FLYING ADVENTURE

FORGOTTEN GEM

Much as it’s difficult to comprehend the current worldwide catastrophe, having tidied the garage and shed for the first time in years, rather than capitulate, Martin Ferid provides a modicum of normality and whisks us away to Bourges…

There are flyers among us who have circumnavigated the known world and consider places such as Le Touquet a ‘stop-off’ rather than the ultimate objective. These plucky travellers are always in the market for new and compelling destinations. For reasons that are obscure, Bourges is a place that has likely been missed, but is certainly a worthy ‘weekender’ in its own right. If you were to get a map of France and put a pin right in the middle you wouldn’t be too far from Bourges, the capital of the Cher department, making Spain, Switzerland and the West Coast of France all within easy reach. It is eminently easy to be envious of their homebased pilots, as they can just check the ‘météo’ and head in whichever direction the weather looks best. Although, the reality is that many French pilots don’t fly too far, and neither do most Europeans, that is firmly the domain of the Brits. Wherever you go, to whatever esoteric destination, have a little nose around and sure enough, there’ll be an eccentric Brit lurking somewhere, very likely complaining that the local milk makes their tea taste peculiar. Currently, Bourges has a population of around 66,000, but during WWI it was an important centre for arms production with 100,000 inhabitants, and workers from all over the world. After the war Henri Laudier, the local Mayor, was tasked with the development and modernisation of the city, leading to the opening of the airport in 1928. What we know as Aérospatiale started life at the Aéroport de Bourges as the Henriot Aviation factory. Through the vicissitudes of time its fortunes have fluctuated greatly. Sitting on the River Yèvre, it has served as the capital of France and also been robbed, pillaged and ransacked. Around 1000 BC it was home to Celtic tribesmen known as The Bituriges, meaning ‘kings of the world’. In his quest to avenge the obliteration of the Fourteenth Roman Legion and to quell the rebelling tribes of Gaul, Julius Caesar and his centurions arrived in what they called Avaricum in 52 BC. He was so taken with the Gallic stronghold that instead of razing it to the ground as part of his corybantic scorched earth policy, he fortified it as a Roman garrison. In 1487 a great fire destroyed much of the town, with the nadir immediately followed by a restoration programme resulting in more 15th and 16th century half-timbered houses than in any other town in France. As you stroll through the old town, the cobbled streets and distinctive architecture create a unique historic feel.

Main The Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Bourges dates to the 12th and 13th centuries and is seen here lit for the light show. A blue trail links the various lit buildings, making navigating the streets almost as easy as using your SkyDemon!

One almost expects D’Artagnan and the three musketeers to appear out of one of the courtyards in knee-high boots, plumed hats and rapiers in hand. Although Alexander Dumas’ The Three Musketeers wasn’t written until 1844, the work is actually set between 1625 and 1628, with the town providing just about the right backdrop. The airfield has both tarmacked and grass runways, with the peculiarity that if you land on the grass, there is no charge. Not realising, on my first visit I didn’t mention it, although the landing fee of around €10 is hardly a deal-breaker. Its website states a desire to develop GA, which is refreshing, as it would be easy for pilots to feel a touch ‘unloved’ by most regulatory developments. Fuel is available from the pompier with a simple credit card or cash, but surprisingly there’s no restaurant at the field. Getting into town is straightforward with the bus stop just outside the airport and the No. 8 takes around 10 minutes. For the return, however, it’s worth noting that the bus service stops around 8.30pm and doesn’t start until after lunch on Sundays. Outside the operational hours, the options that remain aren’t that bad, as the walk takes around 45 minutes and may well help walk-off that duck confit and crème brûlée, or alternatively, taxis cost around €12. As a tip, whenever possible I ask the hotel to make the taxi arrangements, as they tend to know the more reliable firms and stand a better chance of getting things right rather than a random voice that doesn’t speak the language fluently. Having been deposited at the bus terminal and feeling more like vagrants, it was time for a respite from the xeric heat, a nice cool drink and to source a bed for the night. I know that many pilots like things arranged well in advance, whereas others don’t pre-book to avoid a loss of fee. Personally, I do some and some! If it’s a busy fly-in or a popular event I tend to book ahead and accept the charges if I can’t get there. If, however, I’m just enjoying the exclusive liberty that a little two-seat wood and fabric aerial conveyance gives me, I’ll just pitch-up and hope for the best.

Top Well worth a visit are the cathedral gardens – some momentary peace and quiet from the hubbub of the city streets.

Above left The old town has more timbered houses than you can shake a stick at, I just love the way the French have preserved so much of their heritage.

Above right The river Yèvre meanders through the town, providing waterside resting places and havens of nature. Overnight accommodation

For cheap and cheerful, the F1, at Le César 18570, is around £40, and The Premiere Classe, at Zac De L’échangeur 18000, around £45, both in the opposite direction to the town. The Hôtel Kyriad Bourges is conveniently situated opposite the airport and is around £55 and ideal if you want to get going without fuss the next morning. 15 Allée Icare, 18000. +33 2 48 20 14 30. www.kyriad.com For a couple of nights, I’d stay right in the centre, as

everything is then within easy walking distance and you can soak up the atmosphere with a glass of something from the nearby Loire vineyards. For a much nicer stay, the 4-star Hotel De Bourbon Grand Hotel Mercure is a good choice as the hotel is attached to a lovely old Abbey not far from the old town, with rooms from around £100. Boulevard de la République +33 2 48 70 70 00. https://tinyurl.com/ tqqdpgnl. The perfectly adequate 2-star P’tit Dej-Hôtel Bourges-Arcane is opposite the station at around £65. 2 Place du Général Leclerc, 18000 +33 2 48 24 20 87. www.theoriginalshotels.com/hotels/bourges-gare

A bite to eat

For the habitué of fine restaurants, La Suite’s is worth trying, particularly at lunchtime as their set-menu represents good value. If cost is not an issue, there is more choice in the evening, but with only the a la carte available it’s going to be a lot more expensive. 50 rue Bourbonnoux, +33 2 48 65 96 26. www.lasuite-bourges.com Les Petits Plats du Bourbon is a restaurant brasserie and along with the Mercure hotel, part of the old Abbey of Saint-Ambroix. Menus are on a blackboard, reasonably priced and changed according to local produce. The food is good, although the staff can be the personification of ‘Gallic charm’, but well worth visiting if only for the setting. You can find it at 60 avenue Jean Jaures, 18000 +33 2 48 70 79 90. For more information: www.lespetitsplatsdubourbon.com At the other end of the price-band is the Crêperie Dentelle et Chocolat. Now I’m not a crepe aficionado, but Sian is a self-confessed addict and tells me that both the sweet and the savoury are to die for. Pricewise, as far as eating out goes it’s almost as ‘cheap as chips’. 96 rue d‘Auron +33 2 48 65 36 45.

Below Plenty of ancient nooks, crannies and alleyways to explore. Can’t you just imagine the Three Musketeers, rapiers flashing as they fight off the foe? Out and about…

For exploring the area, the Loire Valley is less than an hour away, with plenty of car hire locations in town. Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Bourges was built in the late 12th and 13th centuries in a Gothic and Romanesque style. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site but must have friends up above as it not only survived the great fire but also all the conflicts since. www.bourges-cathedrale.fr The Archbishop’s Garden forms part of the Cathedral’s grounds, which are free to visit. There is also a lovely formal French garden created in the 17th century with a bandstand in the middle, by a student of André Le Nôtre, of ‘Gardens of Versailles’ fame. https://tinyurl.com/archbishop-garden Palais Jacques Coeur is an extravagant Gothic mansion house designed by Jacques Coeur, one of the most successful merchants in France. He was close to King Charles VII and used his wealth to financially support the armies of Joan of Arc. 10 Bis Rue Jacques

Cœur +33 2 48 24 79 42 www.palais-jacques-coeur.fr/ Museum of Meilleurs Ouvriers de France may well be of particular interest to LAA members, as it comprises a collection of exhibits from the yearly competition for the best craftsmen in France. Located in the Archbishop’s Palace, it has been running since 1924, so there’s plenty of historic innovation. Place Etienne Dolet. +33 2 48 57 82 45 www.ville-bourges.fr Les Nuits Lumieres. During the summer months as the sun goes down, Bourges has its own light show that projects onto its historical buildings. If you haven’t been to one, make a point of going, this one is unusual insofar as a trail of blue solar lights links one major site to another, making the Nav easy. Muséum d’histoire Naturelle de Bourges is the natural history museum and documents the diversity of the living universe, man’s history and includes a special exhibition dedicated to the topical subject of the world’s bats, or to give them their scientific name, Chiroptera. 9 Allée René Ménard, 18000 +33 2 48 65 37 34. www.museum-bourges.net Musee de la Resistance et de la Deportation du Cher (Cher Museum of Resistance and Deportation). The museum is not far from the airfield and would only take about 15 minutes if you were able to nip across the runways and shimmy over the fence, but as it is we have to accept the longer walk around the perimeter fence. It can easily be visited though, even if just passing through. Rue Heurtault de Lamerville 18000 +33 2 48 55 82 60. http://resistance-deportation18.fr. This leads us nicely into some historic content regarding a particular RAF officer who served during WWII.

Aviateur extraordinaire…

Wing Commander Leonard Ratcliff DSO, DFC and Bar, AFC, Croix de Guerre with Palm, Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur Now and again I come across someone who deserves recognition for not only a remarkable life but also their contributions to the lives of others. In my view, Leonard Fitch Ratcliff fits into that category perfectly, so sit back, don’t rush, and prepare for some reflection. As the last surviving member of a group of pilots known for their contribution to La Résistance during WWII, in 2011 he was invited as the guest of honour to the opening ceremony when the Musee de la Resistance et de la Deportation du Cher opened its doors in Bourges. Born in Maldon Essex in 1919, he lived to be 96 years of age, which is quite remarkable considering his wartime profession. At the age of 20, he joined the RAF Volunteer Reserve for pilot training, and was posted two years later to No 49 Squadron RAF Scampton, to fly the twin-engine Handley Page HP.52 Hampden. Luckily, new pilots were taken on as navigators to hone their skills before being given a command. That single fact may have well kept him alive during future operations, as it required an added navigation course. Top The Jodel looks a little lonely on the ramp. If you land on the grass there is no landing fee, on the hard it is €10, hardly excessive, but then French landing fees seldom are.

Above Interesting street art harks back to the town’s past. Over the next year, he flew over 40 missions, bombing industrial targets from Hamburg to the Ruhr and dropping mines at occupied ports and river estuaries. On an assignment to a synthetic rubber plant at Huls, he was intercepted by enemy night fighters and in managing to avoid their fire he went on to complete his mission. A few weeks later, bombing ships near Brest, he again managed evasive action, giving the fighters the slip. After his tour of duty in 1942, he spent a year instructing bomber crews before being re-assigned to the secret RAF Tempsford, where the elite No 138 and No 161 Squadrons were based. This meant night-time covert operations, picking-up or dropping-off secret agents to and from remote locations in the dead of night. The two Squadrons had a combined total of 200 flying personnel at any one time and, during its 3½ years of operations, they suffered losses of 600. On leaving the RAF in December 1945, Ratcliff had flown a total of over 60 missions and, as far as probability and life expectancy goes, well, you do the maths! On one occasion, when flying agents near to Mâcon, on approaching the French coast his four-engine Halifax developed an engine problem. Rather than return home he carried on, made his drop and flew on to Algeria on the remaining three engines, for the engine to be replaced. Those who’ve seen the 2001 film Charlotte Grey, about a female agent operating behind enemy lines,

will be familiar with the storyline. But it was Ratcliff who flew the real-life wireless operator Yvonne Cormeau, codename ‘Annette’, to an isolated field to the east of Bordeaux. In his first sortie in a Lockheed A-29 Hudson, he was due to collect suspected double agent Henri Déricourt for interrogation from a remote location near Angers. On becoming suspicious, Déricourt convinced Special Ops to alter the detail whereby Ratcliff was reassigned to recover other agents instead. After the war, Déricourt was tried as a double-agent and to this day it is unclear whether the agents he sacrificed were to avert attention, as he claimed, or if he was in fact, serving two masters. He was ultimately acquitted due to a lack of evidence. Early the following year, Ratcliff flew the aeroplane that dropped Wing Commander Forest Frederick Edward ‘Tommy’ Yeo-Thomas GC, MC and Bar by parachute into occupied territory. Details of Tommy’s life are equally fascinating, as he really was a doubleagent, mixing with the Nazi elite and in constant threat of discovery. Codenamed ‘Seahorse’ and ‘Shelly’ to Special Ops, and known as ‘The White Rabbit’ to the Gestapo, despite being captured and tortured he also managed to survive the war. A couple of months later Ratcliff was in a STOL Westland Lysander, so named after the ancient Greek Spartan Admiral. One of his first trips in a ‘Lizzie’’, as they were known, was to drop three agents at a secluded spot near Chartres. The aircraft was specially modified for the purpose, with long-range tanks, but cramped and pretty uncomfortable. Shortly after he was one of three ‘Lizzies’ that flew independently to an isolated field near Touraine to drop two agents and return with three. Lit up by the resistance, the aircraft arrived at the chosen spot near the River Cher within minutes of each other. On landing, Ratcliff was airborne again within three minutes, allowing the second aircraft to land behind him, making it nearly a six-hour round trip. After the war, he went back to Essex into the grain business, eventually becoming a director for Spillers Foods. Among his many achievements, he was a founder member of the Halstead Rotary Club, chairman of Halstead Hospital’s League of Friends, appointed High Sheriff of Essex and a year before his death, had the hospital’s rehab centre named after him. Now, I have flown to all of these places, but only in good conditions and more recently with GPS. How these guys managed, not only to fly at night but to navigate and locate some remote clearing guided by torches, is an amazing feat in itself. But when you add the fact that both in the air and on the ground, there was an enemy actively wishing to do them harm, takes matters to an altogether different level. These days we regularly hear the word ‘respect’ bandied around by people with little or no comprehension of its true meaning. In my view, such an important word should be reserved for the truly deserving, and you can’t get much more worthy than not only some of the people mentioned above but all of those who endured so much; contributing to the lives we lead today as opposed to what they might well have been. It is heart-warming in today’s troubled times that our dedicated frontline health and care workers carry on that selfless dedication to duty, our modern-day heroes who are also so worthy of our gratitude and respect. Keep safe and let’s hope that we will soon enjoy better times ahead. Next month’s Adventure takes us to the RSA Rally at Brienne-le-Château (LFFN) although sadly, I have just heard that this year’s event has been cancelled. ■

Get touring with the author!

Martin Ferid is a Class Rating Instructor and Revalidation Examiner and specialises in helping qualified pilots expand their horizons by flying with them in their aircraft for day trips or a few days at a time. If you need a bit of confidence building, want to cross the Channel, or need help with touring in general, just ask, as we are only too pleased to help. Check out his website; a browse through the ‘favourite destinations’ should provide inspiration for places to visit. The ‘touring’ pages contain a useful amount of info with regards to formalities, radio procedures, flight plans etc. if you want to go it alone. And for a little amusement on days stuck at home, try the ‘bit of fun’ section on the contact page. When things return to normal Throughout the season, in conjunction with this monthly series of ‘Touring Adventures,’ we arrange fly-outs to destinations in both the UK and abroad. The idea is to get you guys to dust-off those ‘hangar queens’ and take part in the adventures that they read about, and which are literally at your fingertips. The message is getting through, with more and more pilots succumbing to temptation and taking that first ‘bite out of the apple’. Picture a weekend away, a nice town, good food, a glass or two and a bunch of like-minded people. If you would like to join us, you will be most welcome. It makes no difference whether you are a seasoned tourer or have never crossed the channel before; there’s enough support and experience around to help allay those fears. Email: lightaircrafttraining@yahoo.com Tel: 07598 880 178 Website: www.lightaircrafttraining.co.uk