DIGITAL COMPILATION: REFLECTIVE JOURNAL
I am compiling my hand written notes and digital copies work to put together everything which is helping me taking my way in the design process. I hope to make everything much rather clear in this. I am going to have different PDF files with detailed and full coverage of the photo shoots, design development and the process of making the fabric because everything in one single file will be very big in size and will be hard to upload.
Starting will few of the term one pages:
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The initial links that were referred to for the research: transformation textiles http://mistrafuturefashion.com/output/teds-ten/ http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/ https://kadk.dk/en/case/transformative-textiles https://www.researchgate.net/publication/239586852_Transformative_Textiles http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/id/eprint/29190/ http://lunagals.com/projects/transformation-textiles/ https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/A-New-TextilesEconomy_Full-Report_Updated_1-12-17.pdf http://www.thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk/artist/margaret-crowther/ https://www.thecuttingclass.com/recycled-yarns-3d-weaving-moa-hallgren/
Weave inspirations
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Shape/pattern Inspiration:
To have more physical idea about the shapes, some experiment with the paper cuts have been done
• I went on develop a lot of flat 2D designs along with patterns on illustrator. Few examples are below:
• After knowing more about the Pointcarre a lot of exploration has been done on Pointcarre with around 60-70 jacquard fabric designs.
• The explorations in jacquard helped me to know the advantages, scope of the design development on it and the limitations which comes with it. • In term 1, the focus was more on knowledge of the development of the weaves along with the shapes and pattern of the design. • I have made seamless sample 1st on handloom to have more of an hands on experimentation and I was really helped to plan my process for the jacquard development.
TERM 2:
Starting with few of the notes and pages from my design Ideation:
These notes were made taking reference of 2 new research papers which I came across regarding seamless garment weaving and composite garment through weaving: Links are given below: •
https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/RJTA-17-03-2013-B002/full/html
3D Seamless Woven Fashion Based on New Concept and Technology Xue Qin Wang1 , Frankie M.C. Ng , Jinlian Hu Research Journal of Textile and Apparel • https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/RJTA-11-02-2007B008/full/html Integrated Design of Seamless Fashion in Woven Textile with Multilayer NG, Frankie M.C., HU Jinlian , SZETO Yu-cheung , WANG Xueqin Research Journal of Textile and Apparel I went on to project my design ideas on a drape using projection screen. It was a great exercise to understand the fall of shapes over the draped fabric. It gave a really great insight into the scaling of the pattern according to its fall. We used 2 different textured fabric so it was again a great way to see the effect of textured with the shapes;
Along with Naomi and NIgel, the exercise was very interesting, to get know the different possibilities and to get exposure to a whole new technique was really helpful. I went on to create few jacquard samples on TC2 loom to get more clarity and direction in terms of fabric feel, texture and to understand the working of TC2 jacquard and to get familiar with the working of it.
It gave more idea about the scaling of the pattern because it was easy to understand with the physical sample. It helped me a lot to know how the weaves are looking along with the pattern, how much does one sample take time to make and to know the technical aspects related with each design. I made single layered jacquards and one double layered
It helped me understand how different weaves in 2 different layers of the fabric creates the difference in the appearance. But one of my aim or motive is to make 2 different patterns in front and back of the fabric. When I discussed with Nigel about the same, he helped me out in knowing about the technique that can be used in PointcarrĂŠ to develop 2 different patterns on front and back surface of the fabric.
He explained me in a very efficient way of how this can be carried out. I went on to try it with very basic shapes on pointcarre.
And the complex designs
Design 1
Design 2
Jacquard simulations of the same looked like this:
Design 1+2
I made 4-5 designs ready to try out on the jacquard machine but due to Covid !9 outbreak I didn’t get the opportunity to try it on the jacquard and see if the idea of splitting the design and then putting the weaves in it can work out to make 2 different design on the front and the back works or not. In the line of design development, I was repeatedly getting the feedback the designs didn’t look as they were my original creation as I was taking the inspiration from the images of the building and I wanted to take my own pictures and develop my designs but again due to covid 19 I couldn’t do that. But I went on to develop few of paper laser cutting samples as I wanted to play with the shapes and see how light and shadow can help me creating new designs and as I was locked down at home I used mobile phone camera light and took pictures at the corner of my room.
I was happy with the pictures and the results which came out as I was able to draw few of the designs out of it. I started doing my sketching's and initial design ideations.
After Covid outbreak, I started researching more on WGSN to see what is going to be the future of fashion industry, How the design and demand of the people are going to change in the coming time. And I made notes according to my study of the report.
The preference to multipurpose products.
More notes which I created during quarantine:
And the research about what types of fabrics are going to be used, what kind of weaves and textures will be preferred.
Soft textured weaves, thermo regulating, breathable, comfortable, these are the key points as according to the trend and how the scenario is, HOME HAS BECOME THE PLACE OF WORK, REST AND PLAY! I have developed a weave bank with all the weaves taking reference from “weaving textiles that shape themselves” and “Collapse Weave” keeping in mind the creation of texture, breathability moisture absorbency, controlled Shrinkage, etc.
I did 3D simulations of the weaves in the Pointcarre dobby to have a better idea of the 3d structure.
Cord weave combined with half Hopsack
Satin and sateen weave stripes And combination of 2 weave structure as double cloth. This is the combination of crepe with plain weave combined with weft floats
Combination of satin weave And like this I have created numerous weave combinations to produce my seamless woven garment. Moving forward: For the pictures I took of the laser cut paper samples, I went on to develop few jacquard simulations on PointcarrĂŠ with the design impressions I developed.
Design
front fabric
Design
back fabric
fabric simulation
Design
Fabric front and back There is whole new collection of new all-over jacquard simulations I developed on PointcarrĂŠ in a separate a PDF. The 2 research papers I read in support of the making of seamless woven garments were very helpful for me to pave my way for designing my garments in PointcarrĂŠ jacquard.
By this time, I have become confident enough to make flat garment pattern on illustrator and then to put the design into it and divide the areas for making the multiple layers according to the requirement. Here is the demonstration of how I have done the whole process.
Pattern
Pattern + background fabric design pattern along with with ground weave Garment pattern
Garment pattern+ fabric pattern + neckline + hem finish on sleeves and hemline
+ pocket Final design on illustrator which can be taken to the PointcarrĂŠ.
In PointcarrĂŠ the weaves are applied appropriate as per the color assigned.
Jacquard simulation:
Simulation of complete woven garment:
As I got into good hand of making the designs< I went on to develop few more jacquard simulations with the same process. I have complied them in a separate pdf.
Yarn and colour palette Research: Term 1
Term 2: After covid 19 outbreak, my focus was more on the thermoregulating, antimicrobial yarns which are breathable, moisture absorbent and can be extremely comfortable to be worn at home as well as outside.
Weblinks for the yarn research: https://www.circular-systems.com/orbital â&#x20AC;&#x153;Feed the planet, energy for lifeâ&#x20AC;? https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/textifood-when-food-wastebecomes-clothing/2015050816352 https://eluxemagazine.com/fashion/food-waste-becomes-fashion/Perhaps best of all, unlike many synthetics and GMO cotton, the clothing resulting by these new fibres are all safe and healthy to wear, as well as recyclable, renewable and biodegradable. http://orangefiber.it/fabrics/ orange fiber https://www.ananas-anam.com/moving-towards-new-textiles-economy-ellen-macarthur-foundation-2/ ellen macarthur circular economy, take-make-dispose model https://www.ananas-anam.com/ pinatex- pinapple fiber http://www.foodandfibersproject.com/food-waste-turned-into-fashion/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2018/09/fashion-made-from-food-waste-banana-silk-flax-linen/ coconut fabric banana fabric https://www.chipsboard.com/products for accessories and trims http://www.standardfiber.com/materials/special-fibers/ingeo/ corn fiber http://www.scafefabrics.com/en-global/product/mylithe coffee fiber
Final yarn selection
Hemp: https://www.wools.co.uk/weaving-yarns/hemp.html Advantages of hemp: https://learn.eartheasy.com/guides/hemp-clothing/ High twist yarn: https://www.wools.co.uk/high-twist-wool-c490.html Organic cotlin: https://www.handweavers.co.uk/cotlin-82ne-organic.ir Bamboo and tencel :https://www.myfineweavingyarn.co.uk/brassard-tencel-8-2-burnt-orange.html Advantages of bamboo: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3842/benefits-of-bamboo-fabric Benefits of tencel: https://wolk-antwerp.com/pages/tencel
Banana, seacell and bamboo yarn: https://www.etsy.com/shop/perranyarns/, https://www.yarnyarn.co.uk/collections/banana-yarn Peppermint and Rose Rayon: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/701900478/122-peppermint-rose-rayonskeins?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=peppermint+y arn&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1&col=1
Colour forecast:
I have made the color palette after going through the trend forecast:
I have made a palette with earthy tones too as I wanted to have option to try out colorways:
The question which is always raised when I have given a presentation is: what I want a viewer or a customer to take back from my design, the fabric or the garment?
I would like to say I want the viewer to take back the whole concept of seamless woven garment as here, my fabric is the ready garment product and I want it to be taken back. Now I will be more focusing to create effective seamless woven garment with transformable feature, to make the garment multi-purpose I will shortlist the final fabric/weave designs to be used along with the garment patterns. I will try different colorways to come up with the best color combinations. I will start designing the website, the packaging idea and the kit that can be given with the garment with the manual of how the garment can be taken care I focus more on the market research, but I have decided a niche market already. Along the way I know I will come up with new things and ideas and I will implement it looking forward to making some more effective designs.