TROPICAL ADVENTURE

Cruising the big blue on a live-aboard yacht

By Erwin Bursik

USUALLY when one conjures up the idea of a fishing trip with friends and/or family,everything is centred around the fishing,and all other aspects such as onshore accommodation fade into the background. One often has to work hard to convince those contemplating joining such an excursion — especially spouses — that the beautiful waving palm trees and white sandy beaches override the reality of the often fairly basic accommodation and facilities.Besides,as the organisers of such excursions often say,“This is,after all,a fishing trip.”

There is,however,another option that will generally supersede anyone’s expectations,and that is a holiday on a live-aboard luxury catamaran operating off the tropical coastline of Moçambique,southern Tanzania,Kenya or the Seychelles islands.

These trips not only provide extraordinary angling potential,but also a unique experience of onboard luxury and an array of other experiences,depending on the party’s preferences.Guests can spend their time basking in the sun, snorkelling in protected coral lagoons,fishing according to the style and pace determined by the party,and end their days watching the sun dip beyond the western horizon,all while enjoying their favourite tipple and being served scrumptious, freshly prepared meals.

After the sun sets guests can relax aboard the boat in the company of friends,enjoy the display as a myriad tiny fish are attracted to the craft’s transom lights — and are often attacked by the predatory species lurking just outside the pool of light — and even have a late evening try fishing with a flick stick before hitting the sack.

Having experienced this extremely enjoyable experience a few times off the south Tanzanian islands,central Moçambique and the Seychelles,I can unequivocally state that the experiences were unbeatable.I would even go so far as to say that a week aboard such a craft — regardless of the actual fishing — produced memories and experiences that cannot be equalled.Even the one trip when King Neptune clearly decreed that we would hardly catch any gamefish,did not disappoint us,as we were blown away by the adventures we had exploring coral reefs and vast lagoons,and enjoying African sunsets amid scenery that cannot be replicated other than on a live-aboard craft.

For those hell-bent on harnessing themselves to a rod all day,Kirsten Daniels’s write-up below and photographs alongside will convey what guests aboard Adventure Tropicale’s boats can experience if that’s what they want to focus on. There are,however, anglers who may wish to spend their days undertaking more relaxed fishing by trolling through the pristine waters in which these boats operate,where sailfish,small marlin and other pelagic gamefish abound. That’s much more relaxing and enjoyable if you ask me,but when it’s your party you get to dictate the terms.

While the main purpose of such a live-aboard adventure may be the fishing,the craft’s captain will,at the request of the party’s leader,change tactics to take them snorkelling,sight-seeing or whale watching, or change fishing tactics to comply with the style of angling preferred by those aboard.

A week spent on an adventure of this nature will provide the group with memories that cannot be replicated by fishing holidays on land;it truly is something special.

For those who wonder what the week can hold if it truly is mainly the fish you’re after,Adventure Tropicale’s Kirsten Daniels offers this taster…

It’s 14.45 and we’re awaiting the clients’arrival at Quelimane Airport in Moçambique.At our meet and greet it’s obvious the gang are pretty excited.We bail the boys and girls into the taxis and head off on a short ten minute drive to Quelimane’s port where Belle-Esprit and Belle-Mer lie in wait to take their guests on an unequalled fishing adventure.

Cold beverages are served when the guests board the yachts, then there’s a safety briefing before everyone is shown to their cabins to unpack and get comfortable.When they next emerge on the topdeck there is the unmistakable aroma of fresh Quelimane prawns on the braai as our first dinner of prawns served with Portuguese rice and green salad is prepared.

Around 5pm we throw the ropes and head down the Bons Sinais River toward the delta.This 16-mile journey takes about three hours,with the skipper ever watchful for local fishing nets and sandbanks.Meanwhile the anglers take the opportunity to set up their tackle,asking numerous questions as the anticipation for the adventure ahead climbs higher and higher.

Once we pass the white buoy we’re officially out at sea and turn for the Primieras Banks.The music is pumping and everyone enjoys a few ice-cold refreshments while they share stories of other memorable fishing trips until they retire for the first night at sea.Back in their cabins,the moans of the craft and the sound of the ocean against the hull lull the guests into a sleep filled with dreams of the days to come.

Early the next morning,as we approach the banks,the trolling lines are put out by the crew.BANG! The clients are awoken by a very excited skipper yelling “Fish on! Fish on!” Our day has begun!

As the anglers scramble for rods,they’re still in various states of disarray — some still in their PJs,some with toothbrushes still wedged firmly in their mouths,some already reaching desperately for water.Coffee and rusks are served as we move into the strike zone of the shoal known as Pantaloon1.Aqua blue waters await the guests as they prepare their popping and jigging tackle,the excitement tangible.

“Pop till you drop,boys!”is the audible instruction from the skipper upstairs.Suddenly,without warning there’s a big “boil”and an angler goes tight on a beautiful giant trevally.The rod bends almost to breaking point,the fixed spool reel screaming while the angler on the other end hangs on to the rod for dear life.

After a good battle the fish is brought alongside,landed and — after a quick photograph with the exuberant angler — quickly and safely released.Strike one,with many more to come.

As a matter of interest,the average number of species caught on a trip varies between 30 and 35,with most clients either catching their “first”of a species or a new “PB”.

The excitement never stops,with clients getting strike after strike throughout the morning session.Eventually guests sit down for a wholesome breakfast and a much needed rest, with bacon,eggs,toast,chorizo,omelettes and plenty more up for grabs.

After breakfast,feeling the effects of some sore arms and weary backs,a few anglers might opt to try their luck with some light tackle bucktail jigging for the many species of reef fish as well as the good number of pelagics in the area like king mackerel,queen mackerel and rainbow runners.

Often curious sailfish come around the boat to investigate the disturbance of the poppers and tease the anglers into a frenzy,and sometimes we will even have a sailie hit the poppers and stick baits.The sailfish we catch here are generally of a good size,often measuring between 180cm and 250cm.

The spoils of the morning’s catch —often delicious seared tuna and salads or fresh sashimi — will be served up for lunch while the guests sit around the table discussing the day’s events over some good food and ice cold beverages. Meanwhile the rhythmic lapping of the water against the double hulls blocks out all thoughts of cellphones and emails.

Their fishing urge sated for a while,some of the clients might drop into the water after lunch to cool off.Equipped with snorkles and goggles,they’ll enjoy the unimpeded view of reef fish swimming below.

The afternoon is another good long fishing session with a lot of banter and good laughs,or else there’s time to just kick back and relax until you feel like picking up a rod again.

In the early evening everyone aboard drinks in the sight of yet another beautiful African sunset,sitting on the nets on the bows enjoying a well deserved sundowner.

At dinner time the crew will serve up a fresh fish on the grill with good old homemade chips and salads,with a nice chilled bottle of vino to boot.

After a hot shower,with full bellies and memories of an amazing day,the merry men and women head off to bed,and by 8.30pm the yacht is quiet again...

Early the next morning the shouts ring out across the water again and Voltaren are handed out like Smarties for the sore bodies,but even the aches and pains cannot dull the excitement and anticipation of what the big blue has in store for us for the day...