GLOBETROTTERS
01/06/2018
EDIT N
R’S TE
Travel is a gift we give ourselves… To see what is happening beyond our doorstep, to understand different cultures, to see how society and the planet is changing. Travel opens our eyes and gives us greater insight into the world, as well as into other cultures. I know it has made me a wiser, more understanding human being and, yes, even more appreciative of what I have. IF YOU ARE planning to get away, there are any number of reasons to validate the urge. The noise pollution has reached an alarming level, posing toxic threat to the senses. The kind of words coming from cultural commissars and apprentice revolutionaries has already made this place hostile to arguments. Statements that divide en the atmosphere, and to this season of hate. It only provocation for a
the mind contribute should not change of
SHIVANGI BARWAR Editor
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thickfurther be the scene.
Travel is not escapism. And when you are on the road, it is a motion of the senses, an exhilaration activated by the mystery of places and the familiarity of strangers. It is freedom too, as memories are set aside by the onrush of the new, by the possibilities of the unknown. Travel across pages and decades, and you may reach the calm stillness of Kazuo Ishiguro’s English countryside— no mad ones here, as if it is made to perfection for butlers only. The best of travel writing is not sightseeing. It is an enquiry. It is a conversation. It is an intimacy between strangers. You see, smell and taste a different cultural extension of your own world—and knowing the world becomes a physical as well as psychological thrill. What we feature in this special issue are such excursions of mind and body. Join us on the road to read and discover.
GLOBETROTTERS
POSTCARD
WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN
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Why not get involved? We’d love to include your best new travel photos (at 300 dpi) and the inspiring stories behind them. Send them with a pic of yourself at thetravelbizz@wwwm.co.in
POSTCARDS
Pangong Tso Jammu & Kashmir
STARRY NIGHTS
It was a cold winter’s night at Pangong Tso in Ladakh. It took a lot to crawl out of a warm bed, put on three layers of woollens an set up a camera to film the magnificent sky above but the effort was totally worth it! The sky was filled with a million stars that I managed to capture on camera, which finally appeared as beautiful arcs across the night sky.
Kunal Gupta
is a marketing professional who enjoys exploring new cultures.
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www.srilanka.travel
EXPLORE THE R A M A Y A N A TRAIL OF
SRI LANKA Yahangala
It is believed that King Ravana’s body after his death was kept upon this rock Yehangala - meaning bedrock. His body was kept here for his countrynmen to pay their last respects to their dear departed king. Geographically this rock is visible from miles away on its 3 sides.
Sitawaka
An interesting as well as shocking episode took place here. To shatter Lord Rama’s confidence and halt his progress during the war, Indrajith, eldest son of King Ravana played a trick, with Sitadevi’s look alike. Indrajith beheaded the look alike in front of Lord Hanuman thinking that it will stop the advancing forces of Lord Rama. There is a stone int his area called “Rampathagala” with one foot mark which is believed by the people as Lord Rama’s foot mark.This place is known as as Sitawaka.
Rumassala
During the war,both lord Rama and Lakshmana were hit by powerful arrows, fell unconscious and to bring them back to life Lord Hanuman was instructed to fetch the lifesaving herbs from Himalaya. It is believed that a part of the Sanjeevani Hill fell on this place.
The Photo Story JAKUB RYBICKI
People of Afghanistan Wakhan Corridor Life consists of strange coincidences. When I get an offer of travelling to Afghanistan I was hesitating for a while. Then I took a look at one of the National Geographic magazines from the early 80ties which I bough few months earlier in antique shop. Inside the issue I found a reportage from exact place where I intended to go - Wakhan Corridor. I hesitated no more. It turned out that 40 years later almost nothing changed. In fact, not so much changed since Marco Polo traveled this land in XIII century. Region so remote, so difficult to access, protected by the Hindukush, Pamir and Karakoram mountains, so vast and empty. There was no war here, because what would anyone right here for? See for yourself.
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[ THE POST CARD SERIES ]
Landscape and Experiences Images of the landscape are constantly used to define ourexperiences in the natural world, and we believe these images because photographs are truth. The Postcard Series: On Landscape and Experience seeks to challenge the inherent believability of the landscape photograph and our relationship to those images. This series is comprised of images that are procured frompostcards that I have bought, or have been mailed to me. Landscapes that are geographicallydistant are blended together to create new landscapes that are believable, yetdon’t exist in reality. They existbecause we can see them in front of us. We can talk about their topography and climates. If we choose to, we could visit them.
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The commodity of the postcard and the interaction that people have force this interaction, thus I “shop drop” my postcards in racks as I travel, go to the store,and visit museums. The cards are left for customers to look at, explore, and possibly purchase to send as apostcard of their own. The work then becomes a part of another story and possibly part of another’s experience with the location of the image.
Chris Mortenson Writer
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FRESHLY GLOBETROTTED
Quinoa, Feta & Broad Bean Salad ~PERU~
Serves 4 Ingredients 3 corn cobs extra virgin olive oil 1 red onion , peeled and finely chopped 1 large bunch of fresh coriander , leaves picked and stalks finely chopped, a few leaves reserved to garnish 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2-3 fresh red chillies , deseeded and finely chopped 2 cloves of garlic , finely sliced 300 g fresh broad beans , shelled, or 200g frozen 220 g quinoa 3 limes , the zest and juice of 200 g feta hot chilli sauce , to season (optional)
Method With a large knife, slice the corn kernels off the cobs. Transfer to a blender with 125ml of water and blitz to a loose paste. Pour a glug of oil into a medium non-stick pan and fry the onion and coriander stalks over a low-medium heat for 10–15 minutes until softened. Add the cumin, chillies and garlic and fry for 1–2 minutes. Add the blitzed corn to the pan and cook gently for 5–10 minutes, until just simmering but not coloured. Season well, spoon the mixture into a bowl and set aside to cool. Blanch the beans in boiling water for a couple of minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water and set aside to cool. If you like, remove the grey outer skins and discard. Cook the quinoa according to packet instructions then, while it’s still hot, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, squeeze over the juice from the limes and add the zest. Add the broad beans, toss well and leave to cool. Once cooled, chop the coriander leaves and stir through, along with the corn mixture. Spread the salad over a plate and leave to one side. Put the whole block of feta, brine and all, into a small non-stick frying pan. Drizzle with olive oil and add a splash of chilli sauce, if you like. Bring to the boil, then cook over a high heat until the feta is lightly golden. Gently turn over and cook for a few more minutes on the other side. Break up the feta with a fork, add to the salad, drizzle over any leftover dressing from the pan and scatter over the reserved coriander leaves. 25 GLOBETROTTERS
Motorcycling, Photography and Tourist Trails Mesmerized at
Munnar Arnab Maity
One of the most difficult times for a long distance rider is when his body stops listening, starts malfunctioning and lands him into a soup! Last night had taken a terrible toll on my body, thanks to the high fever I had developed in the evening! I had been shivering all night under doses of antibiotics and antipyretics and things were looking extremely grim when I went off to sleep, thinking about calling off the trip. The first light of the morning came dazzling through the balcony and the first signal I got from within was that, I was feeling much better! The medicines had done their job and I was in good shape to ride on. We decided to stay at Munnar today and explore the sights around. Everyone agreed and we pushed ourselves for Mattupetty Lake, skipping lunch. Mattupetty Lake and Dam is situated at a distance of 11 kms from Munnar town and boasts of a huge water body encircled by wooded hills and tea plantations. It’s a natural hotspot for tourists and Onam being round the corner, the crowd was more than the normal average for a rainy season. The roads were silky smooth with twisties all over, soaked in rain and invigorated by the aroma of the tea gardens. I was enjoying my curvy cruise and the pulsarians were enjoying sprinting at the corners. We hardly stopped at Mattupetty as the desire to ride on, was mounting up. Our next destination was Top Station, 30 kms away. Looking at the roads and the scenery around we had almost forgotten about our lunch, when we spotted a resort proclaiming to have a restaurant. We ordered some fiery non veg dishes to satiate the hunger, which was created instantly after the smell from the kitchen hit our nostrils! I had a chat with the hospitable owner who took us around his resort at the hill top only too make us realize that he had set up a mini paradise for nature lovers and bird watchers with a well maintained flower garden nestled in the woods offering panoramic views all around.
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The next hour or two was spent around Kundalay Lake and dam which is at a stone’s throw distance from the resort. We spent our best times together, enjoying the moving clouds and breathtaking green mountains in the backdrop. We clicked, laughed, cracked jokes, pulled legs and also performed biking stunts on the lake water. After spending some wonderful time, we decided to make a move towards Top Station. Top Station was reached in no time but we could hardly find any views from there. We moved ahead further only to reach a forest department check post, with a signboard having an interesting proclamation: “You are entering the highest road, South of Himalayas”. The entry was restricted on that road. We started our return from there and decided to stop at many places to feed our lenses. I planned to move ahead of the pack and told them to start five minutes after I leave, so that I can click them on motion. I chose a perfect location for shoot and started waiting for them. The wait which was supposed to be for five minutes kept on increasing and I stood there all alone in the lap of Mother Nature. The clouds were successfully combing down on the hills, hiding them from vicinity. The cacophony of the insects was getting louder, bringing in the darkness and the drizzle along. I stood there still with the wind engulfing my senses and giving me a high. The thump of some wheels suddenly broke the silence and I got out of the trance I was in. My pals were arriving and I got to click! It got dark pretty fast and we hurried back to the town, only to land up at the same hotel. Another day in a rider’s life was about to set soon, but this day was so fulfilling and satisfactory. With a contented heart I entered the room, off with the high, but with the hangover still on!
TRAILS
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Luxury Travel
RAJASTHAN Arnab Maity
Close your eyes and think of Rajasthan – deep beige sand dunes shimmering against a blue sky or golden fortresses bathed in sunshine will probably be the first frames to capture your imagination. If I say, how about watching brooding clouds pouring nature’s nirvana on a parched city or a dry and rugged riverbed coming alive with a flowing brook? Refreshing, wouldn’t it be? – There is something special about the monsoons in Rajasthan. When rain comes down on the dusty lands baked in the oppressive Indian summer, it’s not only the brown surface that turns verdant green but also the joy on the face of the locals that touches your heart forever. No wonder, palaces have been built here to watch the dance of the clouds and songs have been written in the glory of the monsoons.
Why to go to Rajasthan in the Monsoons?
My first trip to Rajasthan was during the rainy season and I returned happier on multiple aspects. The rains in Rajasthan are not exactly torrential downpours we get to see in a Mumbai or a Kerala. It’s more like drizzles with the occasional heavy shower. So the possibility of getting your trip ruined due to rain is close to nil.
Beat the Crowds Monsoons are not the obvious choice of season for many travelers. So if you want a bit of exclusivity in an extremely popular destination, go there during the off-season. For Rajasthan, it is the time when it rains.
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Lively Locals It’s the time of fun and frolic for the people of Rajasthan. You can fancy a chance of witnessing the traditional Goths (picnics with cooking in the open). If you are lucky you might be invited to join in, like I was.
Discounted Prices No trip to Rajasthan is complete without a stay in one of the heritage hotels made out of the palaces and Havelis of yesteryears. The monsoon season is a lean time for these hotels and they generally offer a good 30-40% discount on the base tariffs – best time to find a deal without burning a hole in your pocket.
Here are the 5 ways to make your monsoon trip to Rajasthan special:
Explore the less-trodden Bundi The Palace of Bundi had captured the imagination of Rudyard Kipling in his Letters of Marque. He wrote “Jeypore Palace may be called the Versailles of India; Udaipur’s House of State is dwarfed by the hills round it and the spread of the Pichola Lake; Jodhpur’s House of strife, gray towers on red rock, is the work of giants, but the Palace of Bundi, even in broad daylight, is such a palace as men build for themselves in uneasy dreams– the work of goblins rather than of men” Bundi still doesn’t quite make it to the itinerary of the average traveller, so its less-trodden alleys still holds the medieval charm. Check out the magnificent murals of Bundi miniature paintings in red, golden and blue at the Chatramahal or appreciate the grandeur of Kipling’s Palace of Bliss (Sukhmahal) – Bundi will take you into a time warp.
Go bird watching in Keoladeo National Park Home to over 350 avian species, the Keoladeo National Park is a year round destination for bird watchers from around the world. This World Heritage Site, formerly known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary is only 200 km away from the national capital and can be visited as a day trip or as a part of a weekend trip.
Teej Festival at Jaipur Teej Festival is held every year during the month of July/August. It marks the advent of monsoon and is celebrated widely by the married women of Rajasthan. They dress up in colorful clothes and jewelry to worship Goddess Parvati. With henna decorated hands, they swing on jhulas fixed to branches of large trees, singing the special Teej song. In Jaipur, a spectacular procession featuring an idol of the Teej Mata (Goddess Parvati), winds its way through the lanes of the Old City. It comprises of decorated elephants, horses, camels, antique palanquins, dancers and bullock carts pulling cannons. A bit of everything really!
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TRAVEL LUXURY
Tourist Trails
MUSSOORIE The Queen Of Hills
Mussoorie is one of those places which must need to be there on your bucket list. It’s a must getaway be it with your friends or family and trust me, it’s a completely different experience with both of them. A hill station, often regarded as the ‘Queen of hills’ is just a 45 minutes drive away(35km) from the state capital, Dehradun Valley; situated at the foothills of Himalayas Mussoorie experiences 34 degree Celsius during May and as low as –2 degree Celsius during January and February. Mussoorie was my most spontaneous trip this far. I was attending my photography class when my faculty asked out my batch to go out on a weekend trip and get some good clicks for our End Sems that were approaching. Adventure in disguise! A mix of nature and subdued city life, adventure awaited for me in this trip on each step. Started with a train journey, a weekend outbound plan on the cards… Turned
out
to be a group tour of 13 Everyone wanted it to be a YJHD sort of trip. :P
people.
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Since it was just a weekend that we got for exploration and photography, we went for this well planned day according to the way it was planned and landed on Dhanaulti. Dhanaulti, completely enveloped by the velvety rhodendrons, deodar, and tall oak trees, provides you with eternal tranquility and is a delight for those who love nature. Unlike other hill stations, it is set in a quiet and quaint place away from the boisterous markets of Mussoorie and offer you a great view of snow capped peaks of Himalayas. Dhanaulti was perfect! Just as the place was meant for us‌. To be captured in our lenses. PS: Everyone got a perfect DP here. ;-) From Dhanaulti, we decide to go to Lal Tibba from where one can clearly see the peaks of Badrinath, Kedarnath, Banderpunch etc with the help of a telescope. It had been few hours in Dhanaulti and everyone was already mesmerized by the beauty of the place. It was as if the roads were calling us when we all decided to stop and have a group picture amidst the road.
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Et voila, we got a perfect group shot!
So, we headed towards Lal Tibba and there we were again spellbound by the ambience of Landour Bakehouse where we decided to have a little snacks. Stupefied by the English-styled bakery’s ambience, I sat with some and had a very nice conversation and got to know a few more things about people around me (PS: a no network zone, no snapstories to save in memories but stories that were saved in heart). It was time (sunset) and I had heard about this place’s sunset but it was going to be the first time when I would be witnessing it. It was charismatic. I don’t have words for this one. The snow capped peaks were glistening.
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From here, we retired and went to our hotel at Library Chowk and wandered around the Mall Road and tried to imbibe the culture of Mussoorie. As everyone went around for shopping, I took a halt at the cliff which offered the view of Dehradun Valley which was twinkling like a heaven beneath! Tired, we went to our beds without planning out the next day. GLOBETROTTERS 40
Started the day with a pristinely beautiful view from the balcony of the hotel, the day seemed to be a bit promising but was a bit unplanned. This was when the Room service attendant came to our rooms with a news-paper and asked our plan for the day and we all were clueless. This was when he suggested for George Everest. Googled a bit… and we were ready to go.
George Everest was the home of Surveyor-General Sir George built in 1832 which offered a nice view. We reached there clicked a few photographs and this was when we spotted a group of people returning and exclaiming ‘Huff! What a Trek!’ There came the adrenaline rush and we all mutually decided to go to the trek that was just 2kms long. I must tell you, I have a phobia with heights but still I agreed to it. We started with a small steps and it was a pleasant one with nice views and a deep ditch within a few feet but as we were climbing up (literally climbing as the way was too narrow up, plus slippery stones were all around), the ditch got deeper and deeper and the way too narrow. We compared it too YJHD”s Bhootaha and there lied everyone’s enthu and people climbed up and up. Our aim was to conquer this hill and reach at it’s top. After a relatively stretch of 30 minutes, we were there on the top with a prolific, dazzling view, beneath my foot were barren rocks which in winters are capped by snow, in front of me was a complete range of Shivaliks completely visible without haze and all around me were hills covered in velvety green. It was a place where you scream your name and it echoes. There were prayer flags between this and the adjacent cliff. Un-crowded and untouched by people, there were only a few down with barbeque grills and just our group to enjoy it. I had anticipated adventure but not this deadly but it was worth it. From here, we returned back to our college after grabbing a plate of Cheese Omelette from Lovely Omelette Centre at The Mall, Mussoorie. Did a bit of souvenir shopping and back.
Shivangi Barwar Travel enthusiast.
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INSIDE NEXT ISSUE
The Maldives, Southern Atolls. The Indian ocean
BELOW THE WAVES By Matt Porteous
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GLOBETROTTERS
VOL.II
ISSUE.06
JUNE 2018
DE/89/56000