The Fashioned Body Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory Second edition
Joanne Entwistle
polity
Copyright
Š Joanne Entwistle 2015
The right of Joanne Entwistle to be identified as Author of this Work has been asserted in accordance with the UK COl?yright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. First edition published in 2000 by Polity Press This second edition published in 2015 by Polity Press
Polity Press 65 Bridge Street Cambridge CB2 1UR, UK Polity Press 350 Main Street Malden, MA 02148, USA
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ISBN-13: ISBN-13:
978-0-7456-4937-5 978-0-7456-4938-2
(hardback) (paperback)
2 1 ABR 20 6
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Typeset in 10.5/12pt Plantin by Servis Filmsetting Ltd, Stockport, Cheshire Printed and bound by T.J. International Ltd, Padstow,
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Contents
Acknowledgements Preface to the Second Edition
vi viii
Introduction
1
1 Addressing the Body
6
2
Theorizing Fashion and Dress
40
3
Fashion, Dress and Social Change
78
4
Fashion and Identity
112
5
Fashion and Gender
140
6
Fashion, Adornment and Sexuality
181
7
The Fashion Industry
208
Conclusion
245
References
248
Index
268
'The Fashioned Body ISa landmark text without which we rnlgl-t stili be explor ng the sartonal asonly an expressionof the Zeltgelrt, neve considering fashion's wearers Updated and with substantive new sections on space, u ban geography and the 'aesthetic economy',
th s second edition charts the rise of fashron from the peculiarity
of Western modern ty to ItScentrality Ir conternpo-ary global cultural econom es.' Ruth Holliday University of Leeds 'In this timely and much-awaited new edition. Entwistle weaves together a powerful narrative of how magic and meaning. design and desire are conjoined with market mechanisms and regulatory regimes to produce fashion. By address ng the complex and interwoven amalgam of production. cor-sur-iptlon. creativity and constraint, Entwistle reveals the alchemy that IScontemporary fashion A must-read for anyone interested In the making and shaping of fashl'""''',l h')dles Louise Crewe University of Nottingham The Fashioned Body provides a wide-ranging
and original overview of fashion and dress
from an historical and sociological perspective. Where once fashion was seen as marginal, it has now entered into core economic discourse focused around ideas about 'cultural' and 'creative' work as a major driver of developed economies. With a new preface and new material on the evolving fashion industry, this second edition gives a clear summary of the theories surrounding the role and function of fashion in modern society. Entwistle examines how fashion plays a crucial role in the formation of modern identity through its articulation of the body, gender and sexuality. The book offers a much-needed synthesis between the literature on fashion and dress, and the sociology of the body, offering an updated critique of the issues raised in the first edition. Entwistle shows how an understanding of fashion and dress requires analysing the meanings and practices of the dressed body in culture - since it is the body that fashion speaks to and which is dressed in almost all social situations and encounters. She argues that, while fashion refers to a specific system of dress originating in the west, all cultures 'dress' the body in the same way, making it a crucial feature of social order. Drawing on the work of a number of social theorists, the book offers insights into the connections that need to be made between the body, fashion and dress. The Fashioned Body will be an invaluable resource for anyone interested in the social role of fashion and dress in modern culture. Joanne Entwistle is Senior Lecturer in Culture, Media and Creative Industries at King's College London
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