Climbing the Summits: The 46 High Peaks

Page 1

CLIMBING THE SUMMITS THE ADIRONDACK FORTY-SIXERS



THE 46 HIGH PEAKS


27 PEAKS


MISSION STATEMENT: “A NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION WHOSE MEMBERS HAVE CLIMBED THE 46 MAJOR PEAKS OF NEW YORK’S ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. AS VOLUNTEERS WE ARE DEDICATED TO ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION, TO EDUCATION FOR PROPER USAGE OF WILDERNESS AREAS, TO PARTICIPATION IN NEW YORK STATE DEPARTMENT OF ENVIRONMENTAL CONSERVATION APPROVED TRAIL PROJECTS, AND TO THE SUPPORT OF INITIATIVES WITHIN THE ADIRONDACK HIGH PEAKS REGION BY ORGANIZATIONS WITH SIMILAR GOALS THAT ENHANCE OUR OBJECTIVES.”

28 PEAKS


ELEVATION COMPARISON THE RANGE OF ELEVATION FROM WEST TO EAST

WEST 5500' 5000' 4500' 4000' 3500' 29 PEAKS

3000' 2500' 2000' 1500' 1000' 500' 0' SEWARD EMMONS 24 4361' 40 4040'

PANTHER COUCHACHRAGA 18 4442' 46 3820'

DONALDSON SEYMOUR 33 4140' 34 4120'

SANTANONI 14 4607'

STREET 31 4166'

NYE 45 3895'

IROQUOIS 8 4840' MARSHALL 25 4360'

CLIFF 44 3960'

ALGONQUIN 2 5114'

COLDEN 11 4714' WRIGHT 16 4580'

ALLEN 26 4340'

REDFIELD 15 4606'

SKYLIGHT 4 4926'

GRAY 7 4840'

PHELPS 32 4161'

MARCY 1 5344'

TABLETOP 19 4427'

WHITEFACE 4867'

ESTHER 28 4240'


EAST

HAYSTACK

3 4960'

SADDLEBACK

17 4515'

GOTHICS

10 4736'

SAWTEETH

35 4100'

CASCADE

36 4098'

COLVIN

LOWER 30 WOLF JAW

39 4057'

DIAL

MACOMB

41 4020'

21 4405'

SOUTH DIX

37 4060'

ROCKY PEAK RIDGE

20 4420'

1. MARCY

24. SEWARD

2. ALGONQUIN

25. MARSHALL

3. HAYSTACK

26. ALLEN

4. SKYLIGHT

27. BIG SLIDE

5. WHITEFACE

28. ESTHER

6. DIX

29. UPPER WOLF JAW

7. GRAY

30. LOWER WOLF JAW

8. IROQUOIS

31. STREET

9. BASIN

32. PHELPS

10. GOTHICS

33. DONALDSON

11. COLDEN

34. SEYMOUR

12. GIANT

35. SAWTEETH

13. NIPPLETOP

36. CASCADE

14. SANTANONI

37. SOUTH DIX

15. REDFIELD

38. PORTER

16. WRIGHT

39. COLVIN

17. SADDLEBACK

40. EMMONS

18. PANTHER

41. DIAL

19. TABLETOP

42. GRACE

20. ROCKY

43. BLAKE

21. MACOMB

44. CLIFF

22. ARMSTRONG

45. NYE

23. HOUGH

46. COUCHSACHRAGA

4175'

BASIN 9 4827'

BIG SLIDE 27 4240'

ARMSTRONG BLAKE 22 4400' 43 3960'

PORTER 38 4059'

UPPER 29 WOLF JAW 4185'

NIPPLETOP 13 4620'

DIX 6 4857'

HOUGH 23 4400'

GRACE 42 4012'

GIANT 12 4627'


“No language can describe the glory and magnificence of the view”

31 PEAKS


1

MT MARCY

HIGHEST PEAK IN NEW YORK

MOUNT MARCY IS THE HIGHEST PEAK IN NEW YORK STATE, WITH AN ELEVATION OF 5,344 FT. 1

This remote peak is one of the most visited in the world. The trip to the top can be steep and wet and in the months from October to May expect snow towards the top of the peak.

ELEVATION: 5344 FT

The first ascent of Mt. Marcy was in 1837, but it wasn’t until 1861 that a trail was cut to the summit. The original trail was later abandoned for the route that is used today. Since then hikers from across the country have climbed to the top during both the winter and summer months. In the winter months, a majority of trail is suitable from alpine skiing or snowboarding on the way back down.

DIFFICULTY (SCALE 1-7): 5

Today the most popular route to the top is the Van Hoevenberg Trail which goes northeast up the mountain. It is a 7.4 mile trail to the summit and is rated a level of difficulty of 5 out of 7. The path goes up along Mount Phelps until you reach the summit and then crosses over onto Mt. Marcy.

CAN SEE OF THE ADIRONDACKS FROM THE SUMMIT. ON CLEAR DAY, CAN SEE MT. ROYAL

When you arrive at the top of Mount Marcy you will see that the trek up was worth it. The view is spectacular, you can see the summits of 43 high peaks throughout the Adirondacks. On a clear day you can see Mount Royal in Montreal to the north, which is almost 65 miles away. The Mount Marcy hike can be completed in a day, but some choose to hike a portion of the trail, pitch a tent for the night, and continue on the following day. There are campgrounds available for use at mile 3 of the trail.

ASCENT OF CLIMB: 3166 FT LENGTH ROUND TRIP: 14.8 MI HIKE TIME: 10 HRS

43 PEAKS

SIXTY-FIVE MILES AWAY

65 MOST POPULAR TRAIL:

HOEVENBERG TRAIL FIRST ASCENT IN 1837 TRAIL MADE IN 1861 NAMED BY PROFESSOR EMMONS ON AUGUST 5, 1837 IN HONOR OF A DISTINGUISHED STATESMAN WHO HELD THE GOVERNOR'S CHAIR 1832-1838


2

ALGONQUIN

2 Algonquin Peak is the tallest peak in the MacIntyre Mountain Range in the town of North Elba, in Essex County, New York. It is the second highest mountain in New York, and one of the 46 Adirondack High Peaks in the Adirondack Park. To get to the trailhead, head to the High Peaks Visitors Center at the end of Adirondack Loj Road located on NY 73 headed east from the village of Lake Placid NY. While the climb to the summit is only just over four miles, much of the route is steep and becomes progressively steeper as one approaches the summit. 33 PEAKS

Hiking to the Algonquin is generally best in the fall and the summer, although winter and spring are possible with the proper gear. The trail is on a rockslide in the last mile of the hike. A bald summit with spectacular views is ones reward for the effort. Algonquin is blessed with a 360 degree view from it bald summit with amazing views, in particular the face of Mount Colden. Algonquin's summit offers views of Mount Marcy, Colden, Skylight and Grey from the east and south. You can see Mount Cascade and Porter from the north as well as the Sentinel Range. The summit of Algonquin also has a summit steward to help educate hikers on the alpine vegetation, views and all around wilderness education. One can add a short side trip to Wright Peak or a longer extension to Iroquois Peak. Algonquin also is home of several species of rare and endangered alpine vegetation; tread lightly and stay on bare rock.


3

FAMOUS FOR THE

HAYSTACK

DEVIL’S HALF MILE: EXTREMEMLY STEEP LAST STRETCH OF TRAIL. (IT IS ACTUALLY ONLY 3/4 MILE)

3

ELEVATION: 4960 FT DIFFICULTY (SCALE 1-7): 7 ASCENT OF CLIMB: 3570 FT LENGTH ROUND TRIP: 17.8 MI HIKE TIME: 12 HRS

SUMMIT IS A BALD DOME IN THE SHAPE OF A

STACK OF HAY NAMED BY ORSON PHELPS IN 1849 DURING THE FIRST ASCENT WHO REMARKED THAT THE MOUNTAIN WAS A

GREAT STACK OF ROCK, BUT IN FORM RESEMBLED A

Mount Haystack is the third highest peak in New York State with an elevation of 4,960 ft and is an extremely challenging climb. Mount Haystack does not get many hikers, besides aspiring members of the Adirondack Forty-Sixers. With an Elevation of 4,960 ft and an average trip length of 17.8 miles, this trip will take about 12 hours to hike. To reach Mount Haystack, many hikers follow the Johns Brook Trail from the Garden Parking area in Keene Valley to the Phelps Trail and then use the Shorey’s Short Cut to get over the Range trail.

Another hiking option would be to come along the Great Range itself and hike Mount Haystack before Mount Marcy—or combine the hike with the neighboring mountains Basin and Saddleback. Mount Haystack has what hikers call “Devil’s Half Mile,” the stretch of the hike that has extremely steep terrain. Make sure you’re careful.

STACK OF HAY WHEN CLIMBING THE MAIN ROUTE, YOU WILL HAVE TO CLIMB OVER LITTLE HAYSTACK FIRST


“THE LE CIVILIZ THE BET


ESS ZATION, TTER”

-ROBERT MARSHALL


Over thirty high peaks can be seen from the summit 37 PEAKS


4

SKYLIGHT 4

Mount Skylight is the fourth highest mountain in New York State with an elevation of 4,926 ft. This mountain gets its name from the open, bare and flat summit—perfect for gazing up into the sky. With an elevation of 4,926 ft, Mount Skylight will take about 15 hours to hike the 17.9 mile trail. Mount Skylight is a favorite among hikers and is known for the two large cairns. A cairns is a man-made pile of stones—there are two used to mark the summit of Mount Skylight. If you’re superstitious, placing a rock on the cairns is supposed to ensure good weather and good luck. A single trail goes up to the mountain’s summit from the Four Corners Junction, between Mount Skylight and Mount Marcy. The most popular way to get to the summit is for hikers to come up from the west on the Fledspar Brook Trail and climb the peak in conjunction with a visit to the Lake-Tear-of-the Clouds. This lake is the highest source of the Hudson River. From there, climb Gray Peak, another 46er. The trail can also be reached by descending from Mount Marcy to the north, or Panther Gorge and Elk Lake to the southeast. All of these hikes are extensive and are usually done overnight.

NAMED BY PERKINS AND PHELPS FOR THE OPEN BARE

IDEAL FOR LOOKING UP FLAT SUMMIT, AT THE SKY ELEVATION: 4926 FT DIFFICULTY (SCALE 1-7): 7 ASCENT OF CLIMB: 4265 FT

LENGTH ROUND TRIP: 17.9 MI HIKE TIME: 15 HRS

OVER THIRTY OTHER HIGH PEAKS CAN BE SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT, WHICH MEANS:

OVER 65% OF THE PEAKS CAN BE SEEN


5

WHITEFACE

The northernmost sentinel of the high peaks

5

39 PEAKS

THE PEAK MOST FREQUENTLY

SKIS OR SNOWSHOES. CLIMBING CLIMBED ON

DURING THE WINTER BECAME MORE POPULAR IN 1914

Whiteface Mountain is the 5th highest peak in New York State, with an elevation of 4,867 ft. The length of the trip is about 10.4 miles and will take about 8.5 hours to hike. Whiteface Mountain is a unique Mountain in that it has a perfectly good access road to just below the summit. Then a short walk through a manmade passage, within the mountain, will bring you to an elevator which will deliver you to the visitor's area near the summit. At the summit, Whiteface Mountain offers a 360-view of the Adirondacks, Vermont and Canada. The views from Whiteface encompass all sides and include the Green Mountains of Vermont, the skyscrapers in Montreal on a very clear day, and the White Mountains of New Hampshire on an even clearer day. Whiteface also has numerous slides on its slopes which would offer excellent bushwhacking and exploring options. Slides however are very dangerous and should only be done by experienced, fit hikers. Whiteface is often times climbed with Esther Mountain. Whiteface is located in Wilmington, New York, which is about 13 miles away from Lake Placid. It is a popular skiing destination, with the highest vertical drop in the eastern United States of 3,430 feet, and was also home to the 1980 Winter Olympics. You may have heard a bit about the Whiteface Ski Center, it's world renowned and still used to this day for world class competition. The ski slopes are not a route to the summit, they end quite a ways from the summit, and it is not recommended.


6

DIX MOUNTAIN 6 Dix Mountain is the 6th highest mountain in New York State, with an elevation of 4,857 ft. A typical trek up to Dix is about 13.2 miles long and on average takes about 10 hours to hike. Dix is both the highest mountain in the Dix Mountain Wilderness and the only one with a marked and maintained tail leading to the summit. Much more remote that the Great or MacIntyre range this area sees few crowds and gives one a good chance to appreciate the silent natural beauty of the Adirondacks. As it is a mostly bald peak it offers some of the best views in the Adirondacks. One can see the entire Great Range to the NW and behind them the lesser peaks of the MacIntyre Range. To the NE is Giant and Rocky Peak Ridge, to the SW is Elk Lake and the E offers a good view of Lake Champlain and the Green Mountains. Dix Mountain is a gateway to four other High Peaks; Hough, Macomb, South Dix and East Dix are all mountains that are reached via Dix Mountain. Are you an experienced hiker? Some enthusiasts take the challenge of hiking all five in the same day. If you’re more of a relaxed hiker, you’re in luck, there are plenty of lean-tos in the area, so if you’re tired, kick back and relax for a while before you reach the top. The best time to climb Dix Mountain is in the summer, because the trail can become very wet during other seasons. Hikers most commonly use the Elk Lake Trail towards Hunters Pass where a spur leads up to Dix Mountain. The peak should not be attempted as a day hike except in fine summer weather and with an early start as it is quite remote, not well traveled and quite a long distance from any trailhead.

OFFERS SOME OF THE

BEST VIEWS IN THE ADIRONDACKS. CAN SEE THE ENTIRE GREAT RANGE

2-DAY

AN EXCELLENT HIKE THAT WAS NAMED BY PROFESSOR EMMONS IN 1837 IN HONOR OF SOLDIER AND STATESMAN JOHN ADAMS DIX



PEAK PAIRINGS THERE ARE SEVERAL PEAKS THAT CAN BE COMBINED INTO ONE TRIP

1

PANTHER, CHOUCHSACHRAGA, AND SANTANONI

WRIGHT, ALGONQUIN, AND IROQUOIS

SEWARD, DONALDSON, EMMONS, AND SEYMOUR

SKYLIGHT, MARCY, AND GRAY

COLVIN AND BLAKE

REDFIELD AND CLIFF

CASCADE AND PORTER

SAWTEETH, GOTHICS, ARMSTRONG, UPPER WOLF JAW, AND LOWER WOLF JAW

STREET AND NYE

NIPPLETOP AND DIAL

10

20

30

HIKERS TEND TO CLIMB PEAKS CLOSE TO THE ROAD FIRST AND CLIMB DISTANT PEAKS WITH UNMARKED

40

TRAILS TOWARD THE END. MANY END WITH WHITEFACE TO CELELBRATE WITH OTHERS WHO CAN DRIVE UP TO CELEBRATE THEIR 46TH PEAK.

46

42 PEAKS


7

GRAY PEAK 7 Gray Peak is the 7th highest mountain in New York State, with an elevation of 4,840 ft. The hikeis about 16 miles and will typically take 14 hours to climb round trip. Gray Peak is the highest mountain without a maintained trail leading to the summit. Most hikers take a path leading from Lake Tear of the Clouds, but sometimes it is hard to find the trail head. Note, there is a small cairn marking the start of the path, so keep your eyes peeled. The peak has an act of putting on two totally different faces depending on the season. In summer it is slightly treed with stunted growth, in winter the trees are buried and it resembles that of a bald summit. Gray sits right off the west shoulder of Mount Marcy, giving it outstanding views of its big sister. Gray Peak can be approached from several different directions. There are great camping opportunities at Uphill and Feldspar lean-tos if you wanted to make a weekend of the hike. A day trip can be very taxing on the body and will consume your entire day. “Start at the outlet of Lake Tear of the Clouds and climb over a ridge and across into a valley. (When descending, do not be misled down this valley, as it is very rough going and joins Feldspar Brook well below Lake Tear.) The route then heads N to the summit ridge, striking it about 200 yrds. W of the summit.� In winter the easiest way to get there is to descend the West side of Marcy and up and along the ridgeline to the summit. Depending on snow conditions this can be an easy ski or a dangerous ice ridge walk through iced-over bush and cliffs.In summer this route is easy until one hits the tree-line then it quickly becomes quite the slog though the densest scrub and undergrowth that mother nature can throw at you. Gray Peak might be tough for inexperienced hikers, so if you're not into bushwhacking, you may want to rethink this journey.


HIGHEST PEAK WITHOUT A MAINTAINED TRAIL ELEVATION: 4840 FT DIFFICULTY (SCALE 1-7): 7 ASCENT OF CLIMB: 4178 FT LENGTH ROUND TRIP: 16 MI HIKE TIME: 14 HRS FIRST ASCENT BY COLVIN AND HIS GUIDE NYE IN 1872 NAMED FOR PROFESSOR GRAY, NOTED BOTANIST WHO SURVEYED THE AREA IN 1873

MOST HIKERS TAKE A PATH LEADING FROM LAKE TEAR OF THE CLOUDS. A SMALL CAIRN* MARKS THE START OF THE PATH *A CAIRN IS A MOUND OF STONES BUILT AS A MEMORIAL OR LANDMARK

44 PEAKS


HIKIN PARTN MOUN STEWA


NG NERS, NTAIN ARDS


8

IROQUOIS 8

EVIDENCE FROM ARTIFACTS FOUND IN THE AREA THAT THE

CLIMBED BY PEOPLE EONS AGO PEAK WAS

Iroquois Peak is the 8th highest peak in New York State, with an elevation of 4,840 ft. It is the third peak along the MacIntyre Mountain Range and is most often climbed with Algonquin Peak and Wright Peak. The hike is about 11.6 miles long and will take 8.5 hours to climb. Although the trail is a bit rocky, the summit offers a beautiful view of Indian Pass and Wallface Mountain.The primary route ascends most of Wright and all of Algonquin on the way. Iroquois is one of the High Peaks with rare and endangered alpine vegetation; tread lightly and stay on bare rock. Iroquois is blessed with a 360 degree view from its bald summit with amazing views with the best views of Wallface.

47 PEAKS

The easiest route for Iroquois Peak is from the Adirondack Loj and up to the Algonquin trail. Then, venture up and over the Algonquin Peak to the unmarked trial.


9

BASIN MOUNTAIN

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE GREAT RANGE, CONSIDERED THE

SPECTACULAR STRETCH OF TRAIL IN MOST

9

THE AREA ELEVATION: 4827 FT DIFFICULTY (SCALE 1-7): 6 ASCENT OF CLIMB: 3650 FT LENGTH ROUND TRIP: 16.5 MI HIKE TIME: 11 HRS ACCESSIBLE THROUGH

FOUR MAIN TRAILHEADS

FIRST ASCENDED BY COLVIN AND PHELPS 1877

KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR A BOLT IN THE ROCK ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE SUMMIT FROM COLVIN'S SURVEY IN 1876

Basin Mountain is the 9th highest peak in New York State, with an elevation of 4,827 ft. The length of the trip is about 16.5 miles and will take on average 11 hours to hike. Basin sits in the middle of what is considered the most spectacular stretch of trail in the area. This trail has many sections of steep rock, crosses a good deal of open ground and is very treacherous when wet or ice covered. In winter the odd cornice is know to form along this ridge if conditions are right. There are number of narrow ledges that have to be traversed with some exposure and as such extreme caution must be take in these sections as any fall would be fatal. Not a traverse you would want to do with backpacks much better to take one of the many alternate routes around this section of trail and do this section as a day trip or hike it in reverse direction from Haystack to Gothics E to W with packs.

As a peak it stands out quite dramatically with a great bare and rugged area on its West side. One also has a great view of Gothics, Marcy, and the West side of Haystack. Unfortunately trees obscure the view to the South. While on the trail keep an eye out for the large bolt placed in the rock by Verplanck Colvin during the 1876 survey near the East side of the summit.

NAMED BECAUSE WHEN LOOKING AT THE PEAK FROM MARCY OR HAYSTACK YOU

DEPRESSION LIKE A CUP OR BASIN SEE A

BETWEEN THE HIGH PEAK AND THE WEST PEAK

The best way to hike Basin is to take the Phelps trail from the Garden trailhead.

SECTIONS OF

STEEP

ROCK AND NARROW LEDGES. EXTREMELY

DANGEROUS WHEN WET OR ICY


DARK AND WILD


10

GOTHICS 10

Gothics Mountain is the 10th highest mountain in New York State, with an elevation of 4,736 ft. The hike is about 10 miles and will take 9 hours to complete the climb. Gothics Mountain got its name because it is covered with rock slides, resembling Gothic architecture, a style that flouished during the Medieval times. A unique aspect of this mountain is that there are large fixed cables and ladders at certain points throughout the mountain. Take advantage of these points, so sliding down the mountain does not happen. Since Gothics Mountain sits in the middle of the Great Range, the climb is accessible from the Adirondack Loj or Keen Valley.

A little known fact about Gothics Mountain is that at the top, there is a hidden cave. Hike Gothics mountain and find it for yourself. The peak itself can best be described as the most dramatic in the Adirondacks after Marcy and Whiteface. There are at least five areas of open rock surrounding the peak giving it a somewhat alpine look. It has three distinct summit bumps along its summit ridge the highest being the last. There is also a very distinct cirque between it and the nearby Panther Peak. There are also a number of great slide and slab climbs around it some even surpassing the YDS 4 range. Because it is more isolated than Marcy and Algonquin there are usually only a few people on top in good weather.

ELEVATION: 4736 FT DIFFICULTY (SCALE 1-7): 5 ASCENT OF CLIMB: 4070 FT LENGTH ROUND TRIP: 10 MI HIKE TIME: 9 HRS ONE OF THE MOST

DRAMATIC PEAKS WITH 360ยบ VIEWS NAMED FOR RESEMBLANCE TO

GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE

FIRST ASCENT IN 1875 BY COLVIN, MCKENZIE AND PHELPS


ADK 46ERS BY NUMBER

CUMMULATIVE ADK46ERS

8,288

634

46ERS AS OF 2013

WINTER 46ERS

46ER DEMOGRAPHICS 70-79 1% 10-19 11%

60-69 6%

51 PEAKS

WOMEN 30%

GENDER

20-29 20%

AVERAGE AGE: 39.2

MEN 70% AGE

30-39 18%

50-59 24% 40-49 20%

YOUNGEST: IN 2013 WILEY GIFFORD AGE 11 (7959) IN 2013 CAITLIN QUINN AGE 11 (8201)

BY STATE OR COUNTRY

NEW YORK

CANADA

PENNSYLVANIA

MASSACHUSSETTS

VERMONT

NEW JERSEY

337

38

16

15

15

11

CONNECTICUT

VIRGINIA

MARYLAND

CALIFORNIA

NEW HAMPSHIRE

OHIO

10

10

7

4

3

3


HISTORY AND RECORDS

FASTEST 46ER:

FIRST 46ERS HERBERT CLARK, GEORGE MARSHALL, AND ROBERT MARSHALL

3 DAYS 17 HOURS 14 MIN JAN WELLFORD JUNE 27, 2008

FIRST WOMAN GRACE HUDOWALSKI

490 HOURS

202,643 FT

HIKING EQUIVALENT OF WATCHING THE SUPER BOWL 122 TIMES

(ELEVATION) 7X THE ELEVATION OF MOUNT EVEREST 52 PEAKS

578.4 MILES

210,925 CAL

SAME AS HIKING FROM THE ADIRONDACKS TO DETROIT, MICHIGAN

(BURNED) 94X THE AMOUNT BURNED RUNNING IN A MARATHON

COMMON CLIMBING ORDER

FIRST CLIMB PEAKS CLOSEST TO THE ROAD EX: CASCADE

LATER CLIMB

FINAL CLIMB

DISTANT PEAKS WITH UNMARKED TRAILS ARE SAVED FOR LATER ON EX: GRAY

WHITEFACE, SO OTHERS CAN DRIVE UP TO CELEBRATE THE 46TH PEAK


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