THE
Kokoda Track
Where past and present become naturally entwined
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The Kokoda Track, laden with history, runs for some 100 miles through unspoiled virgin rainforest across the Owen Stanley Range in Papua New Guinea.
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hundred miles long. Crumple and fold this into a series of ridges, rising higher and high until seven thousand f is reached, then declini in ridges to three thous feet. Cover this thickly with jungle, short tree and tall trees, tangled with great, entwining savage vines. Through
The essentials—tape and antifungal cream Gathering in the foyer as we prepare to leave Port Moresby for Kokoda
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KOKODA 350M
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“Imagine an area of approximately one hundred miles long. Crumple and fold his into a series of idges, each rising higher and higher until seven thousand feet is reached, then declining in ridges to hree thousand feet. Cover this thickly 20
The original Isurava Village located near here, was defended by 50 Papuans and 1000 Australians, against 6000 Japanese.
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Massive tree roots give our tentative steps some respite from sinking deeper into the mud; an unrelenting climb makes our local Balmoral Awaba Street seem like a speed bump; hills open to a grassy knoll with spectacular views expanding across a valley and then leading to a moss forest of fluorescent green clinging to trunks that arms cannot stretch around, and pandanus trees, that reach forever upward toward the sun. Filtered light makes its way through the canopy, giving the path ahead an enchanted feel.
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“Time and rain and the jungle will obliterate this little pad but evermore will live the memory of weary men who have passed this way—ghosts of glorious men that have gone, gone far beyond the Kokoda Track.” Major-General Sir Kingsley Norris, Medical Officer, 7th Division
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Reflections at the Isurava Memorial 32
KOKODA 350M
WARTIME DENIKI
ISURAVA BATTLE SITE 1318M
1000M
“Imagine an area of approximately one hundred miles long. Crumple and fold this into a series of ridges, each rising higher and higher until seven thousand feet is reached, then declining in ridges to three thousand feet. Cover this thickly
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We were stepping into history: this is where Japanese soldiers in 1942 began their advance from Buna towards Port Moresby, and where Australian troops, comprising of initially young, inexperienced militia were sent to hold off this advance.
young, inexperienced militia
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One hundred pairs of feet trudge along the famous track from Kokoda to Ower’s Corner—31 stepping with some trepidation, the other 70 being our two guides and the Papua New Guinean carriers—modern-day fuzzy wuzzies whose ancestors were instrumental in helping our soldiers almost 65 years ago. (They were endearingly called the fuzzy wuzzy angels.) We started as individuals and finished as firm friends, many, perhaps, never to meet again but leaving an indelible print in each other’s hearts.
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Abauri Village campsite
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Lisa and I, after an early morning running chat, realised that we both had the same desire: to walk the Kokoda Track. Research started and before long the deposit was paid and training commenced. How do you prepare for such a walk? Our plan was an already existing base of reasonable fitness plus bush walks with packs full of bricks and marie claire magazines, hill-climbs, tackling endless stairways, our local steep Awaba Street, running and the gym. A year after the initial chat, lists compiled and ticked, we were away—me with much trepidation and Lisa with much excitement.
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The first night in Port Moresby, 33 strangers met: 31 trekkers and two guides; Jason our second in charge, who wanted more mud, and John Nalder, our lead guide. John is a man with an unquenchable enthusiasm for the track, the people, the history and the stories, which over the next 10 days we were to take into our hearts. Many tears were shed for the soldiers who, as one gravestone at Bomana Cemetery was inscribed, “he died so that we may live in peace – Private, R. W. McLaughlin, aged 20”.
“he died so that we may live in peace” 47
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Walking the track, you cannot be but humbled by the feats of the Australian soldiers, greatly outnumbered by the Japanese but who still managed to push back the enemy from reaching Port Moresby—the stepping stone to Australian shores. We experience the unrelenting terrain, where “flat” is not in the dictionary, paths which in places are a few feet in width with sheer drops down one side, mud that feet sink deeper into as weariness sets in. We, however, had the luxury of tents, food and toilets, even though these were somewhat primitive.
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KOKODA 350M
WARTIME DENIKI
ISURAVA BATTLE SITE 1318M
1000M
EORA CREEK VILLAGE 1425M
TEMPLETON’S CROSSING 1700M 1970M
Mako’s shoes on the left—clean and my shoes on the right
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Our carriers sing Happy Birthday at Templeton’s Crossing campsite 72
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Our evening ritual was the first excited sighting of those wonderful yellow tents we called “home�, unpacking the sleeping bag, foam mattress, and blow-up pillow, lowering aching limbs into fresh, cold, creek water, washing socks, applying antifungal creams and powder, taping our feet, ankles and knees, refilling camel baks, and then sitting on logs around a camp fire in anticipation of dinner.
the yellow tents were home
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The soldiers had no such comforts. Sharing tins of bully beef, sleeping in trenches with rain that did not stop throughout the campaign, foot rot, dysentery and malaria all to contend with in addition to wounds that left many without limbs. Sleep for us was intermittent, each turn encountering a hip bone connecting with hard ground, but we knew that we were safe. (A compensation for not being able to sleep was to look outside and see above a blanket of stars.)
soldiers had no such comforts
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Lake Myola campsite 89
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2000M
KOKODA 350M
WARTIME DENIKI
ISURAVA BATTLE SITE 1318M
1000M
EORA CREEK VILLAGE 1425M
TEMPLETON’S CROSSING 1700M 1970M
THE KOKODA GAP
MYOLA 2
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Food drop at Naduri Village
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Endearingly called the fuzzy wuzzy angels —instrumental in helping our soldiers Mr Ovuru Ididki, a former fuzzy wuzzy angel
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View from Naduri Village campsite 106
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Our wake-up call was the didgeridoo (far removed from the chilling sound of mortar), then we start to pack, eat and be ready for the new day’s briefing, ready to leave by 7 am.
The evening drying ritual 109
2000M
KOKODA 350M
WARTIME DENIKI
ISURAVA BATTLE SITE 1318M
1000M
EORA CREEK VILLAGE 1425M
TEMPLETON’S CROSSING 1700M 1970M
THE KOKODA GAP
MYOLA 2
EFOGI 1 VILLAGE 1220M EFOGI 2 VILLAGE 1350M
BRIGADE HILL 1415M
MENARI 850M
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“Imagine an area of approximately one hundred miles long. Crumple and fold this into a series of ridges, each rising higher and higher until seven thousand feet is reached, then declining in ridges to three thousand feet. Cover this thickly with 117
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Early morning at Menari Village campsite 123
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ppression of this densit ack, two or three feet w he spurs, round gorges a owing, happy mount ack clambers up the m ig steps, little steps, stee om the tree roots.
Every few miles, bring th atch of sunlit kinai gras ative garden, and every sev lapidated grass huts-as s t in a foul, offensive clea 140
ty, cut a little native wide, up the ridges, ove and down across swiftly tains streams. Where th mountain sides, cut step ep steps-or clear the soi
he track through a small ss, or an old deserted ven or ten miles, build a staging shelters-generally aring. Every now and 141
The carriers have an infectious laughter and humour … don’t they ever tire? I can’t say that I have seen such good spirits on my morning ride on the 207 bus into work. These guys love it, these 70 Papua New Guineans that we could not have done without, their reassuring touch on the elbow, a hand to guide us across the log bridges that span the river crossings or to help us up a particularly high step with the foothold a slippery tree root. The term step is used very loosely as our feet so often found. Their voices too—a blend of harmonies that bring tears. Five birthdays along the way meant that we were privileged to hear five renditions, and, yes, Happy Birthday can sound fantastic but only when sung by our carriers. Our response after an evening recital from a local village was to bellow Waltzing Matilda, and then with actions, The Hokey Pokey. The local people allow us into their villages, their homes, all of us greeted with the universal welcome of a smile. This warmth and friendship would not go astray when you wander down our self-absorbed streets.
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2000M
1350M
KOKODA 350M
WARTIME DENIKI
ISURAVA BATTLE SITE 1318M
1000M
EORA CREEK VILLAGE 1425M
TEMPLETON’S CROSSING 1700M 1970M
THE KOKODA GAP
MYOLA 2
EFOGI 1 VILLAGE 1220M EFOGI 2 VILLAGE 1350M
BRIGADE HILL 1415M
MENARI 850M
WARTIME NAURO 850M
9 FALSE PEAKS
IROBAWA RIDGE 850M
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magine an area of appro es long. Crumple and f idges, each rising higher n thousand feet is reach es to three thousand feet h jungle, short trees and h great, entwining, sav ression of this density, k, two or three feet wid purs, round gorges and wing, happy mountain k clambers up the mou 158
oximately one hundred fold this into a series r and higher until hed, then declining in t. Cover this thickly d tall trees, tangled vage vines. Through an , cut a little native de, up the ridges, over d down across swiftlyns streams. Where the untain sides, cut steps159
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Bomana War Cemetery
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Now sleep the brave. He fought and died in freedom’s cause.
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Our second day led us to Isurava, the site of a most beautiful monument, dedicated to those Australians and Papua New Guineans who fought along the Kokoda Track. Four pillars, each inscribed with the words Courage, Endurance, Mateship and Sacrifice; four words that each day became further etched in our thoughts and hearts, not only as we sought to climb the next ridge stumbling and sliding down its descent, or as we gave reassurance to those in front or behind, but also their significance as stories from the 1942 campaign were recounted. “When you go home, tell them of us. Tell them for their today we gave our tomorrow�.
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2000M
1350M
KOKODA 350M
WARTIME DENIKI
ISURAVA BATTLE SITE 1318M
1000M
EORA CREEK VILLAGE 1425M
TEMPLETON’S CROSSING 1700M 1970M
THE KOKODA GAP
MYOLA 2
EFOGI 1 VILLAGE 1220M EFOGI 2 VILLAGE 1350M
BRIGADE HILL 1415M
MENARI 850M
WARTIME NAURO 850M
9 FALSE PEAKS
IROBAWA RIDGE 850M
IMITA RIDGE 850M
OWER’S CORNER 735M
“Imagine an area of approximately one hundred miles long. Crumple and fold this into a series of ridges, each rising higher and higher until seven thousand feet is reached, then declining in ridges to three thousand feet. Cover this thickly with jungle, short trees and tall trees, tangled with great, entwining, savage vines. Through an oppression of this density, cut a little native track, two or three feet wide, up the ridges, over the spurs, round gorges and down across swiftly-flowing, happy mountains streams. 172
Where the track clambers up the mountain sides, cut steps-big steps, little steps, steep steps-or clear the soil from the tree roots. “Every few miles, bring the track through a small patch of sunlit kinai grass, or an old deserted native garden, and every seven or ten miles, build a dilapidated grass huts-as staging sheltersgenerally set in a foul, offensive clearing. Every now and then, leave beside the track dumps of putrifying food, occasional dead bodies and human foulings. 173
In the morning, flicker the sunlight through the tall trees, flutter green and blue and purple and white butterflies lazily though the air, and hid birds of deep-throated song, or harsh cockatoos, in the foliage. “About midday, and through the might, pour water over the forest, so that the steps become broken, and a continual yellow stream flows downwards, and the few level areas become pools and puddles of putid blak mud. 174
In the high reidges above Myloa, drip this water day and night over the track through a foetid forest grotesque with moss and glowing phosphorescent fungi. Such is the track which a prominent politician publicly described as ‘being almost impassable for motoe vehicles’, and such is the route for ten days to be covered from Ilola to Deniki.” Major-General Sir Kingsley Norris
He was the first senior officer to cross the Owen Stanley Range on foot. He served for 3 months on the Kokoda Track, supervising medical evacuations and resupply, and assisting surgeons in forward areas.
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Why do the come? John Nalder Why do they come from near and far to take the message back? Why do they come with open hearts to walk the bloody track? Why do they come, some young, some old, from backgrounds so diverse and gather on mass this motley crew to slog and sweat and curse? Why do they come when safe at home a book may just suffice, chronicle courage, endurance, mateship and true sacrifice? Why do they come to challenge themselves the battle of body and mind, an inward search for limits who knows what truths you may find? Why do they come to make their peace, to some a pilgrimage, to say thanks on sacred ground like here at Imita Ridge? Why do they come in peaceful times to walk this forest land, to meet these modern angels, just one chance to shake their hand? Why do they come my trek leader asks, what does it mean to you, if you haven’t experienced it for yourself you never believe it was true? Why do they come from near and far to take the message back? Why do they come with open hearts to walk the bloody track?
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Brisbane to Port Moresby The alarm clock rings at 5:15 for a 5:45 leave to the airport. We are on our way about 30 minutes, and about 10 minutes to go and Lisa remembers that her medicine is in the fridge. Kindly, Mick offers to continue to the airport to drop us off to check in at least the three hours prior, and he headed back home for the medicine. We were first in the queue, did our stuff and then breakfast. I mentioned to Lisa that with the take-on luggage, we are only allowed containers that hold maximum 100ml. Lisa had containers that held more. We had to go and buy some 100ml bottles and put all the lotions and potions, that would fit into those. Got to security and they wouldn’t allow some of the larger jars. Had to go back to check-in and re-check and now exceeded the luggage limit. Check-in girl not too happy but we are finally at the Gate. Now in Port Moresby and briefing is in 45 minutes. Lisa has fallen asleep and I might close my eyes for a bit too. The briefing was a bit daunting. Day 2 appears to be a crucial point and then Day 4. John Nalder our lead guide said that “honesty is the currency on the track”. He went through hygiene, the physical impact, and the emotional side, and we were supplied with our backpacks. Feet hygiene: Bepanthan in the morning. At night wash and dry feet, and apply a liberal sprinkle of anti-fungal powder. Wash socks and inner boots if muddy, with dettol soap.
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Day 1 (pages 1–13) Port Moresby to Kokoda to Hoi Village We leave the hotel for the start of the trek. Up at 5:15 for breakfast at 6:00, to be ready in the foyer at 7:00. Was a slow start, because, as a large group we required three shuttle trips to the airport and then three flights to Kokoda. Didn’t leave Kokoda airport until near 1:00pm. Short walk to Kokoda Memorial. And we were introduced to our carriers—Mako is helping me. Another couple of hours and we arrived at the campsite, a beautiful spot by a stream—crickets, frogs and fireflies. Settled in, had a wash in the stream and the dinner at 6:00. Sat around the camp fire for a short time and then played cards. Early to bed as we have to be up at 5:15 tomorrow. It did feel strange seeing the sign Kokoda—actually here. Day 2 (pages 24–33) Hoi campsite to the Isurava Memorial via Deniki
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Up at 5:15 (this seems to be the magical hour to be up) to pack, after a pretty restless night. The ground is hard. My thermorest is thin. Breakfast is at 6:00 and to leave at 7:00. It was pretty much, up ... up ... up. Morning tea was at Deniki, where John played the plastic didgeridoo., which we were told would now become our wake-up call. Then we climbed some more up to Isurava Village for lunch, and then more up, followed by a steep downhill to Isurava Memorial campsite. Very pretty and very moving. John told us stories about the soldiers that fought. One was Private Kingsbury who was awarded the VC for efforts in fighting off the Japanese. We then walked up a very steep climb to the Isurava battlesite where more stories were told. Had a shower—very cold, and then tried to dry some clothes. Dinner, chat around the fire and bed at 8:00. It was a good day.
Day 3 (pages 34–45) Isurava Village to Abauri Village Didgeridoo alarm at 5:15 after a toss and turn night. It was raining very heavily, so the thought of the next day was on my mind. Went to a Dawn Service at the Isurava Memorial. The memorial comprises four granite pillars, each inscribed with a single word—Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice. The service was particularly moving. Had breakfast about 6:30, and then headed off at 7:30. It was up ... up ... up and then more up. We stopped at Surgeons Rock, a significant pace. This is where doctors attempted to help the wounded. Stan Bissett died at this spot, his brother Butch by his side. A memorial from his family honours him here. Then it was up ... up ... and up again, followed by a slippery down to a most spectacular waterfall. Then it was up ... up ... up again. Arrived at the campsite around 1:30. Had lunch and was very hungry, very muddy and very hot. Lunch was pasta, potato and tuna. Yummy. It’s now about 4:30 and tired. Everyone is sitting around or sorting out their tent. Haven’t seen much of Lisa today. I think she is sorting out her stuff. It’s afternoon tea time. I still can’t believe that I am here. Day 4 (pages 46–71) Abauri Village to Templeton’s Crossing via Eora Creek Lots of log river crossings and up ... up ... up. The morning was a little unnerving—very narrow tracks with steep slopes. We visited a Japanese military site—ammunition, pits. Then down to Eora Creek. The afternoon was steep again, however the track was wide so even though we had to climb it wasn’t so bad. Very peaceful and very, very pretty.
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Camp is at Eora Creek, and we arrived at 3:15. By the time I washed clothes and boots and me it was time for dinner. Sat around the fire. Another good day. Day 5 (pages 72–89) Templeton’s Crossing to Lake Myola via Kokoda Gap Wake up call at 5:15—today a whistle and not the didgeridoo. Think that I am getting slower at packing. Couldn’t find things—anyway packed up by 6:00 ready for breakfast, which was weetbix, fruit and a cup of tea. Headed off at 7:00. Pretty much we climbed for 5 1/2 hours, from Templeton’s Crossing to lake Myola. We trudged through mud. It was steep climbs with huge steps “made out of ” tree trunks. Pretty pooped after yesterday. We took a side track for 1 1/2 hours. This track is a hunting track—virgin forest, beautiful and peaceful, but still tricky to manoeuvre. Lots of climbing over fallen logs. Lunch was at Lake Myola and was starving. Then we walked across the lake, which is really a swampy flat land, then through a rainforest area to the campsite. This part was easy so had time to look around. Off to the creek to put the legs in which I am hoping will soothe the tiredness, then a luxurious hot shower, bush style. Now sitting in the sun, washing has been done and dinner is at 6:00. I had a chat with Mako today. He is 28 and single and is the second youngest of nine children. Left school at Grade 5 (year 11) to help his family. When he isn’t trekking he is gardening and selling vegetables and flowers at the market. Lives at Sabiru Village at Ower’s Corner. Follows Manly, plays rugby, soccer and volleyball.
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Day 6 (pages 90–107) Lake Myola to Naduri Village We walked back across “the lake” but first to go through the rainforest and a very steep climb to the top of the ridge. From here we walked through beautiful rainforest and a moss forest taking about an hour.Very peaceful and beautiful pandanus trees, ferns and moss, almost enchanted. More climbs to Naduri lookout—spectacular views across the valley. Then downhill to Naduri Village. Unpacked, had lunch and then to meet Ovuru Idiki, a real fuzzy wuzzy. Back to a refreshing dip under the tap, washed clothes and now writing in the diary, awaiting a call to church. Tomorrow is a huge day, likely 13 hours. Day 7 (pages 100–119) Naduri Village to Menari via Kagi Took the long way today. Up at 5:15 with the didgeridoo call, breakfast at 6:00 and left at 7:00. Bloody hell—steep up and steep down, but we did it. Up through the grasses in the heat to meet the others who didn’t take the long way. We had a break of 15 minutes and then another steep climb to Brigade Hill, a very significant spot in the war. This was the scene of the biggest battle of the Kokoda campaign. A force of 6000 Japanese attacked a defending army of 1000 soldiers from the Australian 21st Brigade. John read a moving poem and there were tears. It was a long, long descent down to Menari Creek for a bit of refreshment and lots of bees. Another walk up hill to the campsite. Haven’t taken any photos of it yet. Arrived at 4:00 with very sore muscles. Washed me, my clothes and ready for dinner.
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Tonight and last night the villagers came and sang to us—beautiful singing and our response was Waltzing Matilda. What have I got out of this trip so far—a very proud Australian. Day 8 (pages 120-131) Menari Creek to Offi Creek via Nauro Village and the Maguli Range A tough day. My knees were very sore and there were lots and lots of ups and downs, and hot in the open as well. Not much else to say. Everyone is to bed early. There were tears when I made it to the campsite but as John said to me “pain is temporary”. Day 9 (pages 132-143) Offi Creek to Charlie’s Camp via Ioribaiwa and Imita Ridges Steep climbs both ways. Up at 5:15 for a 7:00 start. It was a warm night and the stars are beautiful. Was about an hour climb to Ioribaiwa Ridge. John set us goal—to climb without stopping. Sweat pouring. A long descent down with very thick mud. Lunch and then another long walk to camp. Wash and dinner and it must have been late as dinner seemed to come around quickly. The village visited and they sang. I am very tired.
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Day 10 (pages 144-168) Charlie’s Camp to Ower’s Corner Wake up call at 5:15, with breakfast at 6:00 and left at 7:00. First we had to cross the Goldie River and then up another steep hill which took around two hours. There was some flat but not a lot. John has a tradition to hand over our large backpack that the carriers have been carrying (we had our day pack). I was given the honour, with another member of the group, John to lead us through to the end, where our carriers formed an honour guard, and singing Coming home. We then formed the guard for the carriers to walk through. Extremely moving. We sorted our packs and then on a bus to the war cemetery—Bomana War Cemetery. This was quite a long drive. Again so moving to see all the graves. From there it was to the hotel and then we had an hour to get cleaned up before heading off to Parliament House. Back to the hotel for a briefing where we were handed certificates and watched a Compass Video on the Track. Dinner was at 7:30 and I was starving. Everyone was happy but sad to be saying goodbye. Next morning breakfast was at 7:30 and to the airport for 10:00. Again hard to say goodbye. We are now in Noosa, have been to the markets, the beach and had lots of food. Spam is no longer part of the cuisine.
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“ When you go home, tell them of us. Tell them for their today we gave our tomorrow.� Courage | Endurance | Mateship | Sacrifice