SHIFT ESSENTIALS SHEI MAGAZINE’s Monthly Digital Mini | Volume 3 Issue 3 | DECEMBER 2016
SHIFT EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Aaron Pelo
IN THIS ISSUE
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Courtney Evans FEATURES EDITORS PRINT Lauren Guldan DIGITAL Alexander Rakestraw FASHION EDITORS PRINT Mackenie Kimball Hannah Wasserman DIGITAL Audrey Klomparens DESIGN EDITORS PRINT Morgan Lovay Xinyi Liu DIGITAL Haley Fox PHOTO EDITORS PRINT Shannon Maiers Becca Rudman DIGITAL Brian Beckwith VIDEO EDITOR Maggie McMillin DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Regan Anderson
02. masthead 04. contributors 06. from the desk of the editor-in-chief
08. menswear
Should you put in time and effort to build then maintain a menswear capsule wardrobe? When the results are this powerful, you’ll be happy you did.
12. dress your family in denim 18. the article
PUBLISHER Kassie Wallace ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR Colleen Natzke MARKETING DIRECTOR Maddy Moog ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Hali Levandoski DISTRIBUTION COORDINATOR Amber Lam
22. shei’s essential reading for winter break 24. six outfit essentials These tips will get you through the holiday season worry-free. Remember: cakes. not spanx.
FINANCE COORDINATOR Lauren Ayers EVENTS COORDINATOR Maggie O’Connor OUTREACH COORDINATOR Carly Dineen-Griffin SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Sylvia Sankaran
Our mission is to inform, inspire and engage deeply with the University of Michigan ca provide a marketable media platform for students to push the boundaries of what has
Index | Volume 3 Issue 3
28. hygge
46. un-excess-orize
32. the turtleneck complex
52. the five sneakers that shaped 2016
34. building a look
56. the basics
36. unconventional versatility 42. gender, innessential Introducing the 2016-2017 SHEI Board of Executives
ampus community at the intersection of student and professional life within the fashion industry. SHIFT is intended to s traditionally been possible within print without compromising the level of quality associated with the SHEI brand.
SHIFT
december contributors FASHION Elen Odulak Blake Pittman Aishu Chandrakanthan Maddie Thimas-Little Lauren Tahari Alexandra Plosch Lindsey Medd Harsha Kishore Anne Nie Sabrina Zayek Adam Va Osdol Cam Starwalt FEATURES Caleb Hogeterp Natalie Sochaki Sophie Cloherty Kai Mason PHOTO Tina Yu Aliya Falk Amily Yang Derrick Lui Kevin Zheng Benjamin Bear Olivia Gardella
FASHION Molly Shulan Sara Agnone Alana Valko Kristin Swad Rishita Ghosh Jamie Schneider Liv Verlarde Jenny Ruan Cat Marchenko Jessica Vu Carly Wilson
Jamie Schneider Madi Kantor Amber Mitchell Alex Rakestraw P HOTO Baishu Ciu Yael Brown Jonathan Ye Hannah Sybil MacDonald Sophie Kofoid Brian Beckwith
VIDEO Paige Wilson Hannah Sybil MacDonald DESIGN Erin Mitchell Lizzy Marics Jordan Turkomani Sara Groenke MODELS Rachel Slaker Marissa Frent Rachek Brandes Wency Zhao MAKE-UP ARTISTS Blake Pittman Susie Meaney Lauren Elizabeth Westphal
Aubrey O’Neal DE SIGN Livia Choi Aliya Falk Julia Margalit Kitlyn Beukema MODELS Zoe Hunter Allison Fedler Alyssa Steinhoff Isabel Schuler Tina Yu Soumi Santra
The Politics of Fashion, SHEI Fall 2016
now available at via distribution@sheimagazine.com
Culture. Lifestyle. Michigan.
SHEI Magazine
ESSENTIALS
not just what you can live with; what you can’t live without
written by Aaron Pelo photographed by Tina Yu
Letter from the Editor | Volume 3 Issue 3
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016 was chaotic, tumultuous, full of heated debate. This past year certainly exposed the complexities of the world we live in, and sometimes in the most unsettling of ways. The same is true of the fashion world. Within the first month of the new year it was announced Grace Coddington, Vogue’s iconic redheaded Creative Director would be stepping down from her near 30-year position at the magazine. In the months that followed a number of fashion world favorites stepped down from top positions at some of the biggest houses, and they were filled, as always, by a new cohort. Most notable perhaps is the appointment of Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga after Alexander Wang’s three-year tenure at the house. Dior, Lanvin, and Valentino also had major staffing shake-ups. After a year of complexity and uncertainty we wanted to get back to basics, turn to what we can always rely on. This issue is all about ESSENTIALS. You’ll see our winter must-haves in an icy knitwear
shoot, how to wear a singular piece in a number of ways, and you’ll also want to revive that old denim jacket; this age-old essential isn’t going anywhere. You’ll also find out what to add to your holiday reading list from our book connoisseur Natalie Sochaki, and from sneakerhead Alex Rakestraw, the definitive essential footwear. We also take a look at one of fashion’s, and society’s, essential questions: what is gender? What we wear is one of the essential ways we express our individuality, our identity. As a new year approaches it may be time to look inward, redefine or reaffirm the basics of our personalities, and find the pieces to reflect our essential selves. SHIFT with us.
MENSWEAR
Jonas Lindstroem, Uniqlo Co., Ltd., 2016
Olivier Hadlee Pearch, APC, 2016
F
ashion, like a hurricane, both creates and destroys as its cycles turn. With time, new trends develop and old trends fall out of the limelight. This constant change, while exciting, creates difficulties when it comes to developing a cohesive collection of clothes. As new styles emerge, the fashion-conscious among us spring for brand new garments, regardless of their overflowing closets at home. This buildup of clothing creates waste: entire portions of a person’s wardrobe will sit, gathering dust, after just one season of wear. While changing trends can be exciting, little attention is paid to the clothes that tend to stick around. These are your personal wardrobe essentials: that denim jacket you’ve owned since high school; those black jeans you wear three times a week; the sneakers you throw on when you want to look put together. In an age defined by social media microtrends and designer burnout, it’s more important than ever to focus on the basics. Put simply: if you’re a guy looking to improve your style, you need a capsule wardrobe. The concept of a “capsule wardrobe” was first developed in the 1980s by Susie Faux, the owner of several popular London boutiques. A capsule wardrobe consists of a small number of versatile pieces, garments built for mixing and matching that in turn build a wide array of outfits. A typical menswear capsule wardrobe starts with the paring back of a currently-bloated wardrobe to the bare essentials (three solid color tees, a few pairs of jeans in different washes, etc.), then, the addition of a mere handful of trendier pieces. While this dramatically-simplified wardrobe may seem limiting, building your style around “versatile basics” paradoxically gives you more room for expression. With your style foundation taken care
of by the basics, more effort can be put into expressing personal style. For men, “versatile basics” often fit the following three criteria:
1. NEUTRAL COLOR
Aim for neutral tones like greys, blues, earth tones, and of course, blacks and whites. Colors that complement your complexion and the remainder of your wardrobe are equally as valid.
2. MINIMALIST DESIGN
With basics, simpler is better. Look for clean lines and minimal stitching.
3. VERSATILITY Basics are in your wardrobe
to provide a broad foundation for your personal style. If you have a pair of jeans that can only be incorporated into one or two outfits, consider replacing them with a wider-reaching pair. Even with these three criteria as guides, focusing on basics isn’t the same as succumbing to a stream of constant monotonous outfits. Instead, basics create the support system used to show off statement pieces in a better light. To see this in action, look no further than the humble white sneaker. A casual outfit will be able to seamlessly incorporate a white sneaker 99% of the time, making it possibly one of the most reliable pieces of footwear you can own. It’s easy to see how the easy-to-wear style of white sneakers has made them a fashion heavyweight. First released in 1971, the adidas Stan Smith was the first leather tennis shoe ever created. Its popularity has endured for decades, and today is one of the most recognizable casual shoes in the world. That’s not to say capsule wardrobes exclude statement pieces – rather, a menswear capsule wardrobe provides a context in which to better show them
off. While an outfit consisting of only basic pieces will be consistently presentable (if not fashionable), an outfit overloaded with bold pieces will likely appear garish. With a strong base laid out, an outfit can be expanded in any which way to express any individuals’ tastes, personality, and style. Returning to the basic white sneaker: shoes like the adidas Stan Smith are low-top and sleek, minimizing the contrast from shoe to pant opening. This allows for the focal point of the outfit to appear elsewhere, leaving room for daring trend pieces (pieces that fit an individual’s unique personality) to steal the show. In this way, a capsule wardrobe provides both effortless style and a framework for personal expression – essentially, the perfect style solution. Formerly the secret of London boutique owners, the power of the capsule wardrobe is now recognized by both individuals and brands alike. Since the introduction of the Gap fast fashion business model, many of the world’s largest apparel companies (H&M, Ralph Lauren, etc.) have built empires on the simple notion of producing collections that emphasize timeless basics. Uniqlo, a Japanese brand with a focus on simplicity, longevity, and quality, has built a global reputation on its frugal, well-constructed basics for both men and women. The recent Fall/Winter 2017 collection of the brand’s designer “Uniqlo U” line reinvented wardrobe staples with slight twists, resulting in a range of anything-but-basics. Many of Uniqlo U’s pieces draw influence from previous Uniqlo seasons, yet also reflect the high-fashion sensibility of Christophe Lemaire, Uniqlo’s newly-appointed Creative Director. In a similar vein, Jean Touitou’s “Atelier de Production et de Création” (or “A.P.C.”) markets itself as a discreet-yet-luxurious producer of minimalist basics. This is reflected in the brand’s online store, which organizes each seasonal collection by color scheme, rather than garment type. While this recent influx of accessible basics has made it increasingly easier to build your own capsule wardrobe, there’s never a bad time to start. The process is as simple as the results: just go home, audit your collection of essential pieces, then decide which handful of louder pieces you’d like to work into your outfit rotation. However, make sure to leave room for growth: integrating capsule wardrobe thinking into your personal style isn’t something completed in an afternoon, but rather, an ongoing process. Will you put in time and effort to build then maintain a menswear capsule wardrobe? Sure. But when the results are this powerful – simple, versatile, consistently-great outfits – you’ll be happy you did.
Will you put in time and effort to build then maintain a menswear capsule wardrobe? Sure. But when the results are this powerful – SIMPLE, VERSATILE, CONSISTENTLY-GREAT OUTFITS – you’ll be happy you did.
Studio Wadeck Photographers, Adidas Group, 2016
written by Caleb Hogeterp layout by Erin Mitchell
dress your
family in denim DIRECTORS Elen Odulak Blake Pittman STYLISTS Molly Shulan Sarah Agnone Lauren Tahari PHOTOGRAPHER Baishy Cui Aliya Falk MODELS Rachel Slaker Zoe Hunter MAKE-UP ARTIST Blake Pittman
Vogue, Ready-to-Wear Collection, Spring 2017
OO
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It would take nearly half a century – and a revival led by Chloe Lonsdale, the daughter of the founder – to revitalize the Made in Heaven brand. By then, customers had come to see denim as contemporary fashion, and so, were at least open to the idea of upscale jeans. Working with her father’s designs, the younger Ms. Lonsdale widened the legs and shifted the waist upwards to create high-rise jeans that talked and walked a fashionable image. Just like that, Made in Heaven – and the future of upscale denim – was back on track. Lonsdale’s creativity speaks to the bigger evolution of denim from “street to chic.” In a 2013 interview with Business of Fashion, the designer expressed her vision as a sign of the times: “My aim was not to create a 70s product, my aim was to make a relevant, modern product; to make timeless jeans. A beautiful pair of jeans is something that gets better with age and wear.” In her opinion, the allure of high fashion denim stems from the fact that pieces can be modern and trendy, yet still maintain the familiarity of a brokenin favorite. This same founding ethos inspires more than just jeans: Marques’Almedia’s Marta Marques famously quipped to UK newspaper The Independent that “[her label] always [has] a denim jacket, but it’s got a hint of the season.” The gradual emergence of denim into high fashion began with traditional pieces, yet slowly but surely evolved to take the innovative forms. Because denim fabric itself is both durable and pliable, designers have the creative freedom to
mold the fabric into on-trend silhouettes, while still keeping the same overall feel. It’s this versatility that allows denim to easily pair with more conventional luxurious fabrics, as seen when Marc Jacobs layered his sheer, beaded fabrics over boyfriend jeans at his farewell Louis Vuitton collection in 2014. The general societal shift towards casualwear also catalyzed for denim’s infiltration in high fashion. A 2014 Business of Fashion article observed that people in every corner of the globe were dressing more casually than ever, with an emphasis on comfort clothing dominating both officewear and street style. This shift could explain why runways incorporate luxury elements with more casual fabrics like denim, developing the trend while appealing to consumer tastes. “There is a micro-trend to offer denim apparel that is not just jeans, but also dresses, shirts, and outerwear,” Kate Smith, a senior fashion and retail market analyst at Edited, said in Business of Fashion. “We’re seeing a use of the fabric in a greater assortment of items.” However, just as its found its footing, denim’s place as a high fashion essential appears threatened by the inevitable rise of another casual, functioninspired trend: athleisure. Some designers see this growth in comfortable activewear as similar to the rise of first-slubby, now-chic premium denim. In fact, athleisure is even infiltrating runways in similar ways. Maison Margiela’s John Galliano added quite the accessory to his Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection at Paris Fashion Week:
the yoga mat. The mat, according to Vogue, was a way for Galliano to incorporate this essential for athleisure into high fashion, as well as strengthen the public’s fascination with premium activewear. According to a 2016 article in Glossy, even luxury department stores such as Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman have embraced this trend, carrying pieces such as Rihanna’s Fenty Collection with Puma, Public School joggers, and Common Projects luxury sneakers. Products and collections like these market towards newlywealthy millennial customers who are already on board with the stylistic shift away from denim and straight towards athleisure. “From beach to street to some offices, the legging is part of the [modern] lifestyle,” Tom Julian, a director at market research firm Doneger Group, said in Business of Fashion. “And just as the industry has been successful in marketing denim for the office, formal, weekend, seasons, locations… activewear makers will be able to do the same.” While it’s still too early to say whether athleisure will usurp denim on the streetwear hierarchy, today’s designers are still partial towards denim as a fashion essential. From its humble utilitarian roots, denim has risen to capture both headlines and imaginations alike. To quote the great Karl Lagerfeld: “Denim is the universal material. Fashion without jeans does not exist.”
written by Jamie Schneider layout by Livia Choi
SHEI’S ESSENT
this winte
I
t’s the most wonderful time of the year—to read. With classes almost finished, flights almost boarded, and homes almost come home to, leisure time has finally returned. Why not fill some of that newfound time reading what you want to read instead of reading what you have to? Thanks to the seemingly-endless stream of books released each year, it can be daunting to choose exactly which thrilling, scary, or heartbreaking title is worthy of your precious holiday break. With this in mind, SHEI compiled a list of some of the season’s essential books so you can go back to more important holiday choices. Like which Christmas cookie to eat next.
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UNDERGROUND RAILROAD – Colson Whitehead
Recently awarded the National Book Award, Underground Railroad asks the question, “What if the Underground Railroad was a literal railroad rather than a mere metaphor?” Through a cast of vibrant characters and some creative storytelling, Whitehead exposes the terrors of the antebellum South while exploring the contemporary American landscape born from that brutal past.
THE MOTHERS – Brit Benett
The New York Times Bestseller The Mothers is already causing quite a stir. Set in a contemporary black community in California, The Mothers concerns big themes like community, love, ambition, and the decisions that haunt us. Follow Nadia Turner, a grief-stricken teenager mourning the loss of her mother, as a secret she must carry affects her throughout her life.
HILLBILLY ELEGY – J. D. Vance
Perhaps the most poignant book published this year, Hillbilly Elegy gives readers a look into the author’s childhood in working class Appalachia. Mixing his personal story with social analysis and historical critique, Vance explores how America’s underrepresented working class lost faith in any chance of upward mobility. Essentially, Elegy details how an entire region of the country watched the American Dream disappear. It’s a brilliant book that couldn’t have come out at a better time, one that will help many understand the feelings and fears of their fellow Americans.
TIAL READING
er season
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IN THE WOODS – Tana French
There’s nothing like a good psychological thriller on a cold, winter night. In the Woods begins with almost menacing simplicity: one day, three kids go missing in the neighborhood woods. Only one of the three is ever found. His shoes are filled with blood, and he has no memory of the last hours. Years later, that same little boy (now grown up, and serving his town as a murder detective) is tasked with investigating a crime in the very same woods. A page turner filled with beautifully chilling prose, In The Woods is the perfect fireside novel.
LIFE AFTER LIFE – Kate Atkinson
Whether you love historical fiction or not, Kate Atkinson’s novel will have you hooked from the first chapter. Ever wondered what it would be like to live again, and again, and again? In Life after Life, readers step into the shoes of Ursula, a woman stuck in a cycle of death and continuous rebirth. It’s a genius concept that makes for a thrilling read. Life after Life leaves audiences questioning just how one life can change the course of history.
AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF RED – Anne Carson
Autobiography of Red is many things: it is equal parts novel and poem; it is a re-creation of an ancient Greek myth; on top of that, it is even a coming-of-age story. It’s mesmerizing. It’s odd. You better believe it’s unconventional. Simply put, it’s perfect for poetry and prose lovers alike.
SCRAPPY LITTLE NOBODY – Anna Kendrick
Because, everyone loves Anna Kendrick and, believe it or not, her book is almost as entertaining as her.
written by Natalie Sochaki layout by Lizzy Marics
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Outfit Essentials
To Get You Through This Holiday Season ‘Tis the season for bright lights, last-minute shopping (thank you Amazon Prime), and a never-ending flow of amazing food. Kicking off with the delicious Thanksgiving feast and lasting until the inevitable “carb free” New Year’s Resolution, the holiday season is jam-packed with pies, stuffing, cookies, potatoes, and lots more. Rather than restrict food intake (who wants to count cookies on Christmas?), follow these 6 essential holiday outfit tips so you can treat yo’ self all season and still look good doing it. written by Madi Kantor layout by Aliya Falk
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Jeans Are An Absolute NO Denim? Don’t even think about it. Jeans during the holiday is the fashion industry’s way of judging you for that second piece of pie. It doesn’t matter how comfy you think your favorite pair is, or even how cute that new distressed denim will be in photos. If you wear jeans to the dinner table, you will regret it the moment you sit down to your nice holiday meal and feel your circulation cut off. Not only does this lead to a physicallyuncomfortable meal, but it also brings your mood down during what is supposed to be a time filled with holiday cheer. So, repeat after me: from Thanksgiving to New Year’s, say NO to jeans!
Wear Dark Colors (AKA Anything But White) Suggestion #2: pick dark colors. Not only do dark colors pop against the bright white snow we all know we’re getting this holiday season, but they also hide stains. Speaking from personal experience, light clothing and winter holidays always disagree. Wearing white in the winter means choosing between not getting the hot chocolate or instead wearing brownishgrayish-white stained outfits in the winter. When your social media presence demands that ideal winter #aesthetic of untouched snow behind your gigantic mug of marshmallow hot chocolate, just buy it in black. Or dark gray. Or olive. Or maroon. Or even navy. You get the point.
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Comfort Is Everything It’s only logical that comfort food and comfy clothes go hand in hand. But, with a full slate of parties and dinners, the holidays also mean lots of opportunities to dress up! To have the best of both worlds, lean towards cute, cozy clothing like oversized sweaters, Urban Outfitter always has trendy cut out or sparkly sweaters during the holiday time that connect cozy and cute, or even leggings if the dress code allows. If you’re set on wearing a dress, try adding a cardigan or those trendy new blanket scarves, which serves duel purpose of comfy layering piece and rescue blanket, should you slip into a food coma after all that buttery goodness. Additionally, this focus on comfort definitely extends to shoe choice. While sky high stilettos and those new flats may seem like the perfect addition to your holiday outfit, being stuck in uncomfortable shoes will dampen even the brightest holiday cheer. Lean towards boots, however, and you’ll have a sea of cold-weather options. Designer Steve Madden, for example, breaks out the big guns each holiday, including suede, leather, and gems in his latest seasonal collection.
Cakes, Not Spanx While they may be a good idea in theory, under no circumstances should you be caught dead in Spanx during the holidays. Sure, Spanx make you feel squished the other eleven months of the year, but wearing them to December dinners is just asking for trouble. After one plate, you’ll wishing you could cut yourself out of them. As an alternative, opt for tights: while they still could be uncomfortable, tights won’t crush your organs just because you decided to have that pumpkin pie. There are tons of cool patterned, lacy, and colored tights out there, check out HUE, Calvin Klein, and DKNY tights, which could become the perfect pop of color to your outfit.
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Zippers!!!!! Not to be confused with discretely unzipping your pants at the table to make room for seconds. To jazz up the conventional Little Black Dress, brands like BCBG and ASOS have started added cool details like zippers and cutouts to the classic silhouette. Dresses with decorative side zippers are a holiday essential because 1) they’re cute and 2) you can unzip that zipper to make the dress looser and still have fabric to cover your skin. Not only is this trend stylish and cute, but it will also let you take another scoop of Grandma’s kougal without anyone noticing how bloated you may or may not be.
Never Let Anyone Dull Your Sparkle Finally: add a little (or a lot of) sparkle to your holiday outfit! Not only will fun bracelets, bedazzled headbands, or a statement necklace jazz up your outfit, but the shine from your accessories will also be the first thing that catches anyone’s eye. This is a win-win scenario: friends and relatives will be so mesmerized by your jewelry that they won’t notice you just took the last candy cane. Kate Spade’s classic gumdrop earrings in her sparkly holiday color palette are the perfect distraction, as are Henri Bendel’s jewel encrusted headbands made specifically for the holiday season. Channel your inner Blair Waldorf. Go crazy with the sparkles, gems, and rhinestones to make your outfit shine! These 6 tips will help you have a bright, fun, and jolly holiday season filled with lots and lots and lots of never ending food, and an outfit that will let you eat it all!
hygge DIRECTORS Alana Valko Alexandra Plosch STYLISTS Kristin Swad Lindsey Medd Rishita Ghosh PHOTOGRAPHERS Tina Yu Yael Brown VIDEOGRAPHER Paige Wilson MODELS Marissa Frent Allison Fedler MAKE-UP ARTIST Tina Yu
The Turtleneck Complex The Turtleneck Complex Why You Should Embrace the World’s Least-Loved Essential Why You Should Embrace the World’s Least-Loved Essential
I I
f you Google “who wore the first turtleneck,” you’ll find two hits: 1) “why did Steve Jobs start wearing turtlenecks” f you Google “who wore the first and turtleneck,” 2) “Steve Jobs Gives Interview on Why you’ll find two hits: 1) “why He Wears Turtlenecks.” If you forget about did Steve Jobs start wearing turtlenecks” Google instead search in youronown and ) and “Steve Jobs Gives Interview Why memory you might see a mother in black He Wears Turtlenecks.” If you forget about wool, a father in glasses and gray, a little Google and instead search in your own cousin in fuchsia pink stripes. memory you might see a mother in black Imagine a Christmas wool, a father in glassesmorning and gray,ina the little early 2000s, walking around a pond with cousin in fuchsia pink stripes. yourImagine grandfather swathed inmorning choking in black a Christmas the cotton that your mother wriggled you into. early s, walking around a pond with You feel somehowswathed that your five-year-old your grandfather in choking black face is a target for wind, and when cotton that your mother wriggled you you into. close eyes you can New England You your feel somehow thatfeel your five-year-old airface in pins needles onlywhen on your is and a target for isolated wind, and you chin, your cheeks, yourcan nose. close your eyes you feel New ngland Flash forward and you find turtlenecks air in pins and needles isolated only on your onchin, N’Sync’s Justin your Timberlake your cheeks, nose. on a 1999 album cover in your Flash forward and cousin’s you find basement, turtlenecks in on a N’Sync’s picture of Jackie Onassis on bya your Justin Timberlake 1999 grandmother’s Audrey basement, Hepburn album cover mirror, in youroncousin’s smoking in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, in a picture of Jackie Onassis on bySam your Weir at a kitchenmirror, table in Geeks, grandmother’s onFreaks Audrey&Hepburn onsmoking Drake singing Hotline Bling just in reakfast at Tiffany’s, on last Sam Weir atFor a kitchen table in Freaks Geeks, October. three generations, the concept Drake singing Hotline just last ofon a turtleneck and just who ling would wear
one has consistently evolved. Start with a brief history lesson: if we move quickly past the 1800’s rugby players October. For three generations, the concept who sported what were then called “poloof a turtleneck and just who would wear necks,” find turtlenecks one haswe consistently evolved.as a part of theStart official uniform the USlesson: Navy during with a briefofhistory if we World War II. In the sixties, turtlenecks move quickly past the 1 ’s rugby players became an what emblem feminist who sported were of thenthe called “polomovement because of their unisex quality. necks,” we find turtlenecks as a part of Existentialism claimed the US turtleneck as a the official uniform of the Navy during symbol an II. individual’s genuineturtlenecks truth due World of War In the sixties, tobecame its minimalistic and face-defining nature. an emblem of the feminist Inmovement the eighties, turtlenecks form because of theirbecame unisex a quality. of xistentialism irony, a statement of a certain contented claimed the turtleneck as a self-deprecation. They would soontruth become symbol of an individual’s genuine due atostaple of rom-com posters and typecast its minimalistic and face-defining nature. sitcom nerds alike. Then, nineties In the eighties, turtlenecks becamefashion a form branding turtlenecks commonplace, of irony, amade statement of a certain contented yet painted them largely in ansoon unflattering, self-deprecation. They would become almost decrepit light. posters and typecast a staple of rom-com The result: everyone knew fashion about sitcom nerds alike. Then, nineties turtlenecks, but not always for all the right branding made turtlenecks commonplace, reasons. Endthem history lesson. yet painted largely in an unflattering, Analyze: While broad historical almost decrepit light. generalizations how we individually The result: aren’t everyone knew about understand with turtlenecks,our butrelationships not always for all clothing, the right reasons. history lesson. have always they prove nd that turtlenecks Analyze: broad historical been a part While of our collective fashion
vocabulary. Not only have turtlenecks steadily normalized since their radical debut—they have become inherently ingrained into our culture in the most miniscule, obscure, yet essential of ways. Therefore, it follows that everyone (yes, even you) has a turtleneck complex. Accept: In the furthest, most cramped corner of your brain—if you’re an avid turtleneck advocate, perhaps it occupies a larger space—resides a timeline of your relationship with turtlenecks. It is this timeline that effects whether or not turtlenecks are part of your everyday fashion vocabulary. Reflect: In the modern context, turtlenecks occupy an unfamiliar yet privileged place: prevalent in streetwear, saturated within normcore, yet floating in a cultural sweet spot between both casual and couture. However, turtlenecks themselves are perhaps so charged with nostalgia that it’s not their modern context that decides whether we embrace or reject the look, but rather how we trace our interactions with them through their storied past. The word “turtleneck” itself is inherently linked to an image. Some hear turtleneck and see immediately a stock image of a 1955 James Dean or Audrey Hepburn; others picture a Seth Rogan on SNL circa 1997 as Deeter, the resident German Existentialist. Admit: Turtlenecks are unique because they are infused irreversibly with a kind of tangible nostalgia—equate it perhaps to the way you feel when you see a Christmas tree in an airport on your way home in November. These are the things we love to hate, but regardless leave us feeling slightly warmer, lighter. It is a narrative that will be tied to trends far into the future. Concede: In short, turtlenecks will never not remind us of TED Talks on the technological future, or English majors reading Kierkegaard in big-windowed coffee shops, and that is their beauty. Even better, that beauty might even keep you warm on a frozen New England pond. Try: However, in the context of norm core’s pillaging of all things nineties we may also separate turtlenecks completely from any kind of eighties irony, and instead throw them on under or over just
about anything. Think “simple” on Jackie Onassis circa 1962, or “vibrant” under Alice Silverstone’s blazer in Clueless. Experiment with white under a v-cut corduroy dress, mustard yellow with a pair of white washed jeans. Even try a black sleeveless turtleneck dress. Better yet, wear an over-sized white silhouette on a snowy Wednesday while you expand on your love for turtlenecks through the written word. The essential quality of the piece has moved far past its historical track-record, and is now rather essential as an easy— and let’s not overlook the utility of warm— addition in a cold climate, providing the possibility of refining any look in the most elegantly subtle of ways. Come to terms with your own turtleneck complex. Perhaps break with it for a time in order to capture the entirety of the modern fashion climate—or perhaps let it drive you to make this winter the kind of winter you keep in a box in your basement thirty years in the future labeled “it was the best of times, it was the worst of times.” That is how we track history isn’t it? In boxes filled with our own particular people, wearing their particular color of turtleneck, in our own particular basements. Conclude: lastly, know that Steve Jobs was nowhere near the first person to wear a turtleneck. Steve Job’s iconic black turtleneck was in fact not a product of his own mind but a gift from a friend, Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake. And so, rugby jerseys become philosophical statements become symbols of a retro-dystopian future become normcore become a cold day in fall at five years old. At the center of it all, those least-loved winter essentials which have sparked a cultural conversation centuries in the making. Hang your turtleneck complex in your wardrobe, see it in whatever essential manner you wish: as cold weather easy-wear, as nostalgic homage to your brief flirtation with N’Sync, or even as a faintly ironic staple in your local coffee shop. At the very least, see it as an essential reminder that no piece of clothing is completely untangled from the infinite web of history, this vivid, wonderful crossculture that binds us all.
written by Sophie Cloherty layout by Jordan Turkomani
building a look A
s the last leaves fall from the trees and autumn makes its slow descent into winter, the fashion landscape begins to shift. Thick sweaters, long coats, and festive dresses take the place of light jackets, flannel shirts, and Chelsea boots as winter unavoidably comes. With this arrival comes the allure of the holiday season and plenty of reasons to dress to impress. No matter which specific holidays you celebrate, the winter months bring festivities of all kinds, from office parties, to family get-togethers, or formal gatherings with friends. All these reconnections with family and friends (and let’s face it, the occasional high school ex) present a challenge: how do you present your most polished, put together self for three months straight? Although many publications try to help you upgrade your outfits by filling the Internet with lists of “special” products (this specific J. Crew sweater, that specific gold bangle), building a holiday outfit is about more than picking favorites from a list. Creating a look worthy of turning heads means considering everything from the format of the event to how individual pieces, materials, and
accessories work together. While this may sound like a lot of work, the results are worth it. Here’s our essential method to help you present your best self this holiday season. First, consider the nature of the events on your holiday schedule. Each party or gathering is likely to have an unwritten (or, in the case of formal gettogethers, written and enforced) dress code that is based upon the setting, location, and guest list. An event with just your co-workers presents a very different standard than one that includes your boss’ boss, just as a party at an extravagant restaurant is different than a Secret Santa at a friend’s cozy apartment. Understanding the intent of each event as well as the level of formality is crucial to deciding what to wear. Thinking about this ahead of time will allow you to choose whether to dress up a more casual look or go all out with a fancy dress or skirt. Next, evaluate what you already own within the nature of these holiday events. Reflecting on your closet with a specific context in mind allows you to combine your personal style with the season’s most fashionable colors, patterns, and materials.
Rather than manufacture an outfit piece-by-piece from a list of products, think about your individual taste, style inspirations, and the aspects that you want to incorporate into each look. Then, tie in seasonal colors (red, green, gold, and silver) alongside the materials and prints making a statement in the fashion world today. For example, Anthropologie and several other brands have reintroduced velvet as a holiday fabric with a new line of dresses, shirts, and heels perfect for any gathering that sits comfortably between casual and formal. Combining a pair of velvet heels with a sleek dress presents the possibility of bringing this material to a fancier party as well. Although dresses and skirts fully covered in sequins now have their place in holiday fashion history, adding a little radiance to your look can be accomplished through gold jewelry or a tastefullyembellished purse. Taking the time to reflect on how you want to present yourself, as well as any relevant fashion trends, will create an an outfit that stands out from the crowd. In addition, reflecting on your holiday outfits saves you money during one of the most expensive times of the year. Considering how much it costs to travel home, buy gifts, and cook for gatherings, minimizing the new pieces you purchase is as essential as the outfits themselves. One easy way to do this is by transitioning aspects of your fall wardrobe to your holiday outfits.
For example, the button-up corduroy skirts that made a splash this September can easily be incorporated into a cozy winter looks, especially in black or red. Madewell and other stores have worked on transitioning plaid into the winter months by creating skirts and blouses that incorporate holiday colors with the classic pattern. For more casual events, these pieces can bring holiday cheer and comfort at once without having to buy a brand new shirt. Another way to decrease the amount of clothing purchases is to look through your closet for pieces in traditional holiday colors like red, green, or silver and make them work with the holiday clothing items that you do buy. This way, you can appear completely polished without blowing your savings or throwing yourself into some very un-merry credit card debt. When it comes to dressing your absolute best, there’s no better time than the holidays. Being in the company of people that you know closely and love is one of the best opportunities to celebrate through the art of fashion and individual style. Simply taking the time to plan for an event’s dress code then sorting through your closet gives existing pieces a fresh twist, helping reduce expensive new purchases while creating a look worth celebrating. With a little thought, your holiday outfits – and your personal style – will shine bright.
by Amber Mitchell layout by Julia Margalit
UNCONVENTIONAL
VERSATILITY DIRECTORS Harsha Kishore Liv Verlarde STYLISTS Jamie Schneider Aishu Chandrakanthan Maddie Thomas-Little PHOTOGRAPHER Amily Yang Jonathan Ye MODEL Rachel Brandes MAKE-UP ARTISTS Susie Meaney
Gender, Inesse W
Photo courtesy of Helmut Lang Resort Collection 2017
here is the line between the masculine and the feminine? And in an age where gender is deemed a social construct, just how essential is that line? It’s a question that arises in an attempt to analyze the present-day aesthetics of “cool.” Many would argue that we’re living in an incredibly unique moment in the history of fashion, a moment occupied in an age that often centers on the idea, or question, of gender. Even the most cursory look at the trends dominating headlines today—the triumph of the tomboyish look, featuring the athleticism of brands like Adidas; the rise of gender-neutral clothing, like the skirts for men at Louis Vuitton; the success of gender-fluid figures in mainstream media, like RuPaul’s drag queens, Joanne the Scammer, Angel Haze, or 070 Shake; or the popularity of celebs such as the Smith siblings, Jaden and Willow, who forego gender with an ambiguity that is simultaneously edgy and graceful—makes clear that, in 2016, there’s a certain appeal to the sort of boundary-pushing, innovative fashion that treads (or even blurs) the line between masculinity and femininity. Yet perhaps this coolness is not wholly new. In the 1900’s, Coco Chanel revolutionized fashion by introducing menswear to French women during the “Belle Époque,” an era of extravagance where women submitted to the social expectation of laboriously preparing elaborate hats and hair. In an age when merely getting dressed was a day-long activity, Coco Chanel’s simple designs did not come from some sort of innate desire to be revolutionary – rather,
they Inst of t feet be w ess
ential
Garfield Larmond, Complex, August 2016
ey were born from simple necessity. tead of the monstrous headwear typical the era (hats commonly exceeded five t across), Chanel’s straw boater could worn without any excessive preparation, sentially improving a women’s quality of life.
Sales followed, and before long, Chanel was in business. In 1910, after the success of the straw boater, Chanel opened the store “Chanel Modes” in Paris. Famously, the store would later began selling clothes, which were also revolutionary for their fashion and functionality. With the introduction of “cotton jersey” material to women’s fashion, the designer made her first foray into sportswear, providing women with garments that granted true freedom of mobility. Compared to typical “Belle Époque” ensembles, Chanel’s movement-friendly sportswear gave women the freedom to get into a car or even ride a bike, activities previously most accessible to men. Chanel’s design career would be defined by similarly feminine takes on menswear. The turtlenecks, blazers, trousers and belts she designed all began as menswear staples; the tweeds, wools, and aforementioned jersey material she used to construct them began life the same. However, thanks to Chanel’s design talent, the public began to accept her clothing as not just boundary-pushing, but fashionable. Gone were the five-foot hats: thanks to the revolutionary work of one designer, fashion was simplified, and therefore redefined. There’s a parallel between this innovation of Coco Chanel and our innovation today. When Jaden Smith posed in the aforementioned Louis Vuitton skirt for the brand’s Spring-Summer 2016 campaign, The New York Times, unsure of whether the statement was social or sartorial, claimed the campaign nonetheless made the brand appear “forward-thinking and millennial sensitive.” To a generation that values inclusivity
Bruce Weber, New York Times, January 2016 and expression, Louis Vuitton’s understanding of identity fluidity resonates strongly: “[Jaden Smith] represents a generation that has assimilated the codes of true freedom,” said Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of Louis Vuitton, commenting on the campaign. “[Jaden’s freedom is] free of manifestations [of] gender.” Like Chanel before him, Ghesquière embraces this gender fluidity to magnificent effect. Yet he is not alone. Contemporary figures like RuPaul’s drag queens and Joanne the Scammer teach us that gender is more of a performance than anything. From the nuanced and neutral clothing of today, we learn that rather than attempts to
adhere to gender roles, what appeals to us is this valiant struggle to free ourselves from these limits of the traditional male-female binary. When done well, the end results are fashionable, revolutionary, and above all, breathtaking. Some of the greatest examples of gender-blending are seen in the work of avant-garde brands like Maison Margiela, HBA, Virgil Abloh’s Off-White, and even Kanye West’s Yeezy. Even fast fashion retailer ZARA has begun to mark select items as “ungendered,” marketing them equally to both men and women. Most of all, no one is to forget Young Thug’s now-iconic cover for the album “JEFFERY.” The cover features the artist
(a m from stic dev S of t the any is c arg tha to t bot A Wit of C inte Gar of f are to s fina “coo the Coc cha S pas inte the wor sing If the own hon
man) posed in a billowing periwinkle dress m the boutique VFILES. Why continue to ck to gender when what is created from its viations has been so incredible? Society often complains about the sensitivity the millennial. The common complaint: with e youth of today, it is “impossible” to say ything without offending anyone—everything controversial. However, many would avidly gue that it is not that they are sensitive, but at they are attuned, having been connected the wider world of people and difference th physically and virtually. And what’s wrong with sensitivity, anyway? thout the groundbreaking “sensitivity” Coco Chanel, where would we be? In an erview with i-D magazine, Comme des rçon’s Rei Kawakubo said that the purpose fashion “is to allow a person to be who they e,” and that the fashion field “always relates social movement, politics and the current ancial situation.” Perhaps this alone is what’s ol” about fashion—it is endlessly seeks e new. Sometimes, it’s even fashion (see: co Chanel) that forces a reluctant society to ange. Style contains multitudes. It is mix of our st and our present, our cultures and our erests, our life experiences, the economy, e environment, politics, and the state of the rld. Within this chaos, we, the dresser, are a gle storyteller. f we’re talking about style essentials, then, ere’s perhaps but one: the bravery to tell our n story through clothing. Better yet, to tell it nestly.
written by Kai Mason layout by Kaitlyn Beukema
un-excess-orize DIRECTORS Hannah Sybil Macdonald, Jenny Ruan STYLISTS Annie Nie
PHOTOGRAP VIDEOGRAPH
PHER Derrick Lui, Sophie Kofoid, Kevin Zheng HER Aubrey O’Neal
MODELS Alyssa Steinhoff, Wency Zhao MAKE-UP ARTISTS Soumi Santra, Lauren Elizabeth Westphal
The 5 Sneakers That Shaped 2016 T
h a n k s to deca d es of fa sh i on c asualizat ion, at hlet ic shoes now occupy a p ro p e r sp o t i n t he p a n theo n o f foot wear. What st ar t ed decades ago with c an vas sp o r t s sh oes l i ke th e ori g i nal Conver se Chuck Taylor has blossome d in to an in d u s t r y p ro j ected to b e wo r th more t han $84 billion by 20 18. From hum b le ro o ts , s n e a ke r s h ave evo l ved : desi gn er collabs, f ashion week shows, and eve n s e lf lacin g t r a i n e r s a re al l a p a r t o f today ’s sneaker ecosyst em. H ere are our p ic ks f o r th e 5 p a i r s t h a t d efi n ed o n e o f the most excit ing years in t he histor y of s n e ake rs .
Nike x ACRONYM Air Presto “Neon” Th e u n d e rd o g . Fro m street wear b lo g s to B a r ron’s ma g a z i n e, thi s year ’s h e ad l i n e s s eemed to spel l do o m f or th e S wo o sh . As th e press fi x a t ed on a rev i ved a d i das (NM D, Yeez y ) and a resurg e n t U n der Armo u r ( UAS , Cur r y) , N ike a p p ea red to b e trea d i ng water. Even a n ew L eb ro n sho e a nd a fresh ro und of R i c c a rd o T i s c i collabs couldn’t catapult Am e r i c a’s l a rg e s t a t h l e t i c a p p a re l b r a n d b ac k i n to t h e l i mel i gh t. T hen al on g came AC R O NY M . In late spring, images leaked of a rumored N ike x AC R ONY M Ai r Presto co l l a b. The f i r s t sh o e s h own to bl og s ha d all t he clas s i c AC R O NY M tra p p i ng s (z ippers, s n ap c l o su re s , i nn ovati ve ma te r ials) , an d g e n er a t ed exci tement d u e to it s ava n t - g a rd e s i l h o u e t t e a l o n e . R u m o r s s w ir l ed a b o u t po ssi bl e o ther ACR ONYMtyp ic a l c o l o r way s – bl a ck ? B l ack on b lack ? – a n d exci tement su rro unding
t he shoe slowly grew. Then, aro u n d m id summer, anot her round of photo s le ake d , showing of f all 3 color ways of th e n o w conf ir med sneaker.
Official Nike.c o m ima g e, Released S e p 1 5 , 2 01 6
In t h e m i d d l e o f t w o va r i a t i o n s o f o l i ve o n -bl a c k P re s tos sa t the wi l d est shoe o f 20 1 6 : a n eon pi nk , hi gh l i g h ter yellow b io m o r p h i c ni n j a sl i p p er. S uddenly,
Nike was back in t he headlin e s . Th e “Neon” Nike x ACRONYM Air Pre s to m ay just be t he comeback stor y th is ye ar needed.
Ronnie Fieg x A Bathing Ape Fiegsta “Sand” Th e c o n n o i s seur ’s cho i ce. While t he rest o f t h e w o rl d ch a sed Yeez y Boost s an d N i ke M AG ’s, two of th e sho e game’s f o u n d i n g i n f l u en ces co l l a b o ra ted on t he year ’s most wearable luxur y sneaker. To au g m en t t h e l a un ch of KIT H NYC, his New Yo r k - b a s e d store-turned-brand’s first f as h i o n c o l l ec ti on , th e l eg en d a r y Ronnie Fie g p a r t n e re d wi th J a p a n ese street wear h al lm a r k A B a t hi ng Ape on th i s ha n dmade s u e d e ve r s i o n of th e l a tter ’s cel ebrat ed “B apest a” s h o e. Du b b e d t h e “ Fi eg sta” (fo r o bvious
reasons) , t he shoe launched in e arly Sept ember to crit ical acclaim, an d m o re impor t ant ly, ravenous demand. To th o s e in t he know, t he reason was obv io u s : F ie g is one of t he world’s f oremos t s n e ake r designers; BAPE, perhaps t h e m o s t inf luent ial st reet wear br and in h is to r y. The t wo collaborat ing was a Vo ltro n o f cult ur al gods not seen since M u rakam i x Vui t ton. Fans recogni zed t he si gn if ic a n c e of F ieg’s work wit h BAPE , causing th e s h o e to s e l l o u t i n s t a n t l y eve n a t a s t a g g e r i n g $30 0 MSRP.
Offic ial Pre s s Image , ©NOW HERE Co., Lt d. All r ight s reser ved. 1 9 9 3 / 2 01 6 , Released S ep 1 5 , 2 01 6
Ye e z y 7 5 0 “ G rey / G u m” Th e wave . If 2 01 5 wa s the Year of Yeezy, 2016 was the star t of a dynasty. Wi t h i n a fe w s h o r t m o n t h s , t h e w o r l d g o t a st u d i o al bu m, two fa shi on shows, g lo b a l p o p - u p sto res – oh yea h , plus t he S ain t Pa b l o to u r. An y th i ng wi th a Kanye co -s i g n t u r n ed to go l d, or a t th e ver y le as t , mo re hea d l i n es th a n on e could co u n t . B y t h e t i me th i s th i rd col or w ay of K an ye’s a d i d a s- prod u ced si gn a ture shoe d ro p p e d i n J u n e, bo th streetwea r blogs an d t h e p ress a t l a rge seemedp o i s ed f or p e ak Ye e z y. In m a n y w ay s , t h e 7 5 0 G rey / G u m i s b o th h y p ed s neaker a nd cul tu ra l token. To those outside sneaker circles, the s h o e’s d i s t i n c ti ve co l or way, celebr it y as s o c i a t i o n , a n d my th i ca l sta tu re (sold o u t i n s ec o n d s , reso l d fo r 5 00% MSRP) id e n t i fy t h i s prototy p i ca l “ Yeezy ” as cu lt u r a l l y t r a n s cend en ta l . As Beck ham is to s o c c e r a n d D e a d m a u 5 i s to t e c h n o , s o
is t he Yeezy 750 to ever yt hing s n e ake rs . Love it or hat e it , t he Yeezy 750 G rey/ G u m had an impact .
Official A didas P ress Relea se I ma g e, Highsnobiet y, Released J u n 6 , 2 01 6
Nike Mag "2016"
Of fi c i a l Pre ss Re le as e Image , Nike . c om , R el ea s e d O c t 4 , 20 16
The granddaddy of t hem all. In 20 11, th e Po r t l a n d - b a s e d a t h l e t i c b r a n d re l e a s e d 150 0 pairs of Nike Mags (t h e ic o n ic “f ut ure shoe” f rom t he 1989 f ilm Bac k to t h e Fu t u re II) t h ro u g h e B ay a u c t i o n s , with all proceeds benefitting th e M i c h a e l J. Fox f oundat ion. Ot her t han a lac k o f space age “auto-lacing,” t he 20 11 M ag ’s were a 1:1 copy. Even at open au c tio n , bidders paid close to $380 0 pe r p air j u s t to s c o re M a g s . Fo u r ye ar s l a t e r, a s t h e w o r l d celebr at ed “Back to t he Fut ure D ay ” o n October 21, 20 15, N ike t weet e d o n e o f t he most cr ypt ic lines in sneake r h is to r y.
T h e Ma g wa s back . Th e ve r y n e x t d ay, actor Mi chael J. Fox (w h o p l aye d M a r t y M c F l y i n t h e B ac k to t h e Future mov i es) took to late -n i g h t s h o es to sho w off hi s 1 /1 autolacing ma g s . Mea n wh i l e, sn ea kerheads wo r l d w i d e p re pa red to ta ke o u t mo r t gages (a n d k i d n ey s ) f o r t h e c a s h to c o p . T h e n … t h ey wa i ted.
Af t e r a ye a r o f a n t i c i p a t i o n , t h e Swoosh broke t he silence: t h e f u tu re was now. On October 4, 2016 , t h e f i r s t genuine N ike Mags were re le as e d . Wh i l e o n l y 1 0 0 o f t h e a u to - l a c i n g p ai r s exist , t he paradigm-shif t ing te c h (an d eye-watering price tag) make this limit ed shoe t he most inf luent ial s n e ake r of 20 16.
Adidas NMD R1 “Glitch Camo” Th e R o o k i e o f th e Yea r. When adidas relea s e d t h e o ri g i n a l NM D R u n ner in D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 5 , the sn ea ker wo rl d took n o tic e. H ere w a s the a n swer to ever yone’s p r ayer s: b o o st tech a nd P ri mek nit on a li fe s t y l e s h o e th a t wa sn’ t j u st anot her Yeezy? Hallelujah. Couple that with a p r ic e t a g j u st un d er th e U l tra B oost ’s, an d a d i d a s O rgi n i a l s h a d the reci p e f or a f u t u re c l a ssi c . As l o n g a s t h ey w r a p p e d i t i n t h e r i g h t co lo r s, o f c o u r se. As t h e f i r s t N M D re l e a s e a f t e r t h e 2 0 1 5
launch, t he “Glit ch Camo” colo r w ay h ad big shoes to f ill. If t he shoe su c c e e d e d , it paved t he way f or f ut ure N MD s u c c e s s . However, if pairs sat – or w o r s e , h i t clear ance – it could mean t h e e n d f o r what promised to be the yea r ’s m o s t excit ing lifest yle silhouet t e. Lo n g s to r y shor t : sneakerheads camped , “ G litc h Camo” sold out nat ionwide, an d th e rest is histor y. T hanks to t he good looks of t he “Glit ch Camo” R1, t he ad id as N M D began it s met eoric r ise to f ame .
O f fi c ial Pre s s R e le as e Ima ge, Kick sonFire.com , Released Jan 19, 201 6
written by Alex Rakestraw designed by Sara Groenke
the basics
DIRECTORS Cat Marchenko Sabrina Zayek STYLISTS Jessica Vu Adam Van Osdol Cam Starwalt Carly Wilson PHOTOGRAPHER Benjamin Bear Olivia Gardella Brian Beckwith MODEL Isabel Schuler
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