WHAT’S NEW

from Fox River Bike Trail Guide_2021

5,000 REASONS TO SMILE

5 new spots along the river, whether you’re looking for a beer garden or soul food

By Jonathan Bilyk | Photos provided by Spencer Plum Photography and Mandrake

s Ken Henricks tells it, he and his business partners were looking for the next chapter for Alter Brewing: a place with a killer view of the water, which would enhance the experience for their fans to enjoy one of their famous craft brews with a great bite to eat. And, as fate had it, they found no place finer than the shores of the Fox River in downtown St. Charles. “Whether it be conscious or subconscious, human beings are drawn to water,” says Henricks, president of Alter Brewing. “The Fox River Valley in St. Charles has some of the most stunning river views in the world.” And in 2020, Henricks and the team at Alter numbered among several food and drink purveyors to take the plunge and open new establishments against the current of one of the most challenging years for restaurateurs in modern history. From Elgin to Yorkville, in St. Charles, Geneva, Aurora and Oswego, daring restaurant owners tossed together bold concepts and enticing menus, with a dash of business acumen and a heaping helping of tenacity to plow ahead with

planting and growing culinary establishments. Now they’re ready to welcome communities as a year of quarantines and lockdowns at last comes to an end. Since 2018, Henricks and his business partners, David Yob, Pete Kosanovich and Mark Hedrick, had sought a new location to build on the success of Alter Brewing’s original location in Downers Grove. In St. Charles, Henricks says, Alter found an “amazing location” in a “vibrant community” that presented “the opportunity to be in a vibrant ‘Main on Main’ setting, with an outdoor presence along one of the most picturesque scenes in all of Illinois.” To take advantage of the setting, Alter added a second-story observation deck above its patio bar. Henricks says the addition allows customers to savor “the serenity of the flowing river, coupled with the juxtaposition of nature’s rolling hills and mature trees,” nestled amid the small-town feel of St. Charles. Henricks says the setting complements Alter’s menu, which features its lineup of craft beers and its new menu, “centered around handhelds, shareables and salads with a smaller but very sophisticated entree section.” Prepared by executive chef Eric Klekamp, the menu includes such appetizers as beer cheese fondue and messy fries, and entrees including a “burger of the week” and a lamb chop entree that Henricks says won Klekamp his job. Alter’s St. Charles location opened in May 2020; the region was two months into the COVID-19 pandemic and its associated government public health restrictions. The combination of the virus and the government restrictions, compounded by an inability for businesses that opened in 2020 to obtain assistance under federal pandemic relief measures, was “almost devastating,” Henricks says. He credits their survival to support from the community, particularly the city of St. Charles, and the draw of their outdoor dining setting. “Thankfully, an outdoor dining presence was part of our DNA prior to COVID,” he says.

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To the south, in Yorkville, restaurateur Adrian Frost credits a different kind of outdoor setting for the success and survival of Mandrake Small Plates & Libations. Frost and his partner, chef Jarrod Johnson, opened Mandrake in July 2020, seeking to bring to Yorkville a fine dining experience hard to find in the suburbs. For six years Frost and Johnson operated a small organic farm west of Yorkville in rural Plano, supplying produce to high-end restaurants in Chicago and experimenting with vegetable varietals. But in November 2019, Frost and Johnson decided to branch off and “open the kind of restaurant they would want to eat at.” After locating a unique site about a block from the Fox River in downtown Yorkville, they set about reshaping the building, assembling their wine list and curating a menu. The menu rotates seasonally, with ingredients from their farm or supplied by high-end suppliers, such as all imported cheeses delivered from Chicago. The winter menu, for instance, included such items as a whole roasted rainbow trout over a bed of parsnip, oyster mushrooms, lardons and horseradish cream; a juniper-scented duck breast; Swedish meatballs; Prince Edward Island mussels; and much more. Frost says the menu may offer new adventures for many, and they’ve relied on drawing a mix of “sophisticated foodies” and those seeking new culinary experiences. “We encourage people to start with what they know, and then build out from there, as their confidence in the flavors grows,” says Frost. And they pair the unique small plate dishes with a deep wine list — more than 300 different vintages. Frost, who serves as the restaurant’s sommelier, says he hopes to eventually grow the list to more than 500. The unique nature of their menu has drawn patrons from throughout the western suburbs and beyond, says Frost, particularly thanks to exposure from regional food bloggers. Through the summer, their tables were booked solid, often two weeks in advance, he says. When COVID-19 restrictions were reimposed in the fall of 2020, Mandrake abided by the rules requiring indoor dining to shut down. And with the inability to modify the menu or the concept for to-go options, Frost says they needed to rely on their own savings to survive the winter. As restrictions have eased, Mandrake has welcomed a growing number of patrons back to their 20-seat dining room on a nightly basis, says Frost. “We know there’s really nothing like this in the suburbs,” he says. “But we believe there is a market for real food out here.”

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DESPITE THE TRAVAILS OF 2020, the Fox River region offers a number of new restaurants for pandemic-weary locals and visitors alike to sample and enjoy. Here are a few that opened in 2020:

ELGIN Moni’s Soulfood Fiesta, 13 Douglas Ave., Elgin: Launched first in DeKalb, owner Monique Howery brought her take on soul food with a Latin twist to downtown Elgin in September 2020. The menu blends Southern food, handed down through Howery’s Black ancestry, with the flavors of Mexican and Jamaican cuisine. As Howery says, the menu is not only creative, but also a reflection of her “pioneering, risk-taking and soulful” personality. ST. CHARLES Alter Brewery + Kitchen, 12 S. First St., St. Charles: Building on the success of its Downers Grove taproom, the restaurant offers views inside, where the brew house pulses as “the heartbeat of the room,” and outside, where the patio dining area and the second-story observation deck offer commanding views of the Fox River and downtown St. Charles. The menu offers an array of chef-created appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrees, all designed to be paired with Alter Brewing’s extensive array of craft beers. AURORA Mora on the River, 43 E. Galena Blvd., Aurora: After closing for the winter, owner Jason Morales is reopening the dining experience that is Mora. The four-story establishment offers diners a choice of three different cuisines, with different floors devoted to American, Italian and Asian cuisine. And on the building’s rooftop? Access to all three. Mora also offers a basement speak-easy. OSWEGO 113 Main, 113 Main St., Oswego: Opened in downtown Oswego in late December, 113 Main offers diners an array of cocktails and “American fare, but with a unique twist,” according to owner Matt Verde. Made-from-scratch menu items include popular appetizers, such as the short rib poutine and steamed bao buns (think crispy chicken, vegetables, gochujang, cilantro and sesame). Diners can also choose from an array of salads, entrees and sandwiches, including the popular 113 Burger, with a black pepper-crusted patty, applewood smoked bacon, blue cheese and a roasted garlic aioli. And all can be enjoyed in an open, warehouse-like setting, with three large, garage-style doors that can be opened when warmer weather beckons. YORKVILLE Mandrake, 101 W. Van Emmon St., Yorkville: Situated about a block from the Fox River, Mandrake beckons those seeking a more sophisticated approach to fine dining. Mandrake’s seasonal menu features small plate entrees made from fine ingredients, much of which are harvested from the restaurant’s own farm, just to the west near Plano. Mandrake pairs those fine courses with its extensive wine list, currently boasting more than 300 vintages. Diners can also enjoy the guidance of the restaurant’s co-owners, sommelier Adrian Frost and chef Jarrod Johnson, as they explore the culinary experiences the owners say are unmatched in the suburbs.

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Tucker Ave. Elder Ave.Maple Ave. Wood Ln. Park Ln. Elmwood Ave.Catalpa Ave.Sunnyside Ave.Fairview Ave.Hillcrest Ave.Riverwood Ln.Oak Dr. Riverwood Ln.Riverwood Ln.Blackhawk Dr. Riverwood Ln. Bonfield Ave. Fox River Dr. Riverside Dr. River Rd. Willow Dr. Hillside Dr. Oakwood Dr. Essex Ave.Essex Ave. Aurora Ave.Elgin Ave. Woodlawn Ave. Maple Ave. Irving Ave.Jackson Ave. Salina Ave. Park Pl.

Silver Ridge Dr.

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River Grange Rd.Foley Ln. Reserve Dr. River View Dr. Prairie Crossing Dr.Grandfield Dr.Rosebud Dr.Ridge River Dr. Meadow View Dr.

Hilldale Dr. Reserve Dr.

Riverside Dr.

RED GATE RD.

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Bluff Dr. Highview Ct. Park Ln. Meadow Rd.

Fieldcrest Dr. White Bridge Ln. Greenwood Ln. Abbeywood Dr. Crane Rd.

RANDALL RD. STONEHEDGE RD. 5TH AVE.

Iroquois Ave. 25 Bent Ave.North Ave. P

2ND ST.

Dryden Rd. Ray St. Foxford Ln. Peck Rd.Easton Ave.Cheever Ave. South St. South St. Fulton St.Franklin St.Campbell St.James St. Oak St.Wall St.Summit St.Jefferson St.Dodson St. Austin Ave. Oakwood Dr.Euclid Ave.Woodward Ave. Spring St.Chalmers St. James St.Peyton St.Ford St. Center St. Gray St. Fellows St.Oak St. Oak St. Howard St. Fellows St. Union St. Gray St.Roosevelt St.Mosedale St. Eklund Ave. McKinley St. McKinley St. Horne St.Cutler St.Indiana St. Sherman Ave. Hamilton St.Peyton St.Ford St. Stevens St. North St.Center St. Fargo Blvd. Fargo Blvd. Dunstan Rd. Sunset Rd. Shady Ave. Meadows Rd. 7th St.8th St.9th St. Lincoln Ave.Logan Ave.Grant Ave. Charles St. Pine St. Maple Ln. Willow Ln. West Ln. McKinney Ave. 4th St. 7th St. 6th St. 9th St. 10th Ct. 10th St. 11th St. 12th St. 13th St. 5th St. 4th St. 1st St. 12th Ave. Lucylle Ave. 12th Ave. 12th Ave. 11th Ave. 13th Ave. 13th Ave.14th Ave. 13th Ave. 11th Ave. 11th Ave. 10th Ave.9th Ave. 4th Ave. 6th Ave. 5th Pl. 4th Pl. 3rd Pl. 2nd Pl. 3rd Ave.3rd Ave. 2nd Ave.2nd Ave. Riverside Ave. 2nd St. Elm St. Ash St. Richards St. Illinois St. Edison St. 6th St. 5th St. Crissey Ave. Sandholm St. School St. Kane St. Kansas St.Harrison St.Woodlawn St.Harrison St. River Ln. River Ln. 4th St. 4th St. 3rd . St. 2nd St. Dow Ave. GENEVA RD. GENEVA RD. EAST SIDE DR. STATE ST.PRAIRIE ST.MAIN ST. MAIN ST. MAIN ST.DEAN ST. STATE ST. KANEVILLE RD. ANDERSON BLVD. 3RD ST.3RD ST. 7TH AVE. 7TH AVE. 5TH AVE. BENNETT ST. 25 25 64 64 31 31 31 38 38 Illinois St. Bowman St.Walnust St. Walnust Ave. Illinois Ave.Indiana Ave.Ohio AveSouth Ave.Adams Ave. Madison Ave. Moore Ave. Division St. Elm Ave. Hight St.Locust Ave. Beatrice Ave.Fern Ave. Edwards Ave. Pleasant Ave. Ruth Ave. Rita Ave.Jewel Ave. Washington Ave.Adams Ave. Jefferson Ave.Madison Ave.Spring Ave. Cedar St. Cedar Ave. Cedar Ave. Chestnut Ave. State Ave. Wing Ave. State St. Timbers TrailMillington Way Mark St. PRAIRIE PATH PPP W RR

RANDALL RD.

Fargo Blvd.

BURR RD.

DEAN ST.

64 PECK RD.

SM-CL1869534

BOLCUM RD. OLD BURLINGTON RD. 64

BURLINGTON RD.

GREAT WESTERN TRAIL

LA FOX RD.

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