Between Calm and Chaos by Shannon Bayliss

between calm and chaos

TWO PART INSIGHT INTO SURFING

between calm and chaos PART 1 — POSITIVE INSIGHT INTO SURFING

CONTENTS

SURF STOKE

THE RIDE

BEAUTY OF THE SURF

ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES

SURF ANATOMY

HISTORY & PROGRESSION

COMMUNITY

One thing is universal for all surfers, and that’s surf stoke.

Riding the fine line between calm water and chaotic energy .

A surfer get’s to experience nature in a unique way. It’s worth stopping an appreciating the aquatic environment.

There are many initiatives in place because of passionate surfers who want to protect their environment.

Surfer’s study waves continually. Knowing the different types of breaks and how waves work is essential to a surfer.

From wave riding in ancient Polynesia to big wave surfing all around the world.

The endless pursuit of waves brings people together for a common cause.

‘surf stoke’ is universal for all surfers — rob machado

SURF STOKE

There is nothing like surfing. Breaking waves have always drawn mesmerized observers, and the art of riding them is a physical expression of that fascination. It involves bravery, endurance, and athleticism, but somehow it transcends the boundaries of sport in its expression of grace, beauty, and some intangible sense of rhythmic perfection.

After this extraordinary experience it’s now up to you to work out how you want to ride. Surfing is many things to many different people. The nature of surfing lends itself to open interpretation and a life-time of progression and development, in which ever way you want to go. One thing is universal for all surfers, and that’s surf stoke.

Once you start surfing and you find yourself sitting out at sea, turning and stroking for a wave, you are placing yourself in the path of an irresistible force and the rest of your surfing life will be spent learning how to harness that energy most successfully.

For those who don’t surf, ‘surf stoke’ is difficult to comprehend. So what is this ‘stoke’? The best way to explain it is to let someone experience it for themselves, but that is about as easy as hitting an arrow with another arrow while you are on horseback in the middle of a hurricane.

After the very first time you take to the waves — tired, frustrated, sore in muscles you didn’t know existed — you’ll already be looking forward to your next session, most likely staring out to sea with a grin, water dripping from your nose, and feeling wonderfully alive. This is your first dose of ‘surf stoke’ and in all likelihood, it will never leave you.

So for the lack of a better way to explain stoke, one has to turn to using metaphors that hopefully correspond to some reference point that people can relate to. The difficulty is that stoke defies definition, for the simple fact that it varies greatly from one person to another. Although most refer to it by the same name, the

experience that an individual goes through is definitely unique within each person. Stoke is, by all intent and definition, an individual personal experience that has no prerequisites – small waves, big waves, surfboard, body board, solitary, or surrounded by friends, it happens at any given moment in time. It is about your state of mind, and state of being caused by the activities undertaken in the surf.

THE RIDE A SURFER’S DESCRIPTION You and your friends see that the swell is up and the conditions are right. So without hesitation you and your convoy set out to the beach where you’ll spend the next few hours searching for as many rides as you can get under your feet. Paddling through rows of white-water you find the channel where an outgoing current carries you further out. Suddenly you’re in the line-up, behind the breaking waves, a peaceful place where the undulating swell stands tall before toppling on the reef. Further in is chaos, out here is calm, and a fine line between the two is the path you seek to tread. A rearing peak stands up, daring you to accept its challenge. You sit up on your board, swing the nose shorewards, lie down again and paddle hard. Feeling the swell building beneath you, the wave steepening and drawing you up to it’s

crest. More strong strokes and you’re staring down the vertical face, over a watery cliff. You push up and swing your feet under you as your board drops away. There is an instant of free-fall when you might come unstuck, but your feet connect with the board, the rail and fins grab the wave, and suddenly you’re skimming fast down the face, feet planted firmly, sensing every bump on the surface.

crouch lower, shifting your weight further forwards as the eye of light grows again and then...

A slight pressure on the balls of your feet sends you arching up the wave as the lip starts the throw and curl above. You stall, leaning hard on our back foot, ducking and crouching down low. Suddenly you are in the tube, wrapped entirely by the clear curtain of a throwing lip.

Your friends hoot their approval, your body tingles with adrenaline, and all you can think about is doing it again!

Shifting your weight forwards brings you into perfect trim with the racing curl, speeding through the watery tunnel, staring at a spinning, almond-shaped eye of light ahead. The tube begins to shrink and accelerate so you

— BOOM! — You’re back in daylight in a shower of spray, blinking and adrenalised. Harnessing the speed, you lean back on your heels into a smooth, arching cut-back rebounding off the foam before kicking out onto the shoulder of the wave.

a surfer rides on the line between calm and chaos â&#x20AC;&#x201D; andy irons

the ocean water chills me to my bones, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the only place that I feel alive 12

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; jordy smith

BEAUTY OF THE SURF THE SURFERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PERSPECTIVE Walking down the beach as the first rays of sunlight peak over the horizon, the sand feels cold and crunchy under your feet. The air tastes fresh despite a thin, salty mist, and the beach is deserted but for you and your friends The waves are clean and peaky, brushed by a gentle off-shore breeze, and refracting a thousand shades of orange and gold from the rising sun. Your heart-rate accelerates with anticipation

13 as you trot across the sand, and the kiss of the ocean sends a shiver through your body while wading out, pushing your board beside you through the rushing white water. Lying on your board breathing hard, feeling your muscles stretch as you paddle, blood starting to pump. The sharp chill of your first duck dive finally awakens all of your senses â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Immediately your mind is clear, sparkling with a fresh awareness.

ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES As surfers, we feel first hand the immediate effects of pollution, we see rampant development on our coasts. We see the effects of a runaway consumer lifestyle and disregard for the future of the eco-system as a whole. There are now many initiatives in place because of passionate surfers who want to protect their environment, especially local beaches and shores. Rip Curl Planet, Surfrider Foundation and World Wildlife Fund (WWF) are amongst many groups of people who are acting on the present threats and damaging pollution existing for the ocean, surf quality and marine life.

WATER QUALITY CAMPAIGN FROM MUNDAKA TO ANGLET Surfrider Europe is tackling the problem of untreated waste water and contaminated run-off polluting some of Europe’s most famous surfing breaks. Since 2006, Rip Curl has supported Surfrider Europe in their water quality campaign on the Basque coast, in association with the Basque Surfing Federation. Water is currently sampled by a dozen surf clubs and analysed in a lab for biological contamination. European regulations only require official water quality monitoring from coastal towns in high summer season and in bathing areas. Surfers, of course, enjoy the

ocean year-round and aren’t limited to the beaches they share with swimmers. So, unlike high summer tourist crowds, they don’t have the same access to information about contaminated water and the potential health risks. Since the 1990s Surfrider Europe have been giving Black Flags to towns with poor water quality records. The organisation then went on to set up its own water quality monitoring, testing water samples on a regular basis (2 to 4 times a month), and publishing results on its website. This has helped put pressure on coastal towns to tackle their local pollution issues.

surfers give back to their environment — kristy theissling

PROTECTING FRENCH POLYNESIA’S CORAL REEFS Tahiti and her surrounding islands have some of the most pristine coral reefs in the world — and the best waves. The WWF is fighting to save them. Even though they can prove hard, sharp and dangerous, coral reefs are also fragile. They’re built by little animals that live in harmony with other marine species. These ecosystems are compared to the rainforest for the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives in them. They provide food to millions of people and also help protect the coasts from the waves. Corals are threatened by pollution, destructive fishing techniques (like dynamite or cyanide), sea

temperature rise or natural predators like starfish. The World Wildlife Fund works at creating Marine Protected Areas so that all people, institutions and industries interacting with coral ecosystems can do so in respect of the environment. Their campaign in New Caledonia led to the listing of 2/3 of the island’s lagoon (the largest on the planet) on Unesco’s World Heritage list. The WWF is currently conducting field studies in French Polynesia to identify the most important areas of coral reef to protect. Rip Curl has been proud to support WWF since 2006 in this longterm campaign.

SURF ANATOMY Waves are pure energy. They pass though water but do not transport the water itself, only moving through it like a pulse sent through a length of rope. These pulses of energy form ocean swells and are born in storm systems out in the ocean, often travelling huge distances before ending their journey by breaking over a distant beach of reef.

LIFE CYCLE OF A SWELL A swell is a series of large, evenly spaced waves generated by weather systems at sea. Over long expanses of ocean, the larger swells absorb smaller swells in their path. This process creates swells that are more organized, well spaced, and well defined. When these beautiful swells approach a coast or reef, the bottom of the swell brushes the ocean floor, causing the swell to rise higher until the crest spills down the face of the wave. Then we have peeling surf.

HOW WAVES REACT The type of wave created when ocean swells reach the coastline depends of several factors. The off-shore depth and shape of the ocean floor, the geography of the coast it collides with, the wind conditions, and the tides are all crucial. The features of a surf-able coastline can be split into three simple categories — beach break, reef break, and point beak — and each have their own unique characteristics.

HOW THE WIND AFFECTS THE WAVES Wind strength and direction is critical to the quality of waves. Usually, surfers look for light off-shore winds — blowing from land out to sea — since this creates clean, peeling waves. Offshore wind blows against the incoming waves, pushing up the water, heightening it and smoothing the surface of the wave. On-shore winds create messy, choppy conditions

that are more difficult to surf. Side-shore winds blow parallel to the coast and can create tricky ridges, known as wind-chop, in the waves, which are difficult to navigate.

HOW THE TIDE AFFECTS WAVES Tides raise and lower the depth of the ocean at the coast-line, which can dramatically alter the character of a break. A peeling, hollow point break at low tide might be transformed in to a soft crumbling wave at high tide. Tides can also influence the strength and intensity of a swell. Waves may break with more force on an incoming tide, and become smaller and inconsistent on an outgoing tide. Tides run on a roughly 12-hour cycle, influenced by the moon, so there is a difference of around 6 hours between high and low tide. Monitor the conditions as the tides change and learn to recognize the types of waves that suit your level of ability.

waves are pure energy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; kelly slater

ANATOMY OF A BEACH BREAK When advancing swells meet sandy beaches, the waves peak and break quite randomly thanks to shifting sandbanks. This makes them tricky to judge, but they offer plenty of opportunities for learner surfers to catch waves away from crowds.

ANATOMY OF A POINT BREAK Point breaks peel along the edge of headlands, fingers of land, or any protruding geographical feature. They are characterized by long evenly peeling waves that wrap around the protrusion, like spokes around the hub of a wheel.

ANATOMY OF A REEF BREAK Reef breaks break over coral, lava, or rocky reefs. They usually produce very abrupt, hollow waves. Such conditions leave little margin for error, so are best suited to experienced surfers.

HOW WAVES ARE FORMED Origin

The storm acts like a pebble dropped in a pond, sending out ripples of energy in concentric circles.

Waves heighten

As the swells begin to brush the ocean floor, they slow down and push upwards.

Chaotic energy

At first the ripples are small, random wind-swells packed closely together.

Waves break

The bottom of the swell slows down as it connects with the sand or reef, and the top of swell overtakes it and the risen wall of water breaks over the wave.

Wave regularity

As the swells travel through the ocean, they order themselves into larger, even swell lines.

Energy dissipates

Waves reach the shore, re-shaping the coastline. Outward-rushing water creates rips and currents.

HISTORY & PROGRESSION A BRIEF HISTORY Most historians agree that wave-riding was first practiced by the ancient Polynesians, particularly the Tahitians and Hawaiians, and spread as they migrated across the Pacific over a thousand years ago. Surfing reached its cultural zenith in Hawaii, where it became ingrained in both ritual and cultural legend. Although Hawaiian culture was suppressed by European settlers in the 19th century, wave-riding was kept alive in the early stages of the 20th century by a handful of Waikiki beach boys. Fortunately for the world, one of them was an Olympic gold medalist swimmer named Duke Kahanamoku, who gave surfing demonstrations as he toured the world. The Duke is revered as the father of modern surfing. Today the Duke’s legacy includes a World Tour for elite professional surfers, and a booking industry in

fashion, music, and movies. Boards have evolved from enormous, solid wooden slabs, 3m (10ft) long and weighing 45kg (100lb) or more, to feather light, high performance surf-craft. Tow-in surfing, using highpowered jet-skis, is opening up massive open-ocean waves — and now the race is on to ride a 100-foot wave.

STYLES OF SURFING The two main forms of surfboard riding are longboarding and shortboarding. Small, long, peeling waves are perfect for longboards, while larger, hollow, peaky reef of beachbreaks generally suit a shortboard.

SHORTBOARD REVOLUTION The so-called ‘shortboard revolution’ began in around 1966, when adventurous surfers began to literally saw off and re-shape the front of their boards, in order to make them more maneuverable.

In a few years, surfboards shrank from 3m to 2m or less, and each generation since has developed more radical styles of surfing based on abrupt, high speed, direction changes, radical maneuvers, and deep tube riding. In order to keep pace, boards have sprouted two, then three or more fins, and have become ever thinner, lighter, and more curved from top to bottom.

LONGBOARD REVIVAL A longboard resurgence occurred in the late 1990’s as many older surfers returned to the waves and rediscovered the joys of the simple, uncluttered glide, grace and flow of longboarding. Since then, many of the experimental designs from the 1970s and 1980s have been rediscovered, such as the ‘fish’ and twin-fin designs.

SURFING TIMELINE c. 1000: Stand-up surfing emerges in the Hawaiian islands.

1820s: Surfing is virtually wiped out by European diseases and the spread of Christianity.

1950s: Foam fiberglass boards are invented, resulting in boards that are lighter and more user-friendly.

1960s:

Longboarding is in it’s heyday. 1976:

1700s: Surfing is practiced by Hawaiians of all ages and sexes, from royalty to commoners. Shorter ‘alaia’ boards are used by most adults, and larger by royalty. Early 1900s:

Europeans first encounter surfing as Captain Cook reaches Hawaii and Tahiti.

1910-20:

Waikiki beach boys revive surfing in Hawaii. Writings of Jack London give exposure to the resurgent sport.

1959: Hollywood film ‘Gidget’ popularizes surfing, leading to an explosion in surfing itself, surf fashion, and music.

1966: ‘Endless summer’ film enchants the world with a tale of the surf traveller’s restless search for the next wave.

1980s: Innovative surfboard designs proliferate, with two and three fins added for thrust and stability.

2000s: Professional surfing begins with the founding of the International Professional Surfers, which organizes the first world circuit.

1779:

Duke Kahanamoku’s demonstrations are watched by thousands as he tours the USA. Australia, and New Zealand.

Late 1960s: Boards are cut down to create shorter, more maneuverable surf-craft.

1990s: Longboarding is revived as older surfers rediscover the grace of surfing longer boards.

Now:

Tow-in surfing emerges in order to ride bigger waves not surf-able by paddling in.

Estimates put the number of surfers at more than 20 million worldwide.

COMMUNITY surf competitions, surf movie nights, and make your own surf DVD competitions, ding repairs, bible studies, and more. To find out more about what’s happening in your local area, check out the local contact for your area at www.christiansurfers. org.nz/contact.

SURFING ETIQUETTE GROUP SURF TRIPS One of the best things about surfing is the endless pursuit of waves. Early on in your surfing journey, you may want to try surfing at the next bay along the coast, then as you grow in skills and confidence, perhaps take a trip even further to a wave you’ve heard about form someone else. And so it will continue, for the rest of your surfing life. Traveling is a great way to learn. If you don’t live by the beach, surfing in an exotic location for a couple of weeks is a great way to kick-start your development, or give it a nudge along if you seem to be stagnating.

CHRISTIAN SURFERS NEW ZEALAND These surfers are reaching surfers and their communities. They have a passion for Jesus, a passion for surfing, and a passion for surfing communities. Christian Surfers has been running for 25 years in New Zealand, serving and reaching the surfing community. They are part of Christian Surfers International, a global movement now in almost 30 countries worldwide. They have 20 local groups around New Zealand who run a range of activities within their surfing communities: weekly meetings, surf trips, camps, learn to surf days,

It’s important to know some basic surfing etiquette, especially when learning how to surf. Surfing in governed by an unwritten code that has been passed down through the generations. When learning it is up to you to stay out of the way of more experience surfers. Surfing in quieter waters, away from the main pack of surfers, is usually a good idea when starting out. Make sure you give respect and plenty of latitude to more experienced and local surfers at the break you are surfing.

RIGHT OF WAVE The surfer who catches the wave first, or who is the

the pursuit of waves brings people together — jack johnson closest to the curl or the breaking part of the wave, has right of wave. Sometimes more experienced surfers break this rule, but that doesn’t mean they should be breaking the rule.

DROPPING IN Never catch a wave that another surfer is already on. This is crucial when you are in the line up with experienced surfers, who may be hurtling along the unbroken wave face. Dropping in puts yourself, and the surfer being dropped in on, in danger of being collided with.

PADDLING OUT It’s important to paddle out to the line-up without endangering yourself or fellow surfers. Consider the following: The surfer on the wave has right of way over the surfers paddling out. If you find yourself caught in the path of a breaking wave with a surfer hurtling towards you, always

paddle into the white-water and not the clean unbroken wave where the surfer is heading. Don’t try to paddle across the path of the surfer. This may mean you have to deal with buffeting from the white-water, but it is much better that being struck by a speeding surfboard. When you paddle out and are confronted by a breaking wave that seems daunting, don’t throw your board away, since it may endanger other surfers. Instead learn to duck dive or turn turtle. Hold onto your board at all costs. It will save you and other surfers from harm. Once you have finished riding a wave, always return to the line-up by paddling around the break, not through it, to avoid other surfers.

PART 2 — NEGATIVE INSIGHT INTO SURFING

CONTENTS

DRUG ABUSE & SURFING

AT WATERS MERCY

HARSH CONDITIONS

BOARD PRODUCTION

HALL OF PAIN

INJURY

CROWDS

Surfing leads many into drug abuse. — Stan Sedevic’s story

There’s no scarier feeling than the impact of the waves holding you down.

A surfer is always put to the test against the conditions and environment.

Popular surfboard production methods are highly toxic and harmful to the environment.

The top five wipe-outs of pro-surfers.

The price of riding waves is paid with flesh and blood.

Killer crowds: angry locals, beginners on longboards and those who simply don’t care.

DRUG ABUSE & SURFING Drug culture and surf culture have been entwined for as long as recreational drugs have been bought, sold and grown in coastal surfing regions around the world. Morning of The Earth, Puberty Blues and even the pill swallowing rave culture that comes with dance music’s influence on surf videos; it’s always been there. Surfing has introduced many a victim to drug abuse. Stan Sedevic experienced this drug and surfing culture

first hand. He’s a former addict turned prison drug treatment worker and been a keen surfer for the whole trip. He says that there are two very different perspectives of being inside — sadly for many it’s one or the other. For most who get into drugs through surfing, it’s behind bars. For few, the ones who genuinely want to seek help, they get to be on the inside of a barrelling wave, out in the surf.

AT WATERS MERCY Waves are down right scary. It’s so easy to freak out when confronted by a wall of white-water. Falling over the edge of a watery cliff and the implications that follow are enough to kill confidence and end a session. There’s nothing more terrifying than the impact of the waves holding you down. You take air for granted until you are forced to hold it. Not knowing when the turbulence will end makes time stand still and every second seem like an eternity. It’s this feeling that teaches

you respect for the waves. Their power and ability to cause pain and discomfort is surely recognized by every surfer. Waves put you back in your place, making you feel small and making you realize that life is precious and fragile. It is very humbling — the experience of being at the water’s complete mercy. I guess the thrill that draws you back is making it. When you get it right, you have turbulence chasing you close behind and in front there’s perfect beauty.

HARSH CONDITIONS

TOP 10 HARSHEST SURF BREAKS IN THE WORLD

1. CYCLOPS

3. SHIPSTERNS

Remote south coast Western Australia

Tasmania, Australia

What makes a wave dangerous? Is sheer size an accurate indicator for how hazardous a surf spot is? Read on for a roundup of the top ten most dangerous waves in the world, and the varying reasons for what ranks them.

This ultra square-shaped, below sea level, one-eyed monster tops the list for good reasons. It’s impossible to paddle into on a surfboard and almost unrideable towing behind a jet ski. If you blow a wave here you’ll be washed straight onto the dry rocks, which is a bummer because the nearest medical help is hours away.

2. TEAHUPOO Tahiti The scary thing about Teahupoo (pronounced Cho-poo) is that as the swell gets beyond 10 feet the wave doesn’t so much get taller, it just gets more enormous, often looking like the entire ocean is peeling over with the lip. Falling off here is almost a guarantee of hitting the razor sharp coral reef below, which wouldn’t be so bad if the locals didn’t insist on using fresh Tahitian lime juice to sterilise the reef cuts. Ouch.

Set along a remote length of pristine Tasmanian coastline, you could almost call this area picturesque if the wave itself wasn’t so ugly. Raw Antarctic swells come out of deep ocean and jack up into a roaring right-hander in front of the cliff which gives the spot its name. The uneven reef causes weird steps and bubbles in the wave, which are always a pleasant surprise when you’re still trying to navigate the drop down the face.

4. DUNGEONS Cape Town, South Africa It’s not that shallow and it doesn’t break in front of any rocks, but it is located off the tip of South Africa in the freezing Southern Ocean in shark infested waters. Dungeons regularly holds waves up to 70 feet, which is why organisers have chosen to hold the annual Big Wave Africa contest here since the year 1999.

38 5. PIPELINE

7. THE CAVE

9. GRINGOS

Oahu, Hawaii

Ericeira, Portugal

Arica, Chile

The shallow lava reef that shapes Pipe’s famous round tube is actually full of trenches and bumps, meaning a nasty old time for anyone falling out of the lip from 12 feet above. Which happens with surprisingly regularity, even to the experienced locals. Just as dangerous are the insane crowds that flock to Pipe any time it’s good, with fearless Hawaiians competing with the pro surfers, wannabes and tourists.

This wave has all the good ingredients that a dangerous wave should have, including a shallow reef, urchins and hot-tempered Latino locals. It’s not surprising The Cave has been described as Europe’s heaviest wave. It was once the preserve of Portugal’s bodyboarding set, but surf pros like Tiago Pires have been taking it on in recent years – and surviving.

Chile has a bunch of waves as equally as heavy and urchin-infested as this one but El Gringo is included in this list because of the damage it did to the pro surfers who surfed it in 2007’s WCT event. There were numerous broken boards, embedded urchin spines and slashed heads. And they surf for a living. Imagine what it’d do to you?

8. LUNADA BAY

10. TARQUA

California, USA

Lagos, Nigeria

Perhaps one of the best right-handers in California, Lunada is a great performance wave at six feet but it also handles swell right up to 20 feet. It’s not an overly dangerous wave in itself, but the locals are another matter entirely. Many visiting surfers have reported slashed tyres, rocks thrown, fist fights with locals and a seemingly disinterested local police force. You’re on your own here.

The good news is that this beach break located at the entrance to the Lagoon of Iddo in Lagos is often a fun, wedging peak. The bad news is the 60 million litres of raw sewage and tonnes of industrial waste produced by the 8 million inhabitants of Lagos every year that flows out into the ocean. Other hazards include floating carcasses, rubbish and the occasional mugging on the beach.

6. DESERT POINT Lombok, Indonesia This beautiful left-hander peels over very shallow coral somewhere off the dusty island of Lombok. The wave is less dangerous than the hazards of extreme boredom during flat spells because there’s nothing on land but a few run down losemans, overcrowding, contracting malaria and the fact that medical access is hours away.

BOARD PRODUCTION Surfers are always looking for lighter, more durable and higher performance surfboards. With new polymers that ultimately end up being more hazardous, the surfboard production industry is caught between consumers constantly demanding new and better products and government and social restrictions inhibiting their production.

AIR POLLUTANTS IN SURFBOARD PRODUCTION Surfboards, the longboards, shortboards, and funboards we have come to trust for our fun and safety on the water, have had an extensive evolution since the early 1900’s. We love our boards, but we should also be aware that there are concerns about the environmental repercussions during their production phase. Up until the 1950s, surfboards were made primarily using solid balsa wood and thus posed no environmental threat in their production. However, with the advent of durable, lightweight expanded foam and fiberglass late in the decade, wood was pushed to the wayside for surfboard production and the new

organic composites took over. The most common of these organic composites is polyurethane. Polyurethane (PU) is a lightweight but strong material which makes a much better base for surfboards than wood. PU is much lighter, easier to shape, and abundant synthetic material. Foam ‘blanks’, which are the rough shape and guideline foams, started being produced at a rapid rate for shapers. The shapers would then mould these foam blanks to their, or the surfer’s, particular specifications. This process became the industry standard and many of today’s boards come from this polyurethane foam (PU) material or similar foams. The downside to polyurethane and other organic composites is the air

pollution created during the manufacturing of surfboards. Polyurethane emits volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, which can be very harmful to human health. The two VOCs associated with polyurethane are toluene diisocyanate (TDI) and methylenediphenyl diisocyanate (MDI). Both compounds irritate the skin and eyes with acute exposure and occupational asthma, dyspnea, and other respiratory impairments with prolonged exposure. They are also both regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and require VOC incinerators to control the emissions. Another form of air pollution in the production of surfboards comes from the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;glassingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of the polyurethane forms. Epoxies

and polyesters are used to coat the foam bases. These compounds release VOC vapors which cause similar health effects as TDI and MDI when they are inhaled. Therefore similar regulation and control devices are implemented for these compounds. After the board foam block is produced, shaped and glassed, it then has to be sanded clean and polished. This process puts a large amount of fine particulate epoxy dust in the air, which, like all fine particles, presents a respiratory health risk. Particulate matter of this size requires a particulate scrubber or cyclone to collect the dust particles out of the air. Many options are available and will depend on the size of the board production facility.

HALL OF PAIN

Over the decades, there have certainly been thousands of gruesome accidents of unspeakable damage among our ranks. Nevertheless, outside of death, the five following incidents stand as the most notorious surfing tragedies of modern time.

was sewed back up (early diagnosis was to pull the eyeball out altogether), but the operation didn’t work. Hynd that year was rated No.12. The following year, ‘81, one-eyed, he was rated No. 7.

1 MARTIN POTTER

1983, Pipeline Masters, Hawaii. Looked like a routine wipeout on an 8-footer, but Beaver went head first into the reef and was pulled out of the water unconscious some minutes later; airlifted off the beach with massive skull fracture over his right eye requiring a steel plate. To this day he has problems with his sight, memory and speech. In ‘87, however, he returned to the North Shore to surf.

1997, Burleigh Heads, Australia. Martin pulled into the tube at Burleigh Heads on a 5-footer, wiped out, and the nose of his board pierced his stomach on the left side. Six inches of the nose actually snapped off, and cut him deeply – intestines were literally coming out of the hole – for a total of 40 stitches and three months out of the water. 2 DEREK HYND 1980, Hang Ten Pro, Durban, South Africa. DH kicked out from a small wave near shore, the board bounced away, DH turned toward shore and the board bounced back and finned him in the right cheekbone and eye. The best eye surgeon in South Africa was called in, the eyeball

3 STEVE MASSFELLER

4 TITUS KINIMAKA 1989, Christmas Day, Waimea, Hawaii. Titus pulled into the tube on an 18-footer, got hit by the lip and broke his right femur, near the hip. Kinimaka went into shock while floating and had to wait in the channel, supported by a small group of surfers

for about 45 minutes before the rescue helicopter arrived. Several hours of surgery was required. Titus was back in the water by late March. 5 TOM CARROLL 1987, Niijima Beach, Japan. During a pre-contest shorebreak re-entry, TC’s board stuck in the sand nose first and his back foot slipped off sending the fin straight up his bottom, resulting in 13 stitches – eight internal, five external. It gets worse. Doctors gave him an especially strong anti-bacterial liquid to keep the area clean, except all the instructions were in Japanese. Tom poured it on the area directly, causing his entire scrotum to blister horribly within minutes. He then had to run out on the streets of Japan, trying to get some help for the burning area, and the only way he could communicate is by pointing toward the injured region. He later found out you were supposed to dilute the liquid 1 to 100.

INJURIES Surfing is physically demanding, repetitious and often hazardous, particularly for beginners. Advances in surfboard technology enable more speed and sharper turns and competitiveness will push those at the top end to attempt more radical manoeuvres and tackle bigger waves. So logically there are going to be more casualties, and many of them will be among beginners with low skill levels, poor knowledge of conditions and inadequate fitness levels. With that in mind, risk of severe injury more than doubles in overhead surf. So which ever way you approach surfing, you will get hurt.

COMMON SURFING INJURIES Soft-tissue injuries ranging from bruises to acute strains or sprains to the lumbar and cervical spine, shoulder, knee and ankle and even fractures occur frequently. The head and face area is the most common injury site, followed

by the ribs. This is usually due to getting tossed by waves and your body coming into contact with surfboards, rocks, and coral reef. Trauma from a collision with a surfboardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rails, fins, and nose is the most common cause of acute surfing injuries. Common causes of injury are coral reefs, hard sand ocean floor, and submerged rocks. Common head and neck injuries include concussion, cervical spine fracture, and fractures of the face, jaw, skull, and teeth. Feet and hands are also some of the most common areas of injury. Our soft skin is no match for the sharp edges of a finely tuned surfboard fin or the razor sharp coral reef lurking underneath many of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous waves. One long slice can mean stitches and can result in infection. The shoulder is most vulnerable to overuse. This can lead to Rotator-cuff

impingement and tendinitis, resulting in pain in the front shoulder and the deltoid region. A chronic condition like this is most commonly seen in beginners who have poor paddling technique and older surfers with years of paddling. One of the more gruesome of the injuries suffered by surfers is damage sustained to an eye due to an errant surfboard tip. This can cause severe damage to an eye and may result in a permanently damaged eye and vision loss. Eye injuries can result from direct trauma but also chronically from excessive UV light reflecting from the water surface, the drying effect of the wind and exposure to salt water. There are certain kinds of injuries that are peculiar to the surfing world. These usually involve the time spent paddling out into the surf, catching the wave or marine life. Without any outward signs of what the injury might be or hearing

the details from the surfer involved, most doctors are stymied without further investigation. But studies of surfers have begun to provide the statistics needed to draw the picture of what likely happened to cause the injury. After looking at a group of surfers the statistics showed that the type of injury usually sustained during the paddle would involve dislocation of the shoulder, an injury caused by the surfboard to the head, usually a fracture to either the skull or face, or bruising to the vocal chords. Injuries commonly associated with catching or riding the wave involved broken arms or legs, head and neck trauma or damage to the knees. Other injuries can be cause by stings or bites from marine animals, cuts and bruises from the tail fin on the surfboard, damage to the ears from exposure to the cold water and various kinds of foreign materials finding their way into the lungs.

Risk of significant injury doubles for a surfer in his 40’s or later when compared to as a surfer younger than 20 years of age. The older, more advanced, and braver you are, the more likely you are to incur a significant injury. The majority of injuries happen in smaller waves, however surfing in overhead waves more that doubles the risk of more serve injuries. Take off and tube riding are the maneuvers most commonly leading to injury in overhead surf.

WHAT CAN YOU DO TO SURF SAFER? Hard plastic or rubber nose guards fitted to the front tip of the board can soften the blow if contact is made during a wipeout. Also, a wet-suit can help guard against lacerations from fins. A hood attached to the suit will protect a surfer’s eardrums. Booties will protect against lacerations from an underlying reef although many surfers forgo them because they impair

their ‘feel’ for the board. In large surf, selecting a longer leash can also be very helpful in preventing contact injuries with the board. And of course a helmet can be worn to protect the head. Also don’t forget your surfer salve for sunburn, small lacerations, and rash. Forget the cool factor — surf safely and know when to get out, or when not go out at all.

CROWDS This is the most understated danger of surfing, between aggressive locals, beginners flinging longboards, and people in general that simply don’t give a damn. Boards and bodies can just go flying. Even if everyone is being decent, which is the case most of the time, you just end up with too many bodies and boards in a given area. Especially when you’re stuck on the inside and that big set starts coming in. Growing popularity in surfing means more surfers,

and more surfers and more crowds. Where will it end? Your guess is as good as any. It’s your responsibility to be safe around other surfers and to respect the waves and others enjoying them. Frankly, it’s best to know when a break is too crowded to surf at all. And chances are there is a less popular break close by.