KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Graduation Collection, 2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Early Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
y initial inspiration came from Scottish M independence. Responding to the political movement, I started considering Scottish history, culture and transatlantic relationships between Scotland and North America, in terms of the British Empire.
Further expanding on the theme of the relationship and power dynamics between the two cultures, I looked at the mass displacement of the Scots to America in the 1800s as spurred by the industrial revolution. As the Scots poured into the country the Native Americans were pushed westwards, resulting in further marginalization. I was fascinated by the Western relationships, within a historical context, and their adornments, such as the Highland dress or the Native American clothing. Some ethnic cultures and their identity were grafted or disjoined which triggered me to explore ‘the authenticity of cruelty’. I drew inspirations for my design from traditional Scottish and Native American adornments, but also from the British monarchy, such as Life Guards and Yeoman Guards. By putting royal and ethnic cultural designs side by side I was able to create an interesting contrast and found surprising similarities.
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Early Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Early Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
here are two main techniques used for the collection: weave and inlay. T Leather has been used predominantly in Native
American culture, therefore leather is the key material to my concept. I used the traditional techniques of cut and set inlay but with a contemporary twist, where I embedded Swarovski crystal with the leather and covered them with Perspex. Just as the crystals retain their radiance while it’s physical shape fades behind Perspex, my aim was to blur the cultural boundaries and render the iconographies, as being both representative of each respective culture and as a new aesthetic standard for integration and understanding. I want to distil and clarify the rich cultural and historical context of the cultures as one cohesive whole. I also intend to reject the notion of using them as ‘nice’ patterns that are so often stripped of their depth, as seen in tacky gift stores and surface level branding. Juxtaposing cultures and cultural integration, abutments between historical transgression and contemporary uncertainty, my aim is to sabotage them and to create a quixotic collection which reflects the secularization of a Western stereotypical icon, such as Tartan check, Balmoral bonnet, Tam’o Shanter, feather accessory, checkered pattern, and Native American leather accessories and souvenirs.
Pioneer Days: Early Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Early Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Early Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Early Life, Future Life
A
s humanity progresses further to the future, it is a reciprocal action to look back in the past. In hopes to push the boundaries of what jewellery can do to pave way for the future, a future where traditional notions of jewellery breaks and enters a new phase of self expression, it is a necessity to learn from the historical fragments of maker’s techniques and cultures.
The stars have always and will stay as an immovable guide for humankind through the process of our evolution. Within the two projects, the Swarovski crystals serves this purpose as a star while the time frame is being explored by the ďŹ nal outcomes.
Pioneer Days
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Future Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
the dawn of time, we have always Since longed to be with the stars. In thinking about the future of crystal jewellery, I began my research by looking at our past. By tracing the history of humankind, I found that it is in large a history of pioneers and the realisation of the frontier spirit. Since the earliest times, we have travelled afar in hopes of securing a better future. Taking this idea even further, I envisioned the future of our species as breaking free from gravity and exploring the final frontier; space. In developing my idea, I drew heavy inspiration from Stanley Kubrick’s film 2001: A Space Odyssey, where the ultimate realisation of the frontier spirit is portrayed as transcendence from earthly constructs. Aesthetically, I was inspired by the collective efforts of NASA and other attempts at space exploration. Much as our history is marked by the drive to push farther, I wish to push the boundaries of what jewellery can do and pave way for the future, a future where traditional notions of jewellery breaks down and enters a new phase of self-expression. This concept is rendered as a bracelet that skews our sense of scale, a necklace that defies gravity, and a brooch that subverts the notion that a crystal must be exposed.
Pioneer Days: Future Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Future Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Future Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days: Future Life
2015
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days
2015
Headpiece with necklace
Vegetable tanned leather, Perspex, Swarovski crystals, oxidized brass. Hand fabricated. L:43 x W:13 x H:42 cm
Necklace
Vegetable tanned leather, Perspex, Swarovski crystals, rose gold plated brass. Hand fabricated. ø16 x H:5.5 cm
Necklace
Vegetable tanned leather, Perspex, Swarovski crystals, leather string, rose gold plated silver 925, cubic zirconia. Hand fabricated. ø25 x H:9.5 cm
Necklace
Hand dyed calf leather, vegetable tanned leather. Hand fabricated. L:147 x W:11 x H:0.7 cm Brooch
Vegetable tanned leather, Perspex, Swarovski crystals, yellow god plated brass. Hand fabricated. ø10 x H:2.5 cm Necklace
Hand dyed calf leather, vegetable tanned leather, yellow gold plated brass, silver 925, cubic zirconia. Hand fabricated. L:79 x W:16 x H0.5 cm
Bracelet
Yellow gold plated brass, acrylic tube, Swarovski crystals, vegetable tanned leather. Hand fabricated. ø47 x H:20 cm
Necklace
Photography
Model: Early Life Future Life
Raina, SUPA Model Lenny Johnson, d1 Model
Photographer
Takanorio
Makeup
John Maclean
Hair
Yuko Aoi
Stylist
Elle Baron
General Assistant
Haruka Taniguchi
Making
Chief Assistant
Mizuki Ichinose
Leather Works
Mizuki Ichinose Can Zheng April Huitong Reika Yamasaki
Mohican headpiece, Face mask
Lisa Kuwabara
Vector Design, Layout, Book coordination
Shinsaku Iwatachi
Vector Design, Illustration
Minori Misono
Collage Design
Aoi Itoh
General Assistants
Miwa Kakuta Ely Cao Haruka Taniguchi
Acrylic tube, acrylic rod, Perspex, Swarovski crystals, neodymium magnets, Hand fabricated. L:43 x W:43 x H:27 cm Newspaper
Headpiece with earring
Silver 925, Perspex, two-way mirrored acrylic, Swarovski crystals, wire monofilament. Hand fabricated. L:140 x W:15 x H:10 cm
Graphic design, Layout
Shinsaku Iwatachi
Collage Design
Aoi Itoh
Brooch
Silver plated brass, gilding metal, silver 925, hand dyed acrylic tube, Perspex, Swarovski crystals, vegetable tanned leather. Hand fabricated. L:17 x W:33 x H:7.5 cm
Sponsored by
KOTA OKUDA
University of the Arts London: Central Saint Martins
BA(Hons) Jewellery Design
Pioneer Days
2015