Vineyards

Words Claire Bowman Photography Katharine Davies

Hannah Wilkins was walking home from work one evening when she learnt that her Sherborne wine shop, Vineyards, had just been named one of Mary Portas’ top five favourite independents in the UK. ‘It was one of those moments when your phone just goes crazy,’ says Hannah, who started the business in 2005, aged 24, having previously held the position of youngest-ever manager of Wine Rack. ‘Mary was doing TV’s Queen of the High Street at the time and was very pro-independents. On the Monday she recommended her favourite family-owned butcher up North and on the Tuesday she recommended us. She had been staying with friends locally and had popped into Vineyards on a number of occasions, so we had obviously been doing something right.’ >

Ten years on and Hannah’s very personal approach to selling wine is as compelling as ever. Voted Best Wine Shop in the South West and Harpers Wine No 5 in the UK 2021, and finalists in the prestigious 2022 Drinks Retailing awards, making it to the Top 3 with the winner being announced in Feb 2023, Vineyards is the place to go not just for those who know their wine but for those who need a little help to find it. Whether it’s a white to accompany the Christmas turkey (‘I’ll be drinking a German Von Buhl Riesling,’ says Hannah) or a red to match a curry (‘A Georgian red or a nice Côtes du Rhône, nothing too robust like a Sangiovese’), Vineyards is all about helping the customer.

Right on cue, a customer comes into the shop in search of something to drink with their Sunday roast that weekend. ‘Here,’ says Hannah, quick as a flash, as she reaches for a bottle on the shelf, ‘this Quercus Pinot Bianco from Slovenia will work brilliantly.’ It is that human touch that has secured Vineyards the loyal following it has today.

‘There is an expectation that when you shop ‘independent’, you are getting more knowledge, more expertise and that personal service. That’s exactly what we want to maintain,’ says Hannah’s wife and business partner, Sadie, who was an English teacher in Essex before moving to Dorset. ‘There’s always been something a little bit magical about what goes on within these four walls, and that’s not just in terms of wine but what it means to be a really good indie,’ she continues. ‘Hannah has 24 years’ experience doing really great stuff in Sherborne. If there’s something going on, if there’s a cause that needs getting behind, you can guarantee that Hannah will be involved, whether it’s supporting the Ukraine effort or helping to raise funds for Yeovil Hospital’s cardiology department.’

The desire to offer their customers that extra sprinkle of Vineyards magic is what inspired Hannah and Sadie to relocate from Digby Road to Old Yarn Mills last October. Looking to add 250 wines to their portfolio, create a wine lounge and take advantage of more storage space, they were quick to see the potential in a vehicle repair shop that had seen better days.

‘It was in a shocking state when we took it over but within five weeks we’d completely transformed it,’ says Hannah, scrolling through some chaotic ‘before’ photographs on her phone. ‘We created a wine lounge mezzanine, resurfaced the floor, installed wall-to-wall shelving, and put in a counter made from repurposed wooden wine crates. We were happy in Digby Road for the 16 years we were there, but we simply outgrew it and love the space we’ve created here.’

With neighbours that include Brewed Boy, Lolly Agency and Molecular Antiques, Old Yarn Mills has become a buzzy little quarter of Sherborne – a new home that seems to be suiting the Vineyards team (and bulldogs Hugo and Lola) down to the ground. ‘It has almost the feeling of a little Bermondsey Beer Mile area about it – we call it Yard Life,’ says Sadie with a smile. ‘There are a lot of makers here – everyone has a trade >

or a passion or something they specialise in.’

‘We’ve taken a bit of a leap of faith moving to Old Yarn Mills,’ Sadie admits. ‘And we’ve totally changed our business model, but out of the flames of a pandemic, we’ve come here, introduced foodie pop-ups and a snazzy tasting lounge, and brought back events with a vengeance. It’s been a really exciting time for Hannah, Nikki, Julia and me, and the best decision of our little wine shop’s life.’

If that weren’t enough to keep the team busy, they have also launched Vine of the Times, an annual blindtasting competition designed to unearth drinking gems from underrepresented makers across the world, kicking off with the category ‘Women in Wine’. Bringing together wine from female winemakers across the world and judged by an independent panel of female judges, the inaugural competition was an overwhelming success.

‘Proud as we are to be voted fifth best independent wine shop in the UK, we were the only women featured in this year’s top 10 indie wine merchants by Harpers Wine – and in 2022, it just doesn’t feel right,’ says Sadie. ‘We’re in a much better position than we used to be but it’s still not where it needs to be. That’s why you have to get on your soapbox, you have to keep pushing and championing the underrepresented in the trade – although, ultimately, it would be so much better if you could just say, ‘This is a great winemaker who really knows what they’re doing’, instead of having to talk about their gender, race, etc.’

Shaking things up, breaking down stigmas and changing perceptions – that is what Vineyards is all about, and few wine merchants work harder to ensure their customers are put at ease the moment they step through the door. ‘We’re aware there is something a bit intimidating about going into a wine shop,’ says Sadie. ‘People feel they have to know something about wine – it’s one of the few places where they feel they have to earn the right to browse. They’re immediately apologetic, saying, I don’t know much about wine… Well, maybe not but we do, and that’s why you’re here!’

It is also why many linger for a while, sampling wine at the counter, heading down to enjoy an early evening glass of wine on a Friday or Saturday in the tasting lounge. If there was any doubt that Sherborne would get behind their move to Old Yarn Mills, it must surely have been dispelled over the past year. ‘Yes, we’re very fortunate to have this two-way support system going on. Our customers are so supportive,’ says Hannah. ‘That’s why we also love working with the pubs, hotels and restaurants in town, like Mat Follas’ Bramble Restaurant and the Digby Tap, which sells our Prosecco and Carménère. Or the boys at Bean Shot café who supply the coffee beans for our own-label Espresso Spirit. It’s the local economy.’

‘There’s definitely something about Sherborne that is really special. I was born in the Yeatman Hospital, and I had my first Saturday job at Oxfords Bakery – this town has my heart. I know that when you support the town, the town supports you back.’

Cheers to that!