it. © Robert Koehler

owners, Hwan-Hui Lee and Rozi Park. It’s a labor of love. They make the fruit syrup that goes into the popular fruit teas or lattes. The seasonal cakes are baked on site daily. Even the candles for sale at the shop are handmade. If you beat the long weekend lines and make it into the shop, order their signature Ringo latte or fruit soda with the seasonal spring toast and relax. Slow-down, sip and take in the scenery. Listen to the smooth jazz on play. Soon, you’ll be café’ing the Huam-dong way.

Dining | Dining Out

Chang Surin 창수린 Yongsan-gu 용산구

55 Duteopbawi-ro, Yongsan-gu 02-3789-7625 010 3221 7625

It’s almost unbearably chic and hip at Rawpie Table, a collaboration by the owner-chef Hae-chang Lee and the group of designers and artists at Rawpie Team. Rawpie has a design studio nearby that also rents out its space and services for parties, events and filming. The Rawpie design aesthetic is evident at the restaurant with its eclectic mixture of colors, materials and music. The space is cozy with only four tables, and it’s reservation-only. The dining

Yongsan-gu 용산구

244-67, Huam-dong Yongsan-gu Instagram: @rpt_ownerchef

Rawpie Table 로우파이 테이블

experience is very intimate as the meal is cooked and served by the chef himself. There’s attention to detail here. Each dish is served with a “tag” that describes the dish and its ingredients. An eye for detail is found in the sprig of rosemary tied together with the napkin and cutlery. The signature dish is the gnocchi, described by customers as their “life-gnocchi” (meaning best-ever). Other popular pasta dishes include the lasagna and the pasta bolognese. © @rpt_ownerchef

Magazine

is the som tam, described by Koreans as Thai kimchi. There’s some truth to it as there’s a pungent aroma of the fermented fish sauce in the green papaya dish. The fried rice and pad thai are also crowd favorites, sometimes used to mop up the tom yum kung or to balance the sour and spicy flavors of the som tam. The prices are reasonable, with no dish over KRW 11,000. That’s why it’s best to head there early to beat the lunch or dinner lines.

With only about four tables, Chang Surin is a veritable hole in the wall, but it has earned a reputation for authentic Thai homestyle cooking. The flavors are authentic but also on the mild side, balancing sweet, salty, spicy and sour flavors. A customer favorite is the tom yum kung that balances the spiciness of the peppers with the sour lime, all the while enveloped in the fragrances of the lemongrass, coriander and kaffir lime leaves. Some Koreans liken tom yum kung to kimchi jjigae. And another must-order

Hot and Happening in Huam-dong Experience the energy of one of Seoul’s grittier neighborhoods Written by Agnes Yu Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

Extending across a ridge close to the top of Namsan and sloping downwards towards Seoul Station and Sookmyoung Women’s University, Huam-dong is dotted with entertaining nightlife spots within a very much undeveloped area of the city. Anyone tired of the commercial boom coursing through the main Haebangchon strip can take a village bus to the roundabout and explore the several restaurants and cafés along the alley going west with spectacular, sweeping views of Seoul. For those living outside of Seoul it’s a great location with great nighscapes to check out before hopping on that last train out. Far enough from neighboring Haebangchon to merit a separate visit but close enough to share some of the energy, Huam-dong offers fun venues for a memorable evening out.

Bar Oriole Open now for roughly two years, this second-floor cocktail lounge boasts impressive views of the city while seated at the bar or on the bench along the exterior of the building. With a broad selection of whiskies and spirits and an attentive bartender, the drinks menu won’t leave you wanting. Inside, the café is tiny and it can get rather busy on the weekends, but they do take reservations. Although both spaces share the same name as the Baltimore baseball team’s bird, the first-floor café serves the rooftop and operates independently from the bar. The building is noteworthy for how it’s been remodeled to take advantage of the panoramic views — especially at night. 43, Sinheung-ro 20-gil, Yongsan-gu | 02-6406-5252 | Open daily, 6 p.m.–1 a.m.

Leisure | Nightlife

Makgeolli Dahm Outlasting the test of time this whimsical and earnest makgeolli bar has been in business for 15 years. The venue provides an artsy, kitsch setting to enjoy traditional Korean plates that accompany traditional Korean alcohol. A compact menu includes the typical fare with signature plating and their own secret recipe green sauce. In particular, the generous portion of ddeokgalbi is served like a meatloaf rather than shaped like a patty and pairs nicely with any of the specially selected drink options. Mood lighting and jazz tunes complete the picture-perfect date night. 11-10, Hangang-dae-ro 88-gil, Yongsan-gu | 02-798-6104 | 6 p.m.–3 a.m. daily except Sundays.

Huamdong Side The owner’s dog roams freely in this quaint secondfloor bar that’s super cheap and super friendly. The choices might be limited but they cover all the bases with a basic wine and beer menu alongside simple snacks. Seats by the window have a view of the neighborhood, and at KRW 4,000 for a glass of wine, the prices are affordable. Huamdong, 257-8, 2nd floor | 070-4139-9291 | 7 p.m.–1 a.m. daily except Sundays

Anarchy Bros Cafe & Pub Free wifi and a clubhouse feel distinguishes this hip neighborhood place hidden in the alley behind the main street. Open all day until late, there are plenty of nonalcoholic drinks to choose from as well. There is a cozy attic for semi-private seating along with cubby holes where you can take off your shoes and a mini enclosed outdoor area convenient for smokers. The atmosphere is laid back with a younger clientele and a relaxing place to spend a Sunday evening after dinner. 36, Duteopbawi-ro 1gil, Yongsan-gu | 070-4069-6356 | 12 p.m.–12 a.m. daily

Gil Bar Dak Located inside Shin Heung Art Market, this attractive watering hole is the answer for the moody solo drinker looking for camaraderie in a retro atmosphere. Whiskey, cocktails, beer and wine are all available for imbibing until the wee hours so your evening can last until dawn. This bar just opened last September and is located inside a market on the main road. Stroll down or get on the village bus that will take you through the rest of Huamdong. 26-18, Sowol-ro 20gil, Yongsan-gu | 0507-1404-1166 | 7 p.m.–5 a.m. daily

Magazine

Bookshops on the Hillside Small bookshops add more culture and diversity to Haebangchon Written by Lee Sang-ah Photographed by Robert Koehler

The mini bus grinds up the hill, zigzagging along the narrow alleys. Crammed red brick houses, concrete walls and steep steps grimy with time sprawl out across the hill, as if from a picture book from the last century. In this as yet not gentrified hillside village between Seoul Station and Namsan Mountain, small book shops have recently taken up space, gathering visitors to enjoy a shared experience.

Goyo Bookshop 고요서사 Tucked away among the red brick houses is Goyo Bookshop, which is dedicated to literature. “I opened this store for those who are interested in books but have a difficult time choosing what to read or have no idea what to read,” says owner Cha Kyoung-hee. “I thought books with strong narratives would be accessible to readers.” Her book collection comprises about 1,000 books of poems, essays, and novels. The majority of the books are in the Korean language, but a small number of books in English are also on display. “Foreign customers tend to buy Korean-language books for souvenirs, even though they can’t actually read them. Sometimes they buy Korean versions of their favorite writers’ works, such as Virginia Wolf’s ‘A Room of One’s Own,’” says Cha. Cha also holds workshops to encourage readers to appreciate books in other ways. “I run a workshop called Books and Cork. I select a book, and a sommelier chooses wine in good harmony with the book for the gathering. The participants talk about stories and issues from that book, while sipping a glass of wine. You don’t even need to read the book before coming because we read a part of it together during the workshop,” explains Cha. For those who want to discuss books at a more profound level, Cha also runs a book club with a book critic present. 18-4, Sinheung-ro 15-gil, Yongsan-gu | 010-7262-4226 | @goyo_ bookshop

Leisure | Diversions

Byeolcheck 별책부록 Within walking distance from Goyo Bookshop, is Byeolcheck. At first glance, it appears to be a shop full of design books. “It can look like that way at first, but it is not true,” says staff member Ko Ye-bin. Most books here are published by independent publishers who are free from the formalities of publication. As they can express their thoughts and perspectives without restraint, even the collections of poems or essays that don’t look like traditional books are full of beautiful writing. About 30 percent of their collection is made up collected poems and essays, says Ko. Illustrated books account for another third, and books about photography and architecture, back issues of magazines, second-hand books, and CDs take up the rest of the space on their bookshelves. Those who are not familiar with the Korean language can also enjoy this space. They can skim over illustrated books, photographs and art brochures made by local artists, which can’t be found in chain bookstores. A part of the bookshelves is allocated to books about films — thanks to the owner’s inclination towards film.

Storage Book and Film 스토리지북앤필름 Storage Book and Film, another small bookshop in this village, offers all sorts of independent books representing the variety of publishers’ interests, without regard to genre. For example, there is a lifestyle magazine with ideas on minimizing waste, a film magazine that profiles only villains, and a book of personal records of babies. “I don’t think my bookshop is merely a place for buying and selling books, but a place for sharing culture and personal tastes,” says owner Mike Kang. “I think my bookshop has been able to play the role of a bookshop for independent publishers thanks to those trying to share their personal interests and those willing to appreciate diversity.” These three small bookshops are actively interacting with readers online as well. Check out their social media accounts and websites for opening hours and what they have planned for the day of your visit. And they are worth a visit. A very convenient maeul bus will take you right to them at the top of the hill. 115-1, Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu | 070-5103-9975 | www. storagebookandfilm.com

7, Sinheung-ro 16-gil, Yongsan-gu | 070-5103-0341 | www.byeolcheck.kr

Magazine

Budnamu Brewery Barrels Ahead Gangneung-based brewery makes its mark on the local craft sour beer scene Written by Gloria J. Chang

Walk into Budnamu Brewery in Gangneung, a city off the northeast coast of Korea and home to the coastal cluster of venues for the recently held Olympic and Paralympic Games, and you can’t help but feel you’re in the right place. There’s a certain bunwigi, a vibe, that makes you feel welcome and relaxed — encourages you to drink it all in. “Nobody knew where the brewery was before, but today, if you get in a taxi, most all the drivers know it,” says head brewer Phillip Rankmore. And so they should. Budnamu brews good beer. Housed in a former makgeolli brewery, the owners have retained

key elements of its former life: a drying bed for the rice that was fermented to make the traditional Korean drink, the original steel doors that now lead out into a courtyard and bakery where delicious bread is made, and even some of the former brewing equipment. A large window cut into the concrete stone walls in the accompanying restaurant bar provides a glimpse of the brewing area where 48 wine and whiskey barrels await for the next phase of this brewery’s offerings. “Sour beer is the next step in the evolution of craft beer in Korea,” says Rankmore. And so it is with Budnamu Brewery as well.

Leisure | Drinks Column

Magazine

you operate a barrel program, there’s so much to it, there’s time and patience. It’s so much more difficult and challenging than just making beer.” While sour beers can be made in stainless steel tanks, they are generally one-dimensional in character. When aged in wood — several months to years when it comes to beer — the sour beers take on complex flavors and aromas. Expect Budnamu’s first barrel-aged sour next fall at the earliest. But the barrels you see through the window at the restaurant bar are only the start. “Hopefully Budnamu will be at the forefront of sour beers along with the other people doing it,” says Rankmore. “I really hope to see the sour beer industry in Korea grow.”

Where else to drink locally crafted sour beer? Wild Wave Brewing Co. A brewery that focuses on sour and “wild” beers, Wild Wave Brewing Co. first outsourced its brewing, but built its own brewery a year ago in Busan. Try their kettle sour Surleim and their barrel-aged Surleim Special. The Hand and Malt Brewing Company K-Weisse is Hand and Malt’s take on a traditional Berliner Weisse (a cloudy sour beer) but made with lactobacillus from kimchi. Expect their first-as-yet unnamed barrel-aged sour beer (a ruby red sour ale aged in oak chardonnay wine barrels) this June. Goose Island Beer Co. With its parent company in Chicago, the Korean brewery is located in Gangnam, Seoul. Expect its first kettle sour this July that incorporates a plum puree. Their barrel program is expected to start in a couple of months with a variety of craft sour beers going in barrels.

Rankmore helped launch the craft brewery four years ago when locally made craft beers in Korea was just getting started. After a year-and-a-half stint at Goose Island Brewery in Seoul, he returned to Budnamu last fall to oversee its continued growth and expansion, including a bigger second brewing facility that quadruples production capacity a couple of kilometers away. That meant he could dedicate this current brewery to sour and other experimental beers. Budnamu Brewery isn’t the first to make craft sour beers in Korea. Hand and Malt Brewing Company’s signature beer is a sour made with a lactobacillus isolated from kimchi. Wild Waves Brewing Co. in Busan launched last year with a mandate to focus on sour and “wild beer.” But sour beers are a reflection of the growing and thriving craft beer scene in the country. They’re also a risky production venture that requires a specialized form of brewing. Unlike other modern beers brewed in a sterile environment with the addition of cultured yeasts, sour beers are made by also intentionally allowing bacteria into the brew that needs to be monitored. Which is why many breweries have a separate brewery for their sours. And what exactly is a sour beer? “It’s any beer that’s had bacteria in it that creates an acidic environment with a pH of below 3.5.” In plain English please? “Basically, it’s a beer that tastes sour.” Sourness is relative of course depending on the beer and your palate. Refreshing, fruity, and hard to resist is how I’d describe the kettle sour (made in a stainless steel tank) just recently released by Budnamu. With a very low level of 3.6% alcohol, it was made with the upcoming summer in mind. In line with Budnamu Brewery’s efforts to incorporate local ingredients in their beers, the Hallabong Sour, as it is called, is made with two types of Hallabong oranges from Korea’s most famous island of Jeju. Budnamu’s regular lineup also makes use of ingredients from the surrounding area. Minori Session Ale, inspired by a favourite ale from Phillip’s native home of Australia, incorporates local rice grown in the town of nearby Minori. Zeumeu Blanc, a blonde ale, uses local chrysanthemums. And the Pine City Pale Ale — an extract from the needles of local pine tree for which the city of Gangneung is known. For many, Budnamu’s newly released kettle sour will be an introduction to locally made sour beers in general and other experimental beers Rankmore has planned for Budnamu. “Barrels bring in a whole other aspect of blending into your beer as well,” says Rankmore. “You can sour one barrel (225 litres) and then you can mix that in with another 1000 litres of beer. When

Cinema

Independent, Alternative, International Jeonju Film Festival to showcase five cinema projects Written by Jason Bechervaise Photos courtesy of the Jeonju Film Festival

The 19th Jeonju Film Festival will kick off on May 3 with the world premiere of Chong Wishing’s “Yakiniku Dragon,” about a Korean family running a grilled tripe restaurant in a small village in Japan in 1970. The film is based on Chong’s 2008 award-winning play. Having established a strong reputation for focusing on independent and alternative cinema, the festival will screen a further 245 films covering a range of genres from all over the world, including Armando Iannucci’s political satire “The Death of Stalin,” Michael Haneke’s drama “Happy End” and Kathryn Bigelow’s crime drama “Detroit” and Wes Anderson’s stop-motion animation “Isle of Dogs” will close the event.

From shorts to features Over recent years the Jeonju Cinema Project (JCP) has generated much attention and many of the films have been hugely successful. Formerly known as the digital project, the program was changed in 2014

from shorts to features, a decision that has enabled the festival to leave its mark on the festival circuit. Its first Korean feature projects, Park Jung-bum’s “Alive” and Shin Youn-shik’s “The Avian Kind” both traveled overseas. Last year, Kim Daehwan’s “The First Lap” screened at the Locarno Film Festival where he won best new director, while Kim Yang-hee’s “The Poet and the Boy” screened at the Toronto Film Festival. The success of the projects has meant it is to be expanded from three to five films this year: three Korean features and two films by non-Korean directors. Such a project is of great importance, not least for young Korean filmmakers, as it provides an opportunity for these directors to not only make a feature length film outside the studio system but also a venue in which to screen it to local audiences and professionals from the film industry.

New emerging talent This year, the Korean projects consist of

Lee Hark-joon’s “A Good Business,” Jang Woo-jin’s “On a Winter’s Night” and Lim Taegue’s “The Land on the Waves.” Lee Hark-joon, who began his career as a journalist reporting on North Korean refugees, returns to the topic in his second documentary, “A Good Business,” which follows a Korean pastor who helps two young sisters who have escaped from North Korea. “On a Winter Night” follows a middleaged couple as they visit a famous temple in Chuncheon. Directed by Jang Woo-jin, whose slow burning dramas “A Fresh Start” and “Autumn, Autumn” won awards at the Jeonju and Busan Film festivals, respectively, the filmmaker is part of an emerging generation of talented directors born in the 1980s. Also born in the mid-1980s is Lim Taegue, who helmed “The Seeds of Violence,” which won the Grand Prize in the Korean competition in Jeonju last year. His new drama “The Land on the Waves” focuses on a precarious father-son relationship.

International projects In terms of the overseas projects, the award-winning Chilean filmmaker Alejandro Fernandez Almendras is helming “The Best We Can,” about a Czech theatre director who jeopardizes his marriage when he has an affair with an actress from his latest production. Also from Chile, Camila Jose Donoso is directing “NONA. If You Soak Me, I Will Burn You,” about a woman in self-exile in a small coastal town in Chile who is seeking revenge on her lover. The Jeonju Film Festival runs May 3–12, and more information is available on the festival’s website: www.jiff.or.kr.

Arts & Culture

Vicarious Wanderlust Three travel shows motivate you to hit the road Written by Miruh Jeon

Traveling is one of the best ways to relieve stress, but the whole process of deciding where and when to go on your next trip can end up just adding to the stress. Well, if that’s the case for you, a simple solution might be to tune into a travel show that does a lot of the work for you. For those looking for the perfect travel shows to watch, here are some interesting ones to add to your list.

Traveler’s Room (여행가.방) SkyTV’s “Traveler’s Room” is a great choice for anyone looking to research future trips or to simply travel vicariously through stories retold by travel writers, backpackers and other globetrotters who share tips and interesting facts about a different destination each week. Unlike other travel shows that follow celebrity guests on their latest trips, “Traveler’s Room” is a roundtable of panelists and travel experts who talk about everything from the hottest spots to visit and regional delicacies to architecture and even religion. In one of the episodes, the team takes the viewers on a tour through Cambodia, teaching them the history behind Angkor Wat and introducing them to the famous Pub Street. In another episode, they explore the beautiful city of London and get a taste of one of the best-known dishes of London’s East End — jellied eels. To find out more, be sure to catch “Traveler’s Room” every Wednesday on either SkyDrama or SkyTravel.

budget. So, the hosts of the show are tasked with the responsibility of searching for the best deals — everything from the hottest deals on accommodations to cheap eats and free (or almost free) activities that are still worthwhile. During their trips, each celebrity tour guide or “planner” must present their unique itineraries, which are then given a score according to how affordable and enjoyable the tour, food and lodging are. And to make things more interesting, “attitude” has recently been added to the criteria to look at how kind and hospitable each of the planners is during the trip. If you’re looking for tips on how to save money on your next getaway, make sure to tune into “Salty Tour” on Saturdays.

Battle Trip (배틀트립) KBS’s travel variety program “Battle Trip” is celebrating its two-year anniversary this year with a special trip to Guam. Learn all about the hottest tourist attractions as well as some of the best hidden gems on the island to make your next trip to Guam all the more exciting. Since the show first launched back in April 2016, 160 celebrity guests have explored 78 cities in 29 different countries, and the network has put together some of the most popular vacation packages and useful travel tips into a special travel guide.

Salty Tour (짠내투어) If it’s an unforgettable but affordable trip that you’re looking for, tvN’s “Salty Tour” might come in handy when you’re planning your next getaway. The entire premise of the show is to have the cast plan the best vacation experience possible on a fixed

Magazine

Music

Top Picks For Your Spring Playlist From old standards to indie sleepers, fall into the season with these K-pop treats Written by Kristina Manente

Though the cherry blossoms have come and gone, spring is still in full swing in Seoul, so fill up your playlist with some seriously sweet spring tunes. Stop and smell the flowers while listening to our eight picks for your spring playlist. ‘Flower Road’ BIGBANG It’d be remiss not to include BIGBANG’s latest single, especially given the title. This delightful love letter to fans, released as four of the five members have gone off into the military, is perfect for a spring stroll down your favorite flowery path along the Han River.

‘Spring Sunshine‘ Every Single Day This is the sort of song that you imagine plays in the background as you walk hand-in-hand with your seasonal love along some picturesque backdrop. While that may be fantasy (or reality, hey, go you!), everyone can appreciate this song you can’t help but to sway to.

‘Love Blossom‘ K.Will A seriously feel good song that’ll put an extra spring in your step and make you feel guilty you’ve been sleeping on K.Will and his sweet-as-honey voice.

‘Not Spring, Love’, or ‘Cherry Blossoms’ HIGH4 and IU There are few voices in the industry as clear and sweet as IU’s. Pair that with the unique and underrated voices of HIGH4 and you have a spring duet made in heaven. If you’re feeling a touch lovesick this season, just put this on repeat. It won’t get you a date, but you’ll have some nice tunes at least.

‘Cherry Blossom Ending‘ Busker Busker A must for any spring day, or honestly, any day. Busker Busker’s “Cherry Blossom Ending” echoes from every shop as soon as the buds start to pop and long after, and there’s a good reason. It’s a delightful song that you can’t help but to smile to and sing along with.

‘One Spring Day‘ TAKE The perfect blend of ballad and upbeat, TAKE’s “One Spring Day” is some seriously easy listening with a great match of vocals and lyrics to boot. An acoustic song with a bit of soul, add this one to your playlist to spice things up a bit.

‘Love You‘ SG WANNABE A great uplifting song with vocals that’ll take your breath away. SG WANNABE got a lot of accolades for this song — if it doesn’t make you believe in love again, then it may be all over.

‘Sweet Melody‘ XIA and Ben With possibly the sweetest pairing of voices ever, “Sweet Melody” is incredibly fitting for listening to under the blossoms and strolling down sunny streets.

Arts & Culture

Books

Stories of the City Le Clezio’s ‘Bitna: Under the Sky of Seoul’ reflects the Nobel laureate’s fascination with the Korean capital Written by Barry Welsh

J. M. G. Le Clézio’s new novel “Bitna: Under the Sky of Seoul,” translated into English by Brother Anthony of Taizé, is a relative rarity in terms of Korean fiction. There are not a great many foreign writers writing fiction about Korean life and Le Clezio is almost certainly the most prestigious to have done so. The celebrated French-Mauritian novelist, who has had more than 40 books published to date, is regarded as a living legend in his native France and was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2008. In interviews to promote the publication of “Bitna,” 78-year-old Le Clézio has said that the novel represents the culmination of a long-held dream to write about Seoul. Le Clézio has been a regular visitor to Seoul for over a decade and frequently talks about his obsession with the fast-changing lifestyles and varied inhabitants of South Korea’s bustling capital. He has poured his fascination with the city into “Bitna,” which is structured as a series of linked and interconnected stories about a collection of Seoulites living and trying to get by in various parts of the city. The stories are all linked by 19-year-old Bitna who leaves her hometown in Jeolla-do to study French at a Seoul university. Bitna is initially overwhelmed by the transition from a quiet rural life to a busy metropolitan one. Upon first arriving in Seoul she lives with her aunt and delinquent cousin, but the situation there deteriorates and she quickly moves into a small apartment of her own. Over the course of the novel Bitna has a variety of experiences typical of young student life — she

Magazine

tentatively starts dating, struggles with her course load at university, worries about money and is even harassed by a stalker. Her various experiences serve to highlight different facets of Seoul life. One of the jobs Bitna gets is as a storyteller to a house-bound woman named Salome who has a terminal disease. Salome pays Bitna to tell her stories, and Bitna obliges by telling her tales that reflect yet more aspects of life in Seoul. The first story is about building manager Mr. Cho, who fled North Korea as a child during the war and now trains pigeons to take secret messages back across the border. There’s a story about a cat that delivers messages to people in a neighborhood shopping complex. In another story a young church singer becomes a famous pop star who is exploited by her manager. As Bitna tells her stories, more and more connections accumulate in a kind of tapestry of the experience of Seoul life in various shades of happiness and tragedy. Le Clézio’s novel seems an attempt to evoke the rhythm of various lives being lived across Seoul and there is ultimately something quite touching about the interconnected nature of the stories he tells in “Bitna.”

“Bitna: Under the Sky of Seoul” Written by J. M. G. Le Clézio Translated by Brother Anthony of Taizé Published by Seoul Selection (February 15, 2018) Hardcover: 216 pages

Concerts, Festivals and More THE ART OF AARDMAN ANIMATIONS: WALLACE & GROMIT AND FRIENDS DDP Thru Jul 12 KRW 15,000 www.ddp.or.kr Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Lines 2, 4, and 5)

Entitled “The Art of Aardman Animations: Wallace & Gromit and Friends,” this exhibition is a rare opportunity for visitors to become better acquainted with Aardman Animations, a British clay animation studio that has been around for almost half a century. The exhibition, which will feature a broad range of content, from some of the studio’s earliest works to a behind-thescenes glimpse at its movie production process, opened April 13 at Dongdaemun Design Plaza’s (DDP) Design Exhibition Hall. Aardman Animations’ clay characters, which were painstakingly and skillfully created, hold great appeal among people in today’s digital era and remain incredibly popular around the world for their analog beauty and unique sentiment and plotlines. This large-scale exhibition shows visitors all the work involved in every step of the process of creating a clay animation film, from the drawing stage and sketching to the creation of clay figures and film sets.

WEATHER: HOW IS YOUR WEATHER TODAY? D Museum May 3–Oct. 28 KRW 9,000 www.daelimmuseum.org Take Bus No. 2016 from Hannam Station (Gyeongui-Jungang Line)

The D Museum’s first exhibit of 2018, “Weather: How Is Your Weather Today?” explores the visions of 25 worldclass artists who have turned the dramatic changes of the weather into a medium, featuring photos, video, sound and objet d'art that capture weather’s many faces. Participating artists include British photographer Martin Parr, Japanese photographer Yoshinori Mizutani and German installation artist Ulrich Vogl.

YEON DEUNG HOE May 11–13 Free llf.or.kr Jogyesa Temple, Bongeunsa Temple, Jonggak area, etc.

The Yeon Deung Hoe Festival originated in the Silla era more than 1,300 years ago. It has since been passed down through the Goryeo era, the Joseon era (when it was called “Palgwan Hoe”), and is still an annual tradition today. This traditional festival is designated Intangible Cultural Property of Korea No. 122. By lighting lanterns at the Yeon Deung Hoe Festival, participants brighten their own hearts as well as the world. People flock to Korea from all over the world to attend this festival.

Previews

Korea’s National Intangible Cultural Property No. 122 Yeon Deung Hoe

JONGMYO ROYAL ANCESTRAL RITUAL AND ROYAL PROCESSION Jongmyo Shrine May 6 Free www.jm.cha.go.kr Jongno 3-ga Station (Line 1, 3 or 5), Exit 11

The Jongmyo Jerye, or Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Ritual, is Korea’s Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 56, and its music, the Jongmyo Jeryeak, is No. 1. Together, they have been designated a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. As the biggest and most important memorial service in the Joseon era, the Jongmyo Ancestral Ritual is also called the Jongmyo Grand Ancestral Ritual. The ritual of taking the ancestral tablets of kings and queens was performed five times a year during the Joseon era (spring, summer, fall, winter and in December), but ceased during the period of Japanese colonization and resumed in 1969 as an annual event. During the ritual, the ancestral tablets of the Joseon dynasty kings and queens are taken to Jeongjeon and the greatest of those are carried to Yeongnyeongjeon. The tablets of subjects who performed great services to the kings are enshrined in Gongsindang. Throughout the ritual ceremony, Jongyo Jeryeak is performed with traditional instruments and 64 people dance. Jongmyo Jeryeak is the instrumental music, song and dance invented by King Sejong and adopted for use in the Jongmyo Jerye during the reign of King Sejo.

Previews

Magazine

Lantern Parade

May 12(Sat)

2018 5.11-5.13 www.LLF.or.kr/eng

7:00 ~ 9:30pm Along Jongno Street from Dongdaemun gate to Jogye-sa Temple

Traditional Cultural Events May 13(Sun) Noon ~ 7:00 pm Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

2018 FESTIVAL SCHEDULE WHAT

WHEN

WHERE

Exhibition of Traditional Lanterns

May 11 (Fri) ~ May 22 (Tue)

Jogye-sa, Bongeun-sa Temples / Cheonggye-cheon Stream

Eoulim Madang (Buddhist Cheer Rally)

May 12 (Sat) 4:30 ~ 6:00 pm

Dongguk University Stadium

Lantern Parade

May 12 (Sat) 7:00 ~ 9:30 pm

Jongno Street (Dongdaemun ~ Jogye-sa Temple)

Hoehyang Hanmadang (Post-Parade Celebration)

May 12 (Sat) 9:30 ~11:00 pm

Jonggak Intersection

Traditional Cultural Events

May 13 (Sun) Noon ~ 7:00 pm

Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

Cultural Performances

May 13 (Sun) Noon ~ 6:00 pm

Performance Stage on the street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

Yeondeungnori (Final Celebration)

May 13 (Sun) 7:00 pm ~ 9:00 pm

Insa-dong ~ Street in front of Jogye-sa Temple

Buddha’s Birthday Dharma Ceremony & Lantern Lighting

May 22 (Tue) 10:00 am 7:00 pm

Jogye-sa Temple and all temples nationwide 65

2018 ASIA PROJECT: HOW LITTLE YOU KNOW ABOUT ME MMCA Seoul Thru Jul 8 KRW 4,000 www.mmca.go.kr Ten minute walk from Anguk Station (Line 3), Exit 1

The National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea (MMCA) presents “How Little You Know About Me,” the first in MMCA's 2018–19 exhibition series revolving around the keyword “Asia.” “How Little You Know About Me” is a question we pose to ourselves (“how do we understand Asia?”), and also one that we raise against the images portrayed and labeled as Asia throughout history. In “How Little You Know About Me,” “Asia” does not simply refer to a geographical region or identity — it is a multifaceted critical framework that enables a new way of perceiving the world. Focusing on the role of the artist as the storyteller, the project attempts to elicit the diverse personal experiences of the artists entangled in the geographical locations and contexts. With this approach, “How Little You Know About Me” aims to offer new perspectives through which we view the world, while creating an opportunity to cast light on the values and voices of individuals and communities lost in the recorded mainstream history.

유령팔 서울시립 북서울미술관 2018.4.3—7.8

SeMA, Buk Seoul Museum of Art

Phantom Arm

강정석 Kang Jungsuck 박아람 Rahm Parc

전시실 1, 프로젝트 갤러리 1

김정태 Gim Jeongtae

김동희 Kim Donghee

Exhibition Hall 1, Project Gallery 1

람한 Ram Han

압축과 팽창 CO/EX

PHANTOM ARM

SEOUL DRUM FESTIVAL 2018

SeMA, Buk-Seoul Museum of Art | Thru Jul 8 | Free | sema.seoul.go.kr | Hagye Station (Line 7), Exit 1

Oil Tank Culture Park | May 19 | Free | seouldrum.go.kr | World Cup Stadium Station (Line 6), Exit 2

“Phantom Arm” illuminates the rapidly changing creative environment through the widely spread Internet and other science technologies, thereby exploring the ways in which such changes influence the method of artistic representation and evoke new artistic senses and thoughts. The artists of this exhibition, who are essentially based in digital media or their artistic environment, present how specific settings such as “account settings,” “non-spatiality,” and “oblivion and augmentation of body” affect and embody the works of art.

Seoul Drum Festival 2018 will take place in Seoul Plaza for two days from Friday, May 25 and May 26. It will be held under the slogan, “You must feel your heart race or else it ain’t a festival.” During this festival, visitors can enjoy performances by world-renowned drummer Benny Greb, living electronic drum legend Michael Schack and other internationally well-known drum teams.

Previews

Exhibition MMCA Seoul 2018 Asia Project

How little you know about me Exhibition introduction

HOW LITTLE YOU KNOW ABOUT ME is the first exhibition in MMCA 2018-2019 Programme initiated with the key word of "Asia." It is a question we ask ourselves (“how do we understand Asia?”) and also one that we inquire about the images portrayed and labeled as Asia throughout history. In this exhibition, “Asia” does not simply refer to a geographical region or identity – it is a multifaceted critical framework that offers an alternative way of looking at the world. Focusing on the role of an artist as a storyteller, the project attempts to elicit personal experiences of artists entangled in geographical locations and contexts. HOW LITTLE YOU KNOW ABOUT ME aims to cast light on individual values and voices of communities often disregarded in mainstream history.

HANGANG SPRING FLOWER FESTIVAL 2018 Hangang River | Thru May 20 | Free

Hangang Spring Flower Festival 2018 will take place throughout the banks of the Hangang River through May 20. Visitors can enjoy the view of forsythia, cherry blossoms, canola flowers, multiflora roses and roses as they walk along the paths. Many different events based around the theme of spring flowers will be held throughout the festival period, giving visitors many ways to enjoy their trip to the Hangang River in the coming spring months. In particular, you’ll want to see Banpo Hangang Park’s Seoraeseom, Hangang Park’s premier spring flower destination. In May, the island is covered in golden rapeseed blossoms. The Hangang Seoraeseom Canola Festival will open on May 5–6 to make for an alluring contrast between the deep-blue Hangang River and the crisp yellow of the Seoraeseom Island.

Period April 7, 2017 – July 8, 2018 Venue Galleries 1, 2, 3, 4 and communal spaces Artists Timoteus Anggawan Kusno, Yogesh Barve, Zhang Xu Zhan, Tao Hui, Jihye Yeom, Yusuke Kamata, Elia Nurvista, Yuri An, Martha Atienza, Po Chih Huang, Mark Salvatus, Hikaru Fujii, Map Office, Ruangrupa+Serrum, 98B Collboratory (15 artists/groups) Entrance Fee 4,000won(For all exhibition at MMCA Seoul) Program schedule & Contact & Location www.mmca.go.kr/eng

MMCA Deoksugung

Birth of the Modern Art Museum Art and Architecture of MMCA Deoksugung

Exhibition introduction

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the opening of the Deoksugung venue of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, as well as the 80th anniversary of the building’s original construction in 1938, from a designed by Japanese architect Nakamura Yoshihei. To commemorate these occasions, MMCA organizes this special exhibition to explore the history of its modern art collections. Also, for the first time, the museum is showing the original architectural drawings and related documents that were discovered in Japan in 2014. We hope that this exhibition will enhance our visitors’ appreciation of the treasures of Korean modern art that have survived the turmoil of history to become invaluable cultural assets for everyone to enjoy. Period Venue Artists

May 3, 2018 – October 14, 2018 All Galleries at MMCA Deoksugung An Jungsik, Ko Huidong, Oh Jiho, Kim Whanki, Park Sookeun, Lee Jungseob, and more

Entrance Fee 3,000 won (includes entrance to Deoksugung Palace) Program schedule & Contact & Location www.mmca.go.kr/eng *Close on Monday

MMCA Gwacheon The artists 100th birthday

Rhee Seundja Road to the Antipodes

SWAN LAKE

Exhibition introduction

The exhibition, Rhee Seundja: Road to the Antipodes, which marks the 100th anniversary of Rhee’s birth, is organized as a part of special exhibition of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea to focus on women artists, beginning with the exhibition, The Arrival of New Woman, held in MMCA, Deoksugung. When many Korean artists dreamed of working in France in the 1950s. Rhee Seundja (1918~2009) was the first one to go to France by herself and learned the basic of painting. She was recognized as an artist in France earlier rather than Korea, and also her work was collected first by the French. She passionately spent 60 years, creating oil paintings in Paris, prints in Tourrettes, and ceramics in Korea.

Seoul Arts Center | May 27–29 | KRW 70,000–250,000 T. 02-599-5743 | Ten minute walk from Nambu Bus Terminal Station (Line 3), Exit 5

The symbol of Russian culture, the Bolshoi Ballet, with its internationally renowned Bolshoi Theatre Orchestra, will return to Korea together for the first time in 23 years. For the upcoming performance in Seoul, the Bolshoi will perform one of the core classical ballet repertoires, “Swan Lake.”

Period March 22 – July 29, 2018 Venue Gallery 2, Main Hall Artists RHEE Seungdja Entrance Fee 2,000won Program schedule & Contact & Location www.mmca.go.kr/eng

Magazine

<AD>

*Close on Monday

Expat Buzz MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON

YONGSAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF SEOUL’S INTERNATIONAL BAZAAR You are invited to come and enjoy a wide variety of delicious food and cultural performances from around the world at the YISS International Bazaar on Saturday, May 12 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Shop for new or used items or participate in the exciting prize raffle. There is something for everyone, so mark your calendar and don't miss this major community event. To learn more about the International Bazaar and other YISS PTO events, go to www.yisspto.org. www.yisseoul.org T. 02-797-5104 YISS is located at 285 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, near Hangangjin Station (Line 6), Exit 1. SIWA: RUMMIKUB CHALLENGE May 3 Hongdae Rummikub is a tile based game combining elements of rummy and mahjong. In Korea this game

became very popular. In fact there are Rummikub cafés in fashionable areas for young adults. KRW 10,000 for members, KRW 20,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com

SIWA: HISTORIC JEONG-DONG NEIGHBOURHOOD May 4 Jeong-dong

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: 3-DAY ISLAND GETAWAY, NAMHAE ISLAND, GREEN TEA, BONFIRE BEACH & YOGA May 4-7 South coast Join the Seoul Hiking Nature Group for a three-day trip to Korea’s southern coast, including Namhae, the green tea fields of Boseong and more. KRW 127,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: 3-DAY TRIP TO BUSAN May 4-7 Busan For three days in May, a very rare long holiday, the Seoul Hiking Nature Group will take you to Busan to tour its iconic places. KRW 149,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

Jeong-dong is a very picturesque, historic and quieter neighborhood

“Brighten your Smile, Brighten your Life” International Prosthodontics & Implants Dental Clinic.

just on the western side of downtown Seoul, filled with architectural treasures exemplifying the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, as the Joseon Dynasty came crashing down under pressures from many foreign imperial powers, and saw the beginning of the tragic formal Japanese Colonial takeover of Korea. KRW 15,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com

CERECTM is a cutting edge CAD/

CAM system for providing all-ceramic restorations in a single visit. Patients receive custom, hand-crafted inlays, veneers, crowns & bridges in our clinic.

Cerec Doctor : One-visit IP&I is a name you can trust.

Dr. Paik, Sung ki

dentistry. Over 6,000 restorations since 2005. Korea’s leading Cerec specialist. Serving our patients with customized, doctor’s hand-crafted restorations.

DDS, MSD, Ph. D Member of American Prosthodontic Society

68 Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite #306, 2gil 7 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-140 KOREA Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr

SIWA: GOLD LEAF IMPRINTING WORKSHOP May 10 Near Anguk Station Make your own Geumbak or gold leaf imprint, in a traditional Korean Hanok. KRW 10,000-60,000 (members only) www.siwakorea.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: CANOEING & HIKING, CHUNCHEON DAKGALBI, SOYANG LAKE FERRY, CHEONGPYEONGSA TEMPLE May 12 Chuncheon The Seoul Hiking Nature Group will go on a day trip of peaceful beautiful canoeing and hiking in Chuncheon on a beautiful spring day. KRW 49,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

RASKB: TEA-MAKING, TEMPLES AND FOOD IN JIRISAN MOUNTAIN TOUR May 12-13 Jirisan Mountain This annual visit to an individual teamaker offers a unique opportunity to participate in the processes by which tea is made, and to taste freshly-dried tea in the beautiful surroundings of Jiri-san mountain, as well as sampling some delicious local food. KRW 215,000 for members, KRW 235,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

KIWI CHAMBER

DDP

NEW ZEALAND WINE FESTIVALS ARE BACK

2018 SEOUL AFRICA FESTIVAL

Kiwi Chamber celebrates 10th anniversary of event in Seoul, sixth year in Busan under theme “Pure Discovery New Zealand Wine” The New Zealand Chamber of Commerce in Korea, known as “The Kiwi Chamber,” will host its annual New Zealand Wine Festivals in Seoul on Saturday, May 26 and in Busan on Saturday, June 2. Both events will run from 4:00 to 8:00 p.m. Celebrating the 10th anniversary of the wine festival in Seoul, this year’s event will once again be held at the scenic outdoor waterfall garden of the Grand Hyatt Seoul, while the sixth Busan edition will venture to the new Ananti Cove Resort, a majestic property located just up the coast from Haeundae Beach. Under the theme “Pure Discovery New Zealand Wine,” the two New Zealand wine festivals will offer wine connoisseurs a selection of quality reds and whites from over 20 of the country’s top vineyards. The theme inspires all guests to return to the roots of “Pure New Zealand” and experience the true meaning of oenophilia—the love of wine.

SIWA: BONGEUNSA, ONE OF SEOUL’S GREATEST TEMPLES May 18 Bongeunsa Temple

The 2018 Seoul Africa Festival will be held from May 18–20 at Dongdaemun DDP's Miraero. The Seoul Africa Festival, which has promoted Africa's cultural diversity since 2016, welcomes its 3rd edition this year. The Seoul Africa Festival provides an opportunity for the public, which does not know Africa well, to experience and understand African cultures and characteristics in a more friendly and intimate way. The festival features an African fashion show with diverse colors, a market and a variety of performances.

Bongeunsa is one of Seoul’s most important Buddhist temples - and one that is unusually easy to get to. KRW 15,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com

info@seoulafricafestival.co.kr Dongdaemun DDP Miraero May 18-20

Tickets for the individual events are KRW 100,000 for Kiwi Chamber members, KRW 120,000 for non-members and KRW 130,000 for at-door purchases. Group discounts are also available for 100,000 won per ticket for groups of eight or larger. For more information and registration, please contact chamber@kiwichamber.com or visit us at www.kiwichamber.com. SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: TAEAN NATIONAL PARK, TULIP FESTIVAL, SUNSET SPA May 13 Taean, Chungcheongnam-do Join the Seoul Hiking Nature Group for a tour of Taean’s beautiful coast, including its sand dunes, cliffs and sunset beaches. KRW 32,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

Magazine

RASKB: JEJU 4.3 IS NOW OUR HISTORY May 16 Museum of Contemporary History in Seoul The special exhibition marking the 70th anniversary of Jeju 4•3 is designed to illustrate the historic events by displaying historic artifacts, personal effects of the deceased, and related works of art, which were collected based on information contained in the Report on the TruthFinding Investigations of the Jeju 4•3 Incident. Free (But reservation required) www.raskb.com

BASS: THE QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY DINNER May 18

Four Seasons Hotel

KOREAN KEYWORD

EOMGEUNJIN

엄근진

Kim Eun-jung, the skip of South Korea’s women’s curling team, won the Internet with her game face during the PyeongChang 2018 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, her cold look of determination becoming the face that launched a thousand memes. “Everyone knows athletic achievements are never enough to spin internet gold on their own,” wrote U.S. magazine TIME. “It’s Kim’s game face and extreme focus that have been scoring points with people around the world online. Top that game face off with her aesthetically superior eyewear, and she has officially rolled forward to become a fan favorite.” Kim’s performance earned her a new nickname, Eomgeunjin, a portmanteau of three Korean words that mean much the same thing: eomgyeok, or strict or severe; geuneom, which means stern or grave and jinji, or serious or earnest. As you can probably guess, it’s refers to the cold, unchanging expression she wears when focused on the task at hand, in this case, the task of sliding stones along a sheet of ice. The word had been used before, but Kim — and her legions of fans — have brought it into common usage. Kim’s expression isn’t the only thing that got people talking. Kim’s other nickname, Angyeong Seonbae, refers to the prominent pair of glasses perched upon her nose. Truth be told, popular entertainment has not been kind to the bespectacled, especially women, but Kim may have gotten something started. Recently, MBC got people talking when one anchor, Im Hyeon-ju, did a broadcast wearing glasses. Might change be on the way? We’ll see ...

Come and join the BASS tables for The Queen’s Birthday Dinner (QBD) which is the largest and most prestigious annual dinner celebration of the British community in Korea, which will both honour the 92nd birthday of Queen Elizabeth II and helps to raise funds to support BCCK's charitable organisations. KRW 160,000 www.britishseoul.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: FOUR DAYS IN JEJU May 18-22 Jeju The Seoul Hiking Nature Group will spend four magical days in Jeju in May. This is a trip not to be missed. KRW 305,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: SEOUL FORTRESS WALL May 20 Naksan Mountain Join SIWA friends for a hike over Naksan Mountain from Hyehwamun Gate to Gwanghuimun Gate. KRW 5,000 for members, KRW 15,000 for non-members www.siwakorea.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: SEORAKSAN NATIONAL PARK AND EAST SEA May 25-27 Gangwon-do Seoraksan National Park will open all the trails to the summit in May, so Seoul Hiking would like to invite you to enjoy some hiking. KRW 87,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: STUNNING SEORAKSAN OVERNIGHT AT HIGHEST TEMPLE May 26-27 Seoraksan National Park This is a special trip to hike and follow Buddhist pilgrims to the highest temple in Seoraksan National Park, staying a night at Bongjeongam Hermitage. KRW 88,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

RASKB: HANOK HISTORY AND PRESERVATION WALKING TOUR May 27 Bukchon, Seochon, Ikseondong On this excursion, the RASKB will visit all three neighborhoods and focus on how preservation efforts have affected the design of Hanoks since they began in the early 2000s. KRW 20,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

RASKB: LESBITRANS MIGRANT LIFE IN SOUTH KOREA May 29 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace American sociologist Chelle Jones examines LesBiTrans migrant life in Korea. Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

‘Hair in its Natural State’

Quno Hair

served as Art Director at London’s renowned Rush Salon and nominated by the Guardian for ‘Best Hairdresser’ EXPAT BUZZ Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm. Magic Straight & Treatment Highlight &Lowlight...etc English Spoken

Gangnam/ Apgujeong Branch 02-549-0335 www.qunohair.com www.hairandjoy.com

HAIR & JOY

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNIQLO (1F)

coco bruni About Me

NH Bank

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

For more info, call Johnny Expat Buzz

Phone : 02-363-4253 Mobile : 010-5586-0243

SEOUL

CAFÉ TTEURAN Café Tteuran is the first Hanok teahouse in the historic Ikseon-dong area, an increasingly popular neighborhood of old Korean-style homes. It serves medicinal teas made from the best ingredients and excellent red bean porridge and patbingsu made with the finest Korean red beans. Be sure to check out its lovely courtyard garden. 166-76 Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu T. 02-745-7420, @café_innergarden (Instagram)

NETWORK

GANGNAM-UC RIVERSIDE (GNUCR): ENGLISH, KOREAN, CHINESE CLASSES

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: PLAY KIDS PACKAGE

Study English in the heart of Gangnam and earn University of California credit, transcripts, and certificates! Or brush up on your Korean with GNUCR’s Korean classes provided by Seoul National University. If Chinese is more your thing, GNUCR’s got that, too. Join the more than 20,000 students who have studied at GNUCR since the school’s opening in 2001. Call today.

Bring your kids and enjoy a relaxing day at Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel with “Play Kids Package.” This package includes tickets for “Apple Kids Club,” which is located under the hotel building, connected to the Hyundai Department Store. The price starts from KRW 66,000 (inclusive of tax) per adult.

www.gnucr.kr | Gangnam-gu Office Station 강남구청역, Exit 1 | info@gnucr.net | Kakao: @gnucr |

02-546-3260

DR. ROBBIN Dr. Robbin offers healthy, delicious salads, pizzas, soups, pasta dishes, coffees, fruit juices and homemade gelato prepared from carefully selected natural ingredients. We use no sugar, butter or artificial enhancers. Try the Green Pasta, served with a bean cream sauce made from local beans and cooked using organic olive oil from Italy. It also uses a sugar-free syrup produced from stevia leaves, a zero-calorie sweetener that’s much sweeter than sugar. www.drrobbin.com

Magazine

IMPERIAL PALACE SEOUL: BLOOMING PACKAGE Enjoy a break away from the every day with the Imperial Palace Seoul’s “Blooming Package.” Stay a night at the hotel, and along with restaurant coupons, you’ll get a 150mm bottle of Eau Thermale Avène, guaranteed to protect your sensitive skin. T. 02-3440-8000 | www.imperialpalace.co.kr

SHERATON GRAND INCHEON HOTEL: ROMANTIC PROPOSAL PACKAGE The “Romantic Proposal” package includes a one-night stay at the Executive Suite, where exotic views of Songdo city can be enjoyed. For the proposal event, a dinner course for two at the Italian restaurant BENE, along with a decent bottle of wine, will be ready. For guests staying at the Ambassador Suite, an exclusive dinner course and a bottle of wine will be served directly to the room. A romantic bouquet will be ready on the dinner table for the moment of tears and joy. The Spring Picnic at Songdo package is available thru May 31, starting from KRW 179,000, exclusive of service charge and V.A.T. For inquiries or reservations, call T. 032-835-1004.

Expat Buzz

반도체

50년, 희망의 100년 The Air Gets Purer at Starbucks Coffee shop to expand its unique air purification system nationwide

OLD IS NEW AGAIN

HUAM-DONG

HADONG AND GURYE

Young entrepreneurs use old buildings to give Seoul new life

The hillside neighborhood on the southern slope of Namsan Mountain is a layered community

Countryside charms and nature’s beauty await along the banks of the Seomjingang River

AMKOR WORLDWIDE PRESENCE Strategically Located Factories and Customer Support Centers Amkor Headquarters

Sales/ Customer Support Center

Munich, Germany Archamps, France

ISSUE NO. 178

Porto, Portugal

Assembly & Test Facility

Seoul, Korea

Sales/ Customer Support Center & Assembly & Test Facility

Incheon, Korea(Global R&D Center) Gwangju, Korea

Japan-Fukui, Fukuoka, Hakodate, Kitakami, Kitsuki, Kumamoto, Oita, Usuki

Beijing, China Shanghai, China

Tokyo, Japan

Irvine, CA San Diego, CA

Zhubei City, Taiwan

MAY 2018

Shenzhen, China

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

San Jose, CA

Boston, MA Tempe, AZ Dallas, TX Austin, TX

Lung Tan Township, Taiwan Hsinchu, Taiwan

Singapore

Muntinlupa City, Philippines Binan Laguna, Philippines

WHO WE ARE MAY 2018

Opening ceremony for Amkor Global R&D Center and K5 campus.

W 5,000 / US$ 5.00

ASSEMBLY With global high-volume manufacturing, Amkor assembles a broad portfolio of packaging solutions including wirebond and flip chip using Pb-free and green packaging.

NO. 178

ISSN: 1599-9963