T H E L E AT H E R R E TA I L E R S ’ & M A N U FACT U R E R S ’ J O U R N A L
Miller Leather
23
Hansen Western Gear
33
Longship Leather
The
Many Masks of Angela Sasser
35
APRIL 2 0 1 7
S I NC E 1984
W W W . P RO L E P T I C. NE T
$6.50
THE LEATHER RETAILERS’ & MANUFACTURERS’ JOURNAL
APRIL 2017
FEATURES 23 Marrying Into Leather 27 The Many Masks of Angela Sasser
44
33 The Art of Leather Burning 36 Hansen Western Gear 44 Montana Leather
33
27
The Many Masks of Angela Sasser
IN EVERY ISSUE 4 Laugh Lines 8 Hide Report 15 Goods & Services 19 Boot and Shoe News 48 News, Notes & Queries 55 Classifieds 2 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
Longship Leather Published by Proleptic, Inc. • P.O. Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 Ph (828) 505-8474 • Fax (828) 505-8476 • shoptalk@proleptic.net Read Shop Talk! online with links to advertisers and online information. www.proleptic.net ShopTalkLeatherMagazine
Proleptic, Inc. is the creator of an original work of authorship entitled "Shop Talk!". Proleptic, Inc. attempts to maintain the highest accuracy of content; however, neither Proleptic, Inc., nor any of its officers, employees or agents, warrants, makes any warranties, guarantees or representations as to the accuracy or timeliness of any information published or referenced in "Shop Talk!". Under any and all circumstances, Proleptic, Inc., including its officers, employees and agents, shall be held harmless from and against any loss caused by reliance on the accuracy, reliability, or timeliness of such information.
Shop Talk! is published monthly (ISSN 1547-0121) by Proleptic, Inc. Subscription rates are $36 annually, $39 (US) for Canada and Mexico, and $54 (US) for all other countries.
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SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 3
LAUGH LAUGH LINES LINES
ONE SUMMER EVENING during a violent thunderstorm a mother was tucking her small boy into bed. She was about to turn off the light when the boy asked with a tremor in his voice, “Mommy, will you sleep with me tonight?”
LAUGH LINES
His mother smiled and gave the child a quick hug and sad, “I can’t, dear. I have to sleep in Daddy’s room.” As his mother gently shut the bedroom door, the boy whispered, “The big sissy,” and buried his head underneath the covers.
4 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
There are advantages of living in a flood plain: • you can fish right from your couch. • going to the river is a lot quicker. • you can finally reach those low hanging dead limbs. • meeting your neighbors gets a lot easier since their junk keeps floating through your living room. Created by Bedneyimages - Freepik.com
e nce between a hors re fe if d e th s t’ ha W and the weather? r in and the othe One is reined rains down.
LAUGH LINES
What do you call two str
aight days of rain?
A weekend.
What goes up when the rain comes down? An umbrella.
IT HAS BEEN RAINING DAYS AND DAYS, and a terrible flood had covered the state. The waters rose so high that one man was forced to climb onto the roof of his house. As the waters rose higher and higher, a man in a rowboat appeared and told him to get in. “No, thanks,” replied the man on the roof. “I have faith that the Lord will save me.”
What do you call d
angerous precipit
A rain of terr or.
ation?
What do you call a month’s worth of rain? England.
So the man in the rowboat After that the man stranded prayed to God to save him. rose higher and higher and speedboat appeared.
went away. on the roof The waters suddenly a
“Climb in!” shouted the man in the boat. “No, thanks,” the man said. “I have faith that the Lord will save me.”
Problems with Japanese Banks
LAUGH LINES
Analysts report that there is something fishy going on at the Sushi Bank and staff here fear they may get a raw deal. Meanwhile, shares in Kamikaze Bank have taken a nose dive, and 500 jobs at Karate Bank will be chopped.
So the man in the speedboat went away. The man on the roof once again prayed to God for delivery. And the water continued to rise. Then a helicopter appeared in the sky and, over its loudspeaker, the pilot explained that he would lower a rope to the man on the roof. “No, thanks!” shouted the man up to the pilot as he waved off the helicopter. “I have faith in the Lord that he will save me.” So the helicopter flew away, and the man once again prayed for deliverance. Eventually, the water rose so high that the man was swept off his roof and drowned. Upon arriving in Heaven, the man marched straight up to God and said, “I had faith in you! I prayed and prayed for you to save me! Yet you did nothing! Why?” God gave the righteously angry man a puzzled look and said, “Well, I did send you those two boats and a helicopter. What more did you expect?” SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 5
LAUGH LINES
One night a torrential downpour soaked south Louisiana. The next morning the floodwaters came up about 6 ft. into most of the houses in the area. Mrs. Boudreaux was sitting on the roof of her house with her neighbor Mrs. Thibodaux, waiting for help to come. In just a little bit Mrs. Thibodaux noticed a lone baseball cap floating
near the house. Then she saw it float far out into the front yard, then it floated all the way back to the house. And it kept floating out and then floating back. Finally, her curiosity got the best of her so she asked Mrs. Boudreaux, “Do you see that baseball cap floating away from the house and then back again?” Mrs. Boudreaux gave a big, heavy sign and replied, “Oh, yes, that’s my husband. He said that he was going to cut the grass today come hell or high water!”
405 FM 3083 RD., CONROE, TX 77301 USA TEL: 936-539-1400 ~ FAX: 936-539-1411
WWW.CAMPBELL-RANDALL.COM 6 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
1-800-327-9420
SALES@CAMPBELL-RANDALL.COM
The Plumber and the Neurosurgeon A plumber attended to a leaking faucet at a neurosurgeon’s house and, after a twominute job, gave the doctor a bill for $150. The doctor exclaimed, “I don’t charge that much even though I’m a surgeon!” The plumber smiled and replied, “I know, you’re right. I didn’t either when I was a surgeon.” On coming home from a late night at the office, a partner at a prestigious law firm discovered that his basement was flooded! What a mess! So he called a plumber that offered 24 hr. service and he showed up in about twenty-five minutes. When the plumber came into the attorney’s house, the man was carrying a spare set of overalls and a cap that read, “Blue Collar Guy”. The attorney, still dressed in his expensive suit, tie, and dress shoes, chuckled, “I like the hat. But you’re the first plumber I’ve met who brought a change of clothes to a job.” The plumber smiled and nodded his head then went down into the basement. The attorney heard him banging away
and, before too long, the plumber came back upstairs. “I’m almost done,” he said. “I’m going to write up your bill and then I’m going out to my truck for a tool I need to finish up.” Then the plumber added, “The overalls and hat you asked me about, they’re not for me. I’m looking for a new assistant and I was hoping you might know of somebody who wanted a job.” The lawyer responded with more than a hint of condescension, “I’m an attorney. Who would I know that would want to work as a plumber?” The plumber shrugged and handed the attorney his bill. A couple of minutes later when the plumber had returned from his truck, he found the lawyer dressed in the hat and overalls. "I had a chance to look over your bill while you were out,” said the attorney and added, “You just found yourself an assistant.”
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SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 7
YOU R GLO BAL PERSP ECT IVE
The Hide Report
The following is used with permission from hidenet.com, the premier source for information regarding the worldwide hide and leather markets. Please remember that while this information will be a month old by the time it reaches you Enjoy.
HIDES SLIGHTLY ON THE RISE Heavy Texas Steers are up $1.00; the same is true for Branded Steers and Butt Branded Steers. Heavy
8 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
Native Steers are steady, while Plump Cows have gained $2. So why the increase? It seems that people are feeling upbeat as to how the economy is performing which is even affecting the current hide market—more hides are being bought. Steer prices have climbed about 2-3% in just seven weeks. Plump branded cows have gone from a January average price of $36 up to $39. Wet
The Hide Report blues, previously suffering from a malaise, have found volume buyers who appreciate their comparative value. Still, it may be a bit early to celebrate. Synthetics haven’t gone away and, if leather prices increase very much, it’s quite likely that improving market share will start to decline again. In early March, producers lamented that they did not see much in the way of healthy buyer interest in the form of aggressive bidding for many selections. However, analysts believe that we are in a time frame for about the next two months, or less, of the peak leather selling season for footwear and accessories. Leather is being seen in more footwear styles for the fall/winter season than has been the case in quite some time, but once this leather has been bought, sales are predicted to
slow. Upholstery should remain a solid destination for the types of hides utilized, but that consumption alone cannot be expected to support current price levels. Analysts are not anticipating any sort of price apocalypse going into the summer and, at least so far this year, there has not been any “irrational exuberance” regarding prices. However, analysts recommend some degree of caution with respect to inventory in the coming months.
SALES EXCEED SLAUGHTER/SHIPMENTS Combined export sales for the period ending February 16 totaled 592,100. This is up from the 451,300 pieces sold the week before. Adding a guesstimated domestic consumption of 35,000 and total sales were 627,100 pieces. Shipments for the same period were 520,200 and slaughter was
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SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 9
The Hide Report 575,000. Sales surpassed slaughter by 52,100 hides and shipments by 106,900 pieces.
TANDY LEATHER FACTORY NAMES NEW CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Tandy Leather Factory, Inc., announced that Tina L. Castillo has been promoted to Chief Financial Officer and Treasurer of the company, effective February 7, 2017. Ms. Castillo replaces Shannon L. Greene who had been serving as the company’s Chief Financial Officer and Treasurer since her appointment to those positions in May 2000. Since February 2016, Ms. Greene has also been serving as the company’s Chief Executive Officer and will continue in that role. Ms. Castillo, 46, has served as TLF’s Controller since February 2016. Prior to joining TLF, Ms. Castillo served in various senior financial leadership roles since 2009, including as Chief Financial Officer at another publicly traded company based in Fort Worth. Ms. Castillo began her career in 1994 in the audit practice group at Ernst & Young, LLP, and received her BA in business administration. She also holds a MA in professional accounting from the University of Texas and is a certified public accountant.
TRENDING: A GLIMMER OF HOPE FOR GARMENTS? Like the new sunrise, a new fashion season can herald hope… hope that leather garments might
10 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
return to the limelight. While it’s no secret that this has been the weakest leather sector for some time, perhaps a slow return to action might be ahead. Recently, we’ve included some stories about fashion week runway shows. It turns out that Tods showed plenty of leather garments and leather embellished garments along with its shoes and bags. Similarly, the Saint Laurent show had leather items that were felt to be pretty hot. Poke around some of the runway shows of other luxury brands— like Fendi— and it’s possible to see more jackets and leather garments than we have for a while. Besides, footwear makers should be happy to see that over-the-knee boots are still going down the runway in good numbers at many shows. Stimulating demand from the luxury end on down is a good thing. Add to that the fact that synthetics are increasing in price and some consumers are finding that alternatives don’t have anywhere near the same longevity as leather there just might be better times ahead. [Bottom line: more leather is being used.]
MON PURSE BANKS SUCCESS ON MASS CUSTOMIZATION If you pop into Bloomingdale’s in New York in search of a new handbag, you might notice that, next to the Rebecca Minkoff, Marc Jacobs, and
The Hide Report
APRIL 2017 MARKET IN REVIEW Selection
Weight (lbs.)
January
February
March
weights vary month to month
(early)
(early)
(early)
Price Last March
Heavy Texas Steers
66-68
$69-70
$71-72
$72-73.25
$61-63.50
Heavy Texas Steers (Hvy)
74-76
$72-73.50
$74.50-75
$66-67
Branded Steers
66-68
$62-63
$65-66
$67-70
$55-63
Branded Steers (Hvy)
74-76
$71-73
$71-73
$72-75
$62-63
Colorado Steers
66-68
$61.50-62
$65-65.50
$66-67
$52-53
Butt Branded Steers
66-68
$73-74.50
$72-74.50
$74.50-75
$68-69
Butt Branded Steers (Hvy)
74-76
$76-77
$76-77
$78-81
$73-74
Heavy Native Steers (Hvy)
74-76
$78-79
$77-78.50
$79-80
$77-78
Heavy Native Heifers
52-54
$57.50-58
$58-59
$57-58
$54-59
Branded Heifers
52-54
$56-57
$52-53
$54-55
$51-55
Heavy Native Cows
52-54
$43-44
$44-46
$44-46
$44-45
Branded Cows
52-54
$35-36.50
$36.50-38
$38-39
$34-36
Holstein Dairy Cows
52-54
$54-55
$55-56
$58-66
$56-59
100-110
$52-59
$52-59
$54-59
$49-51
Native Bulls
$73-73.50
(early)
The Hide Report Salvatore Ferragamo displays, there’s a new brand called Mon Purse. Unlike other handbag brands that rely on the expertise of a designer to construct fashionable products each season, Mon Purse invites customers to design every part of a handbag from scratch using a 3-D bag maker on the brand’s website or on a screen in a department store. Once you decide on a silhouette— say, a tote or a clutch— you can pick the color and texture of leather, the hardware, and what to monogram on the side. The final product then gets delivered to you within a month. The concept of bespoke handbags is nothing new, but until now it usually meant going to a high-end store and working with a craftsman. The whole endeavor could cost thousands of dollars. Another
12 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
startup, 1Atelier, has modernized the process with a digital interface, but the brand’s bespoke bags target the luxury customer who spends an average of $1,200 on a handbag. With the clever use of technology and a reimagined supply chain, Mon Purse has not only been able to achieve customization at scale, it has done so in a way that makes these products more affordable: you can get a wristlet for $65 and a satchel for $480, all designed to your exact specifications.
TOTAL SHOE CONCEPT LAUNCHES ONLINE SOURCING TOOL UK-based Total Shoe Concept is a B2B, fully comprehensive online sourcing tool especially created for the footwear industry that officially launched on February 12. The website is for companies and buyers to find all
The Hide Report the products and services that they need to make shoes. Suppliers and individuals can advertise their products and services on a platform that connects the whole industry. The site’s creators believe the industry needs a tool that grabs the whole market, where you can find specific products and services that you would normally not find in the same place. For example: shoe factories, leather, textiles, lasts, outsoles and heels, components, accessories, high-tech products, machinery, and also services like designing, certification, and training institutes. Suppliers can pay an annual fee of $99 to create their own company profile. Please visit www.totalshoeconcept.com.
The plant will initially process about 50 head a day and then increase that number until it reaches 800 head according to Cam Daniels, director of marketing. The long awaited opening of the former Rancher’s Beef plant northeast of Calgary suffered delays with municipal permits and other setbacks since Rich Vesta, formerly of JBS USA, purchased the operation in 2013.… Cattle will be held on site in an enclosed barn where they will be processed the day they arrive. There’s a refrigerated space for 1,000 carcasses. Alberta Processors in Calgary is handling rendering so there will be no odor from the plant.
NEW PACKER IN CALGARY, ALBERTA
CARGILL TO EXPAND CANADIAN FACILITY
Canada’s newest federally inspected meat plant, Harmony Beef, is scheduled to open February 27.
Cargill plans to spend $2.7 million to expand and upgrade and Ontario, Canada, processing facility
1-877-845-0080
www.maverickleathercompany.com
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 13
that handles 1,500 head of cattle per day. The Ontario government will supplement part of the cost of the expansion project by contributing nearly $500,000, a move Ontario’s Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs said will help the province remain competitive, according to online publication Meatingplace. The Cargill project is also expected to maintain 1,600 local jobs at the plant west of Toronto. Cargill is expected to install value-added protein processing technology at the facility that will allow for the manufacture of protein rich animal feeds while also reducing the plants impact on the local environment.
CHINESE WAGES EXCEED BRAZIL, ARGENTINA, AND MEXICO
SUN BIAS, INC.
INDUSTRIAL SEWING SERVICES 1718 N. 1ST. STREET ** MILWAUKEE, WI. 53212
Average wages in China’s manufacturing sector have soared above those in countries such as Brazil and Mexico and are quickly catching up with Greece and Portugal after a decade of breakneck growth that has seen Chinese pay packets triple.
Serving the needle trades 90 years. POLYPROPYLENE WEBBING Firsts & Seconds. 28 colors on Firsts 59/60” NYLON FABRICS Firsts & Seconds Urethane Coated. 60 colors on 1000-Denier & many other fabrics. HOOK & LOOP Sew on 1/4” to 6”, some widths in 35 colors. P. S. (Stick on) 5/8”-5” Rubber & Acrylic. SPECIAL Hook/Loop. Call for prices ELASTICS Woven H D 1” thru 3” & Ex H D, also knitted & braided types. PLASTIC & METAL HARDWARE for webbing & miscellaneous items Grommets Washers 3 colors & Snaps 39 cap colors.
Firewood Bundle Webbing Handles Automated Hot/Sear Cutting on webbing, Elastics and Hook & Loop. For no-fray ends use Hot cutting on webbing for belt tip ends. 2-1/4” Electric Webbing & Rope Cutters for cut it yourself. Self-Locking Nylon Ties (Cable Ties) 4” thru 15”. BIAS or STRAIGHT CUT fabric binding tape slitting SINGLE & DOUBLE folded Bias Tapes * 200+ colors. CORD EDGE PIPING 200+ colors & Asst. Cord Fillers for horse blankets.
Up to 200 Catalog color pages available. Save paper order as needed from our catalog index pages and the latest changes by e-mail in the same day to sales@sunbias.com (or USPS mail takes longer) TOLL FREE NATION WIDE 1-800-425-4747 • FAX 1-414-265-5353
MOST IN STOCK MATERIALS ARE SHIPPED WITHIN 24 HOURS. MASTER CARD,*VISA,*DISCOVER & E-CHECKS
14 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
Across China’s labor force as a whole, hourly incomes now exceed those in every major Latin American state except Chile. They are also at around 70% of the level in weaker eurozone countries, according to data from Euromonitor International. Average hourly wages in China’s manufacturing sector tripled between 2005 in 2016 to $3.60, according to Euromonitor, while during the same period manufacturing wages fell from $2.90 an hour to $2.70 in Brazil, from $2.20 to $2.10 in Mexico, and from $4.30 to $3.60 in South Africa. Chinese wages have also outstripped Argentina, Colombia, and Thailand during the same period.
Goods & Services APRIL 2017
• StarLux at 3230 Strasburg Rd., Parkesburg, PA 19365, (610) 857-3630, does 3D design and printing. They can make prototypes or do production. This probably means small pieces made out of plastic. Now, after speaking with different machine shops, it seems that other materials other than plastic can now be used in 3D fabrication such as brass, bronze, and different types of steel—and not just for small parts but for much, much larger items. Could 3D manufacturing be something you could use? • Global market analyses on sports footwear (running footwear, golf shoes, hiking shoes, walking shoes, athleisure, training, etc.) are available from
Research and Markets in Dublin, Ireland. Contact: amy. cole@researchandmarkets.org, (800) 526-8630 (US). The report covering 2016-2020 includes commentary on the market landscape, segmentation by products, geographical segmentation (by country), market challenges, new technology, etc. This report costs $2,500 US. • El Paso Saddleblanket has a new 2017 wholesale catalog. It’s 63 pages and has everything Southwestern—from skulls to saddle blankets! There are also a lot of blankets and throws for people as well as totes, handbags, rugs, and jewelry. You better get one! Contact:
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 15
Goods & Services Tandy Leather Factory still mails out flyers with a nice listing of specials so you better GET ON THEIR MAILING LIST! It’s handyTheir address is 1900 SE Loop 820, Ft. Worth, TX 76140, and visit www.tandyleather.com. Lots of sales on leather and shearling. There’s even veg sheepskin, sole bends, different double shoulder, and North American economy deerskin. Pictured here are three different fringe bag kits on sale.
16 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
Goods & Services 6935 Commerce Ave. El Paso, TX 79915 (800) 351-7847 www.ElPasoSaddleblanket.com • If you sew any sort of fabric—fabric for tents, outdoor furniture, boat covers, tote bags, boot bags, truck covers, outdoor gear, awnings, protective clothing— you will find Specialty Fabrics Review a wonderful source of information about new developments in needle design, thread manufacture, new sewing machines, and a many, many different types of fabrics that a surprising number of things like conducting a current and regulating a person’s (or horse’s) temperature. Get a copy and see for yourself what a great source of information the Review is. Contact: 1801 County Road B W Roseville, MN 55113 (800) 225-4324 www.ifai.com
• These specials from Hillside Harness Hdw., host of this year’s Harness Makers’ Get-Together and consignment auction, are good through April 31, 2017. Back ordered will receive discounted prices. Here goes: Wahl Clipper Specials
º Buy a Motion clipper and get two 5-in-1 Pro Blades free. º Buy a Figura clipper and get two 5-in-1 Fine Blades free. º Buy a KM5 clipper and get $30 off an Arco clipper. º Buy a Powergrip clipper and two Ultinate #10 Wide blades andget a Bravmini free. º Buy a KM10 clipper and get a Mini Arco free. º Buy a Bravura or Chromado Clipper and get a Diamond Blade F º 40% off Pocket Pro clippers. º 25% off Show Pro Plus and Equine Essential Grooming º 25% off all Ultimate blades Fortex and Fortiflex Specials
º FB-120 20 qt. flatback. Colors. $4.95 º FB-120 20 qt. flatback. Black. $4.65 º SDF-18 Super Fork. Black only. $7.95 º HF-16 16 qt. over the fence feeder. 10% off º CF-24 corner feeder. 10% off. Contact: Hillside Harness Hdw. 4205 Township Road 629 Millersburg, OH 44654 (330) 893-1510 fax (330) 698-3200
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 17
Goods & Services โ ข Here are some very good deals on leather from the folks at Sho Tan: ยบ Suede in assorted colors. Reg. price: $1.95/ sq. ft. Sale price: $1.25. ยบ Top Grain. Choose chap or upholstery Leather. Reg. price: $3.95/sq. ft/. Sale price: $2.95. ยบ Strap Leather TR, 5/6, 6/8, 8/10 oz. Reg. price: $118/side. Sale price: $98.50. ยบ Economy Strap Leather, 5/6, 6/8, 8/10 oz. Reg. price: $98.50/side. Sale price: $93.50. Contact: P O Box 130 Rossville, GA 30741 (800) 251-7288 e-mail: bonnie@americansaddlery.com
18 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
P EOP LE PRODUCTS PL AC E S
Boot & Shoe News
SSIA TO BOARD QUEEN MARY FOR 2017 CONVENTION, JULY 22-23 The 2017 SSIA annual convention will be held in Long Beach, CA. Always lots of very useful, very practical seminars cum trade show where you can see the different new products that a variety of suppliers from all over the world have on display. Don’t miss it! The dates are July 22-23, 2017, at The Queen Mary, •Swivel Knives
•Blades
•Stamping Tools
Smooth & Sharp Affordable Dependable Guaranteed!
1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, CA 90802, (877) 342-0742 for reservations. Mention the SSIA and book your room early to take advantage of the discounted rate. For additional information, visit the SSIA website at www.ssia.info.
•Sharpening Tools
•Leather Lacing Punch
•Hand Lacing Punches
The BRONZE - Our newest! Titanium coated swivel knife - $124.95 Black Titanium coated blades - $39.95 Both come in a variety of sizes Tough, sharp, forever rust-free blades Tough, super smooth beautiful knives
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Save $5.00 when knife with blade purchased together Phone: 760-749-5755 • We Ship Internationally We do not have a printed catalog • Please see chucksmithleathertools.com
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 19
Boot & Shoe News
CLASSY CLASSIFIEDS! Wow—so many good business opportunities and equipment for sale in this month’s Classifieds. Give them a look!
AND THE WINNER IS! Last year, Superior Threads sponsored a contest for the best top stitched boots and offered a $100 gift certificate. The work was judged on detail, use of color, and uniqueness. And the winner is: Carl
20 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
Chappell of Carl Chappell Boots! Wow! What lovely work. We understand that these boots are the first pair that Carl ever made so we expect great things from this young man! Congratulations, Carl! Many thanks to Todd Purcell at Superior Threads for sponsoring this contest and supporting the custom boot making and shoe making trades.Thank you, Todd! You may contact Todd at (800) 499-1777, www.superiorthreads. com. Shop Talk! will also be sending Carl a check for $100 in recognition of his fine workmanship.
My Buyer’s Guide!™ Reach 16,000 shops,
EVERY
manufacturers & retailers •Tack Shop • Western Store • Belt Maker • Saddle Manufacturer • Bag Maker • Harness Shop • Maker of Leather Goods in U.S.
e ad 1/8 pag th
00 $18E 93/7/2015
Reach Manufacturers of:
DEADLIN
•Outdoor Equipment •Safety Equipment
•Sporting Goods •Pet Goods •Luggage
Sell your:
•Supplies •Finished Goods •Business Services •Horse Healthcare Products •Leather Care Products •Machinery •Hardware
My Buyer’s Guide!
TM
PO Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 ph (828) 505-8474 • fx (828) 505-8476 • info@mybuyersguide.net
www.mybuyersguide.net
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 21
ShoTan LEATHER 800-251-7288 Veg Tanned - Upholstery Skirting
Smooth Grain Shoulders - Suedes Culuttas Exotics - Drum Dyed Harness - Latigo
SUPER LEATHER SALE!
$117
$112 $111 $107 $103 $103 Cowhide Ostrich Asst Colors Cowhide Gator Asst Colors Cowhide Elephant Asst Colors Suede Leather- Assorted
$5.95 ft $6.25 ft $6.50 ft $3.95 ft
ASSORTED HARDWARE CLOSEOUT!
$5.75 $5.95 $6.10 $1.50
CALL!
Upholstery and Chap Leather Assorted Colors Lt Grey Lt Green Royal Blue Lavender Orange Red Rust All - $3.95 ft
Marrying into
Leather
by Liisa Andreassen, Staff Writer
S
teve and Carye Miller, a husband and wife team, have been in business together for twenty-nine years. They’ve been working side by side at Miller’s Leather Shop, located on Main Street in Hardy, AR, a small tourist town filled with antique and specialty shops. Its strategic location on the main highway going to Branson in the Ozarks allows the Millers to interact with people from all walks of life. “People stop in from everywhere,” Carye says. “And everything is made in the USA. We love what we do and do what we love. They say that if you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life. I think that’s very true of our business. The leather trade is
a lot of work, but we really enjoy every minute. We feel blessed to work for ourselves and appreciate every single customer that chooses our custom-engraved products for themselves and as gifts for their loved ones.” IN HIS BLOOD
Steve learned leather work from his family. His parents taught him to tool leather when he was just twelve years old and his many cousins and aunts and uncles also work in leather, so he came by his skills somewhat naturally. "Leather work is in my blood,” Steve says. Carye says that Steve is really amazing to watch when he works. “He can hand tool a basket weave belt faster and more consistently than anyone I have ever seen,” she says. “He’s just gifted and I’m lucky enough to be here to help him with our business.” SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 23
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Steve’s favorite items to craft are the custom holsters and knife sheaths and, when he has time, saddles and tack. He typically does most of the cutting, tooling, riveting, attaching, machine repair, and so on. “We have a large workshop with every industrial machine that you can imagine,” says Carye. “We have clickers, edge dyers, edgers, embossers, laser engravers, heavy duty stitchers, hydraulic rivet machines, snap setters, splitters, and skivers. We’ve accumulated a lot over the years.” DUTIES DIVIDED
Carye says when she married Steve in 1988, she also married into the leather trade. Lucky for her, she loves it! She handles the business side of things and manages and maintains their website and virtual Etsy and Amazon stores.
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The
Many Masks of Angela Sasser by Liisa Andreassen, Staff Writer
W
hat started as a hobby soon began to take over her life, says Angela Sasser, a 35-year-old, Atlanta based artist with a penchant for fantasy. She grew up absorbed in mythology and particularly enjoyed tales of tricksters, elves, and winged beings and, later in life, managed to convert this interest into a career.
BRINGING FANTASIES TO LIFE
With two BA degrees—one in in English and the other in Studio Art—and an MA in arts administration, her part-time career as a leather
By day she works as an illustrator and that continues to be her main line of work, but she quickly learned that her love of painting fantasy art translated well to leather mask making as well. She’s been doing that for about five years now and it serves to supplement her primary income. She says it’s also her “fun time.” SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 27
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crafter slowly evolved. “I’ve always been fascinated with masks as symbolic elements in my art,” she says. “I began making the masks from my paintings in clay and eventually discovered the leather mask tutorials of Andrea Masse-Tognetti. Leather proved to be the perfect medium for making these masks. The flexibility and breathability make leather perfect for wearable props.” So, just who is wearing these masks? Most of Sasser’s masks have been purchased by cosplayers who specialize in fantastical characters or photographers looking for high fashion props for their photo shoots. “I create masks that help to bring fantastical creatures and fairy tales to life in a unique way,” she says. It’s her desire to help people channel the essence of their characters hidden within
and to help them draw on their true potential to be beautiful, terrifying or anything else their imagination can conjure. LEARNING THE CRAFT
Sasser’s leather masks are meticulously carved by hand, soaked in water, and baked in an oven to harden them. After hardening, she paints them by hand. Main artistic influences include art nouveau, pre-Raphaelite art, the Symbolist, and 90s comic book artists. And, while she has done custom work in the past, she is currently focused on her personal mask designs. “I like to think my unique expression and fantastical subject matter set me apart from others who may be using their leather crafting skills for similar projects,” she says. “There are some talented mask makers out there like my mask mentor, Masse-Tognetti of Merimask; my good friend, Brenda Lyons of Windfalcon; and my fellow cow folder, Roland Wong of SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 29
B3 Designs. We use similar methods, yet each of us has an artistic vision and style that makes our masks unique. For example, my background as a visual painter adds a unique artistic touch to my masks.” Sasser works out of her home studio where she has set up a leather station. It’s the same space where she creates her paintings. And, while her leather crafting mostly focuses on masks, she has also made some hair brooches, necklaces, bookmark, and barrettes. Her leather comes mostly from Tandy Leather Factory since she says their “specials are so good!” How long does it take to make a mask? It depends on the mask. Some of them can be quite detailed. Not counting drying times or breaks and including the research and design time, on average, it takes about 10-12 hours to complete a mask with a moderate amount of detail. For Sasser, the most difficult thing about the 30 APRIL 2017
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mask making process is not so much the time, but the physical repetition. “It can be hard on your hands, neck and shoulders, but it’s not difficult to do once you have the proper tools,” she says. Her personal favorite is the Januaryflower-and-garnet-themed one from her “Ladies of the Month” series—a multimedia series of masks and paintings inspired by birthstones. Each month there is a portrait of a lady accompanied by a matching leather mask. Each mask is a limited edition and only ten of each design will ever be made. She’s also partial to the fairytale inspired black and white swan masks. Sasser is also the author of Angelic Visions: Create Fantasy Art Angels with Watercolor, Ink and Colored Pencil, an illustrated how-to book which has been published for the mass
“I create masks that help to bring fantastical creatures and fairy tales to life in a unique way.” —Angela Sasser market by Impact Books. In the near future, Sasser is planning to produce her own coloring books. If you’re interested in learning more about the mask making process, Sasser has free tutorials at www.youtube.com/user/angelicartisan
and also sells mask making resources at www. gumroad.com/angelicartisan. You can view more of her artisan work at: www.angelicartisan.com and check out her “Ladies of the Month” series at http://nouveauladies.angelicshades.com She’s got a shop on Etsy too: http://angelic artisan.etsy.com. CONTACT INFORMATION
Angela Sasser 125 Horseshoe Circle Fayetteville, GA 30215 (678) 852-2772 angela@angelasasser.com
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New York artist enhances his leatherwork with pyrography
THE ART OF LEATHER BURNING by Lynn Ascrizzi, senior staff writer
J
osh Christensen, an artist-craftsman who specializes in building theater sets, first picked up leather work as a kind of hobby. But, it wasn’t long before he turned his art form into a start-up, home based enterprise called Longship Leather in Poughkeepsie, NY. “The name reflects my Scandinavian heritage. It represents the quality craftsmanship that the Vikings used to build their longships,” he said of the long and narrow wooden vessels that Norse seafarers used for trade, exploration, and warfare. From the start, Christensen, 31, incorporated a wood burning pyrographic technique into his leatherwork skills. “I had been doing work on
wood and bone prior to that. I had been into crafting, woodworking, and pyrography before starting my business,” he said. Soon, he was burning handsomely rendered, realistic images such as roses, skulls, daggers, decorative scrolls, and lettering onto leather belts, guitar straps, bottle openers with a leather grip, and small, detailed wall hangings. Burning artwork on leather also gave him a creative niche. “The nice thing about pryrography—you can do a lot more detail work that you may not find in traditional leather tooling. You can go in a different direction. It’s a unique option. The idea is to focus on a niche, do a few things really well, and then work on expanding,” he said. Prices for his leatherwork start at $25 for a plain bottle opener; decorated openers range from $40 to $75. Decorated guitar straps are $250 or higher. “The more details or lettering burned SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 33
musicians, folks into the tattoo culture or those who admire pictorial artwork.
Josh, Beth, and Wilder Christensen in the Longship Leather workshop
in, and the more personalized the art work or text—the more prices go up,” he said. His most popular product? “The bottle openers,” he said. “It’s a small, easy, novelty gift with a good price point. We do a lot of personalized gifts. I get a lot of people who want to buy a gift.” His customers tend to be
When first getting into pyrography, he looked at a lot of online companies who manufacture wood burning systems. After researching and checking product reviews, he opted for Razertip®, a variable temperature, pyrographic tool. “I got it online from their website, [www. razertip.com]. It’s basically like a soldering tip or wood burning pen,” he explained. Hundreds of different stock tips are available with the basic tool, he added. “You can make your own tip, too. If I need a skew, or a spear shader, I can change it out. I have three or four pens that I actually use. I don’t have a need for the interchangeable tip pen; it’s easy enough for me to change pens. The interchangeable tool would be more cost effective, however, if you use a lot of tips.” Various tip styles helps him to achieve different
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lines, shading or fine details. He prefers three tips: a shading tip; a skew, which looks like a knife with a ¼” blade; and a writing pen with a tiny, 1/16” ball. His unit’s temperature control also adds to design versatility. Christensen recommends that beginners dial a low temperature setting. “Leather is soft and burns easily. If you use a high temperature, it can cut through like butter. The leather will scorch,” he warned. His burner’s temperature control goes from 0 to 10. “It gets red hot at 10—the end glows red. The nice thing about this machine is it heats up pretty quickly and cools down quickly.” To create his designs, first, he draws an image on paper. To transfer the drawing onto a leather
“The nice thing about pyrography — you can do a lot more detail work that you may not find in traditional [leather] tooling.” —Josh Christensen, Longship Leather surface, he simply covers the back of the drawing with a soft graphite pencil or stick. Then, he places the drawing face up on the leather and traces over his design. This creates a graphite transfer onto the leather which is easily erased if necessary. Typically, pyrography works better on natural cowhide and with lighter shades of leather, he said. “You lose the shading dimension if the leather is dark brown or black. Natural leather ages beautifully, and the art work acquires a sepia tone over time.” To protect his finished leather designs, he often applies an acrylic finish. “The acrylic has a continued on page 46
BURN, BABY, BURN: PYROGRAPHIC HOW-TO TIPS Maybe you were one of those lucky kids who received as a holiday or birthday gift a beginner’s wood burning kit. It came with a couple of small, sanded wood plaques, sample patterns, a really cool, wood burning pen and various metal tips or points that heated up when plugged into an electric socket. What fun! This method of creating art by burning an impression on wood and leather is called pyrography — “pyro” meaning fire or heat, and “graphy” meaning writing or drawing. But pyrography is not just for kids. Pyrographic systems and tools abound for adult artistic types, ranging in sophistication from hobby to professional. And they’re priced accordingly—from under $20 to roughly $300. Skilled artists use professional grade pyrographic tools that come with lots of different sized tips to create shading or lines. You’ll want a unit that lets you dial up different heat settings, too. It behooves you to check out various models and their reviews. So, how’s it done? Here’s a summary of pyrographic tips found online: • PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE: If you’re new to pyrography, find a few small scraps of leather to practice on. This way, you’ll get used to handling the tool and discover the effects produced by different tip styles, temperatures, and types of leather. While you’re at it, practice different drawing techniques –thick or thin lines, shading, cross-hatching and stippling (the use of small dots or specks to fill a design area). • START WITH A SKETCH. When you’ve come up with a design, sketch it onto tracing paper. Lay the thin paper over the leather to find the best placement. Lightly outline your design, using a finely pointed tool. Or you can apply a soft graphite pencil on the back of your drawing and then trace over the design with a pencil to transfer the image onto the leather. Carbon paper also works, but it’s hard to erase. • BURN SLOWLY. Start with basic lines and design elements. Gently and gradually build up line weight, shadin, and detail. Use lower temperatures. Too much heat can mottle the leather. “You can always go darker, but you’re there you can’t go back. You can’t lighten it up,” Josh Christensen of Longship Leather advised. • LEATHERS TO USE: Experts recommend unsplit, veg tanned leather and/or suede with a natural, unfinished surface. Lighter colored leathers produce a higher contrast when burned which lets your design stand out. Thin leather can wrinkle when touched by a hot burner. • PROTECT YOUR DESIGN with a moisture resistant finish.
HANSEN WESTERN GEAR Purveyors of Silver by Jim Tatum Tim Hansen has loved horses and been around them all his life. So has his wife, Marie. So have his children and grandchildren.
Tim and Maria Hansen
36 APRIL 2017
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So it’s logical that the Hansens would own and operate one of the premiere designers and manufacturers of engraved sterling and silver plate in the country. Hansen Western Gear, located in Oakdale, CA, designs, creates, and distributes a wide variety of hand engraved
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sterling silver, rust and silver and silver plate items for saddle makers—everything from conchos and buckles to corner plates, mock billets, and stirrup bolts—as well as gift items such as knife sides, flasks, belts and buckles, and lots of jewelry.
FAMILY AFFAIR Tim Hansen, now 74, and his wife, Maria, 69 bought the business in 1997 from family friends and have never looked back. These days Tim and Marie are joined by son Tim and his wife Kelleigh and grandson Wyatt who is rapidly making a name for himself on the rodeo circuit.
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SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 37
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Springfield Leather Company
1463 S. Glenstone Springfield, MO 65808 1-800-668-8518 www.springfieldleather.com
Hansen’s booth at the Denver Market
Hansen was a roper and rider in his day; his children and grandchildren have been successful in Western style equestrian endeavors and activities, and they all have an agricultural background. In fact, it is that love of ranching, rodeo, horses, and rural outdoor life that has helped shape, guide, and grow their business, Hansen said.
our website you like, then we refer you to one of our distributors.”
“We all have a rodeo and ranching background, so we have a pretty good idea of what people who do that want,” Tim said. “We work with our customers—personalized service—to try to get them exactly what they want.”
According to Hansen, a number of retailers distribute Hansen Western Gear in the U.S. Most are located in the Midwest and the West, including in states such as California, Texas, Arizona, Utah, South Dakota, Montana, Illinois, and Ohio; however, they do have distributors east of the Mississippi— in Tennessee, Rhode Island, and Colorado. They also ship to customers all over the world, including Canada, Central America, Europe, and Australia, he said.
NOT A RETAILER
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Hansen Western Gear is not a retailer, he explained.
While Hansen Western Gear designs and creates a wide variety of items saddle makers use such as conchos, buckles, corner plates, swell covers, latigo covers, and stirrup bolts, the company does not manufacture items such
“We are a manufacturer and a wholesaler—we don’t want to be in competition with our distributors,” he said. “If you see something on
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 39
as D-rings. To help cover that need, Hansen recently partnered with a company out of Phoenix, AZ, Walsall Hardware. Ultimately, the goal is to get the customer the items they need as quickly as possible. To that end, Hansen tries to keep a large number of items in inventory all the time.
CUSTOM WORK “We work with both larger production outfits and smaller custom saddleries—the artists that make maybe one or two saddles a month,” Hansen said. “Some of the special order items can take a little while—some of those custom orders can take 6-8 weeks sometimes. But we keep a pretty good inventory all the
40 APRIL 2017
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time so that we can usually do very quick turn around.” Hansen Western Gear is something of a niche business—not many people are in the business and even fewer do what Hansen does. However, in recent times, Tim said he has noticed some increased competition from Chinese hardware manufacturers. “They can do some things and they can be less expensive, but they can’t do a lot of the things we do,” he said. “We do a little of everything— whatever our customers want, we can get.” For more information visit the website at www.hansenwesterngear.com or call (209 8477390.
MARRYING INTO LEATHER continued from page 25
Every spring they work many hours per week filling orders for groomsman gifts and some days Carye says she doesn’t even get up from the sewing machines.
“When you have a small business, you have to be a jack of all trades – photographer, seamstress, artist, designer, marketer, accountant – the list goes on,” she says.
“I could probably sew with my eyes closed. I’ve done so much of it,” she says.
Carye also does the majority of the stitching, dying, laser engraving, stamping, and personalizing for most of their prod- ucts. Their son, Jim, finally convinced them to invest in a laser engraver, so they are now able to do much more custom and personalized work. Currently, they own three laser, and they just don't know how they made do without them before.
The couple started their business by selling products at many of the major trade/ craft shows across the country. As their inventory grew, they decided to open the storefront. Now, folks bring guns and knives to them to get holsters and sheaths made. They also make things like custom Bible covers with whatever the customer has in mind.
“I suppose what sets us apart from other leather makers is the amount of wallets and money clips we make,” Carye says. “We make about ten different styles of wallets with every design and style.”
Their youngest son, Dave, is great at fixing the family business’ machine, too. In fact, Carye says that they call him whenever they need help with repairing a machine and he usually knows what to do to have it up and running
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again in no time. Their oldest son, Jim, is the “computer guy” and created the website when he was only fourteen years old. “THE FUTURE”
“I can remember him telling us that the Internet was going to be the future,” Carye says. “We didn't really believe that customers would actually buy things online, but we humored him anyway and let him build our website. Boy, were we ever wrong! He reminds us of this often.” LOL. The couple now agrees that online is where most all of their business is done and where most of their customers “get to know” them. Jim has an online business too and has helped his parents learn about how to get their products seen by the right audience.
“We don't know what we would do without his knowledge of online marketing,” Carye says. “Even if you have a great product, in order to sell it, you must put it in front of a customer who wants to buy it or has an interest in it. It's pretty simple really.” PERSONALIZED PRODUCTS
So nowadays, they spend most of their time filling orders from everywhere. And they do mean everywhere. “We’ve sent our products to every state and just about every country,” Carye explains. “Our busiest times are the holidays, and we usually have to shut down early because we cannot keep up with the demand that comes in for our products.” Custom engraved leather products include personalized key chains, belts, wallets, buckles, guitar straps, money clips, luggage tags, holsters,
42 APRIL 2017
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cell phone cases, Bible covers and more. They also became a licensed manufacturer with Real Tree Camo leather about ten years ago and many of their CAMO products appeal to the country crowd – deer and duck hunters, cowboys, etc. “We try to make products that are completely different than anything else out there. I think we’ve succeeded,” she says. Currently, they get their leather and supplies from a variety of USA suppliers. All their veg leather for wallets and belts comes from Hermann Oak Leather. They’ve been with them for many years and love the quality of their tooling leather. “There is just no other leather that is as much fun to work with as Hermann Oak,” she comments. “It does cost more, but we think it’s worth it. We also rely on Weaver Leather, Tandy, and Springfield Leather Co. for all of our hardware, dye, etc. These companies, and others, have always shown us the highest level of integrity and customer service.” And, when the couple is not toiling away, they can often be found on their farm. Steve loves to coon hunt and has raised and trained several top coondogs. He enjoys his nights in the woods, hunting with his dad and riding his mule, Rosie.
“We stay very busy, but still try to make time to stop and entertain our grandbaby, Emma, when our son and his wife, Bayley, come home to visit,” says Carye. CONTACT INFORMATION
Carye Miller PO Box 691 Hardy, AR 72542 (870) 856-4226 millerleather@ msn.com
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 43
MONTANA LEATHER: STAYING RELEVANT IN A CHANGING INDUSTRY
Patrick MacPherson by Liisa Andreassen, Staff Writer It’s a company that has stood the test of time. Originally founded in 1908 by George MacPherson and dubbed Montana Shoe Co., the store offered footwear, shoe repair supplies, and leather. It then started to offer harness leather and harness repair since those items were in big demand for the mule trains used in the copper mines at the time. Today, there’s a growing craft movement and Montana Leather Co. is keeping in step. Doug MacPherson, 56, George’s, great grandson, is the company’s current owner. He moved to Butte in 1983 to eventually manage the place which was a big change from working at a fish market in Seattle. He had no previous management experience but was up to the challenge and learned the tricks of the trade from Bert Markovich. “The greatest business challenge to date has been to stay relevant,” Doug says. “The market is constantly changing. We’re getting more and more demand for craft-type products—this part of the business is really blossoming—and less of the cowboy stuff. For example, you’ll now see many more stamping tools on our web site than you would have in the past.” He explains that the overall environment in which they 44 APRIL 2017
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Doug MacPherson operate is also much different than years gone by. “We used to do mostly phone orders and walk-ins. Today, it’s a lot of online and foot traffic as well. We have to adapt. Patrick, my son, is handling getting as many products as possible on our website and we also have sales managers who do trips around the region. They are constantly keeping their eyes and ears open and asking around for new opportunities.” Doug says that they are also working to extend their reach to retail and wholesale customers across the country through trade shows and aggressive website development.
TODAY'S BUSINESS Today, Montana Leather Co. operates primarily as a wholesale distributor of leather, saddlery, and shoe products, and also offers retail service for the casual craftsman or enthusiast. As a wholesale distributor, it partners with other companies that manufacture shoe and saddlery products as well as tanneries. The majority of its current sales are still comprised of business from saddle makers, custom leather shops, and shoe repair services. Leather is by and large the most popular product sold and it ranges from tooling leather and upholstery to garment leather. “We try to occupy every niche of the industry,” says Doug.
“The market is constantly Since 1908, Montana Leather Co. has maintained a brick and mortar shop that operates mainly as a warehouse but also a retail store. It currently takes advantage of a busy location in downtown Billings.
changing. We’re getting more and more demand for craft-type products— this part of the business is really blossoming…”
Laurey MacPherson, Doug’s wife, works the front during the weekdays for retail customers.
—Doug MacPherson
“Walk-in newcomers are often surprised by how large of a space we occupy. We have about 14,000 square feet and we don’t spare an inch for empty space,” Doug comments. “Business is good, but it can always be better,” Doug says. Currently, Montana Leather Co. employs eight people for its day-to-day operations. There are also three other sister (or brother) businesses: MacPherson Leather Co. in Seattle, which was originally owned by Doug’s eldest brother, Greg, until his sister Laurie took charge after he relocated to Tennessee; and Oregon Leather Co. in Portland, OR, and Eugene, OR, which are managed by Doug’s brother, Jim. The business distribution all took place many years ago when Gordon MacPherson, Doug’s father, had a conference of sorts.
“He owned all the different shops and needed to step down, so he distributed the stores among family” Doug explained. Today, while all the businesses operate independently they will help each other as needed through supply sharing.
“For example if one of the shops runs out of a particular leather, we’ll sell it to them at our cost. We help each other out that way,” he says. “Each place is a little different and has its own centralized market for the region.” So, who’s next in line for a business? Patrick, Doug’s son, laughs and says that he’s hoping to take over the business “when his name is called.”
CONTACT INFORMATION Patrick MacPherson mail@montanaleather.com 2015 1st Ave. N. Billings, MT 59103 (406) 245-1660 or (800) 527-0227 Editor’s note: Montana Leather prints two different catalogs. One catalog shows spurs, blankets, barn supplies, blankets, finished leather goods, etc. The other contains leather, hardware, tools, silver trim, and supplies for leather workers, boots makers, and shoe repair shops.
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 45
offers an assortment of leather and hardware, craft supplies, grommets and tools, apparel, holsters, and accessories.
THE BIG LEAP
THE ART OF LEATHER BURNING continued from page 35 milky consistency but dries clear. “I use acrylic if the work is more of a showpiece.” Otherwise, he uses Fiebing’s Aussie Leather Conditioner that contains beeswax. “It brings out that nice patina,” he said. Christensen uses top grain cowhide for guitar straps and black bridle leather for belts. He purchases most of his leather from Weaver Leather Supply based in Mt. Hope, OH (www. weaverleathersupply.com). The company carries bridle and garment leather, saddle skirting, belt blanks, webbing, and rope, spooled suede leather lacing, leather care products, tools, machinery, leather aprons, and more, and offers free shipping on orders over $100. He also orders leather from Zack White Leather Co., based in Ramseur, NC. The company
46 APRIL 2017
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This past spring, Christensen and his wife, Beth Christensen, and their 6-month-old son, Wilder, moved from densely populated Queens, one of five boroughs in New York City, to Poughkeepsie, NY., dubbed the “Queen City of the Hudson,” located midway between New York City and Albany. “We did everything at once,” he said, referring to their new addition to the family, making a stressful leap out of the big city, and buying a new home in Poughkeepsie. “We were looking for more space—a quieter area—and we have friends here as well. The other draw is that there’s a strong unity of artists and makers in Poughkeepsie. We’re an artsy family,” he said. Beth is also involved in theater and teaches children’s classes in ballet, modern dance, jazz, and tap dance at Queen City Dance Studio in Poughkeepsie. It wasn’t long before their new home’s 400 sq. ft. double garage was converted into a leather workshop. Currently, he runs his leather business part-time, scheduled around his work at Shadowland Stages in Ellenville, NY. The professional theater company is set in
the Catskills, a large, scenic vacation spot in southeastern New York state. The wooded and mountainous area is located only three hours from the jammed streets of Manhattan. “I do leatherwork in the evenings or on weekends. Up here over the winter, theater work slows this time of year. It’s the nature of the theater industry. Poughkeepsie is only about forty miles from the theater and about seventy miles from Queens. It’s so easy to take the train from Poughkeepsie to Queens.” community. We’re feeling things out,” he said.
PROMOTION These days, business is mostly word of mouth. He also promotes his work by using social media like Instagram and Facebook. “I post an interesting photo of what I’m doing and a product. Certain hashtags* expose it to people interested in the product and they extend my audience so much. Beth helps me out with promotion, ordering material, and social media. She’s a great sounding board. She has a good eye,” he said. His goal is to get into craft fairs and local markets. “There are quite a few small shops all over the Hudson Valley and New York City that sell works by local makers,” he said. Every couple of months, Christensen e-mails customers his Longship Leather e-letter. The bottom of every page of his website (www. longshipleather.com) includes a section where people can sign up for it. He includes newsy items about products being worked on or items centered on the holidays. “It leads to a few sales, but at this point nothing major because the list is small,” he said.
For beginner’s info on how-to use hashtags as a social media marketing tool visit https:// blog.hubspot.com/marketing/hashtags-twitter-facebook-instagram#sm.00mh9bb6119odtw11cn2ahe6gvnwe or http://mashable. com/2013/10/08/what-is-hashtag/#.P6EQ. EjikqV
CONTACT INFORMATION Josh Christensen Longship Leather 10 Hasbrouck Dr. Poughkeepsie, NY 12603 (917) 351-4201 info@longshipleather.com josh@longshipleather.com www.longshipleather.com
For him, marketing and promotion are his biggest challenges. “We feel like once we get the word out there and find the right group of people, things will take off. We’re new in the SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 47
APRIL 201 7
News, Notes & Queries
COME ON DOWN TO THE ROUNDUP! Pardner—you had better mark on your calendar
356-3197, www.bootandsaddlemakerstradeshow. com.
Oct. 6-7 because that’s when this year’s Custom
If you’re just getting into the leather trade—and
Boot & Saddle Makers’ Roundup takes place and
100’s of young folks are—then one good way to
you do NOT want to miss that because it’s just
put yourself on a learning fast-track about who
about the best trade show ever! Great people,
has what sort of supplies, leather, and equipment,
great products, and great vendors.
then you cannot do better than to attend the
All the new people and products you’ll see certainly makes the trip worth it. And, VENDORS— you better sign up early for booth space because things fill up quickly. Why is that, you ask? Because
Roundup. It’s an education. Plus you get to rub shoulders with the best boot and saddle makers in the world. Nice people. See you there!
the Roundup is not about “show and tell,” no, siree! It’s all about SHOW and SELL, SELL, SELL!
BEST TOOL & EQUIPMENT AUCTIONS
So let’s get those dates on your calendar and then
So many new people getting into leather work!
head to Wichita Falls, TX, to the MPEC Center. For
And they’re starving for information! They’re
all the details, please contact the show hosts,
looking for tools and supplies and equipment! So
Eddie and Kathy Kimmel, at Kimmel Boot, 2080
if you’re a newbie (or even an oldbie) and looking
County Road 304, Comanche, TX 76442, (325)
for some great deals on used tools, equipment,
48 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
News, Notes & Queries hardware, overruns, surplus products, etc., then
Now if YOU’RE having a sale, please let us know
get yourself to the following auctions—they are
at least 60 days PRIOR to the event and we will
the best!
mention it at no charge. Ads for scheduled events
• Weaver Consignment Auction in Mt. Hope, OH, June 14-15. It’s always great. (800) WEAVER-1, www.weaverleather.com. • 48th Annual Harness Makers’ Get-Together and Consignment Auction. The auction will be on July 20, and should be a real good one since the folks at Hillside Harness Hdw. in Millersburg, OH, will be hosting it.
need to be received a minimum of 60 days prior to the sale or auction. Please contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 5058474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Thanks!
45TH ANNUAL CARRIAGE MAKERS’ GET-TOGETHER This is an event that I never miss because there’s
You might also stay in contact with Jim Cox at Moser
more fightin’ and fussin’ than Christmas dinner
Leather, (513) 889-0500, www.moserleatherco.com.
at Arkansas Hillbilly’s house. A lot more! Those
Jim hosts several auctions throughout the year.
buggy makers know how to party! It’ll be on July
THE
HIDE HOUSE We Stock Over 1,000 Types & Colors of Leather!
New & Improved Full Color Catalog Upon Request
FEATURING:
Chap Leather (125 colors available), Embossed Cow Sides, Garment & Hair-0n Hides, Genuine Buffalo, Genuine Salz Latigo, Harness Leather, Metallic Cow Sides, Patent Leather, Skirting, Strap & Upholstery Leathers
Ask about new programs New Tibetan Sheepskin New Napa Excel of Allure Premium Plates (20 colors!) Stuffed Cowsides for Upholstery leather! for Old-Fashioned Personal Leather Goods104 Colors available! Wooly Chaps. Unreal Leather!
Become a Preferred Customer! Benefits of becoming a preferred customer:
• Very BEST pricing for the leathers you use the most • Receive immediate notification of leathers going on sale. • Added luxury of choosing only leathers that interest you, eliminating unwanted emails. • Notification of new products and services as they become available ensures the personal service you deserve.
Logon: www.hidehouse.com Visit: 595 Monroe St., Napa, CA 94559 Call: 800-4LEATHER (800-453-2847) Fax: 800-255-6160 SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 49
News, Notes & Queries 14 at Jerusalem Carriage in Penn Yan, NY, where
MARK YOUR CALENDAR!
the founder of The Harness Shop News (now
Shop Talk!) lives—hello, Leroy! For all the details you can call Everette at the buggy shop in Dayton, VA—(540) 879-9260.
MAY 19-21 240
Everette likes to be called real early before he gets
Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show Sheridan, WY Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal (888) 289-6409 www.leathercraftersjournal.com
too busy so it’s OK to call any time after 5 AM.
JUNE 14-150
Weaver Consignment Auction Mount Hope, OH, 44660 (800)-WEAVER-1 JULY 20-210
48th Harness Makers' GetTogether and Consignment Auction Hillside Harness Hardware Millersburg, OH, 44654
Or real late at night after 11 PM. And while you’re at it, you might as well congratulate Everette on celebrating his 50th year in business! Wow!!
46TH ANNUAL SPRING CARRIAGE AUCTION It’s always good! It’s the annual Martin’s Spring Auction of antiques, coaches, carriages, sleighs, and other horse related items. It’s great! And it’s scheduled to be held this coming April 28-29 at the Lebanon Fairgrounds, 80 Rocherty Rd., Lebanon, PA. You may contact Martin Auctioneers at (717) 354-6671, www.martinauctioneers.com.
84TH ANNUAL MEETING OF EAIA The Early American Industries Association will be meeting this year at Old Sturbridge Village
OCTOBER 6-70
Custom Boot & Saddle Makers’ Roundup Wichita Falls, TX Contact Kimmel Boot 2080 County Road 304 Comanche, TX 76442 (325) 356-3197 www.bootandsaddlemakers tradeshow.com.
in Sturbridge, MA, May 17-20. Activities include
!
W NE
Braiding Fine Leather:
Techniques of the Australian Whipmakers
by David W. Morgan
For beginner/intermediate. Flat and round braiding–4, 6, 8 strand. 7 projects. Clear step-by-step instruc tions. 148 pp. $19.95 + $2.85 SH
Proleptic, Inc. • PO Box 497 • Belgrade ME 04917 (207) 495-3600 • email: shoptalk@proleptic.net 50 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
News, Notes & Queries
tours, demonstrations, seminars, and tool trading. Members only. For all the details, please contact: P O Box 524, Hebron, MD 21830.
WHAT DO YOU WANT TO KNOW?
WHEN YOU MOVE. . . Before you move, please send us your NEW address because the Post Office does not forward
Shop Talk! So if you move and are no longer receiving your magazine, there may be a very
We’re working on a series of shop tips geared
good reason why! So let us know please—P O
more for the beginning leather worker and want
Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, e-mail: shoptalk@
to know anything you’d like to know more about.
proleptic.net, (828) 505-8474. Thank you!
Doesn’t matter what it is—questions can deal with leather, tools, supplies, how-to, and business. Whatever you have a question about just let us know and thanks!
STRANGE SADDLE? STRANGE HARNESS? We’re looking for pictures of strange saddles and harness. So please send us what you’ve got and
Please contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817,
we’ll share it with our other readers and thanks!
Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail:
We’re looking for STRANGE and UNUSUAL!
shoptalk@proleptic.net.
Contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Thanks!!!!
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 51
JBS Canada (with its plant not far away at Brooks) have to turn to other feedlots in the province for their life cattle supplies.
slower pace. In early October, beef cow slaughter was up 11% and in the past few weeks it was up 20% Good noted. The dairy cow herd is stable. In North America, Mexican beef cows have picked up lately with increasing feeding and packing capacity. In Canada, the herd has been flat and declined in recent years. Globally, there are fewer beef cattle, down 7%, and more dairy cows which are up 5%. Good said that a 2 to 3% increase in slaughter over the next two years is a conservative estimate. Also, capacity is likely to be an issue in the years to come: it will be a bigger seasonal problem from May to September every year‌.
Current Course Dates
March 27-31, 2017: Intro to Making Bridle/Saddle Course Bridle Level Courses March 31 to April 2, 2017: Intro to SMS Course April 3-7, 2017: Bench & Onsite Course Saddle Level Courses
8 NOVEMBER 2016
SHOP TALK!
Chap, Saddle & Tooling Leather! The best grades from the best tanneries! Hermann Oak# 1, or A & B grades only! Skirting, Harness, Strap, tooling, etc. Large clean sides of chap leather! Same types and colors always in stock! Work, Rodeo and Show!
Outstanding service! Real leather sample cards available!
Goliger Leather Company 800 423-2329 Fax 805 650-1742 email: service@goligerleather.com Visit our website: goligerleather.com
52 APRIL 2017
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LEATHER OR HARNESS SHOP INTERIOR
This vintage Cabinet Card is believed to be the shop of leather workers. Image courtesy of Toolemera Press.
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 53
DieCo
Precision Clicker Dies at an Affordable Price
“Tanner’s Oil,” the long-time favorite among horse owners and saddle makers is back! This famous light all-purpose oil softens new leather and beautifies and restores aged leather by replacing lost oils. It guards against moisture, mold and mildew. Will not harm stitching nor darken most leather. An AGS exclusive.
ASK FOR A QUOTE
• Ejection Rubber
• Quick Turn-Around Time • ¾ or 1¼ Material • Strong Bracing
• Quality Punches
Hillside Harness Hardware
4205 Township Road 629 • Millersburg, OH 44654
54 APRIL 2017
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16 Oz Spray #T110S
32 Oz. #T120C
Gallon #T130C
AGS Footwear Group 11234 Air Park Road, Ashland, VA 23005 Phone: 800 446 3820 Fax: 800 822 0180 Email: sales@agsfootweargroup.com Website: www.agsfootweargroup.com
BU Y, SE LL OR TRA D E
CLASSIFIEDS
Classified ad rates are $26.50 for the first 20 words and $.65 cents for each additional word. Words (or groups of letters) fewer than three characters are not counted when calculating the cost of the ad. Street addresses are counted as one word. City, state, country, and zip or postal code are combined and counted as one word. Enclose payment when submitting ads. Ads received without pay-
ment will be held until payment is made. Ads must be received no later than the fifth of the month prior to the month you wish the ad to run (e.g. ads for the February issue must be in our office by January 5). Typed or neatly printed ads are preferred. We are not responsible for mistakes due to handwriting. Faxed ads must be typed and are accepted with MasterCard,VISA or Discover only.
WANTED
FOR SALE
LOOKING FOR WHOLESALE OUTLET to sell whips—36”-78”. Also poppers. Please contact: Eli A. Miller with Buckeye Whip at (330) 6746779 or send mail to 2053 Township Road 112, Millersburg, OH 44654. (8/17)
NYLON HALTERS all sizes mini to draft. Also-nylon webbing by the roll 5/8” to 2” in lots of different weights. Pebble weave edged nylon. Also—mini and draft nylon harness. Free wholesale catalog. Contact: Stauffer’s Harness Shop, 5940 Dry Bone Rd., Hillsboro, OH 45133, (740) 634-2659.
WANTED: NEW SUBSCRIBERS from Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. Now is the time to renew! Give us a call at (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net or visit www.proleptic.net. WANTED EXPERIENCED LEATHER WORKER for manufacturing, custom production, and saddle repair. Pay based on experience and training required. Located in beautiful Central Texas. Please e-mail resume to: ludwigandmarglin@gmail.com. (R&B)
DS C LASS I F I E EST B U Y ! B R U O E R A
buyers... potential f o ’s 0 0 0 1, Reach 0 !! le as $26.5 for as litt
WALLETS AND BI-FOLDS FOR SALE: black and brown. Excellent quality. $4.75 ea. $57/ doz. Can mix. Contact: Don Livingston, 3092 Ravenwood Dr., Greensburg, PA 15601, (724) 219-3400. (2/17) WHOLESALE HARNESS SUPPLIES: Brahma web, nylon webbing, BioSheet, PVC belting, Healzall, and much more! Please check out our new Countryside Carefree Collars in three styles, Feather Flex, Super Flex, and Super Curved. We also stock a full line of harness hdw., and harness parts. Ask for free supply catalog. Contact: Countryside Manufacturing, 504 S. Humbert St., Milton, IA 52570 or call (641) 656-4246 between 8 and 9 am. (R&B) WHOLESALE 7 FT. LEAD ROPES 5/8” polypropylene (Derby) with NP bull snap and SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 55
CLASSIFIEDS
plait or BP bolt snap and plait. Prices: 1-11 @
$3.85 ea. 12-49 @ $3.75 ea. 50-99 @ 3.50 ea. 100+ $3.35 ea. We accept VISA and MasterCard. Wagler’s Wholesale (812) 6368200. (8/12)
www.hitchingpostsupply.com. Call or e-mail Hitching Post Supply for new wholesale and retail catalogs at vickie@ hitchingpostsupply.com, (800) 689-9971 or (360) 668-2349 (outside USA). (3/17)
SADDLE BUSINESS: Machinery and inventory for sale. Hydraulic press, USMC splitter. For full list of all inventory, please call (256) 597-2001. Wish to sell entire inventory together. (3/17)
COMPLETE LEATHER GOODS FACTORY EQUIPMENT for sale. As total unit. Manufacturing achinery/supplies for anything expect footwear. Call Sam at (352) 216-2098. (3/17)
HITCHING POST SUPPLY has horsehair and mohair cinch cord available in natural and dyed colors. For use in pottery, braiding, hitching, and more. Instructional books and DVDs at
KREBS SKIVER BLADES new. $200 plus SH. Made in US. Double tempered. Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, shoptalk@proleptic. net
56 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
CLASSIFIEDS
INSTALL AND REMOVE CHICAGO SCREWS quickly and easily in the shop or on the trail. $16.95 + $4 S&H. Call for wholesale pricing. Contact: JP’s Bridle & Equine Tool, 26266 E. County Road 700 N., Easton, IL 62633. (309) 562-7266. E-mail: jp-equinetacktool@casscomm.com, www. jptacktool.com. FOR ALL YOUR LEATHER NEEDS. Call Moser Leather (800) 874-1167 or (513) 8890500. You can visit our website at www. moserleatherco.com. Polyboard clicker blocks for your clicker or workbench in assorted sizes. United Carr Automatic Line 24 snap setting machines for sale. Please inquire. (R&B) FOR SALE: THE PRO-CONCHO TURNER: The only one in the U.S. Makes removal of decorative conchos a snap! Used with electric drill. Take the fuss and bother out of a difficult job with the Pro-Concho Turner! Saves time, makes money! Rubber gripper protects the concho and makes removal or installation easy. Only $29.00 plus $3.95 S&H, 6-inch steel shank, and rubber gripper. Ready to use! Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@ proleptic.net. FOR SALE: PRICING GUIDE: “How to Establish Prices for the Saddle Maker and Leather Worker.” Only $39.95 plus $4.50 S&H. Contact: (828) 505-8474. (12/17) FOR SALE: NEW AND USED ADLER, BROTHER, CONSEW, JUKI, PFAFF, SINGER machines for sewing bio-plastic, canvas,
leather and nylon. Available in single or double needles, standard, long arm, flatbed, postbed, cylinder arm. Contact: Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine, 3631 Marine Rd., Toledo, OH 43609, (866) 362-7397 or (419) 380-8540. (12/17)
WWW.THELEATHERGUY.ORG for all your leather, tool, and supply needs. Friendly, helpful staff at (507) 932-3795. (R&B) BOOTS & SHOES
FOR SALE: WELL ESTABLISHED (60+ years) Central Oregon Shoe Repair and Retail store featuring wide variety of shoe and leather care products, Z-coil shoes, Red Wing boots, Minnetonka Moccasins, and Birkenstocks. Turnkey operation, great location, and only shoe repair in town. SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 57
CLASSIFIEDS Repairman planning to retire. Potential for purchase of building. Call (541) 548-2506 (Mon.-Friday). (4/17)
BUSINESS FOR SALE: Davis Custom Boot. All equipment included. Asking $8,950 or best offer. Located at 1209 E. 11th St., Quanah, TX 79252. Contact for more information: (940) 839-6537. (5/17) SHOE SHOP FOR SALE. Machinery was very well kept. Looks close to new. Landis K (including new needles), Landis 88, Landis 25 leather cutter, Nosecone 12 Autosoler, heel wheel Autosoler, Jack Master 4-in-1, finished Autosoler (extra cutters, etc. included), metal and wood lasts, shoe jack, metal and wood
shoe trees, shoe press, Wolverine foot measurer. All machines have electric motors. Also 100’s of new shoe heels and soles, different types of hand riveters, lots more small items that go with shoes. All for $3,200. If interested, contact: Crist Shetler, 19396 Six Mile Rd., Stanwood, MI 49346. (3/17)
Are You a Large Manufacturer?
ENGLISH SADDLE REPAIR
Need To Outsource?
Got a Small Production Run To Do?
Got Parts You Need Made?
• Disassembling the Saddle • Replacing Billets • Fixing a Broken Tree • Sewing on Panels • And More Repairs You Can Do
Need Prototypes?
Private Labeling?
$21.50 +S/H
BRIDLEWORK
A Step-By-Step Guide
/
How to make almost everything for English riding as well as driving bridles. Complete with Size Charts for Quick Reference. 270pp. $36.00 $18.00 +s/h
Proleptic, Inc. • P.O. Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 (828) 505-8474 • Email: shoptalk@proleptic.net
www.proleptic.net
58 APRIL 2017
The “Word of the Day” is: cabal
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THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1977
Coated Webbing for Harness, Tack, Pets and Livestock
Contact us to learn more 800-487-2358 or visit us online at biothane.us
ADVERTISERS INDEX A. Lyons .......................................................20
Gfeller Case ...............................................43
Pecard Leather Care ..................................7
AGS ...............................................................54
Goliger..........................................................52
Perfectex Plus ..........................................52
American Leather Direct .......................56
Guard Industries..........................................9
Precision Saddle Tree .............................24
Barta Hide ...................................................40
Hadlock & Fox............................................11
Proleptic ............................................. 25, 32,
Batz...............................................................25
Hansen Western Gear ............................54
... 34, 37, 46, 47, 50, 53, 58, back cover
Beiler's Mfg & Supply..............................21
Hastilow (NASS) .......................................52
Renia.............................................................22
Biothane ......................................................59
Herman Oak Leather ....................................
RJF Leather ................................................51
Booth & Co .................................................52
......................................... Inside Front Cover
Bowden Saddle Tree ...................................8
Hide House .................................................49
Smoke & Fire..............................................40
Brayer ...........................................................40
Hillside Harness Hardware. ...back cover
Brodhead Collar ...........................................9
IHS .................................................................51
Buckeye Engraving ..................................10
International Sheepskin ........................14
Buckle Barn ................................................41
J. M. Saddler...............................................16
Buggy Builder's Bulletin .........................42
Kalico Leather Life ......................................5
Campbell-Randall ........................................6
Kimmel Boot...............................................31
Center Square ...........................................52
Landis Sales & Svc ..................................52
Chino Tack ..................................................43
Leather Crafters.......................................21
Chuck Smith Tools ...................................19
Leather Machine Co. ..inside back cover
Chupp Blacksmith ....................................18
Mark Staton ...............................................48
C.S. Osborne ..............................................26
Maverick .....................................................13
Sweat Pad...................................................42
Danny Marlin Knives ................................54
Mid-River Sales .........................................12
Tech Sew .....................................................28
Die Co ...........................................................54
Miller's Wholesale Harness ..................51
Tennessee Tanning ..................................40
Double K ......................................................54
Mules & More ............................................10
Texas Custom Die ....................................17
El Paso Blanket .........................................20
N & A Harness ...........................................15
Toledo Sewing ..............................................1
Fairview Country Sales ..........................18
Nutra-Glo ....................................................32
Weaver Leather ...........................................3
Fiebing .........................................................36
Ohio Plastics..............................................52
Western Mule Magazine ........................12
Fine Tool Journal .......................................13
Ohio Travel Bag ..........................................12
Y-Knot ..........................................................21
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Shop Talk! published by Proleptic, Inc. P.O. Box 17817 Asheville, NC 28816 (828) 505-8474 shoptalk@proleptic.net www.proleptic.net 60 APRIL 2017
SHOP TALK!
Full Page $502.00 Half Page $280.00 Quarter Page $152.00 Eighth Page $81.00 (Color and guaranteed placement additional)
Setup Charge
$60 per hour with a $18 minimum. Line art may be inserted at no additional charge. $10 per photo.
Shelton-Reynolds ....................................49 Shetler's Collar .........................................13 Sho-Tan........................................................22 Small Farmer's Journal ..............................7 Sorrell Notion & Findings .......................21 SouthStar Supply.....................................13 Springfield Leather..................................38 Steel Stamps ............................................22 Sugar Valley Collar ...................................51 Sun Bias ......................................................14
$399 for one page— Maximum trim size: 8-1/4” X 10-3/4” $45 each additional page. Event flyers must be inserted 60 days in advance. All inserts must be shipped directly to printer.
Reduce - Reuse - Recycle Recycling old magazines, catalogs, and newspapers is one of the easiest ways to help the environment. To increase the supply of recoverable wood fiber and to reduce the demand on regional landfills, Shop Talk! urges its readers to support recycling efforts in their communities. Shop Talk! is printed with only vegetable-based inks.
SHOP TALK! APRIL 2017 61
APRIL 2017 P.O. BOX 17817, ASHEVILLE, NC 28816
Check your renewal date today!
828.505.8474 | fax 828.505.8476 | proleptic.net
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