JEAN-GABRIEL FERNANDEZ
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verything retro is new again, including the realm of cocktails. Sweet ice cream-based drinks that were popular, and sometimes created, in the 1960s and ’70s are making a comeback in Milwaukee. A number of bars and restaurants serve them, not just the usual supper clubs. Here are 10 spots to grab a creamy liquid dessert.
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2501 S. Delaware Ave. 414-481-8030 Though rumors of its closure or sale have been circulating for years, At Random is still chugging along in Bay View, though the hours are still seemingly…at random. It’s still dark and romantic, with a good dose of Frank Sinatra playing in the background. Flip through the large-font cocktail menu, or just ask the bartender for whatever ice cream drink is their favorite lately. No matter what you get, it’ll be delicious and topped with a cookie around the straw.
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216 S. Second St. 414-223-0903 blacksheepmke.com This Black Sheep doesn’t have any wool, but it’s got a sophisticated spiked shake (and a whole lot of wine, but you’re not here for the wine today). They keep it simple, using Purple Door salted caramel ice cream blended with Jameson whisky. It’s a subtle, rich combination made with premium ingredients that doesn’t need anything else to make it shine. Any minimalist drinker would love this one.
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1579 S. Ninth St. 414-383-2620 bryantscocktaillounge.com No list of ice cream cocktails could be complete without Bryant’s, possibly the oldest cocktail lounge in Milwaukee. It has a storied spot in cocktail history—including ice cream concoctions—some of which were invented here. The Pink Squirrel is made with vanilla ice cream, crème de cacao and crème de noyaux, a red almond-flavored liqueur made with apricot pits. The Blue Tail 2 | SEPTEMBER 14, 2017
Fly, also invented here, gets its bright color and light orange flavor from blue curacao, while the Banshee gets its flavor from banana liqueur.
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2416 W. State St. 414-342-3553 fiveoclocksteakhouse.com Five O’Clock Steakhouse has everything you’d ever want in a supper club: relish trays, vinyl tablecloths with paper placemats and year-round twinkling Christmas lights. It’s the perfect atmosphere to sit at the bar and sip an ice cream cocktail. The usual classics are represented on the menu, including Grasshoppers and Brandy Alexanders, along with all three of the ice cream drinks invented at Bryant’s (Banshee, Blue Tail Fly and Pink Squirrel). It’s an extra bit of local history in a supper club that’s been around since the 1940s.
=(03#>02%2'’4 5601 Broad St. 414-858-1900 joeygerards.com
There’s no better spot to enjoy an ice cream cocktail than at a retro-inspired supper club. Joey Gerard’s in Greendale serves up five different versions at the bar. There’s the standard Grasshopper and Pink Squirrel, but it’s the Pal Joey that you should order. It’s a mix of Kahlua, Bailey’s, amaretto, crème de cacao, ice cream and the not-so-secret ingredient, mascarpone cheese. It’s thick and super rich thanks to the cheese. If you don’t think you’ll have room for it after a prime rib dinner, order it first.
?0226)0&"#.(,6%+ 240 E. Pittsburgh Ave. 414-645-0240 merrimentsocial.com
Ever since Merriment Social has increased its menu focus on burgers, the selection of shakes has grown as well. These beauties are over-the-top, massive creations of candy, sauce, cookies and anything else you can think of. Try the Caught in the Rain, which includes pineapple rum, coconut milk and vanilla ice cream with coconut crumble and pineapple around the rim. The other four shakes on offer are non-alcoholic,
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but a shot can be added for an additional fee. They are: Hot Fudge, Salted Caramel, Calamansi Creamsicle and Chocolate Peanut Butter.
sions. Furthermore, there are occasionally spiked shake specials made with infused liquors and local ice cream, so keep an eye out for those.
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10950 W. Good Hope Road; 414-797-2970 W229 N1400 Westwood Drive, Pewaukee; 262-955-9192 pointburgerbar.com Nothing goes better with a burger and fries than a milkshake, and Point Burger Bar knows that. They also know that adults like shakes, so there’s a menu of a dozen different booze-filled variations. The Frosted Gingerbread is great for fall with vanilla, gingerbread and hazelnut flavors. A chai tea adult shake includes brewed chai, vanilla, Malibu coconut rum and vodka whipped cream. Dreamsicle, salted caramel, peppermint and raspberry cheesecake are just some of the other flavor combos.
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170 S. First St. 414-273-7800 stackedbar.com Stack’d is another burger bar that does alcoholic shakes right. You can order any of their standard shakes “spiked” with various liquors. Two of your options are made with Sprecher sodas: a vanilla shake with cream soda and spiked with vanilla vodka and a Dreamsicle made with orange soda and spiked with citrus rum. There are also chocolate, strawberry and Grasshopper ver-
1962 N. Prospect Ave. 414-509-6074 supper.restaurant Supper has branded itself as a modern supper club, and you can get great versions of classics like Grasshoppers and Brandy Alexanders. But there’s also a section on the cocktail menu called “Modern Ice Cream Drinks,” and that’s where the unique drinks are. The Kentucky Mudpuppy is a not-toosweet blend of caramel pretzel ice cream, bourbon and Central Waters Mudpuppy Porter—all topped with whipped cream and a chocolate-covered pretzel rod for good measure.
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1030 E. Juneau Ave. 414-272-0011 theknickrestaurant.com The Knick does something that is unusual around here, but is quite common in a lot of old-school supper clubs around the state: Their ice cream drinks are served in a martini glass and are thick enough that there’s a six-inch tower of smooth drink piled above the rim of the glass. It’s a sight to behold, but you better move those spoons quick. Grab a classic or order something like the Godiva at the Knick, made with Godiva chocolate liqueur and Chambord for a raspberry boost. SHEPHERD EXPRESS
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JEAN-GABRIEL FERNANDEZ
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veryone knows and loves the standard Wisconsin-style old fashioned, made with muddled fruit, brandy and bitters. You probably have a preference as to ordering it “sweet” or “sour,” and maybe even “press” once in a while. Many bars around Milwaukee like to shake up the standard old fashioned and put their own spins on it. Here are 10 unique old fashioneds that deviate from the standard.
!""#$%%&% '(")*$++ 2151 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. 414-763-4935 boonemilwaukee.com
Though you will undoubtedly be tempted by the seasonal cocktail board, an old fashioned is the thing to order at cozy Boone & Crockett in Bay View. There are two types, one with Korbel brandy, and one with Old Forester bourbon, but both are batched and aged in wood barrels hanging above the bar for a smooth, mellow flavor. When you order one, the liquor comes cascading down, and then it’s topped with soda, sour mix or, for the purists, served on the rocks.
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Three locations campbarmke.com/specials As you might expect at a bar themed around the up north cabin life, there’s an entire old fashioned menu at Camp Bar. There’s a speakeasy Prohibition version for purists, but it’s hard to resist the more unique options. The Southern Belle mixes it up with Southern Comfort and peach bitters for sweet drink lovers, a maple version with Cabin Fever maple whisky to make you feel like you’re in Canada, and one made with ginger brandy for a little more bite. All taste wonderful under a canoe of taxidermy raccoons.
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360 E. Erie St. 414-488-8036 dandanmke.com There is an old fashioned at DanDan that you’ve definitely never had before: bubble tea. The Asian drink, usually made with fruit, gets its “bubbles” from large, chewy tapioca pearls. At modern Chinese American DanDan, bubble tea and old fashioneds 6 | SEPTEMBER 14, 2017
are combined into a playful mix, complete with plastic domed cup and giant straw for sucking up the tapioca pearls. There’s nothing childish about the ingredients though, including Sacred Bond brandy, Luxardo and homemade sour mix.
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722 N. Milwaukee St. 414-220-9411 distilmilwaukee.com Distil touts itself as “Milwaukee’s House of Bourbon,” so it’s no surprise that their house old fashioned is a simple affair. There is no muddled fruit or soda, which is certainly unusual for an old fashioned in Wisconsin, even though that’s the classic preparation. The spirit rotates, but you can assume it’ll be made with great bourbon, along with turbinado sugar and two types of bitters for complexity. Those who prefer to let the spirit shine in their old fashioned should seek this one out.
/(0#*% 301)"#10#425%%674% 135 E. National Ave. 414-930-0929 drinkwi.pub
Do not be confused when you walk into the Drink Wisconsinbly Pub: You have not been magically transported to your favorite tavern up north; it just looks like you have. Like all good Wisconsin taverns worth their salt, this spot serves up a couple different versions of old fashioneds. The “Old School” version includes Korbel and muddled fruit, but look to the Bubbler for something unique. Instead of water, it squirts SoulBoxer, a commercial ready-to-drink old fashioned. And like many taverns up north, both versions are topped with a squeaky cheese curd garnish.
8($,+%%9,*$1%%/01+022$(5 616 W. Virginia St. 414-431-8683 greatlakesdistillery.com
While you can order an old fashioned any time at the tasting bar inside Great Lakes Distillery, the best time for an old fashioned here is fall. That’s when the new batch of the annual Pumpkin Seasonal Spirit is released, and it makes for a wonderful, unique cocktail. The spirit is distilled
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from Lakefront Brewery’s Pumpkin Lager, keeping sweetness in check and with a bit of clove and nutmeg. Besides a drink mixed at the bar, be on the lookout for their barrelaged pumpkin old fashioneds as well.
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Bay View’s sausage emporium has a number of cocktails on draft for consistency and quick service, including two different old fashioneds. The signature old fashioned utilizes brandy and Luxardo maraschino liqueur for an extra cherry kick. Bourbon lovers have an option too, made with Wild Turkey 101, homemade sour mix and three types of bitters. Both cocktails are garnished with fresh citrus zest, giving them a zingy finish and aroma.
524 S. Second St. 414-224-5300 movidamke.com Movida puts a Spanish spin on their Vasco old fashioned. The cocktail menu states the drink’s origins as “Basque + Wisconsin + Grandparents” which seems like a pretty good mix. Lustau Reserva Spanish brandy is the base of this drink, along with Bittercube and Angostura bitters and seltzer. Instead of the usual orange and cherry, however, they utilize lemon, strawberry and chili pepper. It’s an unusual combination that makes for a super refreshing cocktail.
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703 S. Second St. 414-412-6131 Though you’ve probably heard that Tin Widow is MKE’s best gin bar, this dimly lit haven is hiding one of the city’s best old fashioneds in plain view. Instead of the usual brandy, they opt for Old Forester bourbon. They muddle orange and use Angostura bitters and sour soda, which is all pretty standard around here. What’s different is what they call “love juice,” a reduction of red wine and cola, that adds deep complexity. It’s topped with a Luxardo-soaked cocktail cherry.
2659 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. 414-539-3593 vanguardbar.com
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600 S. Sixth St. 414-488-9146 hotelmadridmke.com/bar The bar inside Hotel Madrid is a surprisingly playful spot. Many cocktails are served in kitschy containers, or with little hula dancers, or under a glass dome filled with aromatic smoke. The old fashioned changes seasonally, and has included Peruvian pisco, spiced apple cider and smoked apples in the past. They currently serve an old fashioned made with single barrel and blackstrap rum, Bittercube bitters and a molasses beer syrup. The latter is served in the beer bottle the syrup is made with, along with a toasted marshmallow to complement the molasses in the drink.
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Muddle the cherry, syrup, and bitters. Add whiskey and ice. Stir and strain into rocks glass over ice. Add a splash of seltzer and garnish with orange peel.
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