SPB
Shivani Passion Boutique SHIVANI FASHION DESIGNER
S S PRING
UMMER
Womens wear & Manswear
16/17
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Shivaley Rana Fashion Buying with Design
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CONTENTSPage Shivani Passion Boutique Trends/ Themes/ Colour Palette Inspiration Research Manish Malhota Rahul Mishra Sabyasachi Mukherrjee Manish Arora Selfridges Eastern Western – Design collection Mood Board- Royal Blue Mood Board- Royal Red Mood Board- Emerald Green Overview of Garments Embroidery made in India NHSF DMU Hindu Society- Naina 2016 (Fashion show) Magazine Front cover Many Thanks to Bibliography
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SPB
Shivani Passion Boutique SHIVANI FASHION DESIGNER
‘Shivani Passion Boutique’ is based on a small business where the designer Shivaley Rana and her team aspire to launch a concession in Selfridge stores, to showcase a unique style that has not yet been discovered in Selfridge store, where western meets eastern. Shivani Passion Boutique will continue from the style and colour ‘Passion Boutique’ trend book which will bring a whole new style based on eastern wear with a western twist. http://issuu.com/shivaley/docs/passion_boutique_trend_book_2/1 The whole idea is to create Men and Women formal wear for Spring/Summer 16/17. This inspired collection will bring different ideals towards Selfridges, as a customer in Selfridges, I always aim to see different and unique collections introducted within the fashion world, research shows theres no eastern wear within the store, therefore with my inspirational collection this concession will introduce a whole new tradition of fashion on the high street by having a small casual range designed within the collection. Based on a research survey, my target customer for Shivani Passion Boutique will be based on 20 to 45 age range, due to Selfridges categorsing popular customers with this popular age group. The price range will be based on the type of fabric and manufacturing cost, but is likely to range from £65 to £100 and above, with the desire of making it affordable for customers. The sizes will be within the 8 to 14-size range, with the option of larger sizes made to order. The largely plain fabrics will be in georgette silk and velvet sourced from India which will be embellished with unique hand-crafted Indian embroidery designs using gold and silver thread for the main collection. The colour palette will be focused on bold, rich colours such as Royal blue, emerald green and burgundy red. Matching plain jersey leggings will complement the range. Shivaley Rana
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EASTERN WESTERN
S S PRING
UMMER
16/17
Collection
Trends/ Themes/Colour Palette
ROYAL BLUE
ROYAL RED
EMERALD GREEN
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Inspiration
RESEARCH
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MANISH MALHOTRA www.manishmalhotra.in
MANISH MALHOTRA is India’s biggest fashion designer, who mostly designs for leading actresses in Bollywood. He started this career as a model while he was studying at Elphinstone College in Mumbai, then he started getting into costume designing which ‘introduced the concept of styling in Bollywood after his first film as a designer for Juhi Chawla staring in Swarg over two decades ago.’ (www.manishmalhotra.in/about) Manish Malhotra has taken Indian clothes to the international level and promoted Indian culture globally through extensive use of rich Indian fabrics, designs and embroidery. He held his first fashion show in 1999, exhibiting outfits using Indian traditional craftsmanship, colours and embroideries. He became well known for his costume designs for Indian cinema and was one of the most sought after Bollywood designers. He became internationally famous when he designed for Michael Jackson on a visit to India. More recently he has become well known with his bridal wear collections.
Manish Malhotra quotes: Mohanty, L. (2013) “That is the mark of a man consumed by passion for what he loves.” (2014 , Manish Malhotra- Fashion Designer Extraordinaire!) “I thought to myself, fashion and costumes are where my future lies. And being a die-hard fan of Hindi Movies, Bollywood was my heart’s calling”. Manish Malhotra
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Kareena Kapoor, Karisma Kapoor & Alia Bhatt with Manish Malhotra for the Vogue India Magazine Dec 2015 Issue
Bollywood Divas celebrating 25 years of Manish Malhotra VOGUE India December 2015 Styled by Anaita Shroff Adajania; Photographed by Tarun Vishwa; Hair: Gabriel Georgiou/Anima Creative Management (Kareena, Karisma, Alia, Kajol), Tina Mukharjee (Sridevi); Make-up: Rosario Belmonte/Anima Creative Management (Kareena, Karisma, Alia), George Kritikos (Kajol), Subhash Shinde (Sridevi); Jewellery by Nirav Modi
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Manish Malhotra first-ever women's wear advertising campaign in VOGUE India
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Manish Malhotra first-ever advertising menswear campaign in VOGUE India
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Manish Malhotra womenswear ad campaign in VOGUE India winter festive 2015
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Manish Malhotra womenswear
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Manish Malhotra menswear
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RAHUL MISHRA www.rahulmishra.in
RAHUL MISHRA grew up in a small village nearby Kanpur, Malhousle, Rahul Mishra grew up listening to stories of all kind of things such as historical, religious and humanity and balance which all show within work today. He graduated from Kanpur University with a chance of design school that lead him to National institute of design in Ahmedabad of a postgraduate degree. Rahul Mishra uses tessellated embroideries in his designs made by craftspeople in rural West Bengal. He won the International Woolmark prize in 2014. Patel, D. (2015) ‘For this he used wool yarn to weave a translucent fabric and then embroidered densely detailed patterns with wool… the patterns traces the transformation of a lotus into an urban landscape.’ Patino, A. (2014, ‘ Get To Know Int’l Woolmark Prize Winner Rahul Mishra’) ‘Rahul is the first designer ever from outside of Europe to home the prestigious award…Rahul was an inspiration to other and was crowed by ‘Joseph Altuzarra for his ‘Graphic hand embroidery with Merino wool yarn on jackets, dresses and pants, with the graphic design stemming from an eight-petal lotus to morph into complex structures’… ‘With Rahul Mishra, every stitch is part of an ongoing narrative. “I don’t tend to create prices of fashion that are just garments.” Rahul stated… “ Our intention is all about creating a story with every single outfit.” That’s not just fashion-talk’ Mishra says, as cited by Jay, P. (2015), “The idea was to focus on the age old artistry and techniques and to create a completely modern look, a look with a touch of surprise and newness.” He places Gandhian ideals of social good at the heart of design saying Although fashion is often perceived as a frivolous indulgence, especially in a country where poverty levels are still high, many designers see themselves as part of the solution through design-led textile development.’ (Jay, P. 2015).
"It's important to keep your passion alive. Craftsmanship is not like any profession, its not just about making money, it gives you passion and that is the magic of fashion.” Rahul Mishra
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2014 Woolmark winner Rahul Mishra’s Lotus dress, as exhibited in ‘The Fabric of India’, V&A 2016, Embroidered in West Bengal.
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Rahul Mishra winner of International Woolmark Prize 2013/14 champions the cause of Indian handlooms and weavers. Sustainable Luxury is the brand philosophy www.facebook.com/RahulMishra
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Two Mesmerizing Ensembles from Rahul Mishra’s IWP Winning Collection - Both of the garment tell a story Rahul, refers to also knows no ending, as it continues to be elaborated upon with each passing season.
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Paris Fashion Week, spring 2015 collection of Rahul Mishra, the triumphant winner of the 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize (IWP)
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Rahul Mishra Spring Summer 15/16 Ready-to-Wear - Collection
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Rahul Mishra Spring Summer 15/16 Ready-to-Wear - Collection
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SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE www.sabyasachi.com
Sabyasachi Mukherjee, one of India’s most sought after fashion designers, launched a collection in 2012 called ‘New Moon’ using both Indian and Western influences. The collection included the use of embroideries such as Kantha, Zardozi and embroidered pashminas from Kashmir. He describes his own collections as 'an International styling with an Indian soul’. (Sabyasachi.com, n.d.) According to Patel, 2015, he ‘has built his reputation on reviving and raising awareness of India’s textiles heritage’. Mukherjee is most well known for his richly embellished Indian wedding outfits for both men and women, using traditional embroidery techniques. ‘Each fabric and each stitch is associated with a story of skill and heritage.’ (Patel, 2015)
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SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE Collection
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SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE Collection
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SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE Collection
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SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE Collection
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MANISH ARORA www.manisharora.com
MANISH ARORA is one of most well known and inspiring contemporary designers in the fashion world today. His trademark palette of PINK and GOLD is his identity of his craftsmanship and unique play on colours. His clothes use strong colours, patterns and textures. Patel, D. (2015) writes ‘He re thinks Indian embroidery, applique and beading by enlarging it or applying it with a breathtaking level of detail to create garments that celebrate handmaking skills.’ Manish Arora says himself of his work ‘When I started showing internationally, I realized that I have to take my country with me… nobody else in the world could do embroidery like we do in India.’ (online video ‘Manish Arora’s Studio’, 2015. Manish Arora has worked with different other brands around the world such as Swarovski, Reebok, Mono Prix, Walt Disney, Swatch, Mac , Barbie and many more. From 1997 until now he is known for his bold, rich, Colourful design which have eye capture many international stars such Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry and many more. (Look at page 35) to find out more about Manish Arora and himself talk about his own unique designs and how its is all began.
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Manish Arora Paris Womenswear Print Highlights Part1- Spring/ Summer 2015
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Manish Arora - Festive 2015/2016 Collection
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THE FABRIC OF INDIA : at the cutting edge
www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/the-fabric-of-india/at-the-cutting-edge/
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MANISH ARORA’S STUDIO
vimeo.com/140773964
(An online video ‘Manish Arora’s Studio’, 2015) Manish Arora says himself of his work ‘Initially I was known as a kitsch designer I was very attractive to things that people will consider useless or just something that’s taken for granted. Image of typical gods or crazy posters off the street and that’s how I began, and kind of my work was standing out from there and on. Once I started showing in London is when the press started writing about ‘how colourful my work is’ is when I realised that actually my strong point is colour. When I started showing internationally, I realised that I have to take my country with me, so I started using ideas which was generic by taking inspiration like circus or taking inspiration like space, mars attack this kind of different themes, but I will actually come to Indian and make them into the most exquisite embroidery, which probably I could say today that also nobody else in the world could do embroidery like we do in India. That kind of, set me apart and then people started thinking note of me, then I was using the talent of India but in a vision, which was understood by everybody. I was not just, which is incase a lot of Indian designers they would use Indian techniques but as well use Indian history for inspiration, which become very ethnic in the end and that what doesn’t work Internationally, people what something now, people want something that’s happening around you today. When sequences I think something we live with we don’t even think about it as special anymore, often sequences consider like most common ingredient of embroidery and now using it so much the people who do it the craftsman’s they have mastered it so much that a lot of times if you don’t see it closely it looks as good as the printed vision it is as precise. Its part of my first collection the Butterfly dress, from my Paris show and that dress I remember it took us about 3 to 4 months to create because each butterfly is hand embroidered, it something I can say its become a identity.’
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Naina(2015) Indian by Manish Arora
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Naina(2015) Indian by Manish Arora
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Selfridges, Birmingham (2015, S.rana) Photos taken in Birmingham Selfridge (S. Rana) for inspiration on the environment and layout of the store for research. From visiting the store itself its came to mind, that Selfridge stores has not yet discovered an eastern area within the store, so it clicked in mind that Selfridge should have an area within the store to build a eastern band. The designer Shivaley Rana and her team aspire to launch a concession in Selfridge stores, to showcase a unique style that has not yet been discovered in Selfridge store where ‘western meets eastern’.
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EASTERN WESTERN
Designs
COLLECTION
S S PRING
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16/17 UMMER
EASTERN WESTERN
S S PRING
UMMER
16/17
Collection
ROYAL BLUE
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EASTERN WESTERN
S S PRING
44
UMMER
16/17
ROYAL RED
Collection
EASTERN WESTERN
S S PRING
UMMER
Collection
16/17 EMERALD GREEN
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Available in
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1.Floral Princess two piece Top and Long Skirt Top- crop top with long sleeves and small v net on front of neckline with gold floral hand embroidery patches on the shoulder (on the Right) Embroidery made in India. Back zip and side zip Skirt- Long skirt with gold floral hand embroidery border on the bottom on skirt. Side zip Top and skirt- Georgette Silk Dry clean only £270 2.Midnight blue dress Dress- Plain blue velvet top half with a deep round neckline back high round neckline with zip on the back, Polyester half length sleeves with gold threaded hand embroidery. Side split on both sides bottom half Plain blue Polyester. Dry clean only £65 3.Full fitted midnight Blue suit Jacket- Velvet blue fitted jacket with notch lapel collar Left and right pockets with breast pocket Trousers- Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. FabricPolyester& cotton Dry clean only Full suit- £170
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4.Full fitted midnight Blue suit Jacket- Velvet blue fitted jacket with hand embroidery Shawl collar, Left and right pockets with breast pocket Trousers- Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. Fabric- Polyester& cotton Dry clean only Full suit- ÂŁ275
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5.Full fitted midnight Blue suit Jacket- Velvet blue fitted jacket with embroidery Mandarin collar, Left and right pockets with breast pocket Trousers- Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. Fabric- Polyester& cotton Dry clean only Full suit- ÂŁ270
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6.Full fitted midnight Blue suit Jacket- Velvet blue fitted jacket with hand embroidery border on cuff, Shawl collar, Left and right pockets with breast pocket Trousers- Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. Fabric- Polyester& cotton Dry clean only Full suit- ÂŁ175 Tie- silk cotton floral woven print with Pocket Square Full set - ÂŁ25
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7.Maxi style Top- net with floral velvet print off shoulder cap sleeves, crop top blue georgette silk, back zip Skirt- maxi skirt, long from back and knee length from front with side zip, Georgette silk Dry clean only Full set- ÂŁ65
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8.Royal blue Princess crop top and dress Top- Floral blue net top half of crop top off shoulder cap sleeves, crop top blue georgette silk, side zip Skirt- princess short skirt knee length, side zip, Georgette silk Dry clean only Full set- ÂŁ75 9.Miss classy Top- velvet polka dot net top back and front chest of crop top V cut hemline at front, side zip, Georgette silk Trouser- Slim Cigarette trouser, back pocket, zip fly fastening Dry clean only Full set- ÂŁ75
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10. Princess dress Threaded/ beaded embroidery on neck line of front and back, Back full V low neck line, Netted top chest and back with embellish neck line, Front Bodies velvet, Gold netted border, georgette silk Dry clean only ÂŁ150
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Available in
11. Maxi red dress Dress- Mirrors on back and front of neck line, long from back and knee length from front with side zip, Polyester dry clean only ÂŁ145 12.Beaded embellished top and skirt Top- beaded embellished neckline on net top back and front chest piece, crop top V cut hemline at front, side zip, Georgette silk Skirt- long Georgette silk, sliver thin hem line, side split, side zip dry clean only ÂŁ170
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13.Full fitted royal red suit Jacket- Velvet red fitted jacket with gold embroidery Mandarin collar, gold Left and right pockets with breast pocket Trousers- black Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. Fabric- Polyester& cotton Dry clean only Full suit- ÂŁ270
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Available in
14. Plain Red party dress Dress- princess style dress, sleeveless, fitted to size, side zip, knee length Polyester Dry clean only ÂŁ65
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15. Rajasthani Style jacket Jacket- cotton, Polyester mirror and threaded embroidery, long sleeve, embroidery cuff, back embroidery Dry clean only ÂŁ55
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16.Spring Top- red jersey with beaded embroidery on shoulder, sleeveless, crop top. Trouser- Slim Cigarette trouser, back pocket, Available in zip fly fastening Dry clean only Full set- ÂŁ75
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17. Mr. smart Black Waist jacket , two red pockets breast pocket, with Indian red print at the back, buttons on the front Trousers- Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. FabricPolyester& cotton Dry clean only Full suit- ÂŁ175 Tie- silk cotton floral Indian silk print with Pocket Square Full set - ÂŁ25
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18.Pretty Crop top off shoulder sleeves Georgette silk, side zip Trouser under knee length beaded embroidery at the bottom of trousers. With netted Poncho Full set : ÂŁ80
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Available in
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19.classy white jacket- a classy white jacket with black Shawl collar, black Left and right pockets with breast pocket Trousers- Formal trousers, slim fit, zip fly fastening, two front pockets, two back pockets. Fabric- Polyester& 20.maxi dress dress- long from back and knee cotton length from front with side zip, Dry clean only Polyester, V front neck line, back Full suit- £175 Bow Tie- velvet green and plain black zip woven cotton with Pocket Square Dry clean only Full set - £25 £65
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21.Emerald green dress Dress- top half is embellished with beads and stone work at the front, a deep V neckline back high round neckline with zip, Polyester, sleeveless, Side split on both sides bottom half Plain green Polyester with a red thin border. Dry clean only ÂŁ80
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22.The Indian Princess two piece top and skirt Top- Crop top with fasting at the front, with a deep V neckline, long sleeve. Skirt- long creamy gold skirt with hand cutout embroidery border at the bottom of the skirt, side zip. Dry clean only ÂŁ270
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23. Modern queen Playsuit- full-length playsuit with V cut out hemline with jewels embellishment, turtle neck piece with fasting at the back, Slim Cigarette trouser piece, size to fit full suit, low Back Square neckline, side zip Dry clean only ÂŁ75
Available in
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Available in
24. Short dress Dress- netted Chest and sleeve pieces, half length sleeve with threaded embroidery and Polyester cotton cuffs, dress piece green Polyester cotton, back zip Dry clean only ÂŁ75
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Available in
25. Western wear Top- turtle neck piece, small V neckline, sleeveless, middle V split at front, jersey, slip on Trouser- Slim Cigarette trouser, back pocket, zip fly fastening Dry clean only Full set- ÂŁ75
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Overview ofGARMENTS
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EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
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EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
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EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
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EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
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EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
EASTERN WESTERN Collection
S S PRING
16/17
UMMER
Embroidery Made in Indai
Craftsman/ Embroidery designer – Roop Laxmi Embroidery made in India, Gujarat
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EASTERN WESTERN
S S PRING
UMMER
Collection
16/17 NHSF DMU Hindu Society- Naina 2016 Fashion Show
‘Thank you to everyone at DMU Hindu Society that supported me and gave me the opportunity for my first ever fashion show that showcased my Eastern Western collection and now I can say I have accomplished one of my dreams.’
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Thank you to everyone who has supported me throughout my journey, it has been a struggle but now I can say I have accomplished my dream. Shivami Fashion Designer
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Many thanks to .... Craftsman/ Embroidery deisgner – Roop Laxmi Shivani Tailoring Boutique- Pankaj Rana
PhotographersChan Parmar Miss Simone Estelle Roberts-Lawler Sean
ModelsShannon Evans Chandini Patel Surbhi Yadav Raja Johal Sheroz Khan Danish Khan
LocationBAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir ,Lecicester 135 Gipsy Lane Leicester LE4 6RH UK
Shree Krishna Mandir 81 Old Meeting street West Bromwich B70 9SZ UK
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BIBLIOGRAPHY Arora, M. (2014) World of Manish Arora [online] Available: http://www.manisharora.com/ about-manish[ Accessed 18/1/16] Bridelan(2015) [online image] Available : http://bridelan.com/ [Accessed 18/1/16] D. Patel (2015) Victoria and Albert Museum (2015) The Fabric of India. London: V&A Publishing Laxmi.R 2015, craftsman/ Embroidery deissgner – Roop Laxmi Malhotra, M. (2015) Manish Malhotra first-ever women’s wear advertising campaign in VOGUE India [Online image] Available: https://www.facebook.com/147482601960327/photo s/a.398708710171047.83019.147482601960327/961991850509394/?type=1&theater [Accessed 16/1/16] Malhotra, M. (2015) Manish Malhotra first-ever advertising menswear campaign in VOGUE India [Online image] Available: https://www.facebook.com/147482601960327/photos /a.384774231564495.80790.147482601960327/963121480396431/?type=3&theater [Accessed 16/1/16] Malhotra, M. (2015) Manish Malhotra womenswear ad campaign in VOGUE India winter festive 2015 [Online image] Available: https://www.facebook.com/147482601960327/photos /a.398708710171047.83019.147482601960327/989530954422150/?type=3&theater [Accessed 16/1/16] http://www.metromela.com/designers/manish-malhotra/ (2014 , Manish Malhotra- Fashion Designer Extraordinaire!) (17/3/16) http://www.fashionlady.in/manish-malhotra-the-savior-of-bollywood-fashion-from-80s-fiascopart-1/1607 Mohanty, L. (2013, Manish Malhotra- The Savior of Bollywood Fashion) (17/3/16) http://sakspov.saksfifthavenue.com/features/rahul-mishra-international-woolmark-prize-winner-spring-2015-interview/?crlt.pid=camp.ZpOI0e3st2tK Patino, A. (2014, ‘ Get To Know Int’l Woolmark Prize Winner Rahul Mishra’) (16/3/16) http://www.rahulmishra.in/about-us.php (16/3/16) Patternbank blog (2016) Manish Arora Paris Womenswear Print Highlights Part1- Spring/ Summer 2015 [online image] Available: http://blog.patternbank.com/paris-womenswear-print-highlights-part-1-springsummer-2015/ [Accessed 18/1/16] Syuzi (2009) Fashioning tech- Manish Arora Glow in the Dark Fashion [Online image] Available: http://fashioningtech.com/profiles/blogs/manish-aroras-glow-in-the-dark [Accessed 20/1/16] Tanna, P. (2015) 25 years of Manish Malhotra: Voguecelebrates with his leading ladies, [online image] Available : http://www.vogue.in/content/25-years-of-manish-malhotra-vogue-celebrates-with-
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Tumblr (2015) Manish Arora - Festive 2015/2016 Collection [Online image] Available: http://bollywoodishtyle.tumblr.com/post/135251514964 [Accessed 19/1/16] V&A (2015) The Fabric of India: At the Cutting Edge, Manish Arora’s Studio [Online video] Available: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/the-fabric-of-india/at-the-cutting-edge/ [Accessed 20/1/16] Naina(2015) Indian by Manish Arora [online image] Available: http://www.naina.co/2015/12/indian-by-manish-arora-festivecollection-swarovskicouture-swarovskicrystals/# [Accessed 20/1/16] Viyahs Shaadis Nikkahs(2015) [online image] Available : http://viyahshaadinikkah.tumblr.com/ post/115265637473/sabyasachi-summerresort-2015-collection [Accessed 18/1/16] WedmeGood (2016) A complete Guide to all the pin-worthy image from The Sabyasachi SpringSummer Collection 2016 [online image] Available : https://www.wedmegood.com/blog/pastel-wonder-what-do-you-think-of-sabyasachis-new-spring-summer-2016-collection/ [Accessed 18/1/16]
It's important to keep your passion alive. Craftsmanship is not like any profession, its not just about making money, it gives you passion and that is the magic of fashion.� Rahul Mishra
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