13 minute read
The Meal Deal
BY CHANA ZELDA WEISS | RECIPES BY HESHY JAY
For most people, executing a flawless holiday meal includes weeks of menu planning, shopping lists and spreadsheets. Heshy Jay, the innovative event designer of Scoop & Co. Couture Events, is not most people. When we arrive at his modern Brooklyn home, Heshy is rifling through the delivery of fresh produce and various cuts of meat and fish, discarding some old ideas and adding new ones. Heshy has a long to-do list ahead of him, but you would never know it, as he chats casually while squaring off perfect planks of potatoes to roast. “It’s the easiest way to make something simple look super gourmet,” he comments, fanning the potatoes out like perfect dominoes.
Heshy is full of little tips and tricks, all engineered to produce elegant results with minimal effort. He starts every long day of cooking by finely dicing a few red onions and a bunch of garlic cloves to be kept in small bowls on the counter to easily add a boost of flavor to any dish. Heshy sets a few eggplants over the flame to char, then rummages through the fridge to find a good sauce to brush over the smoked salmon for a new take on salmon jerky, before settling on a jar of Honeycup mustard mixed with some Frank’s hot sauce and a splash of orange juice. The doorbell rings — it’s a delivery of fresh microgreens, overnighted from a farm in California. Heshy doesn’t know how he’ll be using them yet, but he spreads them out and tastes a little of each to get a feel for the unique flavors.
There may not be a written to-do list, but Heshy runs through his menu out loud, mentally ticking off what has been done so far and what’s next. The marrow bones and roasted potatoes need some time to cook, so he brushes both with the same mixture of olive oil and spices and pops them in the oven. Turning back to the fish course, Heshy finely dices fresh raw tuna and salmon, imagining a Napoleon-like tartare, stacked with paper-thin parchment crackers. He adds a handful of diced red onion to each, followed by a bright, citrusy marinade for the salmon and an Asian-inspired one for the tuna. He tastes a bite of each, adds another squeeze of lime and nods in approval.
Moving on to the meat course, Heshy improvises with a brush of wasabi mayo on each lamb chop before wrapping them in beef bacon. The marrow bones and potatoes come out, the lamb chops go in. Things are starting to feel a little hectic, but Heshy’s demeanor stays unruffled. “It’s all about compartmentalizing everything in my head,” he says, when asked how he manages it all without getting overwhelmed. The kofta are quickly shaped out of pre-formed sliders, then seared in the same cast iron grill pan (a must for every kitchen) as the Bissli-coated oyster steak — all tricks he’s picked up to help speed up the process.
Heshy might be working on the fly, but it’s with a purposeful vision of how it will all tie together in the end. That creative vision translates into a lavishly set table, the rich purple tablecloth contrasting elegant matte black stemware and delicate butterfly-adorned dishes. The striking black branch-like centerpiece is adorned with butterflies (you can spray paint your own branches to mimic this look) and the water bottles are wrapped in clear butterfly-printed paper from Love Paperie for a custom look.
It’s almost time to wrap up the shoot and Heshy hasn't even started on dessert yet. “Improvising is all about using what you have on hand,” he says, as he artfully crumbles store-bought cake onto a dessert plate, interspersed with dollops of whipped cream and homemade fruit compote. “Even if you didn’t plan a fancy dessert, if you have some biscotti, pound cake, chocolate pudding, lemon curd or anything else, you can make it look gourmet.” There is no greater testimony than the finished results — with a final flourish, the master of something-from-nothing finishes his restaurant-worthy dessert with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds and it is clear that he has achieved exactly that.
Tuna & Salmon Tartare Napoleon
Serves: 4
The parchment crackers create a crunchy element to this dynamic fish dish while simultaneously adding presentation value.
TUNA TARTARE
• 8 ounces sushi-grade tuna, finely diced
• ⅓ cup diced red onion
• 2 tablespoons minced chives
• 1 tablespoon sweet soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons rice vinegar
• 1-2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• 1-2 teaspoons olive oil
SALMON TARTARE
• 8 ounces sushi-grade salmon, finely diced
• ⅓ cup diced red onion
• ¼ cup diced mango
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
• Juice of ½ lime
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• ½ teaspoon garlic powder
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Parchment crackers (such as Tuscanini)
• Guacamole (recipe follows)
1. Combine tuna with red onion and chives. Dress with sweet soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and olive oil and toss gently to coat.
2. Combine salmon with red onion, mango and dill. Dress with lime juice, salt, garlic powder and pepper and toss gently to coat.
3. To serve, layer parchment crackers with a layer of tuna tartare and a layer of salmon tartare. Top with guacamole. Serve immediately with spicy mayo.
Sea Bass Sliders
Serves: 6
Sea bass is a pricey cut of fish, but a little bit goes a long way when served in a slider.
• 2 (6-ounce) sea bass filets
• 2 teaspoons spice rub of choice
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Juice of 1 lime
• 6 slider buns
• Tomato Salad (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Rub sea bass with spice rub, then drizzle with oil and lime juice.
2. Cook for 20 minutes, until opaque, then flake into large chunks. Serve on slider buns with Tomato Salad.
Everything Seared Tuna Sliders
Serves: 6
Sesame crusted seared tuna is always a hit, but using everything bagel seasoning takes it over the top.
• 2 (8-ounce) tuna steaks
• ¼ cup spicy mayo
• ½ cup everything bagel seasoning
• Oil, for searing
• 6 slider buns Rainbow Cabbage Slaw (recipe follows)
1. Coat tuna generously with spicy mayo. Pour everything bagel seasoning onto a shallow plate and press tuna steaks into spice mix to coat all sides.
2. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large sauté pan. Sear tuna for 45-60 seconds per side for rare (cook longer based on preferred doneness). Let cool, then slice. Serve on slider buns with Rainbow Cabbage Slaw.
Three from the Sea
Salmon Jerky Sliders
Serves: 6
This unique take on a jerky was so addictive and easy to prepare. It was inspired by Heshy's good friend Zak Stern of Miami's Zak the Baker. We recommend using thick-cut smoked salmon, if you can find it, but any variety will do.
• 1 (8-ounce) package sliced smoked salmon
• ¼ cup honey mustard
• 2 tablespoons orange juice
• 1 tablespoon Frank’s hot sauce
• 6 slider buns
• Guacamole (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread smoked salmon on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet.
2. Combine honey mustard, orange juice and hot sauce and brush over salmon.
3. Cook for 1 hour, flipping halfway or until edges are crispy. Serve on slider buns with guacamole.
Guacamole
Mash 1 ripe avocado with ¼ cup diced red onion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, the juice of 1 lime, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ teaspoon garlic powder.
Tomato Salad
Yield: 2 cups
Combine 1 pint chopped cherry tomatoes, ¼ cup diced red onion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ teaspoon garlic powder. Let sit for at least 10 minutes to marinate.
Rainbow Cabbage Slaw
Yield: 3 cups
Combine ½ head shredded red cabbage, 1 diced red or orange bell pepper, 1 diced green bell pepper, ⅓ cup diced red onion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh mint, ¼ cup olive oil, the juice of 1 lime, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Let sit for at least 10 minutes before serving.
Crispy Potatoes
There is nothing simpler than the basic potato. For a dramatic presentation, fan each potato out onto a baking sheet and roast, then transfer to individual plates for serving.
Trim edges of 1 pound peeled Yukon Gold potatoes to form even rectangles. Slice into planks of even thickness, then shingle each potato on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Combine ¼ cup oil, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika and 1 teaspoon garlic powder and brush mixture onto potatoes. Cook at 375°F for 1 hour or until golden brown and crispy.
Crusted Oyster Steak with Crispy Potatoes
Serves: 4
• 2 (1-pound) oyster steaks
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 2 (2½-ounce) bags crunchy
• BBQ snack (like Bissli), finely crushed
• 2 tablespoons oil Roasted Mushrooms (recipe follows)
• Crispy Potatoes (recipe follows)
1. Season steaks with salt and pepper, then thinly brush all sides with mayonnaise. Pour Bissli crumbs onto a shallow plate, then press steaks into crumbs to coat all over.
2. Add oil to a cast iron grill pan or sauté pan over high heat. Sear steaks for 3-4 minutes per side. Let rest before slicing. Serve with Roasted Mushrooms and Crispy Potatoes.
Roasted Mushrooms
Toss 1½ cups assorted mushrooms with 1 tablespoon oil and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast at 400°F for 20 minutes.
Seared Duck Breast with Carrot Ginger Purée
Serves: 2-4
Frozen fruit works perfectly here if fresh mangoes and plums are hard to find. Substitute apples for a more seasonal flavor profile.
• 2 skin-on duck breasts
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon oil, for searing
• ½ cup diced red onion
• ½ cup diced mango
• ½ cup diced plums
• 2 tablespoons fig jam
• ¼ cup triple sec or brandy
• Carrot Ginger Purée (page 73, for serving)
1. Using a very sharp knife, score duck skin diagonally or in a criss-cross pattern, until almost all the way through the skin but not reaching the flesh. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides.
2. Add oil to a cast iron grill pan or sauté pan over high heat. Sear duck breast, skin side down, for about 7 minutes or until crispy. Flip and continue to cook for a few minutes more, until just cooked through. Set duck breasts aside, leaving rendered duck fat behind.
3. Add red onion and fruit to the rendered duck fat and sauté for 5 minutes, until softened. Lower heat, add fig jam and simmer for 10-15 minutes.
4. Return duck breasts to the pan and add triple sec or brandy and cook for just a few minutes more. Serve sliced duck breasts with sauce and carrot purée.
Beef Tartare Marrow Boats
Serves: 8
Marrow bones are typically sold as large pieces, but ask the butcher to halve them to make great vessels for this beef tartare.
ROASTED MARROW BONES
• 4-8 marrow bone halves
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
BEEF TARTARE
• 12 ounces oyster steak, finely diced
• 1 package beef fry, broiled until crispy, chopped
• ¼ cup diced red onion
• 3 tablespoons diced Israeli pickles
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons mustard
• 1 tablespoon truffle oil
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 egg yolk
• Microgreens and crackers or toast, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange marrow bones on baking sheet, cut side up. Combine oil, salt, pepper, paprika and garlic powder and brush onto marrow bones. Roast for 1 hour, then let cool.
2. In a large bowl, combine diced steak, beef fry, red onion, pickles, garlic, mustard, truffle oil, olive oil and egg yolk.
3. Scoop marrow out of bones and add as much as desired to the beef tartare. Mix to combine, then add into roasted marrow bones. Garnish with microgreens and serve with crackers or toast.
Lamb Kofta with Charred Eggplant and Cashew Milk Tahini
Serves: 8
Feel free to use ground beef or chicken in place of lamb or for a gourmet presentation, use all three and serve as a trio. Using preformed sliders is a great shortcut.
• 1 pound ground lamb
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving
• 1 tablespoon finely minced cilantro, parsley or chives
• 2 tablespoons oil Charred Eggplant (recipe follows)
• Cashew Tahini (recipe follows)
1. Form meat into small football-shaped kofta. Season with salt and pepper, then press herbs into the top of the kofta.
2. Add oil to a cast iron grill pan or sauté pan over high heat. Sear kofta for 4-5 minutes per side or until cooked through. Serve over charred eggplant and top with a drizzle of cashew tahini and additional freshly ground black pepper.
Charred Eggplant
Char 4 mini eggplants over an open flame, turning occasionally, until fully charred, about 6 minutes per side. Alternatively, you can wrap eggplant in foil and oven roast at 500°F for 20 minutes. Once cooled, halve for serving.
Cashew Milk Tahini
Using cashew milk in homemade tahini imparts a wonderful flavor, as opposed to just using water. Try any nut milk, just make sure it’s unsweetened.
Blend ¼ cup tahini, juice of ½ lemon, 3-4 tablespoons unsweetened cashew milk, 1 clove minced garlic, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Thin with additional cashew milk, if needed.
Beef Fry-Wrapped Lamb Chops
Serves: 4-8
• 8 baby lamb chops
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 6-8 tablespoons
• Gold’s wasabi sauce (or honey mustard), plus more for serving
• 2 (4-ounce) packages beef fry
• Potato chips or Cauliflower Purée (page 78), for serving
1. Preheat oven to broil. Season lamb chops generously with salt and pepper. Brush each lamb chop with about 1 tablespoon of wasabi sauce, then wrap with a slice of beef fry.
2. Broil for 5 minutes, turning halfway, until cooked through. Serve with potato chips or Cauliflower Purée.
Dessert Hack
Hack your way to a fancy looking dessert with some cubed store-bought cake, whipped cream, fresh fruit and compote. Heshy used store-bought pound cake, whipped cream, pomegranate seeds and compote (Isaac’s Riesling Peach Compote, page 80).