CANAL TOWN Five excursions exploring the I&M Canal State Trail and the downtowns it passes through

By Julie Barichello | Photos by Tom Sistak, Scott Anderson and Julie Barichello

Communities in Starved Rock Country are packed with attractions – and sometimes the route between them is an attraction in itself.

That’s the case with the Illinois & Michigan Canal State Trail, which spans 40 miles across the region and links six downtowns. Hikers and bicyclists can travel the trail through Starved Rock Country’s backyard and see the region from a different perspective. The personality of the trail transforms every few miles, ranging from wooded paths under shady tree canopy to sunny stretches alongside watered portions of the canal. Some miles unroll as a narrow dirt path while others are a wide, crushed gravel route.

Then there’s the scenery: explorers will find an abundance of nature sprinkled with remnants of the decommissioned canal’s history. Sights include woodlands, tall marsh grasses, sandstone bluffs, glimpses of the Illinois River, old canal locks, aqueducts and wildlife.

A popular summer activity is to park in one canal town, then hike or bike to the next one. After soaking in the sights of the trail, visitors can explore more recreational options in and around their destination downtown and fuel up for the return trip at a local eatery.

Here are five trips between canal towns with dining and recreation options to add to a day’s itinerary.

EXCURSION 1: SENECA TO MORRIS

About 10 miles; 3 hours on foot at 3 mph pace; about 1 hour by bicycle

This Stretch Of Trail

Begin in downtown Seneca with a stop at the historic M.J. Hogan Grain Elevator

Built in 1861, the grain elevator allowed local farmers to ship their harvest to Chicago on the I&M Canal. To embark toward Morris, cross Main Street (Route 170) to follow the trail east. Watch for authorized vehicles that access homes along the first few miles of the canal. Farm dogs sometimes greet passing hikers and cyclists from the edge of their property. This stretch of the canal is one of the greenest, with a few marshy patches beyond Seneca village limits and lush tree canopies arching over the trail. Approximately halfway between Seneca and Morris, hikers and cyclists will pass under Five Mile Bridge, which carries Old Stage Road over the trail. Named for its location five miles outside Morris city limits, this is the first timber arch bridge built in Illinois. The Illinois River bends toward the trail in the second half of the journey. When hikers reach Gebhard Woods State Park in Morris, they will find a portion of the trail is closed because of a bridge washout. Follow posted detours in the park to navigate to the city’s downtown.

CANAL TOWN DESTINATION: MORRIS

Visitors who are hungry for a hearty meal can stop at the popular and busy Weits Cafe, a decades-long favorite stop for comfort food. For lighter fare such as deli sandwiches or pizza bread, try Corleone’s Italian Restaurant. Another light option is Letty Mae’s Tea Room, which serves sandwiches, soups, salads and its specialty: tea. To settle in for a slower-paced lunch with craft beer and craft food, try Tully Monster Pub and Grill. Another local favorite is Clayton’s Tap, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. A lively destination for pub fare is Carson Tap House Pub & Eatery. If you’re in town for dinner, check out Clayton’s Rail, where diners will find pub fare as well as Strum’s BBQ. For a hearty fine dining option, Morris Chop Shop is a top destination.

Dessert options abound at Morris Bakery where patrons can find cookies, doughnuts, cupcakes and more. Snacks and sweets also are available at Sweet Tooth, a shop that sells ice cream, fudge

CANAL TOWN: MORRIS – DINING AND RECREATION DESTINATIONS

Make The Most Of Your Visit

The following pages feature a starting point for dining and recreation around the Illinois & Michigan Canal State Trail. Each downtown along the canal is home to many more options than are listed here – one of the best ways to discover everything these downtowns have to offer is to explore on foot.

Please note: Some of the recreational destinations listed require advance bookings. Visit business and location websites for information about hours, services and registration.

and a variety of nostalgic and popular candies. Alpine Coffee Bar is a stop for hot and cold coffees, hot and iced teas, frappucinos, lattes and more. For those looking to step off the trail and relax a while, Montage Wine Bar & Spirits is a full-service wine bar that serves wine, craft cocktails, beer and small plates and regularly hosts live music.

Hikers who are energetic after a meal but want a change of pace can rent an I&M Canal bicycle at Canalport Park with the Movatic app to explore on wheels. Canalport Park is adjacent to the canal trail and features a replica canal boat display, sculptures and a pollinator garden.

EXCURSION 2: SENECA TO MARSEILLES

About 6 miles; 2 hours on foot at 3 mph pace; about 40 minutes by bicycle

This Stretch Of Trail

Like the previous trip, start at the M.J. Hogan Grain Elevator; this time, head west. The wooded trail eventually opens to views of fields and the Illinois River. A farm is nestled between the canal path and river, and passersby will catch glimpses of the resident livestock. About a mile past the farm, hikers and cyclists will pass some of Starved Rock Country’s industrial backyard where several manufacturing and processing plants are dotted along the river.

Two decommissioned canal locks sit along the trail in Marseilles. Trailgoers will encounter Lock 10 first; within the length of a city block, they will reach Lock 9. A short distance farther, a mural welcomes visitors to downtown Marseilles.

CANAL TOWN DESTINATION: MARSEILLES

Upon exiting the trail downtown, a must-see sight is the Middle East Conflicts Wall Memorial. The memorial commemorates military service members who died in Middle East conflicts from 1967 to present. The plaza is a serene and beautiful spot on the Illinois Riverfront. For weekend recreation beyond the canal, check out The Gamer’s Garage Arcade with classic arcade games.

For those who work up an appetite, the menu at Ziggy’s Bar & Grill offers a variety of burgers, sandwiches, wings, tacos and salads, plus a lengthy appetizer list. The Chicago-style menu at Bobaluk’s Beef and Pizza is a local favorite. Ryan’s Eatery strikes a balance between casual and elegant with both its dining room and plates of American food. Coyote Cafe is a go-to for comfort food in a cozy dining room. Illini Lounge is a popular dining destination for American food and pub fare. In the mood for pizza? Sam’s Pizza is a staple for the Marseilles community. Fans of Mexican food can stop at The Family Taco – some of the daily specials offer a light and budget-friendly option.

Those who are feeling ambitious can order a carryout meal and follow Main Street south across the Illinois River for a riverside picnic at Illini State Park. The Illinois River bridge offers a view of the Marseilles Lock & Dam

CANAL TOWN: MARSEILLES – DINING AND RECREATION DESTINATIONS

EXCURSION 3: MARSEILLES TO OTTAWA

About 6 miles; 2 hours on foot at 3 mph pace; about 40 minutes by bicycle

This Stretch Of Trail

Park downtown and pick up the canal trail next to the Laborers Local 393 hall. An early sight on the hike is the former Nabisco plant, an eight-story brick building that towers above the city. Beyond mile marker 75, grass encroaches on large stretches of the gravel trail, giving the path a narrow and rustic appearance. Despite the proximity to several homes’ backyards and North 2753rd Road, most of the next five miles maintain a remote atmosphere.

Between mile markers 78 and 79 is Heritage Harbor. Those who start their journey close to lunchtime can exit the trail to enter the harbor at Knots Landing and grab a meal at Red Dog Grill on the waterfront. Near mile marker 80 is Ottawa’s urban border. Passersby will see Quest Watersports, where hikers can stop to rent e-bikes for two, three or four hours to explore more of the trail and the Ottawa area. Less than a mile from Quest Watersports is the Fox River Aqueduct, which once carried the canal over the Fox River. Hikers and cyclists will cross it to connect with the trail on the other side of the river. Another 0.7 mile farther are two historical links to the canal’s history: the I&M Toll Collector’s House and the Rail Splitter replica canal boat

CANAL TOWN DESTINATION: OTTAWA

Explore downtown Ottawa by exiting the trail at the Toll Collector’s House and heading south on La Salle Street. Arcade fans can play classic games and pinball at O-Nett Gaming Co. Moviegoers can catch afternoon matinees at Roxy Cinemas History buffs can visit Washington Square to see the statue commemorating the site of the first Lincoln-Douglas debate, then embark on a walking tour of the city’s murals. For more history, take a tour of the Reddick Mansion or choose from a variety of walking, driving or biking tours with Awesome Ottawa Tours; for more art, stop at Open Space Art Gallery. To relax and take in scenery along the Illinois River, book an approximately two-hour sightseeing cruise on the Sainte Genevieve Riverboat

Popular stops for treats include Jeremiah Joe Coffee and The Ottawa Bakery. Visitors in town for lunch can order farm-to-table dining at The Lone Buffalo and sample craft beer from its sibling brewery, Tangled Roots Brewing Co. For an American menu with variety that caters to multiple tastes, Court Street Pub is a popular choice. For a casual atmosphere with traditional pub fare, head to JJ’s Pub. For a unique attraction while you dine, visit A’Lure Aquarium Bar and sit at a bar that doubles as an aquarium. The Cheese Shoppe ‘n’ Deli is a short walk from downtown and also easily accessible directly from the trail –the quaint grocery store and deli is a local favorite for sandwiches, pasta and novelty treats from its grocery shelves. Unwind for an afternoon or evening with wine, cocktails and frequent live music at CatsEye Wine Bar

Still in town for dinner? Burgers and sushi are on the menu at B.A.S.H. Seafood lovers also can visit The Beach House For traditional Neapolitan pizza baked in a wood-burning oven, try Iniga Pizzeria Napoletana

CANAL TOWN: OTTAWA – DINING AND RECREATION DESTINATIONS

EXCURSION 4: OTTAWA TO UTICA

About 8 miles; 2 hours 40 minutes on foot at 3 mph pace; about 50 minutes by bicycle

This Stretch Of Trail

Start at the I&M Canal Access parking lot on Boyce Memorial Drive in Ottawa, just north of Lafayette Street. Within the first mile is Lock 11, which raised and lowered the canal’s water levels before the waterway was decommissioned. Sandstone bluffs are visible to the north at regular intervals. Past mile marker 84 is Lock 12, where a bridge offers an overlook of the structure. For an added dose of scenery, exit the canal path a half-mile past mile marker 85 at a trail access parking lot and cross Dee Bennett Road to Buffalo Rock State Park, which is home to overlooks of the Illinois River, sandstone bluffs and three resident bison. Beyond Buffalo Rock, the canal trail cuts through several miles of marshland before becoming more wooded near Utica. Between Buffalo Rock and Utica is one of the most secluded sections of the trail in Starved Rock Country. n Want to bike this section but didn’t bring your own? Rent one from Quest Watersports. See p. 43 for details.

CANAL TOWN: UTICA – DINING AND RECREATION