Wozupi Planting Guide

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Planting Guide


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Annuals, Perennials & Grass


General Perennial Planting Tips • Plant perennials as soon as possible. If you aren’t able to plant right away, be sure to keep the plant watered. • Prepare the planting bed. Loosen and turn the soil under to a depth two times the height of the pot. Remove large clumps and rocks. Add peat moss or compost as needed. • Dig the hole for each plant a little larger than the root ball. Loosen the plants roots and set each plant with the crown even to the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with fine soil and press lightly around the plant. •Water the plants gently and frequently until established.


HERBS


Basil Spacing 4”- 8” Light Full sun Bad Companions Beans, cabbage, cucumbers Rotation Considerations Avoid rotating with marjoram or oregano.

Chives Spacing 6”- 8” Light Full sun to partial shade Bad Companions Beans, peas Rotation Considerations Avoid rotating with members of the onion family.


Cilantro Spacing 6”- 8” Light Full sun to partial shade Bad Companions Tomatoes Rotation Considerations Avoid rotating with the carrot family.

Lemon Balm Spacing 12” Light Full sun to partial shade Use Makes wonderful tea, garnish, bug repellent, and potpourri.


Oregano Spacing 6”- 8” Light Full sun to partial shade Rotation Considerations Avoid rotating with marjoram and basil.

Parsley Spacing 6”- 8” Light Full sun to partial shade Rotation Considerations Avoid rotating with carrots, celery or parsnip.


Sage Spacing 12”- 18” Light Full sun to partial shade Bad Companions Cucumber Rotation Considerations Avoid following with basil, cucumber, marjoram or oregano.

Thyme Spacing 6”- 8” Light Full sun to partial shade


Dill Spacing 12”- 15” for full growth with blooms Light Full sun Rotation Considerations Follow beets

Calendula Spacing 24”- 36” apart in all directions Light Full sun to partial sun Rotation Considerations Pull off seed heads or it will drop seeds and resow itself


Mullein-Olympicum Spacing 12”- 16” Light Full sun or partial shade Rotation Considerations Can be direct sowed or transplanted

California Poppy Spacing 6”- 8” Light Full sun or partial shade Rotation Considerations Can be direct sowed or transplanted


Echinacea Spacing 24� Light Full sun Rotation Considerations Can be direct sown but prefers to be transplanted

Lavender Spacing 24� Light Full sun to partial sun Rotation Considerations Transplanting is recommended


Peppermint / Spearmint Spacing 6” Light Full sun to part shade Rotation Considerations Perennial spreads quickly and can be invasive. Consider container growing.

Chickweed Spacing 8”- 12” Light Full sun to part shade Rotation Considerations Best to be direct sowed. Can be transplanted. Sow in early spring or in pots.


St. John’s Wort Spacing 16”- 24” Light Full sun Rotation Considerations Can be direct sowed or transplanted. Sow in early spring

Feverfew Spacing 12” Light Full sun Rotation Considerations Can be direct sown but prefers to be transplanted


Valerian Spacing 12�- 24� Light Full sun to partial shade Rotation Considerations Best to be transplanted



Vegetables


Broccoli Spacing 16” staggered pattern Light Full sun is best. Partial shade tolerated. Bad Companions Strawberry, snap bean, pole bean Rotation Considerations Avoid following with cabbage family plants.

Brussel Sprouts Spacing 16”- 18” staggered pattern Light Full sun is best. Partial shade tolerated. Bad Companions Kohlrabi, pole bean, strawberry Rotation Considerations Avoid following with cabbage family plants.


Cabbage Spacing 12”- 18” Light Full sun is best. Partial shade tolerated. Bad Companions Strawberry, pole bean, tomato Rotation Considerations Avoid following with cabbage family plants.

Cucumber Spacing Trellised 18”, Ground 36” Light Full sun Bad Companions Aromatic herbs, potato Rotation Considerations Avoid rotating with other cucumber family members.


Eggplant Spacing 18� staggered pattern Light Full sun Bad Companions Fennel Rotation Considerations Follow with beans or peas.

Ground Cherries Spacing 2.5’ Light Full sun Bad Companions Pole bean, dill, fennel, potato Rotation Considerations Avoid following eggplant, potato, pepper, tomatillo or tomato.


Kale / Collards Spacing 16” Light Full sun is best. Partial shade tolerated. Bad Companions Pole bean, tomato Rotation Considerations Avoid following cabbage family crops.

Kohlrabi Spacing 6”- 8” staggered pattern Light Full sun is best. Light shade tolerated. Bad Companions Pole bean Rotation Considerations Avoid following with cabbage family plants.


Leeks Spacing 6” Light Full sun is best. Light shade tolerated. Bad Companions Bean, pea Rotation Considerations Avoid following onion, garlic, shallots, or chives.

Lettuce Spacing 8”- 12” for smaller varieties, more for larger varieties Light Full sun best. Light shade tolerated. Rotation Considerations Avoid following with radicchio, endive, escarole, or artichoke.


Melons Spacing 16” Light Full sun Bad Companions Potato Rotation Considerations Avoid following with cucumber, pumpkin, summer squash, or winter squash.

Onion Spacing 4”- 6” Light Full sun is best. Light shade tolerated. Bad Companions Asparagus, bean, pea, sage Rotation Considerations Follow squash or lettuce. Avoid following onion or legume family crops.


Summer Squash Spacing 18”- 24” Light Full sun Bad Companions Potato Rotation Considerations Avoid following winter squash, pumpkin, cucumber, or melon.

Swiss Chard Spacing 4”- 5” staggered for entire plant harvest 8”- 10” staggered for outer leaf harvest Light Full sun is best. Light shade tolerated. Bad Companions Beet, spinach Rotation Considerations Avoid following beet or spinach. Do follow legume family crop.


Tomatillos Spacing 2.5” Light Full sun Bad Companions Pole bean, dill, fennel, potato Rotation Considerations Avoid following eggplant, potato, pepper or tomato.

Tomato Spacing 15” unsupported, 24” supported Light Full sun Bad Companions Pole bean, dill, fennel, potato Rotation Considerations Avoid following potato, pepper or eggplant.


Winter Squash Spacing 18”- 24” Light Full sun Bad Companions Potato Rotation Considerations Avoid following summer squash, tomato or melon.

Peppers Spacing 12”- 18” Light Full sun Bad Companions Small children, fennel, kohlrabi Rotation Considerations Avoid following tomato, potato or eggplants.


Fruits & nuts


Care for Bare-Root Trees The bare-roots of your tree(s) have been packed in a mixture of moist paper shreds, peat moss or hydrating gel. This will help roots stay moist. Still, it is to the responsibility of anyone storing, transporting and planting bare-root trees to monitor and maintain moist bare-roots. For best results, plant trees as soon as possible. If you must store for a few days, at a minimum, trees should be kept out of direct sunlight and roots kept moist. A garage may work well as a temporary holding space. Ideal conditions are dark, cool temps (optimum 38-45 degrees Fahrenheit) and high humidity. If trees must be stored for a prolonged period of time, consider planting into a pot or heel into the ground in a shady area.


Site Selection When selecting your site, consider the size of your tree at maturity and the sun hours it will get, moisture levels, nearby structures, plant or weed competition, and wildlife. Sun Requirements: Trees may survive in partial sun, but require a minimum number of sun hours to produce flower buds and fruit. Most trees calling for full sun should have a minimum of 6 hours. If sun hours are questionable, you may need to check your site several times through out the day to observe sun patterns. Well Drained Soil: Conduct a simple drainage test to ensure roots will not get “wet feet.� Dig a hole 12 inches deep and fill it with water. Water should drain away at roughly 1/2 inch per hour and be completely drained after 24 hours. Results may be inaccurate after heavy periods of rain. Before you select your site and start digging, contact the agency responsible for locating utilities to mark utility lines.


Planting -Dig hole large enough so that roots do not need to bend to fit in the hole. -Prune away any broken or damaged roots. If there are any extra long roots, you can prune them shorter instead of wrapping them around the hole. -Plant plants deep enough so that the crown of the roots are buried. Also, ensure the graft union is not at or below the soil surface. It should be at least 2 inches above the soil surface. The graft union will look like a seam at or near the base of the tree and may bulge slightly. -Hold the tree erect in the hole. Make sure it is straight from all angles. Angle any largest, strongest branches towards the prevailing winds. -Back fill with original soil evenly around the roots to minimize air pockets. Lift slightly up and down to help soil settle in. -When hole is 3/4 full of soil, water thoroughly. -Completely fill the hole and water thoroughly again. -A layer of mulch, such as wood chips, around the base will help tree retain soil moisture and reduce weed competition.


RASPBERRIES Raspberries can be planted anytime from late fall to until early spring before new growth begins. They should be planted 30”-36” apart in rows that are spaced 8 feet apart. Make sure the roots are well hydrated before planting. Plant at a depth that does not exceed the space where the roots meet the cane. After planting, cut the canes back to 4-6”, Leaving the stubs to mark the rows until new sprouts appear and water well. Raspberry roots grow laterally and are very shallow. Make sure canes are adequately watered every week. Pruning established summer bearing raspberry plants: Raspberry plants produce their fruit on canes that sprouted during the previous year. Newly planted summer bearing raspberries should be left alone for the first year to establish themselves. After fruiting, the canes should be cut back to the ground after which, new second year canes will begin to develop around the crown of the plant. When new growth begins in the following spring, cut the canes back to 5 feet to induce lateral branching. Fall-bearing raspberries require a slightly different pruning method. They will produce fruit on the top third of the plant during their first fall. After fruiting, remove the portion of the plant that produced berries, but let the lower two-thirds of the plant remain to produce next springs crop. Remove the canes completely after they have suited over their entire length. New canes will quickly emerge to replace the spent ones. Never cut off the new canes that haven’t produced yet; they will produce the next year’s crop.


GRAPES Before planting grape vines, you may soak the vines in water overnight before planting. Dig a hole ideally approaching 24-36 inches deep and wide enough to allow the roots to spread out some. If the soil has a high clay content, you may wish to consider adding in a soil amendment, such as peat moss in a one-to-one ratio. You may also wish to trim the roots, if needed to fit into the hole. Do not excessively trim the root system. Place a small mound of earth in the bottom of the hole and lay the roots out around the mounded earth. Be certain that the root system is below the top of the hole. You should select a single spur with no more than three to four buds coming off of the rooted vine for that year’s growth. Water well at planting. Water frequently in the first year of growth. Keep weeds down around the vines reducing competition for the establishment of the vine. Grow vine up trellis and do not let it grow along the ground.

STRAWBERRIES Plant strawberries 12� apart in the garden. They enjoy full sun to light shade. They will send out runners that will root and develop new plants for the next season. Many gardeners prefer to plant strawberries in pots or garden boxes to prevent them from overtaking the garden.


BLUEBERRIES Blueberries like sandy, well-drained soil with a pH between 4.5 and 5.4. This is critical. If you do not know your soil pH do a soil test. Peat moss and sulfur will help lower your pH to desired levels. Select a site with full sun. At planting, dig a hole 18 inches deep and wide, and mix 1 cubic foot of peat moss with top soil until the hole is filled 4 inches from the top. Set the plant and cover the roots with the remaining peat-soil mix. In heavy soil, an equal amount of peat can be mixed with an equal amount of soil. Set plants 5 feet apart with rows 10 feet apart. Apply 4 inches of wood chip mulch in a 2 feet wide band after planting, and maintain a 4-inch depth and 4-feet band over the life of the planting. Water well. Blueberry roots are shallow and will dry quickly.


Garden NOTES



Wozupi.com | 952.233.9182 | 2041 140th St NW, Prior Lake, MN Owned and Operated by the Shakopee Mdewakanton Sioux Community


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